Microtech has a GREAT warranty service! The coil spring broke on my LUDT..mailed it to them, 8 days later it showed up at my house fixed,oiled,sharpened and a new lanyard put on it. They also sent me a "claw" patch and sticker!!! Amazing.
i would like to draw attention to the principles of the individual giving this demonstration. he on more than one occasion let his listeners know of his limitations while giving this demonstration. he also directed to a source that has more technical experience if one should choose to be more informed. this unselfishness is refreshing to hear and see.
It's such a beautiful design. What clearly goes unsaid, is the amount of engineering and consideration that goes into the materials, and manufacturing processes of these knives. It's like art..
The blade can easily be removed. That circular pin near the base of the blade is a stop pin that runs in a slot. Remove it with your fingers or a small strong magnet and remove the blade out the front. Just remember to put the pin back!
Yeah I laughed when he said that. If the thing was assembled then there’s obviously a way to get it out. They sure didn’t forge the handle around the blade. 😂
Great job. Your video makes me feel much more confident for when I have to take my Ultratech apart for maintenance. Thank you for providing this information.
Rem Oil is the only thing I’ve found that will work on my Ultratech. I used two different kinds of Lucas gun oil, and some Hoppes oil that may have been for fishing reels but I’m not 100% sure. All three of those stopped it up and it would fail to fire nearly every time, despite only putting a couple of drops at the tang and wiping off the excess.
Whoa. I think it's different than the combat troodon, which I have only disassembled once quite a while ago, and is the combat troodon different than a regular troodon? Fascinating. Good work jumping on the grenade for us and filming it. Righteous work man.
Im curious of this myself! Just got my 1st Microtech: The $802 Combat Troodon Mandalorian edition M390 (more like $900 after tax and shipping), and honestly, i feel i overpaid by $300-$400. Not super impressed for the price. Came with a generic cardboard box, clear plastic bag, advertisement and card saying it was inspected by someone that scribbles their initials! No bag, no cloth, no special cardboard outer box even. But i did order from Blade HQ, so i know it's 100% legit! Anyway, curious if the internals are the same as well. I just got my screw bit, so i guess ill find out here shortly, when i decide to do exploratory surgery!
@@jun1orbaitor44 Well the regular Combat Troodon is about $500 I believe, so roughly $300 - $400 of that was in the special edition paint and such. The regular versions of these knives are meant to be used and used hard, so they don't come with anything special like a bag or cool box. I myself just bought a Kabar and it came in a standard cardboard box with a plastic bag and a piece of paper. Doesn't take away from the fact it's a great knife that is meant to withstand the worst of the worst.
@@Trippsy05 You're reaching by saying $300-$400 is for paint, the same paint is available on lower end models that sell for around $300-$400. I've bought dozens of medium end knives, never a Microtech before this, and im personally not impressed. What i paid for was the M390 blade, that was what the price bump was for. But $300 more?! The button was very slightly loose when i 1st got it, as well as the blade being very slightly wobbly, very slightly. After a month of playing with it here and there after work, the button is super loose and the blade wiggles now. To make it even better, MT uses a proprietary screw pattern, so i had to order a special tool to just be able to lube the action! And if you want a MT branded tool, its not cheap. I paid $20 for an Etsy off brand one that's about the size of a 1/8"- 1/4 square drive socket. Ive had 2 Kabars myself, and the packaging is almost identical to this blade, except Kabars come with sheaths! AND COST 1/4 TO 1/8 OF THE PRICE!! I also have Civivi's, Boker's, Kizer's, an Esee 5, CKRT's, TOPS, Mcusta and lower brands like Schrade, SOG, Ontario, Cold Steel, Gerber and more. They range from $25 to $350. They're made from steels between 1095- S35VN, and a couple M390's. I know low to mid grade knives, with a small dabble getting into higher end. This Microtech knife i got was overpriced, by a decent margin. This is a Special Edition blade from a high end manufacturer, it isn't meant to be used hard. It's a Collector's item and should've been packaged as such. Yes, it still can handle major abuse, but the point is this specific model or line is a Collector's item, so dress it up, especially when there's no difference from models that are $300-$400 less except the blade steel, in which case those lower models still have expensive "super steels" as their blades!
You have a few things incorrect. I want to help you understand a couple things. The top tab-lock only controls the movement of the blade in the retraction. It keeps it from retracting unless the switch is pulled back. The top tab does not keep the blade from deploying. The rear tab-lock only controls the blade in deployment. It keeps the blade from deploying unless the switch is pressed forward. The rear tab-lock does not keep the blade from being retracted. The forward tab is not moved out of the way by the switch or the carriage when the blade is deployed. The design of the locking system on the blade allows it to move over the tab - kinda like a spring-lock on a fence or a retractable electrical cord would work. The blade itself is what moves the tab out of it's way. This is the same way, only opposite for the rear tab - when the blade is being retracted. So you do not need to manually move the front locking tab out of the way when trying to deploy the knife while it's apart, the knife will pass over it - and same for not having to manually depress the rear tab when retracting the knife while it's apart. I hope this helps a little bit.
Thanks for the info tho I thought mine was magic and have been scared to look inside I pictured tiny parts shooting everywhere and microtech laughing at me as I beg on the phone will they even do repair if your not a cop?
Great video! I've been holding back from getting one of these for fear that I'd muck it up by opening it. This video was really helpful. Thanks for your effort! Derek Toronto. Canada
Thanks for the tutorial,you did a great job took your time to show every piece on how they work you didn't rush through it ,I think that is very important ,I just ordered the troodon was wondering if its the same mechanism
There’s a quick tip for when you wanna take apart your otf knife launch the blade and hold it when you retract it back and it’ll come off track and the spring won’t be a issue on holding the handles together when taking it apart
I think sending it in for oiling isn't a bad idea, I'm sure they inspect parts and possibly replace them if necessary. They may catch problems before they become evident in the operation of the knife.
I finally got an Ultratech and enjoy it a lot but hate the newer screws which make it real hard to make a custom bit to take the knife apart. Someday I will take mine apart thanks to your helpful video.
Which Microtech OTF would you say has the strongest, most durable spring/lock mechanism? Or are they all the same? I'm trying to decide between an Ultratech and Combat Troodon for my first OTF.
@@_DST0NE_ sweet man, I have never owned a high quality knife or spent more than 50 bucks. Tax money hit and I shouldnt have but ordered a utx70 and utx85! Cant wait to get them
Another point to help explain what I was trying to say is, if the thumb switch moved the forward tab out of the way of the knife for deployment, then the blade would not be locked into place when the switch is in the forward position. I.e, If the forward movement/position of the switch actuated the forward locking tab during deployment, if you were trying to stab into something while using the switch for thumb-grip (common technique), the blade would retract with forward spring tension on it, likely not having enough tension to penetrate the target. (Like keeping the button depressed on an auto). The switch should remain at the forward position when the knife is deployed. Pressing the switch forward with the knife deployed shouldn't change anything. You probably already know these things, but the video seems to show otherwise or that the point was overlooked at the time. Regardless, good video and knives. Keep up the good work.
The haters always seem to abound ??? I found this video to be informative & concise . Own the Benchmade Infidel but didn't really understand how it works or how to properly maintain it. Thank you !!!
My blade won't come out, pin is too tight. I had to de-bur the top switch and one other place to fit, cleaned all of it, reassembled with difficulty and it worked. Thanks.
wow this really interests me. makes me wonder what else could be accomplished with this type of system. mabye with a strong enough spring we could make a semi auto airsoft handgun without using the power of co2
Hey thanks for sharing! I've had the scarab now for over seven years and just love it! They don't work too well in sub-zero temps though, but what does? Anyway, it's kind of nice to see the the mechanism works identical to my old Italian-made OTF knives. Looking forward now to opening it and doing some well needed cleaning.
I’ve always thought it was never good to put oil on on the spring of any OTF, so I learned something from the video. Question, what is your recommendation about putting a light coat of oil on the blade of an OTF knife?
Watch the video made by Microtech themselves. The guy puts the nozzle from a can of Remoil in the front and just hoses the whole thing down until it’s coming up out of the opening. Then he shakes it out and wipes off the excess abs that’s it. And that’s right from the manufacturer.
I would be kind of curious how much pressure one of these knives could take before the blade would snap out, for instance Cold Steel does videos hanging weights from the knife in a vice to prove the strength of their locks and pins, which is amazing, because I wouldn't think any knife blade hanging out on pivot or tang of approximately 1/2 to 1 inch would be that strong or good for much? This is also one of the reasons that I didn't notice or give the OTF's much credit over a flashy or show knife, but it sounds like some people actually carry or use them (where they can).
They’re not hard use knives. They’re more for just general EDC stuff like cutting boxes and rope or whatever. They’re also, especially the dagger edged ones, self defense weapons. These aren’t knives you want for trekking out in the woods or in a survival situation but in reality no folder is. You’d want a sturdy fixed blade. That’s why even though I ALWAYS have a nice folder or my Microtech in my pocket I carry my ESEE Izula 2 as well in a horizontal cross draw setup on my weak side.
I got a OTF that comes out but dont go back in..it gets stuck out , i have to pull the blade a little and loose it and it goes back in...do you think its one of the two little locks that is broken?
The spring under the firing button is to prevent rattle as the button would wiggle loosely without some preload. When you press the button to deploy the spring compresses and the button presses against the body. It does nothing to prevent drag.
I have a clone. Someone gave it to me. Looks all the same but when I open the knife it's fine. On Retract the blade pops off again. And blade is floating loose. And suggestions?
so i have an older trodon and it doesn't 'catch' when fired i have to pull the black out after it drops back down and then it locks. any insight? i'm not the original owner and i've heard micro tech CS is kinda bad.
I saw a torture test of an Ultratech being hammered through a log tip down. I’m very surprised that little piece of metal is enough to lock the blade from being force retracted
To the best of my knowledge the majority of the knife is aluminum, bar the blade, screws, glass breaker and the two springs. I’m not 100% sure, but I think it’s safe to say that every part on the knife is AFAIK steel or aluminum
Yeah. Some of that will make its way into the knife, though. That's probably a good thing, actually, as long as you don't overdo it, or the knife will potentially catastrophic Lee fuk up and require you to send it in. That's what I'm going through right now actually due to over lubrication
BRO! You ROCK! I so owe you one! Your demo helped me repair an old blade that fell when taking dimension for that I was building a case for a friend! Thank you! Thank you! Thank You! Whew...crisis averted lol 😂👍 Thank you again🙏
Thank you for showing how the hell this thing works! Seems like the "core secret" is a spring that is in compression when the blade is in the body, and under tension when the blade is out. Plus some pretty darn clever mechanical features for safety.
+MrLJolley06 If you're looking into an automatic knife, and you're legally aloud to carry one, I highly recommend this one. Fun to play with, and very easy to carry
now..I'm gonna make my own hidden blade based on this mechanism, I understand pretty much everything except one thing.. when the blade is deploying the spring is pushing the blade forward (and the spring is attached with a hatch to the blade ) but how does the hatch go back to its original position to make the spring tensioned again (just after the blade deployed and the frontal hatch attaches to the blade)? How does it go back? thankful for answers!
Anton Bäckström I've been crafting out a hidden blade as well, currently doing the paper ver. First, just to understand the mechanism then try modifying it.
Yeokk 8399 nice! I'm making mine out of aluminum and brass. And now i understand the whole mechanism! I'd say that I'm halfway through the project and its turning out pretty well. Good luck with the crafting! :)
It means it is a Troodon with a black, partially serrated, spear point style blade. (they have 3 different "blade styles," s/e, d/e, and t/e, which I think are spear, drop, and tanto respectively.)
Just recieved my ultratech today! love the knife but the button is WAAY to hard! I have strong hands and there is no way i can get the knife closed using only one hand. The skin on my thumb is all torn up and red form trying to break in the trigger. Somthing to consider!
vxgas Naw. I've seen people stab these into treated wood before. The stress points are all steel. The locking mechanism is steel, the steel blade is inside the steel and aluminum frame, etc.
Idk maybe some other clones have better springs, but mine is thin, kinda loose with twisted extremities just after 2 month of use. it misfires 80% of the time.
Sherman, last year, a HALO V owner on a knife forum was trying to sell his knife that he only had for I think less than 6 months and had a mishap where he thought the spring was broken. He was suggested to fix it himself instead of sending it back to Microtech for a spring since they had a bad reputation of taking forever on servicing warranty issues. Dont remember if he broke the charging handle or if it was a defect, but he ended up having to send it to Microtech anyhow. They ended up replacing the charging handle assembly which included half of the knife, making his look mismatched since it was a camo finish. Ended up costing him I think about $260 all together. So, the guy ends up with about $800 into that knife with now it being half camo and half black and the warranty was void. He tried to get I think about $400 out of it but it never would sell. I would suggest never to take them apart. I sent my Makora II in for a new spring and it took about 3 wks turnaround. Not too bad since it was right after the Shot Show last year. Semper Fi
my suggestion.....instead of using locktite on the screws, use clear nail polish on the threads. Accomplishes the same thing and is easier to "crack" if you need to open it again.
Spring loaded stuff like auto/knives, and oddball firearms, where I am not likely to find replacement parts, I will work inside a heavy duty freezer bag to catch the flying parts. That is NOT a tiny spring. See the detent springs in handgun safeties. Those are tiny springs. They make extractor springs look big. The last gun I had in pieces that factory closed 15 years ago, so spare parts are mostly not out there, unless you know your guns really really well. Why does Micortech have almost 20 different fastener heads? That's $500 for tools to take the knives apart! Yes, it's a $500 knife, but.....
Microtech has a GREAT warranty service! The coil spring broke on my LUDT..mailed it to them, 8 days later it showed up at my house fixed,oiled,sharpened and a new lanyard put on it. They also sent me a "claw" patch and sticker!!! Amazing.
what a company man comment.
@@navyvet05 what a "Squid" comment.
i would like to draw attention to the principles of the individual giving this demonstration. he on more than one occasion let his listeners know of his limitations while giving this demonstration. he also directed to a source that has more technical experience if one should choose to be more informed. this unselfishness is refreshing to hear and see.
The spring rests when in or out only gets real tight as you engage or disengage the blade. That's part of what makes these knives so good
It's such a beautiful design. What clearly goes unsaid, is the amount of engineering and consideration that goes into the materials, and manufacturing processes of these knives. It's like art..
The blade can easily be removed.
That circular pin near the base of the blade is a stop pin that runs in a slot.
Remove it with your fingers or a small strong magnet and remove the blade out the front.
Just remember to put the pin back!
Yeah I laughed when he said that. If the thing was assembled then there’s obviously a way to get it out. They sure didn’t forge the handle around the blade. 😂
Thank you very much! Your 'terminology' was just fine! 😊
Per chance, do you remember the distance between any two prongs in your 'screw removal tool'?
Great job. Your video makes me feel much more confident for when I have to take my Ultratech apart for maintenance. Thank you for providing this information.
The blade actually can come out, you just need to remove the pin that holds it.
Oh ok cool! Thank you, I wasn't sure.
I was looking for this. I was thinking, if the blade can't come out, how did they get it in there? Didn't make sense logically.
I know you made this video three years ago, but great job, man. I still wish I had nabbed a transparent Ultratech when they were available.
The Late Boy Scout You may be interested to know they are available on Bladeops today, I just saw their video saying they got a few.
Always 'derail'/ de-clutch the blade before disassembly. Rem oil is a nice light body oil, and works great on any OTF.
Rem Oil is the only thing I’ve found that will work on my Ultratech. I used two different kinds of Lucas gun oil, and some Hoppes oil that may have been for fishing reels but I’m not 100% sure. All three of those stopped it up and it would fail to fire nearly every time, despite only putting a couple of drops at the tang and wiping off the excess.
Starts at 3:12
Whoa. I think it's different than the combat troodon, which I have only disassembled once quite a while ago, and is the combat troodon different than a regular troodon? Fascinating. Good work jumping on the grenade for us and filming it. Righteous work man.
Im curious of this myself! Just got my 1st Microtech: The $802 Combat Troodon Mandalorian edition M390 (more like $900 after tax and shipping), and honestly, i feel i overpaid by $300-$400. Not super impressed for the price. Came with a generic cardboard box, clear plastic bag, advertisement and card saying it was inspected by someone that scribbles their initials! No bag, no cloth, no special cardboard outer box even. But i did order from Blade HQ, so i know it's 100% legit!
Anyway, curious if the internals are the same as well. I just got my screw bit, so i guess ill find out here shortly, when i decide to do exploratory surgery!
@@jun1orbaitor44 Well the regular Combat Troodon is about $500 I believe, so roughly $300 - $400 of that was in the special edition paint and such. The regular versions of these knives are meant to be used and used hard, so they don't come with anything special like a bag or cool box.
I myself just bought a Kabar and it came in a standard cardboard box with a plastic bag and a piece of paper. Doesn't take away from the fact it's a great knife that is meant to withstand the worst of the worst.
@@Trippsy05 You're reaching by saying $300-$400 is for paint, the same paint is available on lower end models that sell for around $300-$400. I've bought dozens of medium end knives, never a Microtech before this, and im personally not impressed.
What i paid for was the M390 blade, that was what the price bump was for. But $300 more?! The button was very slightly loose when i 1st got it, as well as the blade being very slightly wobbly, very slightly. After a month of playing with it here and there after work, the button is super loose and the blade wiggles now. To make it even better, MT uses a proprietary screw pattern, so i had to order a special tool to just be able to lube the action! And if you want a MT branded tool, its not cheap. I paid $20 for an Etsy off brand one that's about the size of a 1/8"- 1/4 square drive socket.
Ive had 2 Kabars myself, and the packaging is almost identical to this blade, except Kabars come with sheaths! AND COST 1/4 TO 1/8 OF THE PRICE!! I also have Civivi's, Boker's, Kizer's, an Esee 5, CKRT's, TOPS, Mcusta and lower brands like Schrade, SOG, Ontario, Cold Steel, Gerber and more. They range from $25 to $350. They're made from steels between 1095- S35VN, and a couple M390's. I know low to mid grade knives, with a small dabble getting into higher end. This Microtech knife i got was overpriced, by a decent margin.
This is a Special Edition blade from a high end manufacturer, it isn't meant to be used hard. It's a Collector's item and should've been packaged as such. Yes, it still can handle major abuse, but the point is this specific model or line is a Collector's item, so dress it up, especially when there's no difference from models that are $300-$400 less except the blade steel, in which case those lower models still have expensive "super steels" as their blades!
You have a few things incorrect. I want to help you understand a couple things.
The top tab-lock only controls the movement of the blade in the retraction. It keeps it from retracting unless the switch is pulled back. The top tab does not keep the blade from deploying.
The rear tab-lock only controls the blade in deployment. It keeps the blade from deploying unless the switch is pressed forward. The rear tab-lock does not keep the blade from being retracted.
The forward tab is not moved out of the way by the switch or the carriage when the blade is deployed. The design of the locking system on the blade allows it to move over the tab - kinda like a spring-lock on a fence or a retractable electrical cord would work. The blade itself is what moves the tab out of it's way. This is the same way, only opposite for the rear tab - when the blade is being retracted.
So you do not need to manually move the front locking tab out of the way when trying to deploy the knife while it's apart, the knife will pass over it - and same for not having to manually depress the rear tab when retracting the knife while it's apart.
I hope this helps a little bit.
Can you please post a link to the juju13 video that you mention at the beginning. I haven't been able to find it.
Thanks for the info tho I thought mine was magic and have been scared to look inside I pictured tiny parts shooting everywhere and microtech laughing at me as I beg on the phone will they even do repair if your not a cop?
Great video! I've been holding back from getting one of these for fear that I'd muck it up by opening it.
This video was really helpful.
Thanks for your effort!
Derek
Toronto. Canada
Funny, they don't want you to open the knife...but they'll sell you the bit to do it.
THEY KNOW
I love the simple design. I'm pretty sure the carriage is made of steel though
Thanks for the tutorial,you did a great job took your time to show every piece on how they work you didn't rush through it ,I think that is very important ,I just ordered the troodon was wondering if its the same mechanism
There’s a quick tip for when you wanna take apart your otf knife launch the blade and hold it when you retract it back and it’ll come off track and the spring won’t be a issue on holding the handles together when taking it apart
“Be careful with this it IS under spring tension” proceeds to hold his hand in front of the blade at every opportunity possible
Good thing it's really not under tension lol. The spring rests when in or out only gets real tight as you engage or disengage the blade.
Thanks for the vid! Just got a microtech and wondered how it all worked
Are those tapped screw holes that hold knife together just tapped into the aluminum handle or are they threaded steel inserts in the handle?
I think sending it in for oiling isn't a bad idea, I'm sure they inspect parts and possibly replace them if necessary. They may catch problems before they become evident in the operation of the knife.
I finally got an Ultratech and enjoy it a lot but hate the newer screws which make it real hard to make a custom bit to take the knife apart.
Someday I will take mine apart thanks to your helpful video.
Which Microtech OTF would you say has the strongest, most durable spring/lock mechanism? Or are they all the same? I'm trying to decide between an Ultratech and Combat Troodon for my first OTF.
What did you end up getting?
@@Jacob_6420 my local gun store had a signature series ultratech on sale.. so I grabbed it!
@@_DST0NE_ sweet man, I have never owned a high quality knife or spent more than 50 bucks. Tax money hit and I shouldnt have but ordered a utx70 and utx85! Cant wait to get them
Another point to help explain what I was trying to say is, if the thumb switch moved the forward tab out of the way of the knife for deployment, then the blade would not be locked into place when the switch is in the forward position. I.e, If the forward movement/position of the switch actuated the forward locking tab during deployment, if you were trying to stab into something while using the switch for thumb-grip (common technique), the blade would retract with forward spring tension on it, likely not having enough tension to penetrate the target. (Like keeping the button depressed on an auto).
The switch should remain at the forward position when the knife is deployed. Pressing the switch forward with the knife deployed shouldn't change anything.
You probably already know these things, but the video seems to show otherwise or that the point was overlooked at the time. Regardless, good video and knives. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for explaining it the way you did. I have been looking for hours to see how this works, so that I can make one. Thank you!
Thanks for the video, I just ordered this knife and can’t wait to get it
Where can you buy a microtech please put link
9:30 wrong lock. The lock that disengages so the blade can come forward is the one at the back, not the front.
The haters always seem to abound ??? I found this video to be informative & concise . Own the Benchmade Infidel but didn't really understand how it works or how to properly maintain it. Thank you !!!
PERHAPS someone already asked, but is that carriage really made of aluminum? I am doubting that.
Fairly certain it is steel.
My blade won't come out, pin is too tight. I had to de-bur the top switch and one other place to fit, cleaned all of it, reassembled with difficulty and it worked. Thanks.
Where can i get some Main Replacement Springs, for the Ultratech?? Regards from Croatia
How much did u get yours for?
The round piece on my blade chipped in half pretty sure I’m screwed on fixing it right ? I need help please ??
Message microtech, you can buy a new blade for from $65-$85
Thank you, and I'm glad it can help! And because that's the only finger it fits well on.
Cant you send these back in for maintenance for free? Isnt that apart of the warranty?
wow this really interests me. makes me wonder what else could be accomplished with this type of system. mabye with a strong enough spring we could make a semi auto airsoft handgun without using the power of co2
it would be insanely hard to pull the trigger but yeah its probably possible
How does the factory get the blade in there if it cant ever be taken out?
Does the factory put blue loctite on there OTF? Thanks for sharing.
Hey thanks for sharing! I've had the scarab now for over seven years and just love it! They don't work too well in sub-zero temps though, but what does? Anyway, it's kind of nice to see the the mechanism works identical to my old Italian-made OTF knives. Looking forward now to opening it and doing some well needed cleaning.
perhaps it's due to the thermal shrinkage of the metal components when it gets colder but that's just an educated guess
Why not replace the screws with Torx or something?
Great video. I don't plan to disassemble my UTX-85 but it's nice to see how it works.
Does Microtech make the housing / handles using Titanium or 7075 T6 aluminum ?
I’ve always thought it was never good to put oil on on the spring of any OTF, so I learned something from the video. Question, what is your recommendation about putting a light coat of oil on the blade of an OTF knife?
Watch the video made by Microtech themselves. The guy puts the nozzle from a can of Remoil in the front and just hoses the whole thing down until it’s coming up out of the opening. Then he shakes it out and wipes off the excess abs that’s it. And that’s right from the manufacturer.
I would be kind of curious how much pressure one of these knives could take before the blade would snap out, for instance Cold Steel does videos hanging weights from the knife in a vice to prove the strength of their locks and pins, which is amazing, because I wouldn't think any knife blade hanging out on pivot or tang of approximately 1/2 to 1 inch would be that strong or good for much? This is also one of the reasons that I didn't notice or give the OTF's much credit over a flashy or show knife, but it sounds like some people actually carry or use them (where they can).
They’re not hard use knives. They’re more for just general EDC stuff like cutting boxes and rope or whatever. They’re also, especially the dagger edged ones, self defense weapons. These aren’t knives you want for trekking out in the woods or in a survival situation but in reality no folder is. You’d want a sturdy fixed blade. That’s why even though I ALWAYS have a nice folder or my Microtech in my pocket I carry my ESEE Izula 2 as well in a horizontal cross draw setup on my weak side.
My son lost the small switch spring while disassembling. Any idea where to find a replacement?
sherman,is it possible to change so it would pierce thru objects instead of bouncing off? steve
I got a OTF that comes out but dont go back in..it gets stuck out , i have to pull the blade a little and loose it and it goes back in...do you think its one of the two little locks that is broken?
If its a microtech it probly just needs maintenance. If cheep one it could just need maintenance but also could have a bent or broken piece or more.
Nice screwdriver!
Did you have any problems with spring in this knife?
да, мужик красавчик. я тоже сейчас смотрю. купил уже торксы т15 чтобы биту выпилить, но что то пока ленюсь, думаю хренотень такую же проще замутить
The spring under the firing button is to prevent rattle as the button would wiggle loosely without some preload. When you press the button to deploy the spring compresses and the button presses against the body. It does nothing to prevent drag.
I have a clone. Someone gave it to me. Looks all the same but when I open the knife it's fine. On Retract the blade pops off again. And blade is floating loose. And suggestions?
so i have an older trodon and it doesn't 'catch' when fired i have to pull the black out after it drops back down and then it locks. any insight? i'm not the original owner and i've heard micro tech CS is kinda bad.
Thank you for stopping by, brother!
The hole on the side of the firing handle is to reduce sliding friction i would assume.
I saw a torture test of an Ultratech being hammered through a log tip down. I’m very surprised that little piece of metal is enough to lock the blade from being force retracted
So everything is aluminum on the inside? For the most part anyway?
To the best of my knowledge the majority of the knife is aluminum, bar the blade, screws, glass breaker and the two springs. I’m not 100% sure, but I think it’s safe to say that every part on the knife is AFAIK steel or aluminum
I'll be getting an ultratech. Is it ok for me to apply a thin coat of mineral oil on the blade just to prevent it from rusting?
Yeah. Some of that will make its way into the knife, though. That's probably a good thing, actually, as long as you don't overdo it, or the knife will potentially catastrophic Lee fuk up and require you to send it in. That's what I'm going through right now actually due to over lubrication
Shouldn't you take the pressure off the blade first ? It should hang loose before opening
Probably, but I didn't know any better 10 years ago haha
I would buy the tool to insure the proprietary screws don't scratch and rust.
iron or non-stainless steel will contaminate stainless and cause it to begin rusting
BRO! You ROCK! I so owe you one! Your demo helped me repair an old blade that fell when taking dimension for that I was building a case for a friend! Thank you! Thank you! Thank You! Whew...crisis averted lol 😂👍 Thank you again🙏
Can you make a video on how you made the driver?
To be honest, I understood you a lot better than the other guy ;-)
Thank you for showing how the hell this thing works! Seems like the "core secret" is a spring that is in compression when the blade is in the body, and under tension when the blade is out. Plus some pretty darn clever mechanical features for safety.
does the lock/gate scratch on the edge of the blade?
Not at all
what's wrong with spraying it with WD-40?
If you want your hands to smell like fish LOL
Is this a knife worth buying? Just curious, because I'm looking for a knife. And I'm not real sure what kind if what brand I should buy.
+MrLJolley06 If you're looking into an automatic knife, and you're legally aloud to carry one, I highly recommend this one. Fun to play with, and very easy to carry
+sherman614 Cool, thanks boss.
Thank you, brother! I appreciate you stopping by!
If you pull the pin securing blade the blade will come out allowing swapping of blades
Does the Troodon have a similar mechanism?
Yes, except the Troodon has 2 springs instead of 1
sherman614 Neat. I snagged one at a gun show over an Ultratech the other day. Love it so far.
Are those handles casted?
+tungruffel They are milled out of billet aircraft grade aluminum
where can i get this and how much would it be?
$50 dhgate
Blade hq, $290.00 you get what you pay for
To remove the blade you have to pull the silver pin out from the bottom of the knife and then push the top lock in and pull the blade out
I'd have some PTFE lube on those guides, groves, latches & switches for smooth operation.
great video i always wondered how these worked i am planning on buying this knife actually
now..I'm gonna make my own hidden blade based on this mechanism, I understand pretty much everything except one thing..
when the blade is deploying the spring is pushing the blade forward (and the spring is attached with a hatch to the blade ) but how does the hatch go back to its original position to make the spring tensioned again (just after the blade deployed and the frontal hatch attaches to the blade)? How does it go back? thankful for answers!
Anton Bäckström I've been crafting out a hidden blade as well, currently doing the paper ver. First, just to understand the mechanism then try modifying it.
Yeokk 8399 nice! I'm making mine out of aluminum and brass. And now i understand the whole mechanism! I'd say that I'm halfway through the project and its turning out pretty well. Good luck with the crafting! :)
Anton Bäckström j
Anton Howell the same goes for you *tips fedora*
first time i opend the knife i lost both of those spring i need replacements
Where do I find a fire button spring, I lost mine on my combat troodon..😞
Use the spring from a pilot pen 🤣
Why not a ball bearing in the deployment button
Thanks for the video. Always wondered what kind of space magic these things used :D
Getting my first microtech ultratech. Thanks for the info
Does anyone know the meaning of the suffix? 139-2 for instance.
It means it is a Troodon with a black, partially serrated, spear point style blade. (they have 3 different "blade styles," s/e, d/e, and t/e, which I think are spear, drop, and tanto respectively.)
Thanks for the shout!
Just recieved my ultratech today! love the knife but the button is WAAY to hard! I have strong hands and there is no way i can get the knife closed using only one hand. The skin on my thumb is all torn up and red form trying to break in the trigger. Somthing to consider!
Strong hands huh? I don't know why that made me crack up so much.i guess I should of just said lol.lol
Can you ship to Canada
Thank You for details... i love these knives
Good video. I have my first one on order. I probably would refer back to your video before I worked on it 👍🏻
Fantastically confusing, I'm impressed
Thank you for your comment on a nearly 10 year old video, I hope to see you in another decade. 👍
The parts are so delicate it seems that a few hard stabs or slashes would break the knife right away
vxgas Naw. I've seen people stab these into treated wood before. The stress points are all steel. The locking mechanism is steel, the steel blade is inside the steel and aluminum frame, etc.
+sherman614 I've even seen the cheap chinese ones hold up to being HAMMERED through MDF and work perfectly fine afterwards.
yep but the spring start to wear relatively fast with a cheap chinese. I don't really recommend those.
where did u find the replacement spring ? you contacted the seller ?
Idk
maybe some other clones have better springs, but mine is thin, kinda loose with twisted extremities just after 2 month of use. it misfires 80% of the time.
I don't think it should void the warranty if they're willing to sell the proprietary bit to disassemble it
Cool video I love watching stuff like this. I don't have a double action myself so it's cool to see how it works.
Sherman, last year, a HALO V owner on a knife forum was trying to sell his knife that he only had for I think less than 6 months and had a mishap where he thought the spring was broken. He was suggested to fix it himself instead of sending it back to Microtech for a spring since they had a bad reputation of taking forever on servicing warranty issues.
Dont remember if he broke the charging handle or if it was a defect, but he ended up having to send it to Microtech anyhow. They ended up replacing the charging handle assembly which included half of the knife, making his look mismatched since it was a camo finish. Ended up costing him I think about $260 all together. So, the guy ends up with about $800 into that knife with now it being half camo and half black and the warranty was void. He tried to get I think about $400 out of it but it never would sell. I would suggest never to take them apart. I sent my Makora II in for a new spring and it took about 3 wks turnaround. Not too bad since it was right after the Shot Show last year. Semper Fi
my suggestion.....instead of using locktite on the screws, use clear nail polish on the threads. Accomplishes the same thing and is easier to "crack" if you need to open it again.
You just earned a SUBSCRIBER... This video was spot on and saved me time... Thank you sir.
🦍🤙👑💯
Thanks for the vid Sherman! Very helpful! Now I know how my ultratech works!
Google switchblade kits. They sell replacement springs.
is there a specific name for that tipe of spring or not?
Spring loaded stuff like auto/knives, and oddball firearms, where I am not likely to find replacement parts, I will work inside a heavy duty freezer bag to catch the flying parts. That is NOT a tiny spring. See the detent springs in handgun safeties. Those are tiny springs. They make extractor springs look big. The last gun I had in pieces that factory closed 15 years ago, so spare parts are mostly not out there, unless you know your guns really really well. Why does Micortech have almost 20 different fastener heads? That's $500 for tools to take the knives apart! Yes, it's a $500 knife, but.....
The blade can come out you have to remove the pin...gotta remember they had to get it in, lol