Hi Bjorn. You guys Marcus, and Elbilmek. Remember Hyundai doesn't charge the 12v batt when main batt is below 35%. I don't know if this had anything to do on that. Just a reminder. 🙂
Valdemar is such cool guy. I really like to see you two work together. And I'm looking forward to see some real world tests with the old Ioniq. Keep up the good work!
12 volt flat battery? Disable convenience mirror setting. Noise when going over bumps? Change wheel bolts. The bolts are moving around in the bolt holes. I promise this will resolve these issues. Regarding BMS, I believe the car starts with 110% so even with 10% degradation it will still show 100%, only after that it will drop. Did 92,000 miles and it still showed 100% on Car Scanner.
The 12V of my dads Kona drained completely a while ago because he didn't closed the trunk door properly. His solution for that was to remove the bulb for the trunk lighting.
Also helps to replace trunk light bulb with a LED bulb. Did this on my Camry. LED bulb only uses 1 watt vs 4 watts for original 194 bulb. And it is brighter.
We have a Kia E Niro MY20 and 12V has been perfect in over three years of family use. On the UK owners Facebook group a few owners reported 19/20/21 models had 12V fault but in every case there was an explanation - user error. Either they had used infotainment for an extended period with traction battery off or left boot unlocked. Many new owners assume that battery power always comes from 64kWh battery and sit in the car playing with infotainment screen. PICNIC - problem in chair not in car.
Wifey & me, each drive Zoe 110 ZE50 for 3 years. We recently had a discussion, we would like to have the ModelY but we love the Zoe's & had no problems so far, i now need to service the rear brakes as there is rust all over, that's it, i would definitely buy again if needed replace the Zoe with Zoe ❤❤😅😅
Since 4 years I have an OBD dongle plugged in ti my Ioniq, I also have „Battery savety“ active since I first heard about it more than 4 years ago. I‘m curious what reason you find. My car was not used several times for more than 5 weeks and the loss in the main battery was never more than half a percent according to EVNotify. Best wishes, Karl
With the ioniq it's possible to leave the car when it's still on, working on 12V. It happens when you press the stop button without pressing the brake pedal. I had a dead 12V battery twice at the beginning. Since then, i always press the brake pedal when pressing the off button and no issue. This car is not used a lot and have stayed in the garage for several days without charging, no issue with the 12V. Battery care(12V) is working from time to time.
Do you mean turning it off from drive mode with Start/Stop + brake? I'm been driving my Ioniq for 4.5 years now and I'm sure I never used the combination of stop button and brake to turn it off. Still on my first 12V battery and I'm also only using my car a few times a week and it's not connected in my garage since I don't have any home charging possibility.
@@jimboswe Yes. Also, if you do the same to drive (press start without braking) you're on the 12v. As it was for ICE cars, when you turn the key you have the 12v on first and then the ignition. My problems occured when i didn't brake while pressing off and leaving the car unlocked.
I have never heard of this. When turning the car on without pressing the break pedal yes then only 12 volt activates. But when turning off there is no need to press break pedal. If this is the case with your car then something is wrong with it. 🔧
Interesting about the 12v battery test. We had a an issue with the 12v going flat in our 2017 Ioniq. Hyundai sent it away to the manufacture and they said it was good. We bought a new battery and haven't been having any issues with it. Lots of people reporting 12v issues with the Ioniq. We're on our second 12v in 3 years. We live in NZ so our climate isn't particulalrly harsh. I've noticed the same issue of current draw even after the car is switched off and locked. After several minutes it eventually dropped.
The Aux Battery Saver+ feature only wakes up and has a sniff of the voltage once a day, if a phantom drain or light left on kills the 12V before that then you're out of luck. The ground strap recall included an ECU update that changes the interval to four (six?) times a day, which is much better, but still not perfect.
I used to have an Ionic where the lid for the trunk bounced sometimes. The trunk was locked but not completely closed. When that happened, the lights in the cabin didn't go off - even for several hours.
I had the problem with 12V on my 28kWh Ioniq exactly once - when left the position lights for 8 hours after switching off the car. Side note - I heard that the feature to auto fold/unfold mirrors can cause drainage of battery, I always have this feature turned off.
We also had unexplainable 12v drainage, had a battery monitor connected the second time and it showed ~7v. The shop couldn't find anything obvious but replaced the battery and did a software update. Havent had any problems since.
If a door, boot or bonnet has not been shut fully, the warning on the dash display keeps the systems alive for 20 mins and on my Kona it pulls 6.5amps. Enough to drain a sulfated battery that has reduced capacity. if the battery voltage drops to 10v the 12v system will not operate.
From my experience, leaving an ioniq plugged in when fully charged disables the battery saver feature. Leaving the light on when plugged in might kill the 12v.
I've had my 2019 Ioniq Plug-in plugged in for several days unused, and have seen the Battery Saver+ activated message when starting it. The full EV could be different, but I would be surprised if it was.
The batteries hold up. A friend with a 38kWh Ioniq did a commute test from 100% over a week and got 390km with 6% left. Temps hot but he didnt use AC. GOM claims 420km from a full tank of electrons as well now. Car has done 80000km.
ioniq 38kWh from 2020 here. This summer my battery died, going from ok to 6,60 Volt practically overnight. First I attributed it to it having the boot opened for a few hours but after charging it a few days later it was back to under 7 volt. It got replaced and the new one is fine since. I now suspect the Bluelink function sapping energy more than needed.
My 2018 28kWh Ioniq is still doing fine. I succeeded in getting 210km in autumn weather... But the last kilometers were in turtle mode. Still it was a drive home so I took that chance. On other occasions I charge on time of course. I bought it second hand at 1.5 years old so I don't have all the charge history of the car except all the service history etc. I charge 99% at my private AC charger 7kw at home, and very. rarely on DC rapid chargers. Never had a 12V battery die on me as I drive it every work day.
I like that kind of videos much. Gives an idea how used/older EVs might perform or limits in the future. extended contend beside news cars testing on this channel. Thx a lot 👍
You could still have a faulty 12Vdc battery, as it might crash under load. The only way to test that site is unfortunate a proper load tester. A proper one will either do the calculation itself or you can calculate the AH over a specific time.
Hi Bjorn try installing a battery monitor to see how it behaves over a few weeks. I know if the main battery is below a certain level it won't maintain the 12 volt battery.
I had an issue with ioniq28 from 2018 this spring. I drove about 300 km with few charging stops. Set car to charge and after we came back, car give an error : "Check Vechile Electrical System". It is as an electric car... I was suspecting it was 12volt since I seen it other people had similar problems. But I had no tools at all. After the error I switched to 22kw AC charger and the car managed to charge to 100% but setting it to Drive would give an error.. we slept at the hotel since it was sunday evening and got the car towed to the Hyundai dealer in Germany Monday morning. There they checked it and after few hours told me it was a problem with the electric motor and I'm not covered by warranty. The price would be 5000 euro and few months to get the jobe done. but it could also be a High voltage cable or even something else and the guy from service told me at this point car is worth nothing and I should just sell it for 5000 euros if I can. Germans really loves electric cars... I thought for 5k I can learn to fix the car my self. In the service they discharged the car completely and I could not even lock the car - completely dead. So I took a battery came back to the Netherlands, charge 12 volt battery , found a Driver gave it to him. Mmy reasoing was that he would need it to put it in to Neutral gear. He did not speak English to good so after few days he brought my car and just drove it of the truck. He did not understood that there was something wrong with the car. I was very happy and very sad since we end up spending close to 1000 euros. I used autel ap200 to read the error codes and it gave me 5 errors, 4 were saying low 12 volt voltage and 1 more scary. I used the original 12 battery for few more weeks while I was waiting for the new one to arrive. After replacing the 12v battery I drove about 8k km so I assume the motor is fine. My theory was that battery was a bit low and probably at hight load moment like connecting the main battery would for short moment drop the voltage and Computer would get crazy. Just wanted to share this in case it happens to somebody else.
Idk if I trust those quick battery testers Edit: to be a bit more helpful: I've seen them say "good battery" on a bad battery, and specifically on Kias from this era. I dont know if Hyundai used the same batteries. If I take the battery out of the car, to the parts store, they run a test that takes about an hour.
There is a video by Endfloat on here that traces a rattle / squeak to the bolts holding the rear spoiler. Might be worth a look. I’m so interested in seeing how you do with this car because I have the same (2019) model. Thanks for posting
My MG 4 recently discharge the 12Volt battery. We had been shopping and had the dog with us so one of us shopped at a time. To stay warm I left the car live and the heating on. On my return, after it being in this running state for over an hour, the car was completely dead. Luckily I had a battery pack with me that immediately revived the car. On my part of the shopping trip I inadvertently took the key with me and wondered if that had stopped the battery top up from the traction battery?
My 2017 Ioniq got his first 12 volt battery. Never start ignition without push the brake pedal. Because the battery will not be charged. The battery charges when car is completely off or when it's in drive mode.
On my ioniq, squiking dissappear after replacement of stabilisator ends. Cheap and quick repair. I guess is the same. 12v problem cause often by trunk is not properly closed then car is still alive and pulling juice from 12v
7x 12V Battery breakdown in 3 years at Kia eSoul 64kwh - anoying! I am super carefull to close the car via Car Key- not on the door handle- so that all systems are shut down. And super important always to activate utility mode if waiting in the car. 12V is super fast empty
6:44 Bat. Location Out if Vehicle. Does this not mean you have disconect the Batterie from Car. I think they test the internal Resistence of the Batterie. And its an normal Pb Batterie.
The BMS SoH readout in this car (and I believe all Hyundai EVs) is a measure of the BMS's estimation of battery health, not battery degradation. It looks at things like voltage differenc between cells, overall voltage etc. SoH sometimes drops below 100%, but that can be remedied by AC-charging to 100%. I had a 28kWh Ioniq for 5 years and over 250k km, SoH was still at 100% when I sold it, SoH was at 100%, but degradation was 12% or so. This is according to the trained Ioniq technician from Hyundai Switzerland, who did the battery and overall assessment of the car before I sold it.
@@alessandropetta7795 That's difficult to estimate. I usually charged until it throtteled, which was usually at 77% and then ran it down to 5% or so. I never, or at least almost never drove slower to skip a charger. Instead I drove faster towards the end, if I had extra charge to spend. Generally I drove 130kph where possible in Switzerland and 140kph in France. That gave me 120-140km between chargers with roughly 70% of a full charge. This was very reliable, I often drive the same routes and always hit the same chargers and the numbers remained exactly the same over the entire time I owned the car. So I really didn't notice any range loss at all, but that doesn't necessarily mean there wasn't any.
My Memory Buttons for the Seat does not working anymore. But the buttons on the Seat work fine. There are any problems recording? Or im the only one? Hyundai Ioniq Electric from 2017
The mysterious SOH on first Hyundai EVs… I had an Ioniq EV 2017 for 4 years and the SOH never went down (after 60000km). I suspect the system does take into account the 3kWh in excess of the 28kWh. This is why it’s rare that we see a lower SOH. The only other valid test would be a full discharge and then a complete recharge with a smart charger to check the number of kWh recharged.
These ioniqs do not use LED for interior lights, but old fashioned halogen bulbs, that easily draw too much power and drain the battery. I converted mine to LEDs and it's much better now.
I came across an information that ioniqs 28 kw stunden drain the 12v battery excessively through the auto folding of the rear mirrors function. This feature can be disabled in the settings and the problem is solved. Try this hint.
My new (to me) 2016 classic Ioniq has a reported SoH of 98.2% after 200,000 km. The range is great compared with the gen 1.5 LEAF (with heat pump) it replaced. Are those the standard 16" alloys with the bolt-on aero covers removed? I wonder if that reduces the range.
@@mchipelo The strange thing is that for the 38kwh version the BMS SoH can go down...but also to go up. Normally the SoH can't get better over time. That means the reported SoH by the BMS is crap... I also heard from Hyundai forums that some guys with low SoH went to Hyundai and the dealership reset it somehow and showed 100% again.
@@FFVoyager well if I sell you a 30kWh battery which factually has 40 kWh but you can only use 30, you THINK it is brilliant because it stays at 100% for a looooong time when factually you could have used 35-38kWh all the time before. but it is definitely good for the ease of mind of many users, so probably quite clever :)
@@tesla-spectre you can make up any number of dumb imaginary figures you like - you have never been able to access the buffer - which is not 25% of the pack either 🙄(Although Tesla sold a 60D that was actually using a restricted a 75kWh pack) The Ioniq had a 28kWh pack and can use it as such for longer because it doesn't degrade as soon as it's driven out of the showroom.
12v problems in a Hyundai/ Kia is no breking news.. 😂 We had an 2020 Ioniq that had 12v problems, something drains the 12v battery in these cars, with no logical explenation! Wery many Ioniq owners has gone thru (are still going thru) that Shaaaaaait! 😂
12V ist THE weak spot of Hyundai and Kia EVs, almost everyone I know who has early adopted a Soul, a Ioniq, a Kona loves the car, but hates the breakdowns due to an empty 12V battery, it's a shame that the companies have denied that for so long and were not able to fix that up to this day. Sometimes no problem for two years, then you park the car as always, and the next day the battery is completely drained and dead at 7 Volts.... WTF ??? HYUNDAI/KIA fix this god damned !!
Hi Bjorn. You guys Marcus, and Elbilmek. Remember Hyundai doesn't charge the 12v batt when main batt is below 35%. I don't know if this had anything to do on that. Just a reminder. 🙂
Valdemar is such cool guy. I really like to see you two work together. And I'm looking forward to see some real world tests with the old Ioniq. Keep up the good work!
12 volt flat battery? Disable convenience mirror setting.
Noise when going over bumps? Change wheel bolts.
The bolts are moving around in the bolt holes.
I promise this will resolve these issues.
Regarding BMS, I believe the car starts with 110% so even with 10% degradation it will still show 100%, only after that it will drop. Did 92,000 miles and it still showed 100% on Car Scanner.
The 12V of my dads Kona drained completely a while ago because he didn't closed the trunk door properly. His solution for that was to remove the bulb for the trunk lighting.
Also helps to replace trunk light bulb with a LED bulb. Did this on my Camry. LED bulb only uses 1 watt vs 4 watts for original 194 bulb. And it is brighter.
Prius prime has same problem, but it kills the 12v because the computer stays on and displays a message on the screen until DED
We have a Kia E Niro MY20 and 12V has been perfect in over three years of family use. On the UK owners Facebook group a few owners reported 19/20/21 models had 12V fault but in every case there was an explanation - user error. Either they had used infotainment for an extended period with traction battery off or left boot unlocked. Many new owners assume that battery power always comes from 64kWh battery and sit in the car playing with infotainment screen. PICNIC - problem in chair not in car.
Wifey & me, each drive Zoe 110 ZE50 for 3 years. We recently had a discussion, we would like to have the ModelY but we love the Zoe's & had no problems so far, i now need to service the rear brakes as there is rust all over, that's it, i would definitely buy again if needed replace the Zoe with Zoe ❤❤😅😅
Wheeler dealers vibe. Great chemistry between the two of you. Keep up the good work.
Since 4 years I have an OBD dongle plugged in ti my Ioniq, I also have „Battery savety“ active since I first heard about it more than 4 years ago.
I‘m curious what reason you find.
My car was not used several times for more than 5 weeks and the loss in the main battery was never more than half a percent according to EVNotify.
Best wishes, Karl
With the ioniq it's possible to leave the car when it's still on, working on 12V. It happens when you press the stop button without pressing the brake pedal.
I had a dead 12V battery twice at the beginning. Since then, i always press the brake pedal when pressing the off button and no issue. This car is not used a lot and have stayed in the garage for several days without charging, no issue with the 12V. Battery care(12V) is working from time to time.
Do you mean turning it off from drive mode with Start/Stop + brake? I'm been driving my Ioniq for 4.5 years now and I'm sure I never used the combination of stop button and brake to turn it off. Still on my first 12V battery and I'm also only using my car a few times a week and it's not connected in my garage since I don't have any home charging possibility.
@@jimboswe Yes. Also, if you do the same to drive (press start without braking) you're on the 12v.
As it was for ICE cars, when you turn the key you have the 12v on first and then the ignition.
My problems occured when i didn't brake while pressing off and leaving the car unlocked.
I have never heard of this. When turning the car on without pressing the break pedal yes then only 12 volt activates. But when turning off there is no need to press break pedal. If this is the case with your car then something is wrong with it. 🔧
Interesting about the 12v battery test. We had a an issue with the 12v going flat in our 2017 Ioniq. Hyundai sent it away to the manufacture and they said it was good. We bought a new battery and haven't been having any issues with it. Lots of people reporting 12v issues with the Ioniq. We're on our second 12v in 3 years. We live in NZ so our climate isn't particulalrly harsh. I've noticed the same issue of current draw even after the car is switched off and locked. After several minutes it eventually dropped.
The Aux Battery Saver+ feature only wakes up and has a sniff of the voltage once a day, if a phantom drain or light left on kills the 12V before that then you're out of luck. The ground strap recall included an ECU update that changes the interval to four (six?) times a day, which is much better, but still not perfect.
I used to have an Ionic where the lid for the trunk bounced sometimes. The trunk was locked but not completely closed. When that happened, the lights in the cabin didn't go off - even for several hours.
I had the problem with 12V on my 28kWh Ioniq exactly once - when left the position lights for 8 hours after switching off the car.
Side note - I heard that the feature to auto fold/unfold mirrors can cause drainage of battery, I always have this feature turned off.
We also had unexplainable 12v drainage, had a battery monitor connected the second time and it showed ~7v. The shop couldn't find anything obvious but replaced the battery and did a software update. Havent had any problems since.
If a door, boot or bonnet has not been shut fully, the warning on the dash display keeps the systems alive for 20 mins and on my Kona it pulls 6.5amps. Enough to drain a sulfated battery that has reduced capacity. if the battery voltage drops to 10v the 12v system will not operate.
SOH in the Ioniq is different from degradation. It's more an indicator for cell voltage drift.
From my experience, leaving an ioniq plugged in when fully charged disables the battery saver feature.
Leaving the light on when plugged in might kill the 12v.
Aha, this needs to be tested.
I've had my 2019 Ioniq Plug-in plugged in for several days unused, and have seen the Battery Saver+ activated message when starting it. The full EV could be different, but I would be surprised if it was.
The batteries hold up. A friend with a 38kWh Ioniq did a commute test from 100% over a week and got 390km with 6% left. Temps hot but he didnt use AC. GOM claims 420km from a full tank of electrons as well now. Car has done 80000km.
Brave Bjørn with that degradation comparison! 😂😂😂
ioniq 38kWh from 2020 here. This summer my battery died, going from ok to 6,60 Volt practically overnight. First I attributed it to it having the boot opened for a few hours but after charging it a few days later it was back to under 7 volt. It got replaced and the new one is fine since. I now suspect the Bluelink function sapping energy more than needed.
My 2018 28kWh Ioniq is still doing fine. I succeeded in getting 210km in autumn weather... But the last kilometers were in turtle mode. Still it was a drive home so I took that chance. On other occasions I charge on time of course.
I bought it second hand at 1.5 years old so I don't have all the charge history of the car except all the service history etc. I charge 99% at my private AC charger 7kw at home, and very. rarely on DC rapid chargers.
Never had a 12V battery die on me as I drive it every work day.
I like that kind of videos much. Gives an idea how used/older EVs might perform or limits in the future. extended contend beside news cars testing on this channel. Thx a lot 👍
I killed the 12v on my Ioniq 28 by leaving the trunk door open for 20 minutes. Had to replace the battery as it couldn't hold the charge after that.
I had a problem i my mo2019 kona the motor in the pasenger seat wass on so it drained the 12v battery.
You could still have a faulty 12Vdc battery, as it might crash under load. The only way to test that site is unfortunate a proper load tester. A proper one will either do the calculation itself or you can calculate the AH over a specific time.
The Electro Hobby Club Oslo! I like it, more of this, more detail. Curious if you can get the floodwd M3 running again.
Hi Bjorn try installing a battery monitor to see how it behaves over a few weeks. I know if the main battery is below a certain level it won't maintain the 12 volt battery.
The Niro shuts off its online connection after 3 days. I would expect a power draw at least that long.
I had an issue with ioniq28 from 2018 this spring.
I drove about 300 km with few charging stops. Set car to charge and after we came back, car give an error : "Check Vechile Electrical System". It is as an electric car... I was suspecting it was 12volt since I seen it other people had similar problems. But I had no tools at all.
After the error I switched to 22kw AC charger and the car managed to charge to 100% but setting it to Drive would give an error..
we slept at the hotel since it was sunday evening and got the car towed to the Hyundai dealer in Germany Monday morning.
There they checked it and after few hours told me it was a problem with the electric motor and I'm not covered by warranty.
The price would be 5000 euro and few months to get the jobe done. but it could also be a High voltage cable or even something else and the guy from service told me at this point car is worth nothing and I should just sell it for 5000 euros if I can. Germans really loves electric cars...
I thought for 5k I can learn to fix the car my self. In the service they discharged the car completely and I could not even lock the car - completely dead.
So I took a battery came back to the Netherlands, charge 12 volt battery , found a Driver gave it to him. Mmy reasoing was that he would need it to put it in to Neutral gear.
He did not speak English to good so after few days he brought my car and just drove it of the truck. He did not understood that there was something wrong with the car.
I was very happy and very sad since we end up spending close to 1000 euros.
I used autel ap200 to read the error codes and it gave me 5 errors, 4 were saying low 12 volt voltage and 1 more scary.
I used the original 12 battery for few more weeks while I was waiting for the new one to arrive.
After replacing the 12v battery I drove about 8k km so I assume the motor is fine.
My theory was that battery was a bit low and probably at hight load moment like connecting the main battery would for short moment drop the voltage and Computer would get crazy.
Just wanted to share this in case it happens to somebody else.
Idk if I trust those quick battery testers
Edit: to be a bit more helpful: I've seen them say "good battery" on a bad battery, and specifically on Kias from this era. I dont know if Hyundai used the same batteries. If I take the battery out of the car, to the parts store, they run a test that takes about an hour.
There is a video by Endfloat on here that traces a rattle / squeak to the bolts holding the rear spoiler. Might be worth a look. I’m so interested in seeing how you do with this car because I have the same (2019) model. Thanks for posting
My MG 4 recently discharge the 12Volt battery. We had been shopping and had the dog with us so one of us shopped at a time. To stay warm I left the car live and the heating on. On my return, after it being in this running state for over an hour, the car was completely dead. Luckily I had a battery pack with me that immediately revived the car. On my part of the shopping trip I inadvertently took the key with me and wondered if that had stopped the battery top up from the traction battery?
My 2017 Ioniq got his first 12 volt battery. Never start ignition without push the brake pedal. Because the battery will not be charged. The battery charges when car is completely off or when it's in drive mode.
I always push the brakes. Maybe Marcus didn't.
@@bjornnyland yes perhaps.
Ahh, sheeeet, these wife jokes can backfire ugly ! These series of kind of old EV's have been great !
On my ioniq, squiking dissappear after replacement of stabilisator ends. Cheap and quick repair. I guess is the same. 12v problem cause often by trunk is not properly closed then car is still alive and pulling juice from 12v
7x 12V Battery breakdown in 3 years at Kia eSoul 64kwh - anoying! I am super carefull to close the car via Car Key- not on the door handle- so that all systems are shut down. And super important always to activate utility mode if waiting in the car. 12V is super fast empty
that's why I always carry this device charged in the car: BASEUS Jump Starter Power Bank 12V Booster for Car Start 20000mAh
6:44 Bat. Location Out if Vehicle. Does this not mean you have disconect the Batterie from Car. I think they test the internal Resistence of the Batterie. And its an normal Pb Batterie.
It is the same as it's disconnected because dcdc not on
Exist any battery upgrade for that car?
The BMS SoH readout in this car (and I believe all Hyundai EVs) is a measure of the BMS's estimation of battery health, not battery degradation. It looks at things like voltage differenc between cells, overall voltage etc. SoH sometimes drops below 100%, but that can be remedied by AC-charging to 100%. I had a 28kWh Ioniq for 5 years and over 250k km, SoH was still at 100% when I sold it, SoH was at 100%, but degradation was 12% or so. This is according to the trained Ioniq technician from Hyundai Switzerland, who did the battery and overall assessment of the car before I sold it.
Degradation was sure 12%, but how much real range was lost at 250k km?
@@alessandropetta7795 That's difficult to estimate. I usually charged until it throtteled, which was usually at 77% and then ran it down to 5% or so. I never, or at least almost never drove slower to skip a charger. Instead I drove faster towards the end, if I had extra charge to spend. Generally I drove 130kph where possible in Switzerland and 140kph in France. That gave me 120-140km between chargers with roughly 70% of a full charge. This was very reliable, I often drive the same routes and always hit the same chargers and the numbers remained exactly the same over the entire time I owned the car. So I really didn't notice any range loss at all, but that doesn't necessarily mean there wasn't any.
I bet Bjørn slept on the couch after that video😂
You should most definitely take the RAV for proper testing :)
the type2-type1 adapter usually supports 7.4kW (32A)
20:23 RIP Bjorn!
14:56 It was the mouse in the frunk ;-)
My Memory Buttons for the Seat does not working anymore. But the buttons on the Seat work fine. There are any problems recording? Or im the only one?
Hyundai Ioniq Electric from 2017
Let bjorn try it out he will make it work or not
So the kia and hyundai are lying about battery degredation?
Keep upp the good work with all awesome videos👍👌
The mysterious SOH on first Hyundai EVs… I had an Ioniq EV 2017 for 4 years and the SOH never went down (after 60000km). I suspect the system does take into account the 3kWh in excess of the 28kWh. This is why it’s rare that we see a lower SOH. The only other valid test would be a full discharge and then a complete recharge with a smart charger to check the number of kWh recharged.
bjorn do the 1k challenge in the rav4 with AC .now thats a real challenge.
Is 12v battery charging box ticked in the menu?
10:14
These ioniqs do not use LED for interior lights, but old fashioned halogen bulbs, that easily draw too much power and drain the battery. I converted mine to LEDs and it's much better now.
I came across an information that ioniqs 28 kw stunden drain the 12v battery excessively through the auto folding of the rear mirrors function. This feature can be disabled in the settings and the problem is solved. Try this hint.
My new (to me) 2016 classic Ioniq has a reported SoH of 98.2% after 200,000 km. The range is great compared with the gen 1.5 LEAF (with heat pump) it replaced.
Are those the standard 16" alloys with the bolt-on aero covers removed? I wonder if that reduces the range.
Those are the winter tyre rims delivered as standard in Norway.
yes this is normal. the Mouses is having a feast when you park the car outside.
Very intesting video
You will be in trouble if wifey hears about this comparison :-) Pretty funny though!
Oh man! I think in his next video poor Bjorn will appear with a big black eye after his joke about Wifey's degradation report 🙂😛
You mentioned there must have been a mouse or something in there. Wouldn't that explain he squeaking? 😈
Maybe the squeaking was the mouse.
1:55 "Schmutz". Waldemar is learning from the master.
❤❤❤
age kills 12 v normal lifespan is 3-6 year
I think so too, plus if you have "discharged" it below 50% it will degrade and lose some of it's life expectancy
28kWh sounds impossibly small to be useful, especially in winter
Define winter. At 15kWh/100km it's still 160+ km.
The 28 doesn't show the real SoH. Test a 38kwh Ioniq. You will be surprised by the SoH reported by BMS😂
When I bought mine it showed 99,96% SoH with 35000km
@@mchipelo The strange thing is that for the 38kwh version the BMS SoH can go down...but also to go up. Normally the SoH can't get better over time. That means the reported SoH by the BMS is crap... I also heard from Hyundai forums that some guys with low SoH went to Hyundai and the dealership reset it somehow and showed 100% again.
Ioniq Classic uses a huuuuuuge buffer ao that it can always show 100% SoH 😂😂😂
Hyundai were very sensible as it still has 100% usable. 👍
@@FFVoyager well if I sell you a 30kWh battery which factually has 40 kWh but you can only use 30, you THINK it is brilliant because it stays at 100% for a looooong time when factually you could have used 35-38kWh all the time before. but it is definitely good for the ease of mind of many users, so probably quite clever :)
@@tesla-spectre you can make up any number of dumb imaginary figures you like - you have never been able to access the buffer - which is not 25% of the pack either 🙄(Although Tesla sold a 60D that was actually using a restricted a 75kWh pack)
The Ioniq had a 28kWh pack and can use it as such for longer because it doesn't degrade as soon as it's driven out of the showroom.
@@FFVoyager that would be the first NMC battery that has the wonder of zero degradation :)))
@@tesla-spectre of course it will degrade - but you won't be affected by it for a long time. 🙄
12v problems in a Hyundai/ Kia is no breking news.. 😂 We had an 2020 Ioniq that had 12v problems, something drains the 12v battery in these cars, with no logical explenation! Wery many Ioniq owners has gone thru (are still going thru) that Shaaaaaait! 😂
The BMS is lying! 😂
Squeaking under the hood? Nibbles on the insulation… 🐭🐁😅
I blame the mouse
"Umma sneak attack!" Your 12V is dead.
Hiding degradation with make-up 🤣🤣,hope she doesn't see this
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12V ist THE weak spot of Hyundai and Kia EVs, almost everyone I know who has early adopted a Soul, a Ioniq, a Kona loves the car, but hates the breakdowns due to an empty 12V battery, it's a shame that the companies have denied that for so long and were not able to fix that up to this day. Sometimes no problem for two years, then you park the car as always, and the next day the battery is completely drained and dead at 7 Volts.... WTF ??? HYUNDAI/KIA fix this god damned !!
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