Now that's what the Olympics should have been. Perfect setting with dramatic moments. A mix of moves and good and insightful commentary most of the time. Even the camera work and lighting was way better. One of the best finals in years.
Insane performance by Kokoro Fuji💪 Also great commentating by Matt Groom and Alex Khazanov, always a huge pleasure when they show their massive knowledge of the sport👏
It’s great to see men’s boulder setting that isn’t just coordination dynos. I especially like the incorporation of more slab boulders for the men, which they weren’t tested on as much in the past. And of course congrats to Kokoro on a well-deserved victory, what an absolute beast! He’s been on fire this entire season.
I agree, the constant triple dyno moves are so lame. Give me some more slabs and severe overhangs… I want to be able to SEE the form and strength not just flailing limbs
I first watched Boulder as a competition at the olympics and was really impressed by it. Clicked this instantly when it was on my main page, even though i don't know anything about the sport and the competitors but it is just so amazing to watch!
You know Nimrod might have come 5th, but I still look up to the guy it shows that even if you might not be tall you can still be an amazing climber. Good to see kokoro improving as well. Very good watch👍
Hopefully the country quotas will be increased for Paris, Japan has so many talented athletes and they definitely deserve more than just 2 spots per gender.
On that first boulder, that dude from Japan basically did a one-armed pull-up with just his fingers. That was the most impressive raw-strength thing I've ever seen in 20 years.
@@mycommentpwnz oh sorry didn't see your reply.. Yeah that's almost impossible if you're not doing pull-up and campus board training for years. Also you have to be naturally light weight I think
@@mycommentpwnz Lifting weights makes you strong and gives you big muscles for pushing movements. Climbers are usually very light, but have only have strong muscles for pulling motions (plus a bit of pushing muscles for balancing out). Pound for pound climbers are one of the strongest athletes in the world, but a bodybuilder or strong man will still smoke them in a lot of strenght related competitions.
unfortunate that not seeing Aleksey on the podium in front of his country. Love to hear the crowd cheer for the athletes, even the sound cover the commentators.
Totally agreed with Alex's thoughts about Yoshiyuki Ogata @0:06:08. One of the strongest climber with crazy pinching strength. Sad that he's couldn't make final.
Considering the problems they were having with skin, both Anze & Marcus should be proud of how well they did. Especially after the semi-finals - seeing them here just really makes me wish that we could have seen them climb these with even just slightly better skin. It could have changed the whole way the finals went.
Kokoro is so talented and strong. Like see, he makes balance with his feet then grabs and he doesnt make useless haste. and he can lift his whole body with ONE ARM!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Always like it when Matt and Alex are commentating together. They vibe nicely together. Very interesting aspects and insights. Inthe Semifinals i had the impression Matt and (the english ;) Alex were talking to each other but not really for the audience, if you get what i mean?! Was nice as well, but in the finals it was more audiencd orientated for me. Anyway nice format to have a lot of diffrent co-commentators. Everyoneof them brings something new and you get to know some awsome climbers better and thatfor liking them even more (how sympatic was Oriane, omg she was amazing, loving her even more after her commentating
Camera work needs a little fine tuning, why on earth do I want to watch zoomed in details shots of their shoes or face while watching their attempt. Leave those for the rest period replays and commentary.
Interesting to see on boulder 3 that the match on the last crimp was the crucial move, and it was only enabled by changing the left foot position from facing right to facing left, opening the hip and making room for the left hand to come in. Only Tomoa and Kokoro pulled that off. The camera selection overall is pretty bad however, preferring to show expressions on their faces or a close up of a hand or foot at a time when the whole body is doing something much more crucial/interesting.
One-arm pull up is a super hard move i agree, but there are many amateur climbers who can do a one-arm pull up. Fuji's boulder 1 was special because of the insane grip strength.
Not a big fan of the closeups during the actual attempt. Every contact point along with the position of the body is significant with these routes. Otherwise great stuff. Thanks!
It's like kokora and tomoa switched place, tomoa used to be the alien. Anyway perfect setting and final. Can Matt make a little more of those interviews (I know kokoro speaks little English but in general)? More prepared questions and also why not interview the entire podium? These athletes need exposure to live off this, I'm sure they wouldn't mind.
I am a beginner and I was most impressed by Nimrod Marcus. After seeing all the tall dudes struggle, i always thought "how is he supposed to do it?" when Nimrod entered the stage. But then he just did it.
The camera work was a bit too much though.. We often missed critically important hand/body moves because the camera was so close up to their feet. almost all the time right before the top.
Imagine you have all these random shapes and you have to screw whichever of them any way you want on a wall and you create such beautiful problems that effect/highlight each person differently that’s a skill in itself
!!!SPOILER!!! So can anyone tell me why Kokoro was not guaranteed 1st place after the 3rd boulder? He had 3 tops and fewer attempts than Tomoa who was the only one with 2 tops. What am I missing? Scores at 1:21:16
I feel bad for complaining about this amazing free footage of IFSC events, but this really grinds my gears: Nimrod's Try on Problem #3 (1:06:40) was probably the worst video coverage ever. I understand that zooming in on small crimps does make a nice shot, but in terms of watching those boulderers making their way up a slab and understanding how exactly they approach it you really desperately want to see their full body movement...
I was yelling at my screen for all the camera work on all of boulder #3. It was impossible to understand anything happening. I don't understand why they did such a competent job on the other three boulders, and totally shat the bed on that one!
Great competition and congratulations to Kokoro! Camera work though disappointed me a lot. So many close ups where they were not needed.. in very crucial moments! Especially, problem 3 was filmed so badly - because of so many close ups on the face and right hand we missed everything what was going on with feet of the athletes.
Amazing competition! If only Aleksey got 3rd would be a perfect finish! And of course Japan demonstrates they're the strongest in all types of boulders! 頑張れ日本 🇯🇵 🤟
Sound engineer here : as much as I enjoyed watching this final, the automatic ducking (ie sidechain) set between commentaries and background just threw me off… please don’t 😅 or at least not such a quick release, this makes the listening very tiring.
Fantastic finals! As much as I love the mics on the wall though, it's often quite hard to hear the commentators over the noise in the arena - perhaps this could be fixed by some level adjusting? Thanks! (not sure if this is down to the IFSC or the local organisers).
Israeli announcer endlessly shilling for team Israel probably. The criticism would have been anti something or other. I honestly think this might have been why. The guy really made this broadcast suck instead of gushing over the flawless victory of the Japanese climber we heard the gushing over the 5th place manlet from Israel and how it’s just so inspiring. The internet is not kind when things like that happen. Lmfao.
@@Alternate_Titles he was just supporting his team mate who, all things considered, performed incredibly well. I think everyone can see how well Kokoro Fuji did there was no need to emphasise it even more smh.
@@vesnaklanac4437 If he was team America not shutting up about team America getting 5th and ignoring the winner, I would say the same. But only with Israel do people like you say this. Thank you for literally proving my point hahaha.
@@michicarrillo6755 Are you joking? This was Kokoro's best performance. The announcers spend 30 seconds discussing it, 5 minutes gushing about the short guy from Israel who did not perform well at all compared to the field, he finished 5 out of 6. What is wrong with you people? This was insulting. ANY other group does this, you say so. American, you say "ugh Americans why are they like this." But Israel, for some reason, you are afraid to say something? Wtf is that?
Totoro climbed incredibly well, out of this world, I am sooo happy for him, he deserves it a lot. Being also a strong lead climber...see you in Paris Totoro!!
Kokoa uses his strong muscles, not jolts to his destination. Uses his legs where most don't. He plans and chalks his mapped path, sometimes spending a minute for that, not haste to climbing and wasting time reapplying chalk to the boulders. He is zen all the way, keeping calm and focused, his mind is present, a sense of mastery, enjoying his time, not trying to make a scene (I mean, he spends 1/4 of his time just thinking to himself whilst people wait). It is an overall physical, mental, and psychological mastery. Tomoa too is quite strong and similar; I guess Japan is quite a different school of art.
@31:59 noob here...what does this guy plan to do from that position? Can someone explain? It looks cool, but where are you meant to place your hands next??
Super late reply but here goes: Sometimes it's hard to tell from the ground where your weight will be when you're touching holds in certain ways. He essentially got caught in a dead end of a maze because he could get his weight to stick in those positions and kept following them. The fact they weren't leading toward the top was something he didn't have time to assess in only 4 minutes. If he could have reached over with his left hand at 32:00 he could have tried to grab the zone for a point, and it's honestly hard to tell if he would have been able to do it or not given enough time. It would have been a long reach, but he would have been extending from under the holds pretty well so it was a big maybe that he didn't have enough time to explore. The commentators made a great point at one point: The climbs here aren't always particularly hard, but reading the problem in only 4 minutes always is.
Kokoro couldn't lose after M3 and it is deeply annoying that they didn't get that. The best Tomoa could have done was 3 tops in 6, Kokoro was already at 3 tops in 4.
For somebody like me, which is completely new to the world of boulder sport, can somebody explain me? Why is there no cleaning person in the beginning of the first 10 seconds? I mean 10 seconds are important and can make a difference, isn't it? Or they could wait so that everybody could prepare without losing time.
The commentating about Fujii winning or not was really frustrating. When it was Narasakis turn on M3, he already won after Tomoa didn't do his second attempt, right? After that, Tomoa couldn't even match the 3 tops in 4 attempts which Kokoro had in the bag after the first 3 problems, but the 2 continued talking about him needing a zone to secure his win etc. What I also wonder: Do the commentators have a chance to see what we see at the screen? Because the IFSC tells us right at the beginning of someones round in M3 and M4 what they need to secure a position (for example Marcus needing a top in any amount of attempts on M4 to get 4th) and if they would just look at it they would know as much as the viewer and there is no need to confuse them with false information anymore. Apart from that, the commentary is nice, but this bugs me :D
Thank you!!! It really irritated me too. Kokoro didn't even have to come out for M4, he had already won based on his low number of attempts. Not sure why they were talking about it like it was a nail-biter unless they couldn't see the screen. Or do math...
Lol. I actually came to the comment section hoping to see someone else mention this as I now only got a chance to watch finally days later. I didn't want it to irritate me so much, but it was so annoying! They saw the scoreboard, they talk about the scoreboard, and then they proceed to talk as if they have no idea how the scoring works! Thank you for providing this outlet for me to release this frustration.
Boulder 1 Climber Boulder 2
12:30 - Aleksey Rubtsov - 37:42
17:00 - Anze Peharc - 39:30
21:30 - Nimrod Marcus - 44:15
26:05 - Kokoro Fuji - 49:00
28:14 - Manuel Cornu - 51:12
32:51 - Tomoa Narasaki - 52:40
Boulder 3 Boulder 4
57:35 - Aleksey Rubtsov - 1:21:41
1:02:18 - Anze Peharc - 1:26:17
1:06:30 - Nimrod Marcus - 1:31:12
1:11:15 - Kokoro Fuji - 1:35:45
1:13:30 - Manuel Cornu - 1:39:00
1:18:20 - Tomoa Narasaki - 1:40:55
Thank you!
So Fujii's spelt Fujii... isn't it?
Please just upload this edited
@@nickruiz1828 do it yourself
appreciate the effort, this must have taken ages!
Now that's what the Olympics should have been. Perfect setting with dramatic moments. A mix of moves and good and insightful commentary most of the time. Even the camera work and lighting was way better. One of the best finals in years.
Imo the camera work here was pretty bad, especially during the slabs.
@@waruuum From other competitions it has improved dramatically , I think. Still can be better but they're getting there.
Very true for olympics for men. Not the women tho, Janja is just something else
it's a great step in the right direction. it's fairly new as a competitive sport and there's a lot to integrate
Screw the LOLympics! They are a shadow of its former glory. Next time you will see men in dresses climbe if there stunts continue.
Kokoro definitely ate his Wheaties for breakfast before the competition. Holy smokes! He looked sooo strong! Awesome climbing
@asioe kiou what
Is it a drug tested sport?
@@bastyoits cereal 😂
Although Tomoa is my favourite, i am truly happy for Kokoro. One of the most consistent and hard working climber in the comp. Very well deserved win!
Insane performance by Kokoro Fuji💪
Also great commentating by Matt Groom and Alex Khazanov, always a huge pleasure when they show their massive knowledge of the sport👏
It’s great to see men’s boulder setting that isn’t just coordination dynos. I especially like the incorporation of more slab boulders for the men, which they weren’t tested on as much in the past. And of course congrats to Kokoro on a well-deserved victory, what an absolute beast! He’s been on fire this entire season.
I agree, the constant triple dyno moves are so lame. Give me some more slabs and severe overhangs… I want to be able to SEE the form and strength not just flailing limbs
amazing. I wish I had found out about this sport when I was younger, too old to try but great to watch
I first watched Boulder as a competition at the olympics and was really impressed by it. Clicked this instantly when it was on my main page, even though i don't know anything about the sport and the competitors but it is just so amazing to watch!
So happy for Kokoro Fujii! That was awesome! He dominated the competition tonight. *what a performance*
Kokoro dominates all problems, what a solid win!
Thanx for the spoiler...
@@MartinaSchoppe why would you read the comment section in an ended livestream and expect that no one are talking about the result
@@HajimeChan looking for a "climbing starts at..." comment. Like about everybody else who is not watching it live...
@@MartinaSchoppe well that’s a fair point….
@@MartinaSchoppe then you'll know there's a risk of you reading something like this comment. What a douche comment from you.
You know Nimrod might have come 5th, but I still look up to the guy it shows that even if you might not be tall you can still be an amazing climber. Good to see kokoro improving as well. Very good watch👍
Placing 5th in a world championship among the best of the best is nothing to scoff at! They’re all beasts
Maybe they should do height classes in climbing.
Kokoro is getting better every year! He’s super good on both lead and boulder so hopefully he’ll be able to go to Paris
Certainly looks like that's where he's going! Seems like he's made progress this year. It this final, I nearly mistook him for Janja.
Hopefully the country quotas will be increased for Paris, Japan has so many talented athletes and they definitely deserve more than just 2 spots per gender.
@@ktape3211 100% agree, it's already hard enough to make their men's national team
@@ktape3211 So true. Their talent pool is DEEP!
On that first boulder, that dude from Japan basically did a one-armed pull-up with just his fingers. That was the most impressive raw-strength thing I've ever seen in 20 years.
There are several climbers who can do a 1 finger pull-up.. Some can even do it with their pinky
@@user-ve7hn2dh8h wow, rly? i've never seen that.
i lift weights for almost 2 hours, daily, zero chance I could do a one-armed pull-up.
@@mycommentpwnz oh sorry didn't see your reply.. Yeah that's almost impossible if you're not doing pull-up and campus board training for years. Also you have to be naturally light weight I think
@@user-ve7hn2dh8h To be fair it's an open-handed one up on a terrible sloper. It was an insane move.
@@mycommentpwnz Lifting weights makes you strong and gives you big muscles for pushing movements. Climbers are usually very light, but have only have strong muscles for pulling motions (plus a bit of pushing muscles for balancing out). Pound for pound climbers are one of the strongest athletes in the world, but a bodybuilder or strong man will still smoke them in a lot of strenght related competitions.
climbing starts 12:30
Thanks 🙏🏽
Thank you.
Video starts at 2:11.
What a superb performance by kokoro fujii!!
what a set of boulders, i gotta say. such an amazing comp. 🎉 and Kokoro is an absolute beast, so happy for him 🏅. great commentary too 👍
for me the fact they all made it to this level shows theyre all absolute legends
Kokoro Fujii...wow. That was a complete pleasure to watch. Congrats!!
unfortunate that not seeing Aleksey on the podium in front of his country. Love to hear the crowd cheer for the athletes, even the sound cover the commentators.
Congrats to boulder setters !!!!!
54:15 the precision of his right foot coming from such a big swing is just amazing
I know, crazy
Good catch, straight up chills watching that
I can't fecking grab my fork properly and he does this
What a great final! Kokoro do be poppin off
Thanks for all the great content! Especially because it is available for free.
Totally agreed with Alex's thoughts about Yoshiyuki Ogata @0:06:08. One of the strongest climber with crazy pinching strength. Sad that he's couldn't make final.
Excellent final great commentary from Matt and Alex
Hearing Matt after Olympics commentators is twice as pleasant)
My hands gor sweaty from watching this, GREAT RUSH!
Comp Setting is just getting better and better. Power, tech, sketchy. Everything is there and i get very excited for the future
Kokoro is my favorite climber!! So happy he won!! ❤️
Considering the problems they were having with skin, both Anze & Marcus should be proud of how well they did. Especially after the semi-finals - seeing them here just really makes me wish that we could have seen them climb these with even just slightly better skin. It could have changed the whole way the finals went.
I am super excited about the lineup and having Alex co-commentating.
Kokoro is so talented and strong. Like see, he makes balance with his feet then grabs and he doesnt make useless haste. and he can lift his whole body with ONE ARM!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Always like it when Matt and Alex are commentating together. They vibe nicely together. Very interesting aspects and insights. Inthe Semifinals i had the impression Matt and (the english ;) Alex were talking to each other but not really for the audience, if you get what i mean?! Was nice as well, but in the finals it was more audiencd orientated for me. Anyway nice format to have a lot of diffrent co-commentators. Everyoneof them brings something new and you get to know some awsome climbers better and thatfor liking them even more (how sympatic was Oriane, omg she was amazing, loving her even more after her commentating
Camera work needs a little fine tuning, why on earth do I want to watch zoomed in details shots of their shoes or face while watching their attempt. Leave those for the rest period replays and commentary.
Interesting to see on boulder 3 that the match on the last crimp was the crucial move, and it was only enabled by changing the left foot position from facing right to facing left, opening the hip and making room for the left hand to come in. Only Tomoa and Kokoro pulled that off. The camera selection overall is pretty bad however, preferring to show expressions on their faces or a close up of a hand or foot at a time when the whole body is doing something much more crucial/interesting.
@soiung toiue Not sure if ignorance or nicknaming, but his name is Kokoro
One-arm pull up is a super hard move i agree, but there are many amateur climbers who can do a one-arm pull up. Fuji's boulder 1 was special because of the insane grip strength.
7:59 "The olympics are the olympics because, they are the olympics."
-I will never forget those wise words
Not a big fan of the closeups during the actual attempt. Every contact point along with the position of the body is significant with these routes.
Otherwise great stuff. Thanks!
2022 men’s boulder final not in Russia I’m guessing?
This should have been an Olympic sport years ago its epitomizes the spirit of an Olympian
Props to all the athletes, they all performed wonderful!
It's like kokora and tomoa switched place, tomoa used to be the alien. Anyway perfect setting and final. Can Matt make a little more of those interviews (I know kokoro speaks little English but in general)? More prepared questions and also why not interview the entire podium? These athletes need exposure to live off this, I'm sure they wouldn't mind.
Such a great course. Props to the route setters!
I am a beginner and I was most impressed by Nimrod Marcus. After seeing all the tall dudes struggle, i always thought "how is he supposed to do it?" when Nimrod entered the stage. But then he just did it.
really? You aren't a real person
Fun to watch. I'm living in South Korea now and enjoying bouldering here.
The camera work was a bit too much though.. We often missed critically important hand/body moves because the camera was so close up to their feet. almost all the time right before the top.
Loved Alex's commentary! Get him on more often!
Why do I see a picture of Alex Megos in this video, even though he was not in the final?
That’s the indomitable spirit of Mégos shining through 💪
Amazing route setting.
As I watch this...I realize just how OP mountain goats are....
How about we allow a pause for brushing? Like maybe 2 30 second pauses for brushing the holds since you don’t have designated brushers?
Some of the most f***** up camera work there is. Bravo!
Tomoa made quick work of that last one
Insane performance from Kokoro, so happy for him
I love these competitions 😍. That's how it is. It was so exciting to watch 🤩 Thank you so much again for sharing and the charming moderation 😘😘
That was a great final. No two ways about it.
Why they hell are my hands sweaty watching this?
Imagine you have all these random shapes and you have to screw whichever of them any way you want on a wall and you create such beautiful problems that effect/highlight each person differently that’s a skill in itself
At moments i believe i've progressed in my climbing. Then i saw Fuji and just went: well........guess i need to train harder.
Gravity to Kokoro: "Am I a joke to you ?"
This is my new rabbit hole for sure. Arm chair mountaineer here.
I dont even know whats goin on, but Kokoro Fuji nailed the first climb. Amazing how he pulled himself up with one arm there.
Great route setting
!!!SPOILER!!!
So can anyone tell me why Kokoro was not guaranteed 1st place after the 3rd boulder? He had 3 tops and fewer attempts than Tomoa who was the only one with 2 tops. What am I missing?
Scores at 1:21:16
You're not missing anything. Matt and his sidekick were
Kokoroh no he didn't! What an absolute beast!
I feel bad for complaining about this amazing free footage of IFSC events, but this really grinds my gears: Nimrod's Try on Problem #3 (1:06:40) was probably the worst video coverage ever. I understand that zooming in on small crimps does make a nice shot, but in terms of watching those boulderers making their way up a slab and understanding how exactly they approach it you really desperately want to see their full body movement...
Have you watched the Olympics? That was definitely worse than this
I was yelling at my screen for all the camera work on all of boulder #3. It was impossible to understand anything happening. I don't understand why they did such a competent job on the other three boulders, and totally shat the bed on that one!
Yep infuriating
C'est quand même autre chose que les Jeux Olympiques...
Thank you for the English version. I landed on Russian first.
Great competition and congratulations to Kokoro!
Camera work though disappointed me a lot. So many close ups where they were not needed.. in very crucial moments! Especially, problem 3 was filmed so badly - because of so many close ups on the face and right hand we missed everything what was going on with feet of the athletes.
Amazing competition! If only Aleksey got 3rd would be a perfect finish!
And of course Japan demonstrates they're the strongest in all types of boulders! 頑張れ日本 🇯🇵 🤟
The commentators reveling in how bad some of the tiny holds are are hilarious.
great comp but why so much zooming in?? i want to see the climbing
One of the best events ever.
That's how the Olympics should have been
Sound engineer here : as much as I enjoyed watching this final, the automatic ducking (ie sidechain) set between commentaries and background just threw me off… please don’t 😅 or at least not such a quick release, this makes the listening very tiring.
Second that. I don't understand how the engineer thought this sounds ok. Release is so short you hear the audience popping in between syllables.
Fantastic finals! As much as I love the mics on the wall though, it's often quite hard to hear the commentators over the noise in the arena - perhaps this could be fixed by some level adjusting? Thanks! (not sure if this is down to the IFSC or the local organisers).
Kokoro went full Janja
time stamps would be so nice on these videos.
Wouldn't want a handshake from these fellas. Probably end up with crushed fingers.
Did they just put Alex Megos in the thumbnail... Talk about climbing clickbait
great final! but why was the chat disabled during live, and not for the first time? it used to be so fun chatting to everybody
Israeli announcer endlessly shilling for team Israel probably. The criticism would have been anti something or other.
I honestly think this might have been why. The guy really made this broadcast suck instead of gushing over the flawless victory of the Japanese climber we heard the gushing over the 5th place manlet from Israel and how it’s just so inspiring.
The internet is not kind when things like that happen. Lmfao.
@@Alternate_Titles he was just supporting his team mate who, all things considered, performed incredibly well. I think everyone can see how well Kokoro Fuji did there was no need to emphasise it even more smh.
@@Alternate_Titles I think you are "anti something".
@@vesnaklanac4437 If he was team America not shutting up about team America getting 5th and ignoring the winner, I would say the same.
But only with Israel do people like you say this.
Thank you for literally proving my point hahaha.
@@michicarrillo6755 Are you joking? This was Kokoro's best performance. The announcers spend 30 seconds discussing it, 5 minutes gushing about the short guy from Israel who did not perform well at all compared to the field, he finished 5 out of 6.
What is wrong with you people? This was insulting. ANY other group does this, you say so. American, you say "ugh Americans why are they like this." But Israel, for some reason, you are afraid to say something? Wtf is that?
Kokoro became the flash of climbing
My hands and wrists hurt just from looking at those boulders
These multiple discipline championships are so brutal if you take part in multiple disciplines
Кокоро красавчик!
Kokoro my god is a beast 🙏
Totoro climbed incredibly well, out of this world, I am sooo happy for him, he deserves it a lot. Being also a strong lead climber...see you in Paris Totoro!!
Awesome 😮😮😮
What a beast
that fujii dudes insane
Kokoa uses his strong muscles, not jolts to his destination. Uses his legs where most don't. He plans and chalks his mapped path, sometimes spending a minute for that, not haste to climbing and wasting time reapplying chalk to the boulders. He is zen all the way, keeping calm and focused, his mind is present, a sense of mastery, enjoying his time, not trying to make a scene (I mean, he spends 1/4 of his time just thinking to himself whilst people wait). It is an overall physical, mental, and psychological mastery. Tomoa too is quite strong and similar; I guess Japan is quite a different school of art.
That first problem was absurd.
japan say "slowly but surely" they really do step by step 🥶
@31:59 noob here...what does this guy plan to do from that position? Can someone explain? It looks cool, but where are you meant to place your hands next??
Super late reply but here goes:
Sometimes it's hard to tell from the ground where your weight will be when you're touching holds in certain ways. He essentially got caught in a dead end of a maze because he could get his weight to stick in those positions and kept following them. The fact they weren't leading toward the top was something he didn't have time to assess in only 4 minutes. If he could have reached over with his left hand at 32:00 he could have tried to grab the zone for a point, and it's honestly hard to tell if he would have been able to do it or not given enough time. It would have been a long reach, but he would have been extending from under the holds pretty well so it was a big maybe that he didn't have enough time to explore.
The commentators made a great point at one point: The climbs here aren't always particularly hard, but reading the problem in only 4 minutes always is.
@@suhnshaiene thanks! makes sense!
kokoro, nice!
Kokoro couldn't lose after M3 and it is deeply annoying that they didn't get that. The best Tomoa could have done was 3 tops in 6, Kokoro was already at 3 tops in 4.
too much unnecessary close up shot ... totoally pointless
For somebody like me, which is completely new to the world of boulder sport, can somebody explain me?
Why is there no cleaning person in the beginning of the first 10 seconds? I mean 10 seconds are important and can make a difference, isn't it? Or they could wait so that everybody could prepare without losing time.
I'm amazed by how short all these top athletes are! Height is clearly not that important compared to the skill needed at this level..
being short is an advantage…
The less your height , the less your weight. For such sports being light weight is very important.
The commentating about Fujii winning or not was really frustrating. When it was Narasakis turn on M3, he already won after Tomoa didn't do his second attempt, right? After that, Tomoa couldn't even match the 3 tops in 4 attempts which Kokoro had in the bag after the first 3 problems, but the 2 continued talking about him needing a zone to secure his win etc.
What I also wonder: Do the commentators have a chance to see what we see at the screen? Because the IFSC tells us right at the beginning of someones round in M3 and M4 what they need to secure a position (for example Marcus needing a top in any amount of attempts on M4 to get 4th) and if they would just look at it they would know as much as the viewer and there is no need to confuse them with false information anymore.
Apart from that, the commentary is nice, but this bugs me :D
Thank you!!! It really irritated me too. Kokoro didn't even have to come out for M4, he had already won based on his low number of attempts. Not sure why they were talking about it like it was a nail-biter unless they couldn't see the screen. Or do math...
Lol. I actually came to the comment section hoping to see someone else mention this as I now only got a chance to watch finally days later. I didn't want it to irritate me so much, but it was so annoying! They saw the scoreboard, they talk about the scoreboard, and then they proceed to talk as if they have no idea how the scoring works! Thank you for providing this outlet for me to release this frustration.
Pahahahahaha, I was laughing so hard when Kokoro came out for M1. He gotta be in some of the best shape I've seen! That was disgusting!
those guys make gravity look more like a suggestion than law