Bidean nam Bian, Central gully - My fall and comeback after eight years..
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- I went to climb this majestic and beautiful Scottish mountain via not technically very demanding but certainly steep, in some parts of the route very steep, central gully back in March 2015. It was a cold day to start with but I arrived later that morning at around 10am to Glencoe and reached the base of the gully at around 1pm ish. As far as I remember the temperature has risen a few degrees up during that day. It certainly felt warmer when I reached the gully. The weather was fine and avalanche forecast for the area was ''moderate'' I was expecting to be on the top by quick ascent in about an hour. I can't say I was young at that time anymore but I was still in my thirties, in quite a good shape physically and experienced with solo climbing at that grade. I certainly was confident despite the snow in the gully did not look like best for climbing. However I definitely was climbing in worse conditions before. I just thought it will be all right like many times in the past... well it wasn't!
After about half an hour, I was a bit above the middle of the climb, I loosened a bit of the snow I was climbing on at that moment. I fell right down to the base of the gully within a few seconds! I think it had to be about 200 metres. Snow simply wasn't well consolidated in there. I miraculously missed all the rocks on my way down and to my huge surprise I was still alive and did not suffer any obvious major injuries. I was able to stand up, walk and rescue myself without calling anybody to help me.
After the accident I have always thought I will never be back on Bidean but as time passed by I changed my mind. About two years ago I started to watch weather and snow situation in the area in winter time but I 've never felt it's the right time until February 2023. Conditions in Glencoe looked good and stable, despite February it looked more like in the spring time. I am not scared anymore. I am confident again but with the different approach to the mountain and the climb.. Coming back there with the respect and humility packed in my rucksack too:-]
It wasn't easy to film in a steep gully and I wasn't able to film the hardest parts. However I hope I managed to film a few interesting shots and some footage in great visibility from mountain tops as well. I tried to explain what I think I did wrong the first time and also tried to convey the emotions and my feelings to the viewer without being too emotional and intimate.
The whole movie content is a video - report of my story and experience only. Its not meant to be for guiding purposes but mainly to entertain you!!
MORE INFORMATION:
SCOTTISH AVALANCHE INFORMATION SERVICE:
www.sais.gov.uk/
THE CLIMBS - Two winter climbs in the video here: www.ukclimbing...
www.ukclimbing...
THE WALK - You can walk the similar route I did without climbing. Glencoe is beautiful: www.walkhighla...
MUSIC USED IN VIDEO:
Stark Goes Dark - The Whole Other
Read All Over - Nathan Moore
The Rising - Aakash Gandhi
Run Until Your Wings Grow - Late Night Feeler
ytmp3free.cc_dramatic-sound-2-youtubemp3free.org
MORE WHISKY AND THE WILD:
FACEBOOK: / jonashubalek195
INSTAGRAM: / whiskyandthewild
Well done for putting this video together. I think our attitude towards life changes over time, with experience and age, and the same goes for mountaineering (or any activities that bring considerable risks). And while pushing own limits can be very satisfying and beneficial for further development, it's not always about that.
Ti co travi dost casu v horach se asi obcas setkaji s temi "lucky moments". Pokud tam ale jdou s pokorou, uctou a respektem, tak se o ne hory postaraji...a to nemam na mysli jen šťastné navraty, ale i situace kdy se nekdo uz nevrati. Smrt je nevyhnutelna, a ta v horach muze byt vlastne ta dobra, a kind act of the mounains, instead of leaving the world in other ways....
Dekuji za krasny komentar Evo! Vazim si to a taky toho ze ses vyjadrila k tematu. Clovek by mel zvazit pro a proti a pokud jde tak se dobre pripravit ale take jit lezt s vedomim ze to nemusi vzdy dobre Dopadnout. Priznavam ze v minulosti jsem nekdy pripravu zanedbaval a riziko si tolik nepripoustel.. Musim rict ze vetsinou ty filmy delam hlavne pro svoje poteseni a pobaveni i kdyz me samozrejme pozitivni divacky ohlas tesi. U tohodle rek bych krapet intimnejsiho tematu jsem ale dvojnasob rad za mile prijeti. Tak zatim, vyletum zdar a na zdravi🙂
Neřekl bych to líp, užívej!
@@czechbikerjz Ty tez uzivej a davej majzla na ty masine🙂
Fantastic film Jonas, a great story.
Thank you.
Thank you for sharing. Avalanches are always scary, good it went OK. Wishing you a wonderful evening 👍
I took it as a final warning and I am definitely more careful. Planning process is crucial I think. Thanks.
One of your best video's, the effort going into film that must have been something else and it's much appreciated.
Thank you very much
That was a well deserved whisky and beer mate! Humility a definite requirement in the mountains - they do bite now and again
Thanks. Tastes much better if it's well deserved:-]
Superb film mate.
Thank you.
Glad you lived to tell the tale , great vlog well done
Thank you very much.
Well done for what you managed to film. It brought back fond memories of winter climbs, getting up at 3 am to do long walkins and the wonder of being on the top of the world on a glorious day and the others where you’d started off and a thaw set in and you had to come back down and that flat feeling.
It’s true that when we are younger we do feel invincible sometimes even after a big fall. It’s sometimes not until you do a bit more damage you realise you aren’t but sometimes that’s not such a bad thing and you then learn to screw the head on🏔️
Thank you. Yes.. it's important to be careful. I really think that we humans can do a great things but we are also very fragile and climbing is one of the activities where you just have to accept the risk and go out climbing well prepared and with the respect to the mountains, or for some is perhaps better to go to the gym or artificial climbing walls.. Yes we have gears, ropes, training courses, mountain guides available .. but mountains and nature will always be above it🙂
Another fabulous film.
Thank you
Amazing video Jonas 😍👌🏻👏🏻..Great that you found the courage to go back up the gully..It looked so amazing..The views in the video are incredible..I would love to do broad gully.😍..Top video mate.
Cheers
Robert
Thought there will be a little more snow but not complaining at all.. It was just enough to climb and I had a very special day on Bidean and in Glencoe. I am very grateful! Good Luck with Broad gully! Thank you.
Jonas that was an incredible video. Each step of the way, I marvelled at your fortitude and determination to not just conquer the Bidean but overcome the earlier frightening experience in 2015. I admired your ability to hide your emotions on the summit and could almost taste that slug of Jura malt as it hit the back of your throat. The views ..... what can I say ? Respect sir !
Where you skipped down from Bidean summit at the end I once tripped on my crampons and slid close to the left hand edge. I learned to walk like a duck in crampons after that.
Thank you sir! And thanks for a nice comment. Yes, work with the emotions which were real that day when I was editing the video later is a very important job. You want to keep them in there but not to make it too much.. too sweet. It's not up to me to evaluate that but up to you and other viewers. I tried my best as I always do. Cheers
@@alanrodger5934 It's some drop in there with overhangs in places in winter months. Better stay on right side😁
...no cafra...moc fakt nechybělo a už jsi tady 8.roku nebyl...😳...
...pekne jsi to zpracoval do videa 🥰 ...krásné záběry ...super počin.👍
NAZDRAVÍ
Ty horale jeden 😍
Tak tak.. Diky moc a na zdravi i tobe!
Very good video
Bravo 👏🏻
I avoid big accidents on myself too but seen one that made me think more about safety and no rush
Still worth to recommend to go for a hillwalking you just need to have eyes around and think
All the best traditionally from Glasgow
Brat Polak 😉
Wojtek
Thank you Wojtek! Greetings to Glasgow to Brat Polak🙂
Incredible story! Very inspirational 👍🙏
The front cover of the new SMC guide- Scottish Winter Climbs West, has a fantastic picture on it of Central Gully, Collies Pinnacle, and Church Door Buttress.
You were very lucky that day, and your appreciation of that luck comes across very well in this video
Thank you. Will check out for the magazine. Yes.. I was born second time that day really.. Cheers.
👍👍👌👌
😁👍🍻🥃🙂
Life is beautiful and that film is beautiful. Epic stuff Jonas.😎 Way out my comfort zone like. Not that I've ever tried something like that to be honest. Lucky man indeed 8 years ago. Brilliant stuff, Aaaaaah 🥃
Hi Kevin. We all operate on different levels in every aspect of our lives. The very important thing, in my opinion, is to try and do our very best in everything we do. But not better than that if you see what I mean..🙂 Aaaaaaah to you too🥃🍺
A fantastic climb Jonas (you had unfinished business here and archived a summit via this epic route in the end ⛰️🙌🙌)
Better conditions and patience for the right time to return paying off 🤠👍
Best regards Simon 🤠👍⛰️
Thank you. Yes, I think the preparation and planning process is very important. And yes, patience with the weather and conditions in general, especially in Scotland🙂
Díky za zážitek, krásná práce!! Znám ten pocit, pozdrav ze Staffordu. Mají tady krásné hory, we never give up!!!
Dekuju. Ne my Cesi se na horach nevzdavame! Ale bohuzel tam taky nejvic umirame😁
Well done Jonas that was a brilliant video, the music the emotion the filming all excellent. Thank you for sharing this.
My younger half brother felt similar "unbreakable" on his motorbikes but had an accident and died at 28 years old😢.
Take care and this was a fantastic film.🎉
Thank you Dave. That is sad about your brother.. I have to admit I needed some Luck to survive the young and dangerous years.
Jonas I really enjoy your videos. I have climbed at a similar level and can identify with you. Your commentaries are very thoughtful and genuine and your use of English (Scots really) is excellent. Aaaaaagh....
Thank you. Glad you mentioned my English😁 I always think roughly about what I am going to say but not every word. Then I just put words behind each other more or less spontaneously.. hope you can understand it ha ha
by bychom meli natocit neco spolu
Ahoj, no tak uvidime. Muzeme to nekdy probrat.
Well done Jonas. 👏👏👏
Life is beautiful indeed. 🏴
And cheers on it! Thank you!!
Well deserved wee Jura there Jonas! Very enjoyable to watch and some good life lessons in there!, brilliant mate! Paul
Yes, never enjoy whisky at home as much:-] Thank you
Wonderful, brought back memories of my first ever snow / ice climb almost 50 years ago
Good! I love my climbing memories too. Thanks for watching.
Life IS beautiful and so are your videos.Thank you for making them.
Trying my best. Glad you like it. Thank you🙂
Great film Jonas, enjoyed that.
Thank you
Glad you saw it through. Great lesson for all - be prepared. Life is indeed beautiful! 👏
Thank you.
8 years is a long time to wait to go back . .
Better than never🙂
@@jonashubalekwhiskyandthewild I'm glad you did .. I have a few places like this . I cannot wait more than a year .