Hey Todd, Terrific news, I just got the Wera Tool Check Plus Metric off Amazon and guess what, Wera changed that end area that you were trying to soften up to fit the larger sockets. They made the end area thinner, the larger bits now fit with plenty of room to spare. Heck, if you had another clip you could add another socket, thats how much room they made. They must have been made aware of your video and made the change. Kudos to Wera for making the change!! I followed your advice and purchased those 2 extra metric sockets. If I knew how, I would post a picture to show the change Wera made . Thank you Todd.
I have asked my local Wera Rep why the tool check plus made by a German tool company doesn't come with a 14mm socket which is a super common size used in many German cars.... he was as puzzled as i was. But in regards to your Tool Check Plus, Great modification to your kit! Might be a good idea to also put a second row of labels to indicate the relative SAE sizes. And for anyone looking to replicate this, on the new version of the Tool Check Plus, the socket rail is a bit longer and can naturally accommodate another socket size, like the 14mm (which is what i did).
so your rep doesn´t know that the german DIN (and the more international ISO that is the same up to M8) has no use for a 14mm? the tool check covers the DIN sizes for M3 up to M8, without the unused M7 but including the added 12mm (JIS and i think some older german standard us this for M8 insted of 13mm) 14mm is just not a standard size, so why add it to a compact kit that needs to fit for most people?
This is actually pretty cool something I would’ve been too lazy to ever write down and figure out all while in the field the same concept for wrenches might not be a bad idea I’d definitely return for that this is super useful though I appreciate it
M7 is a very, very unusual beast. I've come across the size once, in a socket head cap screw, but living in metric-land it's not something you'd really need to worry about. 7mm is useful for worm drive hose clamps (aka Jubilee clips), it's something I've added to kits. 11mm is useful for bleed nipples but I've never used it for anything else. I've removed it from my small kits. I use 1/2" sockets on 13mm heads when I need it really tight, equally I use 14mm spanners on the propshaft UJs of my Landie because they're a really tight fit on a 9/16ths.
@@todd.parker sorry, I could have been more clear. I think your 7mm will be useful, I'd leave that in there and not bother swapping to the 6mm. It was the 11mm for doing M7 bolts I was querying, M7 bolts are something you never see in Metriclandia, therefore I rarely have a use for an 11mm socket beyond bleed nipples. Your current selection makes sense and I think I'd leave it alone.
I don't think I've ever seen an M7 fastener, but M6 and M8 are really common - those are your 10mm and 13mm sockets. 7mm is also the standard head size for M4 bolts, so you need it if those are something you're likely to encounter.
7mm nuts are common on computer and electronics screws. I specifically bought a 7mm wera socket to fit onto my Wera Mini Tool Check Plus (from the 2024 Advent Calendar) just because I come across 7mm nuts so often.
Ha, ok I see what I messed up now. Funny I missed that, I printed these a few times to get things to line up. Probably going to swap the 7mm for a 6mm so I'll fix this too
Great red tool box you’ve made. If only I had a 3D printer. The Wera tool kit is a great product. 😁 I do love knowing the metric docket sizes that are most useful.
Love what you did. The label should have included both Metric and Imperial sizes on it. It would help with what the sockets uses in the field. I know I wouldn't remember the cross reference sizes between the two. Great video.
Great idea. As someone that works in maintenance, I feel you really need 1/4", 5/16",and 3/8" addressed in the USA. Appliances, electrical components and HVAC are covered up with these size fasteners. I'm not sure what metric (if any) serve dual purpose. You may have 1/4" built in to your ratchet or bit handle.
Dude you are criminally underrated. You answer the exact questions I ask and look for. This even happened to me with your micro edc video. WOW. This is perfect
50 years ago I knew a couple of mechanics who occasionally worked on foreign cars. They told me that frequently they could get by using SAE tools on metric cars as along as the fasteners weren't too tight. I've noticed a similar thing, that there are certain sizes where a metric and an SAE are almost identical. 5/16" socket can be useful for small items such as washing machine, but 8mm will work for that. 1/4" is useful sometimes but your bit driver is already 1/4" with no bit installed. I seem to recall that I've used 3/8" sockets occasionally, I don't know if 10mm is close enough to substitute for that. Your comparison is good for common fasteners but you will occasionally find exceptions, at least in larger sizes. I've seen situations where 3/4" and 13/16" nuts were used for the same size bolt. Recently I was working on my wife's car and the suspension component I removed used a 17mm wrench but the one I put back on came with a nut requiring an 18mm wrench. My wrench set didn't come with 18mm so I had to use 3/4" wrench.
Two suggestions: 1. Remove all the PoziDrive bits, expect maybe one PZ2 (perfect fit for IKEA furniture) and swap them for Square Bits( these are offered in the Imperial Version and are also able to be purchased on their own) 2. A shorter socket adapter. I bought a Gedore 673K and there’s a significant height difference between the supplied one.
Hey Todd, I love your videos, and appreciate the quality over quantity. The selection of sizes you landed on does not fit what I run into (for example I need 1/4” and 5/16” all the time), so I ended up with a Felo R-GO 27 kit, with a few added imperial sizes. A little chunkier than the Bit Check Plus, but more versatile. And made in Germany, not Taiwan. But love the breakdown on which metric that can cover imperial. Looking forward to future videos!
GREAT IDEA!! Though I LOVE my Icon 35 pc Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set - seems like a better ratchet setup than the Wera. And I see Klein finally came out with their 6-in-1 Impact Socket Set on a shaft in metric. All it's missing is an 11mm so I'll get that socket to complete my set. The Icon kit has a lot better bit selection and there aren't a bunch of duplicates, so for less than the base price of the Wera I'll have a fuller kit, though not a nice single thing as you've got. Alternatively, the Wera Belt4 socket is another option - I run into the 5 and 5.5mm bolts more often than you. Great video - it's the Rosetta Stone of how to deal with the two measuring systems!!
Agree on all that. The Icon bit selection is great, I just don't love the case for some reason but maybe I'll use it to refine my bits. I just picked up the Klein metric flip sockets last week and they are great. Working on a video on that as we speak.
Today I was watching your previous video on small tool sets (bit drivers) which brings back up the question of metric vs SAE. I remembered this video addressing that so I had to look it up again. I've found charts online that show what fastener sizes use similar size wrenches, also what fastener sizes use what size wrench which just like you did at the hardware store could be used to check what wrench sizes are commonly used and what wrench sizes aren't used. There is always the chance that a manufacturer will change nut sizes or something crazy like that, I've seen it lots of times. The only thing I can see missing from the discussion is the 3/8" size which I find common for things around my house or my workshop. A 10mm is close for that probably good enough for usual work. Maybe it depends on the tolerances of your sockets but a tight tolerance 14mm socket might not always fit a 9/16 fastener so I would use a 9/16 socket and let it be loose on a 14mm fastener. Otherwise your revised set looks very interesting. I would suggest printing another label to indicate which socket would be an appropriate substitution for 7/16", 1/2" and 9/16" to eliminate that little bit of guesswork or mental math.
Dont know if those are available in USA, but in Europe you can find Honiton and their Honidriver series of sockets/spanners. It is unique design which has some "funny" teeth but it seems to cover: 6/12 sided metric 6/12 sided imperial E-torx sizes Spline Square Triangle (?) Can improve/help undo used/damaged bolts All in one socket, for example: 1/4 socket of 10mm size covers: 10mm, 3/8" and E12
One easy thing you can do is replace the rapidaptor with either a Malco or Klien 1/4-5/16 flip socket. The Malco fits a little better, but the Klien can hold screwdriver bits, so to each their own, but those will cover most hose clamps and bolts on appliances in the USA. Also I think there is more rail room on the newer toolchecks.
The Wurth Double ring ratchet wrench set 32 pieces is my go-to set. I added a few items. A 1/4 150mm extension, a 1/4 to hex adapter, a hex to 1/4 adapter and it all fits in its metal case
Liked your ideas and made the changes to my Tool Ck plus. I think the configuration has changed again because my set has plenty of socket room possibly enough for me keeping the 6mm if I had another clip for the rail. Great video...really liked it
I replaced the 7mm with a 6mm , very happy with this set other wise, plan to substitute some of the bits with more hex bits, rarely use any star or flat screws, all in all I love the set as it comes in metric
@@todd.parker Although if you did not loose your bit extension (both of your videos that I saw) you could use the 1/4 bit driver for light 6mm use, maybe.
That's good to hear. It's very odd that the rail is broken into 2 sections on mine. I've tweaked my bits too but thinking I might want to go further. Personally, I like security Torx because they work for both standard and security torx versions so why not. I hardly ever run into them but it's a 2 for 1
I love this. Its an honourable thing when you invest a bit of your time to sace us a lot of time. Thank you. And just thinking about it as a side note, how inefficient are we to still be using a complicated and unnecessary system. Surely, picking one universal system would reduce so much waste and create a more efficient manufacturing process. They did it with the iPhone wire, and I think the tool industry needs a look at it.
Yeah, it's wild we have 2 systems. It's a mess. I've decided to just go metric for anything portable but keep an imperial set just in case. What a waste of money though
@@todd.parkerthe world has gone metric….the USA is the hold out and that messes up North America. It’s not just tools, it’s everything where Americans use imperial as the main system (temperature, weights, distance, etc.)
I was wondering when someone would do this as ive looked at the Wera check plus for years but since I made a slightly more versatile custom edc kit like you did with that red box of yours (which was super nice imo by the way) I had no need to spend the money. Seems like a good Idea especially since you already have most of the Wera sockets but I am surprised you've not gone with a set of sockets that work for both metric and standard. I know cheap ones can be puchased at the local auto parts stores. Ive got a set of Power Torque brand sockets that fit both metric and standard that I carry in my everyday tool kit on a simple rail. My favorite set is a Metrinch set that I bought way back in 1994 and theyre awesome. But theyre a bigger set that I want to keep together and reserve for more serious wrenching projects. Always enjoy your content!
Thanks! If you have a link to a set, I'd like to check it out. I saw some bigger 3/8 and 1/2" sets from Power Torque but if there is a 1/4 set that covers both metric and imperial with one socket, I'd check that out
@todd.parker Ya I think your correct in that Powerbuilt or Powertorque, I can't remember which brand it is, only makes their universal sockets in 3/8 drive size or bigger. I'd suggest looking for Metrinch online as imo they are the best universal socket I've ever used due to their superior lobe design instead of the spline design that's common for universal sockets now. Sadly I think you now have to find them secondhand as I don't think they make them anymore. But they did make them in 1/4 drive. Of course, it looks like you kind of already solved your needs with your hack. But I'm telling you my Metrinch set that I bought back in 1994 has been so compact and useful over the years that I would buy another one In a heartbeat if I could find one.
Great thoughts you have. I did something similar but used the bolts around my home (built in 1948) and my bicycles (all after 2000). I needed the 4mm and 5mm on my bikes, and 9mm and 13MM on some bolts in my basement.. Thought about getting individual Makita or Wera sockets but ended getting a rack from Harbor Freight, I got 10 sockets for $10.
Thanks for another great video!! Good thing I got the imperial version then I just got the metric 9 piece belt to clip on the side of my bag. It only goes up to 13 though so I could probably just drop the 5.5 and add the 14 in i guess. Space shouldnt be an issue on that.
1/4 inch drive is sub optimal. What you want is the 3/8 Metrinch socket set that covers both Metric and Imperial. Got one on ebay. Pair these with a flex head socket wrench and you are golden.
I agree that 3/8 is way stronger and I have a set for larger bolts or when more torque is needed but in a small EDC style kit, staying in the 1/4" range is much more reasonable from a size/weight perspective. Got a link for that set?
9/16“ is 14.29mm. So to be sure that any 3/8“ bolt works, i would swap our the 14 for a 9/16“. That’s about the same difference as between the 13mm and the 1/2“(12.7mm).
I did and have seen some cool mods for it. Just hard for me to spend the $55 for that, even on sale since I have so much other stuff. Hoping someone will make a 3D printed model that lets you add you own tools!
I just got the metric tool-check plus in the mail and my first thought was everyone who reviews this item on youtube must have small/medium hands because I have large hands and the set looks like a lego set in my hands.
in most metric countries M7 is very uncommon so you could skip the 11mm, the 14mm also is uncommon but is used in the Japanese Industrial Standard for (JIS) for M10, so it might be good when working on Japanese sourced cars, thanks for another really informative video.
In most case it's DIN standard or ISO. DIN shouldn't be used anymore, but no one cares! Both are identical execpt for 4 size (M10, M12, M14 and M22) M7 isn't DIN or ISO. 7mm, 11mm, 12mm and 14mm aren't DIN or ISO and are really uncommon. Well I did use 12mm quite a lot because of one screw manufacturer for metal roofing... I still encounter some 15mm in old stuff The most common size are 8mm, 10mm and 13mm. Bigger than that mostly 17mm, 19mm and 22mm (only DIN. 16mm, 18mm and 21mm are ISO) And for smal stuff, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm and 7mm. But most small screws are phillips pozidriv allen or torx. So, long story short: 8mm,10mm, 13mm are enough for an EDC. PS: I'm in France.
How did you make the custom socket/bits case shown in the beginning of the video? Looks like a 3D printed case. Can you provide a link to the 3D model?
Great video Todd! I get the 5 most essential in terms of fitting common bolts (thanks for figuring that out!), and that 7mm and 12mm are along for the ride. Which one of those is essential? (Title says 6 essential). Note: the Klein and Vaco $20 metric flip socket sets have all your final list of 7 except the 11mm which can be added for $5 or so. The $14 Makita metric set has all your finalists except for the 14mm which can be added for $5 or so.
Good point, I just got rid of the number since that may be confusing. I found 5 key sizes from my hardware store test (8, 10, 12, 13, 14) and included the 12mm since a lot of Japanese vehicles use that but let's keep it simple. I'm actually working on a video now on the Klein metric flip sockets (they're great). I have the Makita set, do wish it had the 14mm especially since the rubber case is so minimal.
@@todd.parker Once again, tremendous job on the video! The knowledge that the 8, 10, 11, 13 and 14mm sockets will fit most common metric and imperial bolts is true wisdom. TH-cam at its finest.
this is a great video; however, I do disagree you on using metric sockets on SAE bolts. it would depend on the situation whether it is same to use a metric socket on a SAE Fastener. in a low torque situation where the bolt is just had tight, then yes, it is probably safe. in a high torque situation, then it is possible that you will damage the fastener by rounding off the corners. example, the 1/2 inch bolt, should measure .500 across the flats, but a 1/2 in wrench has a gap of around .015 inch more. so, the gap on the wrench is .515 in size. this is to facilitate being able to take the wrench on and off the fastener easier. the added gap to the wrench/socket varies with the quality of tools you are using. low end tools like the Harbor Freight Pittsburg, and big box store brands like Allied and All Trade are all over the place with their gap sizes and should be avoided. mid-grade lines, like Harbor Freight Quin, Husky, Craftsman, Kobalt are all decent of most work and are close to B grade industry standards for their gaps. high end sockets and wrenches are almost on the tighter end of the clearance specs. brands like Tekton, Snap-On, MAC, Matco, SK, and Cornwell and Harbor Freight Icon to some extent, are vastly superior to both low end and mid-tier tools. and the cost are much higher. the reason i bring this up is, say you have a 5/16 coarse thread bolt with a 9/16 head that needs to be removed, and it has been torqued to the proper specifications usually around 25Lfb of torque. if you use a cheap 13 mm socket or wrench with a loose fitting on it you will damage the fastener and round off the corners, but if it is a high-end tool, it may work without issue, simply because the gap on the tool is closer in tolerance. so, it really depends on the tool and the situation and the quality of the tools you are using whether it is safe to use a metric tool and a SAE bolt when it is torqued to the proper specification.
Great info, thanks. I figure that if you stick to 1/4” sockets with a small rachet, those are pretty low torque so you can probably get away with a slightly less than perfect fit but that all makes sense
Yup if you’re using high torque you will definitely mess up the bolt. The ratchet that comes with the kit is not a heavy duty ratchet. 😁 Great point and info.
A lot of bicycles use a 15mm wrench for the axels, pedals, and stem bolts. Due to open clearance on most bikes, it could be handled with a Knipex pliers wrench or a Wera Joker Medium. wrench.
This is correct. European uses DIN standard and which doesn't use the 14mm and instead uses the 13mm. For DIN M10 you need a 17mm and JIS M10 you use a 14mm. You need the 13mm if you American and European cars. I honestly have never used a 11mm socket ever. 11mm is an M7 bolt, which DIN doesn't have. It only exists in JIS and it's rarely used. They give you one in a socket set. While I don't take them out these sets, I remove the 11mm out of any set of hand wrench sets I own. Don't need it. Keep in mind their are 2 different style heads for bolts. Hex and Flanged. In the case of an M8 is 12mm for flanged and 13mm for Hex. Where this gets messed up in the USA, you need to buy JIS bolts from the dealership. You'll find most metric hardware sold at hardware stores are DIN (now ISO).
In the UK, where we almost exclusively use metric these days, you will see M5 M6 M8 and M12 a lot. M10 isn't that common and M7 almost non existent, I don't think I have ever seen them for sale in a "normal" shop and tap/die sets always skip it. What is odd though is that M8 bolts often come with a 14mm head rather than the standard 13mm. This seems especially common for M8 bolts on imported (cheap) machinery.
while the concept sounds smart, in the real world there are super tight alloy bolts with weak metal that risk stripping the corners especially if the socket is not exact. i would stick with the exact size for that reason.
This works until you are trying to remove a badly worn nut and really needs the exact bit. Edit: of course, if this is part of a kit with other tools, can carry that tiny knipex as a back up for these situations.
Yeah, I did this research as part of my toolbag organization to see what I really needed to carry and I have a pair of Knipex pliers wrenches and Cobras on me if needed. If you torquing on a big, rusty bolt you need a 3/8 or 1/2 rachet set or set of wrenches anyway. The ToolCheck Plus is for lighter duty projects imo.
I find 12mm is super common when working on metric cars. I'm surprised it didn't make the cut, but 13mm nearly matches 1/2", which is common on American cars. Cant fit them all in this kit I guess
@@todd.parker Can confirm, just used a 12mm socket on my 4Runner. Replaced the skid plate and two of those bolts are 12mm. I would say 80% of the car is 10mm, but there are a few 11mm and 12mm bolts too
I have been looking a lot to find what are the most used sockets for the different car manufacturers and could not find this info even in forums. Thanks guys
for a example: i do use the smallest sizes for my solar, battery sound system builds. so i do look for there inclusion. :) but fair enough. interesting to learn of what metric sizes could be used for imperial.
Yeah all depends on what you work on. Seems the consensus 7mm isn't super common so I'm thinking of swapping that with the 6mm but curious what smaller sizes you run into on solar since I do sola stuff too
@@todd.parker yea it does depend on what your doing. motors feels more popular market. my stuff is not typical. so hard to answer. I do use a fair amount of m3 and m4 bolts and some m5. then m6 and m8 and m10 for bus bars. smaller sizes mainly for panel mount sockets and mounting things in cases.
Hi @Todd.parker, Jaahwn here! I'm the dude that designed that red case you featured in a decent bit of your video. Do you mind linking either my thingiverse or makerworld pages in your description since you used my design for about 1/4 of your video? Honestly before someone mentioned this morning that my case was included in this video, I had no idea that the Tool-Check existed! Great comprehensive video, I definitely will be considering getting this kit to compare/supplement/replace the ICON set. Cheers man!
Hey! Glad you reached out. I tried contacting you on Reddit to chat about this. I purposely didn’t make a big deal of the kit in this video because I’m hoping to do a video when the meme kit with sockets launches so I can show your designs as alternatives. In the meantime, I added a link to your 3D files and the Reddit thread in case people are curious. The ToolCheck Plus is really nice but your designs are slick. You probably noticed I modded mine to fit a small driver handle and other stuff but did it with a Dremel because I’m not great with 3D modeling. What’s the best way to get in touch?
Yeah, if there is too much play they will slip. I figure with a 1/4" set you're not doing high torque work on bolts so you can probably get away with a bit less of a perfect fit
US Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act in 1975...and almost 50 years later, lost souls still work with 'Imperial'. "Long live the Empire!" and "May God save the Queen."
Hey Todd, Terrific news, I just got the Wera Tool Check Plus Metric off Amazon and guess what, Wera changed that end area that you were trying to soften up to fit the larger sockets. They made the end area thinner, the larger bits now fit with plenty of room to spare. Heck, if you had another clip you could add another socket, thats how much room they made. They must have been made aware of your video and made the change. Kudos to Wera for making the change!! I followed your advice and purchased those 2 extra metric sockets. If I knew how, I would post a picture to show the change Wera made . Thank you Todd.
Great to hear. I dunno why it had 2 separate rails and that wasted space. I hear they got rid of the lock on the bit tray too
I have asked my local Wera Rep why the tool check plus made by a German tool company doesn't come with a 14mm socket which is a super common size used in many German cars.... he was as puzzled as i was.
But in regards to your Tool Check Plus, Great modification to your kit! Might be a good idea to also put a second row of labels to indicate the relative SAE sizes.
And for anyone looking to replicate this, on the new version of the Tool Check Plus, the socket rail is a bit longer and can naturally accommodate another socket size, like the 14mm (which is what i did).
so your rep doesn´t know that the german DIN (and the more international ISO that is the same up to M8) has no use for a 14mm?
the tool check covers the DIN sizes for M3 up to M8, without the unused M7 but including the added 12mm (JIS and i think some older german standard us this for M8 insted of 13mm)
14mm is just not a standard size, so why add it to a compact kit that needs to fit for most people?
This is actually pretty cool something I would’ve been too lazy to ever write down and figure out all while in the field the same concept for wrenches might not be a bad idea I’d definitely return for that this is super useful though I appreciate it
I dumped the 5.5 mm socket on my tool check and added the 14 mm. Thank you for the video about adding the 11 mm
M7 is a very, very unusual beast. I've come across the size once, in a socket head cap screw, but living in metric-land it's not something you'd really need to worry about.
7mm is useful for worm drive hose clamps (aka Jubilee clips), it's something I've added to kits.
11mm is useful for bleed nipples but I've never used it for anything else. I've removed it from my small kits.
I use 1/2" sockets on 13mm heads when I need it really tight, equally I use 14mm spanners on the propshaft UJs of my Landie because they're a really tight fit on a 9/16ths.
Thanks for the input. Debating if I should swap in the 6mm for the 7 if that's more common.
@@todd.parker sorry, I could have been more clear.
I think your 7mm will be useful, I'd leave that in there and not bother swapping to the 6mm.
It was the 11mm for doing M7 bolts I was querying, M7 bolts are something you never see in Metriclandia, therefore I rarely have a use for an 11mm socket beyond bleed nipples.
Your current selection makes sense and I think I'd leave it alone.
I don't think I've ever seen an M7 fastener, but M6 and M8 are really common - those are your 10mm and 13mm sockets. 7mm is also the standard head size for M4 bolts, so you need it if those are something you're likely to encounter.
@@drengskap Agreed.
I actually came across my second ever M7 fastner over the weekend helping a friend put some shelves up. Bonkers design of fixing.
7mm nuts are common on computer and electronics screws. I specifically bought a 7mm wera socket to fit onto my Wera Mini Tool Check Plus (from the 2024 Advent Calendar) just because I come across 7mm nuts so often.
Just brilliant!
The 11m label cannot be unseen 😂
Wonder if it will also fit an 11y bolt head.
Ha, ok I see what I messed up now. Funny I missed that, I printed these a few times to get things to line up. Probably going to swap the 7mm for a 6mm so I'll fix this too
I have never used a 6mm. But I have used a 7mm a lot for interior work.
Totally not intentional so you engage in the comments. Oh crap, now I've done it too.
It is wise to always add a small imperfection to an otherwise perfect work.
This is awesome! I was always thinking of this too! So many people carry so much of these and only certain ones used more. You nailed it!!
Thanks, I appreciate it
Great red tool box you’ve made. If only I had a 3D printer. The Wera tool kit is a great product. 😁 I do love knowing the metric docket sizes that are most useful.
Love what you did. The label should have included both Metric and Imperial sizes on it. It would help with what the sockets uses in the field. I know I wouldn't remember the cross reference sizes between the two. Great video.
Great idea. As someone that works in maintenance, I feel you really need 1/4", 5/16",and 3/8" addressed in the USA. Appliances, electrical components
and HVAC are covered up with these size fasteners. I'm not sure what metric (if any) serve dual purpose. You may have 1/4" built in to your ratchet or bit handle.
U can use 8mm for 5/16” & 10mm for ⅜”. For the ¼” I don’t think any thing replace it in Metric.
@@shark24926mm
I wish Klein would do a FlipSocket Set of Metric/SAE based off your work here
Really smart. Wera will need to release the Todd Parker Edition!
Is there a video on the red box u made with the full set of 1/4?
Would like to know more about the red box as well. Was it 3d printed?
This is great! Thanks so much for researching the common sizes!
You’re very welcome. Been so curious about this forever so I figured I’d do some science
Dude you are criminally underrated. You answer the exact questions I ask and look for. This even happened to me with your micro edc video. WOW. This is perfect
That's great to hear, thanks. I make videos I wished existed so seems there are others out there asking the same questions
A tool check kit has been on my list for years but I’ve never quite needed it but maybe someday!
It’s really great
You don’t need it - you want it do it - I did - it’s fun just to look at 😅
@@simonpickering2665 I put in on the Christmas wish list this year so maybe the Mrs. will get me the set haha
Thanks for sharing, would love to see an update video based on any changes you make from the comment section. Thanks again, this is great!
50 years ago I knew a couple of mechanics who occasionally worked on foreign cars. They told me that frequently they could get by using SAE tools on metric cars as along as the fasteners weren't too tight. I've noticed a similar thing, that there are certain sizes where a metric and an SAE are almost identical.
5/16" socket can be useful for small items such as washing machine, but 8mm will work for that. 1/4" is useful sometimes but your bit driver is already 1/4" with no bit installed. I seem to recall that I've used 3/8" sockets occasionally, I don't know if 10mm is close enough to substitute for that.
Your comparison is good for common fasteners but you will occasionally find exceptions, at least in larger sizes. I've seen situations where 3/4" and 13/16" nuts were used for the same size bolt. Recently I was working on my wife's car and the suspension component I removed used a 17mm wrench but the one I put back on came with a nut requiring an 18mm wrench. My wrench set didn't come with 18mm so I had to use 3/4" wrench.
Two suggestions:
1. Remove all the PoziDrive bits, expect maybe one PZ2 (perfect fit for IKEA furniture) and swap them for Square Bits( these are offered in the Imperial Version and are also able to be purchased on their own)
2. A shorter socket adapter. I bought a Gedore 673K and there’s a significant height difference between the supplied one.
Hey Todd, I love your videos, and appreciate the quality over quantity.
The selection of sizes you landed on does not fit what I run into (for example I need 1/4” and 5/16” all the time), so I ended up with a Felo R-GO 27 kit, with a few added imperial sizes. A little chunkier than the Bit Check Plus, but more versatile. And made in Germany, not Taiwan.
But love the breakdown on which metric that can cover imperial.
Looking forward to future videos!
Excellent upgrade. I’d love to seen your custom clamshell box updated with the new socket lineup
GREAT IDEA!! Though I LOVE my Icon 35 pc Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set - seems like a better ratchet setup than the Wera. And I see Klein finally came out with their 6-in-1 Impact Socket Set on a shaft in metric. All it's missing is an 11mm so I'll get that socket to complete my set.
The Icon kit has a lot better bit selection and there aren't a bunch of duplicates, so for less than the base price of the Wera I'll have a fuller kit, though not a nice single thing as you've got.
Alternatively, the Wera Belt4 socket is another option - I run into the 5 and 5.5mm bolts more often than you.
Great video - it's the Rosetta Stone of how to deal with the two measuring systems!!
Agree on all that. The Icon bit selection is great, I just don't love the case for some reason but maybe I'll use it to refine my bits. I just picked up the Klein metric flip sockets last week and they are great. Working on a video on that as we speak.
Today I was watching your previous video on small tool sets (bit drivers) which brings back up the question of metric vs SAE. I remembered this video addressing that so I had to look it up again. I've found charts online that show what fastener sizes use similar size wrenches, also what fastener sizes use what size wrench which just like you did at the hardware store could be used to check what wrench sizes are commonly used and what wrench sizes aren't used. There is always the chance that a manufacturer will change nut sizes or something crazy like that, I've seen it lots of times. The only thing I can see missing from the discussion is the 3/8" size which I find common for things around my house or my workshop. A 10mm is close for that probably good enough for usual work.
Maybe it depends on the tolerances of your sockets but a tight tolerance 14mm socket might not always fit a 9/16 fastener so I would use a 9/16 socket and let it be loose on a 14mm fastener. Otherwise your revised set looks very interesting. I would suggest printing another label to indicate which socket would be
an appropriate substitution for 7/16", 1/2" and 9/16" to eliminate that little bit of guesswork or mental math.
You can do screws requiring 6mm socket using 1/4in bit driver.
Dont know if those are available in USA, but in Europe you can find Honiton and their Honidriver series of sockets/spanners.
It is unique design which has some "funny" teeth but it seems to cover:
6/12 sided metric
6/12 sided imperial
E-torx sizes
Spline
Square
Triangle (?)
Can improve/help undo used/damaged bolts
All in one socket, for example:
1/4 socket of 10mm size covers: 10mm, 3/8" and E12
One easy thing you can do is replace the rapidaptor with either a Malco or Klien 1/4-5/16 flip socket. The Malco fits a little better, but the Klien can hold screwdriver bits, so to each their own, but those will cover most hose clamps and bolts on appliances in the USA. Also I think there is more rail room on the newer toolchecks.
The Wurth Double ring ratchet wrench set 32 pieces is my go-to set. I added a few items. A 1/4 150mm extension, a 1/4 to hex adapter, a hex to 1/4 adapter and it all fits in its metal case
That looks like a nice set, ticks all the boxes especially with your additions
Thanks so much for this space saving tip. 🙏 I’m thinking of just going with metric and an angle grinder for converting all bolt heads to metric! 😁👍
Glad it was helpful!
Liked your ideas and made the changes to my Tool Ck plus. I think the configuration has changed again because my set has plenty of socket room possibly enough for me keeping the 6mm if I had another clip for the rail. Great video...really liked it
I replaced the 7mm with a 6mm , very happy with this set other wise, plan to substitute some of the bits with more hex bits, rarely use any star or flat screws, all in all I love the set as it comes in metric
Yeah, seeing lots of comments about how rare 7mm is. Might swap the 6mm in as it will also give me more wiggle room.
@@todd.parker Although if you did not loose your bit extension (both of your videos that I saw) you could use the 1/4 bit driver for light 6mm use, maybe.
The 1/4 hex drive is 6.35mm, there is no need for the 6mm socket
Great suggestion, I ordered them immediately. I’ve found you can never have too many 10mm and 13mm. I ordered both of these in deep sockets as well.
Good choice!
The newer tool Check got a single rail for all the sockets. Ive ditched the Security torx for some smaller flat heads and 2, 2,5mm and 10mm hex.
That's good to hear. It's very odd that the rail is broken into 2 sections on mine. I've tweaked my bits too but thinking I might want to go further. Personally, I like security Torx because they work for both standard and security torx versions so why not. I hardly ever run into them but it's a 2 for 1
I love this. Its an honourable thing when you invest a bit of your time to sace us a lot of time. Thank you. And just thinking about it as a side note, how inefficient are we to still be using a complicated and unnecessary system. Surely, picking one universal system would reduce so much waste and create a more efficient manufacturing process. They did it with the iPhone wire, and I think the tool industry needs a look at it.
Yeah, it's wild we have 2 systems. It's a mess. I've decided to just go metric for anything portable but keep an imperial set just in case. What a waste of money though
@@todd.parkerthe world has gone metric….the USA is the hold out and that messes up North America. It’s not just tools, it’s everything where Americans use imperial as the main system (temperature, weights, distance, etc.)
I was wondering when someone would do this as ive looked at the Wera check plus for years but since I made a slightly more versatile custom edc kit like you did with that red box of yours (which was super nice imo by the way) I had no need to spend the money. Seems like a good Idea especially since you already have most of the Wera sockets but I am surprised you've not gone with a set of sockets that work for both metric and standard. I know cheap ones can be puchased at the local auto parts stores. Ive got a set of Power Torque brand sockets that fit both metric and standard that I carry in my everyday tool kit on a simple rail. My favorite set is a Metrinch set that I bought way back in 1994 and theyre awesome. But theyre a bigger set that I want to keep together and reserve for more serious wrenching projects. Always enjoy your content!
Thanks! If you have a link to a set, I'd like to check it out. I saw some bigger 3/8 and 1/2" sets from Power Torque but if there is a 1/4 set that covers both metric and imperial with one socket, I'd check that out
@todd.parker Ya I think your correct in that Powerbuilt or Powertorque, I can't remember which brand it is, only makes their universal sockets in 3/8 drive size or bigger. I'd suggest looking for Metrinch online as imo they are the best universal socket I've ever used due to their superior lobe design instead of the spline design that's common for universal sockets now. Sadly I think you now have to find them secondhand as I don't think they make them anymore. But they did make them in 1/4 drive. Of course, it looks like you kind of already solved your needs with your hack. But I'm telling you my Metrinch set that I bought back in 1994 has been so compact and useful over the years that I would buy another one In a heartbeat if I could find one.
Todd what works for 3/8"
Great thoughts you have. I did something similar but used the bolts around my home (built in 1948) and my bicycles (all after 2000). I needed the 4mm and 5mm on my bikes, and 9mm and 13MM on some bolts in my basement.. Thought about getting individual Makita or Wera sockets but ended getting a rack from Harbor Freight, I got 10 sockets for $10.
Yeah that’s the best way to do it. What do *you* actually need with your stuff. Hard to beat the HF socket prices. As you see, I have a few Quinn sets
I did the same thing but for the hex bits rather that for the sockets. I have a full set of metric, imperial and torx
How did you get those individual sockets out of that packaging? It was a chore for me. I know there should be an easier way.
Yeah, it’s tough!
Thanks for another great video!! Good thing I got the imperial version then I just got the metric 9 piece belt to clip on the side of my bag. It only goes up to 13 though so I could probably just drop the 5.5 and add the 14 in i guess. Space shouldnt be an issue on that.
1/4 inch drive is sub optimal. What you want is the 3/8 Metrinch socket set that covers both Metric and Imperial. Got one on ebay. Pair these with a flex head socket wrench and you are golden.
I agree that 3/8 is way stronger and I have a set for larger bolts or when more torque is needed but in a small EDC style kit, staying in the 1/4" range is much more reasonable from a size/weight perspective. Got a link for that set?
9/16“ is 14.29mm. So to be sure that any 3/8“ bolt works, i would swap our the 14 for a 9/16“. That’s about the same difference as between the 13mm and the 1/2“(12.7mm).
this is a life saver ... good job
I would get rid of the 7,11, and 13. Only sizes needed are 10, 12, and 14....and occasionally 8.
Excellent, thank you.
did you get a chance to check out the new "mini" tool check? (its in the 2024 advent calendar)
I did and have seen some cool mods for it. Just hard for me to spend the $55 for that, even on sale since I have so much other stuff. Hoping someone will make a 3D printed model that lets you add you own tools!
In the description both individual socket affiliate links are labeled as 11mm. The links are correct just the label needs to be adjusted to 8
Oops, thanks, fixed it.
A 1/4" fractional socket is very useful if you ever dealing with home appliances, especially older ones.
I just got the metric tool-check plus in the mail and my first thought was everyone who reviews this item on youtube must have small/medium hands because I have large hands and the set looks like a lego set in my hands.
Ha, yeah but I think that’s the point. It’s so small you can bring it anywhere
Hey does somebody sell that red Hom made case?
in most metric countries M7 is very uncommon so you could skip the 11mm, the 14mm also is uncommon but is used in the Japanese Industrial Standard for (JIS) for M10, so it might be good when working on Japanese sourced cars, thanks for another really informative video.
In most case it's DIN standard or ISO.
DIN shouldn't be used anymore, but no one cares!
Both are identical execpt for 4 size (M10, M12, M14 and M22)
M7 isn't DIN or ISO.
7mm, 11mm, 12mm and 14mm aren't DIN or ISO and are really uncommon. Well I did use 12mm quite a lot because of one screw manufacturer for metal roofing...
I still encounter some 15mm in old stuff
The most common size are 8mm, 10mm and 13mm.
Bigger than that mostly 17mm, 19mm and 22mm (only DIN. 16mm, 18mm and 21mm are ISO)
And for smal stuff, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm and 7mm. But most small screws are phillips pozidriv allen or torx.
So, long story short: 8mm,10mm, 13mm are enough for an EDC.
PS: I'm in France.
Toyota's use 8,10,12,14
Nice setup . Refuse to purchase laser etched tools !
Is there a link to the red toolkit you made? Is it 3d printed?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6695481
Brilliant! This made me subscribe!
Welcome aboard!
How did you make the custom socket/bits case shown in the beginning of the video? Looks like a 3D printed case. Can you provide a link to the 3D model?
There’s a guy on Reddit who posted a few version of this. www.reddit.com/r/harborfreight/s/l3bycWKvB5
It looks like the "ICAN'T Tool Box" model from Jaahwn found on the maker world website. It's a remix for a popular Harbor freight icon box set.
JIS Standard (Japanese cars and bikes) uses 12mm while DIN uses 13mm for 8mm bolt
Great video Todd! I get the 5 most essential in terms of fitting common bolts (thanks for figuring that out!), and that 7mm and 12mm are along for the ride. Which one of those is essential? (Title says 6 essential).
Note: the Klein and Vaco $20 metric flip socket sets have all your final list of 7 except the 11mm which can be added for $5 or so. The $14 Makita metric set has all your finalists except for the 14mm which can be added for $5 or so.
Good point, I just got rid of the number since that may be confusing. I found 5 key sizes from my hardware store test (8, 10, 12, 13, 14) and included the 12mm since a lot of Japanese vehicles use that but let's keep it simple. I'm actually working on a video now on the Klein metric flip sockets (they're great). I have the Makita set, do wish it had the 14mm especially since the rubber case is so minimal.
@@todd.parker Once again, tremendous job on the video! The knowledge that the 8, 10, 11, 13 and 14mm sockets will fit most common metric and imperial bolts is true wisdom. TH-cam at its finest.
Awesome content - thank you! 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great idea
this is a great video; however, I do disagree you on using metric sockets on SAE bolts. it would depend on the situation whether it is same to use a metric socket on a SAE Fastener. in a low torque situation where the bolt is just had tight, then yes, it is probably safe. in a high torque situation, then it is possible that you will damage the fastener by rounding off the corners. example, the 1/2 inch bolt, should measure .500 across the flats, but a 1/2 in wrench has a gap of around .015 inch more. so, the gap on the wrench is .515 in size. this is to facilitate being able to take the wrench on and off the fastener easier. the added gap to the wrench/socket varies with the quality of tools you are using. low end tools like the Harbor Freight Pittsburg, and big box store brands like Allied and All Trade are all over the place with their gap sizes and should be avoided. mid-grade lines, like Harbor Freight Quin, Husky, Craftsman, Kobalt are all decent of most work and are close to B grade industry standards for their gaps. high end sockets and wrenches are almost on the tighter end of the clearance specs. brands like Tekton, Snap-On, MAC, Matco, SK, and Cornwell and Harbor Freight Icon to some extent, are vastly superior to both low end and mid-tier tools. and the cost are much higher. the reason i bring this up is, say you have a 5/16 coarse thread bolt with a 9/16 head that needs to be removed, and it has been torqued to the proper specifications usually around 25Lfb of torque. if you use a cheap 13 mm socket or wrench with a loose fitting on it you will damage the fastener and round off the corners, but if it is a high-end tool, it may work without issue, simply because the gap on the tool is closer in tolerance. so, it really depends on the tool and the situation and the quality of the tools you are using whether it is safe to use a metric tool and a SAE bolt when it is torqued to the proper specification.
Great info, thanks. I figure that if you stick to 1/4” sockets with a small rachet, those are pretty low torque so you can probably get away with a slightly less than perfect fit but that all makes sense
Yup if you’re using high torque you will definitely mess up the bolt. The ratchet that comes with the kit is not a heavy duty ratchet. 😁 Great point and info.
I have never in my life heard of somebody using a M7 screw. And I’m a mechanical engineer over here in Europe.
0:55 "the gauntlet"
Probably "the gamut"
You don't want to be running the gauntlet!
A lot of bicycles use a 15mm wrench for the axels, pedals, and stem bolts. Due to open clearance on most bikes, it could be handled with a Knipex pliers wrench or a Wera Joker Medium. wrench.
If you find a way to use a socket on pedals, let me know. I think you mean crank arm bolts.
@@ngarber nope, I mean pedals and I didn’t suggest using a socket, that obviously would not work.
@@jermlac Just asking because the subject of this video was sockets.
You missed a m. On the 11mm label.
@@kevinthomson6324 nope that one is 11 meters
You link to the 8mm but you recommend the 14 mm in the video?
Whoops. Fixed it, thanks. Wera 14mm socket, 1/4" - amzn.to/4eESjsF
this is great content
if you drive a toyota or honda powersport product you need a 8,10,12,14,and JIS bits
This is correct. European uses DIN standard and which doesn't use the 14mm and instead uses the 13mm. For DIN M10 you need a 17mm and JIS M10 you use a 14mm. You need the 13mm if you American and European cars. I honestly have never used a 11mm socket ever. 11mm is an M7 bolt, which DIN doesn't have. It only exists in JIS and it's rarely used. They give you one in a socket set. While I don't take them out these sets, I remove the 11mm out of any set of hand wrench sets I own. Don't need it. Keep in mind their are 2 different style heads for bolts. Hex and Flanged. In the case of an M8 is 12mm for flanged and 13mm for Hex. Where this gets messed up in the USA, you need to buy JIS bolts from the dealership. You'll find most metric hardware sold at hardware stores are DIN (now ISO).
I clicked on this video because the thumbnail looked like James Hoffman, but I like tools as much as coffee so it's a win
Ha, I like James’ videos, good stuff
In the UK, where we almost exclusively use metric these days, you will see M5 M6 M8 and M12 a lot. M10 isn't that common and M7 almost non existent, I don't think I have ever seen them for sale in a "normal" shop and tap/die sets always skip it.
What is odd though is that M8 bolts often come with a 14mm head rather than the standard 13mm. This seems especially common for M8 bolts on imported (cheap) machinery.
while the concept sounds smart, in the real world there are super tight alloy bolts with weak metal that risk stripping the corners especially if the socket is not exact. i would stick with the exact size for that reason.
You can leave the M7 out, not common at all.
Many hose clamps use M7
Forget the 11mm but keep the 7mm for hose clamps, for UK that is.
Yeah the only time i use a 11mm is for brake line fittings and then you require a spanner, not a socket
There are several M7 bolts in my civic, so it's a keep to me.
@@DavurBeder*7mm that is.
How about ditching the 11mm for a second 10mm? If you lose one (as it happens…) you still have another one 😉
Heh, genius!
I live in a metric country never seen a M11 bolt
It will be a happy day when we only run metric!
1000%
Does anyone elses tool check constantly open up ?
Unfortunately newer ones do not come with closing mechanism as shown on video
Ah, that’s too bad
If you drive a Ford, youre going to want to hang on to that 5.5mm.
This works until you are trying to remove a badly worn nut and really needs the exact bit. Edit: of course, if this is part of a kit with other tools, can carry that tiny knipex as a back up for these situations.
Yeah, I did this research as part of my toolbag organization to see what I really needed to carry and I have a pair of Knipex pliers wrenches and Cobras on me if needed. If you torquing on a big, rusty bolt you need a 3/8 or 1/2 rachet set or set of wrenches anyway. The ToolCheck Plus is for lighter duty projects imo.
I find 12mm is super common when working on metric cars. I'm surprised it didn't make the cut, but 13mm nearly matches 1/2", which is common on American cars. Cant fit them all in this kit I guess
the 12 is there
Yep, 12mm is there for that very reason. Heard they are very popular on Japanese vehicles especially
@@todd.parker Can confirm, just used a 12mm socket on my 4Runner. Replaced the skid plate and two of those bolts are 12mm. I would say 80% of the car is 10mm, but there are a few 11mm and 12mm bolts too
German cars almost never use 12mm sockets. Japanese cars almost never use 13mm
I have been looking a lot to find what are the most used sockets for the different car manufacturers and could not find this info even in forums. Thanks guys
I don't even buy sae sockets and wrenches any more- I never use them.
for a example: i do use the smallest sizes for my solar, battery sound system builds. so i do look for there inclusion. :) but fair enough. interesting to learn of what metric sizes could be used for imperial.
Yeah all depends on what you work on. Seems the consensus 7mm isn't super common so I'm thinking of swapping that with the 6mm but curious what smaller sizes you run into on solar since I do sola stuff too
@@todd.parker yea it does depend on what your doing. motors feels more popular market. my stuff is not typical. so hard to answer. I do use a fair amount of m3 and m4 bolts and some m5. then m6 and m8 and m10 for bus bars. smaller sizes mainly for panel mount sockets and mounting things in cases.
push the algor. :)
Score one for Metric 😅
100%
Hi @Todd.parker, Jaahwn here! I'm the dude that designed that red case you featured in a decent bit of your video. Do you mind linking either my thingiverse or makerworld pages in your description since you used my design for about 1/4 of your video?
Honestly before someone mentioned this morning that my case was included in this video, I had no idea that the Tool-Check existed! Great comprehensive video, I definitely will be considering getting this kit to compare/supplement/replace the ICON set.
Cheers man!
Hey! Glad you reached out. I tried contacting you on Reddit to chat about this.
I purposely didn’t make a big deal of the kit in this video because I’m hoping to do a video when the meme kit with sockets launches so I can show your designs as alternatives. In the meantime, I added a link to your 3D files and the Reddit thread in case people are curious.
The ToolCheck Plus is really nice but your designs are slick. You probably noticed I modded mine to fit a small driver handle and other stuff but did it with a Dremel because I’m not great with 3D modeling. What’s the best way to get in touch?
I bet there is a standard and metric system only for the tool company's to make more money.
No inch outside of the US. Even simpler, cheaper.
I'm shocked you still have a 10mm socket. I thought they were like a unicorn or a leprechaun.
If you buy them by the bucket, you end up having one (sometimes)
if you need to tighten those the metric will slip.
Yeah, if there is too much play they will slip. I figure with a 1/4" set you're not doing high torque work on bolts so you can probably get away with a bit less of a perfect fit
@@todd.parker great video, appreciate it.
11m :(
Whoops, did I forget an m?
printed on the new label!
👍
tl;dr: Top 7 sizes are 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14mm.
Great pack! butt one thing is missing, the new wallet has turn and remove technique 'it would more usable.
If you drive Toyota, instead of 11 and 13, there will be 12 and 14mm everywhere
Yeah I hear 12 and 14mm are everywhere on Japanese cars
Just juse Metric, like the rest of the world. :)
And also include M3
US Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act in 1975...and almost 50 years later, lost souls still work with 'Imperial'.
"Long live the Empire!" and "May God save the Queen."
Need the 15mm.
Do you have a source for that red case? Id love to get one
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6695481