Due to the design of the electronics you commonly work on, I was surprised this repair did not require the recalibration of any parts by the manufacturer to work.
Thanks! There's a story behind the defence I didn't tell in the video. When we started the move of Rossmann Repair a few years back we needed to do some demo ourselves. Hihi and I went over to HD and picked up a Ryobi circular saw. People lost it on stream when they saw that. But that saw got beat to hell and still works.
There's no way I could shame you Paul, why? Despite having so many tools I don't know where most of them are! The tool boxes are empty and I have to be careful where I step in my basement because I might get a nut wrench embedded in the sole of my feet. BTW, I went to my local orange store this past weekend and was shocked to see all the copper wire supplies under lock and key. I asked the 83 year old lady that runs electrical wtf was going on and she said they come in and fill their carts full of rolls of wire and walk out without paying and the staff can't stop them. When you consider some rolls are over $300-$400 a pop that's some major loss. I thought I was safe from the BS living out in the CT countryside, I guess no one is.
A few people I know have the Ryobi 18 volt cordless air pump. Seems really handy. Cheap tools have their place. I have a set of large impact sockets from harbor freight. I use them a couple times a year and they work great.
I have about the same. I got my impacts at the Englishtown swap meet many years ago. They're about the same at HF. They saw heavy shop use for a bunch of years. I broke the most used (19 and 21). The rest are holding up just fine.
I have green tools from the orange store. I don't do much work with them so they're fine. If I needed a hammer drill again, it'd be Milwaukee or Makita. I've needed it once in 20 years, I'll rent it for $20 if I need it again. To be honest, my sockets are S&K and old Craftsman before they became consumables. Edit: if you were one of us, at your bench rate, we'd be better off throwing the damn thing out and buying new :-)
11 หลายเดือนก่อน +3
Back in the day when I played airsoft we had the same problems becuase the switch was basically the same design as this. What I and other people dud was that we added a power mosfet + resistor so the switch just turned that on instead and the mosfet handled all the current. I dont know hat mosfet would be suitable, we often used a 30A fuse for our guns because they tend to be very upgraded so they pulled a lot of current! But like you sad there is space so a big one with a heatshink I guess should work.
Great video. My Ryobi blower is having this same issue. Now I know how to fix it. I think I might just pull that whole variable speed switch out and just put a toggle switch in there since I only really use it on the highest setting anyway. I've been generally happy with the Ryobi tools for just light home use considering the price point. I was impressed actually with the 1/4" impact driver. I was replacing the anode rod on the water heater. I could not get the anode rod to loosen. If I put a breaker bar and pipe on it, I just ended up moving the entire full water heater. I didn't think the 1/4" impact would work, but to my surprise it actually did loosen the anode rod!
If you look threw the comments on this video someone found the actual replacement switch on e replacement parts. Next time mine goes bad I'm planning on getting the new switch but adding a relay to handle the high current of high fan.
Nothing wrong with many ryobi power tools. Not much worse than “DeFault,” and not the price. I wouldn’t buy their ratchet or 1/2” impact, but I have many of the others. Batteries and the rest are easy to repair. I have snap on, rip off hand tools, and I like them. Use what works for you, am comfortable, and you’re proficient. The rest doesn’t matter.
at least all screws are the same size and regular ones as well, they should take example from Apple how to do it right and for the Planned Obsolescence we have another word - Apple engineering
I might have to upgrade the FET too for that. I need to play around with it and see how much amperage the motor actually draws. I was also informed that there is a replacement switch on the market. I'll get one and tear it down to see if it's a better design. If it's just the same thing then either modify that circuit or add a MOSFET or relay to handle the motor high current. It shouldn't be hard for a manufacturing engineer to change those burnt contacts for some kind of clicking spring design so I hope that's what was done.
@@A2000MHz The FET is already switching the full current of the motor since circuits like that typically control speed by pulse width modulation. I'd argue that the lower speed is likely stressing the FET more since it's constantly switching it on and off and there's a time on each transition where the FET is not fully on or off and as such is dissipating power, and that wouldn't happen if the FET was just left in a fully on state. But yeah I'd agree an aftermarket switch is probably a better choice then modifying a poorly designed motor drive circuit. They should have made the FET do all the work in the first place (like everyone else does) but they chose a kludge instead.
That's awesome! I usually go to repair clinic for parts like this but they have nothing for it. But I'm not just gonna put the new switch in like it is, I will add a relay to handle the current from the battery to the motor. Unless they have updated the design.
Add a snubber network across the switch contacts to catch some of that arc energy.. maybe this is more advice to Ryobi as fitting any more components in that switch is gonna be tight :-)
Hold on.. That loose diode isn't some sort of avalanche breakdown diode across the switch to suppress surges is it? Maybe that's why it's been burning so much?
I broke it off right there trying to pry the switch open. The solder couldn't have been great but it was connected until I put my screwdriver in there.
Why does everybody always feel the need to shame certain brands? Maybe Ryobi isn't the most high performance brand but I can tell you one thing, in the small right angle grinder niche, they make the best one that there is, with a variable speed trigger and it's smooth as hell. Way better than the equivalent from Makita or Milwaukee. Way way better. They typically have more innovative stuff, even if they're not super high performance. I think the days of shaming Ryobi should be over. Update: okay I admit that as a shitty switch though...
Poor Paul: Australians have a cheaper option called Ozito. Much cheaper but much greater value for money. Yes we have Ryobi too and I use them tools with much success.
I keep coming back to this video hoping you have found a better fix. I have a replacement switch, but I keep repairing the affected contact. Any updates? I may just replace it with a toggle. An 18V high current relay might work… I just need time to sit down a draw out the schematic.
This is still operating with this last fix in place. It is acting strange lately, I think the low speeds are now failing. I think I will have to replace the switch before this year leaf season. Then I will look into adding a relay for the high speed.
I'm sure the switch is the issue as said. Not fixing the diode would cause back emf to hit the switch when you let go of the trigger. The back emf would surely cause arcing as well, adding to the problem.
these types of engineering choices are often a compounding set of mistakes that have multiple parties to blame... engineers cut corners, qa teams don't test this failure case, inspection agencies don't validate that this dangerous design issues, and it's a disposable consumerist society so the data from the failed versions doesn't get back to the manufacturer... next thing you know you've got a massive recall and billions of dollars in class action lawsuits... building physical products at scale is one of the hardest problems
It's amazing with the way you put it. The design had to go threw at least a few people before it got put into production. This is buried inside the unit where nobody would think to look. I wonder if the original design called for a relay like I want to install into the system but got cost cut out. And nobody thought to change the switch for something more suited. I just don't want to believe that any engineer, corner cutting or not, would spec a slow acting contact for a high amperage device.
@@A2000MHz a big concern I’ve seen is that in the “data driven” engineering world, unfortunately an engineer may not have access to all the information they need to make an effective decision at each stage of the process Picture this - an annual report that shows cost for different parts of the BOM across the entire ryobi product line, some alternatives, and maybe some baseline qa testing results. If the report doesn’t properly show the operating conditions of each product or what kind of power draw can be expected it’s so easy to miss a significant change in the design of the replacement being selected, especially if you’re maybe getting a bulk discount from a supplier for a part that you can use across a dozen different products. And hey maybe 11/12 of those products have a better design where there’s a separate relay for the high-amperage circuit controlled by the cheaper part so it’s nbd but unless either a) it’s entirely clear in the data that there’s a problem in the design or b) you’re regularly combing through the operating parameters of every part in your BOM for every decision you make in the supply chain and design process, these types of things are bound to fall through the cracks Just one of the reasons I’m excited to see how AI could be leveraged to process design files, BOMs, pricing, and be a tool that engineers can use at each step of the process to make sure these things don’t get missed
Mine is only 4 months old and used probably 20 times. It already is having issues. Only 14 going to the motor with a fully charged battery. I replaced the switch will be ok for a while. Poor design. I love all my other Ryobi tools.
Yea, I don't think I would ever do this repair for anyone. The leaf blower is only $160 with a battery and charger. This is a do-it-yourself or a find-a-nephew-to-do-it kind of job.
I've only ever had problems with their batteries after 5+ years of use or from physical abuse/mishandling. I take that back, I had one of their 40v batteries arrive DOA and their warranty team got me a replacement battery within a few days. I've got about 10 of their 18v batteries in my garage currently with an odd assortment of tools to go with them. I have moved to the 40v platform for the heavier load yard tools. I've had good luck with their batteries overall.
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Due to the design of the electronics you commonly work on, I was surprised this repair did not require the recalibration of any parts by the manufacturer to work.
Putting some dielectric grease on the contacts will help too
I tried that the first time I did this, it seemed to make it burn faster
Hmm, that is odd. Was it silcon based grease?@@A2000MHz
Nice tool kit, my first thoughts were, sweet a repair video from the garage today
Thanks! There's a story behind the defence I didn't tell in the video. When we started the move of Rossmann Repair a few years back we needed to do some demo ourselves. Hihi and I went over to HD and picked up a Ryobi circular saw. People lost it on stream when they saw that. But that saw got beat to hell and still works.
There's no way I could shame you Paul, why? Despite having so many tools I don't know where most of them are! The tool boxes are empty and I have to be careful where I step in my basement because I might get a nut wrench embedded in the sole of my feet. BTW, I went to my local orange store this past weekend and was shocked to see all the copper wire supplies under lock and key. I asked the 83 year old lady that runs electrical wtf was going on and she said they come in and fill their carts full of rolls of wire and walk out without paying and the staff can't stop them. When you consider some rolls are over $300-$400 a pop that's some major loss. I thought I was safe from the BS living out in the CT countryside, I guess no one is.
I'm the same with my tool organization. When he was trying to show his tool cred, I was marvelling at how neat and tidy all his tools looked.
A few people I know have the Ryobi 18 volt cordless air pump. Seems really handy. Cheap tools have their place. I have a set of large impact sockets from harbor freight. I use them a couple times a year and they work great.
I have about the same. I got my impacts at the Englishtown swap meet many years ago. They're about the same at HF. They saw heavy shop use for a bunch of years. I broke the most used (19 and 21). The rest are holding up just fine.
I have green tools from the orange store. I don't do much work with them so they're fine. If I needed a hammer drill again, it'd be Milwaukee or Makita. I've needed it once in 20 years, I'll rent it for $20 if I need it again. To be honest, my sockets are S&K and old Craftsman before they became consumables.
Edit: if you were one of us, at your bench rate, we'd be better off throwing the damn thing out and buying new :-)
Back in the day when I played airsoft we had the same problems becuase the switch was basically the same design as this.
What I and other people dud was that we added a power mosfet + resistor so the switch just turned that on instead and the mosfet handled all the current.
I dont know hat mosfet would be suitable, we often used a 30A fuse for our guns because they tend to be very upgraded so they pulled a lot of current!
But like you sad there is space so a big one with a heatshink I guess should work.
Great video. My Ryobi blower is having this same issue. Now I know how to fix it. I think I might just pull that whole variable speed switch out and just put a toggle switch in there since I only really use it on the highest setting anyway.
I've been generally happy with the Ryobi tools for just light home use considering the price point. I was impressed actually with the 1/4" impact driver. I was replacing the anode rod on the water heater. I could not get the anode rod to loosen. If I put a breaker bar and pipe on it, I just ended up moving the entire full water heater. I didn't think the 1/4" impact would work, but to my surprise it actually did loosen the anode rod!
If you look threw the comments on this video someone found the actual replacement switch on e replacement parts. Next time mine goes bad I'm planning on getting the new switch but adding a relay to handle the high current of high fan.
Nothing wrong with many ryobi power tools. Not much worse than “DeFault,” and not the price. I wouldn’t buy their ratchet or 1/2” impact, but I have many of the others. Batteries and the rest are easy to repair. I have snap on, rip off hand tools, and I like them. Use what works for you, am comfortable, and you’re proficient. The rest doesn’t matter.
at least all screws are the same size and regular ones as well, they should take example from Apple how to do it right
and for the Planned Obsolescence we have another word - Apple engineering
You could rewire those contacts so they force the FET to always on when the trigger is fully pulled and let the FET pass all the current to the motor.
I might have to upgrade the FET too for that. I need to play around with it and see how much amperage the motor actually draws.
I was also informed that there is a replacement switch on the market. I'll get one and tear it down to see if it's a better design. If it's just the same thing then either modify that circuit or add a MOSFET or relay to handle the motor high current. It shouldn't be hard for a manufacturing engineer to change those burnt contacts for some kind of clicking spring design so I hope that's what was done.
@@A2000MHz The FET is already switching the full current of the motor since circuits like that typically control speed by pulse width modulation. I'd argue that the lower speed is likely stressing the FET more since it's constantly switching it on and off and there's a time on each transition where the FET is not fully on or off and as such is dissipating power, and that wouldn't happen if the FET was just left in a fully on state.
But yeah I'd agree an aftermarket switch is probably a better choice then modifying a poorly designed motor drive circuit. They should have made the FET do all the work in the first place (like everyone else does) but they chose a kludge instead.
Fellow motor mechanic here Paul, and fantastic selection of quality tools you have there
So happy that I have splurged on Milwaukee. I’d rather cry at the register than cry from tool failure.
hey! they integrated a spot welder into that tool! 2 in 1!!!
But it's only one spot, deep inside it, and you don't get to choose when it welds...
@A2000MHz that's the exciting part.
I've never owned a Ryobi but I thought they're decent quality. Thanks for this video.
I always buy cheap tools I only intend on using once. Bought a palm nailer from harbor freight just for one deck project. It last just for that deck.
Are the lower speeds actually useful? Why *not* just replace the switch entirely?
Replace the switch with a better one. Fixed!
It looks like you have model P2108. I found the replacement switch in stock for $21.49 at eReplacements. If I were you, I’d buy one and replace it.
That's awesome! I usually go to repair clinic for parts like this but they have nothing for it. But I'm not just gonna put the new switch in like it is, I will add a relay to handle the current from the battery to the motor. Unless they have updated the design.
Add a snubber network across the switch contacts to catch some of that arc energy.. maybe this is more advice to Ryobi as fitting any more components in that switch is gonna be tight :-)
Doesn't it already have a snubber diode? Granted its not connected which could be most of the problem.
Hold on.. That loose diode isn't some sort of avalanche breakdown diode across the switch to suppress surges is it? Maybe that's why it's been burning so much?
I broke it off right there trying to pry the switch open. The solder couldn't have been great but it was connected until I put my screwdriver in there.
@@A2000MHz The joint could've been as dry as a dead dingo's donger (as DaveEEVBlog would say)
The diode would suppress any back emf when the motor is stopped (short the high voltage reverse polarity to ground).
Why does everybody always feel the need to shame certain brands? Maybe Ryobi isn't the most high performance brand but I can tell you one thing, in the small right angle grinder niche, they make the best one that there is, with a variable speed trigger and it's smooth as hell. Way better than the equivalent from Makita or Milwaukee. Way way better. They typically have more innovative stuff, even if they're not super high performance. I think the days of shaming Ryobi should be over. Update: okay I admit that as a shitty switch though...
Poor Paul: Australians have a cheaper option called Ozito. Much cheaper but much greater value for money. Yes we have Ryobi too and I use them tools with much success.
And you don't have any weed whackers down there, they're all whipper snippers
@@A2000MHz No gas stations either, we call them Bowsers. Liqueur stores are called Bottle-O and women Sheilas...
@@LawpickingLocksmith Oh fair suck of the sav. 😁
I keep coming back to this video hoping you have found a better fix. I have a replacement switch, but I keep repairing the affected contact. Any updates? I may just replace it with a toggle. An 18V high current relay might work… I just need time to sit down a draw out the schematic.
This is still operating with this last fix in place. It is acting strange lately, I think the low speeds are now failing. I think I will have to replace the switch before this year leaf season. Then I will look into adding a relay for the high speed.
I'm sure the switch is the issue as said. Not fixing the diode would cause back emf to hit the switch when you let go of the trigger. The back emf would surely cause arcing as well, adding to the problem.
I would of given that switch the same salute Paul
these types of engineering choices are often a compounding set of mistakes that have multiple parties to blame... engineers cut corners, qa teams don't test this failure case, inspection agencies don't validate that this dangerous design issues, and it's a disposable consumerist society so the data from the failed versions doesn't get back to the manufacturer... next thing you know you've got a massive recall and billions of dollars in class action lawsuits...
building physical products at scale is one of the hardest problems
It's amazing with the way you put it. The design had to go threw at least a few people before it got put into production. This is buried inside the unit where nobody would think to look. I wonder if the original design called for a relay like I want to install into the system but got cost cut out. And nobody thought to change the switch for something more suited. I just don't want to believe that any engineer, corner cutting or not, would spec a slow acting contact for a high amperage device.
@@A2000MHz a big concern I’ve seen is that in the “data driven” engineering world, unfortunately an engineer may not have access to all the information they need to make an effective decision at each stage of the process
Picture this - an annual report that shows cost for different parts of the BOM across the entire ryobi product line, some alternatives, and maybe some baseline qa testing results. If the report doesn’t properly show the operating conditions of each product or what kind of power draw can be expected it’s so easy to miss a significant change in the design of the replacement being selected, especially if you’re maybe getting a bulk discount from a supplier for a part that you can use across a dozen different products. And hey maybe 11/12 of those products have a better design where there’s a separate relay for the high-amperage circuit controlled by the cheaper part so it’s nbd
but unless either a) it’s entirely clear in the data that there’s a problem in the design or b) you’re regularly combing through the operating parameters of every part in your BOM for every decision you make in the supply chain and design process, these types of things are bound to fall through the cracks
Just one of the reasons I’m excited to see how AI could be leveraged to process design files, BOMs, pricing, and be a tool that engineers can use at each step of the process to make sure these things don’t get missed
Mine is only 4 months old and used probably 20 times. It already is having issues. Only 14 going to the motor with a fully charged battery. I replaced the switch will be ok for a while. Poor design. I love all my other Ryobi tools.
Thanks Paul and extra words just for the algorithim and FFS I can't spell algorithm. 🤦♂
Perhaps Beyond Economical Repair.
Yea, I don't think I would ever do this repair for anyone. The leaf blower is only $160 with a battery and charger. This is a do-it-yourself or a find-a-nephew-to-do-it kind of job.
ewwww imperial tools! I hope you have a metric section
"The metric system is the tool of the devil! My car gets forty rods to the hogshead, and that’s the way I likes it!" -Abe Simpson
See if there is a trauma centre for Ryobi switch repair victims in NY.
the realest tool is that nerf gun lol
Not using a diesel V8 powered leaf annihilator? _cringe_
Was that really necessary? Who gives a FUk what people say or think. Common are we in elementary again?
You're right! I don't give a "FUk" what you think! I made a video that I had fun with and enjoyed making. If you don't like it, kick rocks!
Shame! Shame!
ryobi have decent tools, just terrible batteries
The battereis are all made to be backwards compatible.
What's wrong with the battery?
I've only ever had problems with their batteries after 5+ years of use or from physical abuse/mishandling.
I take that back, I had one of their 40v batteries arrive DOA and their warranty team got me a replacement battery within a few days.
I've got about 10 of their 18v batteries in my garage currently with an odd assortment of tools to go with them. I have moved to the 40v platform for the heavier load yard tools.
I've had good luck with their batteries overall.
Sunny! I would love to see a tool review video from Sunny. It would probably be hilarious