Dane Reynolds on lineup hierarchy and the plateau of modern surfboard design
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2020
- The Stab Interview with Dane Reynolds.
Dane has always been one of surfing's most revered and original thinkers. After a late afternoon session in South Africa for Stab in the Dark last year, we found a curb to sit on and fired some timely questions at him.
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I still remember a wave that was being posted everywhere captioned "Mick fanning gets amazing barrel". Clicked and saw Mick do the most horrific burn of a guy perfectly placed in the pocket and get a sick tube. I thought it was such bullshit. That probably would have been that other guys best wave of his life and Mick who gets flown to all the best spots in the world absolutely burns him and gets praised for it.
Lol. I think I saw that on IG.
Mick is a toss!
💯
I couldn't agree more. Just because you're a pro surfer doesn't mean you're entitled to drop in on others.
I dropped in on Dane in Jbay one time, I was surfing way down at Point and he’d come all the way from Supers and was charging it super hard, then I saw him get behind the section and I thought there was no way he’d make it. lo and behold he flew out of the foam ball and I quickly bailed off and went to hide behind my buddy when he paddled passed me.
I wish I’d known how chilled of a guy he is, would have said sorry and told him he was shredding/killin it, just got scared and embarrassed lol!
Keep it up Dane you’re a legend
yo bro, you from jbay aswell
David Vos no mate, Cape Town ;)
@@jonahp8271 shame man
@@davidvos4195 So much respect bro :)
Dane is the people's champ. His views on the lineup dynamic are very similar to mine. I can contend with the heavy lineups if I really need to, but I'd much rather pick off weird ones that swing wide or take a few inside scraps instead. Waiting 30 minutes for a good one is not worth the opportunity cost of 5 or 6 less-than-perfect waves imo.
Same. Actually surfing something is better than waiting to maybe surf a good wave
Why thank you
Ive been surfing for 7 months now, Im trying to get a quick take off on my shortboard but im pretty bad at it. Let me just say it is the most unwelcoming sport ive ever participated in as a beginner. Not everyones dad took them out when they were 7 and taught them to surf. Some guys are just too full of themselves and take it way too seriously to see that. Can’t stand surfers hierarchical attitude. Really nice to see a guy whose obviously good and is humble because the sport of surfing definitely needs more of that.
Doesn't get any better dude. Localism not really issue where I live but atmosphere in the water generally really bad, everyone looking miserable half time even in decent conditions. Coming from riding bikes both downhill and motorcycles for years where ppl are stoked to just be doing what they love and generally really supportive regardless of ur ability I find it totally bizarre tbh
a.m. remorse Oh yeah man without a doubt ill keep going I couldn’t give less of a shit im there to have fun and I do regardless. Theres no law that separates good surfers from bad in the water. Ill surf where I want too its not like im rocking up a trestles dropping in on everyone. Im respectful and I apologize when im in the wrong. Just irritating when a guy has a few more years experience and thinks he takes priority over every wave because im not a phenomenal surfer and I might not stick the drop. Im an immigrant from England and my parents are South African and im surfing with the young hot shot Californian shortboard nazis, lol.
Oliver G bro. It’s all about the break and town u surf at, you can find the most friendly, stoked dudes if u head to the right place
You can change it over time - be friendly ask for tips be respectful and before you know it you will be accepted
@@MrLeeson660 I feel the same way every time I go back to my local skate park, supportive and laid back. I think Dane made a good point though talking about the rarity of good to great waves. Brings out the worst in people. Sometimes I have more fun at my local break when the waves are worse because everyone is so much more relaxed, not taking things too seriously.
seems like such a good bloke, no ego, no attitude like he's better than anyone else. seems like a bit of an introvert thats ended up in the spotlight. we need more people like that in the sport
I found myself nodding in agreement this entire interview. More Dane please!
Same!
Dane is my lineup spirit animal. When he said he'll go to the inside to avoid the nauseating vibes of the take off spot and then wrestles with the idea that he should anyways... Always the decision when the waves get good.
That Birch Asym is easily the best board ridden in this video, fast, smooth, responsive and looks like an effortless extension of Danes body.
Yeah the rails werent catching anywhere, that was nutz! Maybe skatey is a good way to describe it too.
Dane's a super nice guy. Meet him a couple of time in the line up in Ventura & north LA. Easy to talk to, just a good person that rips!
What break did you meet him at?!
@@zacharaneta4378 Meet him at Countyline in North LA & at the Strand in Ventura. There was just 3 of us out at the North point at County & he was super cool about sharing the sets when they came. We would let him take the really good ones just to watch him RIP!!!!
My three favorite surfers of all time Kelly, Rob and Dane. Awesome guys.
Bro the real kooks are not the beginners. The real kooks are those greed infested folks, and everyone should drop in on them period.
some of the san clemente and santa cruz groms are the worst, i wonder where they got it from? (the older dudes)
I agree with you 1000%
@@spicoledude Kids are just kids, they see the world in a juvenile way so in a situation like a line up they can be dickheads. theyll grow out of it. just part of life
A kook isn't a beginner, a kook is someone clueless and disrespectful.
kooks are the twats who paddle right in front of you when you’re further outback and in the right position
Dane, thanks so much for sharing your mad style with the world. An absolute bad ass ripper that still has the compassion to be respectful in the lineup. Mad respect, I hope your message gets through to those who need it cause damn there are a lot of them.
Italo Ferreira and Mick Fanning aren’t watching this video. And even if they did, they’re egos are so big, they’ll still drop in on people and be dickheads.
This guy still has the best insight in surfing.
I had the pleasure of surfing with Dane a few years back at my local spot. The guy was beyond laid back and unassuming ....until he took off on a wave. Then, all hell broke loose. Did the best turn I ever saw at this particular wave and I have seen thousands of them. The funny (or sad) thing was that some of the locals got the brilliant notion that they were going to somehow out surf Dane or show him how it's done. At that point, I instructed them to settle down, go sit in the channel, and take notes.
Fantastic interview. Very humble guy.
Got even more respect for him now. Great surfer and seems like a nice guy
Mick was so popular at one point even the sharks wanted a piece of him!
This was a great interview. Good questions and a really good person answer. Could say so much more but I think Dane has shown it all .
great guy. love watching him surf and talk.
If Dane had confidence he would have been 5 times world champion by now. Top 5 surfer of all time in raw talent.
Or rather if he had a massive ego, which he luckily doesn't
There's more to life than winning contests
1Nate987 word!
I think the world would be a better place if the word "like" was used ever again.Please learn to speak without it.Also the next would be "but and just" cos when you hear those two you know some bullshit is coming your way.
maybe he is confident.
Dane is the only surfer I want to hear from.
Master! Couldn't agree more about everything, specially about the line up.
He was ripping way harder on the Burch in these clips than the shortboards. Or so it seems
That Burch board engages the rail and does some really good looking turns, but it probably can't go vertical or release the tail when the wave offers no space.
He looked like dogshit in SITD. Absolutely killing it on the Burch. Shortboards are marketing bullshit. 90 per cent of people can't ride them.
Fish for life
daniel vb go watch electric acid test again. That board does it all. And just 2 fins!
Noted as well. that end sequence was SIIIIICK
I live in Oxnard right next to Ventura and Dane has never come to my home break and been an asshole. He is also super respectful unlike the other guys.
Great to hear his perspective, my favorite guest on the show by far. But he is Dane Reynolds, best free surfer that has ever lived, and he has trouble in the lineups at times. Imagine if he was not Dane, and what his attitude may be like then with his wave counts getting slashed.
Dane. Good stuff. Love the relaxed vibe.
Dane you’re my favourite surfer! Also agree with your points about lineups
Nice attitude and nice job sharing anecdotes. Theres a lot of complexities to deal with in the line-up, not to mention the surfing itself.
Great surfer with amazing humility.
Loved the insights in this interview thanks Stab!
Saw Dane at a beachbreak the other day drifting off the peak, getting closeouts on the head, laughing, hunting a rare right...now Imagine Mick's presence in the lineup on this last cyclone swell.... almost war like focus. Drastically different lineup presences that are directly reflective of there contributions to surfing.
Always a pleasure to hear what Dane's got to say about anything and everything, especially some inside nuggets about Mick in his earlier years! Haha! Love it.
Love the interview and chill vibes
Honestly , Dane is such a goddanmn legend
Dane is so comfortable on the wave that his pure artistry can just shine through. Most people are struggling so hard to maximize the wave that their true creativity takes a back seat to the froth.
I was on the beach in the cove at Rincon, into a discussion with Terry Simms when Dane picked off a scrap that swung wide on the sand bar, peeling just slightly slower than a close-out. Dane was doing well just to go fast enough to keep up, which is all anyone could have hoped to do on that little screamer. We went silent when he launched, went unbelievably high in the air, slowly rotated on the way down, assuming that was the exclamation point at the end. It wasn't. He slid seamlessly right back into the slot, keeping all the speed from before the air, and raced another 70 yards down the freeway. That was the best air I have ever seen.
I've worked the Long Shot for productions in places like Bali and Hawaii and I've seen pro surfers who thought because they were better than everyone that they could take every set wave. I have footage of Jordy dropping in on someone in Hawaii. He is then dragged in by his leash by some huge guy on a longboard and gets the shit kicked out of him. You can even hear some bystanders screaming "he's a pro surfer" and other locals who paddled in to watch saying "so what". A certain colorful oxen now has the footage and I doubt they'll ever release it.
Hahaha ... hilarious. I'm a haole who grew up on a remote sugar plantation on the Big Island in the late 60s - early 70s. You'd never catch me dropping in on a local in a million years.
so you dont have the footage then bra
Release it!
Dane is the man. I think he just described surf line ups perfectly. I wish I could surf like him.
Dane you are a breath of fresh air young man
I got to surf with Dane in double over head beach break in Ventura, it was so good to be able to see him rip in person.
Thanks Dane, I’m surprised how much we think alike. And to all comments below and above saying “we all deserve good waves bla bla bla” pay attention to what he is saying, he isn’t claiming to have the right to surf more than anyone else, in fact he shares a point of view of being very respectful and understanding of non pro surfers. Its all about attitude and Respect knowing your capabilities. When someone let you go on a wave and you fall on the drop, or even worst, you miss it because you didn’t have enough arms to paddle, remove yourself from the line up, reevaluate your capabilities of being there at that time. Good surfers have put in the time so you should too. Just knowing that is a sign of respect. Wake up early during winter, drive miles to surf small waves until you get better, take surf trips that you worked your ass to save money for, suffer during long periods without waves. Perhaps only then you’ll start to understand how it feels to let a good one go by for someone in the early stages.
Love Dane content 👍🏽
He was shredding that Burch shape, that board looked like it had a lot of speed and drive
Great interview!!
Surfing is a spiritual sport. Got to go at it alone. Leo Cabrillo and Zuma were my baptismal stomping grounds....I will always show up with confidence in Ventura. Dane, Tim, Bobby... Props
Love you Dane
Dane lives in my little beach town. The last town the developers haven't mowed.
Mellow dude. When he comes to surf, I get out so I can watch him. Way above the average locals. Mind blowing stunts. Fun to watch for shooooa.
P.j. Carpinteria
Can we please have Danes vídeo with Portuguese subtitles? I just think it can change life’s in Brazil. Good to hear some honesty talk amongst the top surfers and great to see these guys growing up. anyone can change if we free our judgemental minds.
YT app now has captions with auto translate 😉
Just good old respect for others....Nice to see a guru have such a humble vibe...world has enough violence and bad vibes with the land lovers.
i remember meating dane in jbay, he said sup, and i was blown by how good he was surfing supers, it was only me him and another guy, cant wait to see you come surf my home brake again
David Vos jassis David, your spelling is kak
@@valdo9482 ik
David Vos ik?
@@valdo9482 ik= i know*
Shared a surf session with this guy few years ago in Emma Wood, CA. Both paddling for the same wave, asking me whether right or left.. 5 min later, same situation with a 12 year old grom, I let you imagine what’s next.
12:05 If he surfed like that during every heat at every contest he would be unbeatable on tour.
Nah mate - no air reverse, followed by a claim. Claims add at least 0.8 to every wave. He hasn't got that down yet. Needs practice.
Best attitude in surfing
I grew up in Hawaii's North Shore in the 80s. Local shit was rampant at a lot of spots. Until the locals saw that I was a lifeguard at Haleiwa Beach Park, but there was also the fact that I'm a Haole. But when I showed up with Shaun Thompson or Buzzy Kerbox I was treated a little different. But at that time surfing with Aussies was hard to because most were a pain in the ass in the lineup!🏄🏽♂️🤙🌊
Amen, good attitude hermano
I relate to Dane emotionally, but not on my surfing ability! 😆
Impossible not to like dane reynolds... speaks what's on his mind.
Understand local line ups. Very important. People that Fallon waves need to get back in line
Dane is full of wisdom all over these years
waves ARE such a precious commodity especially where im from
Dane has some good advice, if your a novice why not just find your own little space to the side to develop your skills without any drama instead of trying to compete with the advanced surfers in the line up, this way everyone wins and gets the most from the surfing experience...:)
best surfing dane did was right at the end on the ryan burch ? board , looked so good .
Dane. you deserve more waves than most, because you won't blow it like half the guys out. and I love watching you surf! I watch the goofy foot video of you! to try an copy you. never get close haha
Great Dane.
I’ve always wondered why there is a hierarchy especially on point breaks , just form a line and take turns to get a good wave everybody wins ,
This guy is awsome! Keep posting this kind of videos yeeww 🤙🏽
Thank you for always listening
And more importantly laughing! And loving!
Dane is my spirit animal.
Dane keeping it real.
awesome talk
Well said Dane. Those last few shots of him on the Burch board make everything else look slow. Just insane!
nice interview
Made him laugh a hot day at Lowers. “Milk was not a good choice today.”
Love that bloke
so good
excellent
He’s just had the worst session 😂 great timing on the interview
fanning the fire is such a sick movie
It blew my mind when he said he surfs the inside of J-bay when it gets busy. I feel like he's respected enough where he could dominate the main lineup.
in the 80s and 90s my dad had a beach house for 11 years five houses back from the water at Blackies in Newport Beach which was a considered a point break although it looked like a beach break. I surfed out in front all the time and there was this "local" dude that ripped and was always on fire, really aggressive. One day it was really big and sucking up off the jetty, probably double overhead and he dropped in on some dude without a leash. The dude wiped out and lost his board. While he was paddling in he told the local guy off and the local without hesitation paddled up to him and attacked him. They proceeded to brawl in chest high water with massive white water coming in until the dude's brother came over and they beat the fuck out of the local. I had to jump off the jetty and run over there and scream at them to stop. It looked like they were going to kill the guy. Surfing is like driving a car. It can be really dangerous and people's adrenaline is up. So if there's altercations people will rage. Just take it easy out there.
Dane is the man
Best. Civilian. Ever.
Such a rad dude
“Like, like, like, like, like, like, like.” Great stuff, though. Most fierce free surfer on earth.
if I had 5cents for everytime someone liked a turn he did, I could retire.
What he said,👍
This guy is one of the most radical rippers and hes so humble what a true peoples legend we love you dane 🫡💯
yo bro, i love you stab and Dane Reynolds
Gotta love this dude for staying level headed. Hell I know witb his skills Id be off paddling past anyone and everyone with my ego in full boost love myself entitled me super mode. Basically pro vibes. Handing out a smile here and there to the odd minion but mostly just showing them how great and at one I am in my place of birth, the ocean.
Some aussies in Bali need to listen to Dane
Dane is the kind of guy I’d introduce to my sister and maybe stepdaughter! 😂. A chivalrous shredder, “who would’ve thunk”!! Ni-ce!🤙😎
Dream Trip: Griffin, Jordy, Dane, Yago, Mick and Parko.
I see dane. I hit like
Van Wilhelm just don’t hit it as many times as he says it🤣
Would chug a beer anytime with this guy. How about Dane wildcard for J Bay on a Birch Asym. Unbeatable
Dude we need more like in the conversation.
I enjoyed that!..🤔👊
It's not like he surfs better than Mick or Jordy but his surfing is so pleasant to watch
Paddled past him in the harbor before and he gave me "that guy has no idea what he is doing" look
I like this guy man, he worries about seaguls 🤣🤣
When I lived at Rocky Point HI, Poto (Vitea David) dropped in on me and then tried to start beef, super rude and aggro. I told him he was in my backyard and pointed to my house. he chilled out. Another time my friend Doug came up from Town where he was going to school, from Laguna Niguel, around 1995. Good surfer but he didn't know the lineup and dropped in on Larry Rios, like he was still in southern California. Larry paddled up to him and said "brah, you like take trip to da hospital!?" lmao!
I agree,there maybe innovative fins and fin design but boards have plateaued
I'm not sure about that. Visually small differences in board shapes and volume distribution make a MASSIVE difference to performance. Boards from 5/6 years ago ride pretty differently in my opinion. Except DHDs - they have ALWAYS been incredible ;)
@@nomoreluke yeah...plus... .....no can see the future . We may be in the infancy of design. Longboard guys never saw what was coming either!!
Maybe finless, wakeless...super channeled, wafers.?..fat cactus foam hydro foil lifters?.....detachable paddle in sections....currens skim/glue/foam creations....Invent it!!! Look at how the dolphins surf...etc etc
ive bodyboarded there for years , not one problem lol