I just got done , repairing my 2011 samsung front loader washing machine. Using the bearing kit i bought from you. Thank you for the youtube video and putting these bearing and seal kits together. There was a little water in the bearing but no water was dripping in the cabinet. I don,t know what failed first the seal or the bearings. The bearing i took out were made in Korea and the ones i just installed were made in china. The whole repair cost less than 90 bucks. The washer is now running like a new one. Think You . I could not have done it without you. It took me all day, but it was well worth it. Thank You Again Bill D
Good video. I just did the replacement on my washer. Do yourself a favor and order another spider and bolts. My bearings actually didn't fail but my spider did. I ended up replacing the bearing seal, spider, 6 spider bolts (all of them seized), guide assembly, and the door boot seal. Overall cost was about $300. This was a lot cheaper than the $1,000 quote I received from my appliance guy. I could have bought another washer for a few hundred more, however, samsung doesn't make the same color that I have anymore. Since I bought a set I didn't want mismatching appliances. I'd also recommend having two people do this task. You will probably need someone to help you remove the drum and it also helps having someone there to remind you where all the parts go.
My Samsung machine wasn't on your list, probably because it is only 2.5 years old but the bearing where screaming. Just wanted to say how helpful your staff was in getting the right seal and bearing set for my machine. They even remembered my name:) Parts shipped and arrived next day. They were correct and the machine is re-assembled and washing clothes. Glad I found your video but you can be very proud of your helpful staff!! Thank you all!!!
Leigh- Glad we took care of you. My son Gabe ships all the kits and our support team at HomeTask is very gracious with hearts to serve and help people. Glad it shows! Jerrod
Sir I recommend using the old bearing to tap in the new one IOT prevent damage to the housing. Better than a makeshift tool. Awesome video by the way. cheers to ya clint
Thanks for your video. We had the same thing happen to our washer and tried everything to fix it. Your video was very helpful in showing us the entire machine and it's components.
Thanks for the video. My washing machine sounded like a helicopter. I replaced the bearing and seal and it works fine now. Cheap fix but a lot of work.
Thanks,grate video, thank your son for his help, took it apart part to day with your help ,wanted to make sure spider was not broke, just dirty, removed to clean it and ordered the bearing kit from you , hoping to get 5 more year out of it ,, and use the pure cycle more to keep the in side clean , spider had a lot of build up , probably bid not help the bearing , it would out of balance with all the skum on it , thanks most help full ,
After denting the metal shield on a couple sets of bearings, I tried dry ice. I put the new bearings overnight in the freezer. The next morning I got 2 pounds of dry ice from a local ice cream shop and put the bearings into ziploc bags in the dry ice for 4 hours. The bearings dropped right in with no pounding! If the bearing carrier isn't corroded or damaged I recommend this method over using a hammer.
great video sir....however I have only one question. ... if the washer is making a rocket take off sound during the rinse cycle. ...also when a manually turn the drum it makes a sound as if balls are still turning when the drum stops ....should I just get a new washer
Well, I just got mine apart.The seal was still functioning and my bearings are fine.I am going to replace the spider,bearings[bought from you thank you] and seal.what I think was causing mine to go out of balance was the amount of fabric softener that had built up on the spider.A bit of a project!
Have you had issues with leakage around the outside of the seal? My Samsung did NOT have silicone around the seal originally. I smeared a thin coat of aquarium silicone around mine. I pushed it all the way in, rather than having it sit flush. Did I do this correctly? Should the seal be pushed all the way into the spot?
How far in did you push the seal? If I set the seal flush, it rides too close to the back of the spider, outside the machined area. If I set it all the way in, the main (motor-facing) lip rides all the way against the back edge of the spider. It looks like the seal has to be recessed about 0.1" but not set all the way in. This is on a WF409.
+lilroc89 Yes! Sorry for the slow response. I didn't see your comment. We have a kit (kit# 8192) for that model here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
great video. two questions: (1) how do you get the 6 bolts holding the spider assy off if they are stuck? (2)when you reassemble the 2 plastic drum pieces together do you recommend using some sort of water proof silicone material all around the perimeter of the old gasket to stop leaks, or just reassemble by just re-tightening the bolts only? thank you.
The screws for the spider can be really tough if they are corroded which they often are. Clean them up and be patient. For reconnecting the tub halves, I recommend a small amount of 100 silicone sealer. This will ensure it seals up and remains serviceable in the future.
+rom1net thank you! the bolts did come off, but only two survived. will buy new ones to replace. what is "100 silicone"? did you mean 100% silicone? lastly, should i add grease to the new spider assembly axel? if so what type?
Paul - Yes, we have a no questions returns policy for sure. We are doing this to help people save money more than anything else. Go here to get your repair kit: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx I also looked up the spider and this one should work for your machine: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rear-Drum-Support/DC9715491A/2077008?ss=-x7766343039616e772f786161&mr=1
John, It could be a spider issue or a bearing/seal issue. If the inner bearing is deteriorated to the point where it is disintegrated then you will get the banging. If the spider is broken (less common) then you will also get the banging. You can order a repair kit specific to your machine here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx Jerrod
My spin cycle is very wobbly and noisy. Can you tell me what bearing in the drum that I need to buy. Like the numbers on the bearings. I have a Samsung vtr steam washer wf419aaw/xaa thanks a lot!
good video. Do you have a bearing kit for this washer. I have a samsung washer model number WF448AAP XAA. It also has a "02" right after the number. I am not sure if this is part of the model number.
+Jesus Hernandez Yes, if you visit this page, you can search for your model and you can also order it there: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx - Your machine takes a 8193 repair kit.
+HomeTask Would you have the front door seal? That is leaking water out the front of the washer. If not then I can order it from SamSung. I just don't want to give them anymore money. I bought every appliance in my house in a SamSung and everyone has broken down on me within the year and continually after that.
Have you ever seen anyone paint the spider bracket? On a forum someone talked about powder coating their replacement. I don't think I'd go that far but it made me think about giving it a coating of Rust-Oleum.
I have seen and talked to guys that have taken a brand new machine apart that they just bought and treat the spider with epoxy paint or powder coat. It is also a good idea if you take it apart to put some sort of coating on it that will actually adhere to the material. It depends upon the water quality and soap type being used in the machine but it is a good idea to protect the spider.
Hey Jerrod/HomeTask. Thanks for this video. It was very helpful for getting my machine apart (although there were some necessary steps missed in the video). I believe my machine has the same failed seal problem. The drive shaft doesn't have any marks or scarring, but it does look dirty. The seal seemed deformed but I'm not sure if it's from me removing it. The previous owner complained that it made a roaring noise during the spin cycle. The model is WF419AAW/XAA. Before dis-assembly I was suspicious at finding odd sandy/flaky debris in the filter housing. When I took the drum apart, the spider assembly was found to be completely destroyed. It had utterly disintegrated - literally into dust and plastic flakes. It was barely recognizable as a spider. This dust was found in the drain tube in the bottom of the machine, through the diverter and into the pump (about 3-4 cups of dust/flakes in total). Do you think that the pump was harmed by this dust? What could possibly cause the spider to fail in such a manner? Do you have any other advice for me or can you think of anything else I should check or replace before putting the machine back together?
Mike- This is actually very common and it is caused by the type of water being used in the machine (type of water in your neighborhood) and the type of soap you are using. Situations can also be worse depending upon the unique combination of the these two (water condition and type of soap). The spider for your machine is available to purchase separately so that is good news. See it here: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Samsung-Washing-Machine-Rear-Drum-Support/DC9715491A/2077008?modelNumber=WF419AAW&ss=a11b160d1068986&mr=1 The bearing failure is what the previous owners were hearing. That was caused by water being allowed past the seal (the seal failed) and eventually caused the whining or roaring sound. The spider failure is a separate issue caused by the water and soap mix. I would coat the new spider with an epoxy paint at a minimum before installing the new one so that it lasts longer. You can get a replacement bearing and seal kit for your machine here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx You should be able to clean out the hoses and pump and continue to use them. The dust from the spider is usually let out very slowly and does not damage the pump. Even if it is damaged, they are inexpensive and easy to replace through the lower front panel later if needed. Jerrod
Hey Jerrod, Just an update on this - I got your bearing kit and ordered the drum support flange (spider). I got everything apart (and cleaned an absolutely astounding amount of mold). After putting things back together I was able to run the machine and everything works absolutely flawlessly (and is quiet as a mouse - much quieter than a much newer washer in our house). Thanks a bunch! As a bit of advice for those who might consider this procedure - while you have your washer apart you really ought to consider cleaning out and disinfecting any mold that (very likely) is in your drum. I didn't realize how bad our washer smelled until I got it cleaned up.
Mike, I agree. I know some guys have epoxied the spider before assembly. I feel like one good thing we can do is run a disinfectant load through the machine periodically to kill all that junk and keep it from growing/building up. I know everyone says to keep the door open when not in use but that is not realistic to try to train everyone to do consistently and looks sloppy so probably isn't going to happen. If anyone has a suggestion on some disinfectant to use periodically in a load then I am all ears. Jerrod
Your video was great. Thank you so very much. Ordered bearings and the seal and replaced the parts. No problem. However, at high rpm I hear whining. Could this be the seal/shaft interface? Could this be motor/spindle interface? I didn't grease the shaft, seal or the bearing ID races. Is this typically done? Everything looked good and clean and went together well. Should I take the motor apart and put a little grease on teeth of shaft for lubed motor interface? This makes sense to me. I had a local guy tell me I should have greased shaft and bearing ID races and seal. Your advice?
Jamey, There are a number of things that could be causing this. First, let me address the assembly lube topic. The inner and outer races should never move once they are installed. In fact, if they are installed with lube then it will contribute to slippage which can make a huge mess of the assembly. The ONLY mechanical parts in motion are the balls between the inner and outer races. The races remain fixed and should never move. When the inner race moves, it grooves the shaft. When the outer race moves, it loosens and ruins the outer tub assembly. Now to address the whine. It could be that the rear nut holding the pulley is overtightened. Unfortunately, these assemblies do not have a thrust bearing or mechanism to stop them from moving forward and back or to prevent tension if they are over compressed at assembly. It is a rather raw approach but it is cheap and easy for the manufactures to use. The noise could also be happening in a similar manner if both of the bearings and the seal were not fully seated. This could happen if the seal is rubbing slightly on the shaft (under tension) or the spider (if not installed fully). This noise can also happen at the tub spins and rubs on the front boot. Realigning the boot will help this situation. The noise can also be coming from the motor and may have been there before but was not detectable because the bearings were making so much noise. If it was my machine, I would run it. I may try to loosen the pulley nut slightly but that would be all that I would do other than monitoring it for a while. Hope this helps. Good job on the repair. Jerrod
What you say about "assembly lube" makes perfect sense to me. Thank you. As for the whine, I will loosen the nut holding the pulley slightly, otherwise, I'll run as is. Thank you.
hi i put in the bearings, but the tub does not turn freely, so the machine wont work did i do something wrong, it doest look like those bearings can go in crooked, so what might be causing to not turn freely. thanks
+geeky giant Did you make sure the bearings were set completely? You should have pounded them in until you heard a dead sound as you pounded. If they are not in all the way then it could bind and not spin freely.
my samsung washer just like this has started smelling like burning rubber or chemical of some kind after a wash, and the last was actually had a little smoke coming out. I am assuming the bearings & seal are the culprit and are at fault. THe video above is helpful in pulling it all apart & replacing, but could you speak to the symptoms that I've described...
Chris, The seal is likely rubbing on the spider. This can be caused by a bad bearing or a broken spider. Both are fairly basic to repair on a Samsung machine. What happens is that the seal is sitting still but the drum is turning and there is very little space in between then so any movement from the bearings or the spider and they end up rubbing against each other. Get one of our kits and take the machine apart and if you need order the spider and you should be good to go. www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx Jerrod
If my rubber gasket (door seal) is damaged does it automatically mean that i have to change my bearings. We hear something trickling down when we manually turn the tub. Our machine is 7 years old. Noise and burnt smell started after a large load. We only did 2 more small loads afterwards.
Alain- The front rubber boot is deteriorated by use but more so by the water make up in your area and the type of detergent that you are using. Once the rubber is dried or otherwise infected with chemicals then it is susceptible to cracking and breaking. This damage is often correlated with the seal and bearing failure but you must evaluate the machine based on its condition to see if the seal and bearings need to be replaced. In other words, is it making noise or does it not spin smoothly? I also take into consideration the effort to change out the boot and the fact that the machine is already apart so why not replace the seal and bearings also. You can order a repair kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
have water leaking from the bottom Main tub bolts which join the 2 halves together. Samsung wf306lawxaa Is this a Tub Gasket Problem of something else?
+ray tyler Ray - It is fairly uncommon for the main tank seal to leak but it is possible and likely. Open the back panel and check to see if the water is running down to the bottom of the tank from the rear of the tank where the pulley and in your case the motor is located. The water is most likely either coming from a weep hole near the rear of the tank or it is coming from the main tank seal. I have only ever seen one tank that leaked from the main seal so it is possible but much more likely to be the internal seal that protects the bearings. Another way of making a determination would be to pour a few gallons of water into the tank with it not running. This water would not be able to get up to the internal seal so it could only leak through the main tank seal. Good luck with it. Jerrod
+HomeTask ok, I have moved my washer to my garage where I placed it on a work bench. there I slightly tightened the 4 or 5 screws I could see. The bottom right screw (when looking through from the back is even discolored "Rust" which tells me this has been happening for a while and just progressed to a noticeable level. I could not see any moisture coming from above last night but will recheck when I get home.
Great video. I see so many Samsung's with this problem. Now that I know the seal and bearing kit is only about $80 I can lower my estimate and sell this repair more often. I don't have easy access to an engine hoist or similar, could you use something to support the tub from underneath? I'm sure it would take several items to support the tub. Thanks for this detailed video.
LJ W In some of my other videos, I show that I use a small go-kart tire under the tank when unhooking the tub. I used the strap on this one but I normally do not. I usually just lift one side at a time and pull the tub out after both are unhooked. Having an extra hand at that point is helpful as well.
my front load samsung washer tries to spin at low speeds it knocks a little then when it tries to rev up it starts shaking and making a horrible knocking noise then stops and gives an error code does thst sound like a bearing, spider or both?
Hey Jerrod, the drum on my WF409ANW/XAA isn't turning. When I move it by hand it gets bound up, an appliance friend said it was the rear bearing. I'm wondering can the shaft also get damaged? The more I read the forum I'm wondering if I should also change the spider assembly. Your thoughts
Paul - It could be the bearings but you would have heard some noise from them before they just bound up and broke. If the machine is used infrequently then this is more likely to happen this way. The shaft is normally not damaged significantly enough to prevent the repair from being successful. Only if the bearing was allowed to slip on the shaft does that sort of damage usually happen. The spider could be damaged or broken as well but you would know that as the drum would be sagging or have excessive up/down movement where it seems like it is just not connected to the shaft. The repair kits are inexpensive compared to all other alternatives. Best to order a kit and take the machine apart and make the repair. Your machine also have a replaceable spider (most do not) so that is good news as the spider is under $100 also in case you need it. Jerrod
HomeTask i just paid someone to do this except they said it is best to replace the spider and the bearings? Anyway, now that it's done when I run my washer the tub fills in the rinse section and I have to put my fabric softener in the soap section when it's on rinse. Any idea what cause that? They are reversed. Thanks in advance.
Sounds like the fill tube may have been installed incorrectly but it is really difficult to tell as I didn't think that was even possible. Can you take another stab and explaining what is actually happening?
the tray you slide out to put detergent in. When I turn the washer on and fill it the soap section with soap, it's filling in the fabric softener section in the tray. When I switch the dial to rinse only, it fill the soap section of the tray with water.
They are reversed Therefore I would have to start it on.a rinse cycle to get my soap to go down into the machine. I think maybe the wires that connect to the inlets may have been mixed up? I have no clue!!!
+Troy Longtin Troy-Yes, it is either an 8193 or an 8194. 8194 will cover both but it depends upon how many bearings you have in your machine. Have you taken it apart yet? www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
+Troy Longtin Troy - Yes, I saw the same but that does not necessarily cover the details as they are purposefully vague with their details around the bearings as they have had so many issues and changes to try to get it right. If you order, let me know and I will make sure you get the parts for either situation.
+Troy Longtin I ended up ordering off amazon and the seller said it would fit. I can tell immediately that the bearing for behind the stator on the tub is too large. I measured my outside diameter to about 61mm with a caliper. Do you have any recomendations or Do i still need to get the measurement of the tub bearing that is deeper?
I have a Samsung Model WF330ANW/XAA...Do you have a Bearing and Seal Kit for this Model?....Also ,would I use the same method on mine as you did in this video?.....BTW...Kart Racing Rocks!!...NOLA Motorsports Park Racers here.
+tinbender1960 Yes, that is our 8190 repair kit. Agree about racing. Have 2 boys that love it and have been learning life skills through it for years! Purchase kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
+tinbender1960 Also, yes, the procedures are nearly identical for your machine and the one show. You have a newer model than the one shown but the basic process is the same for removing the assembly.
As a widow the last 2 1/2 yrs with an 83 yr old father & Wounded Warrior in CA I'm now the handywoman around the house where everything is falling apart. Grrrrr. Anyways I really appreciate the informative video. I know you were working alone so it was hard to video every small detail. Thing is when I finally got my washer apart I can see seal & bearing but i keep thinking I see you simply take off another seal directly off shaft before rmoving 1 in drum housing. Is this correct or are there 2 seals & e bearing housing on shaft between stupid spider & motor? Haven't taken those out yet afraid I mess up bearing & seal & they might still be good. I'm trying to be careful with my little resourses that's why I'm tackling this by myself. I'll admit when it comes to eletronics I technology challanged so I don't know how to send a picture on utube, do you have an email address I could send picture? Thanks again for ant & all assistance + advice
There is only one seal that you will find on the shaft next to the spider or it will be stuck in the housing (where it should be) inside the tub. It WILL NOT be below the motor. But, you do need to remove the motor if it is mounted directly to the back of the tub as there is a bearing under it that needs to be replaced. We can also put a note on the chat forum for this to see if there is someone in your area that is familiar with the repair that could help you. We have a fairly active chat forum.
If you look on this page: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx - your model number falls under an 8190 repair kit. You can also order the repair kit on that same page.
Ok well I did order the bearing kit, I just figure while I have everything out to replace the spider I might as well replace the bearing. I pray I don't have to take washer apart again. I will be working on getting the old bearing out while I'm waiting for the new. I still would like to find out how to obtain an owner/repair manual if you might know where I can obtain.
Shifty - The bearing and seal kit can only be purchased here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx For the other parts like the spider, search appliance parts pros or repair clinic. They who I use for a lot of various parts and pieces.
+Graham Bate - It looks like our 8193 repair kit but I am verifying that with a little research now. Do you happen to have the machine apart yet? If you can provide a couple of numbers off parts or measurements then I can make sure we are sending you the correct parts. www.yellowvanhandyman.com
+Graham Bate - OK, I finished the research and we do have the kit for this. I can be two of our kits but I can send you the larger kit which has everything in it for both. I just need you to let me know what you use out of the kit so I can verify for future orders. Order at www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair and let me know once you place the order.
Great. Let me know what you need and we can get it out to you. Take photos and look at any numbers off the bearings and seal. You can also measure them and we can identify the parts that way.
My front loader sounds like a helicopter is landing! Appliance guy (who doesn't work on Samsung or LG) said it was the bearing. My question is "Is it worth the $ to repair? Is this a problem that is going to continue to break...like every 2 yrs or does this repair fix the Samsung defect?" Thank you!
Yes, it is well worth is because the new ones that you pay $1000 for will need a new bearing and seal kit in a year or two! The manufacturers are making bank on this deal.
What causes the bearings to fail? My Samsung Washing machine WF419AANW/XAA is not spinning. I have Home Warranty and the service tech came out, looked at the machine and blamed it on overloading. Because of this, our claim was denied. I don't recall using it beyond its intended operating capacity. Since I have no other choice, I'm probably going to uptake this repair, just need to do a little bit more research and find a window of time. Thanks for your video.
I just got done , repairing my 2011 samsung front loader washing machine. Using the bearing kit i bought from you. Thank you for the youtube video and putting these bearing and seal kits together. There was a little water in the bearing but no water was dripping in the cabinet. I don,t know what failed first the seal or the bearings. The bearing i took out were made in Korea and the ones i just installed were made in china. The whole repair cost less than 90 bucks. The washer is now running like a new one. Think You . I could not have done it without you. It took me all day, but it was well worth it. Thank You Again Bill D
+William Dorrough Awesome! So glad it worked out for you!
Jerrod
Good video. I just did the replacement on my washer. Do yourself a favor and order another spider and bolts. My bearings actually didn't fail but my spider did. I ended up replacing the bearing seal, spider, 6 spider bolts (all of them seized), guide assembly, and the door boot seal. Overall cost was about $300. This was a lot cheaper than the $1,000 quote I received from my appliance guy. I could have bought another washer for a few hundred more, however, samsung doesn't make the same color that I have anymore. Since I bought a set I didn't want mismatching appliances. I'd also recommend having two people do this task. You will probably need someone to help you remove the drum and it also helps having someone there to remind you where all the parts go.
My Samsung machine wasn't on your list, probably because it is only 2.5 years old but the bearing where screaming. Just wanted to say how helpful your staff was in getting the right seal and bearing set for my machine. They even remembered my name:) Parts shipped and arrived next day. They were correct and the machine is re-assembled and washing clothes. Glad I found your video but you can be very proud of your helpful staff!! Thank you all!!!
Leigh-
Glad we took care of you. My son Gabe ships all the kits and our support team at HomeTask is very gracious with hearts to serve and help people. Glad it shows!
Jerrod
Sir I recommend using the old bearing to tap in the new one IOT prevent damage to the housing. Better than a makeshift tool.
Awesome video by the way.
cheers to ya
clint
+Wendy Smith excellent idea!
Thanks for your video. We had the same thing happen to our washer and tried everything to fix it. Your video was very helpful in showing us the entire machine and it's components.
Love this video,saved me the price of a new machine, didn't need the bearing's but the tech stuff helped me getherdun. Thank you Home Task.
Excellent!
Thank you so much for the video and the parts. I fixed my washer for about $80 vs hundreds of dollars.
Glad it was helpful Claude!
Thanks for the video. My washing machine sounded like a helicopter. I replaced the bearing and seal and it works fine now. Cheap fix but a lot of work.
Thanks! The job is done. No leaks and working like a champ.
Thanks,grate video, thank your son for his help, took it apart part to day with your help ,wanted to make sure spider was not broke, just dirty, removed to clean it and ordered the bearing kit from you , hoping to get 5 more year out of it ,, and use the pure cycle more to keep the in side clean , spider had a lot of build up , probably bid not help the bearing , it would out of balance with all the skum on it , thanks most help full ,
After denting the metal shield on a couple sets of bearings, I tried dry ice. I put the new bearings overnight in the freezer. The next morning I got 2 pounds of dry ice from a local ice cream shop and put the bearings into ziploc bags in the dry ice for 4 hours. The bearings dropped right in with no pounding! If the bearing carrier isn't corroded or damaged I recommend this method over using a hammer.
great video sir....however I have only one question. ... if the washer is making a rocket take off sound during the rinse cycle. ...also when a manually turn the drum it makes a sound as if balls are still turning when the drum stops ....should I just get a new washer
+IMS OLID (GWOPBOY) this can be repaired. it is the bearings and seal that have failed. Look at www.yellowvanhandyman.com for a repair kit.
Well, I just got mine apart.The seal was still functioning and my bearings are fine.I am going to replace the spider,bearings[bought from you thank you] and seal.what I think was causing mine to go out of balance was the amount of fabric softener that had built up on the spider.A bit of a project!
Have you had issues with leakage around the outside of the seal? My Samsung did NOT have silicone around the seal originally. I smeared a thin coat of aquarium silicone around mine. I pushed it all the way in, rather than having it sit flush. Did I do this correctly? Should the seal be pushed all the way into the spot?
How far in did you push the seal? If I set the seal flush, it rides too close to the back of the spider, outside the machined area. If I set it all the way in, the main (motor-facing) lip rides all the way against the back edge of the spider. It looks like the seal has to be recessed about 0.1" but not set all the way in. This is on a WF409.
I enjoyed your video thank you.i have a wf206bnw/xaa will the bearing kit fit it.
+lilroc89 Yes! Sorry for the slow response. I didn't see your comment. We have a kit (kit# 8192) for that model here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
great video. two questions: (1) how do you get the 6 bolts holding the spider assy off if they are stuck? (2)when you reassemble the 2 plastic drum pieces together do you recommend using some sort of water proof silicone material all around the perimeter of the old gasket to stop leaks, or just reassemble by just re-tightening the bolts only? thank you.
The screws for the spider can be really tough if they are corroded which they often are. Clean them up and be patient. For reconnecting the tub halves, I recommend a small amount of 100 silicone sealer. This will ensure it seals up and remains serviceable in the future.
+rom1net
thank you! the bolts did come off, but only two survived. will buy new ones to replace. what is "100 silicone"? did you mean 100% silicone? lastly, should i add grease to the new spider assembly axel? if so what type?
+rom1net yes, 100% silicone. You can lubricant the spider a little for assembly.
The bearing kit cost $250 if the repair supplied it. Thank you for offering this kit!
I'm glad you mentioned the sagging, it's definitely doing that. If I purchased the bearing kit and didn't have to use it could I return the kit
Paul - Yes, we have a no questions returns policy for sure. We are doing this to help people save money more than anything else. Go here to get your repair kit: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
I also looked up the spider and this one should work for your machine: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rear-Drum-Support/DC9715491A/2077008?ss=-x7766343039616e772f786161&mr=1
thanks for the video my samsung tube is spinning irregular - seems banging against the outer tube. Is that a spider issue or barring issues
John,
It could be a spider issue or a bearing/seal issue. If the inner bearing is deteriorated to the point where it is disintegrated then you will get the banging. If the spider is broken (less common) then you will also get the banging. You can order a repair kit specific to your machine here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Jerrod
My spin cycle is very wobbly and noisy. Can you tell me what bearing in the drum that I need to buy. Like the numbers on the bearings. I have a Samsung vtr steam washer wf419aaw/xaa thanks a lot!
hi, ok so i fixed the turn freely problem, no when i cycle it, it puts out a 3E on the display, any tips on a 3E?
good video. Do you have a bearing kit for this washer. I have a samsung washer model number WF448AAP XAA.
It also has a "02" right after the number. I am not sure if this is part of the model number.
+Jesus Hernandez Yes, if you visit this page, you can search for your model and you can also order it there: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx - Your machine takes a 8193 repair kit.
+HomeTask Would you have the front door seal? That is leaking water out the front of the washer. If not then I can order it from SamSung.
I just don't want to give them anymore money. I bought every appliance in my house in a SamSung and everyone has broken down on me within the year and continually after that.
+Jesus Hernandez - I agree. I use appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com
+HomeTask Thank you. I will order from them.
Have you ever seen anyone paint the spider bracket? On a forum someone talked about powder coating their replacement. I don't think I'd go that far but it made me think about giving it a coating of Rust-Oleum.
I have seen and talked to guys that have taken a brand new machine apart that they just bought and treat the spider with epoxy paint or powder coat. It is also a good idea if you take it apart to put some sort of coating on it that will actually adhere to the material. It depends upon the water quality and soap type being used in the machine but it is a good idea to protect the spider.
Hey Jerrod/HomeTask. Thanks for this video. It was very helpful for getting my machine apart (although there were some necessary steps missed in the video). I believe my machine has the same failed seal problem. The drive shaft doesn't have any marks or scarring, but it does look dirty. The seal seemed deformed but I'm not sure if it's from me removing it.
The previous owner complained that it made a roaring noise during the spin cycle. The model is WF419AAW/XAA.
Before dis-assembly I was suspicious at finding odd sandy/flaky debris in the filter housing. When I took the drum apart, the spider assembly was found to be completely destroyed. It had utterly disintegrated - literally into dust and plastic flakes. It was barely recognizable as a spider. This dust was found in the drain tube in the bottom of the machine, through the diverter and into the pump (about 3-4 cups of dust/flakes in total). Do you think that the pump was harmed by this dust? What could possibly cause the spider to fail in such a manner?
Do you have any other advice for me or can you think of anything else I should check or replace before putting the machine back together?
If you haven't seen anything like this before I can certainly make a video and upload it.
Mike-
This is actually very common and it is caused by the type of water being used in the machine (type of water in your neighborhood) and the type of soap you are using. Situations can also be worse depending upon the unique combination of the these two (water condition and type of soap).
The spider for your machine is available to purchase separately so that is good news. See it here: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Samsung-Washing-Machine-Rear-Drum-Support/DC9715491A/2077008?modelNumber=WF419AAW&ss=a11b160d1068986&mr=1
The bearing failure is what the previous owners were hearing. That was caused by water being allowed past the seal (the seal failed) and eventually caused the whining or roaring sound.
The spider failure is a separate issue caused by the water and soap mix. I would coat the new spider with an epoxy paint at a minimum before installing the new one so that it lasts longer.
You can get a replacement bearing and seal kit for your machine here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
You should be able to clean out the hoses and pump and continue to use them. The dust from the spider is usually let out very slowly and does not damage the pump. Even if it is damaged, they are inexpensive and easy to replace through the lower front panel later if needed.
Jerrod
Hey Jerrod,
Just an update on this - I got your bearing kit and ordered the drum support flange (spider). I got everything apart (and cleaned an absolutely astounding amount of mold).
After putting things back together I was able to run the machine and everything works absolutely flawlessly (and is quiet as a mouse - much quieter than a much newer washer in our house). Thanks a bunch!
As a bit of advice for those who might consider this procedure - while you have your washer apart you really ought to consider cleaning out and disinfecting any mold that (very likely) is in your drum. I didn't realize how bad our washer smelled until I got it cleaned up.
Mike,
I agree. I know some guys have epoxied the spider before assembly. I feel like one good thing we can do is run a disinfectant load through the machine periodically to kill all that junk and keep it from growing/building up. I know everyone says to keep the door open when not in use but that is not realistic to try to train everyone to do consistently and looks sloppy so probably isn't going to happen.
If anyone has a suggestion on some disinfectant to use periodically in a load then I am all ears.
Jerrod
Your video was great. Thank you so very much. Ordered bearings and the seal and replaced the parts. No problem. However, at high rpm I hear whining. Could this be the seal/shaft interface? Could this be motor/spindle interface? I didn't grease the shaft, seal or the bearing ID races. Is this typically done? Everything looked good and clean and went together well. Should I take the motor apart and put a little grease on teeth of shaft for lubed motor interface? This makes sense to me. I had a local guy tell me I should have greased shaft and bearing ID races and seal. Your advice?
Jamey,
There are a number of things that could be causing this. First, let me address the assembly lube topic. The inner and outer races should never move once they are installed. In fact, if they are installed with lube then it will contribute to slippage which can make a huge mess of the assembly. The ONLY mechanical parts in motion are the balls between the inner and outer races. The races remain fixed and should never move. When the inner race moves, it grooves the shaft. When the outer race moves, it loosens and ruins the outer tub assembly.
Now to address the whine. It could be that the rear nut holding the pulley is overtightened. Unfortunately, these assemblies do not have a thrust bearing or mechanism to stop them from moving forward and back or to prevent tension if they are over compressed at assembly. It is a rather raw approach but it is cheap and easy for the manufactures to use. The noise could also be happening in a similar manner if both of the bearings and the seal were not fully seated. This could happen if the seal is rubbing slightly on the shaft (under tension) or the spider (if not installed fully). This noise can also happen at the tub spins and rubs on the front boot. Realigning the boot will help this situation. The noise can also be coming from the motor and may have been there before but was not detectable because the bearings were making so much noise.
If it was my machine, I would run it. I may try to loosen the pulley nut slightly but that would be all that I would do other than monitoring it for a while.
Hope this helps. Good job on the repair.
Jerrod
What you say about "assembly lube" makes perfect sense to me. Thank you. As for the whine, I will loosen the nut holding the pulley slightly, otherwise, I'll run as is. Thank you.
Sounds good. Keep us posted!
hi i put in the bearings, but the tub does not turn freely, so the machine wont work did i do something wrong, it doest look like those bearings can go in crooked, so what might be causing to not turn freely. thanks
+geeky giant Did you make sure the bearings were set completely? You should have pounded them in until you heard a dead sound as you pounded. If they are not in all the way then it could bind and not spin freely.
my samsung washer just like this has started smelling like burning rubber or chemical of some kind after a wash, and the last was actually had a little smoke coming out. I am assuming the bearings & seal are the culprit and are at fault. THe video above is helpful in pulling it all apart & replacing, but could you speak to the symptoms that I've described...
Chris,
The seal is likely rubbing on the spider. This can be caused by a bad bearing or a broken spider. Both are fairly basic to repair on a Samsung machine. What happens is that the seal is sitting still but the drum is turning and there is very little space in between then so any movement from the bearings or the spider and they end up rubbing against each other.
Get one of our kits and take the machine apart and if you need order the spider and you should be good to go.
www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Jerrod
If my rubber gasket (door seal) is damaged does it automatically mean that i have to change my bearings. We hear something trickling down when we manually turn the tub. Our machine is 7 years old. Noise and burnt smell started after a large load. We only did 2 more small loads afterwards.
Alain-
The front rubber boot is deteriorated by use but more so by the water make up in your area and the type of detergent that you are using. Once the rubber is dried or otherwise infected with chemicals then it is susceptible to cracking and breaking. This damage is often correlated with the seal and bearing failure but you must evaluate the machine based on its condition to see if the seal and bearings need to be replaced. In other words, is it making noise or does it not spin smoothly? I also take into consideration the effort to change out the boot and the fact that the machine is already apart so why not replace the seal and bearings also. You can order a repair kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
have water leaking from the bottom Main tub bolts which join the 2 halves together. Samsung wf306lawxaa
Is this a Tub Gasket Problem of something else?
+ray tyler Ray - It is fairly uncommon for the main tank seal to leak but it is possible and likely. Open the back panel and check to see if the water is running down to the bottom of the tank from the rear of the tank where the pulley and in your case the motor is located. The water is most likely either coming from a weep hole near the rear of the tank or it is coming from the main tank seal. I have only ever seen one tank that leaked from the main seal so it is possible but much more likely to be the internal seal that protects the bearings. Another way of making a determination would be to pour a few gallons of water into the tank with it not running. This water would not be able to get up to the internal seal so it could only leak through the main tank seal.
Good luck with it. Jerrod
+HomeTask
ok, I have moved my washer to my garage where I placed it on a work bench. there I slightly tightened the 4 or 5 screws I could see. The bottom right screw (when looking through from the back is even discolored "Rust" which tells me this has been happening for a while and just progressed to a noticeable level. I could not see any moisture coming from above last night but will recheck when I get home.
+ray tyler Ray - rust is from the bearings getting wet.
Jerrod
+HomeTask
negative, , , the Main Tub Screw (1 Only) that holds the tub halves together
+ray tyler Ray - OK, that makes sense. Yes, the bolts do corrode or rust also. I didn't understand your message.
Great video. I see so many Samsung's with this problem. Now that I know the seal and bearing kit is only about $80 I can lower my estimate and sell this repair more often. I don't have easy access to an engine hoist or similar, could you use something to support the tub from underneath? I'm sure it would take several items to support the tub. Thanks for this detailed video.
LJ W In some of my other videos, I show that I use a small go-kart tire under the tank when unhooking the tub. I used the strap on this one but I normally do not. I usually just lift one side at a time and pull the tub out after both are unhooked. Having an extra hand at that point is helpful as well.
my front load samsung washer tries to spin at low speeds it knocks a little then when it tries to rev up it starts shaking and making a horrible knocking noise then stops and gives an error code does thst sound like a bearing, spider or both?
Need to strip down. Bad bearings and seal likely. Could also be a broken spider.
Hey Jerrod, the drum on my WF409ANW/XAA isn't turning. When I move it by hand it gets bound up, an appliance friend said it was the rear bearing. I'm wondering can the shaft also get damaged? The more I read the forum I'm wondering if I should also change the spider assembly. Your thoughts
Paul - It could be the bearings but you would have heard some noise from them before they just bound up and broke. If the machine is used infrequently then this is more likely to happen this way. The shaft is normally not damaged significantly enough to prevent the repair from being successful. Only if the bearing was allowed to slip on the shaft does that sort of damage usually happen.
The spider could be damaged or broken as well but you would know that as the drum would be sagging or have excessive up/down movement where it seems like it is just not connected to the shaft.
The repair kits are inexpensive compared to all other alternatives. Best to order a kit and take the machine apart and make the repair. Your machine also have a replaceable spider (most do not) so that is good news as the spider is under $100 also in case you need it.
Jerrod
HomeTask i just paid someone to do this except they said it is best to replace the spider and the bearings? Anyway, now that it's done when I run my washer the tub fills in the rinse section and I have to put my fabric softener in the soap section when it's on rinse. Any idea what cause that? They are reversed. Thanks in advance.
Sounds like the fill tube may have been installed incorrectly but it is really difficult to tell as I didn't think that was even possible. Can you take another stab and explaining what is actually happening?
the tray you slide out to put detergent in. When I turn the washer on and fill it the soap section with soap, it's filling in the fabric softener section in the tray. When I switch the dial to rinse only, it fill the soap section of the tray with water.
They are reversed
Therefore I would have to start it on.a rinse cycle to get my soap to go down into the machine. I think maybe the wires that connect to the inlets may have been mixed up? I have no clue!!!
Hi, what is the price point on beating and seal kit?
You can purchase the repair kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
What is the bearing part number for WF409ANR/XAA?
Curtis-
You can look up a repair kit specific to your washing machine here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Jerrod
will your kit work on my samsung wf405atpawr/a2 ?
+Troy Longtin Troy-Yes, it is either an 8193 or an 8194. 8194 will cover both but it depends upon how many bearings you have in your machine. Have you taken it apart yet? www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
have not yet taken apart. blow up diagrams show two bearings and a seal.
+Troy Longtin Troy - Yes, I saw the same but that does not necessarily cover the details as they are purposefully vague with their details around the bearings as they have had so many issues and changes to try to get it right. If you order, let me know and I will make sure you get the parts for either situation.
+Troy Longtin I ended up ordering off amazon and the seller said it would fit. I can tell immediately that the bearing for behind the stator on the tub is too large. I measured my outside diameter to about 61mm with a caliper. Do you have any recomendations or Do i still need to get the measurement of the tub bearing that is deeper?
+Troy Longtin bearing behind the stator says Z9029
I have a Samsung Model WF330ANW/XAA...Do you have a Bearing and Seal Kit for this Model?....Also ,would I use the same method on mine as you did in this video?.....BTW...Kart Racing Rocks!!...NOLA Motorsports Park Racers here.
+tinbender1960 Yes, that is our 8190 repair kit. Agree about racing. Have 2 boys that love it and have been learning life skills through it for years! Purchase kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
+tinbender1960 Also, yes, the procedures are nearly identical for your machine and the one show. You have a newer model than the one shown but the basic process is the same for removing the assembly.
Where can I order the bearing kit for my Samsung front loader?
www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
As a widow the last 2 1/2 yrs with an 83 yr old father & Wounded Warrior in CA I'm now the handywoman around the house where everything is falling apart. Grrrrr. Anyways I really appreciate the informative video. I know you were working alone so it was hard to video every small detail. Thing is when I finally got my washer apart I can see seal & bearing but i keep thinking I see you simply take off another seal directly off shaft before rmoving 1 in drum housing. Is this correct or are there 2 seals & e bearing housing on shaft between stupid spider & motor? Haven't taken those out yet afraid I mess up bearing & seal & they might still be good. I'm trying to be careful with my little resourses that's why I'm tackling this by myself. I'll admit when it comes to eletronics I technology challanged so I don't know how to send a picture on utube, do you have an email address I could send picture? Thanks again for ant & all assistance + advice
There is only one seal that you will find on the shaft next to the spider or it will be stuck in the housing (where it should be) inside the tub. It WILL NOT be below the motor. But, you do need to remove the motor if it is mounted directly to the back of the tub as there is a bearing under it that needs to be replaced. We can also put a note on the chat forum for this to see if there is someone in your area that is familiar with the repair that could help you. We have a fairly active chat forum.
How do I find the bearing & seal model numbers if I don't have a manual for my WF209ANW/XAA? Where might I find a repair manual?
If you look on this page: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx - your model number falls under an 8190 repair kit. You can also order the repair kit on that same page.
Ok well I did order the bearing kit, I just figure while I have everything out to replace the spider I might as well replace the bearing. I pray I don't have to take washer apart again. I will be working on getting the old bearing out while I'm waiting for the new. I still would like to find out how to obtain an owner/repair manual if you might know where I can obtain.
We're can I get the spider
Shifty - The bearing and seal kit can only be purchased here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
For the other parts like the spider, search appliance parts pros or repair clinic. They who I use for a lot of various parts and pieces.
wot about samsung WD-J1255C, i am in australia too
+Graham Bate - It looks like our 8193 repair kit but I am verifying that with a little research now. Do you happen to have the machine apart yet? If you can provide a couple of numbers off parts or measurements then I can make sure we are sending you the correct parts. www.yellowvanhandyman.com
+Graham Bate - OK, I finished the research and we do have the kit for this. I can be two of our kits but I can send you the larger kit which has everything in it for both. I just need you to let me know what you use out of the kit so I can verify for future orders. Order at www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair and let me know once you place the order.
thanks Home task, i pull it apart tonite and c if the drum all good and and then place my order, thanks for ur help Graham
Great. Let me know what you need and we can get it out to you. Take photos and look at any numbers off the bearings and seal. You can also measure them and we can identify the parts that way.
My front loader sounds like a helicopter is landing! Appliance guy (who doesn't work on Samsung or LG) said it was the bearing. My question is "Is it worth the $ to repair? Is this a problem that is going to continue to break...like every 2 yrs or does this repair fix the Samsung defect?" Thank you!
Yes, it is well worth is because the new ones that you pay $1000 for will need a new bearing and seal kit in a year or two! The manufacturers are making bank on this deal.
thank you
What causes the bearings to fail? My Samsung Washing machine WF419AANW/XAA is not spinning. I have Home Warranty and the service tech came out, looked at the machine and blamed it on overloading. Because of this, our claim was denied. I don't recall using it beyond its intended operating capacity.
Since I have no other choice, I'm probably going to uptake this repair, just need to do a little bit more research and find a window of time. Thanks for your video.
The seals fail but it is really a flaw in the overall design. The manufacturers want you to buy new machines every few years...