Sorry all for the terrible color and tint in the video and for the red eyes. I was have camera issues and it was also 3am in the morning when I recorded. Thanks for being here as always. :)
I made 100% soy candle, amazing cold throw, zero hot throw. I added Vybar, no cold throw, improved hot throw. I crossed over to the dark side… I made 70% paraffin to 30% soy, no cold throw, decent hot throw but the wicks were now to large 😢 I ordered parasoy and am just running tests and I pray that… there is a god (the god of hot and cold throw!!!😂). Great videos, that you make, thank you 🙏🏻 . It’s like the rocky road to nowhere candle-making… esp when I thought it would be glamorous 🎉😂❤
this is the best info on the internet.iam currently typing key notes from all your videos for refference(hope you never find out you could had wrote a best selling book instead that would go for 19.95 at barnes and noble!)
I am new to candle making, as a hobby. I love chemistry and just fascinated with how complex a process candlemaking is. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Hi I'm Tonia with Heaven Sent Candle... Candle with God's Word!!! I've only been making candles for a couple of months but I'm learning more and more every day. Thanks for the info!
I needed this..almost wanted to give up.z but You really hit a lot of points and it encouraged me... and I’m on the verge of a breakthrough.. I realize watching you has help me immensely! Thank you Wade!!!!
Just wanted to say, I really appreciate all your videos. Thank you for taking the time and effort for each and every video, you are a great resource for those of us getting into candle making for the first time. Can't thank you enough!
One thing I might point out too, is to inspect your glass jars for imperfections, like small cracks. When burning the candle, the jars will get hot and the jar imperfection can cause that small crack into a larger crack, or break the glass. Which in turn can be dangerous.
Bravo Wade!! 🙌🏼 Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. During testing the last couple days I noticed when I walk by the candle and create a breeze it would smoke a little. It bothered me and I almost failed it until I got confirmation from you that its the draft causing it, not a wicking issue. I feel much better. ☺️
Candle toppers are awesome I had a really nice one that I unfortunately dropped, need to find a replacement. I was looking for your link to them but couldn't find it. Great video, part 1 & 2! Thank you for sharing
I could have missed this in part one, I have an issue with my candles cracking during cooling; using soy 464 with added candelilla wax...used heat gun to fix but it keeps coming back. I appreciate all your tips, Thank you.
Some waxes do thst more than others. Often from temperature shock. Mix in some lower melt point additives like coconut oil lol coconut wax. That may help as well.
Hi there I love your channel, I will be watching all your videos because I’m new to candlemaking and I am watching other videos to compare and just to see what others do and don’t but your videos I will be watching for sure
I’m having the hardest time with testing right now and it’s driving me crazy. I locked in on wicks, vessels, wax..everything. I made a few and tested, and they were perfect. I went to test the same ratio of everything, literally no changes made, and I have seriously black soot all around the top of my candle jar and a little ashiness in the melt pool as well. I snuffed the flame out, let it cool, and cleaned up the jar. I burned it again today and there was no soot at all. I was thinking that particular wick was just off, but it performed beautifully today 🤦🏻♀️ Back to the drawing board 😅 I’m loving the finished candles I’m creating, but this testing is giving me a complex, hahaha.
Ha. Yep! Testing can be tedious and frustrating and sometimes make no sense. Usually what you are explaining can be causes by a draft... or a tiny sinkhold or iar pocket in the candle or just randomness. It is fire afterall. :) Thanks for being here! :)
Breaks out notebook for the BTB candle facts! :) I had a test 100% soy go black sooty when I was running a wick test it also smelled like plastic or something. I was overwicking just to see what would happen. Is that plastic scent : cheap fragrance OR burnt fragrance OR old soy? The only questionable items in the mix was the amazon soy 444 (old maybe?) and a glass jar that was from a non vetted seller but looked like ones I used before that worked just fine. Have you ever done a video on how to know if your wax batch is sour/bad or good to use?
😁 Thanks for your support as always! I would lean towards the oil or wick being the issue in your case. But your experiment helps prove the point.... even spy can have black soot. It's less to do with the wax than it is everything else. I would doubt the jars were a problem. Alsp, no I haven't done a video on of a wax has gone bad specifically. Buuuut... I do have a video on how to "Baseline Your Wax" which created a reference point to help you know if your wax has changed or if you got a specific batch that is different than your others. Here is link if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/WQrKUoLaBwM/w-d-xo.html
Again another great video. Sure do appreciate you taking time to share with us all this very valuable information. I wanted to find out your opinion regarding dried flowers added to candle wax? I'm seeing more and more dried flowers added to candles as well as wax melts. Would these be a fire hazard?
Yes some do it and I agree it looks nice. Personally, I wouldn't do it myself. In my opinion, it's just risking too much and not worth it. But we all have different opinions about this topic.
Thanks so much Wade. I’m currently having this issue with my HT. I’m using 6006 wax and a good quality oil from candle science (10%) I used a double wick, and I still can barely smell the candle.
@@BlackTieBarn I’m using the 8oz straight jar from candle science. 10% love spell F.O from candle science, and 2 HTP 73 wicks. I heated the wax to 180, and added my F.O at 160
Try the following.... 1) lower FO to 9% or 9.5% 2) heat wax to 190 3) add FO at 180-185 4) pour around 170 5) wait 3-5 days and test again. Also have others try it as well and get another perspective. We, as candle makers, often do not detect the fragrance in the air as much as others do. Also, love spell isn't always a super strong thrower. I hope some of this helps.. Good luck! :)
Hi Wade, Thank You for this great video. I am testing the square 12oz glass jar and it’s hard to get a even melted pool. It has been over 3 hours and still haven’t burn all around the jar. Little wax still stuck in the corner. 🤔🤔
Hi again! How many wicks are you using. Sqaute jars often need 2 or 3 wicks depending on the size. Thst being said... a tiny bit of hang up isn't the end of the world. It will often catch up further down in the jar. Buf if it doesnt..... it is probably too much hang up and need to wick up
@@noodleshead9596 Try a couple zinc 44-24s although i suspect you may need a size or two bigger on the zincs. You could try a couple Eco 4s maybe. I dont like CD, so I am just going to ignore those. Ha! You could try 3 zinc 44-24s. I have no idea how it will work. Never done that in those jars. But, worth a shot while testing :)
Hello BTB! Is there anything from stopping me literally dropping a few drops of fragrance oil on the top of a cured candle to give it an added boost of fake cold throw?
Hi Wade, love your videos as they are so informative and educational. I’m currently testing a candle using new oils from a very reputable supplier. First 2 burn tests CT and HT were totally amazing and flame great and steady, however, on my 3rd burn I noticed the flame bit to large, flickering up and down and HT very mild with 1 side of the jar fully melted but the other still has heaps of wax on the jar so it’s melting unevenly. FO is 11%, Kerasoy 4130 soy wax, jar size diameter 3 inch, height about 4 inches, wick HTP 126, melted wax at 187f mixed oil in at 140f. Any advice greatly appreciated. PS. This wax I’ve been using for 1 year at that FO ratio and all worked out perfectly. This is a lighter oil and new in my collection. I appreciate any advice you can give. Thank you. 😁🙏
Thanks for this! So i have had the same jars and wicks since we launched. I’m testing spray painted jars (same ones I’ve always used) and wax (464). They are all tunneling! I haven’t changed anything. Could it be related to the FO? I’ve never used this one before.
I’m struggling with liquid pooling at the bottom of the candle. I think it might be the fragrance oil but my candle math and pour temp are pretty accurate.
@@tiwaladeakinniyi-tayo1875 if you can get your hands on stearic acid or vybar, try adding 1%. That will help retain the oil. Without knowing the specific any wax you are using, I am not sure how much to can hold. Try nor to use more than 10% if you aren't already.
Hi Wade, I'm making beeswax container candles. The jar is 88mm wide so I purchased cdn wicks size 22 and 24. The 22 creates a 40mm burn pool and the 24 a 50mm pool. My mum brain can't work out how many wicks I should put in to create the 88mm burn pool. I'm looking for an approximate starting point.
It's a good question. Some people think that two wicks half the size works. But thst isn't how they work. 2 wicks of cdn 10 for example will generally create more heat then a cdn 20. So it really does take some experimenting. If it were me, I would probably start at two cdn 10 and adjust from there. I don't use that jar or wick much so I am just guessing. Hope it's close. Lol
Hi! First of all, thank you so much for all of your content. You have no idea how much you've helped me with candle making. I was wondering if you could help me with some doubts I have. Blends don't exist in my country, for example you can buy pure soy wax or pure paraffin, but not a mix of both. I want to make parasoy candles but I don't know if there is a special technique to mix them. I tried mixing them together while they melt (65% soy/35% paraffin), but I don't know if that is correct. Do you think that is enough, or do you have any tip for mixing waxes? Second, I wanted to know if soy or paraffin additives could be used in this mix I make. For example, vybar is made for paraffin wax, so is it ok to add it to the mix? Or adding a soy additive will help with the soy even though there is paraffin in the mix? I couldn't find vybar in my country though and I have the sweating problem with my candles (I found out that paraffin fragrance load is low and I made my candles with 35% paraffin so I believe that is the problem), so if there is any alternative you know to increase the paraffin fragrance load (I want to reach 8%) it would help me a lot. Thanks!♥
No problem. Thank you for being here! So, I can't give any specific measurements of how much paraffin and soy to use when blending. Most of it depends on the specific types of each you are using as well as your own experimentation and goals. I would just start with 50/50 and adjust from there. Have fun experimenting. There is no set rule to follow blending waxes. Also, yes.. you can add vybar to your blend. IT will help with some fragrance oil retention. It sounds like you are using pure paraffin which has a low FO load (usually around 3-5%) on its own. Adding vybar and combing with soy will get that % higher like 6%-9% range. Good luck!
Hello! I am using cotton wicks right now but I’ve had a few scents that aren’t burning evenly and I think I’m needing to size up in my wick because of the scent being a heavier scent but I don’t know which wick to go to?
Thank you Wade for both parts of The Common Candle Making Problmes series. They are very well done. I am struggling with drowing wicks with certain FO so this helped but I do have questions. Is it common for the flame to get smaller the longer the candle burns? I am having a hard time maintaining a good flame. I am currently burn testing a candle design with WW FO. I have increased the wick so much that when first lit the flame is robust and borderline overwicked in my opinion and now 2 hours in the flame is half the size and if it continues to decrease will be wimpy by hour three for sure. FO certainly play into this I am sure. I am also struggling with a FO - one you are familiar with Cracklin' Birch - can't wick it to save my life. Coconut Soy 10% FL and 8% FL no matter what wick type or size I use I have a wimpy flame within an hour. Is it possible that I have bad batch of wax that is contributing to these flame/wick problems?
Hey John! No problem! Yes, it is sometimes common for flames to weaken as they burn lower. Much to do with less oxygen further in the jar. I've never had an issue with the Birch oil. If try another batch of wax or reach out to NG to see if they've had any complaints with recent batch of Birch. I haven't had any issues though. Try CDN wicks if you haven't already
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you Wade! I will try a new batch of wax with the birch and see if that is it if not I will reach out to NG. CDN wicks are my baseline wick for Coconut-Soy and if they fail I will try HPSP and Premier. I want to give HTP a try but I only have discontinued inventory and don't want to nail it with one of those and then have to retest once the new HTP wicks come out. I will keep plugging away. Thanks again for all your knowledge sharing!
Hard to day. Most likely too much oil or it wasn't incorporated enough. If you ate using fragrance oils meant for candle making, the oils themselves should be fine. Double check the max load your wax can handle
Some of my candles burn great the first time but the second burn I end up with big flames and a lot of smoke and soot coming off the flame….how can I try to fix this?
Hi BTB! Awesome info!! I would like to ask you a very important question. I've just made my first large batch of candles and I've had some issues where I've had to fix the tops on some of them. However, now that I've resolved that issue, some of them are sweating! This is weird to me as some are behaving really well but only about a handful are sweating! Are there any tips or tricks I can try to stop or at least reduce the sweating before selling them? Thanks! 🙏🏽 *side note: I used the manufacturers recommended 10% fo with coconut-soy wax and mixed for a full 3mins.
It depends. Is the sweating oil seeping out or just wax sweat? Coconut is such a soft wax that it commonly sweats even at just room temperature or above. Coconut oil for example is a liquid at room temp. So waxes with coconut often sweat from heat or humidity and it doesn't take much. If this is your cause, you can reduce amount of cocout wax, experiment with new waxes, try adding 1% vybar as a hardener. If it's from the oil.... certain oils can cause this depending on their density. If only a couple specific oils are doing it, it may just be that oils. If so, back off the load on that oil and also add at hotter temp
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you so much for your response. I think that it is the oil as opposed to the wax that is sweating out. I added at around 175 for each scent but it’s not only one fragrance that is sweating. So say I poured 10jars of two scents (total of 20 candles), two or three candles from each of the two scents would sweat while all others are fine. It’s weird lol.
@@Nightnurse3322 Do you happen to know which order those particular sweaters were poured during that batch? Meaning, were they first couple or the last couple? I have seen this happen with the last couple being poured out of the pitcher. The reason could be that the oil had settled to the bottom a bit in the pouring pitcher. So those last couple or first couple get more oil than the rest and it seeps out. If this is a possibility, I would add your oils hotter so they blend better (try 180-185.). Keep stirring well as usual. And on your next couple of batches, note which order the jars were poured in. Number them before hand if that helps. Then, let them sit and check on them after several days. See if that tells you anything more. Hope this helps some!
@@BlackTieBarn i have no idea of the order. However, numbering them is an excellent idea. I will definitely try that method. Thank you so much for all of your help! 🙏🏽
Hey Wade, in your experience, with soy, for heavy bakery scents like blueberry, pumpkin etc would you go lower than 6% fragrance oil? I know ultimately the answer is going to be...depends, and test, test test..but in your case where would you start as far as the percentage?
Great question! I tend to start all my heavy potent oils around 6% and increase if needed. The lighter scents I start at 8-9% You are right about testing and that it depends, but that is my standard practice. Another option is to simple start everything with 8% for example and then increase or decrease from there as needed.
Hi Wade, I keep referring back to these two videos when I have an issue. One is that one one of my candles the cold throw is almost non existent. I’ve used 464 and the cold throw was great but hot throw no so much. So recently I tried 2 other waxes Kerasoy 4130 and EcoSoy Advance. In order to test I used the manufacturer’s recommendation on percentage of FO and then made same candle but reduced the percentage of FO and again cold throw is almost non existent. I’m testing one candle now and the hot throw is amazing. Is there anything else I can do to increase the cold throw scent? I’d welcome any suggestions. Thank you. Sue from Australia.
Not really. Cold throw is a result of the wax more than anything. Some waxes are great with CT and others not as much. If you are heat gunning the top. Thst won't help. Sorry try to limit doing that if possible. And careful doing it
@@BlackTieBarn thank you Wade. I’m so disappointed in that when testing this candle the last 2 days the hot throw is the best I have ever achieved with this recipe yet cold throw is none existent.
Hi Henrietta! I am assuming you bought vybar 260 since C3 is a low melt point container wax. The typical usage is 1/4 to 1/2 tsp per pound of wax. Start there and adjust if needed. Hope that helps!
@@BlackTieBarn Wade I what to add vybar to C3 cause supplier suggests 6% fragrance load if you want to add more they suggest to add additives I’m assuming they mean Vybar. Do you think it’s a bad idea?
Hi, I love your videos, you’re extremely helpful. I have a question, since htp wicks are discontinued, I’ve been using Cd wicks (16 oz straight sided jars, with cd 12, igi 6006 and joy wax depending on fo) I have the perfect cold and hot throw but I’m not crazy about the flame height. I keep all the wicks short when ready to light and even with the most precise instructions I feel like some may not listen. Do you have any advise on maybe a more suitable wick? I also have this problem with medium sized wooden wicks
Hey Nikki. First, thanks so much for the nice feedback. I appreciate that and feel free to share the channel. As it grows, I get new topics and ideas and we get better engagement. Anyway, I am not a fan of CD for similar reason as you cplus they soot/smoke more than others. While waiting on htp for 6006, try premier 700 series )if you already have some... they are short right now as well). Zinc core work pretty well in 6006 too and you can also use LX. I would prefer both of those to CD personally.
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you so much! I will be on the lookout for the premier wicks then. I really hope I’m able to achieve a similar hot throw without all the extra issues that cd wicks have. I’ll let you know how my testing goes.
I've been making 100% soy wax candles, with just a 6% fragrance load. I'm getting these oily looking swirls in my candle (not like sweating, the wax itself is swirly) I feel like I'v tried everything:( adding the fragrance oil at a lower/higher temperature, mixing more (this just caused air bubbles in my candles) , and pouring at different temperatures. I about ready to give up. Do you have any idea what's going on?
What type of soy wax is it. Soys being mostly organiz materials are going to have some variance. And the swirls are most likely the oils and fats. Your best option is stirring the heck out of it all the time. Or trying other Soy options. But the beat bet if it's troublesome is to try some parasoys or other blends if not opposed to it
The wick setter or the wick holder? Wick setter... ugh. Not really sure. It was so long ago. Lol. You may have to Google that one. Wick holder. - www.acandleco.com
@@BlackTieBarn it's the white thing that sits on top of the candle containers to hold the wics in place kinda like the popsicle sticks but its white round thing you use to keep the wics in place from moving around
by the way i really need to know if your using vybar in your pro 600 wax for example in your crackling birch i bought from you.it has such hot throw i dont know if your fo is just real strong or its vybar.do you mix your own cracklin birch or is it bought ready to go.i hope not to hit on any trade secrets just trying to learn on anything thing you can offer.hope you dont get tired of my wanting to learn lol
Lol no worries. No vyvar in that one at all. I use vybar when needed to help with fo, color, wicking etc. But I rarely have used it so far with pb600 in that jar
Not really. Only if crazy high over 200 degrees and for extended periods of time. It's part of the candle making process to add oils to hot wax. So wouldn't worry about it
Lol. I'm assuming you are referring to my terrible eyes and complexion in this video? Yeah... , late night when recording (3am), lighting issues, and was sick that week. Was hoping for better results myself. :/ I didn't realize how bad it was until it was done. smh
![14 Common Candle Making Problems [Part 1] | Troubleshooting Candle Issues and How to Deal With Them](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GTq7oKtCtXI/mqdefault.jpg)
![14 Common Candle Making Problems [Part 1] | Troubleshooting Candle Issues and How to Deal With Them](/img/tr.png)
Sorry all for the terrible color and tint in the video and for the red eyes. I was have camera issues and it was also 3am in the morning when I recorded. Thanks for being here as always. :)
Appreciate the commitment to get the video done. Didn’t even notice the red eyes I was so involved in the content. Be well.
I made 100% soy candle, amazing cold throw, zero hot throw. I added Vybar, no cold throw, improved hot throw. I crossed over to the dark side… I made 70% paraffin to 30% soy, no cold throw, decent hot throw but the wicks were now to large 😢 I ordered parasoy and am just running tests and I pray that… there is a god (the god of hot and cold throw!!!😂). Great videos, that you make, thank you 🙏🏻 . It’s like the rocky road to nowhere candle-making… esp when I thought it would be glamorous 🎉😂❤
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this is the best info on the internet.iam currently typing key notes from all your videos for refference(hope you never find out you could had wrote a best selling book instead that would go for 19.95 at barnes and noble!)
Ha! Maybe some day! Thank you. :)
I am new to candle making, as a hobby. I love chemistry and just fascinated with how complex a process candlemaking is. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
No problem! Thanks Elly :)
Hi I'm Tonia with Heaven Sent Candle... Candle with God's Word!!!
I've only been making candles for a couple of months but I'm learning more and more every day. Thanks for the info!
That's great Tonia! :) Thanks for being here! :)
I needed this..almost wanted to give up.z but You really hit a lot of points and it encouraged me... and I’m on the verge of a breakthrough.. I realize watching you has help me immensely! Thank you Wade!!!!
You are welcome. Just keep on chugging along. You'll get it! Just be patient and try not to over think it. :)
Just wanted to say, I really appreciate all your videos. Thank you for taking the time and effort for each and every video, you are a great resource for those of us getting into candle making for the first time. Can't thank you enough!
Thanks so much
You are a blessing to the candle community. Thank you for sharing this information selflessly.
Thank you so much.:)
One thing I might point out too, is to inspect your glass jars for imperfections, like small cracks. When burning the candle, the jars will get hot and the jar imperfection can cause that small crack into a larger crack, or break the glass. Which in turn can be dangerous.
Yes! Great point!
So yeah i watched the part 1.. and im here.. how can someone be so smart*✨
🤣 I hope you are enjoying them. Thanks for watching them. I appreciate it. :) ❤
Bravo Wade!! 🙌🏼 Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. During testing the last couple days I noticed when I walk by the candle and create a breeze it would smoke a little. It bothered me and I almost failed it until I got confirmation from you that its the draft causing it, not a wicking issue. I feel much better. ☺️
Yep. No worries there. :)
@@BlackTieBarn and smoot 😂 my favorite part of the video! 😁
😆
Great video thanks for sharing! “ cannibal supplies” lol 😂
😁🤣😅 yaaaaaah. Lol
Candle toppers are awesome I had a really nice one that I unfortunately dropped, need to find a replacement. I was looking for your link to them but couldn't find it.
Great video, part 1 & 2! Thank you for sharing
No problem. And yes... its amazing the difference toppers make
Thanks 💖 and God bless you 💖
❤️
I could have missed this in part one, I have an issue with my candles cracking during cooling; using soy 464 with added candelilla wax...used heat gun to fix but it keeps coming back. I appreciate all your tips, Thank you.
Some waxes do thst more than others. Often from temperature shock. Mix in some lower melt point additives like coconut oil lol coconut wax. That may help as well.
Thank you! I was about to give up today. You are very inspiring and encouraging
🥰 thanks Luna!
Thank you, Wade, for this 2 part series. Good info to have as I’m starting out.
No problem! Thanks for being here
Sending love from philippines....great video and so much information...😘
Thanks so much
Great information
Glad you think so!
A wealth of knowledge... thanks so much!
You're welcome! :)
Thank you so much! Your videos are so informative!
Thanks Crystal!
Wow... I'm learning so much from you ! Thank you !
You are welcome. And thank you Nancy!
Hi there I love your channel, I will be watching all your videos because I’m new to candlemaking and I am watching other videos to compare and just to see what others do and don’t but your videos I will be watching for sure
Thanks so much Bella. Good luck!
amazing inspiring video makes me feel im not alone. also, love the quotable quotes in every video 🤭
❤️🤗 thank you!
I’m having the hardest time with testing right now and it’s driving me crazy. I locked in on wicks, vessels, wax..everything. I made a few and tested, and they were perfect. I went to test the same ratio of everything, literally no changes made, and I have seriously black soot all around the top of my candle jar and a little ashiness in the melt pool as well. I snuffed the flame out, let it cool, and cleaned up the jar. I burned it again today and there was no soot at all. I was thinking that particular wick was just off, but it performed beautifully today 🤦🏻♀️ Back to the drawing board 😅 I’m loving the finished candles I’m creating, but this testing is giving me a complex, hahaha.
Ha. Yep! Testing can be tedious and frustrating and sometimes make no sense. Usually what you are explaining can be causes by a draft... or a tiny sinkhold or iar pocket in the candle or just randomness. It is fire afterall. :)
Thanks for being here! :)
Thank you, GREAT information.
No problem! :)
Breaks out notebook for the BTB candle facts! :) I had a test 100% soy go black sooty when I was running a wick test it also smelled like plastic or something. I was overwicking just to see what would happen. Is that plastic scent : cheap fragrance OR burnt fragrance OR old soy? The only questionable items in the mix was the amazon soy 444 (old maybe?) and a glass jar that was from a non vetted seller but looked like ones I used before that worked just fine. Have you ever done a video on how to know if your wax batch is sour/bad or good to use?
😁 Thanks for your support as always!
I would lean towards the oil or wick being the issue in your case. But your experiment helps prove the point.... even spy can have black soot. It's less to do with the wax than it is everything else.
I would doubt the jars were a problem. Alsp, no I haven't done a video on of a wax has gone bad specifically. Buuuut... I do have a video on how to "Baseline Your Wax" which created a reference point to help you know if your wax has changed or if you got a specific batch that is different than your others. Here is link if you haven't seen it:
th-cam.com/video/WQrKUoLaBwM/w-d-xo.html
Good to know I’m not the only one with my notebook out when BTB video is on. 📝
Thank you Wade!
No problem!
Again another great video. Sure do appreciate you taking time to share with us all this very valuable information. I wanted to find out your opinion regarding dried flowers added to candle wax? I'm seeing more and more dried flowers added to candles as well as wax melts. Would these be a fire hazard?
Yes some do it and I agree it looks nice. Personally, I wouldn't do it myself. In my opinion, it's just risking too much and not worth it. But we all have different opinions about this topic.
Thanks so much Wade. I’m currently having this issue with my HT. I’m using 6006 wax and a good quality oil from candle science (10%) I used a double wick, and I still can barely smell the candle.
What oil, jar, and wick are you using? Can you provide a bit more info on your process?
@@BlackTieBarn I’m using the 8oz straight jar from candle science. 10% love spell F.O from candle science, and 2 HTP 73 wicks. I heated the wax to 180, and added my F.O at 160
Try the following....
1) lower FO to 9% or 9.5%
2) heat wax to 190
3) add FO at 180-185
4) pour around 170
5) wait 3-5 days and test again.
Also have others try it as well and get another perspective. We, as candle makers, often do not detect the fragrance in the air as much as others do. Also, love spell isn't always a super strong thrower. I hope some of this helps.. Good luck! :)
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you so much. I will give this a try!
Hi Wade, Thank You for this great video. I am testing the square 12oz glass jar and it’s hard to get a even melted pool. It has been over 3 hours and still haven’t burn all around the jar. Little wax still stuck in the corner. 🤔🤔
Hi again! How many wicks are you using. Sqaute jars often need 2 or 3 wicks depending on the size. Thst being said... a tiny bit of hang up isn't the end of the world. It will often catch up further down in the jar. Buf if it doesnt..... it is probably too much hang up and need to wick up
@@BlackTieBarn it’s a 12oz square jar. I used two HTP 83. Igi 6006 wax. It is tunneling but I fixed with a heat gun. It’s a testing candles lol
Love "its a testing candle". :)
Try a couple 93s. Do you have any other wick types to test as well? Premier 700 or zinc wicks?
@@BlackTieBarn Yes. I got Zinc 44-24-18, Eco, HTP, CD. Should I use three Zinc wick on my candle? Thank you!!
@@noodleshead9596 Try a couple zinc 44-24s although i suspect you may need a size or two bigger on the zincs. You could try a couple Eco 4s maybe. I dont like CD, so I am just going to ignore those. Ha! You could try 3 zinc 44-24s. I have no idea how it will work. Never done that in those jars. But, worth a shot while testing :)
Hello BTB!
Is there anything from stopping me literally dropping a few drops of fragrance oil on the top of a cured candle to give it an added boost of fake cold throw?
Nothing technically stopping you. But it may be a hazard depending on how much you add. It could ignite when someone lights the candle
You are awesome!!!
Thanks. ☺
Hi Wade, love your videos as they are so informative and educational. I’m currently testing a candle using new oils from a very reputable supplier. First 2 burn tests CT and HT were totally amazing and flame great and steady, however, on my 3rd burn I noticed the flame bit to large, flickering up and down and HT very mild with 1 side of the jar fully melted but the other still has heaps of wax on the jar so it’s melting unevenly. FO is 11%, Kerasoy 4130 soy wax, jar size diameter 3 inch, height about 4 inches, wick HTP 126, melted wax at 187f mixed oil in at 140f. Any advice greatly appreciated. PS. This wax I’ve been using for 1 year at that FO ratio and all worked out perfectly. This is a lighter oil and new in my collection. I appreciate any advice you can give. Thank you. 😁🙏
Thanks for this! So i have had the same jars and wicks since we launched. I’m testing spray painted jars (same ones I’ve always used) and wax (464). They are all tunneling! I haven’t changed anything. Could it be related to the FO? I’ve never used this one before.
Yes FO can significantly affect wicking.
I’m struggling with liquid pooling at the bottom of the candle. I think it might be the fragrance oil but my candle math and pour temp are pretty accurate.
What temp are you adding the FO? And how much are you using along with wax type if you don't mind sharing.
@@BlackTieBarn I add at 175 and I use soy wax, I’m Nigerian so i don’t get the labeled kind of soy wax candlescience sells.
@@tiwaladeakinniyi-tayo1875 if you can get your hands on stearic acid or vybar, try adding 1%. That will help retain the oil. Without knowing the specific any wax you are using, I am not sure how much to can hold. Try nor to use more than 10% if you aren't already.
@@BlackTieBarn thank you so much 🙏🏽
Hi Wade, I'm making beeswax container candles. The jar is 88mm wide so I purchased cdn wicks size 22 and 24. The 22 creates a 40mm burn pool and the 24 a 50mm pool. My mum brain can't work out how many wicks I should put in to create the 88mm burn pool. I'm looking for an approximate starting point.
It's a good question. Some people think that two wicks half the size works. But thst isn't how they work. 2 wicks of cdn 10 for example will generally create more heat then a cdn 20. So it really does take some experimenting. If it were me, I would probably start at two cdn 10 and adjust from there. I don't use that jar or wick much so I am just guessing. Hope it's close. Lol
Hi! First of all, thank you so much for all of your content. You have no idea how much you've helped me with candle making. I was wondering if you could help me with some doubts I have. Blends don't exist in my country, for example you can buy pure soy wax or pure paraffin, but not a mix of both. I want to make parasoy candles but I don't know if there is a special technique to mix them. I tried mixing them together while they melt (65% soy/35% paraffin), but I don't know if that is correct. Do you think that is enough, or do you have any tip for mixing waxes?
Second, I wanted to know if soy or paraffin additives could be used in this mix I make. For example, vybar is made for paraffin wax, so is it ok to add it to the mix? Or adding a soy additive will help with the soy even though there is paraffin in the mix? I couldn't find vybar in my country though and I have the sweating problem with my candles (I found out that paraffin fragrance load is low and I made my candles with 35% paraffin so I believe that is the problem), so if there is any alternative you know to increase the paraffin fragrance load (I want to reach 8%) it would help me a lot. Thanks!♥
No problem. Thank you for being here!
So, I can't give any specific measurements of how much paraffin and soy to use when blending. Most of it depends on the specific types of each you are using as well as your own experimentation and goals. I would just start with 50/50 and adjust from there. Have fun experimenting. There is no set rule to follow blending waxes.
Also, yes.. you can add vybar to your blend. IT will help with some fragrance oil retention. It sounds like you are using pure paraffin which has a low FO load (usually around 3-5%) on its own. Adding vybar and combing with soy will get that % higher like 6%-9% range. Good luck!
Hello! I am using cotton wicks right now but I’ve had a few scents that aren’t burning evenly and I think I’m needing to size up in my wick because of the scent being a heavier scent but I don’t know which wick to go to?
Really no way to provide a specific answer unfortunately. Really just have to test and experiment
Thank you Wade for both parts of The Common Candle Making Problmes series. They are very well done. I am struggling with drowing wicks with certain FO so this helped but I do have questions. Is it common for the flame to get smaller the longer the candle burns? I am having a hard time maintaining a good flame. I am currently burn testing a candle design with WW FO. I have increased the wick so much that when first lit the flame is robust and borderline overwicked in my opinion and now 2 hours in the flame is half the size and if it continues to decrease will be wimpy by hour three for sure. FO certainly play into this I am sure. I am also struggling with a FO - one you are familiar with Cracklin' Birch - can't wick it to save my life. Coconut Soy 10% FL and 8% FL no matter what wick type or size I use I have a wimpy flame within an hour. Is it possible that I have bad batch of wax that is contributing to these flame/wick problems?
Hey John! No problem!
Yes, it is sometimes common for flames to weaken as they burn lower. Much to do with less oxygen further in the jar. I've never had an issue with the Birch oil. If try another batch of wax or reach out to NG to see if they've had any complaints with recent batch of Birch. I haven't had any issues though. Try CDN wicks if you haven't already
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you Wade! I will try a new batch of wax with the birch and see if that is it if not I will reach out to NG. CDN wicks are my baseline wick for Coconut-Soy and if they fail I will try HPSP and Premier. I want to give HTP a try but I only have discontinued inventory and don't want to nail it with one of those and then have to retest once the new HTP wicks come out. I will keep plugging away. Thanks again for all your knowledge sharing!
@@johnmcg9803 No problem at all! So far, my testing of the new htp wicks has gone well. Hopefully they don't end up being any/much different.
Which wax should I use for starting a candle business?
1 soy wax
2 paraffin wax or
3 soy and paraffin blend.
My candles had pools of oil at the bottom of the jars after settling. Do I need new oil?
Hard to day. Most likely too much oil or it wasn't incorporated enough. If you ate using fragrance oils meant for candle making, the oils themselves should be fine. Double check the max load your wax can handle
Some of my candles burn great the first time but the second burn I end up with big flames and a lot of smoke and soot coming off the flame….how can I try to fix this?
Is this after trimming the wick? Or not trimming? If not trimming..... that would be expected
Hi BTB! Awesome info!! I would like to ask you a very important question. I've just made my first large batch of candles and I've had some issues where I've had to fix the tops on some of them. However, now that I've resolved that issue, some of them are sweating! This is weird to me as some are behaving really well but only about a handful are sweating! Are there any tips or tricks I can try to stop or at least reduce the sweating before selling them? Thanks!
🙏🏽
*side note: I used the manufacturers recommended 10% fo with coconut-soy wax and mixed for a full 3mins.
It depends. Is the sweating oil seeping out or just wax sweat? Coconut is such a soft wax that it commonly sweats even at just room temperature or above. Coconut oil for example is a liquid at room temp. So waxes with coconut often sweat from heat or humidity and it doesn't take much. If this is your cause, you can reduce amount of cocout wax, experiment with new waxes, try adding 1% vybar as a hardener.
If it's from the oil.... certain oils can cause this depending on their density. If only a couple specific oils are doing it, it may just be that oils. If so, back off the load on that oil and also add at hotter temp
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you so much for your response. I think that it is the oil as opposed to the wax that is sweating out. I added at around 175 for each scent but it’s not only one fragrance that is sweating. So say I poured 10jars of two scents (total of 20 candles), two or three candles from each of the two scents would sweat while all others are fine. It’s weird lol.
@@Nightnurse3322 Do you happen to know which order those particular sweaters were poured during that batch? Meaning, were they first couple or the last couple? I have seen this happen with the last couple being poured out of the pitcher. The reason could be that the oil had settled to the bottom a bit in the pouring pitcher. So those last couple or first couple get more oil than the rest and it seeps out. If this is a possibility, I would add your oils hotter so they blend better (try 180-185.). Keep stirring well as usual. And on your next couple of batches, note which order the jars were poured in. Number them before hand if that helps. Then, let them sit and check on them after several days. See if that tells you anything more. Hope this helps some!
@@BlackTieBarn i have no idea of the order. However, numbering them is an excellent idea. I will definitely try that method. Thank you so much for all of your help! 🙏🏽
Hey Wade, in your experience, with soy, for heavy bakery scents like blueberry, pumpkin etc would you go lower than 6% fragrance oil? I know ultimately the answer is going to be...depends, and test, test test..but in your case where would you start as far as the percentage?
Great question! I tend to start all my heavy potent oils around 6% and increase if needed. The lighter scents I start at 8-9%
You are right about testing and that it depends, but that is my standard practice. Another option is to simple start everything with 8% for example and then increase or decrease from there as needed.
@@BlackTieBarn Thanks Wade. And as usual, thanks for the quality content you provide.
No problem!
Hi Wade, I keep referring back to these two videos when I have an issue. One is that one one of my candles the cold throw is almost non existent. I’ve used 464 and the cold throw was great but hot throw no so much. So recently I tried 2 other waxes Kerasoy 4130 and EcoSoy Advance. In order to test I used the manufacturer’s recommendation on percentage of FO and then made same candle but reduced the percentage of FO and again cold throw is almost non existent. I’m testing one candle now and the hot throw is amazing. Is there anything else I can do to increase the cold throw scent? I’d welcome any suggestions. Thank you. Sue from Australia.
Not really. Cold throw is a result of the wax more than anything. Some waxes are great with CT and others not as much. If you are heat gunning the top. Thst won't help. Sorry try to limit doing that if possible. And careful doing it
@@BlackTieBarn thank you Wade. I’m so disappointed in that when testing this candle the last 2 days the hot throw is the best I have ever achieved with this recipe yet cold throw is none existent.
Hi wade, I bought vybar from Aztec not sure how much to add to C-3 wax. Thanks Henriqueta
Hi Henrietta! I am assuming you bought vybar 260 since C3 is a low melt point container wax. The typical usage is 1/4 to 1/2 tsp per pound of wax. Start there and adjust if needed. Hope that helps!
@@BlackTieBarn Wade I what to add vybar to C3 cause supplier suggests 6% fragrance load if you want to add more they suggest to add additives I’m assuming they mean Vybar. Do you think it’s a bad idea?
Yes you can add vybar. If you want to try it, add about 1/4 - 1/2 tsp per pound and give it ago. :)
Kindly explain with sample photos
Will do on next one. Ty!
Hi, I love your videos, you’re extremely helpful. I have a question, since htp wicks are discontinued, I’ve been using Cd wicks (16 oz straight sided jars, with cd 12, igi 6006 and joy wax depending on fo) I have the perfect cold and hot throw but I’m not crazy about the flame height. I keep all the wicks short when ready to light and even with the most precise instructions I feel like some may not listen. Do you have any advise on maybe a more suitable wick? I also have this problem with medium sized wooden wicks
Hey Nikki. First, thanks so much for the nice feedback. I appreciate that and feel free to share the channel. As it grows, I get new topics and ideas and we get better engagement. Anyway, I am not a fan of CD for similar reason as you cplus they soot/smoke more than others. While waiting on htp for 6006, try premier 700 series )if you already have some... they are short right now as well). Zinc core work pretty well in 6006 too and you can also use LX. I would prefer both of those to CD personally.
@@BlackTieBarn Thank you so much! I will be on the lookout for the premier wicks then. I really hope I’m able to achieve a similar hot throw without all the extra issues that cd wicks have. I’ll let you know how my testing goes.
I've been making 100% soy wax candles, with just a 6% fragrance load. I'm getting these oily looking swirls in my candle (not like sweating, the wax itself is swirly) I feel like I'v tried everything:( adding the fragrance oil at a lower/higher temperature, mixing more (this just caused air bubbles in my candles) , and pouring at different temperatures. I about ready to give up. Do you have any idea what's going on?
What type of soy wax is it. Soys being mostly organiz materials are going to have some variance. And the swirls are most likely the oils and fats. Your best option is stirring the heck out of it all the time. Or trying other Soy options. But the beat bet if it's troublesome is to try some parasoys or other blends if not opposed to it
Where did you get your wic stabilizer at? The white one I see you use all time
The wick setter or the wick holder?
Wick setter... ugh. Not really sure. It was so long ago. Lol. You may have to Google that one.
Wick holder. - www.acandleco.com
@@BlackTieBarn it's the white thing that sits on top of the candle containers to hold the wics in place kinda like the popsicle sticks but its white round thing you use to keep the wics in place from moving around
Also I've tried the wooden wics but they wont stay light they keep blowing out on there own and there's no wind blowing on or near it
@@DarkPhoenix0722 okay yep. I have gotten them from a few places in the past. But lately have been from www.acandleco.com
by the way i really need to know if your using vybar in your pro 600 wax for example in your crackling birch i bought from you.it has such hot throw i dont know if your fo is just real strong or its vybar.do you mix your own cracklin birch or is it bought ready to go.i hope not to hit on any trade secrets just trying to learn on anything thing you can offer.hope you dont get tired of my wanting to learn lol
Lol no worries. No vyvar in that one at all. I use vybar when needed to help with fo, color, wicking etc. But I rarely have used it so far with pb600 in that jar
@@BlackTieBarn thank you
@@BlackTieBarn does 3022 have vybar?
So tunneling is Yankee Candles trademark.
Lol. Some of their waxes are high melt point mottling waxes. They require longer burns (like 6 hours)
What causes that bit of soot I have around my candles.
If you pour hot wax with fragrances. can the high heat burn the scent so it doesnt have a good throw
You are a great help! Thank you
Several things can. Usually too large of wick, wrong wick type, or too much FO.
Not really. Only if crazy high over 200 degrees and for extended periods of time. It's part of the candle making process to add oils to hot wax. So wouldn't worry about it
Ty!
👍👍👍🙏
😀
Damn, looks like we have another Armie Hammer here 😂
Lol. I'm assuming you are referring to my terrible eyes and complexion in this video? Yeah... , late night when recording (3am), lighting issues, and was sick that week. Was hoping for better results myself. :/ I didn't realize how bad it was until it was done. smh
@@BlackTieBarn nah. You said cannibal! I would never comment on your appearance :-)
@@chrisr9764 Oh... haha! That. Yes.... lol