Hey Adam, one thing to look out for if your getting chatter on your threads is the stick out of that threading tool. I was running a job on our mazak lathe last year. 17-4 stainless steel and we had some chatter on the threads. Sunk the tool in as much as possible and it was night and day difference. That pretty much goes with any tool but i just remember that one particular job and honestly in my mind the tool wasn't even sticking out too far but definitely was enough to cause chatter.
Adam the weak link in your setup is the excessive tool length from the turret. Even if you have to cut the shanks you will gain maximum rigidity. Also check the lead in angle of the threader. Make it so 95% of the material removed is on one side of the vee (29.5 ° lead in angle). Hope this helps. You're doin great!
Tool stickout is usually not the real culprit in this kind of problem. Sure you can get around it by cutting the shank and reducing the stickout, but the core problem remains. That's correcting a symptom rather than the source of the problem. I think first the tool might be overtightened, and the insert angle maybe too shallow for this thread, should be 1 to 2 degrees and not 0, which is shown as one side of the thread is rubbed instead of cut. Also, the number of thread pass is too low, the rpm is too low, and the last pass has a depth of cut too shallow, like a spring pass. It works on a manual machine but on CNC you need at least .0005 of material for the final pass otherwise it will chatter. CNC turning is a whole different world and things that worked for decades suddenly don't anymore.
As can plainly be seen, a 4x stick out on a shank will obviously create rigidity issues especially since it is completely unnecessary. I agree that threading parameters and speeds could be tweaked in many ways. I was just giving one example based on how it sounded to me. As far as your overtightening theory, as long as the fasters are intact and the threads aren't marred, I think he's good. And given Adam's level of experience I think he knows not to go overboard when torquing fasteners.
When I first started watching your channel I never thought I would see the day where you would be using things like Fusion360 and having CNC machines. I have really enjoyed your new journey into CNC machining :-)
I do that kind of parts daily and make my own program. I can do that without scraping any part. But I have been doing it for thirty years we have OKUMA machines. You stick with it you will get better. You have all the machining knowledge. One of my tricks is to back off tools and measure then restart program.
Good to see your progress on the CNC equipment. Your confidence is growing with your knowledge. Also encouraging to see your developing skills in Fusion 360.
Obviously this is you learning to CAD/CAM and CNC where any project is good, but this shows why one off parts are almost always quicker on a manual machine with a skilled machinist. If you're making multiple parts CNC is king. Happy new year!
I’d love to take you up on that. I’m the one that has been helping Adam with these parts. I would guess that I could draw this and program the lathe side in less than 10 minutes. As you said, he is learning. The next project he does will go quicker. And the one after that will be quicker still. As he said in the video, we could have parted this off in the lathe too. Then move it to the mill and you are looking at about 8 minutes total run time per part for both lathe and mill.
If you watch Jason's videos I think you will find that the choice of material being cast iron was to ensure that that part (easily replaceable) fails before the body or the swivel base. Using steel might mean that the failure point moves to something more catastrophic
I love how you can hear the machine adjust RPM to maintain an ideal linear speed for the cutting tool at different radii throughout the operation. For all its complexity and strangeness when coming from manual machining, computers can do some amazing stuff.
Nice to see how well you are doing with the fusion 360 and programming your Milltronics machines! Its definitely an adjustment from going from pretty much all manual work to CNC work. Keep up the good work man!
Loving it. Making an individual part on the CNC is time consuming, and uses a lot of practice material, however if you were to then go into production on the part, and knock out hundreds of the things, the time and effort would be worth it. I used to knock out 'shear pins' for one of our plant during the quiet periods - and the nature of the plant meant they would pop them on a regular basis. If CNC existed back then (well it didn't in our shop), I could have produced 100s of shear pins in the time it took me to make 10s manually - and that was a really simple part.
We use CNC for one off parts pretty often but it really depends on the complexity. If we have tapers with a tight tolerance requirement we'll typically run it CNC by default due to the machines inherent accuracy and it means no setup changes to the lathe are required. But definately depends on the part specifically.
its nice seeing you being open with learning a new skill. we all have our learning curves and its nice of you to share. most here know you are a accomplished machinist and understand where you're coming from. 👌🙋♂️
It is fantastic to see you continue up the learning curves of driving CAD/CAM and CNC. I love the manual Machining processes you depict so well, the touch of modernized Machining is great though, so many cnc channels on TH-cam make it look relatively easy, the basics of cnc work are not easy to master.
Fun for this former design/development engineer to see CNC lathe work up close. I was only allowed to look through doors of the machines making my designs. The sound of the spindle speed automatically keeping surface speed constant, and realizing that the spindle is going the other direction and the cutting tools are "upside down" was great. I did not think that I would watch the entire video, as I have no interest in adding CNC to my basic shop, but I enjoyed the entire video.
our cnc designer dont even know how to start up our lathes, and it shows in some of the programing, ive had to get him out on the floor and show the problem then he goes and fixes it, Im an operator and ive never touched a design system, how crazy is that.
Another great video, thanks again for your time and efforts after another year of sharing your life with us. Always got people that think they know it all or don’t like how and why you’re doing things, but you have been the same since the beginning and we all appreciate it. Take care and Happy New Year!!
Good stuff. I am learning Fusion 360 lathe programming as well right now so thanks for showing some of the details that you went through learning it. It was helpful.
I love to see you showing us your way of learning. I can deal with fusion360 quite easily, but don't know if it'd work on a cnc. But I've been dealing with computers since the '85. I still think the manual turning is way more "cool". I find computers boring. But a human that can make parts with
Like you, I am also still learning how to operate my small woodworking CNC. (I am retired and now a home hobbyist.) My butt still takes a bite out of my seat every time I run a new program I have written. A crash would be disastrous. I always make an "air cut" before committing to my part. I hope I get more confidence with time. Thanks.
To stop the stock push back in the chuck, get yourself a deflection beam torque wrench. For my 3 jaw chuck, I find 80 foot pounds holds great for heavy roughing operations.
I think it was Haas who made a video where they measure how spindle speed affects chuck gripping force. It was more than I expected. You might be able to reduce the push-back problem by spinning slower.
I never thought I'd see you getting comfortable using Fusion 360 and a CNC machine. However, I like it! I've been learning Fusion 360 for 3D printing. It's a handful but it is so gratifying when you ultimately just pump out a design and then the g-code without struggling.
I recently saw a video on the issue of chuck chatter & chuck holding strength (pushback) made by Robrenz titled "LATHE CHUCK MAGIC TRT#5" It's a very interesting video and perhaps some of the information in it could help with these issues. I have been enjoying the series of this vice build & can't wait to see it fully finished & assembled.
Kevin is a real ninja when it comes to CAM in F360, you couldn't ask for a better instructor....I'm getting a kick out of seeing you making the transition to CAD/CAM.
Another EPIC video to end off the year with, these never fail to teach you something new! keep up the awesome work and Adam, I hope you have an AWESOME 2024!
Turned parts look good, however it sounds a little heavy on screw cutting. I don’t know what options you have available with your lathe and/or cad software but decreasing depth is a great function. I will often take cuts from 0.25 down to 0.01mm, especially on one off parts where cycle time doesn’t really matter.
It seems to be doing constant pressure cuts so depth of cut varies decreasingly. Which is good. I think not enough cuts, too low rpm and the finishing cut is a spring pass causing chatter, should be a real cut of 0.01mm
Glad to see you embracing the world of CNC and fusion 360. You only have eight passes on your threading cycle. I can hear it’s really cutting chips hard. I would change that to 20 passes. You’re not trying to run production here you’re trying to make a good part. Great video enjoy the series. when I thread, I make the diameter of the thread, .005 less than nominal size. this will save you on filing.
Adam, I might suggest that you get a torque wrench to use on the chuck instead of the "T" handle, and tighten all three scrolls to a set torque which you will have to determine with some testing.
We see a lot of personal projects now on this channel, which is great, but what is he working on for his 9-5 (if anything at all)? He used to show stuff like that at motion but not anymore. Miss that kinda content.
Consider rerunning the finish pass over the od of the thread, and then re running the finishing pass of the thread. Should eliminate the need for filing.
He can actually use his grooving tool already in the machine and make a thread pass of only one thread length, using the same spindle speed, and a chamfer exit out of the thread. Using some local X and Z offset to get it perfect. This will not only eliminate the need for filling but generate a magnificent first thread. Sure, the first time you do it you need to fiddle with it until it's good. But then you simply keep it as a subprogram and it works perfectly every time
Try moving that threading tool back in, I never ever had my threading tools hanging out that far, we used to thread free machining brass at 3,000 rpm and get perfect threads every time, I do appreciate you are working with a much harder material.
Hi Adam always fun to watch videos from you. here is a tip that may help. You have too much protrusion of your tools. your tools should be as close to the turret as possible, to be as rigid as possible. if you don't have room to reduce the tool protrusion, I would cut off part of the tool holder to have less protrusion on the tools. You will solve a lot of problems with it and you will get better results. Also use a torque wrench for the chuck, so that you better learn how much torque you need, and get more stable results between the parts.
I wonder if the skloppy fit of the original bolt is intentional. The dovetail ring for the locking screws is just a casting, so I assume it has some runout or at least inconsistency.
G'day Adam Another great video, with all the bits & piece looking reasonably good, and fitting nicely into the base area Keep up the good work, catch you on the next one. Have a Great & Prosperous New Year 2024🎉😊
Nice video Adam 😊 i see that learning cnc is really an experience. I have a job shop, working on our own equipment, so i only have manual machines. I like that content, cant wait for the next video, thx Adam 😀
Great work, Adam! You not only have some parts that will please your customer, but you also have a program that is potentially a valuable piece of intellectual property for your shop. I earned a living as a software engineer since the late 1960's. The basic principles of modularity, testing, consistent naming of variables, and clear documentation really haven't changed that much since the beginning. It took a while to get the field going, but these principles hold for all engineering, not just writing software. Please tell us why the Fusion360 cutter went red when you simulated cutting the groove at the end of the thread. I suspect that it was noticing that the ball mill was being asked to plunge into a sloping surface. Just a guess on my part, but it would be fun to know. There are two manual operations that perhaps you could automate. First, could you just put the stock in without measuring by hand and then have a Renishaw touch probe find the length? Your program could stop and declare an error if the length was way off. After the end is faced (with minimal machining), the probe could be used again to test for shifting of the part in the chuck. The second is your use of the file to clean off the tops of the threads. I can think of several ways to ensure clean thread tops automatically.
So After all the troubleshooting you did getting things dialed in, the material doesn’t fit in the chuck 😬 man I appreciate your patience and willingness to broaden your horizons. I may have wound up finishing the bolt manually then smashing the cnc with a sledge 😂
I don't know a whole lot about machining, but I figured I would pose a hypothesis on the slippage or push-back you're experiencing and how to fix it. I don't know what type of coolant you're using, but I'm guessing it's an oil/water mix, and that's what's causing the slippage. I would do a more thorough drying of the chuck jaws interface faces with a clean rag, and if your flipping the stock, wipe that down too. Maybe you already do that and don't show it, I don't know, just figured I would throw it out there and see if it helps. Thanks for sharing what you do and how you do it. YT wouldn't be the same without you.
Hi Adam, I've been watching your channel for years, I really appreciate all of the educational content you've put out. One suggestion, you might want to check out a spacemouse if you're going to be using fusion regularly. It takes a little getting used to, but once you have it down it makes using CAD so much faster and more enjoyable. I don't do it day in and day out so don't find a need for the more expensive ones with all the programmable buttons, and I think the cheap ones are only like $100 so it's not bad.
This lathe chuck bison bial from the Poland is an old company dating back to the times of communism in the old days, 70 percent of their production went abroad, a lot to the USA. Another company that sold to the American market was Poreba, a company producing heavy conventional lathes.
Nice……. Never thought of the idea there is a difference between the 6 jaw and the 3 jaw on how it grips something that might not be round….. interesting. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hey Adam, one thing to look out for if your getting chatter on your threads is the stick out of that threading tool. I was running a job on our mazak lathe last year. 17-4 stainless steel and we had some chatter on the threads. Sunk the tool in as much as possible and it was night and day difference. That pretty much goes with any tool but i just remember that one particular job and honestly in my mind the tool wasn't even sticking out too far but definitely was enough to cause chatter.
Adam the weak link in your setup is the excessive tool length from the turret. Even if you have to cut the shanks you will gain maximum rigidity. Also check the lead in angle of the threader. Make it so 95% of the material removed is on one side of the vee (29.5 ° lead in angle). Hope this helps. You're doin great!
Tool stickout is usually not the real culprit in this kind of problem. Sure you can get around it by cutting the shank and reducing the stickout, but the core problem remains. That's correcting a symptom rather than the source of the problem. I think first the tool might be overtightened, and the insert angle maybe too shallow for this thread, should be 1 to 2 degrees and not 0, which is shown as one side of the thread is rubbed instead of cut. Also, the number of thread pass is too low, the rpm is too low, and the last pass has a depth of cut too shallow, like a spring pass. It works on a manual machine but on CNC you need at least .0005 of material for the final pass otherwise it will chatter. CNC turning is a whole different world and things that worked for decades suddenly don't anymore.
As can plainly be seen, a 4x stick out on a shank will obviously create rigidity issues especially since it is completely unnecessary. I agree that threading parameters and speeds could be tweaked in many ways. I was just giving one example based on how it sounded to me. As far as your overtightening theory, as long as the fasters are intact and the threads aren't marred, I think he's good. And given Adam's level of experience I think he knows not to go overboard when torquing fasteners.
We tend to use a torque wrench on our CNC chucks, eliminates human error on how tight each operator pulls up tight.
When I first started watching your channel I never thought I would see the day where you would be using things like Fusion360 and having CNC machines. I have really enjoyed your new journey into CNC machining :-)
I do that kind of parts daily and make my own program. I can do that without scraping any part. But I have been doing it for thirty years we have OKUMA machines. You stick with it you will get better. You have all the machining knowledge. One of my tricks is to back off tools and measure then restart program.
I wish I could work on Okuma. Currently on Doosan Puma, which is already nice. But Okuma is something else.
Once you have worked with OKUMA most people love them. There are other great machines also. @@Orakwan
Matt at Diesel Creek has just installed one of these vices.
Good to see your progress on the CNC equipment. Your confidence is growing with your knowledge. Also encouraging to see your developing skills in Fusion 360.
It's always amazing to watch the problem solving. You just work it out in your head, teaching yourself some new things and away you go!
The most accurate vise since middle ages. I would not be surprised if it can clamp a single hair safely at the end.
Of course it's way overkill but he's having fun and I enjoy the work.
Nothing more relaxing than tool prn and some relaxing music.
In 100 years, someone is gonna restore this vice and find that Abom79 logo.
Obviously this is you learning to CAD/CAM and CNC where any project is good, but this shows why one off parts are almost always quicker on a manual machine with a skilled machinist. If you're making multiple parts CNC is king. Happy new year!
I’d love to take you up on that. I’m the one that has been helping Adam with these parts. I would guess that I could draw this and program the lathe side in less than 10 minutes. As you said, he is learning. The next project he does will go quicker. And the one after that will be quicker still. As he said in the video, we could have parted this off in the lathe too. Then move it to the mill and you are looking at about 8 minutes total run time per part for both lathe and mill.
If you watch Jason's videos I think you will find that the choice of material being cast iron was to ensure that that part (easily replaceable) fails before the body or the swivel base. Using steel might mean that the failure point moves to something more catastrophic
Thanks for doing this series, its great!
I love how you can hear the machine adjust RPM to maintain an ideal linear speed for the cutting tool at different radii throughout the operation. For all its complexity and strangeness when coming from manual machining, computers can do some amazing stuff.
I like the sound of the lathe spinning up when the diameter narrows.
Nice to see how well you are doing with the fusion 360 and programming your Milltronics machines! Its definitely an adjustment from going from pretty much all manual work to CNC work. Keep up the good work man!
Loving it. Making an individual part on the CNC is time consuming, and uses a lot of practice material, however if you were to then go into production on the part, and knock out hundreds of the things, the time and effort would be worth it. I used to knock out 'shear pins' for one of our plant during the quiet periods - and the nature of the plant meant they would pop them on a regular basis. If CNC existed back then (well it didn't in our shop), I could have produced 100s of shear pins in the time it took me to make 10s manually - and that was a really simple part.
We use CNC for one off parts pretty often but it really depends on the complexity. If we have tapers with a tight tolerance requirement we'll typically run it CNC by default due to the machines inherent accuracy and it means no setup changes to the lathe are required. But definately depends on the part specifically.
Good to see some more complex parts coming off the CNC. I see a lot of time goes in to the setup and trials. Thank you for the video.
I have been enjoying the series. Keep em coming.
its nice seeing you being open with learning a new skill. we all have our learning curves and its nice of you to share. most here know you are a accomplished machinist and understand where you're coming from. 👌🙋♂️
Great video showing the steps and struggles
It is fantastic to see you continue up the learning curves of driving CAD/CAM and CNC. I love the manual Machining processes you depict so well, the touch of modernized Machining is great though, so many cnc channels on TH-cam make it look relatively easy, the basics of cnc work are not easy to master.
If you’re good at math and have some common sense it’s simple
Fun for this former design/development engineer to see CNC lathe work up close. I was only allowed to look through doors of the machines making my designs. The sound of the spindle speed automatically keeping surface speed constant, and realizing that the spindle is going the other direction and the cutting tools are "upside down" was great. I did not think that I would watch the entire video, as I have no interest in adding CNC to my basic shop, but I enjoyed the entire video.
our cnc designer dont even know how to start up our lathes, and it shows in some of the programing, ive had to get him out on the floor and show the problem then he goes and fixes it, Im an operator and ive never touched a design system, how crazy is that.
Another great video, thanks again for your time and efforts after another year of sharing your life with us. Always got people that think they know it all or don’t like how and why you’re doing things, but you have been the same since the beginning and we all appreciate it. Take care and Happy New Year!!
I agree with the guy below about tool length we always have to shorten our tools.
Good stuff. I am learning Fusion 360 lathe programming as well right now so thanks for showing some of the details that you went through learning it. It was helpful.
I own 3 older milltronics. It is amazing how similar the programing is from 25 years ago on these. Very intuitive conversational programing
I love to see you showing us your way of learning. I can deal with fusion360 quite easily, but don't know if it'd work on a cnc. But I've been dealing with computers since the '85. I still think the manual turning is way more "cool". I find computers boring. But a human that can make parts with
If you turn on optional stop you can check part before next tool and fix it before you cut.
........G'day Adam.
nice work mate.
Cheers,
Malcolm.
Like you, I am also still learning how to operate my small woodworking CNC. (I am retired and now a home hobbyist.) My butt still takes a bite out of my seat every time I run a new program I have written. A crash would be disastrous. I always make an "air cut" before committing to my part. I hope I get more confidence with time. Thanks.
To stop the stock push back in the chuck, get yourself a deflection beam torque wrench. For my 3 jaw chuck, I find 80 foot pounds holds great for heavy roughing operations.
Fireball Hard Tail Vice ULTIMATE EDITION!
I don't know who Fireball Tools is having machine this part for them but they definitely out to talk to you! Beautiful work!
The amount of time he has taken to finish one vise is not cost effective for him nor fireball.
Thank you Adam love watching your videos happy new year to you and Abby watching from South Africa
Fusion 360 once mastered (and it's not a difficult one to learn step by step)... is a great program.
I think it was Haas who made a video where they measure how spindle speed affects chuck gripping force. It was more than I expected. You might be able to reduce the push-back problem by spinning slower.
Your cnc adventures are working out pretty well. Maybe you could work a deal out with Jason for some American parts for his Made in USA vise
I never thought I'd see you getting comfortable using Fusion 360 and a CNC machine. However, I like it! I've been learning Fusion 360 for 3D printing. It's a handful but it is so gratifying when you ultimately just pump out a design and then the g-code without struggling.
I recently saw a video on the issue of chuck chatter & chuck holding strength (pushback) made by Robrenz titled "LATHE CHUCK MAGIC TRT#5" It's a very interesting video and perhaps some of the information in it could help with these issues. I have been enjoying the series of this vice build & can't wait to see it fully finished & assembled.
Wondering if Jason will ask you to make a batch of the pins for his first batch of US vises. You are just about ready to make a priduction run.
So, part it off leaving about 1 mm stock that will prevent the part from falling. Then break it off after the lathe stops.
Kevin is a real ninja when it comes to CAM in F360, you couldn't ask for a better instructor....I'm getting a kick out of seeing you making the transition to CAD/CAM.
Adam have a Happy, Prosperous, and Productive New Year🎉
Another EPIC video to end off the year with, these never fail to teach you something new! keep up the awesome work and Adam, I hope you have an AWESOME 2024!
Maybe you can get the contract making those parts for Jason. 🙂
Awesome video, again.
Very enjoyable video,Adam.Happy new year.Thank you.
Give Carmex BXC threading inserts a try... They're by far my favorite
That shore is purdy.🤠
Good information thanks for sharing
Turned parts look good, however it sounds a little heavy on screw cutting. I don’t know what options you have available with your lathe and/or cad software but decreasing depth is a great function. I will often take cuts from 0.25 down to 0.01mm, especially on one off parts where cycle time doesn’t really matter.
It seems to be doing constant pressure cuts so depth of cut varies decreasingly. Which is good. I think not enough cuts, too low rpm and the finishing cut is a spring pass causing chatter, should be a real cut of 0.01mm
4140, steel of the Gods!
Lovely stuff to machine
Glad to see you embracing the world of CNC and fusion 360. You only have eight passes on your threading cycle. I can hear it’s really cutting chips hard. I would change that to 20 passes. You’re not trying to run production here you’re trying to make a good part. Great video enjoy the series. when I thread, I make the diameter of the thread, .005 less than nominal size. this will save you on filing.
Adam, there are two really useful suggestions here!
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Adam, I might suggest that you get a torque wrench to use on the chuck instead of the "T" handle, and tighten all three scrolls to a set torque which you will have to determine with some testing.
Enjoyed watching - Thanks
A 2 1/2’ shop vac crevis attachment works good to catch parts during cut off.
Maybe a nice tip: turn the solidbodies off when simulating. This will insure you have a good representation of the cuts it will make.
Your pushback problem might be related to Max spindle RPM for the Chuck. Maybe limiting the RPM might help.
Hi.
There is very nice film.
And its very nice to see you got "MADE IN POLAND" lathe chuck... :))
Very good job.
Happyy new year !
You are a Master. No doubting that.
We see a lot of personal projects now on this channel, which is great, but what is he working on for his 9-5 (if anything at all)? He used to show stuff like that at motion but not anymore. Miss that kinda content.
Like CEE he now works for TH-cam (?)
He has 550k+ subs - This is the income dude. TH-cam can replace your day to day job
Consider rerunning the finish pass over the od of the thread, and then re running the finishing pass of the thread. Should eliminate the need for filing.
He can actually use his grooving tool already in the machine and make a thread pass of only one thread length, using the same spindle speed, and a chamfer exit out of the thread. Using some local X and Z offset to get it perfect. This will not only eliminate the need for filling but generate a magnificent first thread. Sure, the first time you do it you need to fiddle with it until it's good. But then you simply keep it as a subprogram and it works perfectly every time
Try moving that threading tool back in, I never ever had my threading tools hanging out that far, we used to thread free machining brass at 3,000 rpm and get perfect threads every time, I do appreciate you are working with a much harder material.
Hi Adam
always fun to watch videos from you.
here is a tip that may help. You have too much protrusion of your tools. your tools should be as close to the turret as possible, to be as rigid as possible.
if you don't have room to reduce the tool protrusion, I would cut off part of the tool holder to have less protrusion on the tools.
You will solve a lot of problems with it and you will get better results.
Also use a torque wrench for the chuck, so that you better learn how much torque you need, and get more stable results between the parts.
I wonder if the skloppy fit of the original bolt is intentional.
The dovetail ring for the locking screws is just a casting, so I assume it has some runout or at least inconsistency.
Хорошее видео. Желаю крепкого здоровья и счастья в новом году!)
Viewers might enjoy seeing you broaching the allen in the vice screw.
Don’t think he is broaching it. Using an end mill.
Yes I heard very clearly he (AB)said he would be drilling 6(six) holes and end mill out a the allen,please reread first post
@@jamesmullins5850Ok, then send him the rotary broaching tool and proper size rotary broach.
Fabulous. ...... & Happy New Year !
just wondering when you learn on the milltronics how will it be going to the big flex will there be another learning curve to go through thanks
G'day Adam Another great video, with all the bits & piece looking reasonably good, and fitting nicely into the base area
Keep up the good work, catch you on the next one.
Have a Great & Prosperous New Year 2024🎉😊
Great job. Thank you 😊
Nice video Adam 😊 i see that learning cnc is really an experience. I have a job shop, working on our own equipment, so i only have manual machines. I like that content, cant wait for the next video, thx Adam 😀
Since the vise has a 5/8-11 thread tapped in the bottom you can put the whole thing on your angle grinder and really put that vise to work.
it's worth it to get good at CNC! Good for you and keep going!
Your a brave man parting a big lump of stainless off like that lol
Iearingis aimed thing we all go thru, videos as well as matching. Thank you.
Great work, Adam! You not only have some parts that will please your customer, but you also have a program that is potentially a valuable piece of intellectual property for your shop. I earned a living as a software engineer since the late 1960's. The basic principles of modularity, testing, consistent naming of variables, and clear documentation really haven't changed that much since the beginning. It took a while to get the field going, but these principles hold for all engineering, not just writing software.
Please tell us why the Fusion360 cutter went red when you simulated cutting the groove at the end of the thread. I suspect that it was noticing that the ball mill was being asked to plunge into a sloping surface. Just a guess on my part, but it would be fun to know.
There are two manual operations that perhaps you could automate. First, could you just put the stock in without measuring by hand and then have a Renishaw touch probe find the length? Your program could stop and declare an error if the length was way off. After the end is faced (with minimal machining), the probe could be used again to test for shifting of the part in the chuck. The second is your use of the file to clean off the tops of the threads. I can think of several ways to ensure clean thread tops automatically.
Adam, you could use the CNC to engrave your logo in the vise (even unseen if you prefer). Could be cool, and also makes your example the special one.
So After all the troubleshooting you did getting things dialed in, the material doesn’t fit in the chuck 😬 man I appreciate your patience and willingness to broaden your horizons. I may have wound up finishing the bolt manually then smashing the cnc with a sledge 😂
Hi Adam... noy only you can make a batch of those things in an hour...but you can also be attending another job while the cnc makes its magic.
Nice job Adam and Have a Happy Prosperous New Year for You and Yours.
I don't know a whole lot about machining, but I figured I would pose a hypothesis on the slippage or push-back you're experiencing and how to fix it. I don't know what type of coolant you're using, but I'm guessing it's an oil/water mix, and that's what's causing the slippage. I would do a more thorough drying of the chuck jaws interface faces with a clean rag, and if your flipping the stock, wipe that down too. Maybe you already do that and don't show it, I don't know, just figured I would throw it out there and see if it helps. Thanks for sharing what you do and how you do it. YT wouldn't be the same without you.
Thanks for sharing.
Looking good. Maybe add a final op with a parting/grooving tool to add a guide for the bandswaw?
I use Solidworks for my main design work and I use Fusion 360 for my CNC flat bed router
Hi Adam, I've been watching your channel for years, I really appreciate all of the educational content you've put out. One suggestion, you might want to check out a spacemouse if you're going to be using fusion regularly. It takes a little getting used to, but once you have it down it makes using CAD so much faster and more enjoyable. I don't do it day in and day out so don't find a need for the more expensive ones with all the programmable buttons, and I think the cheap ones are only like $100 so it's not bad.
I've learned to get rid of burrs on threads is to rerun your finish turn and rerun your thread in the program (P00000 for fanuc)
Thank you!
You may have opened up Pandora's Box. Everyone will want your version!
perhaps instead of a hex in the end of part, use 2 holes for a spanner?
does it change rpm automatically or do you have to program that?
The CAM program does that. It’s called constant surface speed.
Adam, question, rather than machine the pocket in the base could you not make the change to the pivot bolt shoulder?
This lathe chuck bison bial from the Poland is an old company dating back to the times of communism in the old days, 70 percent of their production went abroad, a lot to the USA. Another company that sold to the American market was Poreba, a company producing heavy conventional lathes.
4140 ground stock will push back in scroll 3 jaw . If you feed more then 0.25mm ( like 10thou) . Have that same problem
I love cnc lathe,
Nice……. Never thought of the idea there is a difference between the 6 jaw and the 3 jaw on how it grips something that might not be round….. interesting. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Would a torque wrench for tightening the lathe chuck be a good idea, so that you can be sure you've tightened it down the same every time you use it?
Please use a large torque wrench for the 3 jaw.
...not only for more torque but also to get some kind of an idea where you are when figuring out how much torque you need.