That was very detailed. More so than any other videos on the subject but I’m still not sure, is their depth to the etch? Or is there just a difference in material on a smooth surface? Can you feel the etch? You mentioned it’s like glass, so it’s just completely smooth? It’s really amazing. I don’t think I’ll be able to afford to try this for a while.
Thank you for making this video. Why should a roller with roll-up black NOT be used when inking for printing? Does it mess with the grease content or is that ink not stiff enough? I'm just wondering if I should get another fresh leather roller for printing only, or just use a rubber roller for now.
Sorry for the late reply! I didn't think to check my comments, but it's nice to see such interest! Ink is a complicated issue--but it can be kept simple. Roll up inks tend to be stiff and greasy to reinforce the image of a stone and make it more stable. Some blacks can be used for roll up and initial printing of a stone and I have many times printed detailed images with roll up ink (Graphic chemical 1803 is super stiff). A shop mix black can be used for everything--roll up or printing. It all depends what you are printing. You can use the same roller for roll up and printing--I would scrape a leather roller when switching inks. leather rollers are best because they grab and pick up stiffer ink and they pull ink out of non-image areas as you roll due to the nap of the roller (the leather hairs). I've seen lithographers just use nice, soft takach brayers for roll up and printing. If you have other questions--you can get a faster response by e-mailing me at cbartone@scad.edu or go through my website.
Nice demonstration! Just a side note from me: Lithography comes from the greek words Lithos= Stone and Grapho= Write. So lithography is meant to be on stone.
Thanks for your comment. We usually only do three minutes before we buff (that varies in accordance to what you are putting on the stone). The long time is after you buff down and put away your stone. Stones like a little time for the bonds to strengthen.
That was very detailed. More so than any other videos on the subject but I’m still not sure, is their depth to the etch? Or is there just a difference in material on a smooth surface? Can you feel the etch? You mentioned it’s like glass, so it’s just completely smooth? It’s really amazing. I don’t think I’ll be able to afford to try this for a while.
the grease which the ink adheres to penetrates the stone, so there is no depth due to removed material. Feels smooth.
Awesome!
*Well done!*
Thank you for making this video. Why should a roller with roll-up black NOT be used when inking for printing? Does it mess with the grease content or is that ink not stiff enough? I'm just wondering if I should get another fresh leather roller for printing only, or just use a rubber roller for now.
Sorry for the late reply! I didn't think to check my comments, but it's nice to see such interest! Ink is a complicated issue--but it can be kept simple. Roll up inks tend to be stiff and greasy to reinforce the image of a stone and make it more stable. Some blacks can be used for roll up and initial printing of a stone and I have many times printed detailed images with roll up ink (Graphic chemical 1803 is super stiff). A shop mix black can be used for everything--roll up or printing. It all depends what you are printing. You can use the same roller for roll up and printing--I would scrape a leather roller when switching inks. leather rollers are best because they grab and pick up stiffer ink and they pull ink out of non-image areas as you roll due to the nap of the roller (the leather hairs). I've seen lithographers just use nice, soft takach brayers for roll up and printing. If you have other questions--you can get a faster response by e-mailing me at cbartone@scad.edu or go through my website.
odd not to show the proofs to the camera.
Nice demonstration! Just a side note from me: Lithography comes from the greek words Lithos= Stone and Grapho= Write. So lithography is meant to be on stone.
Thanks! A fellow traditionalist! For me there is only stone, but I step out with the occasional posi or ball grained plate.
Its no need for the extreme time to let the gum stay on. After the etch is done I wipe IT off after 5 minutes. I've been doing this for 35 years.
Thanks for your comment. We usually only do three minutes before we buff (that varies in accordance to what you are putting on the stone). The long time is after you buff down and put away your stone. Stones like a little time for the bonds to strengthen.
I leave first layer 2-3 minutes second layer 15 minutes third layer 24h
This is why I never wanted to do lithographs . . . zinc and copper etching is simple compared to lithography. 😁
This guy is so all over the place that it's hard to understand. Maybe a script next time. Too much information