I have the Kicker Key 180.4 installed in my 2017 Honda Civic EX behind the factory radio receiver. It does make the factory radio sound better. I had all the factory speakers upgraded to some Kicker CS Series components and added a Kicker CompC subwoofer and Kicker CXA400.1 amplifier to complete the audio system in my car for even better sound.
I would like to use this amp in my 2019 Nissan Frontier with the stock stereo can you recommend the plug and play Interface wire harness. Thanks I love the channel.
You don't need passthroughs... its intended to be ran off of highlevels... You'd just grab run the same high level signal to the Key 500.1 or whatever other amp. Heck even this Kicker CX1800.1 I just installed for someone had high level compatibility. I was like really... Anyways if kicker added an extra DAC and used the DSP to control a "passthrough" they'd be turning this thing into a baby DSR1 for the same price as a DSR1. They want you to buy the 500.1 which can rebuild the audio signal and turn it into something useful. Adding an output to the Key 200.4 would either set you up for failure if it didn't do that for you OR it would set kicker up for failure if it did to it for you plus it would increase the retail cost by at least $10-20 for adding more DACs and possibly a more powerful processor.
informative video, you guys have any experience/suggestions for tilting the mic forward off vertical axis to "tweak" the auto tuning results? Kickers install video eluded to this but cant seem to find much about it on YT
to connect a KEY200.4 Smart 4-Ch amplifier. Amplifier (auto-EQ/processor) in a 2020 Ford ranger with the original 8-inch stereo, what do I need? What harness works? Also connecting a bass amplifier? thank you
Great update. You say that you have to adjust the earnings after the automated setup? You do this manually on the Kicher Key, on the right and left knobs? But I seem to see heard that this is configured with another pink sound ????
Great videos guys. very informative. Question on the sub, where are the inputs coming from for that, are they just spliced off the rear speakers?. does the Kicker Key 'time delay' impact the sub amp?
Purchased the KK 200.4 for my new 2020 Tacoma. I have replaced all six OEM "junk" speakers and waiting on the tacotoones harness! ('m nervous about cutting any OEM wires.) Watching both Kicker Key videos really have me excited! Your channel is excellent and well made. I'm a old fart that's a novice when it comes to car audio. I appreciate the time, effort and talent it takes to make the videos. I do have two questions that relate to installing the KK 200.4. If I may be so bold to ask you guys? (Here's the first question.) I'm also installing an aftermarket powered sub that fits ever so nice behind the rear driver side seat storage compartment. And to do this I also have a pre-made harness that works with the OEM version of the Toyota head unit. It gives me the two RCAs to use for the sub amp inputs. Ok so do I install it before the input going to the KK 200.4 from the HU (as in the actual wiring scheme/harness) or after the KK 200.4's out put? And finally the sub out RCA harness has both line out gains in the adapter. Do I leave them both set to flat or zero and only adjust the Subs amp's gain? I apologize first for probably a newbie question. This old dog wants to learn new tricks.
1) Get your sub RCA signal BEFORE the key amplifier. If you installed it after the KEY amplifier, it would have time correction and EQ for your speakers stacked on top of it, as well as being 50W of power. 2) You always want the strongest signal upstream, and less gain downstream to maintain the highest signal-to-noise. So turn the gains on the RCA harness to 3/4, then slowly increase gain in the powered subwoofer until it starts to distort. The gain on the powered sub shouldn't need to be turned up much. Ideally, you'd use a multimeter and some math or an oscilloscope here. However that's usually not possible on a powered subwoofer as you don't have access to the amplifier's outputs. 3) Make sure the powered subwoofer is unplugged while running the setup for the KEY amplifier. Any speaker not connected to the KEY needs to remain quiet. So pull the harness from the powered sub or pull the fuse.
@@firebirdude2 I wanted to thank you for the excellent information. I’ll be installing next weekend and I feel better prepared to possibly get it right the first time. I wished the ability to get information like today with Google, TH-cam or DIY website’s had been around when I was a younger man. Thank you again!
@@firebirdude2 can I ask you a question Mr Firebird? Lol. I have a newer Honda Accord Hybrid EX-L with the supposedly 10 speaker, 480 watt crap of power. I had Best Buy install the kicker key 200.4 and upgraded my front and rear speakers to those nice Morel ones. I also upgraded the deck subwoofer to a nicer kicker sub. I am not satisfied at all with the sound. I don't have much bass. I don't have much dynamic range. Does not feel the Kicker Key power is being optimized. No 50 watts per channel rms at all. Will go back to a different Best Buy location next week for another guy to hopefully figure things out and hopefully tune things better. Would I need to add a line output converter like an LC71 to feel the music come alive? Would I need to replace my deck subwoofer with maybe one of those compact powered subs like the Pioneer TS-WX130DA Compact Active Subwoofer? Appreciate all the input!
Nowhere can I find any info on how wide of a frequency range the EQ works on. I have found it's 10 bands, but are those 10 bands fixed frequencies or are they variable? Does it work to EQ from 20Hz to 20Khz? Secondly, let's say I have component speakers up front, midbass in the door, and tweeters in the dash, using passive crossovers. In the rear, (maybe in the door, maybe in boxes) I have woofers...but I want the 200.4 to EQ the woofers, but only up to about 200 Hz or so...how to accomplish that? Thanks, guys!
I have an Kenwood DMX 806S and trying to put in JL Audio 6.5 C3 Ian’s JNLs in the rear replacing the 8 in sub with a better replacement with JL 10 in. using factory Alpine system with kenwood head unit. Not looking for overpowering but clarity clear sound. For my 12 Ram 1500 crew cab......HELP!!! Thanks
my car is a ford everest which has 10 speakers (1 center channel and 1 subwoofer at the back) and with ANC (mirophones on the roof) and HU is a stock sync 3. will this be a viable amp for this car?
Great video. Question, can I use an Audio Control LC2i with the Kicker Key 200.4 for ALL 8 mids/highs in a 5th gen. 4Runner and a CX600.1 for a single 10” Kicker Comp R? All running through the converter. Keep up the informative videos. TIA
Had everything installed as planned and it sounds amazing. I do plan on switching over to a 12 inch kicker comp R in two ohms so I can pull more power from the amp. Only pulling about 300W for the 10 inch right now because of the sub ohms. Definitely brought the sound stage up higher, to the dash. That was the most noticeable improvement.
Whenever I set my 500.1 up with the provided -5 DB tone. My Kicker Comp R 12' always smells like burnt voicecoil on rap songs. If I setup with the 0 db tone. Regular music like 80's or 90's music has little to no bass. So, to compensate I turn down the volume a bit when playing bass heavy music. But, It's always smelling like burnt voicecoil. I'm afraid im gonna burn up my sub. Any ideas to have an all around system using these amps that will hit hard on nearly all music?
@@mbrine11 Up to you. Flat for the setup, then you can adjust them to your liking after the tune. Keep in mind, boosting any EQ on any system increases signal to the amp, which means increased distortion out if the gain is not adjusted accordingly. (ie. Setting everything properly, then boosting bass to +10 means you're gonna have a bad time)
I’m stuck on the output end of the Kicker harness. Can I add the kicker wires right into the head unit harness that is connected to the car? Layout right now is normal. Head unit harness connected to stock harness. I will be using RCA for the input from the head unit. The output end can it be tapped into the radio harness?
You can cut the wires on the aftermarket harness. So cut the wires between the plug on the radio and the plug that plugs into the stock harness. Do NOT modify the factory harness. Once you have disconnected the speaker wires from the radio then yes certainly you can feed the amp outputs into the wires on the aftermarket harness adapter. The only thing is that IF you replace the front car speakers with components then the answer could possibly change depending on a few things.
@@MrGivmedew thanks for the reply. So the speaker wires themselves will be capped off from the head units wires. The speaker wires will be ran out of the Kicker to the other end of the adapter harness that goes to the car? That’s how I’m seeing it right now.
anyone know if using this amp with 2ohm speakers would be a problem? i have Infinity Kappa 60.11cs installed and was thinking about this amp but not sure if it would be an issue.
Would this work with the Pioneer Avh 4400nex stereo? I'm looking for an amplifier for my 2011 Tacoma, I'm looking at this kicker or the Alpine ktp-445u.
The Alpine would be the way to go since properly setting up the 4400Nex would include utilizing its internal DSP with the pioneer setup mic. Not sure if the mic is included with the 4400nex but if not they are $20 I think but I'd probably go with that. If you ran a factory head unit id say kicker all the way.
I have the 180.4 hooked up to my stock radio (nissan rogue sport w/nav) with rockford components and 2 ways in the back and I'm having a terrible time with having the background instruments overshadow the vocals. I don't know what to do. Any recommendations on how to get the music to sound like it should? I've redone the process of setup in different areas on the headrest many times and also had a bass blocker put on the tweeters in the dash because they were way too loud but it just doesn't seem to fix the problem of the instruments overshadowing on songs and also the overall notes of the songs seem like they're mudded over like its missing details of instruments and the overall feel of the song. In my old vehicle (nissan juke) I had a rockford fosgate ecopunch system and I loved the way it sounded. You could turn it up with the windows down and it would sound just as clear if you had the windows up. The one I have now loses all detail with windows down. Sorry for the long description but I've tried getting answers at many places and no one seems to know what to tell me to achieve what I had with my old system.
Maybe you can tweak the EQ on the stock radio a bit? Also, during the setup tuning process, play with angling the mic upward or straight forward. One of the Kicker trainers also told me I could put a towel over the mic too. Just some small things to change how the mic responds and calculates the EQ changes. I usually don't have to jump through any hoops to get great results, but if you're having issues it might be worth trying out. Also ensure your vehicle isn't running and the AC is turned off when you run setup.
@@firebirdude2 I actually don't have many options unfortunately with the stock radio. Just basic treble,bass,fade, etc. I tried setting up the mic in different areas on the headrest and it still gives me the same issue. I havent tried putting anything over the mic but I did try putting a thin fabric over the tweeters at one point but it just made it sound even more lifeless. It's like I'm wanting to turn the treble up to hear more clarity and details but all I really get is high frequency from the tweeters that is not pleasant to listen to. Anytime I do the set up i always make sure to have everything off, including the subwoofer. It's just every time I play a song that has a lot of instrumentals, they drown out the singer and it gets to a point where I cant even hear the person at all anymore. It reminds me of when you have the "surround sound" button on a pair of speakers and it makes the background come out more artificially. I was kibd of wondering if it was the tweeter placement that could be messing things up since they're reflecting off of the windshield cause I'm my old vehicle they were on the A pillars. The people who installed the amp told me that I shouldnt move them though cause they're where they should be for my vehicle. I don't know but it's just really a boring music experience compared to what i used to have. No excitement to the music really. If I could describe it, I would say my old system had more of a punchy/splashy sound where it felt like you were at a concert getting hit in the face with the music and now it's just lifeless. Drums, guitars, overall key changes and the tone of the song is just bland. The amp eq on this doesn't seem to really do a lot. I'm kind of screwed because I have to stick with my stock unit and its hard to find an amp/dsp hook up for that which is why I got this amp.
Depends on the factory amp. Many times, yes. But keep in mind that A) this is only 4 channels B) some factory head units communicate with the factory amp through digital means. So volume control is done within the factory amp. In short, it's different on every car and it's case by case.
A sweep is a sweep is a sweep. There's nothing special about the sweep track for the KEY amps. You can either set gain as you would on any other amp (sine wave and scope or meter or ear), or you can use the sweep track for the 500.1 if you'd like.
@@santiagoescala7737 You can download one from wherever. Just saying the KEY200.4 doesn't require a special test track for setting gain, like it does for other purposes. Using a tone to set gain isn't even discussed in the manual for the 200.4, just the 500.1.
@@firebirdude2 I found Rockford's test tones on spotify, i want to set gains with a 1kHz test tone and then the sweep, just to see if there's any difference in case the kicker EQ has a dip at 1kHz (doubt it but wanna make sure)
The 4ch Key was never designed to run subs. Sadly Kicker fumbled the ball by not giving the 200.4 a sub out to drive the 500.1. Hopefully they'll fix that in the next variation.
Would this go good for a accord 2021 sport with no factory amp. And does it help Eliminate the need for dsp or summon the front and rear channels. Looking for options.
No, I didn’t, bother using the passive x overs, however I did use some in line caps that came with my jl audio c2 tweeters just as a backup in case the amp ever failed and sent full range to the tweeters. I have the key 180 running active front in a my b7 Audi rs4 with 2 8” subs in the boot. I run from a kenwood 5180 head unit. It just sounds like a hifi, I’m a drummer and spend a lot of time listening to music, this makes the hairs stand up on my neck. I put some jl c1 in the rear doors which run off the head unit but they are set very quiet so not to ruin the soundstage up front. It goes plenty loud enough (especially considering it’s size!) it’s a bargain)
@@dwdrum11 that's very helpful. In my own car I have morel components with DLS amps and I'm very happy with the sound but my wife's car is awful and I've avoided it for too long. These look easy to install and very compact. Does your B7 have the 6 rivet front speakers from the factory or the 4 rivet? I hear the 6 rivet type in our car can easily be replaced with 8" components like the Focal ISU200. That would be helpful as the extra bass from a 8" will make up for the lack of sub...at least a little.
The official manual explicitly says not to use a passive crossover when bi amping, but the five star guys appear to fit and wire in the passive crossovers? I thought they were using them in bi amp mode?
@@UpsideDownFork hi mine had the standard bose system, so 6.5” speakers, held in with 3 large screws. I fabricated MDF spacers. I can’t see an easy way to squeeze an 8” in. However if you spend the same time I did sealing the door with dynamat then it’s impressive the midbass those actually speakers produce.
@@UpsideDownFork no they’re not using it bi amp to run active front. It’s running all 4 speakers front and rear hence having the fader on and using passive x overs
Yes... a parametric is about you and your preferences as much as it is about fixing the output of speakers. You'd set the EQ flat run the DSP then you'd adjust the EQ to your liking to make the sound the way you want. During blind tests Mirage found out a long time ago the hard way... people don't like flat perfectly responding speakers. So its really your preference. The factory EQ will work if it's any good. (Sometimes they are horrible) make sure to run the DSP with the EQ flat.
I have the Kicker key 180.4 on my 2019 nissan frontier sv. I have stock radio and stock speakers. I want to upgrade the speakers. Can you give me a recommendation on speakers?
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
I have the Kicker Key 180.4 installed in my 2017 Honda Civic EX behind the factory radio receiver. It does make the factory radio sound better. I had all the factory speakers upgraded to some Kicker CS Series components and added a Kicker CompC subwoofer and Kicker CXA400.1 amplifier to complete the audio system in my car for even better sound.
If I needed a 4 channel amp this would be a no brainer
Perfect for my promaster city van
Just ordered one for my Ranger SuperCab.
nice follow up thanks guys!
good morning do you have a video on how to install kicker key 200 to vw 2021 jetta s. best regards
How come in the first video for the 180.4 you used the pink noise to set the gains and now in this video you are using this sweep sample noise?
I would like to use this amp in my 2019 Nissan Frontier with the stock stereo can you recommend the plug and play Interface wire harness. Thanks I love the channel.
If I add this to drive the 4 channels coming out my stock head unit how do I add another amp to drive some new subs? Does this amp have pass throughs?
You don't need passthroughs... its intended to be ran off of highlevels... You'd just grab run the same high level signal to the Key 500.1 or whatever other amp. Heck even this Kicker CX1800.1 I just installed for someone had high level compatibility. I was like really...
Anyways if kicker added an extra DAC and used the DSP to control a "passthrough" they'd be turning this thing into a baby DSR1 for the same price as a DSR1.
They want you to buy the 500.1 which can rebuild the audio signal and turn it into something useful. Adding an output to the Key 200.4 would either set you up for failure if it didn't do that for you OR it would set kicker up for failure if it did to it for you plus it would increase the retail cost by at least $10-20 for adding more DACs and possibly a more powerful processor.
I was hoping it didn't sound better because only the 180 is available in the UK 😭
Well that work with a 4inch full range speaker with A Silk done tewteer
informative video, you guys have any experience/suggestions for tilting the mic forward off vertical axis to "tweak" the auto tuning results? Kickers install video eluded to this but cant seem to find much about it on YT
to connect a KEY200.4 Smart 4-Ch amplifier. Amplifier (auto-EQ/processor) in a 2020 Ford ranger with the original 8-inch stereo, what do I need? What harness works? Also connecting a bass amplifier? thank you
Great update. You say that you have to adjust the earnings after the automated setup? You do this manually on the Kicher Key, on the right and left knobs? But I seem to see heard that this is configured with another pink sound ????
Can I use the signal from the factory amp as the kicker key inputs?
Great videos guys. very informative. Question on the sub, where are the inputs coming from for that, are they just spliced off the rear speakers?. does the Kicker Key 'time delay' impact the sub amp?
Can the dsp be manually controlled like the IQ amps or is that specific to the IQ amps?
What would you suggest (using this product as baseline reference) for THREE-Way Components … so, 6ch (?). ?
Purchased the KK 200.4 for my new 2020 Tacoma. I have replaced all six OEM "junk" speakers and waiting on the tacotoones harness! ('m nervous about cutting any OEM wires.) Watching both Kicker Key videos really have me excited! Your channel is excellent and well made. I'm a old fart that's a novice when it comes to car audio. I appreciate the time, effort and talent it takes to make the videos. I do have two questions that relate to installing the KK 200.4. If I may be so bold to ask you guys? (Here's the first question.) I'm also installing an aftermarket powered sub that fits ever so nice behind the rear driver side seat storage compartment. And to do this I also have a pre-made harness that works with the OEM version of the Toyota head unit. It gives me the two RCAs to use for the sub amp inputs. Ok so do I install it before the input going to the KK 200.4 from the HU (as in the actual wiring scheme/harness) or after the KK 200.4's out put? And finally the sub out RCA harness has both line out gains in the adapter. Do I leave them both set to flat or zero and only adjust the Subs amp's gain? I apologize first for probably a newbie question. This old dog wants to learn new tricks.
1) Get your sub RCA signal BEFORE the key amplifier. If you installed it after the KEY amplifier, it would have time correction and EQ for your speakers stacked on top of it, as well as being 50W of power.
2) You always want the strongest signal upstream, and less gain downstream to maintain the highest signal-to-noise. So turn the gains on the RCA harness to 3/4, then slowly increase gain in the powered subwoofer until it starts to distort. The gain on the powered sub shouldn't need to be turned up much. Ideally, you'd use a multimeter and some math or an oscilloscope here. However that's usually not possible on a powered subwoofer as you don't have access to the amplifier's outputs.
3) Make sure the powered subwoofer is unplugged while running the setup for the KEY amplifier. Any speaker not connected to the KEY needs to remain quiet. So pull the harness from the powered sub or pull the fuse.
@@firebirdude2 I wanted to thank you for the excellent information. I’ll be installing next weekend and I feel better prepared to possibly get it right the first time. I wished the ability to get information like today with Google, TH-cam or DIY website’s had been around when I was a younger man. Thank you again!
@@pabloheaf1708 No problem! I've put.... A LOT of them in. So hit me up if you need anything.
@@firebirdude2 can I ask you a question Mr Firebird? Lol. I have a newer Honda Accord Hybrid EX-L with the supposedly 10 speaker, 480 watt crap of power. I had Best Buy install the kicker key 200.4 and upgraded my front and rear speakers to those nice Morel ones. I also upgraded the deck subwoofer to a nicer kicker sub. I am not satisfied at all with the sound. I don't have much bass. I don't have much dynamic range. Does not feel the Kicker Key power is being optimized. No 50 watts per channel rms at all. Will go back to a different Best Buy location next week for another guy to hopefully figure things out and hopefully tune things better. Would I need to add a line output converter like an LC71 to feel the music come alive? Would I need to replace my deck subwoofer with maybe one of those compact powered subs like the Pioneer TS-WX130DA Compact Active Subwoofer? Appreciate all the input!
Would I need to replace my rear deck subwoofer to a compact powered one like the Pioneer ts-xw130da? Thank you for all the inputs!
Nowhere can I find any info on how wide of a frequency range the EQ works on. I have found it's 10 bands, but are those 10 bands fixed frequencies or are they variable? Does it work to EQ from 20Hz to 20Khz? Secondly, let's say I have component speakers up front, midbass in the door, and tweeters in the dash, using passive crossovers. In the rear, (maybe in the door, maybe in boxes) I have woofers...but I want the 200.4 to EQ the woofers, but only up to about 200 Hz or so...how to accomplish that? Thanks, guys!
I have an Kenwood DMX 806S and trying to put in JL Audio 6.5 C3 Ian’s JNLs in the rear replacing the 8 in sub with a better replacement with JL 10 in. using factory Alpine system with kenwood head unit. Not looking for overpowering but clarity clear sound. For my 12 Ram 1500 crew cab......HELP!!! Thanks
I have the 180 so don’t run out to buy the 200 got it.
When you set the gains on this, should you change the fader?
my car is a ford everest which has 10 speakers (1 center channel and 1 subwoofer at the back) and with ANC (mirophones on the roof) and HU is a stock sync 3. will this be a viable amp for this car?
So would this increase max volume or is it more for clarity for your stock speakers?
Does Kicker sell a Line Output Converter called something like KeyLOC ?
Yes
Typing "kicker keyloc" into google would have answered that very quickly.
How the build?
th-cam.com/video/ZwWggIfQHqM/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Question, can I use an Audio Control LC2i with the Kicker Key 200.4 for ALL 8 mids/highs in a 5th gen. 4Runner and a CX600.1 for a single 10” Kicker Comp R? All running through the converter. Keep up the informative videos. TIA
Did you ever figure this out?
Having sub amp installed in February. Kicker key in the spring. I will update then.
I wouldn’t… you lose your fade ability… it’ll all be 1 control, I’d use the high-level in or get a KEYLOC instead
Had everything installed as planned and it sounds amazing. I do plan on switching over to a 12 inch kicker comp R in two ohms so I can pull more power from the amp. Only pulling about 300W for the 10 inch right now because of the sub ohms. Definitely brought the sound stage up higher, to the dash. That was the most noticeable improvement.
@@steelydan8421 ooohhhhh so you used the LC2i on your fronts, then RCA out to the 200.4? I get it now
Whenever I set my 500.1 up with the provided -5 DB tone. My Kicker Comp R 12' always smells like burnt voicecoil on rap songs. If I setup with the 0 db tone. Regular music like 80's or 90's music has little to no bass. So, to compensate I turn down the volume a bit when playing bass heavy music. But, It's always smelling like burnt voicecoil. I'm afraid im gonna burn up my sub. Any ideas to have an all around system using these amps that will hit hard on nearly all music?
So with this dsp amp, would you leave your radio audio settings like bass and treble alone?
After setting them flat for the setup of course
@@mbrine11 Up to you. Flat for the setup, then you can adjust them to your liking after the tune. Keep in mind, boosting any EQ on any system increases signal to the amp, which means increased distortion out if the gain is not adjusted accordingly. (ie. Setting everything properly, then boosting bass to +10 means you're gonna have a bad time)
I’m stuck on the output end of the Kicker harness. Can I add the kicker wires right into the head unit harness that is connected to the car? Layout right now is normal. Head unit harness connected to stock harness. I will be using RCA for the input from the head unit. The output end can it be tapped into the radio harness?
You can cut the wires on the aftermarket harness. So cut the wires between the plug on the radio and the plug that plugs into the stock harness.
Do NOT modify the factory harness. Once you have disconnected the speaker wires from the radio then yes certainly you can feed the amp outputs into the wires on the aftermarket harness adapter.
The only thing is that IF you replace the front car speakers with components then the answer could possibly change depending on a few things.
@@MrGivmedew thanks for the reply. So the speaker wires themselves will be capped off from the head units wires. The speaker wires will be ran out of the Kicker to the other end of the adapter harness that goes to the car? That’s how I’m seeing it right now.
subwoofer on or off? at 8:03 ?
What's got a better sound the kicker key the iq 500.4 or audio control
anyone know if using this amp with 2ohm speakers would be a problem? i have Infinity Kappa 60.11cs installed and was thinking about this amp but not sure if it would be an issue.
When I went to kicker.com to get vehicle specific info it didn't give an option for a Mustang - only Ford trucks. Disappointed.
Would this work with the Pioneer Avh 4400nex stereo? I'm looking for an amplifier for my 2011 Tacoma, I'm looking at this kicker or the Alpine ktp-445u.
The Alpine would be the way to go since properly setting up the 4400Nex would include utilizing its internal DSP with the pioneer setup mic. Not sure if the mic is included with the 4400nex but if not they are $20 I think but I'd probably go with that.
If you ran a factory head unit id say kicker all the way.
I have the 180.4 hooked up to my stock radio (nissan rogue sport w/nav) with rockford components and 2 ways in the back and I'm having a terrible time with having the background instruments overshadow the vocals. I don't know what to do. Any recommendations on how to get the music to sound like it should? I've redone the process of setup in different areas on the headrest many times and also had a bass blocker put on the tweeters in the dash because they were way too loud but it just doesn't seem to fix the problem of the instruments overshadowing on songs and also the overall notes of the songs seem like they're mudded over like its missing details of instruments and the overall feel of the song. In my old vehicle (nissan juke) I had a rockford fosgate ecopunch system and I loved the way it sounded. You could turn it up with the windows down and it would sound just as clear if you had the windows up. The one I have now loses all detail with windows down. Sorry for the long description but I've tried getting answers at many places and no one seems to know what to tell me to achieve what I had with my old system.
Maybe you can tweak the EQ on the stock radio a bit? Also, during the setup tuning process, play with angling the mic upward or straight forward. One of the Kicker trainers also told me I could put a towel over the mic too. Just some small things to change how the mic responds and calculates the EQ changes. I usually don't have to jump through any hoops to get great results, but if you're having issues it might be worth trying out. Also ensure your vehicle isn't running and the AC is turned off when you run setup.
@@firebirdude2 I actually don't have many options unfortunately with the stock radio. Just basic treble,bass,fade, etc. I tried setting up the mic in different areas on the headrest and it still gives me the same issue. I havent tried putting anything over the mic but I did try putting a thin fabric over the tweeters at one point but it just made it sound even more lifeless. It's like I'm wanting to turn the treble up to hear more clarity and details but all I really get is high frequency from the tweeters that is not pleasant to listen to. Anytime I do the set up i always make sure to have everything off, including the subwoofer. It's just every time I play a song that has a lot of instrumentals, they drown out the singer and it gets to a point where I cant even hear the person at all anymore. It reminds me of when you have the "surround sound" button on a pair of speakers and it makes the background come out more artificially. I was kibd of wondering if it was the tweeter placement that could be messing things up since they're reflecting off of the windshield cause I'm my old vehicle they were on the A pillars. The people who installed the amp told me that I shouldnt move them though cause they're where they should be for my vehicle. I don't know but it's just really a boring music experience compared to what i used to have. No excitement to the music really. If I could describe it, I would say my old system had more of a punchy/splashy sound where it felt like you were at a concert getting hit in the face with the music and now it's just lifeless. Drums, guitars, overall key changes and the tone of the song is just bland. The amp eq on this doesn't seem to really do a lot. I'm kind of screwed because I have to stick with my stock unit and its hard to find an amp/dsp hook up for that which is why I got this amp.
Can you replace your factory amp with this one?
Depends on the factory amp. Many times, yes. But keep in mind that A) this is only 4 channels B) some factory head units communicate with the factory amp through digital means. So volume control is done within the factory amp. In short, it's different on every car and it's case by case.
where can i get that sweep test tone? kicker's site only has a sweep for the sub amp.
A sweep is a sweep is a sweep. There's nothing special about the sweep track for the KEY amps. You can either set gain as you would on any other amp (sine wave and scope or meter or ear), or you can use the sweep track for the 500.1 if you'd like.
@@firebirdude2 the sweep on kickers site is 20Hz~200Hz which isn't very useful for setting/testing mids and high
@@santiagoescala7737 You can download one from wherever. Just saying the KEY200.4 doesn't require a special test track for setting gain, like it does for other purposes. Using a tone to set gain isn't even discussed in the manual for the 200.4, just the 500.1.
@@firebirdude2 I found Rockford's test tones on spotify, i want to set gains with a 1kHz test tone and then the sweep, just to see if there's any difference in case the kicker EQ has a dip at 1kHz (doubt it but wanna make sure)
heh, here the 180 is not even available yet... how do you use this with a sub properly? Can you link it to the Key500 sub amp somehow?
The 4ch Key was never designed to run subs. Sadly Kicker fumbled the ball by not giving the 200.4 a sub out to drive the 500.1. Hopefully they'll fix that in the next variation.
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 An output to the 500.1 how? Just a signal pass-through? Pretty dang minor...
@@firebirdude2 It's be nice to see the out put DSP controlled auto eq of the sub etc.
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 The 500.1 does that. It has DSP built in as well. There's no need to have it literally connect to the 200.4.
@@firebirdude2 it processes the input signal NOT the output. I was referring to it auto eq'ing and adding the sub into the time delay equation.
Would this go good for a accord 2021 sport with no factory amp. And does it help Eliminate the need for dsp or summon the front and rear channels. Looking for options.
Is there any need to use passive crossovers if using this in bi amp mode?
No, I didn’t, bother using the passive x overs, however I did use some in line caps that came with my jl audio c2 tweeters just as a backup in case the amp ever failed and sent full range to the tweeters. I have the key 180 running active front in a my b7 Audi rs4 with 2 8” subs in the boot. I run from a kenwood 5180 head unit. It just sounds like a hifi, I’m a drummer and spend a lot of time listening to music, this makes the hairs stand up on my neck. I put some jl c1 in the rear doors which run off the head unit but they are set very quiet so not to ruin the soundstage up front. It goes plenty loud enough (especially considering it’s size!) it’s a bargain)
@@dwdrum11 that's very helpful. In my own car I have morel components with DLS amps and I'm very happy with the sound but my wife's car is awful and I've avoided it for too long. These look easy to install and very compact.
Does your B7 have the 6 rivet front speakers from the factory or the 4 rivet?
I hear the 6 rivet type in our car can easily be replaced with 8" components like the Focal ISU200. That would be helpful as the extra bass from a 8" will make up for the lack of sub...at least a little.
The official manual explicitly says not to use a passive crossover when bi amping, but the five star guys appear to fit and wire in the passive crossovers? I thought they were using them in bi amp mode?
@@UpsideDownFork hi mine had the standard bose system, so 6.5” speakers, held in with 3 large screws. I fabricated MDF spacers. I can’t see an easy way to squeeze an 8” in. However if you spend the same time I did sealing the door with dynamat then it’s impressive the midbass those actually speakers produce.
@@UpsideDownFork no they’re not using it bi amp to run active front. It’s running all 4 speakers front and rear hence having the fader on and using passive x overs
Can I still put a parametric equalizer? Is it still useful?
Yes... a parametric is about you and your preferences as much as it is about fixing the output of speakers. You'd set the EQ flat run the DSP then you'd adjust the EQ to your liking to make the sound the way you want. During blind tests Mirage found out a long time ago the hard way... people don't like flat perfectly responding speakers.
So its really your preference. The factory EQ will work if it's any good. (Sometimes they are horrible) make sure to run the DSP with the EQ flat.
I have the Kicker key 180.4 on my 2019 nissan frontier sv. I have stock radio and stock speakers. I want to upgrade the speakers. Can you give me a recommendation on speakers?
Just get speakers that are at least 90 db sensitivity if you plan to use only deck power
Sir... Please do review on Sony xm gs6dsp amplifier...