HOW TO: Convert Fluorescent RV Lights to LEDs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- UPDATE! We're upgrading our LED conversion with high-end LED tubes. See how we did it here: • Converting RV Lights t...
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FEATURED & RELATED PRODUCTS AVAILABLE ON AMAZON:
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Watch the other videos in our LED Your RV series:
Part 1 - Incandescent & Halogen: • Converting RV Lights t...
Part 2 - LED Color & Brightness: • Converting RV Lights t...
Part 3 - 18" Fluorescent Tubes: • Converting RV Lights t...
Part 4 - 12" Fluorescent Tubes: • Converting RV Lights t...
Part 5 - Docking & Patio Lights: • Converting RV Lights t...
Part 6 - Security, Entry & Reading: • Converting RV Lights t...
Our complete playlist of LED conversion videos:
• LED Your RV!
Being frequent boondockers (for the uninitiated, that's camping without hook-ups), we're always looking for ways to conserve resources. Even though our RV came equipped with some fairly energy efficient fluorescent lighting, LED lights are the reigning champs of miserly power consumption, using about a third the power of a fluorescent. Today we show you how to convert a 12-volt fluorescent fixture into low-power LED lighting.
Before we start, please remember that electrical projects aren't for everyone. Even 12-volt power requires extra caution in this case, since the capacitor in a fluorescent light ballast stores energy even after the power has been disconnected. If you're not comfortable working with electricity, hire a professional!
There are LOTS of ways to convert RV lights from incandescent (halogen is most common) or fluorescent to LED. The simplest is for incandescent lights, where you can purchase a direct plug-in replacement for an existing bulb. You can also replace entire fixtures with LED equivalents. But since these solutions can be a lot more expensive, we prefer to look for other alternatives. LED strip lights are an inexpensive replacement for fluorescent tubes, and really versatile too, since they're designed to be cut to length. They just take a little extra effort.
LEDs are available in a range of colors from cool to warm, which are listed as "K" ratings, which refers to the color temperature in degrees Kelvin. We suggest skewing toward "warm" as very cool LED light is similar to very cool fluorescent light, in that it can make your RV seem like a laboratory. lol
The general range of color runs from about 6,000 to 7,000 K (very cold blue cast) to about 2,500 to 3,500 K, which is much warmer, with a yellow cast similar to an incandescent light. If you want something in between, 3,500 to 4,500 K has warmth, without being too yellow, although they can be hard to find.
It might take some trial and error to find exactly what you like best. We actually demonstrated this installation with lights that were too cool, so we ordered warmer lights to replace them. At only about $15 for a 5-meter (16.4 ft.) roll on Amazon, it was so inexpensive to try them out, we weren't too worried about it!
The piano music is my own performance of Scott Joplin's Maple Leaf Rag from 1899.
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UPDATE! We're upgrading our LED conversion with high-end LED tubes. See how we did it here: th-cam.com/video/B3JFLErfMxw/w-d-xo.html Visit m4products.com and use Coupon Code RVGEEKS5 to get a 5% discount on the same great M4 LEDs we use in our own RV.
Hey guys, I am doing your strip LED conversion soon. I will be ordering lights soon (specifically for boondocking and campgrounds where we have to pay electric separately. My question is, we want maximum brightness. Were, those lights bright enough for you? We are on a pretty strict budget so M4's bulbs are out for us at this time . We have purchased all our other lights from them though (thanks for the discount code). Also, how did the adhesive on back of the lights hold up? did they stay stuck? Thanks in advance.
Hey Charlie! The strip lights are so inexpensive that we used FOUR strips in each fixture instead of two (two strips per bulb replaced) that we wanted extra brightness in. Works great. If you clean the fixture with alcohol before adhering the strips, they mostly stay where you put them long-term. A couple of ends curled down slightly over time, but we never noticed until we happened to take one of the covers off. A little double stick tape repaired that in a flash.
Thanks for the quick response. I am going to order them right now. We are wintering in Aransas Pass, Texas. I am a bit bored but not ready yet to party with the "Square Dance" set...lol, instead I will upgrade the coach. Is there a place where I can reach you via email? I have the same era Newmar Coach and have some questions that you might be able to answer? drzcharlie at google mail dot com
Hey Charlie. The best place for general questions is posting them as a public comment on the About Us page on our website. That way all threads are archived publicly to help out others with similar questions. www.thervgeeks.com/about-us/
Search "strip lights LED 300 SMD 5050 warm white" on Amazon (they just now came up sixth for us in our search). They're warm white in color, 5 meters (16.4 ft) with 60 LEDs per meter. They're currently listed for $12.98 + $4.49 shipping for the non-waterproof type (which are fine for this purpose). Not sure what the official output rating is vs. fluorescent, but they're so reasonably priced we simply added four strips instead of two in fixtures where we wanted more light. Hope this helps!
Sean Rudden Hi Sean. M4 sells the type of circular LEDs that I think you're referring to. They're 8" diameter and available in cool white or natural white (our personal choice): www.m4products.com/tube-lights/
Now the LED Tubes'' Are great as well......They will cost you 50 Dollars per fixture..........& a little wiring skill but RV Education has that covered.
Great video! I have been wondering about something besides the fluorescent tubes in my 5th wheel. I get tired of replacing all of those bulbs. You make it seem very easy! Thanks!
The light strips with the silicone coating are designed to be waterproof.
Landrew0 There is a special type of dimmer for LEDs, but we have never used one. Check this out from M4: www.m4products.com/dimmer-n-hard-wired-led-dimmer-control-module/
OMG - THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! This is awesome!
One of the clearest & very helpful videos I have come across recently.
I'm wondering if a dimmer control could be mounted at the switch or up on the light assembly? Are there 12v dimmer switches?
I m not sure the Amazon link shows warm light is 5mm , the link to connector 8mm and end caps 10mm one size fits all ?
Somewhat... the 8mm connectors are the closest size to the 5mm wide strip (plus you want a little leeway so it's not TOO tight a fit). Same with the end caps... we couldn't find a supply of any that were smaller than that, so they likely just make one size to fit many strips. They're (obviously) loose, but you really just want to be sure that the contacts at the bare end of the light strip don't connect with metal and short out.
Really great.
Thanks.
I just viewed both of your videos about converting RV Florescent lights to LED. I liked the strip light idea due to the cost because I would like to do all of my lights, 7 fixtures with 2 bulbs each 18". My question is why did you choose to go the more expensive way in the end we the strips not working or not bright enough. Please advise
Hi Steve! We've had some minor issues with the strip lights, with the connections coming loose enough that one strip didn't light, and then we have to tighten it up again. Not a big deal, but the M4 lights are so elegant, provide more light with nicer color, and we've never had a moment of trouble with any of them. We figured that since we're only converting them once, we could manage the cost of them. We do get it that with so many fixtures on some RVs, it can add up, so price can indeed be a consideration.
@Reashedul Hasan One of the prime benefits of LED bulbs is that they are very cool, so heat is not an issue.
Oh my goodness, I’m so . . . . .close. One strip lights but the other doesn’t. I’ve checked connections, turned the LED strip around, backed off the screw connectors and reapplied, still one light working.
Sounds like your super close, Mary! Have you tried swapping light strips to determine if it's the lights vs the power? If you swap them, and the same SIDE of the light works, it's the strip. If you swap them and the same STRIP works (but now on the other side/connection), it's the power coming into the one side. Good luck!
Did you get the "warm white" color? Even so, the colors can vary a bit. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
Outstanding!! I'm going to do this ASAP. Thanks!!
Only the light strip itself came from Amazon. Type "LED strip lights 300 SMD 5050 warm white" in the Amazon search box. "300" stands for 300 LEDs per 5 meters (sometimes listed as 60/meter), and "SMD 5050" refers to the size of each LED, 5050 being the largest and brightest commonly available. LEDwholesalers(dotcom) was our source for the strip connectors and end caps. Make sure you confirm the width of the LED strip (8mm for example) and order the same width connectors and end caps.
We didn't actually. The remaining wires are outputs from the ballast that simply lead to the old fluorescent tube contacts. The two wires that we cut heading into the ballast were the power wires, which were then re-diected to the LEDs.
Our LEDs cover the exact same area and put out the same light as the fluorescents we replaced. If you're installing new fixtures, there are new LED fixtures available right out of the box, instead of doing a conversion like we did here. Sorry, but I don't know how many you'll need. You might want to buy what you think you'll need and add more if it's not enough. We're very happy with the light.
Search "strip lights LED 300 SMD 5050 warm white" on Amazon and they should come pretty close to the top of the search. Sold through Amazon by "ebestrade" and currently listed for $14.96 + $4.99 shipping (we got ours a couple of weeks ago for $12.95, so they've obviously gone up a little). Funny thing... they don't say they're eligible for free super saver shipping, but we chose EXPEDITED shipping, and they shipped for FREE! Don't know if they've caught that yet, but maybe you'll get lucky too.
We had the ends of a few of the strips come loose from the light fixture after a while, so we picked up some 3M double stick tape at Home Depot. Worked great. But since you said that the adhesive backing actually came off the lights themselves, you must have gotten a bad batch. We've never had anything like that happen.
We got them from LED Wholesalers. The bare end connectors were about $1.50 each, but in retrospect, we'd recommend the ones that cost about $2.00 as probably having a more robust connection mechanism.
Hi Wes. We got them from LED wholesalers(dot)com. The bare end connectors were about $1.50 each, but in retrospect, we'd recommend the ones that cost about $2.00 as probably having a more robust connection mechanism. Glad you like our videos! Thanks for the comment. :)
Last month we picked up some parts at Al's I-5 RV in Bellingham, WA. One of the owners, a very nice guy, was showing us their factory LED lights, I think made by Thin-Lite, that looked really nice. Bright, but with a really good color (not too blue). They're more expensive than making your own for sure, and maybe not as bright as what you need, but he was very eager to deal on any quantity. Might be worth checking out. alsi5rv(dot)com
Sorry, just realized that you're looking for 110-volt and the ones I mentioned are 12-volt. Not sure what to do for 110, except to see what's available ion Google.
Can you double the amount of strips for a brighter fixture?
You sure can! We did just that in the bathroom for brighter light, while still using less power. We're planning a video update about it in the near future, so stay tuned!
Nice! I thought so, but had to ask,, :)
Thanks! Hope you can use the info. Biggest thing is to get the right color (not too "cold" which looks very blue, and to make sure the connectors are the same width as the strip lights (8mm, 10mm, etc). Thanks for the comment about our rings too. They're braided tri-color gold (white, yellow & rose), custom-made about 15 years ago by a great jeweler in Provincetown, MA.
I would say that the light is either about the same, or slightly dimmer than the fluoro tubes, but the nice thing about the LEDs is that you can easily add in more rows (4 strips instead of 2 for example) customizing the light level and still using less power.
There are places that sell it in shorter lengths, but as we mentioned in the video description, we found this long roll on Amazon for only $12.95! At that price, we figured that even if we didn't convert all of our lights, we'd find some use for it somewhere. lol
YEAH!! So glad you noticed and thanks so much for mentioning it! I videotaped myself playing Maple Leaf Rag on my parent's Knabe baby grand piano years ago, and love having it start and end the RVgeeks videos.... kind of like my "signature" lol. Since it's my own performance of a Public Domain piece, there's no copyright issue, but TH-cam gave me a hard time anyway. Not sure why no issue any more, but I hope it stays that way. Thanks again for the comment. You made my night! :)
You can add as many strips as will fit (easily 2 or 3 on each side, for a total of 4 or 6). That way you can adjust the light level where you want it to be. We used four total (2 per side) in the bathroom, where we wanted extra light, and that made it a little bit brighter than the original 2 fluorescent tubes.
No dimming and no problems so far. Everything seems great and we'll really happy with the light output and color. If you want more brightness, just install four strips instead of two (we did that over our kitchen sink for extra light).
We got the strip lights on Amazon (click the link at the top of the video description to find them) and the connectors from LEDwholesalers(dot)com..... although I believe Amazon sells them too.
All the strip lights I've ever seen are 12-volt DC, so to convert a 110-volt fluorescent light to LED would require some kind of 100-to-12-volt converter.
There are different LED bulbs for replacing incandescent (vs fluorescent) RV lights. We're planning a short video about that soon. Stay tuned!
Sure thing. Search "12 volt LED dimmer switch" on Amazon, and they have them for about 11 bucks, including a remote control. :) These are special dimmers just for LEDs.
In an RV, most (or all) of the lighting is 12-volt. If this were a regular house, it does indeed appear that we connected to 120!
Thanks for your comment Roger, and best of luck in your RV upgrade.
Sure thing. I hope it works for you. Please let me know. Good luck!
Thanks- bought a used Roadtrek- the light is a cool white- not very appealing...
I've found that the adhesive on many of these Chinese made LED strips is rather poor and the strips fall down after a day or so. Supplementing with cyanoacrylate adhesive solved the problem for me.
Another point: the lifespan of the LEDs is poor at rated current. Under driving them greatly increases lifespan and delays dimming of the strips and eventual failure.
These are indeed a cheap way to go, so these lights definitely aren't perfect. We've found a really high quality, elegant solution (so of course more expensive). We haven't finished the video about it yet, but we have a sneak peak with some advance details here: howtorvgeeks.com/electrical/sneak-preview-fluorescent-led-conversion/
The cost is negligible. A strip of LED's is cheap enough that in in a few years you could always just swap them out.
indianajoels I find that running them at the mfg specified voltage results in less than a year lifespan. So I've been experimenting with running them at reduced voltage, using current limiting resistors and simply increasing the number of LEDs for the desired light output. Lifespan is much longer. In my experience, if they feel warm to the touch, they're being driven too hard.
I think if you use hot glue gun to glue it
The glue does indeed weaken sometimes. If you want to see a really high-end way of converting fluorescents to LEDs, check out our brand new videos about it!
th-cam.com/video/B3JFLErfMxw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/82xbqZXeBro/w-d-xo.html
Should I cut them shorter? Your looked far too bright.
If you’d like them less bright, you sure can!
@@RVgeeks thx, just order 60ft natural white. :)
Thanks for sharing this information! We posted on our RV FORUM website
facebook.com/groups/RVForum/
LEDS failing. We bought some JOYLIT from Amazon. emitters are individually failing over a 2 week period. I am guessing they do not like the heat in the fixture.
We set it to 20 on the "DCV" (DC volt) side.
Good Video, but the 1/3 less power consumption thing is flawed. One gets less consumption at the expense of less light overall. These leds without ballasts use a series limiting resistor and 3 series led arrays. Each led has a forward voltag of about 3.3V, so 10V to the LED and 2-3 V lost in heat in the resistors.
A better approach, if one wants to get the best efficiency is to get a string of series leds such ad COB models rated for 30 or 60V and use the proper ballast, ensuring efficiencies as high as 95%. This also has the advantage that most models allow dimming.
Susana Godinho Hi Susana! We appreciate all the input. Thank you so much. We don't know anything about series lights, but one thing we can tell you for a fact. These light put out brighter light using less power than fluorescents. It is well know that LEDs outperform incandescent and halogen bulbs by a large margin, using a fraction of the power to produce more light. while fluorescent bulbs are indeed more efficient than halogens or incandescents, LEDs take it even further.
We're not electrical engineers, so we can't talk about the why, but we have personally tested these lights with a digital multimeter, and the difference is huge, and the light output superior/greater.
If you'd like to talk with someone more knowledgeable about the details, Steve at M4 is the engineer who knows more about this than anyone else we've met. Drop him a note at m4products.com if you'd like to chat about how this all works. But one thing is clear: LEDs use a fraction of the power of other types of bulbs, which explains why everything from flashlights (with blazing bright LED bulbs and batteries that last for ages) to entire RVs, are switching over at a rapid rate.
Can you show how to remove the lens cover of the florescent fixture slowly? Ours seem to be kind of brittle and I don't want to break them.
can this be done to an apartment?
+George rosado You shouldn't need to , since 110-volt LEDs are really easy to find, and they just screw into standard light bulb sockets.
I am wondering how you got the adhesive backing to not come loose...I followed your instructions to the letter - ordered what you said, etc - and the strips came loose from the heat within minutes, and cannot be made to stick. Very disappointed and perplexed (4 strips came unglued immediately; 2 strips took about a half hour) I even cleaned the surface of the fixture with alcohol, dried it well, and still wouldn't stay adhered...
I am wondering what type of LED you used. I see there is a lot of choice giving output per length of string different watt ratings per string. I am impressed with the simple installation and will redo my RV with these strip lights once I find the rating of the string used..
Hi, I did what you recommended but took everything out. Light is way to white and not bright enough, even as I put in 2 more rows of lights to a total of four. Wife still does not like it. Ended up putting my tubes back in today.
are they weatherproof? I want to add some to the outside of my popup camper.
i hate led light it looks strange because of missing color special high efficient led.
Same issue with fluorescent bulbs and they bring both about 60lumen per watt only the led is directional.
I was looking around and found a led strip light that has - 885 lumens per ft WOW. Using 8 watts/ft @24v. It's a led strip 4 LEDs wide 28mm wide. The stuff he put in that light is around 150 lumens/ft
Im sorry I must have missed that part , that is very cheap considering how much there is on that roll , thankyou for your time and info.
Can you use a dimmer with these things?
Thinking of trying this! Thanks for sharing!
Question. Could you wire those strips directly to your 110v house wiring or was the RV pushing 12v to the original fluorescent bulbs? I'm a bit new to this and I wanna do the same thing to the lighting in my bedroom.
The strips we used are 12-volt only, so you'd need a converter.
RVgeeks *powersupply
Can you comment on the light output. Does it seem comparable to the amount of light from the fluorescents, or more or less?
You can replace the fluor tubes by LED light tubes, no electrical rewiring. It cost you about $25 per light, last for 20 years.
while this is a very good vid- M4 carries NONE of what is shown or needed for this job... no silicone end caps, no strip connectors and no non-color changing LED strip lights.... so why give them a mention in the description...?
Because we discovered M4 AFTER making this video, and have switched to using their high-end LEDs ever since. And their bulbs don’t require silicone or end caps.
Unclear:
The 2 strips account for 4 wires, 2 each strip. In a two fluorescent bulb fixture, there will be 2 led strips and 4 wires (2 wires per strip). These 4 are twisted into 2 (1 twisted hot line, 1 twisted ground line) and then those twisted/connected leads connect to the power?
Yes, you have it right.
That is correct. An LED is a diode and electronic component, therefore it will operate on a polarized circuit of direct current. The conversion from ac to dc however is not difficult and not expensive. So, you may want to do the rectifier ac to dc then use the power saving led's.
I think I should do this for my living room florescent light. it started working on and off and now I think a capacitor in the ballast has stopped working. probably could even remove my ballast completely and be extra safe! I really like your strip leads! never knew you could get those!
Thanks very much for creating this vid! I've Always believed that most instructional vids could be wrapped-up in 5 mins or less. Best regards.
is the strip lighting expensive? and can you get less than a roll?, which would be far too much for me?
Pretty sweet! Thanks :)
Взял испортил нормальный светильник чтобы из него сделать это светодиодное говно:(
That was an excellent video. To the point, thorough, and informative... without a bunch of talk and nonsense. Thank you!
Awesome job on the Florence light did not know how easy that was thanks lads
Ha I ment fluorescent duh lol
Damn auto-correct!
get warm white, it looks way better
I bet you could get those in the color-changing kind too, which would be cool!👍🏼☮️
Get video! Love the close ups. Too bad you cut your right index finger, good thing you had a bandaid! So these are 12volt LED strips. Are there 110ac led strips? My 8 foot shop lamps just died and need new ballasts. Maybe I should go the LED route?
Thanks Myron! There are no LED strips the we know of that operate on 110, unless you put a converter in the line (which are indeed available).
Yes, there are, just search the web or jump on ebay, they can be slightly more and are cuttable about every meter and much heavier duty, but work the same.
The led is 12 volt. Did you just connect it to 120? Sorry if I missed something.
do you mean the voltage supply of the led is directly to the power source 220V AC as i shown in your demo?
+League Minecraft The power source for these is 12-volts DC (and an RV also uses 110, not 220 volts power).
I came up with this idea 2 years ago, I stripped the fixture completely, because I never intend to go back to fluorescents. The LED light is so much better/healthier, same for the incandescence, it gives true color and not a yellow effect.
Do your home work and read up on LED technical specifications( color factor K ) I recommend 5000 to 5500k which is pure white. Anything higher is a blue.
I've converted all the 12 volt lights in our motor home to LEDs and will never go back.
Hi, what about the on-off switch that it’s the lamp? How do I make it work? If I connect only to the hot an cold it stays on all time
The hot lead on our light comes directly from the switch. If yours is the same (it should be), the switch will still work.
everything looks good until you go to order the connectors and end caps and they say 8mm,10mm and so on .The product details do not tell you this .Also if I'm going to run strip lighting in my rv do I have to do anything different or can I just plug them in to a wall socket ?
The 10mm end caps are perfect (those are the ones I linked to), since they fit both 8 and 10mm wide strips. They don't have to fit perfectly... just cover the ends, so as long as their big enough to fit, they work fine. Also, the new type of strip connectors I linked to should work great, too. I've had that link up for a long time, and people have been ordering them a lot without anyone telling me they weren't the right ones. All strip LEDs that we've seen are 12-volt, so you can't plug any of them into a standard 110 outlet.
RVgeeks That's ok too as I meant to say that I could plug them into my dc outlets or make more of my own .Thanks for all your help
Amazing.
Hi guys, I finally got our roll of LED's still waiting on the connectors and silicone caps but should be here by the weekend. I have a couple of questions though. I know you snipped the wires from the ballast. Does this eliminate it from the circuit? I am guessing that snipping the wires does that. Also, I was poking around on iRV2 this morning and mentioned I was about to do this project. Someone recommended that I not forget the voltage regulators? Why would we need any?
Hi Charlie! Yes indeed on the ballast. Once the wires are cut, it's just a paper weight, not connected to, or doing, anything. Technically speaking, you could add a voltage regulator to protect them from the higher voltage they see when batteries are on high charge. But we never did that, and have had the original strip lights in place for about 5 years now without a single failure. We figure that the strips are so inexpensive (if they should need to be replaced), and have lasted so long, that it's not worth the cost or effort to bother with a regulator.
P.S... the "reason" for the regulators is to ensure the LEDs don't see higher than 12V. While LEDs are often listed with an acceptable voltage range (like 10-30V DC), they actually only use 12V. Anything above that just generates extra heat... and that heat will cause the LEDs to fail sooner. Again... in 5 years of using ours, we haven't had to replace a single one, yet and they seem to be doing just fine.
I've ordered the led lights and connectors on Amazon using the links without a problem. But when I searched for the end caps I wasn't sure which size to get: the 8mm or 10mm. I'm guessing 8mm but wasn't 100% sure. Thanks for the easy to follow video!
You want everything to match... 8mm lights, connectors and end caps, or 10mm everything. If you already ordered the lights and connectors and they're already on the way, you might want to until you receive them, then measure them to be sure.
Yeah great !!! Now we have blue tint lighting instead of a nice white light. These suck.
The strip lights we used, and linked to, are a nice clean shade of natural white. Nothing blue about them. If you read through the hundreds of comments here, you won’t find complaints about color. Not sure what lights you ordered, but they can’t be the ones we used.
Where can I purchase the materials used in this video? Want to do the same thing to my boat lights..
Should be an Amazon link in the video description.
I am looking at putting some over head lights in my enclosed motorcycle trailer. Would you recommend LED lights vs. Florescent lights. Florescent lights seem to work well at filling in light everywhere. Will I get that same effect? How many LED lights would I need for a 14' trailer.
Yeah! The intro music is back! So much better than the revving engine. I noticed it on your last video but didn't want to say anything in case I jinxed something.
Thank you for the video. This looks like a great project for my kids and I to do one a weekend.
great video Im about to order Burt one question what the advantage on 8mm ,10mm is more light ?
Hey Airstream... the difference just has to do with the size of the light strip. You want to match the connectors to be sure that they will be compatible. The wider the strip, the farther apart the contact points are, so if you don't have them close, they might not work.
Did you find the LED tube lights were better lighting than the strip lights for your RV. Just curious which gave you better lighting. Thanks you. Enjoy your videos
+Anna B. Absolutely. They're brighter, no issues with the adhesive loosening and very elegant design (for those of us who appreciate that). Also, easier to install. Of course they're more expensive, but we liked them so much we did tube lights throughout the coach after that first one.
Howdy, where did you order the bare end connectors and end caps? Also, I love your videos! I sanitized the fresh water tank in my new (to me) RV when I got it a month ago using the instructions from your other video.
Thanks Wes
LED lighting is the future!
I'm an electrician and I'm doing more conversion work than ever. I feel sorry for the lighting maintenance companies as they are going to be out of work!!
+Black Van Man Plenty of work, loads of very poor stuff on E Bay that you will be replacing for years to come
What fixtures do you recommend when buying premade fixtures. I am lighting a 26 foot enclosed trailer for Antique Snowmobile Racing, Currently use 3 exposed twin tube 8' 100 watt H.O. 110v fixtures open bulb no difuser. Showroom amount of light. Need the same as my eyes are getting older like the sleds. Thanks.
Howdy, where did you order the bare end connectors and end caps? Also, I love your videos! I sanitized the fresh water tank in my new (to me) RV when I got it a month ago using the instructions from your other video.
Thanks Wes
Another advantage to doing this type of conversion is weight reduction if you do all the fluorescent fixtures and remove all the ballast. 10+ ballasts have some weight to them. I would recommend removing them while you are doing this install.
Yea good point. if each ballast weighs a pound, that's 10 lbs of weight reduction But if you add an extra two gallons of water, that's 12 lbs so weight reduction is negated...LOL
hi friend i believe u can get more efficiency with cree led than smd strip led,smd led are same lumens per watt as fluorecent about 60lm/watt and cree led got 100lm/watt.
We get all our LEDs from M4 now. Look for a new video, along with a new RVgeeks Giveaway, this week!
Hello again. Trust your referrals to the max so I come to ask, anywhere you recommend for cam locks for the basement storage depts.? Thanks!
We've never needed to replace ours, but try camping world, an RV dealer or repair shop, or PPL Motorhomes onine.
LEDs only operate on DC. That said, its quite easy to find inexpensive 110 to 12v LED drivers.
Great stuff. Those ballasts generate a lot of RF interference which effects my slide controllers and AM radio on my 2005 Newmar KSDP 3910. Going after this one big time.
Very off topic ~ but that wedding band is a wonderful design !
Thank you so much! It’s a custom-made weave of white, yellow, and rose gold, and it will be 25 years old pretty soon!
Hi, What about the heat issue. how come it can be minimize.
LED's as small as these won't emit enough heat for that to be an issue. LED theatre lanterns never get hotter than 30°C.
Nice! Very clear and helpful! Thanks for posting!