If you ever find that end of a plug connector (the one with the female ends), and cannot source a replacement, try this: Take the male end receiver (in this case, the top of the solenoid) and create a "river bank" all the way around with duct tape (several layers) or pasteboard from a box (inked side toward the connectors). Carefully wrap each female connector tightly in a single layer of electrician's tap. Shape the pond dam as square as you can, and make sure that it is at least a quarter inch higher than the business ends of the connectors. If possible, get it even or just over where the crimp points would be on the connector. Rub a tiny amount of vaseline around the inside of the outer walls of the connector and the inside of the pasteboard or duct tape walls. A _tiny_ amount! You just want it a little bit oily to the touch. Install your new wires with new female connectors. Slit the reservoir with a razor on two opposite sides. Pick a spot between the connectors, if possible, but at least a quarter-inch below the top of the reservoir. Run a long (but as narrow as you can find) zip tie) through the slit, leaving plenty hanging out on each end. Remember not to make your slits any wider than the zip tie is. Mix a small amount of fiberglass resin (you don't really need any glass mat or shreds of "cat fur"). push the resin in and work it around all the connectors. Fill the entire reservoir you have created with the duct tape or pasteboard. Pack it firmly, but you can't really compress it. Make sure that you get the voids between the connectors and under and over the zip tie. Let it cure _completely_. Fiberglass doesn't like to stick to the nylon and HDPE plastics most of those connectors are made of; it certainly doesn't like to stick to Vaseline. When it has completely cured, remove whatever material you used to build up the reservoir, cutting it away from the zip tie as well. First, test the adhesion to the zip tie. Depending on what your ziptie was made of, you might be able to pull it out. Don't, but remember this for next time: if you have the same zip ties next time, place one on top the other and shove them through, creating a gap that is large enough to easily remove and re-install new zip ties down the road. It doesn't matter if the zip tie does not slip out-- as this hole is only one zip tie thick, you'd have the devil's own time trying to shove a new one through there anyway. No matter what the results of the test where, leave this zip tie in place. See, you can't make a new latch or a new lock like this-- fiberglass is too brittle; the mold is more complex than you think, etc, etc. But it will hold a zip-tie, and that will serve as half of your new "latch" to hold the plug tight. DO NOT TIE THE ZIP TIE TO ITSELF! If you do, you have to cut it to remove the plug later, and you can't really get another one in there. Use a second zip tie to attach to the this one. It doesn't matter if this one is a bit long; that actually helps down the road, as you will have to cut both ends of the bottom zip tie to remove the fiberglass plug so that the imbedded zip tie can be reused in place when you at some point down the road have to open the connection for testing. You were able to source a new plug, which is great, but if you can't, you at least have a fallback to create an insulated, securable plug. --Duke
Did you ever get this bike up and running right? If so what did you discover why it wouldn't throttle above idle? I have the identical bike. Its been sitting for 10yrs. Drained tank semi cleaned the carbs and tank. Idles great but stumbles on throttle. Any advice is appreciated. I did order a new filter and fuel pump as they were loaded up with rustey fuel.
I got mad at this bike and moved on to something else. I do need to get back to it. I also bought a new rate control switch to see if maybe it wasn’t letting enough power through. I’ll have to go back and watch all my videos, see where I left off systematically start testing it again.
If you ever find that end of a plug connector (the one with the female ends), and cannot source a replacement, try this: Take the male end receiver (in this case, the top of the solenoid) and create a "river bank" all the way around with duct tape (several layers) or pasteboard from a box (inked side toward the connectors). Carefully wrap each female connector tightly in a single layer of electrician's tap. Shape the pond dam as square as you can, and make sure that it is at least a quarter inch higher than the business ends of the connectors. If possible, get it even or just over where the crimp points would be on the connector.
Rub a tiny amount of vaseline around the inside of the outer walls of the connector and the inside of the pasteboard or duct tape walls. A _tiny_ amount! You just want it a little bit oily to the touch. Install your new wires with new female connectors. Slit the reservoir with a razor on two opposite sides. Pick a spot between the connectors, if possible, but at least a quarter-inch below the top of the reservoir. Run a long (but as narrow as you can find) zip tie) through the slit, leaving plenty hanging out on each end. Remember not to make your slits any wider than the zip tie is.
Mix a small amount of fiberglass resin (you don't really need any glass mat or shreds of "cat fur"). push the resin in and work it around all the connectors. Fill the entire reservoir you have created with the duct tape or pasteboard. Pack it firmly, but you can't really compress it. Make sure that you get the voids between the connectors and under and over the zip tie. Let it cure _completely_.
Fiberglass doesn't like to stick to the nylon and HDPE plastics most of those connectors are made of; it certainly doesn't like to stick to Vaseline. When it has completely cured, remove whatever material you used to build up the reservoir, cutting it away from the zip tie as well.
First, test the adhesion to the zip tie. Depending on what your ziptie was made of, you might be able to pull it out. Don't, but remember this for next time: if you have the same zip ties next time, place one on top the other and shove them through, creating a gap that is large enough to easily remove and re-install new zip ties down the road.
It doesn't matter if the zip tie does not slip out-- as this hole is only one zip tie thick, you'd have the devil's own time trying to shove a new one through there anyway. No matter what the results of the test where, leave this zip tie in place.
See, you can't make a new latch or a new lock like this-- fiberglass is too brittle; the mold is more complex than you think, etc, etc. But it will hold a zip-tie, and that will serve as half of your new "latch" to hold the plug tight. DO NOT TIE THE ZIP TIE TO ITSELF! If you do, you have to cut it to remove the plug later, and you can't really get another one in there. Use a second zip tie to attach to the this one. It doesn't matter if this one is a bit long; that actually helps down the road, as you will have to cut both ends of the bottom zip tie to remove the fiberglass plug so that the imbedded zip tie can be reused in place when you at some point down the road have to open the connection for testing.
You were able to source a new plug, which is great, but if you can't, you at least have a fallback to create an insulated, securable plug.
--Duke
Did you ever get this bike up and running right?
If so what did you discover why it wouldn't throttle above idle?
I have the identical bike. Its been sitting for 10yrs. Drained tank semi cleaned the carbs and tank. Idles great but stumbles on throttle. Any advice is appreciated. I did order a new filter and fuel pump as they were loaded up with rustey fuel.
I got mad at this bike and moved on to something else. I do need to get back to it. I also bought a new rate control switch to see if maybe it wasn’t letting enough power through. I’ll have to go back and watch all my videos, see where I left off systematically start testing it again.