Took y’all’s advice on the key 200 with my 4Runner and I love it. Just picked up a Tundra and was hoping I could do an L7T 12” with the key 500. Lo and behold, here’s the video. Thank you soooo much.
Kicker should make a 100 watt x4 key amp and a 6 channel kicker key amp with 6 dedicated outputs 2 for tweeters, 2 for the midwoofers, and 2 for the rear coaxs. Then a kicker key 5 and 7 channel amps that does the speakers and subwoofers in one stop shop.
I finished installing the 500 today to power a Kicker TRTP 12. I also have the Key 180.4. I previously had a 300 watt JL mini amp so I didn't really upgrade in power but I did notice that with the 500.1, the bass is actually omnidirectional where as before I could always tell the bass was coming from the rear hatch. I also added the bass knob which has come in handy. Even though the boost is only 6db's, it's still a noticeable difference at lower volumes. I have an aftermarket HU so I didn't really think the Key features would come into play but it may have done something to make it sound more omnidirectional but I haven't really listened to enough music to know for certain or if it was just because of that particular song I tested. But the easy to set gain and bass knob made it worth the swap for me.
Are you grabbing the front high level signal for the 200.4 and the rear high level signal for the 500.1? Assuming the key doesn’t have a pass-through feature
I'm soooo glad kicker is coming back into the audio world. What I mean is in my opinion when kicker went square subs everything became, well cheap. I was a huge kicker fan in the 90s. Loved the first solo's too. But when they went square everything at least to me seemed to be more oriented for the beginer audio to the lower lever guys. Budget friendly yes, but there wasnt the old still water goodness. The warhorse while a true feet of audio engineering was the only thing I have seen from them in years. That is untell the key amps. These in my mind puts kicker right back into the mix with the killer koreans. At least for me this is a product that will bring me back to kicker. I still have so many old kicker products. I'm glad to add some new to the mix. You may disagree with me on this, but I'm by no means alone on the feelings.
@A. Melbs I don't even remember posting this haha. But anyway I mounted it on the cup holder middle section in the rear seats. I used little spacers under the feet to help with air flow and have it so the middle section can be folded up and not cause issues with wires. Hope this helps.
I just bought a used 2019 Rav4 non jbl system. I was thing maybe if running the 4 channel and sub kicker key amp under the glove box high level. Have you guys ever worked on one of these vehicles? Just to get some insight. Thanks!
Most all cars really similar and obviously sick what you want but myself this would not be my pick! I like the auto adjust on the gain but I would go more serious! #1 after market head unit!!! #2 high amp alternator!! #3 get some 14 volt batteries!Then for my money ($256) I would run the hifonics BRX3016.1D which puts out up to 2200 watt RMS !! On 2- 15'S with all that said there are many amps out there that will out perform this tiny system and I will also add that the equiptment he's pushing is over priced and low powered! Has a nice tuning feature but any stereo shop worth their own salt or anyone with ears should be able to properly set up equiptment or tune a system! So it's sort of a redundant feature! I miss setting up systems myself but I would recomend shop around& look at other equiptment! I know maybe it's size is your goal but know that other manufactures needs space saving amp's too!
Hi there I've been viewing your channel 👍 I have a question and I'm pretty sure you have an answer I like old school music like WAR Commodores Chicago Tom petty like bands had a lot of acustic and brass I like hear background music along with, which amp would you recommend for this to happen?
Curious... Why don't you ever use nutserts in the ABS when mounting the amps? Also... What do you do with excess RCA cables when you run from the back to the front? Just tuck it away under the dash?
@Michael Paredes Nutserts would protrude too far on the underside/backside of most of the thin 1/8"-1/4" ABS plastic sheet that they use. And the rivit type nutserts will not "hold" in soft plastics...they will break free and spin with very little torque applied. The other type of inner & outer threaded inserts that "screw into" wood or plastics with a hex or allen key driver require at least 3/8"-1/2" thick material, which they rarely use. They answered the RCA question in one of their livestream videos a few episodes back... They test the length & routing of various RCA interconnect cables in the car before actually installing them, and then choose the shortest RCA interconnect that will comfortably reach between the two components. If it is still too long, they try to find another naturally good path or route that uses up the extra length of cable without having to bunch up the excess at either end.
its so wierd to me that the 4 channel does not have any pass thru? like are you getting signal from high level for both amps by splitting it? this is one thing noone has covered. blows my mind that these are this advanced but miss like the one feature that would make installing them together acutely easy? or am i missing somehing hopefully i am
Since you guys have quite a bit of experience with the KEY amps now and talked to the guy that created them....How do you think the DSP would work for an open air UTV? I was debating about grabbing one for that purpose.
I got the kicker key 500.1 working. I was dealing with a bad remote wire. Follow up question can I use the high input from out of the Kicker Key 200.4 to the input of the Kicker Key 500.1? Will it sound ok?
I loved the results of the kicker key 200.4, so I decided to go with the kicker key 500.1 when adding a subwoofer. I can’t seem to figure out why I’m not getting any sound out of the 500.1. I have a solids green power light but no sound. Is this normal until the programming is done?
Did you purposely leave the LPF at 160hz and the HPF at at 10hz? As I understand it, you do this when using a factory headunit that has non-defeatable built-in crossover points. This way your not doing double crossover points or else you could run into phase issues (comb filtering?). However, how do you know what the factory sets those points at and if they'll be sufficient to use a with a larger or more powerful sub/amp combo?
Power wise it would be a decent match but what ohm rating is your 10? That's the question you would want an amp that pushes the power you want at the ohm rating of your speaker! Most amps put out may power at 2 or 1 ohm so if you 10 is a 4 ohm then no it wouldn't be good!
@@chrisdixon9504 being 2 ohm this opens the doors to just about any amp! Any decent 500 RMS amp at 2 ohm should do and remember distortion kills not power so 500 clean watts but then again 2 ohm also brings up the distortion of the amp! I personally think you should consider swapping the 10 for 2 12 duel 4'S wired series parallel to 1 ohm and get ya a good 1000 watt! But you know monday morning quarterbacking with my should'a, could'a ,would'as
I have a dumb question... I know there's a kicker key 4 channel amp that you're pairing with the key 500 mano amp.... I Looked through the key five hundred mano amp and the key 4 channel 200 amp online manuals and I didn't see a passthrough to send a base signal from the 4 channel to the mano.... Does that mean you're taping into a front or rear speaker wire to send a signal to the key 500..
Question on the subsonic filter; for a sealed 8" box, roughly what should that be set at? I've heard the filter is mainly for ported boxes (meaning you can turn it all the way to 10 for a sealed box), but figured I'd ask in case the interwebs have led me to the wrong conclusion
Drivers in sealed enclosures don’t need subsonic filters. They’re only needed with ported enclosures because below the port tuning frequency the driver will unload. It’s really easy to damage a driver when played lower than the driver’s Fs. When set correctly, a subsonic filter will stop that happening. I’m a sealed enclosure the air in the box will prevent the driver from unloading. The air acts as an additional suspension for the cone.
I’m wondering if you can give me some input. I have a 2021 Nissan titan with the fender Soundsystem which has no bass there’s a subwoofer under the passenger seat which I would like to remove sub from the box and substitute it for a kicker shell mount 8 inch sub i’m curious to know if I use the four wires going to the sub as it’s a sub input will it have the power to turn the kicker 47key5001 on
While you are adjusting the sub gain with the volume at 70%. How do you keep the other speakers in the system from playing very loudly? I noticed that while you were adjusting that subs amp the other speakers weren't playing.
I have the kicker key 180 running jl audi c2 components active in the front of my audi rs4 saloon it sounds excellent, I use a kenwood 5180 dabs. I have a sub amp setup in the boot and removed the standard woofer in the shelf to let the bass into the cabin, Is there a reason this sub amp doesn’t do time alignment for the sub with a mic, would this not be useful or doesn’t it matter on a sub? Love to hear your thoughts. Great video as usual.
David, I will try to not dive too deep here but get you an answer. You can express how far away a sound or point of sound is in distance measurements (mm, cm, m, in, ft, yd) or in time measurements (344 meters per second, 1132 ft per second for sound in air at sea level). This is important because the two can talk about the same thing but in different expressions. It can be 1 second away or 1132 feet away, both say the same thing. We use time delay to make a speaker or origin point of sound appear to be further away from us. More time = Further distance. When you look at time alignment, you can't speed things up and make them closer to you; you can only delay them. Delay in time = Further away from you. What this means is that the subwoofer in 99.9% of the applications is the furthest speaker away from you, you can't get it any closer to you in space, you could push it further away from you but that is not what you need in most instances. In most instances you need to push all the other drivers,speaker origin points further away from you to be the same distance as the subwoofer. Make sense? This is why their is no time Delay on the Key500.1, it won't help you. In a "perfect" setup you delay all other speaker points to be the same distance away from you as the subwoofer then you steer the center image towards the center of the car by delaying the left channel appropriately vs the right. EQ steering is also beneficial but that is an even deeper dive. I hope this gives you some insight.
Kip Litsey amazing thanks so much, fully understand, I’m thinking to delay the fronts more (the kicker amp I have has a mic to do time alignment) I could increase the distance manually in the head unit and do all 4 front speakers the same distance as the kicker amp then works it’s magic after the source unit. Or maybe I recline the drivers seat back as far as it’ll go with the mic on it and re time align it. I’ll have a play around but thanks again for the knowledge, much appreciated 👍👍
@@dwdrum11 Yes, if you want to time align the input to the key amplifier to align with your sub, measure how far it is from your ear in the (SP) seating position to the (PD) passenger door speaker and (DD) driver door speaker. Then measure from your ear in the (SP) seating position to your (SW) subwoofer location. Now... (SP to SW) - (SP to DD) = Left Delay (SP to SW) - (SP to PD) = Right Delay These delays are what you would put in your head unit so that the entire front speaker system is delayed to be time aligned to your subwoofer. Now, the EQ and time alignment in the Key 4 channel will be all about tonality and center channel steering, just like it is doing now. As always, tweak away.
KICKER should build an amp that has a built-in SPL Meter!! Or at very least invent an inexpensive method for testing up to 160 db. Read my previous comment --v
@Brandon Lee Unfortunately, microphones that can handle those extreme SPL levels AND also remain accurate long-term are still quite expensive to design and build.
Posted from previous... Today, to measure SPL accurately in that range requires pressure meters and software to read and interpret that data. There are some options out there to do that at a reasonable cost and interface to your phone as the display and control interface, but not for $50.
I know it has been a few months since you posted this video. I have a question regarding tubing and the bass knob. Should the bass knob be connected and turned all the way down or connected all the way up or completely disconnected during the key tuning process?
The bass knob on all Kicker amplifiers only turns down the bass. It's not a "bass boost" or "gain control" or "extra output dial" or anything like that. Remote knob all the way up equals whatever the gain on the amplifier is set to. It only attenuates. So to answer your question, either leave it disconnected or plugged in and turned all the way up.
@Rafael Well, the obvious differences are the power ratings, and the AudioControl does not have any DSP processing built in, so they are completely different products. Go to the websites for each product and compare the features and specs.
@@bbfoto7248 Which one has DSP? They both Sum the inputs and restore bass. They are at the same price point. yet the Audio Control produces 25w more at 4 ohms. I'm interested in the signal they generate and the difference in sound. If you have experience with both amps, please share.
There we this is what I want to add to my system I'm hoping to come to Florida in May and if everything is open I'm going to arrange an appointment to have you guys install it for me if not I'll have to settle for someone local but that's my hope go visit my brother and see you guys
I just went with a Orion XTR 750.4 which has blown me away.... Tiffinay in and out rca jacks, underrated as hell(3x40 amp fuses) and it TINY For a class AB. I don't know how orion does it. Look at Scar rp 150.4 and how long it is. Orion's new owners are doing almost everything right.
🤔 i just got my kicker key yesterday and I haven’t hooked up a sub but everything else is hooked up and I went on a 30 minute drive today and it’s hot to the touch, I wouldn’t want to hold my had to it more than a couple of seconds.
Yea man I took mine out after about week and replaced it with a pioneer 4 channel class D. I had it running my coaxial midranges. I'll never buy another class AB amp again. My kenwood sub amp would be blasting max power to my subs and maybe only get a little warm while the kicker cx was a fukn inferno. Haha.
@@hippo-potamus not all class ab get retarded hot, at least not properly designed and mounted ones. There is nothing like the warm sound they produce. Cant beat class d $ to watt however.
No, its not. The Key utilizes Equalization to fix the low end roll off from Factory Systems. In other words get you flat response and bring back the bass that is in your music but the factory system intentionally rolls out to protect their speakers. An Epicenter creates bass by Subharmonic Sythesis. It looks at the original (dry) music and creates a tone (wet) that is blended back in to the original music. Two different technologies applied with two different goals.
I got a whole system installed by a shop where I live, with the smaller kicker key and an lc7i and jl amp. I bought the lc7i because I wanted to use factory radio on my 19 sierra. They installed it and it wasn't putting out much bass at all. I look under the seat at the lc7i and the accubass is turned all the way down. Is this normal? the only reason I bought the lc7i was for the accubass
I'm a little disappointed in this amp. I like that it fixed the lack of low bass, but I thought it did measurement eq like the 180.4, but it doesn't. Bass eq for in car response is extremely important too.
@@FiveStarCarStereoInc Yeah, I understand. It fixes one problem, but ignores 2 others. I'm sure most people think in car frequency response eq correction for subwoofers is not needed, but it's needed badly. Subwoofers also need time alignment, at least relative the mids and tweeters.
@@89grand you could take the signal from the high level AFTER the 200.4, y it off and send one leg to the door speakers and the other leg to the 500.1 input as a high level input. Then it’s more “fixed” by the time it gets to the bass amp. Still doesn’t help much for time alignment regarding the bass freqs though as the 200.4 will have that signal tuned for higher frequencies
MONEY MAKING IDEA!! I can't seem to find an inexpensive method for testing a ~150db car audio system. So far the devices require hundreds of dollars. Someone ought to invent a tiny microphone that plugs into a smartphone via 3.5 mm jack that reads up to 150 dbs and uses a particular db/spl app which tops out at 130db for the free trial version and jumps up to a higher db by upgrading to the Pro version of the app.. the microphone would need a price point of around $50. They'd sell like hotcakes IF it's accurate!
@Brandon Lee Unfortunately, microphones that can handle those extreme SPL levels AND also remain accurate long-term are still quite expensive to design and build. It comes down to the limitations of the materials used and the physics involved. Perhaps in the future better materials such as Graphene diaphragms will provide accurate and less expensive products.
Today, to measure SPL accurately in that range requires pressure meters and software to read and interpret that data. There are some options out there to do that at a reasonable cost and interface to your phone as the display and control interface, but not for $50.
They already said why in a previous show. Because she's away at college doesn't want attention drawn to an aftermarket radio in the dash and they said the replacement kit for that car is ugly.
NOT IMPRESSED WITH KICKER MICRO AMPS! The first gen ones were not making rated power which is crazy for kicker(they always exceed like rockford). Not enough headroom on these. That being said I am not against a TRUE 500w micro amp but I dont' like having to drop it down to 1ohm to make rated power. Most of us have subs already that are d4 ohm. If you are starting from a clean slate I guess no problem..buy a d2 subwoofer if it is available.
The realities of "Micro" amp and "Big" power are always going to be fighting each other. And with today's tech, to get that much voltage swing (watts) in really small chassis requires 1 ohm operation. Technology moves forward and things get better but just bear that in mind. I know personally the only Micro Amps from Kicker that have been controversial on rated power vs amp dyno tested power measurements were/are the PXA200.1 and PXA2002. These amplifiers make rated power; if you measured them in a lab setting; at the circuit board; with 14.4 volts of DC power. But when measured at the speaker harness wiring with associated losses from the molex connector and wiring itself, they missed the mark slightly. Kicker PXA200.1 Amy Dyno th-cam.com/video/AtQkuUGy9Bo/w-d-xo.html They probably should have been rated at 150 x 1 and 75 x 2, but we can't change that now. These are also the only two amps in the lineup that are very unique in their build in that they don't utilize a conventional switching power supply design that makes power at no-cost since the design goals on these amps was to work reliably in situations where you don't have big batteries or big charging systems. Small bikes, scooters, lawnmowers, etc utilize a typical stator charging system and supply 15 amps at best. This is really where those amps were targeted. Now, the PXA300.4 and PXA500.1, which are also part of the powersports lineup, those amps do are designed with a different power supply and they make stated power, and then some, both in the lab, in the vehicle and dyno testing. I have been associated with the Kicker brand a pretty long time and I can testify that when it comes to rated power, the PXA200.1 and PXA200.2 are the only amps I know of that missed the mark in testing outside the lab. As an example the other way, look at what the current CX 400.1 and CX 800.1 do on a test. Hope you find this informational. CXA 400.1 th-cam.com/video/_hzd6WeruBg/w-d-xo.html CXA 800.1 th-cam.com/video/Y6xtBtB9u-E/w-d-xo.html
@@kipplitz yes recognize you from kicker videos. Very good info. I did not know that about the key amps that they were designed for vehicles without alternators. despite my criticism of these amps ironically I have actually been looking at older zX amplifiers from 15 years ago on eBay as they just ooze quality end really remind me of the "2nd golden years" of car audio in the early to mid 2000s. One thing I hope to see from kicker someday soon is a five channel that can put out a true 800w on the sub channel and 100x4 @4ohm. I also appreciate that kicker never sells CCA wiring kits as your demo of voltage drop has been very helpful. One idea I have is if you ever have a chance to make suggestions to the engineers or sales people I it would be really awesome to see 12-14 gauge speaker wire included in your 4 gauge wiring kits. Knuconceptz set this precedent and I would recommend your wiring kits if kicker followed suit. I think the small price increase would be worth it
@@Techn9ne01 Oh Gawd !!! Did you shake your head at the Apple phones & IPad's ? What about the Samsung Phones, tablets, & Tv's. The Walmart argument is so weak. I guess Sony, JVC, Pioneer, and Kenwood HU's all suck now to ? I've bought steaks from Wal-Mart and Fresh Market and they both tasted the same 😂.
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 yeah, on Wal-Mart.com you can get the majority of car audio products online that are stocked sold and fulfilled by Wal-Mart except obviously brands that are direct from manufacturer only or dealer only. Wal-Mart definitely has buying power that only Amazon can barely challenge, and there's direct from manufacturer sales on Amazon(Soundqubed, Skar and a few others). Between those 2 sites the only two categories left are dealer only or direct from manufacturers that do custom built orders(PSI, Fi). JL is a quality product, but WAYYY overpriced! I'd never ever buy JL new... Yea, I agree with you on the Wal-Mart argument being weak, really weak. Only mindless children believe that b.s. lol 😆 it's like you have this too-cool-for-school mindset, and it's almost always 2 crowds: companies and associates pushing that shyt for increased profit margins and the mindless ppl that drive those sales by buying into that b.s.. For anybody that pushes JL and Sundown so hard I'd love to engage in a REAL debate based on real data, facts and truth, not biases, assumptions and ignorance. JL and sundown are definitely known for trying to brand products as premium with widely available common parts. I mean, that's like ppl that try to push focal and hertz as the only quality options out there. And what about that Legacy home audio b.s.? Until someone can show me how Legacy justifies selling basically a stereo for the price of a house(~$100,000) Legacy is the biggest crooks in the world...
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Small form factor, low current draw, feature packed, great sound, and fantastic value. I can't say enough good things about these amps!!!
Took y’all’s advice on the key 200 with my 4Runner and I love it. Just picked up a Tundra and was hoping I could do an L7T 12” with the key 500. Lo and behold, here’s the video. Thank you soooo much.
Skyway installed a handfull of these. A couple with the 4 channel Key amp. Kicker has a winner here.
Kicker Key is changing my mind for my daily driver ... I have to check out the 4-channel Kicker Key with DSP now.
Kicker should make a 100 watt x4 key amp and a 6 channel kicker key amp with 6 dedicated outputs 2 for tweeters, 2 for the midwoofers, and 2 for the rear coaxs. Then a kicker key 5 and 7 channel amps that does the speakers and subwoofers in one stop shop.
There could be more interesting Key products coming, you just never know. ;-) Stay Tuned...
@@kipplitz are the crossovers on the 500.1 LR24db as well?
@@tfunk1829 Yes, they are 24dB Linkwitz Riley...
@@kipplitz Thank you, I got the 200.4 and was looking using this to hopefully avoid phase issues.
That was too cool. This will have immense reprocusions for the 5 o'clock special
I finished installing the 500 today to power a Kicker TRTP 12. I also have the Key 180.4. I previously had a 300 watt JL mini amp so I didn't really upgrade in power but I did notice that with the 500.1, the bass is actually omnidirectional where as before I could always tell the bass was coming from the rear hatch. I also added the bass knob which has come in handy. Even though the boost is only 6db's, it's still a noticeable difference at lower volumes. I have an aftermarket HU so I didn't really think the Key features would come into play but it may have done something to make it sound more omnidirectional but I haven't really listened to enough music to know for certain or if it was just because of that particular song I tested. But the easy to set gain and bass knob made it worth the swap for me.
This is awesome! Car audio technology is advancing so quickly!
Saw the CE Outlook article. Very cool!
wow you guys do some really professional work! makes me want to clean up my self install lol
Are you grabbing the front high level signal for the 200.4 and the rear high level signal for the 500.1? Assuming the key doesn’t have a pass-through feature
I'm soooo glad kicker is coming back into the audio world. What I mean is in my opinion when kicker went square subs everything became, well cheap. I was a huge kicker fan in the 90s. Loved the first solo's too. But when they went square everything at least to me seemed to be more oriented for the beginer audio to the lower lever guys. Budget friendly yes, but there wasnt the old still water goodness. The warhorse while a true feet of audio engineering was the only thing I have seen from them in years. That is untell the key amps. These in my mind puts kicker right back into the mix with the killer koreans. At least for me this is a product that will bring me back to kicker. I still have so many old kicker products. I'm glad to add some new to the mix. You may disagree with me on this, but I'm by no means alone on the feelings.
Can't wait to get mine for my G8. Hopefully it'll push my T3 T2000 I have. I know it's underpowered but not looking to win spl comps lol.
@A. Melbs I don't even remember posting this haha. But anyway I mounted it on the cup holder middle section in the rear seats. I used little spacers under the feet to help with air flow and have it so the middle section can be folded up and not cause issues with wires. Hope this helps.
You should do a Dodge durango install
Outstanding video.
I'm a baseline junkie, and I like it funky, bass, bass, dirtee stinking bass!!!
I don't need no speed
I don't need no heroin
I don't want no coke
You can keep your ketamine
I’m really considering the 200.4 and 500.1 in my Tacoma.
I just bought a used 2019 Rav4 non jbl system. I was thing maybe if running the 4 channel and sub kicker key amp under the glove box high level. Have you guys ever worked on one of these vehicles? Just to get some insight. Thanks!
Most all cars really similar and obviously sick what you want but myself this would not be my pick! I like the auto adjust on the gain but I would go more serious! #1 after market head unit!!! #2 high amp alternator!! #3 get some 14 volt batteries!Then for my money ($256) I would run the hifonics BRX3016.1D which puts out up to 2200 watt RMS !! On 2- 15'S with all that said there are many amps out there that will out perform this tiny system and I will also add that the equiptment he's pushing is over priced and low powered! Has a nice tuning feature but any stereo shop worth their own salt or anyone with ears should be able to properly set up equiptment or tune a system! So it's sort of a redundant feature! I miss setting up systems myself but I would recomend shop around& look at other equiptment! I know maybe it's size is your goal but know that other manufactures needs space saving amp's too!
Hi there I've been viewing your channel 👍 I have a question and I'm pretty sure you have an answer I like old school music like WAR Commodores Chicago Tom petty like bands had a lot of acustic and brass I like hear background music along with, which amp would you recommend for this to happen?
Great Information!! Thanks for video!!!
Curious... Why don't you ever use nutserts in the ABS when mounting the amps? Also... What do you do with excess RCA cables when you run from the back to the front? Just tuck it away under the dash?
@Michael Paredes
Nutserts would protrude too far on the underside/backside of most of the thin 1/8"-1/4" ABS plastic sheet that they use. And the rivit type nutserts will not "hold" in soft plastics...they will break free and spin with very little torque applied.
The other type of inner & outer threaded inserts that "screw into" wood or plastics with a hex or allen key driver require at least 3/8"-1/2" thick material, which they rarely use.
They answered the RCA question in one of their livestream videos a few episodes back...
They test the length & routing of various RCA interconnect cables in the car before actually installing them, and then choose the shortest RCA interconnect that will comfortably reach between the two components.
If it is still too long, they try to find another naturally good path or route that uses up the extra length of cable without having to bunch up the excess at either end.
@@bbfoto7248 Thanks for answering my questions!
So are you getting the high level input after the key 4channel amp or before for the sub amp
I’ve been breaking my head pausing rewind slowing trying to figure out the same thing!
I think at the same spot since the 500.1 has its own DSP function.
its so wierd to me that the 4 channel does not have any pass thru? like are you getting signal from high level for both amps by splitting it? this is one thing noone has covered. blows my mind that these are this advanced but miss like the one feature that would make installing them together acutely easy? or am i missing somehing hopefully i am
Hello guys did you guys cut the RCA’s and installed hi-level... if you gays did where the amp speakers wire got hook up or connect
Since you guys have quite a bit of experience with the KEY amps now and talked to the guy that created them....How do you think the DSP would work for an open air UTV? I was debating about grabbing one for that purpose.
I got the kicker key 500.1 working. I was dealing with a bad remote wire. Follow up question can I use the high input from out of the Kicker Key 200.4 to the input of the Kicker Key 500.1? Will it sound ok?
I have an lc7i, can I still use this with these particular amps?
I loved the results of the kicker key 200.4, so I decided to go with the kicker key 500.1 when adding a subwoofer. I can’t seem to figure out why I’m not getting any sound out of the 500.1. I have a solids green power light but no sound. Is this normal until the programming is done?
Did you purposely leave the LPF at 160hz and the HPF at at 10hz? As I understand it, you do this when using a factory headunit that has non-defeatable built-in crossover points. This way your not doing double crossover points or else you could run into phase issues (comb filtering?). However, how do you know what the factory sets those points at and if they'll be sufficient to use a with a larger or more powerful sub/amp combo?
Would you recommend this amp for the Kicker downfirering 10" Subwoofer 400 watt or amp more beefy like a 500 watt amps.
Power wise it would be a decent match but what ohm rating is your 10? That's the question you would want an amp that pushes the power you want at the ohm rating of your speaker! Most amps put out may power at 2 or 1 ohm so if you 10 is a 4 ohm then no it wouldn't be good!
Eric McGinnis gotcha it’s a 2 ohm sub, this amp puts out 300 at 2 ohm so it’s a bit under powered I guess.
@@chrisdixon9504 being 2 ohm this opens the doors to just about any amp! Any decent 500 RMS amp at 2 ohm should do and remember distortion kills not power so 500 clean watts but then again 2 ohm also brings up the distortion of the amp! I personally think you should consider swapping the 10 for 2 12 duel 4'S wired series parallel to 1 ohm and get ya a good 1000 watt! But you know monday morning quarterbacking with my should'a, could'a ,would'as
I have a dumb question... I know there's a kicker key 4 channel amp that you're pairing with the key 500 mano amp.... I Looked through the key five hundred mano amp and the key 4 channel 200 amp online manuals and I didn't see a passthrough to send a base signal from the 4 channel to the mano.... Does that mean you're taping into a front or rear speaker wire to send a signal to the key 500..
You guys might need to use a binaural microphone, so watchers can experience what you guys are saying. I like your channel, more power to u guys.
This should really silence the kicker haters 🤫
What are the dimensions of that enclosure? I have a coupe with a small trunk so I need to get creative but I also want some good bass.
Will amp work without setup. Not getting sound from mine
what tool do you recommend to hook up an amp to the battery and what parts should i use
Question on the subsonic filter; for a sealed 8" box, roughly what should that be set at? I've heard the filter is mainly for ported boxes (meaning you can turn it all the way to 10 for a sealed box), but figured I'd ask in case the interwebs have led me to the wrong conclusion
Drivers in sealed enclosures don’t need subsonic filters. They’re only needed with ported enclosures because below the port tuning frequency the driver will unload. It’s really easy to damage a driver when played lower than the driver’s Fs. When set correctly, a subsonic filter will stop that happening. I’m a sealed enclosure the air in the box will prevent the driver from unloading. The air acts as an additional suspension for the cone.
What did you set the crossover at Dean ?
Do you leave the volume on the head unit at 3/4 when running the algorithm?
I’m wondering if you can give me some input. I have a 2021 Nissan titan with the fender Soundsystem which has no bass there’s a subwoofer under the passenger seat which I would like to remove sub from the box and substitute it for a kicker shell mount 8 inch sub i’m curious to know if I use the four wires going to the sub as it’s a sub input will it have the power to turn the kicker 47key5001 on
Can this amp handle a 12” VL7R22 in the 2OHm wiring?
can you do a video about sub box building? i could use that in my tacoma access cab and possibly put amp ontop of box.
They don't build sub boxes.
While you are adjusting the sub gain with the volume at 70%. How do you keep the other speakers in the system from playing very loudly? I noticed that while you were adjusting that subs amp the other speakers weren't playing.
just unplug the inputs on the highs amp?
how is the sub amp getting its single?
larry
Are these amplifiers can be installed in Hyundai ioniq hybrid 2020?
Want it.
I have the kicker key 180 running jl audi c2 components active in the front of my audi rs4 saloon it sounds excellent, I use a kenwood 5180 dabs. I have a sub amp setup in the boot and removed the standard woofer in the shelf to let the bass into the cabin, Is there a reason this sub amp doesn’t do time alignment for the sub with a mic, would this not be useful or doesn’t it matter on a sub? Love to hear your thoughts. Great video as usual.
David, I will try to not dive too deep here but get you an answer.
You can express how far away a sound or point of sound is in distance measurements (mm, cm, m, in, ft, yd) or in time measurements (344 meters per second, 1132 ft per second for sound in air at sea level). This is important because the two can talk about the same thing but in different expressions. It can be 1 second away or 1132 feet away, both say the same thing. We use time delay to make a speaker or origin point of sound appear to be further away from us. More time = Further distance.
When you look at time alignment, you can't speed things up and make them closer to you; you can only delay them. Delay in time = Further away from you. What this means is that the subwoofer in 99.9% of the applications is the furthest speaker away from you, you can't get it any closer to you in space, you could push it further away from you but that is not what you need in most instances. In most instances you need to push all the other drivers,speaker origin points further away from you to be the same distance as the subwoofer. Make sense?
This is why their is no time Delay on the Key500.1, it won't help you. In a "perfect" setup you delay all other speaker points to be the same distance away from you as the subwoofer then you steer the center image towards the center of the car by delaying the left channel appropriately vs the right. EQ steering is also beneficial but that is an even deeper dive.
I hope this gives you some insight.
Kip Litsey amazing thanks so much, fully understand, I’m thinking to delay the fronts more (the kicker amp I have has a mic to do time alignment) I could increase the distance manually in the head unit and do all 4 front speakers the same distance as the kicker amp then works it’s magic after the source unit. Or maybe I recline the drivers seat back as far as it’ll go with the mic on it and re time align it. I’ll have a play around but thanks again for the knowledge, much appreciated 👍👍
@@dwdrum11 Yes, if you want to time align the input to the key amplifier to align with your sub, measure how far it is from your ear in the (SP) seating position to the (PD) passenger door speaker and (DD) driver door speaker.
Then measure from your ear in the (SP) seating position to your (SW) subwoofer location.
Now...
(SP to SW) - (SP to DD) = Left Delay
(SP to SW) - (SP to PD) = Right Delay
These delays are what you would put in your head unit so that the entire front speaker system is delayed to be time aligned to your subwoofer.
Now, the EQ and time alignment in the Key 4 channel will be all about tonality and center channel steering, just like it is doing now.
As always, tweak away.
Oh, and don't add any delay to your radio's RCA outputs that feed your sub amp. That will defeat the purpose of all this.
L7t or comp rt 12 inch loaded enclosure ?
Dean, do you think the L7T will be your new go to truck sub, or are you sticking with comp rts?
The rT will be just because it fits more solutions. The L7t is definitely better
Was the box sealed? Do you recommend down firing, rear firing or firing up in an suv?
Jeremy Schweigart sub up port back towards the hatch if possible
depends on how much cargo area you're willing to sacrifice.
KICKER should build an amp that has a built-in SPL Meter!! Or at very least invent an inexpensive method for testing up to 160 db. Read my previous comment --v
@Brandon Lee
Unfortunately, microphones that can handle those extreme SPL levels AND also remain accurate long-term are still quite expensive to design and build.
Posted from previous...
Today, to measure SPL accurately in that range requires pressure meters and software to read and interpret that data. There are some options out there to do that at a reasonable cost and interface to your phone as the display and control interface, but not for $50.
where are you guys located??
Whats an Aloggerithm
I know it has been a few months since you posted this video. I have a question regarding tubing and the bass knob. Should the bass knob be connected and turned all the way down or connected all the way up or completely disconnected during the key tuning process?
The bass knob on all Kicker amplifiers only turns down the bass. It's not a "bass boost" or "gain control" or "extra output dial" or anything like that. Remote knob all the way up equals whatever the gain on the amplifier is set to. It only attenuates. So to answer your question, either leave it disconnected or plugged in and turned all the way up.
Can you compare this amp versus the audio control acm300.1?
@Rafael
Well, the obvious differences are the power ratings, and the AudioControl does not have any DSP processing built in, so they are completely different products. Go to the websites for each product and compare the features and specs.
@@bbfoto7248 Which one has DSP? They both Sum the inputs and restore bass. They are at the same price point. yet the Audio Control produces 25w more at 4 ohms. I'm interested in the signal they generate and the difference in sound. If you have experience with both amps, please share.
Where does the sub amp get it’s signal from?
The radio
What channel? Does it affect the other amp?
The front in this case. No they are Y off behind the radio before the amps
Now u got 2 keys Fernando! LOL
There we this is what I want to add to my system I'm hoping to come to Florida in May and if everything is open I'm going to arrange an appointment to have you guys install it for me if not I'll have to settle for someone local but that's my hope go visit my brother and see you guys
I lost all faith in kicker after purchasing one of their cx 4 channel AB amps. The thing would get scorching hot after just a couple of songs.
I just went with a Orion XTR 750.4 which has blown me away.... Tiffinay in and out rca jacks, underrated as hell(3x40 amp fuses) and it TINY For a class AB. I don't know how orion does it. Look at Scar rp 150.4 and how long it is. Orion's new owners are doing almost everything right.
🤔 i just got my kicker key yesterday and I haven’t hooked up a sub but everything else is hooked up and I went on a 30 minute drive today and it’s hot to the touch, I wouldn’t want to hold my had to it more than a couple of seconds.
Yea man I took mine out after about week and replaced it with a pioneer 4 channel class D. I had it running my coaxial midranges. I'll never buy another class AB amp again. My kenwood sub amp would be blasting max power to my subs and maybe only get a little warm while the kicker cx was a fukn inferno. Haha.
@@hippo-potamus not all class ab get retarded hot, at least not properly designed and mounted ones. There is nothing like the warm sound they produce. Cant beat class d $ to watt however.
If not using a bass nob , do you need to set the Subwoofer level on factory head unit all the way up when tuning?
Epicenter amp?
No, its not. The Key utilizes Equalization to fix the low end roll off from Factory Systems. In other words get you flat response and bring back the bass that is in your music but the factory system intentionally rolls out to protect their speakers.
An Epicenter creates bass by Subharmonic Sythesis. It looks at the original (dry) music and creates a tone (wet) that is blended back in to the original music.
Two different technologies applied with two different goals.
@@kipplitz So to simplify, is like accubass but more integrated with the head unit. I am very old school this is all new to me.
Molex input plug, not RCA input plug
I got a whole system installed by a shop where I live, with the smaller kicker key and an lc7i and jl amp. I bought the lc7i because I wanted to use factory radio on my 19 sierra. They installed it and it wasn't putting out much bass at all. I look under the seat at the lc7i and the accubass is turned all the way down. Is this normal? the only reason I bought the lc7i was for the accubass
Need to dyno this amp.
Kicker did that, does 653watts
I'm a little disappointed in this amp. I like that it fixed the lack of low bass, but I thought it did measurement eq like the 180.4, but it doesn't. Bass eq for in car response is extremely important too.
It measures and the flattens the signal coming from the factory radio. It does an electrical measurement not an audible measurement.
@@FiveStarCarStereoInc Yeah, I understand. It fixes one problem, but ignores 2 others. I'm sure most people think in car frequency response eq correction for subwoofers is not needed, but it's needed badly. Subwoofers also need time alignment, at least relative the mids and tweeters.
@@FiveStarCarStereoInc So, does the KEY200.4 do the cabin EQ down to what bass frequency?
@@89grand you could take the signal from the high level AFTER the 200.4, y it off and send one leg to the door speakers and the other leg to the 500.1 input as a high level input. Then it’s more “fixed” by the time it gets to the bass amp. Still doesn’t help much for time alignment regarding the bass freqs though as the 200.4 will have that signal tuned for higher frequencies
MONEY MAKING IDEA!! I can't seem to find an inexpensive method for testing a ~150db car audio system. So far the devices require hundreds of dollars. Someone ought to invent a tiny microphone that plugs into a smartphone via 3.5 mm jack that reads up to 150 dbs and uses a particular db/spl app which tops out at 130db for the free trial version and jumps up to a higher db by upgrading to the Pro version of the app.. the microphone would need a price point of around $50. They'd sell like hotcakes IF it's accurate!
@Brandon Lee
Unfortunately, microphones that can handle those extreme SPL levels AND also remain accurate long-term are still quite expensive to design and build. It comes down to the limitations of the materials used and the physics involved. Perhaps in the future better materials such as Graphene diaphragms will provide accurate and less expensive products.
Today, to measure SPL accurately in that range requires pressure meters and software to read and interpret that data. There are some options out there to do that at a reasonable cost and interface to your phone as the display and control interface, but not for $50.
dam looks like the table saw bit you
Why don't yall swapped the indash for something better the stock one look outdated...
They already said why in a previous show. Because she's away at college doesn't want attention drawn to an aftermarket radio in the dash and they said the replacement kit for that car is ugly.
fernando video en españollllllll...
NOT IMPRESSED WITH KICKER MICRO AMPS! The first gen ones were not making rated power which is crazy for kicker(they always exceed like rockford). Not enough headroom on these. That being said I am not against a TRUE 500w micro amp but I dont' like having to drop it down to 1ohm to make rated power. Most of us have subs already that are d4 ohm. If you are starting from a clean slate I guess no problem..buy a d2 subwoofer if it is available.
The realities of "Micro" amp and "Big" power are always going to be fighting each other. And with today's tech, to get that much voltage swing (watts) in really small chassis requires 1 ohm operation.
Technology moves forward and things get better but just bear that in mind.
I know personally the only Micro Amps from Kicker that have been controversial on rated power vs amp dyno tested power measurements were/are the PXA200.1 and PXA2002. These amplifiers make rated power; if you measured them in a lab setting; at the circuit board; with 14.4 volts of DC power. But when measured at the speaker harness wiring with associated losses from the molex connector and wiring itself, they missed the mark slightly.
Kicker PXA200.1 Amy Dyno th-cam.com/video/AtQkuUGy9Bo/w-d-xo.html
They probably should have been rated at 150 x 1 and 75 x 2, but we can't change that now. These are also the only two amps in the lineup that are very unique in their build in that they don't utilize a conventional switching power supply design that makes power at no-cost since the design goals on these amps was to work reliably in situations where you don't have big batteries or big charging systems.
Small bikes, scooters, lawnmowers, etc utilize a typical stator charging system and supply 15 amps at best. This is really where those amps were targeted.
Now, the PXA300.4 and PXA500.1, which are also part of the powersports lineup, those amps do are designed with a different power supply and they make stated power, and then some, both in the lab, in the vehicle and dyno testing.
I have been associated with the Kicker brand a pretty long time and I can testify that when it comes to rated power, the PXA200.1 and PXA200.2 are the only amps I know of that missed the mark in testing outside the lab.
As an example the other way, look at what the current CX 400.1 and CX 800.1 do on a test. Hope you find this informational.
CXA 400.1 th-cam.com/video/_hzd6WeruBg/w-d-xo.html
CXA 800.1 th-cam.com/video/Y6xtBtB9u-E/w-d-xo.html
@@kipplitz yes recognize you from kicker videos. Very good info. I did not know that about the key amps that they were designed for vehicles without alternators. despite my criticism of these amps ironically I have actually been looking at older zX amplifiers from 15 years ago on eBay as they just ooze quality end really remind me of the "2nd golden years" of car audio in the early to mid 2000s. One thing I hope to see from kicker someday soon is a five channel that can put out a true 800w on the sub channel and 100x4 @4ohm. I also appreciate that kicker never sells CCA wiring kits as your demo of voltage drop has been very helpful. One idea I have is if you ever have a chance to make suggestions to the engineers or sales people I it would be really awesome to see 12-14 gauge speaker wire included in your 4 gauge wiring kits. Knuconceptz set this precedent and I would recommend your wiring kits if kicker followed suit. I think the small price increase would be worth it
Al Gore Rythm....
Kicker used to be good....The quality isn’t there anymore.
Natural Creature Well after seeing the products at local Walmart Store I just shook my head down and just gave up ! I’m into JL Audio subs/amps!
@@Techn9ne01 Oh Gawd !!! Did you shake your head at the Apple phones & IPad's ? What about the Samsung Phones, tablets, & Tv's. The Walmart argument is so weak. I guess Sony, JVC, Pioneer, and Kenwood HU's all suck now to ? I've bought steaks from Wal-Mart and Fresh Market and they both tasted the same 😂.
Robert Van Hoy If you say so....👍🏼
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 yeah, on Wal-Mart.com you can get the majority of car audio products online that are stocked sold and fulfilled by Wal-Mart except obviously brands that are direct from manufacturer only or dealer only. Wal-Mart definitely has buying power that only Amazon can barely challenge, and there's direct from manufacturer sales on Amazon(Soundqubed, Skar and a few others). Between those 2 sites the only two categories left are dealer only or direct from manufacturers that do custom built orders(PSI, Fi). JL is a quality product, but WAYYY overpriced! I'd never ever buy JL new... Yea, I agree with you on the Wal-Mart argument being weak, really weak. Only mindless children believe that b.s. lol 😆 it's like you have this too-cool-for-school mindset, and it's almost always 2 crowds: companies and associates pushing that shyt for increased profit margins and the mindless ppl that drive those sales by buying into that b.s.. For anybody that pushes JL and Sundown so hard I'd love to engage in a REAL debate based on real data, facts and truth, not biases, assumptions and ignorance. JL and sundown are definitely known for trying to brand products as premium with widely available common parts. I mean, that's like ppl that try to push focal and hertz as the only quality options out there. And what about that Legacy home audio b.s.? Until someone can show me how Legacy justifies selling basically a stereo for the price of a house(~$100,000) Legacy is the biggest crooks in the world...
Well, I guess that depends on how you're analyzing it. Kicker just simply doesn't do big SPL anymore.