ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- The Charger R/T has been experiencing some pretty bad tuning issues. In this video, I discuss the possible causes and what I think the issues are attributed to. I hope to get the stuff worked out so that I can start uploading more of the interesting content we discussed, like performance testing at the track. Once I get the tuning issues figured out on this Cammed 2016 Charger R/T, we will get some 0-60s and possibly some track times.
If you're interested, please subscribe using this link:
bit.ly/2xPqVGg
Instagram: Donnyrt_yt
Some of my other videos:
CAMMED Charger R/T: First Impressions:
bit.ly/31vkTcc
Charger R/T: 392 Intake Manifold, Adding Midrange Power:
bit.ly/30Hsd5P
Charger R/T JBA Long Tubes, Catless Mid-pipes:
bit.ly/376ypUg
CAMMED Charger R/T First Startup:
bit.ly/3a9BgyU
Mod List:
JLT Intake
Borla S-Type Mufflers, Resonator Delete
Diablo Trinity T2 Tuner
180 Degree T-Stat
JBA Long Tube Headers
3.09 Limited Slip Differential
392 Intake Manifold
Mild Cam
Hey y'all. Just to clarify: I am NOT downplaying any tuner's work in this video, nor am I saying I don't trust their work. The tuner I am working with is incredibly kind and has a great reputation in the Mopar community. Unfortunately, this is what you gotta deal with when you start modding cars!
The stress is real man. I think its apart of our hobby lol it will get better! Jay will get it. Have you tried calling him speaking voice to voice?
Jay is awesome. I've talked to him on the phone quite a few times. You're right bro - this kinda stuff is part of the game
Mine used to do the same thing and it took weeks of back and forth with my tuner to finally get it right. Dyno tune would be quicker for sure. I went through all the same things and even had it smoke tested. If your tuner is who I think it is ;-), he will get it figured out.
Sounds like I'm on the same track you were on then - seems pretty common actually. Thanks for tuning in man. Love how Shake n Bake is doing!
@@DonnySRT thanks brother! It will all work out, just going to take time.
You'll get it sorted out Donny! I feel bad for you 8 speed guys because it's harder to save your idle with an auto vs my 6 speed, where I can easily give it more gas as I'm letting the clutch out which makes it a smoother transition getting going from low speeds like in parking lots that you mentioned. I went for a dyno tune session yesterday. It was only partially successful, we had what Chris my tuner said was a software issue with HP Tuners. When we left off I was getting 400 hp to the wheels which was 20-30 under what I was shooting for, but we were having problems turning the neural network off so we could adjust the volumetric efficiency especially in the upper rpm. We'd tell it to give us 115, all the way up to 140 % just trying to make the car respond to the command we were giving it, but it wouldn't. I guess HP recently updated their software marketing that it works so well with the neural network, where we need to turn it off and input the values we need to get it running as best it can. My tuner was frustrated and apologized telling me to come back for a free session on saturday so he'd have a chance to get in touch with HP Tuners and figure out what was going on with their software and get that solved so we could finish it off properly and get the most out of the tune. I will say that Chris adjusted it so when I'm hitting it hard and let off suddenly it does catch its idle smoother and more quickly as opposed to before where it would take a second before it would get back to idle. I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm also pretty sure though that it's not a mechanical issue or anything you did with your install, other wise you'd be getting other problems popping up. It'll get sorted out, it's just annoying in the meantime. Find a good tuner you can throw that thing on a dyno with and they should be able to iron out the problems. The thing is this cam isn't really all that aggressive, Chris was telling me he's tuned way gnarlier cams in Hemis and hasnt had any problems getting them to run good, we'll get it sorted out. Cheers man.
Man it sounds like everyone is having some sort of issue with their tunes right now. I greatly appreciate you getting back to me and I’m glad to hear you guys made some progress as well. I think you’re right about the mechanical thing lol. I’ll keep you updated. Thank you for checking in!
DonnyR/T Okay, got my tune sorted today, found our issue and got the car responding to the commands we were implementing in the tune and any of the idle hesitation or slow speed feeling like you had to be a little careful not to stall it is now totally gone. I’m going to make an update video so you guys can see what it’s acting like now as well as some performance numbers but I feel like if you guys with the automatic transmissions that were having the biggest idle issues were able to throw a tune on like this you’d have no problems driving the car in stop and go traffic.
I shut my idle sensor off
Addiction motorsports in simi Valley does awesome work Eddie is a great tuner an than MPR motorsports down in socal lake Elsinore area they also do amazing work , if you want to get it dyno an fined tune all the bugs worked out to recommend those two shops , glad to see the RT almost done , just part of the game when it comes to modding , hope you guys figure it out soon brotha.
Appreciate the support man. Thank you for the suggestions. There are little kinks and stuff we are still working out, but I am glad to be able to drive the car at least!
Look up video "How to get your HEMI to idle after chaning the cam" by @RecklessMotorsportsUSA .... good info here.
Just got your message on instagram. I'll check it out! Thank you for forwarding it to me
Have you ever considered installing a wide band? Its a solid way to monitor how your AFR is in real time. It would probably help your tuner dial in your tune more also. Jay suggested instal one and after I did he worked his magic and squeezed more power outta my 5.7.
To be honest I have considered one. I just have to worry about mounting it and stuff. Tuners are having a tough time with this cam in general because it’s less than a year old too
@@DonnySRT speedlogix sells the pillar. I recommend the wide band it will only make the tune process easier for your tuner.
I continued to have issues with mine even after the tuning was perfect, we could not figure out what was wrong. We pulled the valve covers found the rocker arms had play, I started to notice my lope was not as pronounced as it used to be then finally pulled the heads and found that after 4K miles on the brand new cam one of the damn hellcat lifters failed and ate the lobe off the cam. This was my 3rd cam in the car, I put a stock one back in and sold it. I hope you figure it man, this was my second hemi build and the second time I have had cam and lifter issues. I’ll never own another hemi again, moving into an LS3.
I'm also thinking with a aftermarket camshaft with about 500 miles there's probably a good possibility the rocker arms need the valve lash readjusted.
Shawn Arnold 100 agreed, I went as far as ordering Stanke motorsports rocker arm stabilizers and collars but we never got them on because it was too late. If anyone needs them let me know we can work something out.
I'm sorry to hear that man, sounds like a pain in the ass. The logs currently indicate that I have a fueling issue. I am going to pursue that before I start blaming mechanical failures
DonnyR/T I wish you the very best of luck man.
Check your slap stick setting
I know it's costly to try another tuner, but I would suggest Jay Greene. He has custom cams,and tuning. Might be a help. Also, try the additive " Race Gas " it may help if octane is an issue
Yea. I am scheduling an appointment to have it dyno tuned here soon. I don't drive the car very frequently so it's not a huge deal. Thankfully on the current tune it's at least drivable
Me too. I have an appointment with the dyno tune on Saturday. Mine does all the same stuff. Mine seems really rich. I have had 7 tunes updated. Just doesn't work. Took it to the tuner. He said it will be fine after a dyno tune. All the same issues. Surging like it wants to take off without gas. Jerks forward surging. At highway speed its pretty good. Sometimes it will just die. I will post on here to let you know how it goes.
I've been waiting eagerly to hear how your dyno appointment goes.
Now that's what I call a sticky situation. 😬
sounds sumthing mayb with the mds did u delete it installing the cam
MDS system is gone. Replaced all of the lifters with non-mds ones.
Awesome Donnie《☆》Looks like you have plenty of input from the R/T nation🤓👍🏾Good luck Brother. I'm hoping it's something simple & cheap♧:*: Greetings from⛾Florida🤳my friend🤓🗣🔊☮✌👍🏾
Absolutely! I'm very grateful for this community. Gonna take the car for a dyno tune and I think that will be the fix.
Does your tuner have the ability to turn off the VVT?
If yes, I’d try it
I'll ask the tuner about that
There no point in camming a car if you dont do a MDS delete
You may have to ship it out of town. Look up fast lane performance in Atlanta.. they do awesome dyno tunes.
I hear there's a pretty good amount of tuners out there. Im jealous...
Sounds like you need a higher stall torque converter. Stock torque converters don’t like choppy cams. They cause idle issues while in gear at a stop like yours. Im in the process of ordering everything for a comp cams 274 swap with a 3,000-3,200 rpm stall converter from High Horse Performance. Basically I’m going to mock their challenger which made 454rwhp with bolt one, cam and tune. I came across your channel doing all my research on finding the best setup to go with. Good vids. Keep it up and good luck.
Thank you for the input! The cam isn't very large. It's a baby cam compared to the 274, and it shouldn't require a stall (although it sounds like thats the issue). I have bogging issues even when in park, which leads me to believe it's a fueling thing. Taking it to a dyno soon, and will see if afr is off
Raised mine too. 1000rpm. Runs okay for a minute, then will chug down and die. Then starts right back up. Also, it takes an extra second too start. Like the starter drags where it used to fire up instantly.
Some have speculated that it's maybe a leaky injector. When mine dies, it doesn't want to fire back up. Needs some throttle. But it isn't dying that often anymore- it just wants to lol. Having the a/c on seems to remedy it but I'm not entirely sure why
@@DonnySRT it would be strange if we both had a leaking injector. Mine is the Comp Cam Stage 2 HRT cam as well. I had the Scat Pack Stage 2 kit on my last Challenger, but it also had a preprogrammed pcm too. No issues with that car.
That's true. Who are you tuned by again?
@@DonnySRT Hemifever
@@DonnySRT All is good. I took it to Deepstage Tuning in Norman,Ok.
Great guy. Tells you everything that did or what needs to be done and why and how it affects the tune.
I am dialed in now. My email tune was too rich, they had the timing too advanced and locked at 15 degrees.
Idle was off which I already knew.
He modified quite of few parameters. The timing and fuel being key.
Also, the email trans tune was too high if shift points.
I drove home for an hour. Ran great. No more engine knock sound. It was having detonation in the cylinders.
Accelerates great. The idle is pretty great. Sometimes you feel a little jerk while at park, but it is not hard at all and not like it was doing. He said thats just a cam in general.
No more dying at all. He used HP Tuners. He did a dyno and street tuned afterwards.
$685 total. Made 407hp to wheels. 396 in torque.
He said could be better but my air intake was reading 132F. Its actually 88F outside.
I forgot to address the elephant in the room: numerous tuners and hemi builders have told me that my cam grind should work fine with stock torque converter. An aftermarket one may be in the future, but I am still deciding what's next. Let me know what you guys think
Hey man there is only 2 things I can think of.
1. Did you have to degree the cam once installed or just make sure the timing was right?
2. Find a good dyno tuner that has good reviews and knows Hemis and take it to them and let them dyno tune the car.
Because a Dyno tune as you know is the best way to have your car tuned and they see real time logs and can adjust it on the fly. I went the dyno tune route where I stay at and I looked over there reviews and asked if they knew about hemis and got my tune and I’m nothing but happy nothing against the email tuners but that’s the best route good luck.
Hey. We set the timing marks and didn't look back. The logs aren't indicative of and incorrect mechanical timing (thank god, was a pain in the ass taking the front cover off). I have two shops that are good with hemis I am looking at. It seems that my issues are nowhere near as bad as some other people are experiencing, so I am thankful for that. You're spot on with the dyno tune thing
DonnyR/T okay that’s good man I’m happy you aren’t having bigger issues I like seeing your vids. Also I was close to doing the email tune route but after speaking to a buddy that tunes Honda’s he was telling me that if a person knows how to tune one and can see real life data that they are just as good as a email tuner so I went that route with a dyno tuner after looking around and I’m highly impressed me and you have the same exact mods except I’m on stock cam and 2.65 rear gear and your dyno sheet and mine is dead on like the exact same
DonnyR/T in the past when I was asking you about the rpm box and the way the wires go on the connector to the SRV is because when I got my dyno tune I didn’t have it hooked up right so my intake was stuck in long runner mode and I was mad with my dyno results but now that I fixed the wiring on the connector is works and when I got it re dynoed I put the same numbers as you down but I’m going to do the 392 cam and record it and start my TH-cam off of that and show that the LX A5 chargers are monsters too
Im glad to hear that you got that worked out, and that my results are replicable. I'll get this damn thing figured out here soon! Good luck with your cam swap
Take it to fullblown in LA
I'll check them out
Same thing with my buddies 392 jay got it fixed i believe also it seemed to fix itself after a few weeks of driving 🤷
It could be possible that you just got some shitty gas
Yea man. Some cars just seem to be super temperamental. I've tried multiple gas stations and different brands but that's still a possibility. I've put about 500 miles on it so I would have hoped it would have fixed itself already
@@DonnySRT fuse pull?
Which fuse are you thinking? Fuel pump?
@@DonnySRT sorry the pcm fuse to reset the adaptives
@@glockmodder I'll check that out. I've pulled the battery 10+ times and done a throttle relearn every time. I wonder if the fuse thing will help
I wonder if the mds has anything to do with it...? Have you done a mds delete?
I replaced all of the lifters with non-mds ones since my cam grind wouldn't work with MDS
@@DonnySRT yea then I think you're right it must be tune related
Regardless, I appreciate all suggestions and input that you have!
@@DonnySRT anytime bro! 5.7 guys stick together lol. I'm sure I'll have a tuning nightmare with mine. Forging it. Boost cam kit, head work, 392 intake manifold and 75mm turbo lol
@@MOEpar345 Hell yea bro. I just checked out your channel. Can't wait to see the build progress
You state it's a mild cam. Could you please post the exact model of cam you are using. As it could be a issue with the HRT cam shafts from comp cams. As they are a very new cam and the tuners have not figured out the setups yet. They had the same problem with the 270 and 274 camshafts when they first came out. GL
HRT Stage 2. Very similar to Comp Cam 270.
@@DonnySRT close but I believe the line separation is different and that could be where things get weird
I agree with you on that
Mine was dyno tuned today with the Stage 2 HRT. Had all the same issues. It's all good now.
MPR Motorsports poc: Lonnie Bartley 31947 Corydon Rd, Unit 130 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 why dont you check with them?
Thank you for the reference
@@DonnySRT i cant wait to see the finall product and see how much power you putting down.
Man is it true that rt drod and rush shift were raided by the cops for street racing?
I’m thinking it’s your VVT causing the problem. Did you install a cam phaser limiter with your cam?
Yup. Limiter installed. The directions were pretty straightforward.
Dude can u direct me to your boys channel the one who was gona supercharge his rt
His channel name is RT Drod
Sure sounds like a tuneing issue keep up with the logs sounds like your just working out the kinks .
Yes, car drives beautifully as long as I'm not coming to a stop lol. Will get it figured out soon enough
I would get your multimeter out and start tracing ignition plumbing to confirm ohm readings. Sounds like an electrical problem that you’re blaming on programming logic.
Also, where is your digital wideband? A dynamometer tech would be chasing their tail thinking it’s mechanical just like you currently are.
Trust me - I've taken the multimeter to every wire that I touched when I did the intake manifold wiring. The car seems to act up when it's up to operating temp and in a closed loop control circuit. When the car is cold and it's in open-loop form it's fine. I would assume that if it was a grounding issue or something it would show up more often. But I will take your advice and check again
Have you tried switching back to a pre-cam tune for S&Gs when it’s already at operating temp. How aggressive is your cam from like a 206/222? Obviously keep it out of open loop during testing...
Actually I haven't tried that. Ill give it a shot. It's a 220/230
DonnyR/T yeah that’s a little more top end rowdy for what we use in the trucks. Good luck!
It’s an r/t that’s What’s wrong with it