Hey Tom, long time watcher of every video that you’ve ever put out and just want you to know, I really appreciate all the hard work that you put into them. It inspired me to build my own pontoon and currently just finished putting the plywood on it. if you get a chance I would love for you to get a hold of the new railing kits from pontoon stuff and do some videos with them as well as their newest console that has the side mount for the controls. It will be a couple months before I’m at that stage, but I’m interested to see how it turns out, and if you like them. I already have my railing kit that I got from them from their original prototype run. I took your advice and got a hold of them and I probably got one of the last sets so I’ve just been sitting on it till I’m ready. Thanks for all that you do. Also, another great idea that I believe some viewers would be interested in is to do a aftermarket transom mount fuel tank to see the fitment and installation of that. If I come up with any more ideas, I’ll let you know. Lol. Thanks, Wes.
Thanks so much for watching the channel and for the kind words and appreciation. It's a lot of time spent filming, editing, responding to comments and questions...but something I still love doing so I hope to continue it for the long haul. I will 100% be doing videos on the railing kits as soon as they start shipping. I think I have 5 sets on order already for upcoming boats. The first couple I have to do some modifications to, so those won't have detailed videos (because it'll be totally unique to these boats). I will definitely be covering that new console as well. I'll be installing my first of those soon, and will film the second one once I have my steps figured out and best ways to explain it. I completely understand the transom mount tank install request...there aren't a ton of aftermarket options out there for them though, and they're very pricey. Personally I would never install one on my own boat...my friend who is a marine mechanic at a local shop has only ever seen them cause problems with water in the fuel. The seals at the sender eventually rot and crack from the wet/dry of being where water can constantly be splashing, and then let water into the fuel. A water/fuel separator is an absolute MUST, and I'd even go with one with a viewing window at the bottom with a drain to keep a very close eye on it. I always appreciate the suggestions, it often gives us ideas that we haven't thought of yet!
Thank you! And thanks for sharing the video. I think a lot of folks get nervous about a switch like this not understanding the simplicity of it. I can see where it would be scary dealing with all that power going through the switch as it's a critical part....but with this kit you get everything you need and don't have to worry about setting it up wrong as long as you follow the steps.
Simple? Yep! Funny, I’ve watched all your videos (and some I don’t think you’ve produced yet) and I’m sitting here planning the wiring for my houseboat. Update; I’ve managed to locate some used 36’ pontoon ex-water taxis that I’m going to be using. Some are tri-toons! My cabin just went from 16’ to 20’. YAY! Oh yeah, electrical; because I’m planning to cruise the Canadian side of the Great Lakes and canal system, I’m building in both a solar and dual fuel generator for house 110 and 12v power and keeping the electrics for the boat separated, cuz I like the idea of preventing surprises on retuning to the boat and having multiple redundancy. So my isolation requirements require a bit more wire but it’s basically what you’ve shown in this and the other isolating switch videos. Thanks!
@@luisaraujo4708 I am careful to avoid saying that anything is "easy"...."simple" better describes a lot of things that aren't overly complicated, and can be done by someone who isn't necessarily an expert in the field. Like changing a tire on your car. Not complicated, and most anyone can do it, but not necessarily easy to everyone out there. You've got the most unique setup in terms of boat wiring because it also has to be wired as a house. Sounds like you're on the right track with your plan, and WHAT A SCORE on those 36' pontoons!!!
I like to add dielectric grease to the terminals for the switch before installing. It will be buried and never looked at, adds a bit of protection from corrosion. This switch is made by marineco good quality switch like perko or sea choice not the cheap ones sold on jungle site that burn up.
That definitely can't hurt! Up here in freshwater it doesn't tend to be an issue once installed with the tinned copper terminals. However, if I were anywhere near saltwater with it I would be adding dielectric grease to every single connection! I just noticed the knock-off switches on Amazon and thought to myself..."golly people are going to try to save a buck and order these. There are just some things that aren't worth trying to save money on."
@@tomspontoons my switches are mounted in bildge area, backside of the panel. So all you see is the knob out in front. The bildge area has just enough moisture now and then that I had corrosion on positive battery terminals and switch. This is in freshwater. My trolling motor batteries also suffer from this, they are mounted below deck, lack of airflow is caused it both on my leads and now lithiums. Guess if it's installed surface mount air is keeping it dry. Those cheap switches will melt if anything than 40 amps is pulled thru it, my little 30hp motors pull 60a for the starter the bigger motors pull 90-110a. I melted one, the contacts where thin. Saving 20$ on critical item was not worth it. Suppose it has a place if you use it knowing this.
@@omieyouknowme And most people don't know those details and would melt a cheap switch trying to save that $20. You don't ground to the boat frame at all do you? I just haven't seen too much corrosion like that on boats I've worked on. I've seen them get corrosion on battery terminals from time to time on motors, but it's usually 20 year old motors that have been hooked to the same battery for the last 10 and never cleaned!
@@tomspontoons all my grounds are at battery terminal and one ground from battery to frame of boat. My other boat I run all grounds to a common bus bar that is tied to battery. Both of them are inside bildge areas. the only time I have had issues is if there is standing water in bildge for a few weeks. I make sure bow is pointed up during storage so it drains everything. This has made a huge difference. Kills me when I see boats stored level then the slightest movement water is pouring out. Or when operators leave the drain plug in for storage or transport
@@omieyouknowme Personally I would lose the ground to the frame of the boat. I've never used them and a friend who's a marine mechanic swears against them. I eliminated one on a boat I restored last year and their phantom draw went away...they'd have a dead battery constantly. In my friend's words..."10 out of 10 do not recommend grounding to the frame". I know it's a battle of opinions on the topic/method, but I've had good luck following his advice!
Perfect! I've got a video coming next week as a follow up that shows how to install the Guest brand 4 position battery switch, for the folks out there with all sorts of electrical accessories and add-ons running two batteries. For a one battery boat I feel that this on/off switch is a must!
Yep, most have a little indicator LED that’ll stay on. That’s why I run my chargers to a switch on the dash panel AND go with a battery switch, either on/off or four position depending on the boat.
Going back to the Crest Tritoon build, how did you get the nuts on carriage bolts! Mine has no opening without taking plywood off. I have a 2000 25’ Crest and a center toon.
There’s a specific 3” deck bolt sold by pontoon stuff for Crest pontoons. Installing Pontoon Deck w/ 3" Deck Bolts - CREST PONTOON DECKING th-cam.com/video/syNwS4-aupU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Tom! Hey, pontoonstuff has been out of stainless steal cup holders with RGB for quite sometime. I wanna order like 10 of them. Any alternatives you recommend? I want RGB and must be stainless steal, high quality. Thnx!
Shoot me an email to remind men to check (tomspontoons@gmail.com). I think I have a decent amount of their stainless LED cup holders. The other style I've used was from Amazon and had ring lights around the entire, so they glow even with a cup in the middle. The ones we've installed from Pontoon Stuff were great, but if there's a cup in the holder the light is covered.
Tom, I have a 12 V starter and a 12 V deep cycle house battery. Can I wire them in parallel and use just one on/off switch (which I have) to turn them both off and on or do I need a three-way switch?
I don’t see why you couldn’t simply run them in parallel and the positive to a on/off switch. Just be sure they’re the same battery type (lead acid, lithium, AGM, etc) as mixing types can cause problems.
To my knowledge you cannot mix battery types nor voltage supplies. When running on both you are putting the batteries in parallel where they MUST be at the same voltage. I imagine doing what you’re asking would cause catastrophic failure.
Hello Sir I’m putting my boat back together and I can’t remember which cable is forward and which one is reverse. One has a h and the other one has a m or w. How can I tell which one is which?
Are you referring to your outboard shift cable? There is only one cable for shifting and the shift mechanism will either pull or push it into and out of gears. To determine which is the shift cable start with the shifter in neutral, then shift into forward. The first cable to move is your shift cable. If you continue into forward with throttle then you will see the throttle cable move.
I’ve never seen a control box that has two shift cables coming out of it. Always one shift and one throttle. Likewise the motor only has one place for the shift cable to hook to. What make, model, and year of outboard?
@@tomspontoons It is a shift and throttle cable. I’m sorry just wasn’t thinking. Can you tell me which side the shift cable goes on. I’m lost. I took it apart 3 months ago then got sick and was sick for over 10 weeks so I’m finally getting to put it back together and I don’t remember what went where
I’ve seen battery switches with .1 - .3 amps of current draw… WHILE OFF. Has anyone else noticed (or checked) this? I’ve not tested this switch…. It I’ve tested (3) BlueSea and had this…. Maybe it was bad luck… but it was absolutely drawing power when it shouldn’t.
To my knowledge that would be a faulty switch, but I've never tested it....I will be testing it on every switch I install from now on and I'll let you know what I find!! My understanding is that that switch is connecting and disconnecting the posts with a conducting metal inside of the switch, pretty straight forward, but now I have to test it to find out myself!
Hey Tom, long time watcher of every video that you’ve ever put out and just want you to know, I really appreciate all the hard work that you put into them. It inspired me to build my own pontoon and currently just finished putting the plywood on it. if you get a chance I would love for you to get a hold of the new railing kits from pontoon stuff and do some videos with them as well as their newest console that has the side mount for the controls. It will be a couple months before I’m at that stage, but I’m interested to see how it turns out, and if you like them. I already have my railing kit that I got from them from their original prototype run. I took your advice and got a hold of them and I probably got one of the last sets so I’ve just been sitting on it till I’m ready. Thanks for all that you do. Also, another great idea that I believe some viewers would be interested in is to do a aftermarket transom mount fuel tank to see the fitment and installation of that. If I come up with any more ideas, I’ll let you know. Lol. Thanks, Wes.
Thanks so much for watching the channel and for the kind words and appreciation. It's a lot of time spent filming, editing, responding to comments and questions...but something I still love doing so I hope to continue it for the long haul. I will 100% be doing videos on the railing kits as soon as they start shipping. I think I have 5 sets on order already for upcoming boats. The first couple I have to do some modifications to, so those won't have detailed videos (because it'll be totally unique to these boats). I will definitely be covering that new console as well. I'll be installing my first of those soon, and will film the second one once I have my steps figured out and best ways to explain it. I completely understand the transom mount tank install request...there aren't a ton of aftermarket options out there for them though, and they're very pricey. Personally I would never install one on my own boat...my friend who is a marine mechanic at a local shop has only ever seen them cause problems with water in the fuel. The seals at the sender eventually rot and crack from the wet/dry of being where water can constantly be splashing, and then let water into the fuel. A water/fuel separator is an absolute MUST, and I'd even go with one with a viewing window at the bottom with a drain to keep a very close eye on it. I always appreciate the suggestions, it often gives us ideas that we haven't thought of yet!
Great video, you should make a schematics
Thank you. I'm sure we'll do another video in the future as this topic is always popular, and I'll be sure to include a schematic!
Thanks Tom! Can't tell you how many times I've recommend this switch to fellow boaters, going to share this video to all of them. :)
Thank you! And thanks for sharing the video. I think a lot of folks get nervous about a switch like this not understanding the simplicity of it. I can see where it would be scary dealing with all that power going through the switch as it's a critical part....but with this kit you get everything you need and don't have to worry about setting it up wrong as long as you follow the steps.
Agreed!
@@tomspontoons
Simple? Yep! Funny, I’ve watched all your videos (and some I don’t think you’ve produced yet) and I’m sitting here planning the wiring for my houseboat. Update; I’ve managed to locate some used 36’ pontoon ex-water taxis that I’m going to be using. Some are tri-toons! My cabin just went from 16’ to 20’. YAY!
Oh yeah, electrical; because I’m planning to cruise the Canadian side of the Great Lakes and canal system, I’m building in both a solar and dual fuel generator for house 110 and 12v power and keeping the electrics for the boat separated, cuz I like the idea of preventing surprises on retuning to the boat and having multiple redundancy.
So my isolation requirements require a bit more wire but it’s basically what you’ve shown in this and the other isolating switch videos.
Thanks!
@@luisaraujo4708 I am careful to avoid saying that anything is "easy"...."simple" better describes a lot of things that aren't overly complicated, and can be done by someone who isn't necessarily an expert in the field. Like changing a tire on your car. Not complicated, and most anyone can do it, but not necessarily easy to everyone out there.
You've got the most unique setup in terms of boat wiring because it also has to be wired as a house. Sounds like you're on the right track with your plan, and WHAT A SCORE on those 36' pontoons!!!
I like to add dielectric grease to the terminals for the switch before installing. It will be buried and never looked at, adds a bit of protection from corrosion.
This switch is made by marineco good quality switch like perko or sea choice not the cheap ones sold on jungle site that burn up.
That definitely can't hurt! Up here in freshwater it doesn't tend to be an issue once installed with the tinned copper terminals. However, if I were anywhere near saltwater with it I would be adding dielectric grease to every single connection!
I just noticed the knock-off switches on Amazon and thought to myself..."golly people are going to try to save a buck and order these. There are just some things that aren't worth trying to save money on."
@@tomspontoons my switches are mounted in bildge area, backside of the panel. So all you see is the knob out in front. The bildge area has just enough moisture now and then that I had corrosion on positive battery terminals and switch. This is in freshwater. My trolling motor batteries also suffer from this, they are mounted below deck, lack of airflow is caused it both on my leads and now lithiums. Guess if it's installed surface mount air is keeping it dry.
Those cheap switches will melt if anything than 40 amps is pulled thru it, my little 30hp motors pull 60a for the starter the bigger motors pull 90-110a. I melted one, the contacts where thin. Saving 20$ on critical item was not worth it.
Suppose it has a place if you use it knowing this.
@@omieyouknowme And most people don't know those details and would melt a cheap switch trying to save that $20. You don't ground to the boat frame at all do you? I just haven't seen too much corrosion like that on boats I've worked on. I've seen them get corrosion on battery terminals from time to time on motors, but it's usually 20 year old motors that have been hooked to the same battery for the last 10 and never cleaned!
@@tomspontoons all my grounds are at battery terminal and one ground from battery to frame of boat. My other boat I run all grounds to a common bus bar that is tied to battery. Both of them are inside bildge areas. the only time I have had issues is if there is standing water in bildge for a few weeks.
I make sure bow is pointed up during storage so it drains everything. This has made a huge difference. Kills me when I see boats stored level then the slightest movement water is pouring out. Or when operators leave the drain plug in for storage or transport
@@omieyouknowme Personally I would lose the ground to the frame of the boat. I've never used them and a friend who's a marine mechanic swears against them. I eliminated one on a boat I restored last year and their phantom draw went away...they'd have a dead battery constantly. In my friend's words..."10 out of 10 do not recommend grounding to the frame". I know it's a battle of opinions on the topic/method, but I've had good luck following his advice!
Thanks Tom . You told me you were going to post this video and I'm going to order the switch using your code today.
Perfect! I've got a video coming next week as a follow up that shows how to install the Guest brand 4 position battery switch, for the folks out there with all sorts of electrical accessories and add-ons running two batteries. For a one battery boat I feel that this on/off switch is a must!
What many do not realize is any USB outlet plug has a "phantom load" and will eventually drain you battery even if nothing is connected to it.
Yep, most have a little indicator LED that’ll stay on. That’s why I run my chargers to a switch on the dash panel AND go with a battery switch, either on/off or four position depending on the boat.
Going back to the Crest Tritoon build, how did you get the nuts on carriage bolts! Mine has no opening without taking plywood off. I have a 2000 25’ Crest and a center toon.
There’s a specific 3” deck bolt sold by pontoon stuff for Crest pontoons.
Installing Pontoon Deck w/ 3" Deck Bolts - CREST PONTOON DECKING
th-cam.com/video/syNwS4-aupU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Tom! Hey, pontoonstuff has been out of stainless steal cup holders with RGB for quite sometime. I wanna order like 10 of them. Any alternatives you recommend? I want RGB and must be stainless steal, high quality. Thnx!
Shoot me an email to remind men to check (tomspontoons@gmail.com). I think I have a decent amount of their stainless LED cup holders. The other style I've used was from Amazon and had ring lights around the entire, so they glow even with a cup in the middle. The ones we've installed from Pontoon Stuff were great, but if there's a cup in the holder the light is covered.
Tom, I have a 12 V starter and a 12 V deep cycle house battery. Can I wire them in parallel and use just one on/off switch (which I have) to turn them both off and on or do I need a three-way switch?
I don’t see why you couldn’t simply run them in parallel and the positive to a on/off switch. Just be sure they’re the same battery type (lead acid, lithium, AGM, etc) as mixing types can cause problems.
Hi watchin from new zealand is it possible to use this switch from 24volts to 12volts as an auxillary battery? Tnx mate!
To my knowledge you cannot mix battery types nor voltage supplies. When running on both you are putting the batteries in parallel where they MUST be at the same voltage. I imagine doing what you’re asking would cause catastrophic failure.
Hello Sir
I’m putting my boat back together and I can’t remember which cable is forward and which one is reverse. One has a h and the other one has a m or w. How can I tell which one is which?
Are you referring to your outboard shift cable? There is only one cable for shifting and the shift mechanism will either pull or push it into and out of gears. To determine which is the shift cable start with the shifter in neutral, then shift into forward. The first cable to move is your shift cable. If you continue into forward with throttle then you will see the throttle cable move.
@@tomspontoons
My shifter has 2 cables on it one has an H and the other one has a w or m on it
I’ve never seen a control box that has two shift cables coming out of it. Always one shift and one throttle. Likewise the motor only has one place for the shift cable to hook to. What make, model, and year of outboard?
@@tomspontoons
It is a shift and throttle cable. I’m sorry just wasn’t thinking.
Can you tell me which side the shift cable goes on. I’m lost. I took it apart 3 months ago then got sick and was sick for over 10 weeks so I’m finally getting to put it back together and I don’t remember what went where
@@Zforce800Trail Glad we got it sorted out for you! Great chatting with you.
I’ve seen battery switches with .1 - .3 amps of current draw… WHILE OFF. Has anyone else noticed (or checked) this?
I’ve not tested this switch…. It I’ve tested (3) BlueSea and had this…. Maybe it was bad luck… but it was absolutely drawing power when it shouldn’t.
To my knowledge that would be a faulty switch, but I've never tested it....I will be testing it on every switch I install from now on and I'll let you know what I find!! My understanding is that that switch is connecting and disconnecting the posts with a conducting metal inside of the switch, pretty straight forward, but now I have to test it to find out myself!
C4TT!
Thanks!