Mr. Morgan you do such a good job with your channel helping those of us who try to educate ourselves on becoming more self reliant around the home. Thank you .
Nicely executed job. You came prepared, with no rush, stated the basic problem and fixed it. When an appliance doesn't trip the breaker immediately it's usually overheating problem and overheating problem usually means loose connection somewhere. Insufficient wire gauges may be the problem as well, but it's rarely a problem at our grade of work, i.e. in home installations. At the beginning I was thinking about some junction box or the socket itself. Loose wire in the breaker would be my next guess. I think that loose connection was a cause of following microwave malfunction.
Yeah, the screw connection at the breaker was not real tight when I went to remove the wire. I believe it was loose from the get go. I was not the first to check this out and was told someone already changed the receptacle but it was still happening, so I decided I would check the panel first. I agree, the more I thought about it…I think the wiring was the main cause and the microwave was a victim. The heat off it wasn’t noticeable till I ran it for the 12 minutes but it was getting crazy hot. Maybe fan malfunctioning inside of it due to damage.
@@MORGANSMaintenance Multiple sudden stops of a fan (when breaker tripped) could have help with overheating. Anyway, keep posting more of this kind of videos.
I’d say that microwave is on its way to the scrap yard. Nice video Morgan as I think if she keeps that old heat box, you’re gonna head out for the same issue with the breaker/wire. Something is definitely going on. 👍👍👍
Yeah. She swapped it out that afternoon. I’m glad I ran it through the extra time. iIt was after the second 6 minutes it was extremely hot, so much so I could feel it standing next to it. Thanks for watching!
Great diagnostic video. Personally I check the connections of the receptacle first and then go to the panel. After replacing the breaker and wire I would torque that breaker and all others with my Wiha insulated torque screw drive using #2 square bit To avoid a similar issue on other circuits. Lastly I would test the microwave in another circuit to see if it does the same thing and then confirm that there was 2 problems as you demonstrated. Keep these videos coming.
Thanks for the advice. I would check the receptacle first usually too, but was told the last person came and replaced the outlet but it was still tripping the breaker. Someone else working on something is usually cause to start there 😂, but I decided to go to the other end. Great idea on checking the rest of the panel. I’ve been looking at some Torque Screwdrivers, Do you like the Wiha? That’s a top contender at the moment.
@@MORGANSMaintenance the Wiha is fully insulated for 1000v and was the best price and so convenient to use. With everything electrical moving to torque specs it will become an essential electrical tool
@@stanrosenblum4669 Sorry to bug you but was wondering if you might have an answer for a question for me about the Wiha? Would you know if the blades for the torque screwdriver are special for it, or can you use the insulated blades that come with their standard insulated screwdriver kits as well. Wasn’t sure if they were the same. Just curious for replacement purposes or the additional blades that might not come in the set with the torque screwdriver. You may not have the other type screwdriver/blades but thought I’d ask.
@@MORGANSMaintenance The bits are different size the standard 1/4” bits. You can buy and adapter bit that accepts all standard 1/4” bits or another that accepts 1/4” sockets. Unfortunately the bits included are unique to Wiha only. Benjamin S has a you tube channel and modified the Wiha to accept 1/4” bits poorly but admitted the proper bit is safer.
I never run a microwave with nothing in it, I have blown out 3 of them in 22yrs and I should’ve learned the first time, I usually just ask the customer for water to heat up, I’ve had to pay the price running it with nothing in it. That line splitter can sometimes give false readings I’ve found over the years so I just go directly to the panel and see what’s going on there, it’s possible the breaker malfunctioned as Arc Faults just tend to suck in my opinion or even if the torque on that screw wasn’t tight enough it would have caused that wire to melt with the arcing that’s why the NEC 2020 requires to tighten down your equipment with the torque ratings, I think the breaker and it’s line neutral caused the microwave to start to go bad, I didn’t see a voltage test so I can only assume it was 120 volts but a lot of times with a bad breaker like that you’ll get bad voltage drop and it will malfunction the equipment. Lots of scenarios but good to cover your end and recommend a new microwave. Good job brother.
Thanks for the great feedback. Never new that about the empty microwave. Voltage was good, I checked it all when I was seeing what all was on each circuit and didn’t hit the record button 🤦♂️Yeah not a big fan of the Arc Fault breakers myself. A bad breaker is honestly what I expected it to be because I knew that building was loaded with them.
Great video! Pretty sure the loose connection at the breaker was the culprit. I’m more pro of having the outlet being a gfci than having it in the breaker box for that reason. Awesome video as always and keep the content coming!
Thanks! Yeah I agree with you the more I thought about it after filming. I think that Microwave had something wrong with it too, possibly caused by the electrical issue over time. I don’t think the fan for the microwave was working right but it had a safety feature that shut it off without flipping the breaker once I fixed the wiring. It was warm while I originally checked it but after I ran it through 12 minutes straight it was pretty toasty and shutting itself off. Definitely not normal.
My main complaint is that go-bag is enormous! How do you carry that thing? I’m definitely more of a plumbing heavy maintenance tech so it’s great to see these in the field troubleshooting videos on electrical work. It’s the trade I’m trying to bulk up on so this was great content.
It’s not that big, only weighs around 13 pounds. It isn’t much bigger than the TP4B (weighed close to 11 but I also had a few less things in it), just a little bigger in both directions. Maybe it looked bigger the way I was zoomed in. I like it so far, but I’m not sure I would say it is way better than the TP4B. Yeah electrical seems to be my “heavy”. Everything comes in spurts but it seems to be what most of the problems I go to revolve around. Plumbing is my least favorite. Not for the work part but I obsess for weeks after I work on it wondering if it’s leaking 😂 I hate water damage.
I have the same problem but my house runs on a 4000 watt pure sine wave inverter . Some thing about the microwave oven that is brand new , that when it starts it trips the inverter . and the entire house goes down . I have cooked entire meals using my air fry toaster oven ( 1800 watts ) , hot plate ( 1000 watts ) , AC on low ( 580 watts ) , fridge ( 120 watts ) , freezer ( 120 watts ) , and the rest of the house that totaled 3375 watts all at the same time with no issues . It is just something about the start on the microwave that causes the inverter to trip and the rated watts for the microwave is only 1350 watts . So... the cure to this was to simply turn the power down on the microwave to 6 instead on 10 and it runs just fine . My oven is a Master Chef . I have even plugged the microwave strait into the inverter with nothing else plugged in and same thing . Hope this helps if you have the same problem .
I never realized how a bad microwave can cause issues. I had mine for almost two years and last night I was cooking a small dinner for six minutes which I do often after I came out of my bedroom I saw a flash of white light the power on the kitchen outlets went off . I immediately unplugged the microwave. The popping from inside the wall continued for a bit then stopped. I checked my panel and the kitchen plug zone tripped. I’m waiting for the electrician to come today to reset the panel because I don’t want to touch anything. The microwave was very hot so I’m pretty sure it was the culprit because I wasn’t running anything else no overload. I suspect it was a short circuit. I will find out for sure later. Just bummed out because it was an expensive appliance but I’m not willing to take chances again. Valuable lesson learned because I live alone and it was a frightening experience. The super told me it was ok to wait for the electrician. I was scared of fire in the wall. Be very careful with microwaves. I went into my bedroom for less than a minute. Don’t think I want a microwave anymore because this is not the first problem I’ve had. Be careful folks✌🏻
A lot of times when breakers trip it is typically what is connected to the wiring, more than the wiring itself. It either has something wrong internally, or it gets the wire so hot that it is what damages the wire. Not all the time… but usually. Glad you are ok, smart move to unplug it and call someone 👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance He came today and reset the panel and used the microwave for forty seconds said it was fine. After he left I touched the sides and under the microwave and it was hot so I believe it overheated. The dinners I run for six and a half minutes so if it got that hot after just forty seconds I am not willing to chance it again. It’s not worth the microwave actually catching fire and destroying my home no way. I learned a valuable lesson from it never run any appliance unattended. Thanks for your input✌🏻
Mr. Morgan you do such a good job with your channel helping those of us who try to educate ourselves on becoming more self reliant around the home. Thank you .
Thank you for the kind words and for watching. I am hopeful it helps somebody!
Nicely executed job. You came prepared, with no rush, stated the basic problem and fixed it.
When an appliance doesn't trip the breaker immediately it's usually overheating problem and overheating problem usually means loose connection somewhere. Insufficient wire gauges may be the problem as well, but it's rarely a problem at our grade of work, i.e. in home installations.
At the beginning I was thinking about some junction box or the socket itself. Loose wire in the breaker would be my next guess.
I think that loose connection was a cause of following microwave malfunction.
Yeah, the screw connection at the breaker was not real tight when I went to remove the wire. I believe it was loose from the get go.
I was not the first to check this out and was told someone already changed the receptacle but it was still happening, so I decided I would check the panel first.
I agree, the more I thought about it…I think the wiring was the main cause and the microwave was a victim. The heat off it wasn’t noticeable till I ran it for the 12 minutes but it was getting crazy hot. Maybe fan malfunctioning inside of it due to damage.
@@MORGANSMaintenance Multiple sudden stops of a fan (when breaker tripped) could have help with overheating.
Anyway, keep posting more of this kind of videos.
I’d say that microwave is on its way to the scrap yard. Nice video Morgan as I think if she keeps that old heat box, you’re gonna head out for the same issue with the breaker/wire. Something is definitely going on. 👍👍👍
Yeah. She swapped it out that afternoon. I’m glad I ran it through the extra time. iIt was after the second 6 minutes it was extremely hot, so much so I could feel it standing next to it.
Thanks for watching!
Great diagnostic video. Personally I check the connections of the receptacle first and then go to the panel. After replacing the breaker and wire I would torque that breaker and all others with my Wiha insulated torque screw drive using #2 square bit To avoid a similar issue on other circuits. Lastly I would test the microwave in another circuit to see if it does the same thing and then confirm that there was 2 problems as you demonstrated. Keep these videos coming.
Thanks for the advice. I would check the receptacle first usually too, but was told the last person came and replaced the outlet but it was still tripping the breaker.
Someone else working on something is usually cause to start there 😂, but I decided to go to the other end.
Great idea on checking the rest of the panel. I’ve been looking at some Torque Screwdrivers, Do you like the Wiha? That’s a top contender at the moment.
@@MORGANSMaintenance the Wiha is fully insulated for 1000v and was the best price and so convenient to use. With everything electrical moving to torque specs it will become an essential electrical tool
@@stanrosenblum4669 thanks, I agree. I am needing to get me one for that very reason.
Thanks again for your feedback!
@@stanrosenblum4669 Sorry to bug you but was wondering if you might have an answer for a question for me about the Wiha?
Would you know if the blades for the torque screwdriver are special for it, or can you use the insulated blades that come with their standard insulated screwdriver kits as well. Wasn’t sure if they were the same. Just curious for replacement purposes or the additional blades that might not come in the set with the torque screwdriver.
You may not have the other type screwdriver/blades but thought I’d ask.
@@MORGANSMaintenance
The bits are different size the standard 1/4” bits. You can buy and adapter bit that accepts all standard 1/4” bits or another that accepts 1/4” sockets. Unfortunately the bits included are unique to Wiha only. Benjamin S has a you tube channel and modified the Wiha to accept 1/4” bits poorly but admitted the proper bit is safer.
I never run a microwave with nothing in it, I have blown out 3 of them in 22yrs and I should’ve learned the first time, I usually just ask the customer for water to heat up, I’ve had to pay the price running it with nothing in it. That line splitter can sometimes give false readings I’ve found over the years so I just go directly to the panel and see what’s going on there, it’s possible the breaker malfunctioned as Arc Faults just tend to suck in my opinion or even if the torque on that screw wasn’t tight enough it would have caused that wire to melt with the arcing that’s why the NEC 2020 requires to tighten down your equipment with the torque ratings, I think the breaker and it’s line neutral caused the microwave to start to go bad, I didn’t see a voltage test so I can only assume it was 120 volts but a lot of times with a bad breaker like that you’ll get bad voltage drop and it will malfunction the equipment. Lots of scenarios but good to cover your end and recommend a new microwave. Good job brother.
Thanks for the great feedback. Never new that about the empty microwave.
Voltage was good, I checked it all when I was seeing what all was on each circuit and didn’t hit the record button 🤦♂️Yeah not a big fan of the Arc Fault breakers myself. A bad breaker is honestly what I expected it to be because I knew that building was loaded with them.
Do you have a good Torque Screwdriver you use?
Great video! Pretty sure the loose connection at the breaker was the culprit. I’m more pro of having the outlet being a gfci than having it in the breaker box for that reason. Awesome video as always and keep the content coming!
Thanks!
Yeah I agree with you the more I thought about it after filming. I think that Microwave had something wrong with it too, possibly caused by the electrical issue over time.
I don’t think the fan for the microwave was working right but it had a safety feature that shut it off without flipping the breaker once I fixed the wiring.
It was warm while I originally checked it but after I ran it through 12 minutes straight it was pretty toasty and shutting itself off. Definitely not normal.
My main complaint is that go-bag is enormous! How do you carry that thing?
I’m definitely more of a plumbing heavy maintenance tech so it’s great to see these in the field troubleshooting videos on electrical work. It’s the trade I’m trying to bulk up on so this was great content.
It’s not that big, only weighs around 13 pounds. It isn’t much bigger than the TP4B (weighed close to 11 but I also had a few less things in it), just a little bigger in both directions. Maybe it looked bigger the way I was zoomed in. I like it so far, but I’m not sure I would say it is way better than the TP4B.
Yeah electrical seems to be my “heavy”. Everything comes in spurts but it seems to be what most of the problems I go to revolve around.
Plumbing is my least favorite. Not for the work part but I obsess for weeks after I work on it wondering if it’s leaking 😂 I hate water damage.
I have the same problem but my house runs on a 4000 watt pure sine wave inverter . Some thing about the microwave oven that is brand new , that when it starts it trips the inverter . and the entire house goes down . I have cooked entire meals using my air fry toaster oven ( 1800 watts ) , hot plate ( 1000 watts ) , AC on low ( 580 watts ) , fridge ( 120 watts ) , freezer ( 120 watts ) , and the rest of the house that totaled 3375 watts all at the same time with no issues . It is just something about the start on the microwave that causes the inverter to trip and the rated watts for the microwave is only 1350 watts . So... the cure to this was to simply turn the power down on the microwave to 6 instead on 10 and it runs just fine . My oven is a Master Chef . I have even plugged the microwave strait into the inverter with nothing else plugged in and same thing . Hope this helps if you have the same problem .
Appreciate the info 👍👍
I never realized how a bad microwave can cause issues. I had mine for almost two years and last night I was cooking a small dinner for six minutes which I do often after I came out of my bedroom I saw a flash of white light the power on the kitchen outlets went off . I immediately unplugged the microwave. The popping from inside the wall continued for a bit then stopped. I checked my panel and the kitchen plug zone tripped. I’m waiting for the electrician to come today to reset the panel because I don’t want to touch anything. The microwave was very hot so I’m pretty sure it was the culprit because I wasn’t running anything else no overload. I suspect it was a short circuit. I will find out for sure later. Just bummed out because it was an expensive appliance but I’m not willing to take chances again. Valuable lesson learned because I live alone and it was a frightening experience. The super told me it was ok to wait for the electrician. I was scared of fire in the wall. Be very careful with microwaves. I went into my bedroom for less than a minute. Don’t think I want a microwave anymore because this is not the first problem I’ve had. Be careful folks✌🏻
A lot of times when breakers trip it is typically what is connected to the wiring, more than the wiring itself. It either has something wrong internally, or it gets the wire so hot that it is what damages the wire.
Not all the time… but usually.
Glad you are ok, smart move to unplug it and call someone 👍
@@MORGANSMaintenance He came today and reset the panel and used the microwave for forty seconds said it was fine. After he left I touched the sides and under the microwave and it was hot so I believe it overheated. The dinners I run for six and a half minutes so if it got that hot after just forty seconds I am not willing to chance it again. It’s not worth the microwave actually catching fire and destroying my home no way. I learned a valuable lesson from it never run any appliance unattended. Thanks for your input✌🏻
Are you located in Illinois?
No I’m not
I call that white powder stuff from arcing angry pixie dust
😂😂😂… my mind was just drawing a blank. I still don’t really know what the technical term for it is… angry pixie dust will most likely be my go to now.