I've used them no problem. I wouldn't understand why there would be any problem when in the first place you had just the exposed cable sitting there. If you can use things in a J box why not use them on wire behind drywall. Same connection.
I believe the latter connection shown in the video is okay. Wago in line, in the wall is a code violation. It is because it cannot handle any significant stress. There is an all metal equivalent of the same that is in wall approved. I haven't been able to find one lately. The more acceptable thing to do in drywall is add a junction box, put a blank cover on it, that is not covered by dry wall
@@shakyzeg i don't follow the significant stress. I tried to pull apart an inline Wago. Its hard. Wago tests show current in a Wago connection exceeds the wire capacity. My bet is the code isn't up to date enough for Wago connections. It can't be for protection since you can drill into the romex wire in the wall as easily as a Wago connector.
I have used the TE connector for an in-wall connection 12 years ago. No worries there, it still working well. If you think about it, it is much better than wire nuts and those are used everywhere, even in electrical panels.
… how do you *possibly* come to the conclusion these shitty ass connectors are better than wire nuts?! The insulation piercing connectors were originally for phone wiring. Never yet seen one that works properly for high amps.
By adding in a receptacle is a great idea, but on the same note it's not code compliant now. Wires are to short now extending from the box. I forgot what NEC code # this is off the top of my head. But I know tit's not code compliant.
@@rshoe1023 NEC 300.14 refers to the section of the National Electrical Code that specifies the minimum length of "free conductor" required at outlets, junctions, and switch points, stating that at least 6 inches of free conductor must be left at each point, measured from where the conductor emerges from its raceway or cable sheath, allowing for splicing or connecting devices; this length can be spliced or unspliced.
Zero slack or negative slack (wires are not even close) you would double up on one of the three methods and add connector wire between. I am not sure what code says about two of these methods close together. Check the code to be sure
Mount the box facing outward and past the edge of the framing about 1/2". When someone installs drywall the box will not be covered. Seen inspectors fail the side mounted boxes for this very reason.
Yeah, I am sure these inline connectors have been tested and got approval...but I would absolutely not trust that thing, because I do not trust the connection it would make with an insulator puncture connection.. I'd like to see what the temperatures of that are when it has 20 amps running thru it.
The third method is piece of grab , I have seen it burnt inside the wall , that is fire hazard, this method should not be allowed to bury inside the wall. The junction box with wire nuts if you make sure it is tight it is even better than this method, but funny code not allow junction box with tight connections inside the wall but code allow this piece of grab to be concealed in the wall. Electrician is my trade and I have been doing this work over 35 years, I have seen all kind of loose connections that lead to fire. Definitely the third method should not be allowed
Ty for teaching new NEC regs. But it still kinda sounds like it has To inside if a junction box imo. Idk. The leglaleese crap drives me insane. But your way would prob be in an none accessible box and legal I would think. Maybe. Lol
@@johnreichow907 It has to do with safety. Just because you shut off the power, that doesn't mean someone else can't turn it back on while you are working on that ciruit.
When you use a metal box in increase the chance if a fire about 50%,you should always use plastic box's and by local code there should be wing nuts that tend to fall off that I don't agree with!!
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Wagon makes an"in line" connector now, 221-2401. Nice video! Thank you!
Can these be used without a junction box?
Generally no. Some area allow shrink tubing over the top.
I've used them no problem. I wouldn't understand why there would be any problem when in the first place you had just the exposed cable sitting there. If you can use things in a J box why not use them on wire behind drywall. Same connection.
I believe the latter connection shown in the video is okay. Wago in line, in the wall is a code violation. It is because it cannot handle any significant stress. There is an all metal equivalent of the same that is in wall approved. I haven't been able to find one lately. The more acceptable thing to do in drywall is add a junction box, put a blank cover on it, that is not covered by dry wall
@@shakyzeg i don't follow the significant stress. I tried to pull apart an inline Wago. Its hard. Wago tests show current in a Wago connection exceeds the wire capacity. My bet is the code isn't up to date enough for Wago connections. It can't be for protection since you can drill into the romex wire in the wall as easily as a Wago connector.
I have used the TE connector for an in-wall connection 12 years ago. No worries there, it still working well. If you think about it, it is much better than wire nuts and those are used everywhere, even in electrical panels.
… how do you *possibly* come to the conclusion these shitty ass connectors are better than wire nuts?! The insulation piercing connectors were originally for phone wiring. Never yet seen one that works properly for high amps.
NO WAY!
I love watching your show! I always feel smarter as a DIYer. Thanks for sharing these methods.
Thank you so much friend 🙏🏽😊
Those in line connectors are fine...they have been used in the manufactured / modular home building industry for decades now...🛠🛠
Ive never seen these before, kind of remind me of those junk 3M Scotch Loks.
Always very good video ………for DYI’r
Thank you so much my friend! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I love this channel.
Thank you so much my friend! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Converting a bad section of cable into a working outlet is like making lemonade from lemons. I like it👍
By adding in a receptacle is a great idea, but on the same note it's not code compliant now. Wires are to short now extending from the box. I forgot what NEC code # this is off the top of my head. But I know tit's not code compliant.
@@rshoe1023 Wires need to extend at least 6" out from anchor points in box.
@@rshoe1023 NEC 300.14 refers to the section of the National Electrical Code that specifies the minimum length of "free conductor" required at outlets, junctions, and switch points, stating that at least 6 inches of free conductor must be left at each point, measured from where the conductor emerges from its raceway or cable sheath, allowing for splicing or connecting devices; this length can be spliced or unspliced.
Very nice. But I wish you would have shown how to deal with a damaged wire with no slack at all.
No worries! For no slack just easily use pigtails 👍🏽😊
Zero slack or negative slack (wires are not even close) you would double up on one of the three methods and add connector wire between. I am not sure what code says about two of these methods close together. Check the code to be sure
All splices should be accessible.
They do have heat shrink connectors for 12 gauge wire.
Thank you for the info my friend 🙏🏽😊
More inaccessible splices have been buried in walls by licensed electricians than there are honest politicians.
Thank you. Not sure about the 3rd option though.
Thank you brotha 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
This video was very helpful thank you sir
Did i not see the link for the TE connector in the description?
Where can I buy the TE connector?
Amazon
How bout and break in a outside rated black romex cable that would need to be waterproof?
how do you do it inside a ceptic tank
Mount the box facing outward and past the edge of the framing about 1/2". When someone installs drywall the box will not be covered. Seen inspectors fail the side mounted boxes for this very reason.
So, using wire nuts to splice the wires together is not recommended?
Would you recommend using those connectors to splice 8 gauge electrical stove wires. Please let me know
A rat chewed threw the wires above my beaker box. Do I use this methods you used or do I need to invest in a hole new wiring system? What do I do? :{
Omg thanks for your video
What would you suggest if the Romex cable does not have enough to pull to make it connect ?
Use 2 boxes. one on each side and then add a piece of cable in the middle to each box
Yeah, I am sure these inline connectors have been tested and got approval...but I would absolutely not trust that thing, because I do not trust the connection it would make with an insulator puncture connection.. I'd like to see what the temperatures of that are when it has 20 amps running thru it.
I’m not seeing a link from the TE connector. Where can I get them?
The third method is piece of grab , I have seen it burnt inside the wall , that is fire hazard, this method should not be allowed to bury inside the wall. The junction box with wire nuts if you make sure it is tight it is even better than this method, but funny code not allow junction box with tight connections inside the wall but code allow this piece of grab to be concealed in the wall. Electrician is my trade and I have been doing this work over 35 years, I have seen all kind of loose connections that lead to fire. Definitely the third method should not be allowed
Ty for teaching new NEC regs. But it still kinda sounds like it has To inside if a junction box imo. Idk. The leglaleese crap drives me insane. But your way would prob be in an none accessible box and legal I would think. Maybe. Lol
can you just tape it?
AH no!
All splices need to forever be accessible.
Not sure how useful any of this is considering there’s usually not enough slack in lines.
TE looks like pure fire hazard!!!
What is wrong with you? You should ALWAYS connect the ground followed by the neutral and the hot wire LAST.
What difference does it make, as long as the power is off ??
@@johnreichow907 It has to do with safety. Just because you shut off the power, that doesn't mean someone else can't turn it back on while you are working on that ciruit.
👍🏿 agrees with @trukin74 I have seen this happen where someone was shocked 😳 because someone turned the power on at a job site.
@@trukin74
Should tag the CB as not to turn on.
When you use a metal box in increase the chance if a fire about 50%,you should always use plastic box's and by local code there should be wing nuts that tend to fall off that I don't agree with!!