i would like to draw attention to the principles of the individual giving this demonstration. he on more than one occasion let his listeners know of his limitations while giving this demonstration. he also directed to a source that has more technical experience if one should choose to be more informed. this unselfishness is refreshing to hear and see.
I’ve always thought it was never good to put oil on on the spring of any OTF, so I learned something from the video. Question, what is your recommendation about putting a light coat of oil on the blade of an OTF knife?
Watch the video made by Microtech themselves. The guy puts the nozzle from a can of Remoil in the front and just hoses the whole thing down until it’s coming up out of the opening. Then he shakes it out and wipes off the excess abs that’s it. And that’s right from the manufacturer.
now..I'm gonna make my own hidden blade based on this mechanism, I understand pretty much everything except one thing.. when the blade is deploying the spring is pushing the blade forward (and the spring is attached with a hatch to the blade ) but how does the hatch go back to its original position to make the spring tensioned again (just after the blade deployed and the frontal hatch attaches to the blade)? How does it go back? thankful for answers!
Anton Bäckström I've been crafting out a hidden blade as well, currently doing the paper ver. First, just to understand the mechanism then try modifying it.
Yeokk 8399 nice! I'm making mine out of aluminum and brass. And now i understand the whole mechanism! I'd say that I'm halfway through the project and its turning out pretty well. Good luck with the crafting! :)
The blade can easily be removed. That circular pin near the base of the blade is a stop pin that runs in a slot. Remove it with your fingers or a small strong magnet and remove the blade out the front. Just remember to put the pin back!
Yeah I laughed when he said that. If the thing was assembled then there’s obviously a way to get it out. They sure didn’t forge the handle around the blade. 😂
Microtech has a GREAT warranty service! The coil spring broke on my LUDT..mailed it to them, 8 days later it showed up at my house fixed,oiled,sharpened and a new lanyard put on it. They also sent me a "claw" patch and sticker!!! Amazing.
You have a few things incorrect. I want to help you understand a couple things. The top tab-lock only controls the movement of the blade in the retraction. It keeps it from retracting unless the switch is pulled back. The top tab does not keep the blade from deploying. The rear tab-lock only controls the blade in deployment. It keeps the blade from deploying unless the switch is pressed forward. The rear tab-lock does not keep the blade from being retracted. The forward tab is not moved out of the way by the switch or the carriage when the blade is deployed. The design of the locking system on the blade allows it to move over the tab - kinda like a spring-lock on a fence or a retractable electrical cord would work. The blade itself is what moves the tab out of it's way. This is the same way, only opposite for the rear tab - when the blade is being retracted. So you do not need to manually move the front locking tab out of the way when trying to deploy the knife while it's apart, the knife will pass over it - and same for not having to manually depress the rear tab when retracting the knife while it's apart. I hope this helps a little bit.
Rem Oil is the only thing I’ve found that will work on my Ultratech. I used two different kinds of Lucas gun oil, and some Hoppes oil that may have been for fishing reels but I’m not 100% sure. All three of those stopped it up and it would fail to fire nearly every time, despite only putting a couple of drops at the tang and wiping off the excess.
It's such a beautiful design. What clearly goes unsaid, is the amount of engineering and consideration that goes into the materials, and manufacturing processes of these knives. It's like art..
Thanks for the info tho I thought mine was magic and have been scared to look inside I pictured tiny parts shooting everywhere and microtech laughing at me as I beg on the phone will they even do repair if your not a cop?
Great video! I've been holding back from getting one of these for fear that I'd muck it up by opening it. This video was really helpful. Thanks for your effort! Derek Toronto. Canada
I saw a torture test of an Ultratech being hammered through a log tip down. I’m very surprised that little piece of metal is enough to lock the blade from being force retracted
Great job. Your video makes me feel much more confident for when I have to take my Ultratech apart for maintenance. Thank you for providing this information.
Which Microtech OTF would you say has the strongest, most durable spring/lock mechanism? Or are they all the same? I'm trying to decide between an Ultratech and Combat Troodon for my first OTF.
@@_DST0NE_ sweet man, I have never owned a high quality knife or spent more than 50 bucks. Tax money hit and I shouldnt have but ordered a utx70 and utx85! Cant wait to get them
I think sending it in for oiling isn't a bad idea, I'm sure they inspect parts and possibly replace them if necessary. They may catch problems before they become evident in the operation of the knife.
Whoa. I think it's different than the combat troodon, which I have only disassembled once quite a while ago, and is the combat troodon different than a regular troodon? Fascinating. Good work jumping on the grenade for us and filming it. Righteous work man.
Im curious of this myself! Just got my 1st Microtech: The $802 Combat Troodon Mandalorian edition M390 (more like $900 after tax and shipping), and honestly, i feel i overpaid by $300-$400. Not super impressed for the price. Came with a generic cardboard box, clear plastic bag, advertisement and card saying it was inspected by someone that scribbles their initials! No bag, no cloth, no special cardboard outer box even. But i did order from Blade HQ, so i know it's 100% legit! Anyway, curious if the internals are the same as well. I just got my screw bit, so i guess ill find out here shortly, when i decide to do exploratory surgery!
@@jun1orbaitor44 Well the regular Combat Troodon is about $500 I believe, so roughly $300 - $400 of that was in the special edition paint and such. The regular versions of these knives are meant to be used and used hard, so they don't come with anything special like a bag or cool box. I myself just bought a Kabar and it came in a standard cardboard box with a plastic bag and a piece of paper. Doesn't take away from the fact it's a great knife that is meant to withstand the worst of the worst.
@@Trippsy05 You're reaching by saying $300-$400 is for paint, the same paint is available on lower end models that sell for around $300-$400. I've bought dozens of medium end knives, never a Microtech before this, and im personally not impressed. What i paid for was the M390 blade, that was what the price bump was for. But $300 more?! The button was very slightly loose when i 1st got it, as well as the blade being very slightly wobbly, very slightly. After a month of playing with it here and there after work, the button is super loose and the blade wiggles now. To make it even better, MT uses a proprietary screw pattern, so i had to order a special tool to just be able to lube the action! And if you want a MT branded tool, its not cheap. I paid $20 for an Etsy off brand one that's about the size of a 1/8"- 1/4 square drive socket. Ive had 2 Kabars myself, and the packaging is almost identical to this blade, except Kabars come with sheaths! AND COST 1/4 TO 1/8 OF THE PRICE!! I also have Civivi's, Boker's, Kizer's, an Esee 5, CKRT's, TOPS, Mcusta and lower brands like Schrade, SOG, Ontario, Cold Steel, Gerber and more. They range from $25 to $350. They're made from steels between 1095- S35VN, and a couple M390's. I know low to mid grade knives, with a small dabble getting into higher end. This Microtech knife i got was overpriced, by a decent margin. This is a Special Edition blade from a high end manufacturer, it isn't meant to be used hard. It's a Collector's item and should've been packaged as such. Yes, it still can handle major abuse, but the point is this specific model or line is a Collector's item, so dress it up, especially when there's no difference from models that are $300-$400 less except the blade steel, in which case those lower models still have expensive "super steels" as their blades!
So, Looking closely at the (stopped) video, you can see the weaknesses in this (otf) knife design.. Stabbing: When the tip of the deployed knife hits a target (say a piece of wood, or a wall), the force applied in Stabbing motion is directly applied BACKWARDS against that tiny pin (door you said) which is all that prevents the blade from moving backwards. A HUGE weakness. Slashing: Understanding the physics behind a "lever", sideways force applied against the side of the blade (tip?) Is multiplied by the length of the lever (blade) against the last 3/8" of the case of the knife which is all holding in the blade. A great weakness. So.. Now we know, In actual combat, OTF knives are INFERIOR to use where extreme force will be administered. vs. Any fixed blade especially full tang knife which has none of these design issues. FYI Basically, OTF knifes are (expensive) adult cutting toys. Not to be confused with actual survival or combat knives.
The spring under the firing button is to prevent rattle as the button would wiggle loosely without some preload. When you press the button to deploy the spring compresses and the button presses against the body. It does nothing to prevent drag.
There’s a quick tip for when you wanna take apart your otf knife launch the blade and hold it when you retract it back and it’ll come off track and the spring won’t be a issue on holding the handles together when taking it apart
You can put the the slide in with out it engaged. You should but the blade in half way into the frame , the spring connects back to the slide , lay the slide in . Reassemble loose . Put 2 screws back in . Pull the blade out till it locks . Press firm on the top of the frame and test , then put the rest of the screws in. And you can’t call microtech for screws. Almost everything is bad info . If you loos anything they know you were inside and you void the warranty. Yeah they will fix it but you will pay for it .
I have a clone. Someone gave it to me. Looks all the same but when I open the knife it's fine. On Retract the blade pops off again. And blade is floating loose. And suggestions?
To be clear they don't warranty the knife if you damage it when you take it apart. Taking it apart doesn't void the warranty. It's pretty much like anything else if you break your gun taking it apart to clean it then duh.
I still cant figure out why they range from 300 to 600 dollars really they aren't made of gold yes a quality knife but really maybe 200 or 250 tops everyone acts like they are some kind of miracle metal that was discovered on another planet at the end of the day it's a metal blade metal and aluminum lol
puts special screws on their knives, tells you taking it apart voids the warranty, sells the bit to take out their weird ass screws for way more than they are worth... moneys money i guess.
Taught everyone how to get your finger oil over every part and rust their knives. Wipe all parts with rem oil or ballistiol keep fingers off it as much as possible
Thanks for the tutorial,you did a great job took your time to show every piece on how they work you didn't rush through it ,I think that is very important ,I just ordered the troodon was wondering if its the same mechanism
vxgas Naw. I've seen people stab these into treated wood before. The stress points are all steel. The locking mechanism is steel, the steel blade is inside the steel and aluminum frame, etc.
Idk maybe some other clones have better springs, but mine is thin, kinda loose with twisted extremities just after 2 month of use. it misfires 80% of the time.
The blade should most definitely be able to be removed from the handle (it has to be assembled somehow, afterall, right?). I just watched another video where dude removed the blade quite simply by pulling out that stop pin pushed thru the blade, allowing the blade to be slid right out the front. Check it out: th-cam.com/video/1Tb2fbgllI4/w-d-xo.html Also, I'm fairly positive that the spring is always de-energized in either the full-open and full-closed positions. Only when you're sliding the firing button forward or backwards does the spring stretch - temporarily - until the sliding carriage catches back up with the button, releasing all spring tension/energy. It'd be a very unsafe design if the spring was always energized (though this may indeed actually be the case in the single-action models).
+Greg Fowler All the models I've seen so far put the spring under light tension as the starting point. This keeps stuff from falling apart, rattling, etc.
wow this really interests me. makes me wonder what else could be accomplished with this type of system. mabye with a strong enough spring we could make a semi auto airsoft handgun without using the power of co2
Or, skip on over to your own channel and make a video your way. I had some things I wanted to say that involved the subject. Think of it as the introduction in a book.
frantahouska okay, what the hell? Is he not allowed to make a video? Or do you just need to chime in. Because it's his channel, he can do what he wants. It's a good video, and informational, quit putting others down to make yourself feel better of being so poorly endowed.
Can I ask what was wrong with yours? Mine retracts great, but only fully deploys 8 out of 10 times (maybe). Then, I have to manually pull out the blade to lock it open and it works again for a while.
Chris Brady Chris Brady Same problem I grind some points and add ducktape to one place and start to work fantastic ..until the day when the main spring broke ..Now its totaly crap.The whole idea and knife is stupid.If u want lighting fast opening knife get some with emerson flipper .It goes ready out of the pocket faster than these autos because u have two actions with the auto ( grab out of the pocket and press the button) with the emerson type blade u have only one action..I am pissed of these now.Good luck
BRO! You ROCK! I so owe you one! Your demo helped me repair an old blade that fell when taking dimension for that I was building a case for a friend! Thank you! Thank you! Thank You! Whew...crisis averted lol 😂👍 Thank you again🙏
Hey thanks for sharing! I've had the scarab now for over seven years and just love it! They don't work too well in sub-zero temps though, but what does? Anyway, it's kind of nice to see the the mechanism works identical to my old Italian-made OTF knives. Looking forward now to opening it and doing some well needed cleaning.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[1/2] แก๊ง 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้บุก CAMPปลิ้นครั้งนี้ห้ามเสียอาการ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6WUjXHe1TM/mqdefault.jpg)
i would like to draw attention to the principles of the individual giving this demonstration. he on more than one occasion let his listeners know of his limitations while giving this demonstration. he also directed to a source that has more technical experience if one should choose to be more informed. this unselfishness is refreshing to hear and see.
PERHAPS someone already asked, but is that carriage really made of aluminum? I am doubting that.
Fairly certain it is steel.
I’ve always thought it was never good to put oil on on the spring of any OTF, so I learned something from the video. Question, what is your recommendation about putting a light coat of oil on the blade of an OTF knife?
Watch the video made by Microtech themselves. The guy puts the nozzle from a can of Remoil in the front and just hoses the whole thing down until it’s coming up out of the opening. Then he shakes it out and wipes off the excess abs that’s it. And that’s right from the manufacturer.
now..I'm gonna make my own hidden blade based on this mechanism, I understand pretty much everything except one thing..
when the blade is deploying the spring is pushing the blade forward (and the spring is attached with a hatch to the blade ) but how does the hatch go back to its original position to make the spring tensioned again (just after the blade deployed and the frontal hatch attaches to the blade)? How does it go back? thankful for answers!
Anton Bäckström I've been crafting out a hidden blade as well, currently doing the paper ver. First, just to understand the mechanism then try modifying it.
Yeokk 8399 nice! I'm making mine out of aluminum and brass. And now i understand the whole mechanism! I'd say that I'm halfway through the project and its turning out pretty well. Good luck with the crafting! :)
Anton Bäckström j
Anton Howell the same goes for you *tips fedora*
Funny, they don't want you to open the knife...but they'll sell you the bit to do it.
THEY KNOW
The blade can easily be removed.
That circular pin near the base of the blade is a stop pin that runs in a slot.
Remove it with your fingers or a small strong magnet and remove the blade out the front.
Just remember to put the pin back!
Yeah I laughed when he said that. If the thing was assembled then there’s obviously a way to get it out. They sure didn’t forge the handle around the blade. 😂
The blade actually can come out, you just need to remove the pin that holds it.
Oh ok cool! Thank you, I wasn't sure.
I was looking for this. I was thinking, if the blade can't come out, how did they get it in there? Didn't make sense logically.
The spring rests when in or out only gets real tight as you engage or disengage the blade. That's part of what makes these knives so good
Starts at 3:12
“Be careful with this it IS under spring tension” proceeds to hold his hand in front of the blade at every opportunity possible
Good thing it's really not under tension lol. The spring rests when in or out only gets real tight as you engage or disengage the blade.
Microtech has a GREAT warranty service! The coil spring broke on my LUDT..mailed it to them, 8 days later it showed up at my house fixed,oiled,sharpened and a new lanyard put on it. They also sent me a "claw" patch and sticker!!! Amazing.
what a company man comment.
I love the simple design. I'm pretty sure the carriage is made of steel though
You have a few things incorrect. I want to help you understand a couple things.
The top tab-lock only controls the movement of the blade in the retraction. It keeps it from retracting unless the switch is pulled back. The top tab does not keep the blade from deploying.
The rear tab-lock only controls the blade in deployment. It keeps the blade from deploying unless the switch is pressed forward. The rear tab-lock does not keep the blade from being retracted.
The forward tab is not moved out of the way by the switch or the carriage when the blade is deployed. The design of the locking system on the blade allows it to move over the tab - kinda like a spring-lock on a fence or a retractable electrical cord would work. The blade itself is what moves the tab out of it's way. This is the same way, only opposite for the rear tab - when the blade is being retracted.
So you do not need to manually move the front locking tab out of the way when trying to deploy the knife while it's apart, the knife will pass over it - and same for not having to manually depress the rear tab when retracting the knife while it's apart.
I hope this helps a little bit.
I know you made this video three years ago, but great job, man. I still wish I had nabbed a transparent Ultratech when they were available.
The Late Boy Scout You may be interested to know they are available on Bladeops today, I just saw their video saying they got a few.
Always 'derail'/ de-clutch the blade before disassembly. Rem oil is a nice light body oil, and works great on any OTF.
Rem Oil is the only thing I’ve found that will work on my Ultratech. I used two different kinds of Lucas gun oil, and some Hoppes oil that may have been for fishing reels but I’m not 100% sure. All three of those stopped it up and it would fail to fire nearly every time, despite only putting a couple of drops at the tang and wiping off the excess.
It's such a beautiful design. What clearly goes unsaid, is the amount of engineering and consideration that goes into the materials, and manufacturing processes of these knives. It's like art..
Thanks for the info tho I thought mine was magic and have been scared to look inside I pictured tiny parts shooting everywhere and microtech laughing at me as I beg on the phone will they even do repair if your not a cop?
Thank you very much! Your 'terminology' was just fine! 😊
Per chance, do you remember the distance between any two prongs in your 'screw removal tool'?
The blade can come out you have to remove the pin...gotta remember they had to get it in, lol
Great video! I've been holding back from getting one of these for fear that I'd muck it up by opening it.
This video was really helpful.
Thanks for your effort!
Derek
Toronto. Canada
I saw a torture test of an Ultratech being hammered through a log tip down. I’m very surprised that little piece of metal is enough to lock the blade from being force retracted
Can you please post a link to the juju13 video that you mention at the beginning. I haven't been able to find it.
Why not replace the screws with Torx or something?
People are assholes. Thank you for showing me the inner mechanics of this knife.
You noticed that too?
Agreed. Thanks for the video.
Great job. Your video makes me feel much more confident for when I have to take my Ultratech apart for maintenance. Thank you for providing this information.
Shouldn't you take the pressure off the blade first ? It should hang loose before opening
Probably, but I didn't know any better 10 years ago haha
Well don’t worry that’s not a Microtech
Proprietary screws. No thanks.
send your knife in to be sharpened !!! I'd say if you can't sharpen a knife you shouldn't own one
That look fake. It look like a china otf
so many young and dumb! a dab of paint on threads via a tooth pick. NO loc-tite needed!
Which Microtech OTF would you say has the strongest, most durable spring/lock mechanism? Or are they all the same? I'm trying to decide between an Ultratech and Combat Troodon for my first OTF.
What did you end up getting?
@@Jacob_6420 my local gun store had a signature series ultratech on sale.. so I grabbed it!
@@_DST0NE_ sweet man, I have never owned a high quality knife or spent more than 50 bucks. Tax money hit and I shouldnt have but ordered a utx70 and utx85! Cant wait to get them
Thanks for the vid! Just got a microtech and wondered how it all worked
That’s not a real microtech
That was really badly explained and demonstrated, I got completely confused.
You can get after market replacement springs at switchblade kits.com
Ive never purchased a knife that quit working......like THIS ONE DID!
I would buy the tool to insure the proprietary screws don't scratch and rust.
iron or non-stainless steel will contaminate stainless and cause it to begin rusting
They are cool but complex designs are not gonna be so useful in a shit hits the fan scenario
Thank you, and I'm glad it can help! And because that's the only finger it fits well on.
I think sending it in for oiling isn't a bad idea, I'm sure they inspect parts and possibly replace them if necessary. They may catch problems before they become evident in the operation of the knife.
The round piece on my blade chipped in half pretty sure I’m screwed on fixing it right ? I need help please ??
Message microtech, you can buy a new blade for from $65-$85
To remove the blade you have to pull the silver pin out from the bottom of the knife and then push the top lock in and pull the blade out
Whoa. I think it's different than the combat troodon, which I have only disassembled once quite a while ago, and is the combat troodon different than a regular troodon? Fascinating. Good work jumping on the grenade for us and filming it. Righteous work man.
Im curious of this myself! Just got my 1st Microtech: The $802 Combat Troodon Mandalorian edition M390 (more like $900 after tax and shipping), and honestly, i feel i overpaid by $300-$400. Not super impressed for the price. Came with a generic cardboard box, clear plastic bag, advertisement and card saying it was inspected by someone that scribbles their initials! No bag, no cloth, no special cardboard outer box even. But i did order from Blade HQ, so i know it's 100% legit!
Anyway, curious if the internals are the same as well. I just got my screw bit, so i guess ill find out here shortly, when i decide to do exploratory surgery!
@@jun1orbaitor44 Well the regular Combat Troodon is about $500 I believe, so roughly $300 - $400 of that was in the special edition paint and such. The regular versions of these knives are meant to be used and used hard, so they don't come with anything special like a bag or cool box.
I myself just bought a Kabar and it came in a standard cardboard box with a plastic bag and a piece of paper. Doesn't take away from the fact it's a great knife that is meant to withstand the worst of the worst.
@@Trippsy05 You're reaching by saying $300-$400 is for paint, the same paint is available on lower end models that sell for around $300-$400. I've bought dozens of medium end knives, never a Microtech before this, and im personally not impressed.
What i paid for was the M390 blade, that was what the price bump was for. But $300 more?! The button was very slightly loose when i 1st got it, as well as the blade being very slightly wobbly, very slightly. After a month of playing with it here and there after work, the button is super loose and the blade wiggles now. To make it even better, MT uses a proprietary screw pattern, so i had to order a special tool to just be able to lube the action! And if you want a MT branded tool, its not cheap. I paid $20 for an Etsy off brand one that's about the size of a 1/8"- 1/4 square drive socket.
Ive had 2 Kabars myself, and the packaging is almost identical to this blade, except Kabars come with sheaths! AND COST 1/4 TO 1/8 OF THE PRICE!! I also have Civivi's, Boker's, Kizer's, an Esee 5, CKRT's, TOPS, Mcusta and lower brands like Schrade, SOG, Ontario, Cold Steel, Gerber and more. They range from $25 to $350. They're made from steels between 1095- S35VN, and a couple M390's. I know low to mid grade knives, with a small dabble getting into higher end. This Microtech knife i got was overpriced, by a decent margin.
This is a Special Edition blade from a high end manufacturer, it isn't meant to be used hard. It's a Collector's item and should've been packaged as such. Yes, it still can handle major abuse, but the point is this specific model or line is a Collector's item, so dress it up, especially when there's no difference from models that are $300-$400 less except the blade steel, in which case those lower models still have expensive "super steels" as their blades!
So,
Looking closely at the (stopped) video, you can see the weaknesses in this (otf) knife design..
Stabbing:
When the tip of the deployed knife hits a target (say a piece of wood, or a wall), the force applied in Stabbing motion is directly applied BACKWARDS against that tiny pin (door you said) which is all that prevents the blade from moving backwards. A HUGE weakness.
Slashing:
Understanding the physics behind a "lever", sideways force applied against the side of the blade (tip?) Is multiplied by the length of the lever (blade) against the last 3/8" of the case of the knife which is all holding in the blade. A great weakness.
So..
Now we know,
In actual combat, OTF knives are INFERIOR to use where extreme force will be administered.
vs. Any fixed blade especially full tang knife which has none of these design issues.
FYI
Basically,
OTF knifes are (expensive) adult cutting toys.
Not to be confused with actual survival or combat knives.
The spring under the firing button is to prevent rattle as the button would wiggle loosely without some preload. When you press the button to deploy the spring compresses and the button presses against the body. It does nothing to prevent drag.
There’s a quick tip for when you wanna take apart your otf knife launch the blade and hold it when you retract it back and it’ll come off track and the spring won’t be a issue on holding the handles together when taking it apart
It's not a firing button. There is no fire. You don't fire a bow or a knife. Just things with FIRE.
Where can you buy a microtech please put link
9:30 wrong lock. The lock that disengages so the blade can come forward is the one at the back, not the front.
Hmmm... I finally followed Ann's advice and took Woodglut. It's great for beginners and has some advanced stuff too.
Oh my gosh I almost had a heart attack throughout the whole disassembly.
If it's a Sunday, of course I'm going to cycle it in and out all day.
Gayass point on the bottom. No thanks gaycrotech. My hk is just fine. Overpriced garbage. Buy a lightning otf
How much did u get yours for?
You can put the the slide in with out it engaged. You should but the blade in half way into the frame , the spring connects back to the slide , lay the slide in . Reassemble loose . Put 2 screws back in . Pull the blade out till it locks . Press firm on the top of the frame and test , then put the rest of the screws in. And you can’t call microtech for screws. Almost everything is bad info . If you loos anything they know you were inside and you void the warranty. Yeah they will fix it but you will pay for it .
I have a clone. Someone gave it to me. Looks all the same but when I open the knife it's fine. On Retract the blade pops off again. And blade is floating loose. And suggestions?
To be clear they don't warranty the knife if you damage it when you take it apart. Taking it apart doesn't void the warranty. It's pretty much like anything else if you break your gun taking it apart to clean it then duh.
I still cant figure out why they range from 300 to 600 dollars really they aren't made of gold yes a quality knife but really maybe 200 or 250 tops everyone acts like they are some kind of miracle metal that was discovered on another planet at the end of the day it's a metal blade metal and aluminum lol
puts special screws on their knives, tells you taking it apart voids the warranty, sells the bit to take out their weird ass screws for way more than they are worth... moneys money i guess.
Where can i get some Main Replacement Springs, for the Ultratech?? Regards from Croatia
Does Microtech make the housing / handles using Titanium or 7075 T6 aluminum ?
Scott 30th and it was great talking about a month ago and have been working with more information about your
business and
So it's using the little force you out on the trigger to deploy and return the blade ?
Put* Not out. Damn auto-correct.
Taught everyone how to get your finger oil over every part and rust their knives. Wipe all parts with rem oil or ballistiol keep fingers off it as much as possible
I don't think it should void the warranty if they're willing to sell the proprietary bit to disassemble it
The price of the bit is in direct coalition with the knife. OVERPRICED.
If you pull the pin securing blade the blade will come out allowing swapping of blades
Thanks for the tutorial,you did a great job took your time to show every piece on how they work you didn't rush through it ,I think that is very important ,I just ordered the troodon was wondering if its the same mechanism
For how much you pay for the knife, it should include the bit if it's proprietary
Are those tapped screw holes that hold knife together just tapped into the aluminum handle or are they threaded steel inserts in the handle?
The parts are so delicate it seems that a few hard stabs or slashes would break the knife right away
vxgas Naw. I've seen people stab these into treated wood before. The stress points are all steel. The locking mechanism is steel, the steel blade is inside the steel and aluminum frame, etc.
+sherman614 I've even seen the cheap chinese ones hold up to being HAMMERED through MDF and work perfectly fine afterwards.
yep but the spring start to wear relatively fast with a cheap chinese. I don't really recommend those.
where did u find the replacement spring ? you contacted the seller ?
Idk
maybe some other clones have better springs, but mine is thin, kinda loose with twisted extremities just after 2 month of use. it misfires 80% of the time.
The blade should most definitely be able to be removed from the handle (it has to be assembled somehow, afterall, right?). I just watched another video where dude removed the blade quite simply by pulling out that stop pin pushed thru the blade, allowing the blade to be slid right out the front.
Check it out: th-cam.com/video/1Tb2fbgllI4/w-d-xo.html
Also, I'm fairly positive that the spring is always de-energized in either the full-open and full-closed positions. Only when you're sliding the firing button forward or backwards does the spring stretch - temporarily - until the sliding carriage catches back up with the button, releasing all spring tension/energy. It'd be a very unsafe design if the spring was always energized (though this may indeed actually be the case in the single-action models).
+Greg Fowler All the models I've seen so far put the spring under light tension as the starting point. This keeps stuff from falling apart, rattling, etc.
If you smack a little more it will make the video more interesting
Cant you send these back in for maintenance for free? Isnt that apart of the warranty?
What do you mean the blade cannot come out of the handle? They had to put it in there somehow….
wow this really interests me. makes me wonder what else could be accomplished with this type of system. mabye with a strong enough spring we could make a semi auto airsoft handgun without using the power of co2
it would be insanely hard to pull the trigger but yeah its probably possible
I don’t know how they can change such a huge amount of money for a knife that is not worth it!
Is it me, my firing button feels like ripping my finger off to deploy.
damn, it would be easy to make a hidden blade out of that knife.
You're welcome, mate.
skip to 3:13 to finally watch him open the knife. after talking BS and repeating himself several times
Or, skip on over to your own channel and make a video your way. I had some things I wanted to say that involved the subject. Think of it as the introduction in a book.
sherman614 listten to your first three minutes. you are in fact repeating your self
frantahouska I'm human, I make mistakes, sometimes in my videos i forget what I say and end up repeating myself.
frantahouska okay, what the hell? Is he not allowed to make a video? Or do you just need to chime in. Because it's his channel, he can do what he wants. It's a good video, and informational, quit putting others down to make yourself feel better of being so poorly endowed.
Joseph Malicia just put on the ring my precious.
Mine came with the relevant tool for disassembly!
I wanted to watch this but whatever sound you are making with your mouth nty
First guy that actually cut his nails befoer a close up video
first time i opend the knife i lost both of those spring i need replacements
How does the factory get the blade in there if it cant ever be taken out?
Thank you ! You are machine . I just fix my fake copy with your help
Can I ask what was wrong with yours? Mine retracts great, but only fully deploys 8 out of 10 times (maybe). Then, I have to manually pull out the blade to lock it open and it works again for a while.
Chris Brady Chris Brady Same problem I grind some points and add ducktape to one place and start to work fantastic ..until the day when the main spring broke ..Now its totaly crap.The whole idea and knife is stupid.If u want lighting fast opening knife get some with emerson flipper .It goes ready out of the pocket faster than these autos because u have two actions with the auto ( grab out of the pocket and press the button) with the emerson type blade u have only one action..I am pissed of these now.Good luck
If need be...I'll send it back to Microtech.
Y work on an expensive knife with generic tools lol
BRO! You ROCK! I so owe you one! Your demo helped me repair an old blade that fell when taking dimension for that I was building a case for a friend! Thank you! Thank you! Thank You! Whew...crisis averted lol 😂👍 Thank you again🙏
Thank you for stopping by, brother!
The slide isn’t aluminum. The sears are heat treated steel .
Thanks for the shout!
You want to think twice before oiling aluminum.
Tim Wood right on!
Silicone/ Teflon spray is best with aluminum.
..that's the most simplistic spring design compared to others like Benchmade's..that's why microtechs are much more reliable..
Me here looking to make an assassin's Creed blade
Google switchblade kits. They sell replacement springs.
is there a specific name for that tipe of spring or not?
Do not squirt Battle Born Gun Grease down in this knife because it will screw it up.
Which is why I’m watching this vid! Lol
Hey thanks for sharing! I've had the scarab now for over seven years and just love it! They don't work too well in sub-zero temps though, but what does? Anyway, it's kind of nice to see the the mechanism works identical to my old Italian-made OTF knives. Looking forward now to opening it and doing some well needed cleaning.
perhaps it's due to the thermal shrinkage of the metal components when it gets colder but that's just an educated guess
Why not a ball bearing in the deployment button