Hello, I bought the 50W 0.8ohm resistor by mistake, can I use it, or do I have to order the correct 50W 8ohm?? I would really appreciate an answer from you or someone who can answer me.
For a future revision, I would suggest looking at using an ATX breakout board and preserving the ATX connector for the power supply. I've built a few of these ATX bench supplies now, and they don't last long. If you can get it setup to allow you to connect any ATX power supply using the built-in ATX connector, it makes swapping out a failed power supply very easy, not to mention saving the steps of prepping the power supply. Also, if you are using PrusaSlicer, you can setup a layer change to to print the top layer of the labels with a different color filament. The print will pause and allow you to change filaments manually. That should work on most modern 3D printers and give you very crisp lettering in a contrasting color. I love the way you have the panel laid out, and the use of lots of fuses. Very well done! I'm going to have to give this one a shot, though I may add a breakout board into the box if there is room ... or remix it to give it some room ...
Looks better if you do a manual multi-material print for the labels. Just set up the label text as one object at single layer height and the surround and rest of the label as a second object then print out the first object and swap over filament and purge for the second. Printer needs to be dialled in well and bed surface condition will transfer over to the print, but with a good glass or smooth PEI surface and proper first layer setup it looks fantastic.
@Jon Marler : Can you give me a bit more info on the "ATX breakout board" please... it is not something I am familiar with. I removed the ATX connector from the motherboard of the same PC the power supply came from, so I would be able to connect the wires to it and allow me to unplug the power supply. Removing the connector was unbelievably difficult; I ended up cutting it out of the motherboard with a Dremel, but it was barely usable, and not worth the hassle. 😵💫
@@redheadsg1 : In my case, the power supply was from a dead PC. I think this is where most of these power supplies come from, and therefore have little, or no cost.
For those thinking that the blue wire (-12v) could be used to make a 24v output, be mindful of the -12v current rating. Many are only rated for 0.5A on that line. Many projects that require 24v would also require more current.
I think we use -12 v wire as neutral and +12 v wire as positive. When u connect load to +12 v wire current should be drawn from that wire isn't it ? Correct me if I'm wrong please !
@@ashutoshhatkarCurrent always flows through the entire circuit, in this case, both through the +12V and the -12V connector. Think of it like water flow: It flows through both the Source and the drain pipe, both need to be able to let a lot of water through.
I really was thinking about trying this but at the end of the day, I realized buying a decent 30V 10A with similar outlets and better controls would cost around $50-$60. A decent ATX PSU would cost at least that much plus the parts and labor (not to mention the need for a 3D printer to create the faceplate), nope. This seems to be a nice lmarketing for AliExpress.
This is a really nice build! A great way to use up an ATX power supply that may be lying around! The only comment I'd make, and this is more for the novices first getting into electronics, is that buck/boost converter may prove to be a bit "noisy" for someone doing radio/RF projects, and that's where a linear power supply becomes important, but for most people and those starting - this is a great first power supply! Great job!
Very nice! I happen to have a spare power supply and I have honestly not thought about doing this with it! I will probably do my own version for what I know I will need. Thanks for a cool video!
Nice! 25 year electronics engineer here: In future videos I suggest the DC converting rombulous max. As it’s capable of maintaining a dual phase, single hertz, rectifier. Unlike popular belief, it acts as an inverter when power supply is in demand, or rather, not in demand from rombulous max. Can’t go wrong with it
2:16 - those "crimped" cables ;_; These are done so bad, I`m just amazed by it. You "crimped" like few mm of cables and the rest of ferrule is just empty and don't hold cable inside - remove more insulation, you can twist them a little bit and make them even exit ferrule, so you can cut them afterwards - you will achieve much better connection. Still, you shouldn't put so many cables inside 1 ferrule, but in some DIY it's the best option if done correctly.
I built a similar thing, both items I used costing very little on Ali, one was a ATX PSU kit that you simply plugged the 24 pin plug into providing 4 fused outputs with terminals, the other was a variable voltage convertor with a simple LED screen which I hooked into one of the two 12v outputs and wired it into the 12v's terminals so I can get a steady variable pretty stable voltage from just under 1v to 12v. Think both items cost me about £4 plus a used ATX power supply, fitted it all into a plastic tub for convenience and use it all the time for just about everything.
Terrific project. I will definitely be making one with a spare spare SFX 650W power supply. I will make a few modifications in the case design, planning to use the RK6006 DC buck converter and use Wagos replace the huge ferrules. Thank you very much for sharing, you design is the best I have seen.
1:20 What are you building the resistor for in? P.S.: Found the answer in a lower post ... but would be nice to have that explnanation directly in the video ;)
I made that 2 years ago, it is super cool. I just wanted to say, you dont need fuses. Pc power supply will turn off automaticaly if you short circuit it or overload it.
@Lolo Vukonic : I have not seen one myself, but in a comment above from KrotowX, he describes some power supplies that do not have functional Over Voltage Protection (OVP) or Over Current Protection (OCP). It would be a good idea to be sure you don't have one of these before you left out the fuses. 😵💫 😵
Well, was thinking about buying a lab bench power supply, but this could be a nice project as well! Thanks for showing. If i can do it for less than the cost of a lab bench, i will try this 👍.
@@luthfigustomi Ah, is that so! I did not know that, is there a way of knowing whether your PSU needs that resister or should you just simply play it safe and put there none the less? Thanks for that information, I had no idea certain PSU's needed said dummy load!
This is a nice idea but remember, the buck-boost converter for the variable power side is not isolated and flips the polarity of the DC on its output, effectively making it a *negative* power supply relative to the others. If you try to use, say the 5V and 24V from the adjustable side, and connect the grounds together, you are going to have a bad time. As long as you don't try and use the left and right sides together it'll work fine. Or, use power from the right side and use the variable side as a negative supply will also work.
@@elijahcrain331 You can isolate the circuit, commonly called a "fly-buck converter". This uses a coupled inductor, diode, and cap to provide non-inverted output.
It’s easy to miss, but the power supply used had 2 12v rails. One can be used for 12v constant and the other can be used to power the Buck-Boost converter. Identified as solid yellow wires will be 12v1 and the second set will be yellow with black stripes 12v2. The 12v2 supply will generally (not always) be 2 yellow/black stripped wires with a pair of black wires to a 4 pin molex connector.
if the psu I'm doing this with doesn't have a labeled 12v2, or the specific yellow/black striped pair you mentioned, but does have a couple yellow and black wires separate from all the rest how can i test these to determine if they're a different rail? I'd like to be able to use both the 12v supplied by the psu and output from the buck converter@@NeverEvil1
@@abishopish if it doesn’t have a second 12v rail, you will just have to work with what is there or find a different supply that has a second 12v rail. PSUs of 350w or higher usually (not always) have a 2nd 12v rail.
Aluminum house resistor is that important and must had if we make this power supply .and one more where use black and red wire.. sorry ..still learning..btw good content..thanks
Keep in mind that PSUs from 2000-s - ones that possibly will become a choice due to possibility to get them from discontinued office PCs for free - most likely will be cheap ones with single DC voltage rail for all voltages in PSU. These PSUs are supposed to work in particular load range. Going outside load limit will noticeably change voltage level and add noise in other voltage outputs. Thus increased load in +12V rail may and will cause failures for components connected to +3.3V and +5V rails due to voltage increase with load raising at +12V rail :) As insult on injury - these units often doesn't have functional OVP and OCP as well.
Very good point. This is for standard ATX power supplies, not the proprietary ones from "insert PC brand here" Also, several PC makers are known to use non-standard pins in the standard ATX 20 pin connector.
Also, you can't do this sort of thing with an ATX12VO PSU, since it only supplies a 12v rail, and the motherboard is supposed to sort the rest out... so when ATX12VO becomes the de facto standard, you'll have to use up older PSUs. This isn't a problem yet, but in 5 years time it could be
@@MrSpleenboy In contrary ATX12VO PSU is simple in this aspect because it provide only +12V. And to get lower voltages, you must add fixed or adjustable voltage DC-DC converter anyway. These are available in plenty of designs, including affordable ones with good power filtering and working OCP and OVP.
@@KrotowX Sorry, I wasn't clear enough. What I meant was that you won't have a way to directly tap the 5V and 3.3V rails, because there won't be any. But, as you rightly point out, there are alternatives that you can use to yield power at these voltages. It's just more work and requires more knowledge to safely and correctly implement, is all. Hope that clarifies?
I personally wouldn't use female power jack, it is made to receive power, not to provide it, therefore it's designed in a way that's making it very easy to short positive and negative when manipulating with something conductive like screwdriver near the power supply. To your credit, it's at least protected with fuse, but still, there are better alternatives...
good idea but it will be better if you can just have all PSU connector connect to the socket than do the conversion with in the controller box, this way its modular design, it will be easier for others to adapt to this design also will be a simple fix when PSU breaks down by just swap it out, without the need to re solder all custom connectors
Excelente proyecto y ejecución. Muy prolijo. Te felicito y te agradezco por compartir tus proyectos a la comunidad. Todos los aportes suman, más aún si se ejecutan de esta manera. Saludos cordiales desde Buenos Aires, Argentina
I made a very basic version of this a couple of years ago, using the same buck-converter, and on old router case. It has been really useful, but yours would be so much better. Thank you.
1:16 My ATX power supply has 4 separate 12V outputs (V1, V2, V3, and V4). Can I connect all the 12V outputs together? Also, I have two separate 5V outputs (one with 5 wires and the other with 2). Is it better to use the 5V output with 5 wires or the one with 2 wires to connect the housed resistors?
Very nice video. can anyone tell me what is the power consumption of the old ATX power supply (of course, without connecting any load to it), e.g. just the fan and parasitic consumption.
Okay, I've got to ask a question here...what is the purpose of the 50W resister connected between, what I presume is, ground and +5v? I'm a little confused over that.
That USB connector is not a straight-through. It has an in-built regulator because it is designed to be mounted in car/boat dash boards, so it expects 12v input. The resistor just provides a load to stabilise the voltage on the rail and keep the PSU happy.
ปีที่แล้ว +1
Might as well use the 5V purple wire. That's how I used it to power my USB port. PSUs have 2 power states. Standby and fully on. In standby 5V purple is active while the rest is off. But two power switches are required though.
These kinds of switch-mode PSUs don't stabilize outputs unless you have a load on them. Having the resistor in the PSU means its own fan will keep it cool.
I'm in the process of printing and building my own customized version of your power supply. Thank you for the print files, supply links, and the video! Sorry for the ignorant question, but what is the purpose of the resistor added to the 5v side?
Probably used as a load to keep the power supply working correctly when you aren't pulling anything from the 5v rail. A lot of power supplies don't work well without a 5v load.
People be careful because opening a power supply can electrocute you to death, even if it's unplugged. You have to ground the capacitors before handling it safely
Nice job! The video is a joy to watch because of your editing. I especially like how you laid out the components on that black cardboard, making it clear how things are to be put together. One question though: what is the purpose of the 8 ohm 50W resistor? It is connected to a +5V wire and a ground, correct? Thanks.
Many ATX power supplies need to sense a load of 10W to fully power up or they stay in standby mode or very low power mode (less current). On old Dell PSUs, sometimes a cooling fan is enough load to make them work, say a 40x40x10 but bigger is better. I think those fans provide a 12 ohm load, but don't use more than about 1.5W of power. Plus you get cooling. The way this setup is made is the DC buck converter has a fan, but it's separate to the set voltage terminals. You could try desoldering and then powering the fan via the 5V line directly to use as a load, but your mileage may vary. Don't blame me if something breaks.
@@projector7141 Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. I like your idea of a fan, killing two birds with one stone. I'll experiment and see what works. Thanks again!
At 1:50, you used a 10,00 mm² wire ferrule I assume. At least the colorcoding of the ferrule says it's 10,00 mm². For the future, try the lowest one fitting instead of the one you assume works. In your case, a 6,00 mm² might have worked just as well. Please also strip the wires much much longer. You can cut off the excess material after crimping. Your ferrules seem to not be filled properly, which can lead to contact resistance which then results into heat. I don't believe there will be much heat due to resistance but it's still worth to keep a look into for the future. At 3:50, you had crimped a connector. Just as a tip, solder the wire to the copper (I assume it's copper). Not only does it get better contact, but it also removes the possibility of the wire getting too loose. You also could have just soldered directly to the ports, but that's just a matter of taste. All in all, it looks like a pretty fun project! I believe you could even fit all in the PSU if you were to make the top a bit bigger, by printing a new cover. Maybe an idea for the future :p ?
Only other thing I'd add is that 2-32v outputs don't have their polarity lined up. Easy enough to swap the banana plug sockets over so that positive and negative line up with the speaker-terminal output.
Probably used as a load to keep the power supply working correctly when you aren't pulling anything from the 5v rail. A lot of power supplies don't work well without a 5v load.
According to other comments, only some PSUs require a load to be stable. Some do, some don't, so worth trying without and seeing how it goes, but being mindful that you might need to fit one.
3D Design File Download :
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5894950
Parts List (Affiliate Links):
1 x Aluminum Housed Resistors(50w 8 ohm) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB7mtQ5
1 x Terminal Strip Screw (20A or 30A) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEuZ94t
1 x Banana Plug to Alligator Clip Connector(1m) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_De3Ji3T
7 x Banana Socket s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFfZ1tT
5 x Fuse Holders (5x20mm) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmYdbk9
5 x Fuse Sets (5x20mm) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDS7A3P
1 x QC 3.0 USB Charger Socket s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DC6pBtL
1 x DC Buck Boost Converter s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFv5Cmp
1 x 2 Positions Connector Terminal(Small Type) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCix2lr
--------------------------------------------------------
Silicone Wire : s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DcvkL65
--------------------------------------------------------
1 x Switch(21mmx15mm) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFT6LVx
1 x DC Power Supply Jack Socket Female s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFpIv2N
--------------------------------------------------------
Tubular Terminal s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dl4mZp7
Box Insulated Wire Connector s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DldST6V
Crimping Pliers s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEvtIvf
Heat Shrink Tubing s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBmQ9nJ
Tesa Type Coroplast s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_De2kuZf
Terimakasi bos file nya
Hello, I bought the 50W 0.8ohm resistor by mistake, can I use it, or do I have to order the correct 50W 8ohm?? I would really appreciate an answer from you or someone who can answer me.
For a future revision, I would suggest looking at using an ATX breakout board and preserving the ATX connector for the power supply. I've built a few of these ATX bench supplies now, and they don't last long. If you can get it setup to allow you to connect any ATX power supply using the built-in ATX connector, it makes swapping out a failed power supply very easy, not to mention saving the steps of prepping the power supply. Also, if you are using PrusaSlicer, you can setup a layer change to to print the top layer of the labels with a different color filament. The print will pause and allow you to change filaments manually. That should work on most modern 3D printers and give you very crisp lettering in a contrasting color. I love the way you have the panel laid out, and the use of lots of fuses. Very well done! I'm going to have to give this one a shot, though I may add a breakout board into the box if there is room ... or remix it to give it some room ...
Looks better if you do a manual multi-material print for the labels. Just set up the label text as one object at single layer height and the surround and rest of the label as a second object then print out the first object and swap over filament and purge for the second. Printer needs to be dialled in well and bed surface condition will transfer over to the print, but with a good glass or smooth PEI surface and proper first layer setup it looks fantastic.
Share with us your version after finishing it
@Jon Marler : Can you give me a bit more info on the "ATX breakout board" please... it is not something I am familiar with.
I removed the ATX connector from the motherboard of the same PC the power supply came from, so I would be able to connect the wires to it and allow me to unplug the power supply. Removing the connector was unbelievably difficult; I ended up cutting it out of the motherboard with a Dremel, but it was barely usable, and not worth the hassle. 😵💫
So it is better just buying a lab power supply for like 100€ if ATX PS are dying that fast.
@@redheadsg1 : In my case, the power supply was from a dead PC. I think this is where most of these power supplies come from, and therefore have little, or no cost.
For those thinking that the blue wire (-12v) could be used to make a 24v output, be mindful of the -12v current rating. Many are only rated for 0.5A on that line. Many projects that require 24v would also require more current.
This could be done with the second 12V rail, I think...
I think we use -12 v wire as neutral and +12 v wire as positive. When u connect load to +12 v wire current should be drawn from that wire isn't it ? Correct me if I'm wrong please !
@@ashutoshhatkarCurrent always flows through the entire circuit, in this case, both through the +12V and the -12V connector. Think of it like water flow: It flows through both the Source and the drain pipe, both need to be able to let a lot of water through.
I really was thinking about trying this but at the end of the day, I realized buying a decent 30V 10A with similar outlets and better controls would cost around $50-$60. A decent ATX PSU would cost at least that much plus the parts and labor (not to mention the need for a 3D printer to create the faceplate), nope. This seems to be a nice lmarketing for AliExpress.
But what if you have an old ATX from an old PC, just laying there😊
This is a really nice build! A great way to use up an ATX power supply that may be lying around!
The only comment I'd make, and this is more for the novices first getting into electronics, is that buck/boost converter may prove to be a bit "noisy" for someone doing radio/RF projects, and that's where a linear power supply becomes important, but for most people and those starting - this is a great first power supply! Great job!
awesome project! The smooth music and intense hammering really ties it together
Very nice! I happen to have a spare power supply and I have honestly not thought about doing this with it! I will probably do my own version for what I know I will need. Thanks for a cool video!
Man, you were WAILING on those 3d prints! I'm surprised it didn't break! lmao
Such a good job! And two fully working versions, top-mounted and box-type, perfect.
WOW! This is first time I see a nice looking and working thing 😍😍
Nice! 25 year electronics engineer here: In future videos I suggest the DC converting rombulous max. As it’s capable of maintaining a dual phase, single hertz, rectifier. Unlike popular belief, it acts as an inverter when power supply is in demand, or rather, not in demand from rombulous max. Can’t go wrong with it
2:16 - those "crimped" cables ;_; These are done so bad, I`m just amazed by it. You "crimped" like few mm of cables and the rest of ferrule is just empty and don't hold cable inside - remove more insulation, you can twist them a little bit and make them even exit ferrule, so you can cut them afterwards - you will achieve much better connection. Still, you shouldn't put so many cables inside 1 ferrule, but in some DIY it's the best option if done correctly.
I built a similar thing, both items I used costing very little on Ali, one was a ATX PSU kit that you simply plugged the 24 pin plug into providing 4 fused outputs with terminals, the other was a variable voltage convertor with a simple LED screen which I hooked into one of the two 12v outputs and wired it into the 12v's terminals so I can get a steady variable pretty stable voltage from just under 1v to 12v. Think both items cost me about £4 plus a used ATX power supply, fitted it all into a plastic tub for convenience and use it all the time for just about everything.
perhaps you can put links to these parts?
BANG BANG BANG!!! LOVE IT! This is a great project, thanks for this, need to build one of these for my Bench.
Закрепить "барашками" - это гениально! Но работать будет не долго - нет СИНЕЙ ИЗОЛЕНТЫ !
I like the little touch with the hummer !
Terrific project. I will definitely be making one with a spare spare SFX 650W power supply. I will make a few modifications in the case design, planning to use the RK6006 DC buck converter and use Wagos replace the huge ferrules. Thank you very much for sharing, you design is the best I have seen.
Nice to see someone using ferrules and properly covered spade connectors, instead of soldering everything together. Looks good👍
Well done sir, a great video and great design. I also like the music too!!
Good build. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Generally I despise pantomime videos, but I enjoyed this one. Thanks.
1:20 What are you building the resistor for in?
P.S.: Found the answer in a lower post ... but would be nice to have that explnanation directly in the video ;)
What.... what for?
Dummy load older psus need that
I made that 2 years ago, it is super cool.
I just wanted to say, you dont need fuses.
Pc power supply will turn off automaticaly
if you short circuit it or overload it.
@Lolo Vukonic : I have not seen one myself, but in a comment above from KrotowX, he describes some power supplies that do not have functional Over Voltage Protection (OVP) or Over Current Protection (OCP). It would be a good idea to be sure you don't have one of these before you left out the fuses. 😵💫 😵
Thanks, i didn't know that some of them don't have that.
@@DizzySubset7151 : Me neither!
Even if they did have protection is better to have a fuse in a comfortable place and for it to be below what the PSU has so you can easily change it.
very easy to understand show scheme throughout this video, thanks a lot !
Well, was thinking about buying a lab bench power supply, but this could be a nice project as well! Thanks for showing. If i can do it for less than the cost of a lab bench, i will try this 👍.
Teşekkürler çok temiz bir işçilik Türkye İzmirden sevgiler
Ordered my parts Today, thank you!! Will update your Thingaverse Page with the Build Images!!!
Why you put a resistor 8 ohm 50 w between ground and hot line pin?🌹
I would like know too
it was for dummy load, older PSU need that
@@luthfigustomi Ah, is that so! I did not know that, is there a way of knowing whether your PSU needs that resister or should you just simply play it safe and put there none the less? Thanks for that information, I had no idea certain PSU's needed said dummy load!
Line up the lettering on the fuse holders for goodness sake! All that nice work, cleverly done 👍
If you mount it in a surface, I would recommend flip covers for the ports to keep trash and dust out of them.
I was about to buy mytself a power supply. This is wayy more cooler!
Interesting projects, live this philosophy
Thanks & regards
Jean-François
La fuente regulable más fácil, siempre y linda que e visto
This is a nice idea but remember, the buck-boost converter for the variable power side is not isolated and flips the polarity of the DC on its output, effectively making it a *negative* power supply relative to the others. If you try to use, say the 5V and 24V from the adjustable side, and connect the grounds together, you are going to have a bad time.
As long as you don't try and use the left and right sides together it'll work fine. Or, use power from the right side and use the variable side as a negative supply will also work.
Is there something else you can use so that it doesnt flip it?
@@elijahcrain331 You can isolate the circuit, commonly called a "fly-buck converter". This uses a coupled inductor, diode, and cap to provide non-inverted output.
It’s easy to miss, but the power supply used had 2 12v rails. One can be used for 12v constant and the other can be used to power the Buck-Boost converter.
Identified as solid yellow wires will be 12v1 and the second set will be yellow with black stripes 12v2. The 12v2 supply will generally (not always) be 2 yellow/black stripped wires with a pair of black wires to a 4 pin molex connector.
if the psu I'm doing this with doesn't have a labeled 12v2, or the specific yellow/black striped pair you mentioned, but does have a couple yellow and black wires separate from all the rest how can i test these to determine if they're a different rail? I'd like to be able to use both the 12v supplied by the psu and output from the buck converter@@NeverEvil1
@@abishopish if it doesn’t have a second 12v rail, you will just have to work with what is there or find a different supply that has a second 12v rail. PSUs of 350w or higher usually (not always) have a 2nd 12v rail.
Aluminum house resistor is that important and must had if we make this power supply .and one more where use black and red wire.. sorry ..still learning..btw good content..thanks
Un proyecto maravilloso 😍, su trabajo impoluto y muchas gracias por los archivos
Keep in mind that PSUs from 2000-s - ones that possibly will become a choice due to possibility to get them from discontinued office PCs for free - most likely will be cheap ones with single DC voltage rail for all voltages in PSU. These PSUs are supposed to work in particular load range. Going outside load limit will noticeably change voltage level and add noise in other voltage outputs. Thus increased load in +12V rail may and will cause failures for components connected to +3.3V and +5V rails due to voltage increase with load raising at +12V rail :) As insult on injury - these units often doesn't have functional OVP and OCP as well.
Very good point. This is for standard ATX power supplies, not the proprietary ones from "insert PC brand here" Also, several PC makers are known to use non-standard pins in the standard ATX 20 pin connector.
Also, you can't do this sort of thing with an ATX12VO PSU, since it only supplies a 12v rail, and the motherboard is supposed to sort the rest out... so when ATX12VO becomes the de facto standard, you'll have to use up older PSUs.
This isn't a problem yet, but in 5 years time it could be
@@MrSpleenboy In contrary ATX12VO PSU is simple in this aspect because it provide only +12V. And to get lower voltages, you must add fixed or adjustable voltage DC-DC converter anyway. These are available in plenty of designs, including affordable ones with good power filtering and working OCP and OVP.
@@KrotowX Sorry, I wasn't clear enough. What I meant was that you won't have a way to directly tap the 5V and 3.3V rails, because there won't be any.
But, as you rightly point out, there are alternatives that you can use to yield power at these voltages. It's just more work and requires more knowledge to safely and correctly implement, is all.
Hope that clarifies?
My new favorite channel! Loved the video. Looking forward to more of your creations
I personally wouldn't use female power jack, it is made to receive power, not to provide it, therefore it's designed in a way that's making it very easy to short positive and negative when manipulating with something conductive like screwdriver near the power supply. To your credit, it's at least protected with fuse, but still, there are better alternatives...
Awesome project. We’ll detailed and explained.
Thanks for sharing!
Greetings from México!
Why the resistor between 5v and Gnd???
The power supply needs to register a resistance to power on
Why is it used? I can't see the answer in lower comments
Excellent job and top quality, thanks for sharing
Молодец. Отличная работа. И сам процесс сборки интересен! Продолжай в том же духе!
Very good job. Keep it up👌👌👌👌
i like your video. But why use of the 8 ohm 50W resistor connected to a +5V wire and a ground?
Great idea, nice looking project.
Классная задумка!
good idea but it will be better if you can just have all PSU connector connect to the socket than do the conversion with in the controller box, this way its modular design, it will be easier for others to adapt to this design also will be a simple fix when PSU breaks down by just swap it out, without the need to re solder all custom connectors
Very cool, I have ordered the parts can’t wait to put it together
terimakasih tutor nya pa, sangat bermanfaat 👍👍🤗🤗
Thats looks great mate.
I am going to make one of my own now, cheers
Lovely build.
Great video Thanks for shar5. 👍
Great Jon turned out wonderful cheers!
Perfect work, just super duper.
I dont have a 3D printer but would love to make this. Too bad you dont offer this in a kit form. Maybe in the future? I think you could make many $$$.
Excelente proyecto y ejecución. Muy prolijo. Te felicito y te agradezco por compartir tus proyectos a la comunidad. Todos los aportes suman, más aún si se ejecutan de esta manera. Saludos cordiales desde Buenos Aires, Argentina
olala is very gooooood 😍
Perfect work👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻♥️
I like how the video is all calm and peaceful ASMR-like and then "POW POW POW" with the hammer 🤣
I love your video editing
literally a bench power supply. That was funny. liked/sub'd.
Pretty good...Pretty damn good lads !
I love the interface, just wish the design was all in one so no separate psu hanging out the back
Acts very careful being cautious. Then proceeds to pull out rubber mallet and beat the living neck out them plastic parts lol
Nice build.I like it.
Хорошо придумали , лицевая панель отлично выполнена. Я купил бы у вас несколько панелей без навесного. Как вы на это смотрите. Приморский край.
dude! you make videos better than some people with thousands of subsribers! love it!
I made a very basic version of this a couple of years ago, using the same buck-converter, and on old router case. It has been really useful, but yours would be so much better.
Thank you.
1:16 My ATX power supply has 4 separate 12V outputs (V1, V2, V3, and V4). Can I connect all the 12V outputs together? Also, I have two separate 5V outputs (one with 5 wires and the other with 2). Is it better to use the 5V output with 5 wires or the one with 2 wires to connect the housed resistors?
This is awesome dude! Good work!
You should use that when your camping
Very nice video. can anyone tell me what is the power consumption of the old ATX power supply (of course, without connecting any load to it), e.g. just the fan and parasitic consumption.
Nice build 👍
Excelente trabalho ! Parabéns!
Very nice.. do you have a wiring diagram for people to refer back to?
Okay, I've got to ask a question here...what is the purpose of the 50W resister connected between, what I presume is, ground and +5v? I'm a little confused over that.
yeah, i like the most the rubber hummer work :)
What is the use of 50w 8ohm resistor,?
How did you apply 12v to USB? normally it's 5v, check the diagram 2:42,
That USB connector is not a straight-through. It has an in-built regulator because it is designed to be mounted in car/boat dash boards, so it expects 12v input.
The resistor just provides a load to stabilise the voltage on the rail and keep the PSU happy.
Might as well use the 5V purple wire. That's how I used it to power my USB port. PSUs have 2 power states. Standby and fully on. In standby 5V purple is active while the rest is off. But two power switches are required though.
These kinds of switch-mode PSUs don't stabilize outputs unless you have a load on them. Having the resistor in the PSU means its own fan will keep it cool.
the 50W resistor is to provide a load, some older atx psu need this to keep them going, most do not.
@@ojmbvids also, it's QC3.0, so it can supply more than 5V (like 9V or 12V) for higher power output. I think having 12V input is beneficial for that.
The amount spent for fabrication and aceesories and displaymodule all work out high for which one can buy a adjustable power supply unit.
Wiih keren❤❤❤
It's amazing !!! Thx i must do it :)
Awesome 👍
Sir ji nice🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Ye cabinet kaha milta hai?
Obra de arte!
I'm in the process of printing and building my own customized version of your power supply. Thank you for the print files, supply links, and the video! Sorry for the ignorant question, but what is the purpose of the resistor added to the 5v side?
Probably used as a load to keep the power supply working correctly when you aren't pulling anything from the 5v rail. A lot of power supplies don't work well without a 5v load.
@@boomers_pb Ah, that makes sense. It's been bothering me all day. Thanks for the knowledge!
Hey what printer you are using?
U can actually use -12v as ground to get 24v 17v or 15.3v
But the -12v rail is limited to 0.5A as per 0:28, so it would probably be a little risky using it for that purpose.
I like it.👍👍🙏🙏
People be careful because opening a power supply can electrocute you to death, even if it's unplugged. You have to ground the capacitors before handling it safely
The mallet was personal
Nice job! The video is a joy to watch because of your editing. I especially like how you laid out the components on that black cardboard, making it clear how things are to be put together. One question though: what is the purpose of the 8 ohm 50W resistor? It is connected to a +5V wire and a ground, correct? Thanks.
to increase the power of the 12v line
@@germantesliuk7541 Can you please explain how does that work, given that the red wire is a 5V line? Can you furnish a schematic? Thanks a lot.
Many ATX power supplies need to sense a load of 10W to fully power up or they stay in standby mode or very low power mode (less current). On old Dell PSUs, sometimes a cooling fan is enough load to make them work, say a 40x40x10 but bigger is better. I think those fans provide a 12 ohm load, but don't use more than about 1.5W of power. Plus you get cooling. The way this setup is made is the DC buck converter has a fan, but it's separate to the set voltage terminals. You could try desoldering and then powering the fan via the 5V line directly to use as a load, but your mileage may vary. Don't blame me if something breaks.
@@projector7141 Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. I like your idea of a fan, killing two birds with one stone. I'll experiment and see what works. Thanks again!
@@projector7141 thank you for this answer :)
At 1:50, you used a 10,00 mm² wire ferrule I assume. At least the colorcoding of the ferrule says it's 10,00 mm².
For the future, try the lowest one fitting instead of the one you assume works. In your case, a 6,00 mm² might have worked just as well. Please also strip the wires much much longer. You can cut off the excess material after crimping. Your ferrules seem to not be filled properly, which can lead to contact resistance which then results into heat. I don't believe there will be much heat due to resistance but it's still worth to keep a look into for the future.
At 3:50, you had crimped a connector. Just as a tip, solder the wire to the copper (I assume it's copper). Not only does it get better contact, but it also removes the possibility of the wire getting too loose. You also could have just soldered directly to the ports, but that's just a matter of taste.
All in all, it looks like a pretty fun project! I believe you could even fit all in the PSU if you were to make the top a bit bigger, by printing a new cover.
Maybe an idea for the future :p ?
Only other thing I'd add is that 2-32v outputs don't have their polarity lined up. Easy enough to swap the banana plug sockets over so that positive and negative line up with the speaker-terminal output.
at 3:58, you could see they were both soldered to the copper.
Question, why do you use all the wires of the +12v rail, +5v rail etc ? Using 1 wire each of any voltage rail is not enough ?
care to explain why you use the aluminum resistor at 1:20 ?
Probably used as a load to keep the power supply working correctly when you aren't pulling anything from the 5v rail. A lot of power supplies don't work well without a 5v load.
According to other comments, only some PSUs require a load to be stable. Some do, some don't, so worth trying without and seeing how it goes, but being mindful that you might need to fit one.
Great job on repurposing the power supply. Reduce e-waste.
The crimps are dangerously bad... You need to strip atleast 2x the amount, if you plan on packing 5 wires into one wire-end sleeve
I like your presentation video
3:12 gently pushing it
3:16 S M A S H
for the resister does it matter what black wire or red you take ?
any1 else laugh when he hit it with the mallet