I think opting for the lighter valves during the head work phase is a good idea. Might as well go with the screw-in studs for the roller rockers too. It’s headed in that direction anyway. The first peek at the piston tops and cylinder crosshatch verified that you got a solid core to work with. Looking good Brent !
Brent, thanks for putting in the work with this salvage yard 302. Looking forward to seeing what you're going to do with the lightweight crankshaft in a future iteration.
It would be nice to see what a compression bump would do. Thin head gasket (shim steel?) or milling the head or both?? Really like this approach of limited changes vs returns !!!
Hey Brent, I love the videos, came for the Fe stuff, and stayed for the windsor stuff. (Have both). You are very knowledgeable in that old iron, keeping it alive and relevant. You talked about switching to 8 mm valves. Is that something a guy can do in his shop? Reason I'm asking is I have a set of gt40x heads and have to helicoil or timecert a few holes. (Got them used, good price, found out why). So if im tearing them down to down to do that might as well upgrade while im in there.the closest machine shop is 150 miles away, they are 3 months out and like to bump small jobs down for big things like logging equipment and farm machinery as it pays much better. They even bump shops down( my brother has a light duty shop and had that happen to him a few times)
Through,methodical change one at a time,true testing, BUT time consuming expensive,. "Admiral" thanks Brent.. Few have the restraint and remain confused! Nuff Said
Instead of individual stud mounted rockers , how about the bolt on adjustable shaft mount rollers that come in pairs. The money saved on machining could go into a shaft mount system??
Don't let us, the commenters, direct the choices of Triple J all that much. You are the one with the knowledge we come here to learn, therefore be top dog liberally.
First I got to say Brent, you’s guys comments, that is not ky talk, more like northern Michigan 😂 had 7 aunts that were born and raised there and that’s how they talked. Ky is like more y’all’s comments 😂
As a porter with 52 years of experience, I have flow tested extrude honed intakes and found that they do not equalize the flow in each port, nor increase the flow significantly. It simply smoothes the surface imperfections, and will only make the ports larger if the media is kept flowing for a longer time. The best extrude hone jobs had the ports rough ported first, straightened the walls, turns, and removed machined edges under the seats. Extrude hone flow quality depends on how much time and pressure the media was forced through a port, and how the operator follows up with clean-up afterwards. You pay extra for multiple trips through the media/matrix. The problem is getting thin in the wrong places with the extrude hone process if they do use more pressure or time. Having said this, many porting shops have turned to rough texture in the intake tract to keep fuel in suspension.
I have 3 sets of those heads and a couple of 302 blocks. I want to put together some engines over 400hp with these heads. Thanx for sticking with the GT40P heads. I know 500hp is the suggested limit for the block. Im curious how close to 500hp you can get.
Brent, bolts are one timers, it's like a $10-15 difference to just use the ARP bolts. I'm 95% sure they are TTY, it's been 30 years since I played with them. I believe the outside short bolts enter the water jacket and have sealant. Ford has a habit of saying everything is one time use because of pre-applied sealers/locking compounds. For the $50 I'll donate you a set of ARP bolts.
I think opting for the lighter valves during the head work phase is a good idea. Might as well go with the screw-in studs for the roller rockers too. It’s headed in that direction anyway. The first peek at the piston tops and cylinder crosshatch verified that you got a solid core to work with. Looking good Brent !
Thanks Brent. I've yet to see a SBF not gain significantly from some mild exhaust port work.
Brent, thanks for putting in the work with this salvage yard 302. Looking forward to seeing what you're going to do with the lightweight crankshaft in a future iteration.
This is a interesting series, I'm really enjoying this.
They’re torque to yield
Great update, can't😁👍 wait to see the next step.
It would be nice to see what a compression bump would do. Thin head gasket (shim steel?) or milling the head or both??
Really like this approach of limited changes vs returns !!!
65 cc 😱😱😱
I would have liked to stick with bolt-down rockers. But if it doesn't make sense, it's not the right path.
On the Rocker front look into the Yella Terra ST2046 & ST2047 as a bolt on?
Awesome video Brent! 🇺🇸💪🏼 can’t wait till it hits the dyno again!
Thanks!
Hey Brent, I love the videos, came for the Fe stuff, and stayed for the windsor stuff. (Have both). You are very knowledgeable in that old iron, keeping it alive and relevant. You talked about switching to 8 mm valves. Is that something a guy can do in his shop? Reason I'm asking is I have a set of gt40x heads and have to helicoil or timecert a few holes. (Got them used, good price, found out why). So if im tearing them down to down to do that might as well upgrade while im in there.the closest machine shop is 150 miles away, they are 3 months out and like to bump small jobs down for big things like logging equipment and farm machinery as it pays much better. They even bump shops down( my brother has a light duty shop and had that happen to him a few times)
Through,methodical change one at a time,true testing, BUT time consuming expensive,. "Admiral" thanks Brent..
Few have the restraint and remain confused! Nuff Said
Crane made a pedestal roller rocker and I think someone picked those up and I would use the same valves because you run into shrouding issues.
Make sure to get them shaved!
Head work! 👍👍😎🤜💥
How do we pitch in? Link?
New lighter valves with 8mm stems and a GOOD valve job. It would be nice to see what that does before porting. If that's possible. Thanks!
It's dyno time money and a day's worth of my time every time I take it to the dyno. Checking every iteration like that just isn't feasible.
Instead of individual stud mounted rockers , how about the bolt on adjustable shaft mount rollers that come in pairs. The money saved on machining could go into a shaft mount system??
The heads still have to be machined for those, unfortunately. The pedestals are too high.
Don't let us, the commenters, direct the choices of Triple J all that much. You are the one with the knowledge we come here to learn, therefore be top dog liberally.
Is the new Valve Train going to be lighter and stronger, a good port job would provide more flow witch means more power Better Camshafts too.👍
.043 Head gasket and .010 in the hole pistons = .053 Quench = Not good
Maybe a thinner MLS head gasket for better Quench and more Compression Ratio?
First I got to say Brent, you’s guys comments, that is not ky talk, more like northern Michigan 😂 had 7 aunts that were born and raised there and that’s how they talked. Ky is like more y’all’s comments 😂
Was wondering how good that water belt drive does thinking of using one
Brent, any thoughts on Extrude Hone vs standard head porting ?
As a porter with 52 years of experience, I have flow tested extrude honed intakes and found that they do not equalize the flow in each port, nor increase the flow significantly. It simply smoothes the surface imperfections, and will only make the ports larger if the media is kept flowing for a longer time. The best extrude hone jobs had the ports rough ported first, straightened the walls, turns, and removed machined edges under the seats. Extrude hone flow quality depends on how much time and pressure the media was forced through a port, and how the operator follows up with clean-up afterwards. You pay extra for multiple trips through the media/matrix. The problem is getting thin in the wrong places with the extrude hone process if they do use more pressure or time. Having said this, many porting shops have turned to rough texture in the intake tract to keep fuel in suspension.
I have 3 sets of those heads and a couple of 302 blocks. I want to put together some engines over 400hp with these heads. Thanx for sticking with the GT40P heads. I know 500hp is the suggested limit for the block. Im curious how close to 500hp you can get.
The prep plays into it, but a lot of the blocks will take a lot more than 500 hp. I've built three engines using these blocks that approach 550 hp.
@@lykinsmotorsports that's good to know. I really think 500hp in a 53 F100 would be more than enough. Lol
What’s the block? Just wandering
352 FE, from previous videos. Edit: sorry, got mixed up. It's. A small block.
GT40P Explorer engine
@@chstra45, you scared me for a second.
Brent, bolts are one timers, it's like a $10-15 difference to just use the ARP bolts. I'm 95% sure they are TTY, it's been 30 years since I played with them. I believe the outside short bolts enter the water jacket and have sealant. Ford has a habit of saying everything is one time use because of pre-applied sealers/locking compounds. For the $50 I'll donate you a set of ARP bolts.
Sounds like a lot more money in those heads. Will they be as good as the other heads for the same money investment?