fantastic to see the cracks making an appearance again. O-dog is the man, what an absolute boss on the crack! YES ADAM! good to see its not a perfect splitter this time but has some flare on it. Get that cupped crayfish jam out folks and you'll be well away :)
the camera watched Janja walk off longer than watching her climb, loved the super zoomed-in shots so I couldn't see any other climbers or even see the climb the athlete is on
So firstly, Matt groom's commentary was nice (as it has been in the past), although without Charlie it feels odd, I'm sure I'll get used to it. Can we please sort out the camera work? It's frustrating watching someone chalk up and stand around when you know someone is climbing "that hard climb"...or cutting from someone climbing to someone with two hands on the top, waiting to come down, then watching them walk off, all while people are climbing. I think a good split screen would be helpful, and making the scores transparent, rather than block 3/4 of the climbing at the start of every round. Please sort out the zoom too, we got to watch Janja climb, but only her shoulders and what she's already holding, a medium wide shot is important. I understand this might sound nit picky, but it would be like watching a football match zoomed only on the ball and whoever has it, cutting to the ref and coach every 10 seconds...I know this is worst with the semis though. Still good to watch, than no comps at all of course.
As someone who has worked in live streamed events, just wanna clarify that the camera work as you say isn't really to blame for the majority of the problems. It looks more like vision mixing and ultimately directing that is the issue. The cameras were generally pretty good in terms of following action and staying in focus etc, but it looks like the whole thing wasn't thought through and the cameras maybe needed better instruction. But shooting anything with Covid regs makes everything more difficult, to be fair. I don't think we're ever gonna get anything as good as Japan's production anyway!
@@swampfarts There was a russian competition not too long ago that was such high quality actually better than japan production wise in my opinion. I don't remember the event, but even for qualifications there was like perfect directing/mixing/ slow motion replays and like 2 camera angles on every boulder/climber.
@@MythAvatar well yes thats defenitely true;) this was also the case when yoshiuky was the only one to do m2 the intendet way and in the replay only the last move was shown but not the amazing dyno to the zone
Sorry to say that, but the camera work indeed was very bad. I also wouldn't be happy if you would focus only on Adam or Janja, but you should at least show one or two boulders of them in full length. Especially if you show some other climber chalking up instead.
As bouldering competition footage is so rare these days, it would be great if you could provide one recording per boulder, so we can watch each boulder separately. Watching this stream feels like missing out on nearly everything.
Bertone looked strong but no woman is currently looking like they can challenge Janja. I wonder how Janja would fare on the men's boulder honestly, I'd like to see that.
well done Matt in the hot seat! this was a great first go and you did a lovely job playing off of your guest commentators. the camera work unfortunately took quite a bit away from these comps - I honestly feel as though I know more about chalking preferences than I do about some climbers' styles. thankfully this is something that can be fixed with better angles, more conscientious focus choices, etc! using a split screen when there are so many climbers on the wall would be helpful, and rethinking some of the visual overlay (a transparent score sidebar rather than a solid one) could help focus the performance on the climbers themselves. at the very least, when key sections of major problems are solved, it would be nice to see consistent/complete replays rather than just trailing shots at the tail end of things! sad to miss out on what sounded like some really good action in this comp - and looking forward to the ways it can improve!
I watched the entire semi-final presentation right up until the last second to make sure I didn't miss anything. I have a few points: 1) I really appreciate the IFSC putting on and showing these events for everyone to see. The production value of the problems, live-stream, commentary, etc., gets better and better every year. I can understand why it would be frustrating for someone to miss seeing his/her favourite climber top a semi-finals boulder because of a camera angle change. I used to find it disappointing when only one move of Sean McColl's entire semi-final run was shown. However, I was still incredibly grateful that an organization spent tens of thousands of dollars (or more) purchasing equipment, setting up the equipment, hiring editors/AV tech crew, working out livestreaming rights in foreign countries, etc., yet at the same time not charging me anything for the privilege of watching my favourite climbers in real time on the other side of the world. I still am grateful. I also am a true fan of sports in general, this sport and all IFSC events. I have watched all of the IFSC livestreams (replays). I understand that when a local TV company is filming the event in HD, it is not the IFSC that directly controls the camera angles or who is shown on the screen. It's also not necessarily the "camera work" that you are upset with, since there are multiple camera angles from which to choose, and at least some of those are providing the angle you want. More than likely, it's actually the TV company's director deciding when to switch angles and to which camera that's making you upset. Complaining in the comments here will not change anything. You need to talk to the TV company responsible for the production or else you might look like a bit of a fool complaining about the wrong thing in the wrong forum. 2) I agree with the comments about Janja being incredible. I always knew she was great, and have been a long time fan since her first ever Open IFSC competition. Without some of the other top female competitors (resting/peaking for the Olympics, presumably), the gap in skill/power between Janja and almost everyone else in the division is really shocking. At least Akiyo (who blows me away with her longevity) has the decency to use all of her limbs to climb the hard problems... Janja just campuses up volumes and stops dead on paddle dynos. It's pretty disrespectful of the the route setters :P Ha! 3) While I am amazed at how easily Adam Ondra makes the Meiringen crack look every year. It's not fair to say it's easy (I think I heard/read someone refer to the 2019 crack as a "5.10 crack"). After the 2019 debacle, the entire Japanese team practiced crack climbing a lot. Also, it's not like these climbers only climb in the gym. Most of them climb well in to 5.14 grade (or 8c+ at least). You would think that they could at least make some progress if it were that actually easy. My real point is that I'm surprised that more people don't complain about this. I personally enjoy seeing it (the Meiringen crack) and think it's pretty creative, although I wouldn't want to have to climb it in competition. I also really enjoy seeing a flying triple-paddle coordination dyno. I really like seeing Adam Ondra struggle to have to learn how to speed climb, or watching Tomoa Narasaki invent new beta that has been adopted by the other pure speed climbers. That said, literally hundreds of negative comments were made about the dynos when they started showing up more and more, and about the speed climbing being included in the Olympics when it was first announced. However, only a few questions here and there about the "fairness" of the crack ever pop up on this channel. Seems odd...
3 ปีที่แล้ว +49
Couldn't see the climbs of any of the competitors I wanted to see. IFSC, how about a compilation of all the tops to make up for the lost scenes in the stream?
Not entirely sure, but I think they missed some full length footage of tops. The replay of ogata on men's two only started with him controlling the zone.
3 ปีที่แล้ว +2
@@joshuasim9326 I was hoping there is secondary footage. For example, you can see Yoshiyuki's full attempt on his Instagram.
GAHHHH I'M SO EXCITED FOR THIS COMP!!! I've been so freaking desperate to climb since covid started - comp reruns and old climbing videos have been an obsession of mine for the past year. Woohoo!!!!!!! Happy to see you commentating, Matt!! Stay safe and be well, everyone! Much love from Canada.
@ I think in lead there's finally someone to challenge her, Laura Rogora is a seriously strong contender. In bouldering however, eh, she dominates way too hard still.
Spoilers below: . . . . . . I know we like to focus on individuals in climbing, but can we take a moment to appreciate how insane the Japanese team is. 4/8 men finalists are Japanese, even though the two Japanese Olympic athletes (Tomoa Narasaki and Kai Harada) didn't even enter the comp!
It wouldn't be an IFSC competition without terrible camera work. Missed most of Adam on M4. Lots of time spent focusing on a climber chalking up and staring at holds while other climbers are topping/flashing their problems.
@@alexf927 They're still missing the start of the boulder and the movement to get into the crack. Plus they show the replay after the comp once everyone has definitely already tuned out
Watched the final, during the commentary they said you have to watch Adam flash the crack boulder in the semi. So I watched the semi aaand the camera doesn't even show it.
I'll have to chime in on the poor directing of the live stream. Whoever is in charge of this should have a much better feel for what the audience wants to see. Typical examples are first completions of previously undone problems, key moves, different methods for important passages and so on. Perhaps the worst violation of these guidelines was with Adam Ondra on M4. I'd assume most viewers, upon first seeing the crack, thought: "I can't wait to see Ondra on this one". Besides opting to show an inconsequential attempt on W4 live instead of Ondra, we never got to see him climb the crack properly despite two (!) replays. Unforgivable in my opinion.
Everyone complaining about the stream clearly hasn’t been watching World Cups for very long. Go back and watch some of the replays from the mid-teens and then talk to me about camera work 😉. It’s semis w/ 8 people on the wall - it’s not going to perfect. I’m grateful that it’s live, free, and high quality. I’d rather watch it here like this than on TV w/ ads every 5m.
Great comment. I couldn't agree more. When I was starting out climbing I had to wait an hour or more for my 56k modem to download 40 seconds of some colourful square pixels moving around all herky jerky. If I was lucky I had some music in the background. Search videos from early 2000s climbing competitions. These grainy 4:3 ratio films were unbelievable to me at the time, considering what I used to have. Here I am now watching a live video from the other side of the world with an Olympian giving me helpful commentary. Other times I'm able to see live video from inside China. Amazing! No matter how clear the video, or how good the intros or commentary are though, spoiled children these days will still complain about the commentary every year. It's baffling to me.
Just shocking camera coverage!! Even with Ondra's last climb and just one other competitor out, you still only see him for a second on the top out, whilst we watch a person chalk up staring at a wall.... just piss poor, really am fed up with this crap !!
You should really save videos of Janja Garnbret on all boulders, all the time. They will be studied for years to come. We really don't understand what we are watching right now. 13/13 Tops in 16 attempts??
I haven't seen a semi final with the men and women out at the same time! That's certainly a lot to keep track of, and probably more cameras than usual too.
Wish they had split this up into 4 streams on youtube so we can see everyone try each boulder. Frustrating not to be able to see some athletes try some of the boulders.
Great to see the comp but yet again, the IFSC seems unable or unwilling to find a director who is either not asleep or has a clue. Nothing more frustrating.
Isn't there a way to get a split screen from time to time? When there are 2 highlights simultaneously, that kind of is what is usually done in Olympics (for different sports)
whoever is responsible for the direction/camera selection, terrible job. watching a climber chalk up for half a minute, and the moment she is about to touch the wall, you switch to another climber chalking up. even a random selection would have been better
All 9 boulders in qualis and semis topped with 8 flashes........ Challengers? Lol, keep dreaming - just look at how Janja did boulder number 4 - bloody insane!!
Could you imagine watching basketball and the commentator being like, "So for our viewers who are new to this game, explain what a ball is." And then having a similarly absurd comment to make every 4 minutes.
I agree with everyone who said the camera with us aggravating. I am here to watch people climb, not stand still and chalk their hands. There are obviously enough cameras, why not just film the climbers climbing?
I hate these parallel competitions, why can't you record it seperately and post individual videos? This cutting between one climber and another means missing all the action.
I hate parallel views too but it makes the most sense. This is the live stream so to record separate videos in addition to the live stream recording means more staff, more cameras, more time, and more money. And why would you spend all of these resources on just semis
@@viviannguyen4226 Why? Because you are passionate about the sport. If the federation itself isn't passionate then what can we expect? But I shouldn't be too hard on them as most other sport federations refuse to show even this much. Or anything at all. It pisses me off to no end. And when I want to videograph the event myself they tell me its not allowed. FFS.
@@mummifiedgamer I completely understand where you're coming from and can relate but unfortunately passion doesn't generate revenue. The federation needs to budget for a lot i.e. Boulder holds, setters, mats, cameras, staff, metals, commentary, etc. It's a lot of account for and if they were to invest more on recording individual cuts in the semis, then we would be losing out else where whether it be in finals or even on the Boulder routes. You can see that the federation is passionate about the sport based on the setting, Boulder holds and even just the fact that this event was able to be held amidst covid.
I don't know who is responsible for IT and social media at the IFSC but they suck at their job. There is bearly any information in the description of the videos here (there aren't even links to the IFSC homepage), the homepage is a mess, the app of the IFSC they talk is almost impossible to find and the directing in the videos is usually awful. When they want to be considered as being professionals they should start to behave that way.
Probably the worst camera work I've ever witnessed. Edit: I just reached the end. Dear god... It's worse than I could have imagined. They need to stop using trained animals to run the cameras and try to find some willing humans.
People are complaining about camerawork, but I don't think it's their fault. It's the terrible organization of the event. Having 3 people climb at the same time? How is the cameraman, or the guy in the studio switching between the cameras, supposed to know when to watch which climber? And if both of the climbers are getting to the top at the same time, which one should get priority for the screen time? I get that they do this, to get multiple birds with 1 stone, but it's still a shit idea.
1. Poor camerawork. Missed plenty of tops while showing idle scenes. Even the replays mostly showed only the very last few seconds of the topped route. 2. Matt sounds to be a nice chap, but completely lack of professionalism. Hardly provided any insight nor background information on the climbers. His continuous excitement and tone felt unnatural. I wish him the best though, commentating such an event for the first time may not be easy.
I think everyone will agree with you in regards to the camera work. Your comment about Matt however is a bit harsh. Matt is arguably the second best Ifsc commentator we've had, after Charlie Boscoe obviously. Hard shoes to fill but Matt is doing a much better than many of the previous commentators.
@@wd4413 I cannot agree with that, just lets mention Mike Langley. In this case to be more specific, I was truly missing any explanation on the missing participants such as Shauna Coxsey, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Jongwon Chon, etc. It is like commentating a Juventus - Barcelona soccer match, where Ronaldo and Messi are not present and not even mentioning them at all. Also it was frustrating to see that seemingly he had no idea about Shouta Amagasa and other new faces, even though many of them had remarkable achievements during the past year. Even for well known stars such as Adam Ondra he did not provide any information on their recent training routines, injuries, interesting stories, etc. I believe if he does his homework he can improve a lot as a commentator.
lack of professionalism also from Jakob Schubert (?) in the commentary. "the russian woman", " the slovinian girl" - cmon, so much disrespect. at least get to know the athletes names if you are invited in the booth. you probably even have a list in front of you
fantastic to see the cracks making an appearance again. O-dog is the man, what an absolute boss on the crack! YES ADAM!
good to see its not a perfect splitter this time but has some flare on it. Get that cupped crayfish jam out folks and you'll be well away :)
Looking forward to seeing you boys represent the UK once the comp climbs start featuring more cracks 👀
But you had to use your imagination about how he actually did it, because they didn't show it.
@@JFL92989 they show a replay of him halfway through the crack near the end of the video.
would love to see y'all's try on that crack boulder!
enjoying the commentary, great job! Camera work is beyond frustrating, though.
I don’t think the camera work could have been worse. Non-stop watching open doorways and brushing when people are sending or on crux..
Great video of climbers chalking while others are flashing in background.
the camera watched Janja walk off longer than watching her climb, loved the super zoomed-in shots so I couldn't see any other climbers or even see the climb the athlete is on
Akiyo, 31 years old, sill making finals. Impressive !
It was sad to see her off form tbh. She's one of my favourites.
She's 30 not 100
So firstly, Matt groom's commentary was nice (as it has been in the past), although without Charlie it feels odd, I'm sure I'll get used to it. Can we please sort out the camera work? It's frustrating watching someone chalk up and stand around when you know someone is climbing "that hard climb"...or cutting from someone climbing to someone with two hands on the top, waiting to come down, then watching them walk off, all while people are climbing. I think a good split screen would be helpful, and making the scores transparent, rather than block 3/4 of the climbing at the start of every round. Please sort out the zoom too, we got to watch Janja climb, but only her shoulders and what she's already holding, a medium wide shot is important. I understand this might sound nit picky, but it would be like watching a football match zoomed only on the ball and whoever has it, cutting to the ref and coach every 10 seconds...I know this is worst with the semis though. Still good to watch, than no comps at all of course.
As someone who has worked in live streamed events, just wanna clarify that the camera work as you say isn't really to blame for the majority of the problems. It looks more like vision mixing and ultimately directing that is the issue. The cameras were generally pretty good in terms of following action and staying in focus etc, but it looks like the whole thing wasn't thought through and the cameras maybe needed better instruction. But shooting anything with Covid regs makes everything more difficult, to be fair. I don't think we're ever gonna get anything as good as Japan's production anyway!
I agree with in most of your points but I think its usefull to get some closeups sometimes just to see which small hold there actually is
@@swampfarts There was a russian competition not too long ago that was such high quality actually better than japan production wise in my opinion. I don't remember the event, but even for qualifications there was like perfect directing/mixing/ slow motion replays and like 2 camera angles on every boulder/climber.
@@timwuerthner9389 Sure, but not whilst Janja Garnbret is crushing a previously untopped climb.
@@MythAvatar well yes thats defenitely true;) this was also the case when yoshiuky was the only one to do m2 the intendet way and in the replay only the last move was shown but not the amazing dyno to the zone
Janja is from another planet. Also Matt does great comp commentary! I always liked his voice. Good accent :)
Sorry to say that, but the camera work indeed was very bad.
I also wouldn't be happy if you would focus only on Adam or Janja, but you should at least show one or two boulders of them in full length. Especially if you show some other climber chalking up instead.
As bouldering competition footage is so rare these days, it would be great if you could provide one recording per boulder, so we can watch each boulder separately. Watching this stream feels like missing out on nearly everything.
Impressive showing from Natalia Grossman and Nathaniel Coleman.
Oriane Bertone, so damn impressive!
Especially skipping that second to last hold.
Looking like a good candidate to finally challenge Janja.
Bertone looked strong but no woman is currently looking like they can challenge Janja. I wonder how Janja would fare on the men's boulder honestly, I'd like to see that.
and holy fuck, she's only 15
may not have even reached her final form yet
@@roadrunner6474 that last sentence reminds me of Freezer from DBZ
@@roadrunner6474 sounds like she’s a Pokémon🤣
well done Matt in the hot seat! this was a great first go and you did a lovely job playing off of your guest commentators.
the camera work unfortunately took quite a bit away from these comps - I honestly feel as though I know more about chalking preferences than I do about some climbers' styles. thankfully this is something that can be fixed with better angles, more conscientious focus choices, etc! using a split screen when there are so many climbers on the wall would be helpful, and rethinking some of the visual overlay (a transparent score sidebar rather than a solid one) could help focus the performance on the climbers themselves. at the very least, when key sections of major problems are solved, it would be nice to see consistent/complete replays rather than just trailing shots at the tail end of things! sad to miss out on what sounded like some really good action in this comp - and looking forward to the ways it can improve!
Please have split screen or dont show people chalking up and walking in or out of each boulder
Adam Ondra
1:42:40
1:50:57
2:03:47
2:20:53
Alexander Megos
1:09:50
1:16:50
1:28:19
1:37:05
I watched the entire semi-final presentation right up until the last second to make sure I didn't miss anything. I have a few points:
1) I really appreciate the IFSC putting on and showing these events for everyone to see. The production value of the problems, live-stream, commentary, etc., gets better and better every year.
I can understand why it would be frustrating for someone to miss seeing his/her favourite climber top a semi-finals boulder because of a camera angle change. I used to find it disappointing when only one move of Sean McColl's entire semi-final run was shown. However, I was still incredibly grateful that an organization spent tens of thousands of dollars (or more) purchasing equipment, setting up the equipment, hiring editors/AV tech crew, working out livestreaming rights in foreign countries, etc., yet at the same time not charging me anything for the privilege of watching my favourite climbers in real time on the other side of the world. I still am grateful.
I also am a true fan of sports in general, this sport and all IFSC events. I have watched all of the IFSC livestreams (replays). I understand that when a local TV company is filming the event in HD, it is not the IFSC that directly controls the camera angles or who is shown on the screen. It's also not necessarily the "camera work" that you are upset with, since there are multiple camera angles from which to choose, and at least some of those are providing the angle you want. More than likely, it's actually the TV company's director deciding when to switch angles and to which camera that's making you upset. Complaining in the comments here will not change anything. You need to talk to the TV company responsible for the production or else you might look like a bit of a fool complaining about the wrong thing in the wrong forum.
2) I agree with the comments about Janja being incredible. I always knew she was great, and have been a long time fan since her first ever Open IFSC competition. Without some of the other top female competitors (resting/peaking for the Olympics, presumably), the gap in skill/power between Janja and almost everyone else in the division is really shocking. At least Akiyo (who blows me away with her longevity) has the decency to use all of her limbs to climb the hard problems... Janja just campuses up volumes and stops dead on paddle dynos. It's pretty disrespectful of the the route setters :P Ha!
3) While I am amazed at how easily Adam Ondra makes the Meiringen crack look every year. It's not fair to say it's easy (I think I heard/read someone refer to the 2019 crack as a "5.10 crack"). After the 2019 debacle, the entire Japanese team practiced crack climbing a lot. Also, it's not like these climbers only climb in the gym. Most of them climb well in to 5.14 grade (or 8c+ at least). You would think that they could at least make some progress if it were that actually easy.
My real point is that I'm surprised that more people don't complain about this. I personally enjoy seeing it (the Meiringen crack) and think it's pretty creative, although I wouldn't want to have to climb it in competition. I also really enjoy seeing a flying triple-paddle coordination dyno. I really like seeing Adam Ondra struggle to have to learn how to speed climb, or watching Tomoa Narasaki invent new beta that has been adopted by the other pure speed climbers.
That said, literally hundreds of negative comments were made about the dynos when they started showing up more and more, and about the speed climbing being included in the Olympics when it was first announced. However, only a few questions here and there about the "fairness" of the crack ever pop up on this channel. Seems odd...
Couldn't see the climbs of any of the competitors I wanted to see. IFSC, how about a compilation of all the tops to make up for the lost scenes in the stream?
Not entirely sure, but I think they missed some full length footage of tops. The replay of ogata on men's two only started with him controlling the zone.
@@joshuasim9326 I was hoping there is secondary footage. For example, you can see Yoshiyuki's full attempt on his Instagram.
@ yeah probably taken by the respective national team coaches or officials
Jakob and Sofya are doing a really good job commentating!
I think a pronunciation database for all the competitors names would be super helpful.
Could you please replay Adam’s final climb? I would like to see how he tackled the handjam section. Thx!
2:21:00 they replay it again, but still only half of it ..
GAHHHH I'M SO EXCITED FOR THIS COMP!!! I've been so freaking desperate to climb since covid started - comp reruns and old climbing videos have been an obsession of mine for the past year. Woohoo!!!!!!! Happy to see you commentating, Matt!!
Stay safe and be well, everyone! Much love from Canada.
janja garnbret
1:46:16
1:56:40
2:06:13
2:15:54
What the fuck? She's bored. How is she so far better than all the other climbers?
@ I think in lead there's finally someone to challenge her, Laura Rogora is a seriously strong contender. In bouldering however, eh, she dominates way too hard still.
@ dw Oriane Bertone the French jewel is on the come up 💪🏼
@@TornadoGod1 theres also someone called cheyun seo;) janja didnt even win the leadworldcup in 19 aw
you need more likes ! top comment
i love matt but damn after Alex Johnsons narration of the usa trials it would be so sick to have her!
Climbing starts at 11:08
the split screen view should always be on
Great commentary Matt, Sofya & Jakob!!
Google is offering to translate this into English 🤣😅🤦🏻♀️
Spoilers below:
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I know we like to focus on individuals in climbing, but can we take a moment to appreciate how insane the Japanese team is. 4/8 men finalists are Japanese, even though the two Japanese Olympic athletes (Tomoa Narasaki and Kai Harada) didn't even enter the comp!
4/6*
With Ai Mori and Futaba Ito competing there were probably more Japanese female finalists as well.
It wouldn't be an IFSC competition without terrible camera work. Missed most of Adam on M4. Lots of time spent focusing on a climber chalking up and staring at holds while other climbers are topping/flashing their problems.
So where was the replay of Adam doing the crack? Not the best camerawork
Two and a half minutes they had to show the replay, and they show the last quarter of his climb. Nice work.
The replay is at 2:20:50
@@alexf927 They're still missing the start of the boulder and the movement to get into the crack. Plus they show the replay after the comp once everyone has definitely already tuned out
yeah, the camera work is really frustrating to watch...
Jakob - "For the men we've seen a top on every single boulder"
Me - "No we flipping haven't"
Explain to me went mégos or Adam is climbing the camera is not on them 🤨
Oriaaaane ! Incroyable
"And off screen we can see Yoshiyuki getting another top"
Not again!!
Switching camera to another bolder in the middle of a move is super annoying!
Watched the final, during the commentary they said you have to watch Adam flash the crack boulder in the semi. So I watched the semi aaand the camera doesn't even show it.
I'll have to chime in on the poor directing of the live stream. Whoever is in charge of this should have a much better feel for what the audience wants to see. Typical examples are first completions of previously undone problems, key moves, different methods for important passages and so on. Perhaps the worst violation of these guidelines was with Adam Ondra on M4. I'd assume most viewers, upon first seeing the crack, thought: "I can't wait to see Ondra on this one". Besides opting to show an inconsequential attempt on W4 live instead of Ondra, we never got to see him climb the crack properly despite two (!) replays. Unforgivable in my opinion.
Everyone complaining about the stream clearly hasn’t been watching World Cups for very long. Go back and watch some of the replays from the mid-teens and then talk to me about camera work 😉.
It’s semis w/ 8 people on the wall - it’s not going to perfect. I’m grateful that it’s live, free, and high quality. I’d rather watch it here like this than on TV w/ ads every 5m.
I think we are all expecting less than perfect technical work from the IFSC. This was beyond miserable though.
Great comment. I couldn't agree more.
When I was starting out climbing I had to wait an hour or more for my 56k modem to download 40 seconds of some colourful square pixels moving around all herky jerky. If I was lucky I had some music in the background.
Search videos from early 2000s climbing competitions. These grainy 4:3 ratio films were unbelievable to me at the time, considering what I used to have.
Here I am now watching a live video from the other side of the world with an Olympian giving me helpful commentary. Other times I'm able to see live video from inside China. Amazing!
No matter how clear the video, or how good the intros or commentary are though, spoiled children these days will still complain about the commentary every year. It's baffling to me.
So good to be back!!!
"on most rocks you dont have as much crack climbing" lmao. legendary comment.
I missed these!
Janja is a beast!!
the only solution to this camera problem is by far buying more cams and let the viewer choose wich boulder wants to be seen. its very interactiv .
Just shocking camera coverage!! Even with Ondra's last climb and just one other competitor out, you still only see him for a second on the top out, whilst we watch a person chalk up staring at a wall.... just piss poor, really am fed up with this crap !!
Hell yeaaaaaaaaah the whole gang is there !!!!
Yellow cream and onion breath -- gotta love the closed captioning!
camera work is just awful and frustrating. Better give me four streams for each problem to choose from than this uncoordinated shitshow
@mikea hiooi was just talking about the picture. Commentators did a good job no doubt
You should really save videos of Janja Garnbret on all boulders, all the time. They will be studied for years to come. We really don't understand what we are watching right now. 13/13 Tops in 16 attempts??
That camera !!!! Switching every time they’re an interesting move 🤬🤬🤬🤬
I haven't seen a semi final with the men and women out at the same time!
That's certainly a lot to keep track of, and probably more cameras than usual too.
what's the point of cleaning the brush if you don't clean the wall and holds. Oh please let it be
janja is a beast
Wish they had split this up into 4 streams on youtube so we can see everyone try each boulder. Frustrating not to be able to see some athletes try some of the boulders.
Anyone got the time stamps for all USA?
The videography is the worst. You managed to miss ALL completions of the crack section
btw the only ok part is on 48:03
Where is Fanny? and Sol?
janjaヤンヤが最強過ぎる😲
Really bad camera work. Wow
At the very end there is a rep of adams doing the last problem. Anyway, frustating camera work... Split screeen pls
Great to see the comp but yet again, the IFSC seems unable or unwilling to find a director who is either not asleep or has a clue. Nothing more frustrating.
Where's Charlie, the previous Ifsc commentator? Not working for ifsc anymore? He's greatly missed!
Wide Boyz IFSC masterclass needed????
the camera work was just sad
So bad camera work. amazing and so frustrating
51:53 really who did the cutting? I am so annoyed.
I feel like I was watching more of climbers staring at the wall than them actually climbing
1:46:52 Domen Skofic!! 👌
the sound quali is very bad.
I don’t understand, why can’t you have a designated brusher instead of having multiple people use the same brush? Lol
Isn't there a way to get a split screen from time to time? When there are 2 highlights simultaneously, that kind of is what is usually done in Olympics (for different sports)
whoever is responsible for the direction/camera selection, terrible job. watching a climber chalk up for half a minute, and the moment she is about to touch the wall, you switch to another climber chalking up. even a random selection would have been better
Lol @ matt groom sandbagging the second to last hold at M3.
All 9 boulders in qualis and semis topped with 8 flashes........ Challengers? Lol, keep dreaming - just look at how Janja did boulder number 4 - bloody insane!!
아키호는 길이. 얀야는 압도적인 힘.
Could you imagine watching basketball and the commentator being like, "So for our viewers who are new to this game, explain what a ball is." And then having a similarly absurd comment to make every 4 minutes.
Workout idea - do a pull-up every time Jacob says "I mean". I think only a few people in the world can finish this workout.
The person in charge of the camera work needs to step their game up, this was terrible to watch.
Sofya!!
The camera work is horrendous for a world cup standard.
I agree with everyone who said the camera with us aggravating. I am here to watch people climb, not stand still and chalk their hands. There are obviously enough cameras, why not just film the climbers climbing?
The worst camera i have ever seen... I was so tilted for a whole video..
I don't remember many crack bolder moves in womens comps... They should be in both (or neither)
Janja may need a different boulder route designed for her so its fair. This is just too easy.
“French climber famous for their climbing” yet I’ve yet to see a Frenchmen win anything 😂😂😂😂
Mano vocês são muito vacilão com os Brazuca, namoral deixar indisponível é mó ideia errada, não é todo cria que tem VPN porra
I hate these parallel competitions, why can't you record it seperately and post individual videos? This cutting between one climber and another means missing all the action.
I hate parallel views too but it makes the most sense. This is the live stream so to record separate videos in addition to the live stream recording means more staff, more cameras, more time, and more money. And why would you spend all of these resources on just semis
@@viviannguyen4226 Why? Because you are passionate about the sport. If the federation itself isn't passionate then what can we expect? But I shouldn't be too hard on them as most other sport federations refuse to show even this much. Or anything at all. It pisses me off to no end. And when I want to videograph the event myself they tell me its not allowed. FFS.
@@mummifiedgamer I completely understand where you're coming from and can relate but unfortunately passion doesn't generate revenue. The federation needs to budget for a lot i.e. Boulder holds, setters, mats, cameras, staff, metals, commentary, etc. It's a lot of account for and if they were to invest more on recording individual cuts in the semis, then we would be losing out else where whether it be in finals or even on the Boulder routes. You can see that the federation is passionate about the sport based on the setting, Boulder holds and even just the fact that this event was able to be held amidst covid.
Loved having a comp again but what the hell was the director thinking. Terrible timing on cutovers. Poor replays and stupid split screens.
I don't know who is responsible for IT and social media at the IFSC but they suck at their job. There is bearly any information in the description of the videos here (there aren't even links to the IFSC homepage), the homepage is a mess, the app of the IFSC they talk is almost impossible to find and the directing in the videos is usually awful.
When they want to be considered as being professionals they should start to behave that way.
Camera sucks
What the frick
xDDD this guy got some nerves xD lolol
Sofia is the best
Lol if you wanna have your hold brushed then go on and brush it.
Probably the worst camera work I've ever witnessed.
Edit: I just reached the end. Dear god... It's worse than I could have imagined. They need to stop using trained animals to run the cameras and try to find some willing humans.
I guess animals could do better
No Adam in the crack -- the world's most famous climber. Awful stuff from the IFSC.
1:39:30 excuse me?
Stop saying "tschkofitz"!! domen TSkofiTCH! Just cant keep hearin it
It's actually fitz... It doesn't end with č
Camera work = poor.
Absolutely horrible editing/production, what are they thinking?
People are complaining about camerawork, but I don't think it's their fault.
It's the terrible organization of the event.
Having 3 people climb at the same time?
How is the cameraman, or the guy in the studio switching between the cameras, supposed to know when to watch which climber?
And if both of the climbers are getting to the top at the same time, which one should get priority for the screen time?
I get that they do this, to get multiple birds with 1 stone, but it's still a shit idea.
The women problems look insane. especially number 3 and 4
1. Poor camerawork. Missed plenty of tops while showing idle scenes. Even the replays mostly showed only the very last few seconds of the topped route.
2. Matt sounds to be a nice chap, but completely lack of professionalism. Hardly provided any insight nor background information on the climbers. His continuous excitement and tone felt unnatural. I wish him the best though, commentating such an event for the first time may not be easy.
I think everyone will agree with you in regards to the camera work.
Your comment about Matt however is a bit harsh. Matt is arguably the second best Ifsc commentator we've had, after Charlie Boscoe obviously. Hard shoes to fill but Matt is doing a much better than many of the previous commentators.
@@wd4413 I cannot agree with that, just lets mention Mike Langley. In this case to be more specific, I was truly missing any explanation on the missing participants such as Shauna Coxsey, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Jongwon Chon, etc. It is like commentating a Juventus - Barcelona soccer match, where Ronaldo and Messi are not present and not even mentioning them at all. Also it was frustrating to see that seemingly he had no idea about Shouta Amagasa and other new faces, even though many of them had remarkable achievements during the past year. Even for well known stars such as Adam Ondra he did not provide any information on their recent training routines, injuries, interesting stories, etc. I believe if he does his homework he can improve a lot as a commentator.
lack of professionalism also from Jakob Schubert (?) in the commentary. "the russian woman", " the slovinian girl" - cmon, so much disrespect. at least get to know the athletes names if you are invited in the booth. you probably even have a list in front of you
@@wd4413 yes, I think Matt did a good job. always time to improve, lets not forget this is one of his first commentaries
Wipe the brushes down but not the holds that’s definitely gonna stop corona lol not