Wow. I'm a professional sandblaster with a $75 K rig. Before I bought this rig, I tried everything. Your one of the first videos I've seen that is telling the truth and the whole truth. Everyone else wants to slant it in one direction or another. Nicely done.
@Based Canadian The lowest cost good performing compressor and blaster costs about $1,300-1.400. A thousand of it is just the gas engine compressor that puts out 35 cfm a minute. I call this the baby blaster and it's great for little stuff. It's the smallest amount of money you can spend and then be glad you spent it. Spend less than that and you will regret spending it. If you can't afford that, then harbor freight junk is your only other option and you will hate it. If you can afford it, google After Hours Welding and Sandblasting in St Augusine Fl, find my email on my website and contact me. Wanna see my big blaster? jacksonville-florida-sandblasting.com/ Watch the first two videos.
Based Canadian+ Running a sand blaster takes A LOT OF air. I have 2 compressors, one is an 80 gal tank with a 7hp Baldor electric motor and 15hp 2 stage compressor motor, I paid $1,200 for it. My other compressor is a really cool vintage Devilbiss 5 HP Air Compressor model # AC2029. I FOUND this one at an abandoned autobody shop near the Ohio, Kentucky border. And my blasting cabinet is a Mac Blast which is 70X40X30 inches, I paid $600 for it. I was planning on building my own blasting cabinet, either by modifying an actual steel office cabinet of some sort, or fabing a custom sized steel box up and welding it. If I were on a budget, I would scour and check out scrap metal yards, pass out ypur phone number to the guys at the scrap yard who have trailers full of scrap metal and look like they do it for a living. Let then know youre after an old large air compressor tank, 60, 80 or 120 gallons is good. Call junk yards and get creative. In 10 years Ive found 3 80 gal. tanks and the Devilbiss compressor, so its doable. Once you get the tank, find a 2 stage air compressor motor, theyre often a lot cheaper not mounted to a tank, again, talk to the scrappers in your area. Lastly, the most expensive piece of equipment youre PROBABLY gonna end up paying for, even a used, is a good 5-10hp electric motor. That electric motor connects to the 2 stage compressor pump and spins that pump which gathers air into the tank. They connect with 1,2 or 3 V-belts, similar to a powersteering pump belt on a car. If youre patient I'm confident you can get everything rolling for under $7-800, depending how you make the cabinet, if that's the type of blaster you want. Cabinet style are clean, open room blasting makes a mess that 99.9999% of guys like us DO NOT want to deal with! Another great tip is, DO NOT use any air lines smaller than 1/2inch to 3/4 inch. Even the fitting and quick disconnects, make sure the I.D. of those fittings never goes below 1/2 in. You will MURDER your air flow/cfm. I recently changed all my lines and fittings and it cuts through everything 3-4 times faster than before. Search Google Images for homebuilt sandblasting setups, theres tons on there and lots of good ideas! Good luck. Take care!
Based Canadiam+ Why didnt i think to mention this before, almost every tool rental store who rents fence post drilling augers, hi-los, etc, rent air compressors you can rent by the hour, day, week or month. 4 hrs is abt $50-100 for a large compressor and $400+ for the month.
@@weldersandblaster If I have a 30 gal 6 cfm small compressor and I want to do some cosmetic sanding on my car or to sand under the car to patch-up rust spots, will that work with a cheaper amazon gun and regular play sand? Time is not an issues, I can wait on my compressor (I got a good water filter, it's set-up for low cfm painting ;) ).
@@cubul32 1 play sand is the least aggressive sand there is as its rounded and not sharp edged. 2 six cfm is too little air flow. That will give you 30 seconds of blast time against 3 minutes of recover time. Since the sand is dull you will get virtually nothing done. Your better off using a rust converter or paint stripper chemical. Amazon sells some good rust converters.
The guy that does my vapor blasting on my engine cases also has a massive diesel powered air compressor he uses on commercial outdoor jobs. I’m not experienced in any kind of blasting but he tells me it is all about the air and the quality of the air. It is a very versatile rig. He can do very gentle light blasting for technical jobs or blow holes in something. I think he said the diesel compressor cost about $30,000. Obviously it’s his business and he uses it everyday. He is a talented guy. Lucky to have him close by.
Nice video, thanks for the no-nonsense presentation. I liked how your video moved along and wasn't artificially drawn out (like so many videos) to get more advertising dollars.
I have a pressure washer sand-blaster and get great results with regular beach sand. Some tips: Put your sand bucket on a stool so it doesn't have to be sucked up against gravity. Make sure there are no kinks or coils in the sand feed tube Take it slow. It's not like pressure washing. Bump the tip on the work now and then if the sand stops flowing. Keep the sand feed tube on top, so that water doesn't drip into it. Wet sand won't flow Do the job on a concrete surface. Leave the wet sand to dry. Sweep it up, sieve it and reuse it.
This. I ordered one off Amazon and it worked great for my truck frame. I did wire wheel prior to get all the heavy stuff off. But the dustless blasting did great on its own and got where the wire wheel couldn't and let the perfect finish for the epoxy primer. If you can't do it on concrete, a large tarp does great at capturing the media for reuse.
GREAT VIDEO, back in 1966 I had a 1955 Cadillac Coupe deVille, I bought from an older lady, one owner, I painted it Purple pearl with Blue Metalflake top. About 4 years went by I decided to put it back to stock, I sent it to a local sand blaster to strip the car, about 3 days later I picked up the car and when I got it home I realized that the whole car was TOTALLY RUINED!!!, It was WARPED beyond repair !!! Every panel was TOTALLY RUINED, They used high pressure and the roughest coarsest sand they had the same as you would use on rusty steel pipe or a brick building,!!!. SOOO my recommendation is if you sabdblast a car, BE VERY CAREFUL!!!, or you will have a WARPED pile of junk !!!. 😎😎😎. One more tip IF YOU HAVE TO STRIP A RUSTY CAR, NO MATTER IF YOU SANDBLAST OR ANY OTHER WAY THE INSIDE PANELS ARE STILL RUSTY !!!, IF THE CAR IS WORTH IT, ( HAVE IT DIPPED) BY A STRIPPING COMPANY LIKE (KLEEN STRP) this type of STRIPPING gets Everything, in the seams, pinch welds, rocker panels, A and B posts, the Sail Panels, inside all the places that nothing else can do, Plus they finish it by dipping it in a rustproofing, solution !!!. If your car is worth it, that's the way to go. Thanks William Orange county, Ca.
Yeah, you really gotta watch out for that. I put a warp spot in one of my doors that will need addressed. Keep the nozzle pointing in one place too long and you're sure to start destroying the metal.
The Pressure Washer sand blaster attachment works great for me. I had use the one from Northern Tools. My unit was a 4gpm 3800psi. I had used it to finish a Pressure Washing job. The customer had used House paint on the sidewalk around 30ft. I used pool filter sand from Home Depot at 4$ a bag. Used about 1.1/2 bags to remove the paint.
I used the pressure washer sandblaster to clean a utility trailer with just the old sand from my son's sandbox. Just ran it through a screen to filter out the junk. I also have a 4gpm 3800psi pressure washer which makes a big difference over the OPs pressure washer.
Excellent demo! You understand the difference between video and radio. Some people talk and talk with no actual demo. This was very easy to understand. The advantage of wet media is that you don't get it in your lungs as much as dry. Also, if there is a way to collect it, it will be easier to flush the dirt out of the wet bucket than if dry. How about using dry garnet? No silica dust and much more abrasive at 30/60 grit for your purposes.
Well, its is a good demonstration of the limitation of non industrial equipment. Also a good demonstration of the 3 media types. With the equipment you have available a car body is probably a bit beyond your current capability, both from a cost and safety angle and a really piss off the neighbours angle. Personally I'd get the car body done professionally that bitumous underbody coating would just disappear use the coarser media's on the underside and rusty areas and soda on the painted areas. Use the home equipment for the smaller items you can rig a tarp over. Full overalls, gloves, your respirator and the hood you have would be applicable ppe for any blasting. Dust in the lungs or blowing skin away from where it should be is very unpleasant. Thanks for posting.
I used to blast oil rig equipment, and two compressors really helped with removing epoxy paints. Stuff didn’t come off easily. If you want to blast continuously, you need a double chambered blast pot and someone to keep it filled while you blast. I used one on very rare occasions. Only used a single 6.5 cu. ft pot with a 185 cfm Gardner Denver or Ingersoll Rand towable. Regret giving up that job.
@@killerdoxen Don't know why but kinda find sandblasting almost therapeutic. Sounds like you know your stuff! Have a problem sourcing an extraction unit for a blasting cabinet if you could help?
MrCoffeypaul Can be quite satisfying at times. I enjoyed seeing the nice grey freshly cleaned equipment ready for painting or magnafluxing beforehand on the derricks. Couple sites I found for them if you’re talking about dust extraction from the cabinet. www.cycloneblasters.com/blast-cabinet-dust-collector/ www.raptorblaster.com/choose-dust-collector-blast-cabinet/ If you’re the diy type, look up cyclonic dust extraction. You could try building one yourself. The trick is to have the dirty air swirling around the inside of the collector against the walls. The dust will rub up on the wall and get slowed down to drop into the collection hopper at the bottom. Typically used for grain cleaning operations. The cleaner air would get sucked up the middle of the cyclone.
@@josephjoestar5444 If the gun is pointed at a 90 degree angle at the surface it will warp the metal. It should be aimed at less than 45 degrees. Also, if the gun is aimed in one place too long, the metal will heat up and cause warping.
Do yourself a favor and get a portable air compressor like those high output ones that run jackhammers. Go to an industrial auction and bid on one and bring it home behind your vehicle. You'll have enough air to run two sandblasters.
A lot of people try to run the blasters with a single phase air compressor that doesn't work real well. I had an air compressor with a 4 cyl Ford engine on it. It worked real good.volume = pressure
Great video, thank you dude. So many other videos are full of crap and life stories, thanks for getting to the point and clearly showing the differences.
I was a sand blaster back in the 90’s Mostly used black beauty I sandblasted in a room big enuf for 2 tracker trailer to park side by side I’ve done everything from soda cans to ships It’s all in the media and pressure you use Trust me you will screw something up along the way lol I trashed a bunch of copper guttering. I could not see it was warping till the job was done and out side the blast room Lol boss was pisssed
Matt Liebherr I’ve never tried cerakoting but I’m guessing you would need it blasted but smooth . Fist TH-cam is your friend ! Second ether glass-bead it or use walnut shells ( get it form the pet store Zila brand is cheap ) or baking soda again TH-cam is your friend watch every video you can find ! Sorry I’m not more help
I'm sitting here watching this with a huge burn down my arm where I accidentally sandblasted myself. The hose split off the gun.and oh man does it hurt. I'm gonna be more careful about safety gear and I can't help but notice you have hardly any...no gloves, short sleeves, no ear protection. For those of you reading this...please be safe!
I agree long sleeves and gloves are a solid idea. More importantly though, the safety sticker on all of our outdoor blasters recommends wearing a hood. I probably should have worn a hood in this video, but I decided against it for the sake of the video. I wanted the convenience of being able to easily speak to the camera while making this video. If you're blasting like this, you really should follow the safety labels and wear a protective hood.
Hi Ian,try adding an additional small air supply to your sand supply , in the bottom of your sand bucket ,set it to lightly aerate the sand , it will look like it is boiling ,it will also raise the level of the sand in the bucket , it will increase the sand supply and stop surging , a lot of powder products are transferred this way which helps the venturi .
An easy way to add CFM without altering your wiring is to add compressors rather than running a larger one. This also lets you run just one for light work. Large bore air hose helps too. I don't plumb my air system with fixed pipe and fittings but instead use 3/4" ID red hose and Chicago couplings for high flow lines which do not restrict flow the way lines connected by small couplers do. That also lets me rearrange my equipment easily as I reconfigure my shops when adding equipment or adding more shop space. If I want to add a drop I can do that in minutes by cutting the hose and splicing in a tee with a coupling or whatever fittings I wish. Not everything is efficient to do at home which makes this video instructive. I blast modest sized parts at home but trailers, frames and other large items get trailered to my local monument shop (they use engine-driven compressors and large pressure pots to cut names and dates in granite headstones). If I had that body to do I'd winch it onto my trailer then weld the rotisserie to the trailer deck using whatever scrap was handy. That's stronger than tiedowns, quick and easy. After blasting it would be easy to slice off the mounts in minutes then wheel the rotisserie off the trailer. I use scaffolding casters with round shanks to move all sorts of heavy items and mounting tubes are easy to fab so you can swap the casters between items.
Was hopping for the dry ice in the selection of blasting material to compare. Still a very good comparison video. Well done. Thanks for your investment.
You are totally right! Dry sand ,but big compressor which I have diesel powered.... It gets everything off rust undercoating but it is messy when it comes down to it there is no way around it we have a 50 ft by 18 ft sandblasting room. Nobody wants to pay a lot of money to have that stuff done anymore due to the way this world is going. The cheapest thing this place and from home Depot and screen it. You'll get four five uses out of it if you do it inside like we do. Then when it gets beat down we just throw it in the driveway and go buy another pallet. The faster you go the better it is but you need to learn how to angle the gun so you don't warp metal. I appreciate the video!
I hope your guys are using a fresh air supply hood. Using actual sand produces silica dust, which if inhaled, will give a man silicosis and kill him graveyard dead.
Black beauty, 3/16” tip and >12 CFM @90. You can also get quick results with wire cup brush on angle grinder to take off heavy stuff before using the blaster to prevent wasting a lot of blasting media :)
Very nice, useful video. I was kinda excited about the pressure washer attachment, but after seeing the mess and low quality job I'll stick with dry media. Looking forward to seeing your choices for equipment and media. In my (limited) experience, chemical or mechanical (power sander, wire wheel) methods of rust removal are superior to media blasting. Would like to be proven wrong. Nice video - Thanks! >Charlie
Honestly I've found that blasting media is better at removing rust than anything. A wire wheel on an angle grinder seems to be the best for removing thick bondo. You can use a blaster, but it takes too long and uses a lot of media, so a wire wheel is really best for bondo in my book.
I uses a quite large sand blaster for oil field use that was 220 volt and the air compressor was 300 gal. It still had to be used in stages, then we hooked up a compressor to it that ran on 480 and it helped. I then took an old propane tank (1000 gal) like you see on a farm and put it in the mix. At that point I could blast for 50 min to an hour, and it took 15 min for the 2 compressors to fill it back up to 200 psi.
Assuming the compressors were running during sandblasting, you basically, you needed a third compressor to be able to run continuously. You can then go back to a smaller tank or keep the larger tank for the thrill of it.
Well it got tiresome to only be able to blast for ten to fifteen minutes, and have to wait for 10 minutes in between when we would have hours of work to get done, so I preferred it to be able to run continuously.@@ralphparker
The only efficient method to prep an entire body core is professional wet tank derusting... definitely NOT for most home-based DIY-ers: Professional/ amateurs alike ...your video evaluation IS much appreciated and helps us all to individually decide what is best use for any given operative... also note that ANY grade of sand is not compatible for aluminum metal substrates: sets up dissimilar metal corrosion
I'm going back a few years but we used was an attachment that was forty bucks from KMS Tools here in Canada that attached to the pressure washer and we could not keep up with the water sand mix! And it was not doing a very good job, and on the back of a flat deck I had my 1967 Beaumont up on jack stands and we decided to try glass and we were blown away how fast! And how clean and how much further a bag of glass would go to finish the job! It really was outstanding say the least
the wet one is also going to be a drain on anyone with a well.I used one to pressure wash my deck last year and for the first time in 40 years I had water issues.
Mr Ward..:.. my dustless machine has its own water tank so aside from filling the tank at the wells own pace there would be no exceltional use of your water system.... check locally for someone using a dustless blasting brand machines
Only thing I would have done differently would be to blast the same types of paint/coatings no point doing one point on a roof then switching a over to a stone guard base and trying to compare the two, though that said the smaller hand guns are going to take forever regardless and would recommend only using maybe after a car has been blasted and welded up any repayment patches, give a blast with a smaller gun instead of bringing out the big guns lol but great video and great Infomation and presentation
Soda more for soft abrasive work like wood car plastic ect.😂👍. Brought me a camping tent for my work shop . awesome works soft abrasive work.also sand blast 👍 from new Zealand 🌏 .
The rubberized undercutting will have you waste at least twice as much media and take longer. You'll want to avoid sand or black beauty on large body panels, it can create heat and warpage. Save for frame work.
You should fill all your tanks up with air and then starting blasting just before your compressor is gunner turn it self of otherwise you'll need to wait until it catches up again that's how ive always done it and never had a problem that way
Thanks for the good info, I just purchased a pressure washer blaster kit(cheap amazon) going to give it a try. But from what you experienced I have my doubts.
Wet mess. Yep. Most people try this with their 60 or 80 gallon compressors but I think you just need something that can push 25+ cfm . Unfortunately most of above mentioned big box compressors will not. I think a gas powered truck mounted compressor is bare minimum and about 22 cfm at 100psi. Don’t quote me on that. I did a boat trailer and fed 2 compressors into 1 line for 19 cfm and it was still somewhat of a struggle but did come out really nice
I worked in sandblast so big they fit 396Ton load bearing dump truck parts To iron gate fences Truck and trailer One of the quickest ways around having to blast Rubber coated floors Is remove Or loosen the rubber...Gasoline soak and wipe Now you do not have to sit there was 200 rags and go to work ..But Wipe the rubber with a full soaked rag Have another person behind you with a industrial scrub brush And follow with rag ..wait about a hour Depending on the thickness of the rubber You should have no issues blasting with something stronger then soda I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS for indoor garages Or Vehicles not fully taken apart As sparks could set fire to the rubber coating if Gas is still present in the rubber The gas cuts into the rubber and makes it softer and easy to roll off as it breaks down the structure of the bond Always have a form of putting out a fire close by
Built a small 2"x2" lumber 8'X6' frame "Shed" inside my shop and used 2mil plastic to make a "Greenhouse" big enough to fit the tub for my jeep. sand blasting soon.... and for the air supply issue, I'll be renting a Diesel Sullair Compressor for the weekend to save my 80 Gallon compressor from working itself to death
Very informative. I appreciate the i donation I got and the effort you put into the experiment. I laughed at the joke at the end and I gave the video a like for the laugh 😂👌 I would love to see a test run like this with bench top sized pressure blasting box and different media in those.
I have use the commercial air compressors and Sand Blast pots that is the macdaddy but On thin metal it will gnaw the metal up you have to be cautious.
I'm disappointed by the performance of that wet blaster. I was really hoping it would do the job because a pressure washer is a whole lot cheaper than the compressor needed to run a sandblaster. Guess I'll be sticking with chemicals and brushes to get rid of the rust and paint on my old hotrod.
It could be just the siphon pickup , the one i bought just has two tube welded together with one having a bend on the end , anyway most blasters can work a lot better with a good pickup unlike the chinese blaster cabinets , with their venturi unit at the bottom , best to replace this with simple pipe that goes down the hopper and up the other side then drill three holes horizontally at the bottom right through ,leave the end of the pipe open . And if you wand really good sand supply add a small tube to the bottom of you sand /glass/garnet and supply some regulated air this will fluidize the sand and it will flow really well . Cheers .
Put the sand in a Chinese pressure pot, run at 30psi direct to the water lance. Keeps the sand dry and works a treat. I use it to blast paint and rust from truck chassis's.
Tarp, using fine coal slag in pressurized blaster screen used media 3, 50 lb bags would do a whole car. I have a 60 gal single stage compressor and it keeps up really well. Medium grit i find is to heavy in these home based consumer blasters.
Pro tip, get two 80 gallon compressors and link them together. Now youve got a 140 gallon with two pumps for half the cost of a 140 gallon with one pump.
Was thinking about getting one of those smaller pressure pots, but I can see with what I have planned, it’s gonna be a no go for that. Gonna have to get my hands on a small contractor unit. Looking at a few thousand for a blast pot alone.
I too am surprised the the water pressure washer gadget wasn't better. I would of lost that bet. Came here for soda blasting info, have some very delicate items to clean, (1939 Mercury dash), and some others that soda would be better. Still wish I could find a video to teach me the different pressures people use for different medias and items. Even basic like soda @ 60 to 90 PSI Glass beads @ 70 to 100 PSI etc. etc. BTW, good video anyway.
I own a mobile blasting company, River Valley Dustless Blasting out of Pocola, OK. We use various types of media depending on what the customer prefers. We blast dry or wet. Wet blasting has issues, the media will build up in corners. You also have to treat the water with a chemical to prevent rust from forming. The chemical we use allows 24 to 72 hours, depending on the temperature and humidity, before the metal has to be primed. We can blast the outside of most vehicles in about 4 hrs. Look us up on Facebook. We travel about a 60 mile radius of Fort Smith, AR.
If you Sand blast sheet metal You will get Warping If you do not know what you're doing you will ruin body panels. You have to have the right pressure add you need to blast at an angle. You also need an air supply that is dry if there is Moisture in your equipment it will clog the nozzle.
Leater, its not really. ALOX, or aluminum oxide, is the most aggressive commonly used abrasive. Its significant more expensive and so aggressive it eats your equipment as well. I've seen ALOX eat a tungsten carbide nozzle in less than 4 hours, which is why silicon boride nozzles are suggested. For something close to coal stages price point, but more aggressive, you can try copper slag.
I am thinking about buying a new compressor mainly to sand or vapor blast glasses made from beer / wine bottles. What PSI, CFM, HP compressor should be bought which will do the job effortlessly? Thank you
Great video. Only problem is you used a small pressure washer. You need minimum 4200psi. But thanks for video because Ii see it uses way to much media I learned from your video Ps. Can you demonstrate sandblasting aluminum items before the recieve powdercoating how that's done media type etc. I would like to order one from you
Thanks for the video. I'd like to see the best option for blasting patio furniture. I have an old hanamint patio set that I'd like to refinish. What's the best gun set up to get off the old coat of paint, what's the best gun set up to repaint it? Thanks
We don't deal with painting, so you're on your own there. As for the blasting, I like to put my patio chairs in one of these: www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/sand-blast-equipment-c-327_501/sand-blast-cabinets-c-327_501_502/clamshell-pressure-pot-blast-cabinet-with-upgraded-vacuum-p-2421 But if you don't have that at your disposal, you can always blast with one of these: www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/sand-blast-equipment-c-327_501/sand-blast-replacement-parts-c-327_501_507/redline-outdoor-media-blast-kit-p-2911
Or just pay somone 800 bucks to do it for you.Thats how much they charge to go to your home and do the dirty work for you.All said and done you spent less money by farming out that part of the job.
Hi.. Thanks for the video. Is the soda blasting method is suitable for furniture industry? Currently we are sanding the wood pieces after applying sealer. Is it possible to get the same finishing as sanding in blasting methods
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Wow. I'm a professional sandblaster with a $75 K rig. Before I bought this rig, I tried everything. Your one of the first videos I've seen that is telling the truth and the whole truth. Everyone else wants to slant it in one direction or another. Nicely done.
@Based Canadian The lowest cost good performing compressor and blaster costs about $1,300-1.400. A thousand of it is just the gas engine compressor that puts out 35 cfm a minute. I call this the baby blaster and it's great for little stuff. It's the smallest amount of money you can spend and then be glad you spent it. Spend less than that and you will regret spending it.
If you can't afford that, then harbor freight junk is your only other option and you will hate it.
If you can afford it, google After Hours Welding and Sandblasting in St Augusine Fl, find my email on my website and contact me. Wanna see my big blaster? jacksonville-florida-sandblasting.com/
Watch the first two videos.
Based Canadian+ Running a sand blaster takes A LOT OF air. I have 2 compressors, one is an 80 gal tank with a 7hp Baldor electric motor and 15hp 2 stage compressor motor, I paid $1,200 for it. My other compressor is a really cool vintage Devilbiss 5 HP Air Compressor model # AC2029. I FOUND this one at an abandoned autobody shop near the Ohio, Kentucky border. And my blasting cabinet is a Mac Blast which is 70X40X30 inches, I paid $600 for it. I was planning on building my own blasting cabinet, either by modifying an actual steel office cabinet of some sort, or fabing a custom sized steel box up and welding it. If I were on a budget, I would scour and check out scrap metal yards, pass out ypur phone number to the guys at the scrap yard who have trailers full of scrap metal and look like they do it for a living. Let then know youre after an old large air compressor tank, 60, 80 or 120 gallons is good. Call junk yards and get creative. In 10 years Ive found 3 80 gal. tanks and the Devilbiss compressor, so its doable. Once you get the tank, find a 2 stage air compressor motor, theyre often a lot cheaper not mounted to a tank, again, talk to the scrappers in your area. Lastly, the most expensive piece of equipment youre PROBABLY gonna end up paying for, even a used, is a good 5-10hp electric motor. That electric motor connects to the 2 stage compressor pump and spins that pump which gathers air into the tank. They connect with 1,2 or 3 V-belts, similar to a powersteering pump belt on a car. If youre patient I'm confident you can get everything rolling for under $7-800, depending how you make the cabinet, if that's the type of blaster you want. Cabinet style are clean, open room blasting makes a mess that 99.9999% of guys like us DO NOT want to deal with! Another great tip is, DO NOT use any air lines smaller than 1/2inch to 3/4 inch. Even the fitting and quick disconnects, make sure the I.D. of those fittings never goes below 1/2 in. You will MURDER your air flow/cfm. I recently changed all my lines and fittings and it cuts through everything 3-4 times faster than before. Search Google Images for homebuilt sandblasting setups, theres tons on there and lots of good ideas! Good luck. Take care!
Based Canadiam+ Why didnt i think to mention this before, almost every tool rental store who rents fence post drilling augers, hi-los, etc, rent air compressors you can rent by the hour, day, week or month. 4 hrs is abt $50-100 for a large compressor and $400+ for the month.
@@weldersandblaster If I have a 30 gal 6 cfm small compressor and I want to do some cosmetic sanding on my car or to sand under the car to patch-up rust spots, will that work with a cheaper amazon gun and regular play sand? Time is not an issues, I can wait on my compressor (I got a good water filter, it's set-up for low cfm painting ;) ).
@@cubul32 1 play sand is the least aggressive sand there is as its rounded and not sharp edged. 2 six cfm is too little air flow. That will give you 30 seconds of blast time against 3 minutes of recover time. Since the sand is dull you will get virtually nothing done. Your better off using a rust converter or paint stripper chemical. Amazon sells some good rust converters.
Sensible, well presented, unbiased, helpful presentation. Well done and thanks. Just what I needed. (and no fn music)
Music to my ears. Takes a lot of time to generate videos like this, so I'm glad to hear they help.
The guy that does my vapor blasting on my engine cases also has a massive diesel powered air compressor he uses on commercial outdoor jobs. I’m not experienced in any kind of blasting but he tells me it is all about the air and the quality of the air. It is a very versatile rig. He can do very gentle light blasting for technical jobs or blow holes in something. I think he said the diesel compressor cost about $30,000. Obviously it’s his business and he uses it everyday. He is a talented guy. Lucky to have him close by.
Nice video, thanks for the no-nonsense presentation. I liked how your video moved along and wasn't artificially drawn out (like so many videos) to get more advertising dollars.
We’re in early stages of restoring cars and this was the best and most valuable vid I’ve seen yet. Thanks for helping us out!
I have a pressure washer sand-blaster and get great results with regular beach sand.
Some tips:
Put your sand bucket on a stool so it doesn't have to be sucked up against gravity.
Make sure there are no kinks or coils in the sand feed tube
Take it slow. It's not like pressure washing.
Bump the tip on the work now and then if the sand stops flowing.
Keep the sand feed tube on top, so that water doesn't drip into it. Wet sand won't flow
Do the job on a concrete surface. Leave the wet sand to dry. Sweep it up, sieve it and reuse it.
May I know what is make and model of the pressure washer-sand blaster device that you own? Is it available in retail or a custom made one? Thank you
Won't the silica particles get in your lungs and kill you ???
This. I ordered one off Amazon and it worked great for my truck frame. I did wire wheel prior to get all the heavy stuff off. But the dustless blasting did great on its own and got where the wire wheel couldn't and let the perfect finish for the epoxy primer. If you can't do it on concrete, a large tarp does great at capturing the media for reuse.
Great video. No BS right to the point information. I loved it.
Only Trump does more media blasting. Nice review!
I am the greatest media blaster in the history of all media blasters! My rust removal rate is up one million percent over the previous administration.
Media deserves to be blasted! TRUMP 2024 !!!!!!!!
GREAT VIDEO, back in 1966 I had a 1955 Cadillac Coupe deVille, I bought from an older lady, one owner, I painted it Purple pearl with Blue Metalflake top. About 4 years went by I decided to put it back to stock, I sent it to a local sand blaster to strip the car, about 3 days later I picked up the car and when I got it home I realized that the whole car was TOTALLY RUINED!!!, It was WARPED beyond repair !!! Every panel was TOTALLY RUINED, They used high pressure and the roughest coarsest sand they had the same as you would use on rusty steel pipe or a brick building,!!!. SOOO my recommendation is if you sabdblast a car, BE VERY CAREFUL!!!, or you will have a WARPED pile of junk !!!. 😎😎😎. One more tip IF YOU HAVE TO STRIP A RUSTY CAR, NO MATTER IF YOU SANDBLAST OR ANY OTHER WAY THE INSIDE PANELS ARE STILL RUSTY !!!, IF THE CAR IS WORTH IT, ( HAVE IT DIPPED) BY A STRIPPING COMPANY LIKE (KLEEN STRP) this type of STRIPPING gets Everything, in the seams, pinch welds, rocker panels, A and B posts, the Sail Panels, inside all the places that nothing else can do, Plus they finish it by dipping it in a rustproofing, solution !!!. If your car is worth it, that's the way to go. Thanks William Orange county, Ca.
Yeah, you really gotta watch out for that. I put a warp spot in one of my doors that will need addressed. Keep the nozzle pointing in one place too long and you're sure to start destroying the metal.
The Pressure Washer sand blaster attachment works great for me. I had use the one from Northern Tools. My unit was a 4gpm 3800psi. I had used it to finish a Pressure Washing job. The customer had used House paint on the sidewalk around 30ft. I used pool filter sand from Home Depot at 4$ a bag. Used about 1.1/2 bags to remove the paint.
I used the pressure washer sandblaster to clean a utility trailer with just the old sand from my son's sandbox. Just ran it through a screen to filter out the junk. I also have a 4gpm 3800psi pressure washer which makes a big difference over the OPs pressure washer.
Wey use a 8gpm 3,500 psi with a comet nozzle and the results are amazing.
@Megalimpio México The 4GPM was what I had at the time. Planning on building a 14GPM machine of my own soon..
Excellent demo! You understand the difference between video and radio. Some people talk and talk with no actual demo. This was very easy to understand.
The advantage of wet media is that you don't get it in your lungs as much as dry. Also, if there is a way to collect it, it will be easier to flush the dirt out of the wet bucket than if dry.
How about using dry garnet? No silica dust and much more abrasive at 30/60 grit for your purposes.
There are zero tutorials on sandblasting. While this was not a tutorial it was still very educational.
Well, its is a good demonstration of the limitation of non industrial equipment.
Also a good demonstration of the 3 media types.
With the equipment you have available a car body is probably a bit beyond your current capability, both from a cost and safety angle and a really piss off the neighbours angle.
Personally I'd get the car body done professionally that bitumous underbody coating would just disappear use the coarser media's on the underside and rusty areas and soda on the painted areas. Use the home equipment for the smaller items you can rig a tarp over.
Full overalls, gloves, your respirator and the hood you have would be applicable ppe for any blasting.
Dust in the lungs or blowing skin away from where it should be is very unpleasant.
Thanks for posting.
I had no idea what was the function of sandblasting, thank you for great content and being straight to the point.
You're very welcome
Wonderful. Your demo helps cut through a lot of the hype I have reading. Thank you.
Glad to hear it!
WOW Thank you so much for this video. I am about to do a similar project. It looks like the black beauty is the way to go for the frame cleaning.
Great video glad you use an breathing mask. For those who don't, look up the word silicone. Safety first.
2 compressors working in parallel should keep u blasting continuously, thanks for the Vid!
Wow, that's a great idea 👍
How do you rig that? I have a 12.6cfm and a 6.5, would it work with them?
I used to blast oil rig equipment, and two compressors really helped with removing epoxy paints. Stuff didn’t come off easily. If you want to blast continuously, you need a double chambered blast pot and someone to keep it filled while you blast. I used one on very rare occasions. Only used a single 6.5 cu. ft pot with a 185 cfm Gardner Denver or Ingersoll Rand towable. Regret giving up that job.
@@killerdoxen Don't know why but kinda find sandblasting almost therapeutic. Sounds like you know your stuff! Have a problem sourcing an extraction unit for a blasting cabinet if you could help?
MrCoffeypaul Can be quite satisfying at times. I enjoyed seeing the nice grey freshly cleaned equipment ready for painting or magnafluxing beforehand on the derricks.
Couple sites I found for them if you’re talking about dust extraction from the cabinet.
www.cycloneblasters.com/blast-cabinet-dust-collector/
www.raptorblaster.com/choose-dust-collector-blast-cabinet/
If you’re the diy type, look up cyclonic dust extraction. You could try building one yourself. The trick is to have the dirty air swirling around the inside of the collector against the walls. The dust will rub up on the wall and get slowed down to drop into the collection hopper at the bottom. Typically used for grain cleaning operations. The cleaner air would get sucked up the middle of the cyclone.
Soda blasting is never used for rust removal! It just doesnt remove rust.
It is only for removal of paint and other coatings.
i know of guys doing it.and claiming to remove rust
..but they are upping the spray pressure so defeating the purpose
I was told if u do sand blasting it causes warping on metal
Ok
@@josephjoestar5444 If the gun is pointed at a 90 degree angle at the surface it will warp the metal. It should be aimed at less than 45 degrees. Also, if the gun is aimed in one place too long, the metal will heat up and cause warping.
Outstandingly helpful. I need to do exactly the same job as this, and now I know what works and what doesn't. Thanks for taking the time!
You're very welcome sir. Please consider subscribing.
Do yourself a favor and get a portable air compressor like those high output ones that run jackhammers. Go to an industrial auction and bid on one and bring it home behind your vehicle. You'll have enough air to run two sandblasters.
A lot of people try to run the blasters with a single phase air compressor that doesn't work real well. I had an air compressor with a 4 cyl Ford engine on it. It worked real good.volume = pressure
Great video, thank you dude. So many other videos are full of crap and life stories, thanks for getting to the point and clearly showing the differences.
Thanks! Really glad to hear this video helps folks.
You saved me a lot of time and headaches. Great education from you. Thank you.
Great video, you are testing on probably one of the most difficult thing to get off a car, rubberized rust proofing matetial.
I was a sand blaster back in the 90’s
Mostly used black beauty I sandblasted in a room big enuf for 2 tracker trailer to park side by side
I’ve done everything from soda cans to ships
It’s all in the media and pressure you use
Trust me you will screw something up along the way lol
I trashed a bunch of copper guttering. I could not see it was warping till the job was done and out side the blast room
Lol boss was pisssed
Matt Liebherr
I’ve never tried cerakoting but I’m guessing you would need it blasted but smooth .
Fist TH-cam is your friend !
Second ether glass-bead it or use walnut shells ( get it form the pet store Zila brand is cheap ) or baking soda again TH-cam is your friend watch every video you can find !
Sorry I’m not more help
I do smaller projects than compared to your massive project... I see that dry hand held will do my jobs... Thanks for sharing...
I'm sitting here watching this with a huge burn down my arm where I accidentally sandblasted myself. The hose split off the gun.and oh man does it hurt. I'm gonna be more careful about safety gear and I can't help but notice you have hardly any...no gloves, short sleeves, no ear protection. For those of you reading this...please be safe!
I agree long sleeves and gloves are a solid idea. More importantly though, the safety sticker on all of our outdoor blasters recommends wearing a hood. I probably should have worn a hood in this video, but I decided against it for the sake of the video. I wanted the convenience of being able to easily speak to the camera while making this video. If you're blasting like this, you really should follow the safety labels and wear a protective hood.
Praying for you Martin. Hope you're okay.
Hi Ian,try adding an additional small air supply to your sand supply , in the bottom of your sand bucket ,set it to lightly aerate the sand , it will look like it is boiling ,it will also raise the level of the sand in the bucket , it will increase the sand supply and stop surging , a lot of powder products are transferred this way which helps the venturi .
Great idea. Like this th-cam.com/video/My4RA5I0FKs/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much, great video, sincere and showing facts without interpretation. By sharing your video, you are still helping people like me in 2020.
An easy way to add CFM without altering your wiring is to add compressors rather than running a larger one. This also lets you run just one for light work. Large bore air hose helps too. I don't plumb my air system with fixed pipe and fittings but instead use 3/4" ID red hose and Chicago couplings for high flow lines which do not restrict flow the way lines connected by small couplers do. That also lets me rearrange my equipment easily as I reconfigure my shops when adding equipment or adding more shop space. If I want to add a drop I can do that in minutes by cutting the hose and splicing in a tee with a coupling or whatever fittings I wish.
Not everything is efficient to do at home which makes this video instructive. I blast modest sized parts at home but trailers, frames and other large items get trailered to my local monument shop (they use engine-driven compressors and large pressure pots to cut names and dates in granite headstones). If I had that body to do I'd winch it onto my trailer then weld the rotisserie to the trailer deck using whatever scrap was handy. That's stronger than tiedowns, quick and easy. After blasting it would be easy to slice off the mounts in minutes then wheel the rotisserie off the trailer.
I use scaffolding casters with round shanks to move all sorts of heavy items and mounting tubes are easy to fab so you can swap the casters between items.
Was hopping for the dry ice in the selection of blasting material to compare. Still a very good comparison video. Well done. Thanks for your investment.
You are totally right! Dry sand ,but big compressor which I have diesel powered.... It gets everything off rust undercoating but it is messy when it comes down to it there is no way around it we have a 50 ft by 18 ft sandblasting room. Nobody wants to pay a lot of money to have that stuff done anymore due to the way this world is going. The cheapest thing this place and from home Depot and screen it. You'll get four five uses out of it if you do it inside like we do. Then when it gets beat down we just throw it in the driveway and go buy another pallet. The faster you go the better it is but you need to learn how to angle the gun so you don't warp metal. I appreciate the video!
I hope your guys are using a fresh air supply hood. Using actual sand produces silica dust, which if inhaled, will give a man silicosis and kill him graveyard dead.
All that crap was taking forever,I'm happy you made it short video. Thank you.
why did you watch it then , your ungrateful , go back and sleep
Really good no nonsense demonstration, thanks!
Thank You for making this video it was very helpful !!
Black beauty, 3/16” tip and >12 CFM @90. You can also get quick results with wire cup brush on angle grinder to take off heavy stuff before using the blaster to prevent wasting a lot of blasting media :)
Soda reacts with the paint, it's for cleaning without damaging the material, it leaves a thin coating too.
Very nice, useful video. I was kinda excited about the pressure washer attachment, but after seeing the mess and low quality job I'll stick with dry media. Looking forward to seeing your choices for equipment and media. In my (limited) experience, chemical or mechanical (power sander, wire wheel) methods of rust removal are superior to media blasting. Would like to be proven wrong. Nice video - Thanks! >Charlie
Honestly I've found that blasting media is better at removing rust than anything. A wire wheel on an angle grinder seems to be the best for removing thick bondo. You can use a blaster, but it takes too long and uses a lot of media, so a wire wheel is really best for bondo in my book.
Good information on the different type of blasting best info i have seen
Really glad to hear that. Thanks!
I uses a quite large sand blaster for oil field use that was 220 volt and the air compressor was 300 gal. It still had to be used in stages, then we hooked up a compressor to it that ran on 480 and it helped. I then took an old propane tank (1000 gal) like you see on a farm and put it in the mix. At that point I could blast for 50 min to an hour, and it took 15 min for the 2 compressors to fill it back up to 200 psi.
Assuming the compressors were running during sandblasting, you basically, you needed a third compressor to be able to run continuously. You can then go back to a smaller tank or keep the larger tank for the thrill of it.
Well it got tiresome to only be able to blast for ten to fifteen minutes, and have to wait for 10 minutes in between when we would have hours of work to get done, so I preferred it to be able to run continuously.@@ralphparker
The only efficient method to prep an entire body core is professional
wet tank derusting...
definitely NOT
for most home-based
DIY-ers:
Professional/
amateurs alike
...your video
evaluation IS
much appreciated and helps us all to individually decide what is best use for any given operative...
also note that
ANY grade of sand is not
compatible for
aluminum
metal substrates: sets up
dissimilar metal corrosion
I'm going back a few years but we used was an attachment that was forty bucks from KMS Tools here in Canada that attached to the pressure washer and we could not keep up with the water sand mix! And it was not doing a very good job, and on the back of a flat deck I had my 1967 Beaumont up on jack stands and we decided to try glass and we were blown away how fast! And how clean and how much further a bag of glass would go to finish the job! It really was outstanding say the least
So awesome thank you for sharing that experience❤
You did a great job of comparing the different options. Thanks for your info.
the wet one is also going to be a drain on anyone with a well.I used one to pressure wash my deck last year and for the first time in 40 years I had water issues.
Mr Ward..:.. my dustless machine has its own water tank so aside from filling the tank at the wells own pace there would be no exceltional use of your water system.... check locally for someone using a dustless blasting brand machines
Good comparison. Helped me out. Thanks.
Great video with results you can see, THANK YOU for the information.
great reviews and demos on these products, top job.
Only thing I would have done differently would be to blast the same types of paint/coatings no point doing one point on a roof then switching a over to a stone guard base and trying to compare the two, though that said the smaller hand guns are going to take forever regardless and would recommend only using maybe after a car has been blasted and welded up any repayment patches, give a blast with a smaller gun instead of bringing out the big guns lol but great video and great Infomation and presentation
Wow the nova has sure come a long way. I hope you get it started soon
Good video and it helps me I like those screw type compressors diesel but a lot of bucks
Was a good video! First time watching.
Soda more for soft abrasive work like wood car plastic ect.😂👍. Brought me a camping tent for my work shop . awesome works soft abrasive work.also sand blast 👍 from new Zealand 🌏 .
The rubberized undercutting will have you waste at least twice as much media and take longer. You'll want to avoid sand or black beauty on large body panels, it can create heat and warpage. Save for frame work.
Exactly this was a bogus video designed to discredit water blasting and sell his non water blasting equipment
Depends what you are removing. When you go over the underseal rubber coating, that is going to absorb the impact and slow you down.
You should fill all your tanks up with air and then starting blasting just before your compressor is gunner turn it self of otherwise you'll need to wait until it catches up again that's how ive always done it and never had a problem that way
Nice video! Thanks for taking the time to make this
Nice work. Saved me hours of time
Good info thanks! Do you have a video comparing different media types and grits?
Thanks for the good info, I just purchased a pressure washer blaster kit(cheap amazon) going to give it a try. But from what you experienced I have my doubts.
Wet mess. Yep. Most people try this with their 60 or 80 gallon compressors but I think you just need something that can push 25+ cfm . Unfortunately most of above mentioned big box compressors will not. I think a gas powered truck mounted compressor is bare minimum and about 22 cfm at 100psi. Don’t quote me on that.
I did a boat trailer and fed 2 compressors into 1 line for 19 cfm and it was still somewhat of a struggle but did come out really nice
good information. I like how you explained things
I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing.
I worked in sandblast so big they fit 396Ton load bearing dump truck parts To iron gate fences Truck and trailer
One of the quickest ways around having to blast Rubber coated floors Is remove Or loosen the rubber...Gasoline soak and wipe Now you do not have to sit there was 200 rags and go to work ..But Wipe the rubber with a full soaked rag Have another person behind you with a industrial scrub brush And follow with rag ..wait about a hour Depending on the thickness of the rubber You should have no issues blasting with something stronger then soda I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS for indoor garages Or Vehicles not fully taken apart As sparks could set fire to the rubber coating if Gas is still present in the rubber
The gas cuts into the rubber and makes it softer and easy to roll off as it breaks down the structure of the bond
Always have a form of putting out a fire close by
Built a small 2"x2" lumber 8'X6' frame "Shed" inside my shop and used 2mil plastic to make a "Greenhouse" big enough to fit the tub for my jeep. sand blasting soon.... and for the air supply issue, I'll be renting a Diesel Sullair Compressor for the weekend to save my 80 Gallon compressor from working itself to death
Very very informative and educating. Thank you!
Very informative. I appreciate the i donation I got and the effort you put into the experiment. I laughed at the joke at the end and I gave the video a like for the laugh 😂👌 I would love to see a test run like this with bench top sized pressure blasting box and different media in those.
Thanks for sharing the comparison. Considering the amount of crud and rust on the body, you should have acid-dipped it.
I have use the commercial air compressors and Sand Blast pots that is the macdaddy but On thin metal it will gnaw the metal up you have to be cautious.
Thank you, very interesting vid and very well presented too, but can I ask how soda blasting works on alloy casting, ie, motorcycle engine parts..?
I'm disappointed by the performance of that wet blaster. I was really hoping it would do the job because a pressure washer is a whole lot cheaper than the compressor needed to run a sandblaster. Guess I'll be sticking with chemicals and brushes to get rid of the rust and paint on my old hotrod.
Look up "Dustless Blasting". It's the pro grade version of the backyard rig he was using.
It could be just the siphon pickup , the one i bought just has two tube welded together with one having a bend on the end , anyway most blasters can work a lot better with a good pickup unlike the chinese blaster cabinets , with their venturi unit at the bottom , best to replace this with simple pipe that goes down the hopper and up the other side then drill three holes horizontally at the bottom right through ,leave the end of the pipe open . And if you wand really good sand supply add a small tube to the bottom of you sand /glass/garnet and supply some regulated air this will fluidize the sand and it will flow really well . Cheers .
Put the sand in a Chinese pressure pot, run at 30psi direct to the water lance. Keeps the sand dry and works a treat. I use it to blast paint and rust from truck chassis's.
GOOD VIDEO, I HAVE A 68 FIREBIRD THAT NEEDS BLASTING, I THINK IM GONA RENT A TOW BEHIND COMPRESSOR SO I DONT KILL MINE
That's a good idea. Cheaper than buying a new or bigger compressor.
problem with sandblasting is that you find sand months after in varios body holes XD
That was a good comparison test, I knew that pressure washer would make a mess.
If you step up to a 4 gpm pressure washer, your results will be night and day. 2.5 just ain't gonna get the job done efficiently
Tarp, using fine coal slag in pressurized blaster screen used media 3, 50 lb bags would do a whole car. I have a 60 gal single stage compressor and it keeps up really well. Medium grit i find is to heavy in these home based consumer blasters.
Thanks for the video. A great insight for a noob in sand blasting like me
Pro tip, get two 80 gallon compressors and link them together. Now youve got a 140 gallon with two pumps for half the cost of a 140 gallon with one pump.
Thanks for that mate just what I needed to know 👍
If you sand blast dry you can see the sheet metal moving and soda leaves a greasey film thats hard to remove it also kills the grass.
Was thinking about getting one of those smaller pressure pots, but I can see with what I have planned, it’s gonna be a no go for that. Gonna have to get my hands on a small contractor unit. Looking at a few thousand for a blast pot alone.
Needle Scaler works better to remove Line-X type/Undercoating type rubberized products.
I'd like to see what is the cheapest turbine HVLP compressor you could reliably use with any of the dry systems.
James Copeland HVLP with media blasting???
Not likely
Great information thank you!
I too am surprised the the water pressure washer gadget wasn't better. I would of lost that bet. Came here for soda blasting info, have some very delicate items to clean, (1939 Mercury dash), and some others that soda would be better.
Still wish I could find a video to teach me the different pressures people use for different medias and items.
Even basic like soda @ 60 to 90 PSI
Glass beads @ 70 to 100 PSI
etc. etc.
BTW, good video anyway.
I own a mobile blasting company, River Valley Dustless Blasting out of Pocola, OK. We use various types of media depending on what the customer prefers. We blast dry or wet. Wet blasting has issues, the media will build up in corners. You also have to treat the water with a chemical to prevent rust from forming. The chemical we use allows 24 to 72 hours, depending on the temperature and humidity, before the metal has to be primed. We can blast the outside of most vehicles in about 4 hrs. Look us up on Facebook. We travel about a 60 mile radius of Fort Smith, AR.
Excellent Demonstration !!! Thanks. A big help.
Just a homeowner but found this really informative!
If you Sand blast sheet metal You will get Warping If you do not know what you're doing you will ruin body panels. You have to have the right pressure add you need to blast at an angle. You also need an air supply that is dry if there is Moisture in your equipment it will clog the nozzle.
excellent VIDEO!!!
What worked for me was to use a stripper and let it dry , then go beck and hit with dry coal shot . that seemed to work best for me.
To the best of my knowledge, black beauty sand is just about the most aggressive media available.
Leater, its not really. ALOX, or aluminum oxide, is the most aggressive commonly used abrasive. Its significant more expensive and so aggressive it eats your equipment as well. I've seen ALOX eat a tungsten carbide nozzle in less than 4 hours, which is why silicon boride nozzles are suggested. For something close to coal stages price point, but more aggressive, you can try copper slag.
I am thinking about buying a new compressor mainly to sand or vapor blast glasses made from beer / wine bottles. What PSI, CFM, HP compressor should be bought which will do the job effortlessly? Thank you
My apologies but I have no experience doing that, so I cannot say.
Wow would be nice to see your same review but on wood
Great video. Only problem is you used a small pressure washer. You need minimum 4200psi. But thanks for video because Ii see it uses way to much media I learned from your video
Ps. Can you demonstrate sandblasting aluminum items before the recieve powdercoating how that's done media type etc. I would like to order one from you
Thanks for the video. I'd like to see the best option for blasting patio furniture. I have an old hanamint patio set that I'd like to refinish. What's the best gun set up to get off the old coat of paint, what's the best gun set up to repaint it?
Thanks
We don't deal with painting, so you're on your own there. As for the blasting, I like to put my patio chairs in one of these:
www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/sand-blast-equipment-c-327_501/sand-blast-cabinets-c-327_501_502/clamshell-pressure-pot-blast-cabinet-with-upgraded-vacuum-p-2421
But if you don't have that at your disposal, you can always blast with one of these:
www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/sand-blast-equipment-c-327_501/sand-blast-replacement-parts-c-327_501_507/redline-outdoor-media-blast-kit-p-2911
Great Job
This was very informative
Or just pay somone 800 bucks to do it for you.Thats how much they charge to go to your home and do the dirty work for you.All said and done you spent less money by farming out that part of the job.
Hi.. Thanks for the video.
Is the soda blasting method is suitable for furniture industry?
Currently we are sanding the wood pieces after applying sealer. Is it possible to get the same finishing as sanding in blasting methods
I haven't tried wood so I'm afraid I cannot offer an experienced opinion.
Yes, soda blasting is preferred for blasting wood. Much softer, harsh media would damage wood fibers.