Marking blue and set out tools a trades man's tools. As a engineering Pattern Maker I loved doing set outs taper , core prints , core box's, machine allowances and contraction. Kit from down under
I made a similar setup for my Colchester. I found that power feed is less likely to cause a dig in, and lots of coolant is beneficial, especially for aluminium. It might be worth checking the alignment of your parting tool with the X axis with an indicator, but you've probably done that. Regards, Mark
Thanks, Mark. I aligned the parting tool (not with a dti) but am yet to get the coolant pump running. My problem was so obvious when I checked the set up. After correcting the result was perfect.
Hi Clive. Thank you for showing your sturdy and versatile rear tool post. I must make a new one for my Myford. I am disappointed with the one I have which uses the ‘tilting boat’. A fiddly faff. 👍🥴
Presumably your Colchester has a keyed spindle nose so that it can spin in both directions. In which case, it's rather counterproductive to use a toolpost that actually lifts the cross slide off its vee ways during operation. Even if you have got your rear gibs perfectly adjusted (difficult with an older, worn machine), cutting forces will be driving the tool off centre in a manner you can't control or predict. The reason it's done on Myfords is due to the threaded spindle nose which prevents clockwise rotation. As you don't have that limitation on the Student, you seem to be creating unnecessary problems for yourself. Why not shorten the body and flip the tool the right way up, then you can run your machine in reverse. You can then use the bed vees in the way they were intended - to accurately maintain the tool position. And yes, as mentioned below, power crossfeed is much safer and consistent than manual.
Thanks, Murray. You make some good points. Yes, it has a keyed register so no problem running in reverse. Fortunately my saddle doesn't lift much (yet to be measured) and in practice doesn't seem to affect things. Now that you mention tool alignment I can see that lifting of the rear of the saddle would, theoretically, move the tool closer to the work which would be unhelpful. In practice that doesn't seem to be a problem on either of my lathes. The issue encountered in this video was due to my gross incompetence - to be covered next video.
Hi Clive, here in Philippines I can only source Silver Steel from Radio Spares ex UK, not cheap. How easy is it to source where you are? In West Australia I had to source it from the east coast, doesn't seem to be a common material being so versatile for the machinist.
Hello Willem. Now I am back in the UK I have no problem sourcing in various sizes upto about diameter 3/4in. But even here it isn't cheap. Could you find an alternative like tool steel?
Excellent work as per usual Clive. The toolpost is very solid and stable.
Thanks, Carl. Hopefully its sturdiness will be demonstrated in the next video!
Marking blue and set out tools a trades man's tools. As a engineering Pattern Maker I loved doing set outs taper , core prints , core box's, machine allowances and contraction.
Kit from down under
Thanks, Kit. Unlike you I am an amateur. Yes, it would be a shame to see these skills die.
Nice. I teems to work just fine.
Well, it ends up working better in the next video. Thanks!
I made a similar setup for my Colchester. I found that power feed is less likely to cause a dig in, and lots of coolant is beneficial, especially for aluminium. It might be worth checking the alignment of your parting tool with the X axis with an indicator, but you've probably done that.
Regards, Mark
Thanks, Mark. I aligned the parting tool (not with a dti) but am yet to get the coolant pump running. My problem was so obvious when I checked the set up. After correcting the result was perfect.
Nice work.
Thank you!
Hi Clive. Thank you for showing your sturdy and versatile rear tool post. I must make a new one for my Myford. I am disappointed with the one I have which uses the ‘tilting boat’. A fiddly faff. 👍🥴
Thanks, Andrew. Yes, I can imagine that style of post would be less than ideal in this application.
Please check motor rotation of your shaper as backstroke is slower than forward one which indicate oposite rotation of electric motor.
Well observed! Yes, it was running in reverse. The wiring needs to be changed.
Presumably your Colchester has a keyed spindle nose so that it can spin in both directions. In which case, it's rather counterproductive to use a toolpost that actually lifts the cross slide off its vee ways during operation. Even if you have got your rear gibs perfectly adjusted (difficult with an older, worn machine), cutting forces will be driving the tool off centre in a manner you can't control or predict. The reason it's done on Myfords is due to the threaded spindle nose which prevents clockwise rotation. As you don't have that limitation on the Student, you seem to be creating unnecessary problems for yourself. Why not shorten the body and flip the tool the right way up, then you can run your machine in reverse. You can then use the bed vees in the way they were intended - to accurately maintain the tool position. And yes, as mentioned below, power crossfeed is much safer and consistent than manual.
Thanks, Murray. You make some good points. Yes, it has a keyed register so no problem running in reverse. Fortunately my saddle doesn't lift much (yet to be measured) and in practice doesn't seem to affect things. Now that you mention tool alignment I can see that lifting of the rear of the saddle would, theoretically, move the tool closer to the work which would be unhelpful. In practice that doesn't seem to be a problem on either of my lathes. The issue encountered in this video was due to my gross incompetence - to be covered next video.
Hi Clive, here in Philippines I can only source Silver Steel from Radio Spares ex UK, not cheap.
How easy is it to source where you are?
In West Australia I had to source it from the east coast, doesn't seem to be a common material being so versatile for the machinist.
Hello Willem. Now I am back in the UK I have no problem sourcing in various sizes upto about diameter 3/4in. But even here it isn't cheap. Could you find an alternative like tool steel?