150 degree pour temp is a good baseline. When you decrease your room temp, increase your pour temp. If you use tins like me, the tins hold heat better so you can actually decrease the pour temp slightly. I personally work in a space at 68 degrees and pour tins at 145. I also find that pouring about 60% of your candle, letting them cool, then repouring to fill helps with holes a bit.. hot throw seems best when the fragrance is added at around 190 and stirred like crazy for about 2 minutes. After, let it sit and cool to about 145-150, stir gently to release and possible air bubbles and pour. Not a one method fits all, but get mostly great results from it.
Hello there! Just Just after i saw this video my sister call me from NY. She told me: The the French Lavender and the Burgundy Rose Soy Candles have a nice and strong Hot Throw. So, French Lavender and Burgundy Rose FO from Nature's Garden are perfect for 464 Soy Wax.
I’m with you on putting 464 in the trash. Yes it’s marketed to be great. That’s the best part of it. I think a lot of new candle makers have a hard time with it thinking it’s something they are doing vs it being the wax. I’ve tried a lot of wax on their own and mixed. I LOVE C6 the most then C3 I’d love to hear your opinion on them. You have helped so many of us. When I started I found a few videos from Jeff and Tim. Jeff is still around and idk Tim just disappeared. But then a year ago I found you. I can’t thank you enough watching your videos getting your thoughts they are truly priceless.
Wade...thanks so much for your insight in candle making. I am new to making candles; I just started the whole process as I am a soap maker but I wanted to add candles in my line up/business. I am truly appreciative of your knowledge in the candle making business. You're pretty good at what you do! So, THANKS SO MUCH!🥰🥰🥰
Your review/experience w/464 affirms much of what I've experienced - both good & bad. The value of your assessment is helpful b/c it removes the isolation of my own thoughts. Glad you pioneered the way till this whole TH-cam thing came along. Your struggle=my gain. Appreciated.
Based on my on-going testing, evaluation, experimenting and documentation... the hardest thing for me to sort out is frosting. I wouldn't call it "crystallization". They're more like micro bubbles. There's something about 464 that traps air hence the sink holes as well... Why? Well if you hit the frosted sides with the heat gun, all you see are bubbles rushing to the top. 2 factors I believe play part... 1st is the fact that the wax comes in flake form. As it melts, the flakes start binding while trapping the air gaps surrounding them, if that makes sense. 2nd more is incorporated while mixing the fragrance oils. Not much we can do about either one. All that said... I can pour perfect tops, zero wet spots, and very minimal to zero frosting using 3" wide glass jar candles in one pour. Tins? I could probably pour tins blindfolded lol... Here's my frosting issue though... MARBLED CANDLES!!! 464 doesn't like reheating. So a perfectly poured candle when reheated to spread the dye becomes a nightmare. I still have a few cards up my sleeve. If not I'll either quit trying marbles or switch the wax.
This video was great. I'm a beginner at candlemaking. I thought I was doing everything wrong. But since you listed the pros and cons, I know I'm doing something right. I get sinkholes/bubbles. After burning for few hours, when the wax solidifies the surface doesn't look smooth. Frosting oh man.. this one takes the cake. I thought my room was too cold and dry. I'm doing this in a room where it gets cold easily, and in the winter too.
We exclusively use 464, it is extremely temperamental. We have one fragrance that crystallises almost every time, our customers are ok with it so we aren’t overly concerned about it. I also find that some batches are far better than others. We had a box late last year where every candle was perfect and then there are boxes where both seems to work.
Yes.... the inconsistency and unreliability with soy is my number one issue. Even more so than HT issues which are more common as well. Completely understand what you are saying for sure
Kinda nervous lol. I just 50lbs of 464 to try it out. Really interested in candle making. Wish me luck! I'm also so grateful for your videos. I've learned so much! If I hit it big with candles maybe I will give you a cut for all the great information 😉
So I really don’t want to use this wax, however for my demographic/customer it would be a great wax to use (marketing). I’ve ordered some soy wax candles from other brands and there seems to be an underlying scent with this wax no matter how good the cold throw is. Maybe it’s my bias but I’ve smelled other brands that don’t use soy wax and it’s not a weird waxy smell. They just smell / look better. I have some soy wax candles that I haven’t lit yet and after a few weeks the tops look a hot mess. Very frosty and discolored. I saw this discussion on IG and there were soy wax users completely demonizing paraffin. It’s frustrating to see people run with ONE study. Anyway, I know a couple of retailers now carrying 100% soy candles and they look/smell much better than what I’ve ordered. Anyway Wade, thanks for the video! A true master of your craft!
I use 444 soy no additives and triple wick a large container with lx wicks. Great hot throw. I add fragrance at 150 and that seems to be the trick that works for me and the lx wicks. I cure for 3 weeks.
I haven't tried 464, but I've been experimenting with 444 for a few years which from what I've read is similar with a higher melt point. I've found using a vessel that's wider than tall is most effective for eliminating sinkholes and rough tops due to the nature of how soy wax cools. More so than varying pour temps etc. For example, I find 444 almost impossible to work with in 8 oz straight sided jars (narrower), yet in 8 ounce tins I get perfect tops every time pouring at 135. Also haven't noticed issues with hidden air pockets in the 8oz tins. Totally agree with the CD wick recommendation. Excellent video by the way!
Would love to see a video on how to properly wick a wooden wick candle and what it should look like flame height start to finish , burn rates, proper trimming between burns etc. Thank you
Thank you. I use 464. I love it! My candle business is 1 year old, doing great at markets. I can see I need to try other waxes as well. I purchased your candle making class. I’m super excited to learn more and grow my company. Kingdom Harvest Co. what is the best wax in your opinion for wax melts?
This video is Great! I've been working with that wax for years and I agree 100% with everything you said. The price of 464 soy is very high now, I found that buying two boxes (45lb) at Aztec you get the best deal considering the cost of shipping
Id like to say I've been making candles for a couple months. I've only used 464. I heat to 190 add fragrance of 8% and cool to 130 and pour. No heating my jars or anything and its cold here winter in midwest. Heater set to 65'. I have smooth tops 80% of the time. I heat gun the others and they all look beautiful. Never have any tunnels or issues other than what looks like unmixed fragrance on top.. I dont use any dye cause I dont want to deal with frosting. Not sure why everyone hates this wax. I've never used any other so I guess I cant compare yet. I've ordered fragrance from at least 4 diff companies and no matter what company or how much I stir the fragrance it never seems to fully mixes into the wax. I can see it like water mixed with oil. Candles burn nicely and last a long time and scent is great. I sell in person at a market not online. I do ok. But now I want to try other waxes to see what all this hype is about.
Learning a Ton from you. I'm making Soap and Candles. May need to Focus on one. I'm glad I watched Part 2.. before I just went out and bought.. I've got a soy blend coming.. going to start there. I pick up so many details from your videos and make notes. Keeps my mind busy and fascinated. Thanks.
GW464 sucks. I unfortunately live in the south and my candles melted during shipping in the summer. I switched to 444 bc it had a higher melt point but it still has issues. I now only use Coconut-Soy. 444 is much better than 464 IMO.
@@ccswhimsies I use 444 and have had great HT at 185°F as well as 135°F. Sink holes have been a natural thing, but I use CD series wicks and it helps a lot with the burn area. So far, have not experienced drown out. The downside is I always need to fix the tops with a heat gun, but I'll take that over poor HT.
I have found your videos very helpful, I wish I found you before I wasted a few kilos of paraffin wax, practice does make perfect candles, I'm not throwing the bad ones out I fix them the best I can and give them to my family.
Thank you for these videos of the 464 wax… I’ve been stressing and almost giving up doing candles… great information and food for thought… sooo much money in the garbage when it comes to this wax, now only if I can get my wick size right for my eight ounce tins.. still not much hot throw.. you’ve been great and I’ll keep watching your channel. 😊👏
Alternatively, Eco8 and Eco10 work great for me in 8oz tins. Also, LX wicks are very under-rated but if you happen to have a few, the LX-20 or LX-22 work even better than the CDs in my opinion.
I have tried everything on 464 . Tried low temperature pour and manufacturers recommended pour . I have not much success with hot throw . I have even cured for 1 month. I have tried stearic acid . So far coconut oil helped. I will continue to test until I come up a the best formula. I really think the soy wax now compared to 10 years ago , the now to me is not greatest. Cargill soy is what I used 10 years ago. I am not giving up for sure.
I would agree overall Lena. Still not my favorite but I had better success this time. And yes, I found many FOs that weren't strong.... the compatible ones though worked great!
Can’t wait to watch this! I started this journey with 464, and have tried several since then, including IGI 6006..(awful sink holes) and finally settled on C3. However, I have always used Problend 650 for wax melts, and finally bit the bullet, and ordered some Problend 400 to test out in candles. I have some curing, as we speak. I love Soy, but I have to say, I’m liking the PB 400 so far. It’s beautiful…a beautiful opaque, pearl white, and glass adhesion is phenomenal! I’m currently using CD series, so I’m not sure how the burn test is going to go. CT is great too…we shall see! Another one I tested and did not care for, was the C6. The coconut wax is also a very pretty wax, and HT was good, but I had a hard time wicking it.
@@BlackTieBarn I’ll be sure to let you know! I’ll be lighting them next weekend! So far, glass adhesion is beautiful, color is beautiful…just praying those CD’s don’t let me down! Lol
@@BlackTieBarn well, I’m burning one candle right now, and the HT is amazing…everything you’d expect a Problend 400 would be, but I can see that my CD wicks will not work with this wax. The soot is through the roof. I’m sitting here watching it, and there’s no way. 🤦🏻♀️ lol I’ve got a bag of ECO wicks, and a bag of HTP wicks that I’m going to try out, but I’ve never had any luck with them, but have only tried them in the C3. If they don’t work, I will go back to the website, and scroll through the reviews (I’ll do that anyway) and see if anyone mentions which wick they use, and have success with! I might have to wick down a bit too…I currently use the CD 18, with those large salsa jars, and is usually perfect, but it seems to be a bit much right now. HT all good! Used 10% Rose Petals from Candle Science, and that’s a pretty strong one, anyway. Any suggestions on wicks? Lol I’m now on the hunt for one! Lol
@@nikkibayo Hi Nioaka... I was going to mention you were probably going to have issues with CD wicks. But, Iknew you already had them wicked and ready to test so figured... who knows. :) CD wicks are hot and sooty with most waxes. Especially paraffin waxes. Also, PB400 can soot easily if not wicked properly (like most waxes to be honest). I wouldn't use ECO either. They will be similar to the CD. I would try HTP, zinc, and Premier 700 wicks. Also maybe throw in LX. :)
@@BlackTieBarn thank you!! I’m going to be placing orders today with Flaming (if they have any in stock) lol but, I’ll grab all of the ones you mentioned, in their small bag sizes, and try them all! I’m determined to find something! It might take some time, but the HT is amazing, and the glass adhesion is amazing, and overall, it’s a beautiful wax! If I can get the wicking down, I may just begin using it. Also, I must say, for it being a slab, it’s very easy to work with. I love my flakes, because it’s easier to measure, and whatnot, but this is so soft, you can cut it with a butter knife. Melts super quick, so a fairly low melt point, which I think is also contributing to having to wick down a little. But, thank you for the suggestions! I will have to keep you posted.
@@BlackTieBarn what would be your choice wax for soy candles? I know yours are organic blend...I currently use 4625 and 4630 in 8 oz tins and 11 oz tumblers and 9 oz straight...there are alot of black soot on jar walls..however I get a burn all the way to end almost every time and no wicks burning out...I am using lx 18 lx 20 wicks but just wondering if that is took much wick....my market seems to be a soy market I am realizing and some do not use paraffin based because of black smoke etc...so torn in that I would like to do soy but have spent so much time in a year perfecting the wax I am using now..any thoughts?
Hi Wade I'm a new subscriber to your channel I love your content in depth material that you cover very educational. Also love that you put all your product links in your description below is very helpful. I love your website looks amazing. If you don't mind me asking could you please tell me what Shopify theme you are using. If not I totally understand. Thank you very much for all your hard work and you put into your videos for viewers like me really do appreciate it keep up the great work.
Thank you Wade. As for other waxes we would like to see reviewed the top on my list is palm wax. With the loss of the CSN wick series, even the manufacturers don't seem to know what is best to use in their place. As for sink holes, inversion does seem to make a positive difference, but I would be interested to learn what you have to say on the matter. Thank you so very much! 🙋♀
I don't have a ton of experience with palm wax too be honest at least currently. Yes inverting helped a bit. I recall much about wicking but I'll add it to my list
Once again many thanks for sharing this info and creating this series. My candle focus is on natural waxes, so I would like to hear your feedback on coconut wax, 444, or ECO 135. Thanks
Awesome video! I have been testing 464 and your test results are spot on with mine. Pour at 145-150F in a room that is at 71-72F has been amazing for my candles. Beautiful smooth tops with no cosmetic issues. Now the way they look once the wax pool burns after the initial burn is a little unsightly. Do you have a favorite paraffin soy blend? I’m considering testing a cocosoy blend but they are a bit pricey!
Thank you for the feedback! If I had to choose a parasoy thst gives you some of the benefits of 464 thst you like.. minus some of the issues, I'd probably say joy wax or problend 600
Hi Wade thank you. I am currently binge watching your videos ive only been making candles going on a month. The first wicks I purchased were in the candle making kit on Amazon with no description of what they were. I then ordered some more and the same thing again. I did manage to get some CD wicks which turned out to be CD12 I believe. The problem is I'm in the UK and trying to find a good supplier that carries pro blend 600 wax and the premier 700 wicks. If you have any contact information I'd appreciate your advice. Thank again.
I started with Soy wasn't getting good ht. Switched to blend, now switched back to soy because adding vybar really helped(with 2 scents). They are better than the blend lol for the other one I will stay with the blend lol
The first video of the series I do not recall the cold throw I was hoping you can explain to me in more detail the cold throw and hot throwers also you had mentioned how room temperature helps the candles set up better do you have a video on that or do you have a recommendation for a room temperature and humidity?
Cold throw is just the scent when it's just sitting there not lit. Hot throw is while it's burning. Many says like 464 have great CT but harder to get good HT
Awesome videos! Nice explanations! Just a thing I wanna know. Ok, 464 is not good enough. Which wax is the best one for beginners? A certain type of soy? a blend? Thanks in advance!
Wade, I would like to see you test 4627. I am new to candle making and I have tried C3, 444, 6006 and 4627. I been testing 4627 and 6006 has of late and I am leaning to 4627. I currently still trying out HTP, CD, and LCS wicks. I would like to see your thoughts on it.
Hi Wade! Love the video (really all of yours)! I know you recommended CD wicks but what are your thoughts about ECO wicks in comparison? If you have a moment to answer this, I simply thank you for all you have done to help us.
Thank you so much for sharing your results! This mini series was very informative. :) In the case of colder ambient temperatures in winter, would you also recommend pouring hotter?
Yes I would. Or use a heater to heat up that area. But yes you will need to test, adjust, and accommodate for ambient temp changes for ideal results. If you are that picky like me. 😆
I truly appreciate your videos and the help. I did the ct and I still couldn’t smell the candle that well. I did .08 of fragrance. Maybe I’ll do ht next and do .10 of fragrances. Do you suggest any temp of melting and adding fragrance? I am going to use 150 pour like you said. Please let me know thank you
Hey Pete. I don't use a ton of 4y4 wax and my experience is limited to moderate testing so far. I have very mixes results with both CT and HT depending on what FO I use. My first suggestion would be to try several oils and stick to the ones that perform well. Other than that, I would reach out to supplier for assistance. As I get more time to test it I definitely will provide updated info though
Hello, Wade! Just wanna say that I just love your videos! I’m in the process of starting my candle journey, and, I’ve learned soooo much from you, but, I hafta say I’m a little nervous about beginning the whole process…kinda draggin’ my feet with a crap load of candle supples sitting in my Amazon cart. 🤪 I’m having a difficult time choosing my jars, as well…but, I do really like yours…would you mind sharing your vessel info? Thanking you kindly! 😊🌟
Thanks Susie. And yep, I've shared them many times over the course of my videos. The ones you are referencing are just 9oz straight sided jars and 8oz Mason jars. Most suppliers sell both (one of the reasons I like them). But.... right now...hardly anything has a good supply. Temporary supply problem due to pandemic. :/
@@BlackTieBarn Thank-you soooo much for such a prompt reply, Wade…you ROCK! Soooo, you use the straight-sided jars in your “Make candles with me”? They look so much nicer than ones I’ve looked at!!!
the math isn't working for me. i have a jar that weighs 7.95 oz 225 grams - empty, i'm going to use 10% FO. my math was that i would need 205 grams of wax, 20 grams FO for the total of 225. when my candle jar is filled right before the rim, the weights are 23.05 oz / 652 grams. way off! What am i doing wrong? Please help
I've experimented and have added 10% coconut oil to my formula. It has helped with a smooth surface top appearance especially when the candle is relit. I will say that when I started every soy wax was impossible to get except for 464 so that is what I started out with. I went through countless experiments to get my formula right. What soy wax would you recommend ?
100% agree. At this point is still probably recommend 464 or CB Advanced (hard to get right now). But for the most part i prefer blends. Also, I didn't talk about adding coconut oil or waxes to 464 in this video because I wanted to really focus on just using this wax alone (plus a few minor additives). But yes I plan to do more with adding other waxes, etc. Thanks so much for your reply!
I also add coconut oil & have also found it helps with smoother surface/appearance. Also using stearic acid to help everything bind. I am not "married" to this blend, but as a new candlemaker I'm going with this now as I start selling. This will be my base as I grow in experience, blends, etc.
Love this series on 464 & looking forward to the video on 6006. I've only been attempting to make candles properly for the last couple of months & apart from the weaker HT, 464 is working really well for me, thanks to your previous videos. I'm not very happy so far with 6006 though. I'm doing something wrong. I can repair the sinkholes & even put up with the poor adhesion but the sooting during the lower 3rd of the candle is horrendous so I've decided to start again. No colour & no fragrance, just the jar (3" dia x 4" h), a wick & wax & keep repeating until I can get a relatively clean burn with the right wick. I can then start adding other things 1 at a time. Does this sound like a reasonable plan of attack? Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Thanks Wade
Hey Steve. Yes.... it does sound like a good plan. But don't bee too hard on your yourself from the results so far. 6006 is a good. All around wax but it is very tough to wick. And only works well in a few jars in my opinion. You may experiment with some others like problend 600/joy wax, C3 or 464 with some coconut oil or mix it with your 6005 potentially. Just some other options to consider as well. :)
Thanks Julie. I’m in Australia so I’ll see if I can find a local supplier. I tried to order some Premier wicks from the USA but they want anywhere from $70 - $95 just for shipping for $30 in wicks. Little bit steep for me
@@stevem540i Yah I wouldn't pay that either, tough when you need international shipping. And i apologize, I am not familiar with suppliers much in Austraila.
I’ve also been wanting to buy that wicker machine you’re using, but I read so many negative reviews on Candle Science’s website about it, that I haven’t. I use the large, 16 ounce Salsa Jars for my candles, so I’m not sure if it would work?
The negative reviews are mostly people using it on jars it doesn't fit. That's not a product problem though. Lol. Works fine on my jars that it fits. I haven't tried a 16oz salsa Jar so I'm not too sure. :/
Hello. I am testing with soy wax 464.. how can I fix the surface defects ? It’s a perfect surface at the beginning. I burn it for 3 hours and it dries horrible. Can I mix my wax with something to make this problem go away?
I'll have to leave that to heavy 464 users. It's not a primary wax of mine so I really don't know off hand. I'll get back to you if I come across any specific ones in my testing though. There are just tons though
Hi deborah. I'm not a current export on 464, but in my experience I still hear the wax to manufacture recommendations which is the same for most waxes. Around 190. Add vybar first while wax is hottest so it melts down. Wick willvary drastically by your jar shape and size. And even your FO sometimes. But most using 464 use CD wicks.
I would do it much sooner myself. I wait until the candle is mostly cooled but not all the way. But there is definitely room for flexibility there. Every wax is a bit different. But sometime within the first few hours usually. Waxes that take longer to cool can wait longer
Hello there, I want to know it takes how many days for the candle to fully cure and get a smooth surface? Because now I have tried making a few candles and it all ended up getting a rough surface even though I follow your method and tried to pour at different temperature. Do you get a smooth surface right after the wax got into shape in the jar or you still have to wait for a couple of days? I hope you can really help me out, thank you.
It's mostly about the wax you're using. Letting ot sit longer won't help with smooth surfaces. If don't have a smooth surface after a day, you won't. Will need to fix with heat gun. Most soy waxes won't have a smooth surface unless you add something to it... coconut, paraffin, beeswax, some other oils or additives as we
@@BlackTieBarn thank you for replying me. What do you suggest to add to get a smooth surface? I saw local businesses here always promote they are using 100% soy wax and selling perfectly smooth surface. Is that possible?
@@HumanFactsUnveiled probably a marketing gimmick, although i dont know waht they are using so i cant say for sure. If they are adding something, then its not 100% soy. In fact, most "soy candles" are sold that way but they actually have small amounts of something else like paraffin, beeswax, coconut wax, etc. So if you are looking to completely eliminate frosting and ugly tops (permanently) you need to add something. You can sell them looking good by just using a heatgun and smoothing out the top. But it wont last after they burn it once.
@@BlackTieBarn thank you so much for your reply. Appreciate it a lot. I hope you'll be able to help more candle makers in the future. Thank you and god bless 🙏🏻
Just testing really and changing one at a time until you one. If a certain wick type works most the time.... its probably the oil. If the wick isn't working with hardly any of them, it's probably the wick
Beeswax didn't really help anything at all. Decrease the HT, hurt jar adhesion. Wasn't a benefit mostly. Coconut oil/wax helps a bit with surface issues, didn't really notice any difference in HT. But... I didn't include coconut in this video. As I was trying to keep it the base wax (mostly). I do plan on future videos with blending other waxes or ingredients though. :)
I like C6 okay..... but not enough to use. Limited testing as well. Not a fan of c3 for same reasons of 464 for the most part. Personal preference though
For sure! Parasoys are very popular. This video was meant to dive into 464 without blending with other waxes. (Most people using 464 don't want to add paraffin). But, yes... I will definitely be doing videos about blending too. Thank you! 😁
![[LIVE] MCHOICE & MINT AWARDS 2024 at TRUE ICON HALL, ICONSIAM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wMewUeT5nbY/mqdefault.jpg)
150 degree pour temp is a good baseline. When you decrease your room temp, increase your pour temp. If you use tins like me, the tins hold heat better so you can actually decrease the pour temp slightly. I personally work in a space at 68 degrees and pour tins at 145. I also find that pouring about 60% of your candle, letting them cool, then repouring to fill helps with holes a bit.. hot throw seems best when the fragrance is added at around 190 and stirred like crazy for about 2 minutes. After, let it sit and cool to about 145-150, stir gently to release and possible air bubbles and pour. Not a one method fits all, but get mostly great results from it.
💯 thanks for the input chris!
I’ve only made candles with 464 and this video hits everything. Excellent advice and probably the most informative on important notes for this wax.
❤️
Hello there! Just Just after i saw this video my sister call me from NY. She told me: The the French Lavender and the Burgundy Rose Soy Candles have a nice and strong Hot Throw. So, French Lavender and Burgundy Rose FO from Nature's Garden are perfect for 464 Soy Wax.
❤👍
I would like to see testing on 6006. Another great video! We hope Alan comes back soon! 🙃
Lol. Yah he won't be in all of them. Plus wait until you meet Thomas. 😆
I’m with you on putting 464 in the trash. Yes it’s marketed to be great. That’s the best part of it. I think a lot of new candle makers have a hard time with it thinking it’s something they are doing vs it being the wax. I’ve tried a lot of wax on their own and mixed. I LOVE C6 the most then C3 I’d love to hear your opinion on them. You have helped so many of us. When I started I found a few videos from Jeff and Tim. Jeff is still around and idk Tim just disappeared. But then a year ago I found you. I can’t thank you enough watching your videos getting your thoughts they are truly priceless.
Thanks Rosalina! Glad to help and appreciate the feedback! And yep.. I have both c3 and c6 planned as well. ;)
I love the section about, "don't change your entire process around to fit one oil".... just learning this after 10 million test.. 😅
Haha. Thanks!
Wade...thanks so much for your insight in candle making. I am new to making candles; I just started the whole process as I am a soap maker but I wanted to add candles in my line up/business. I am truly appreciative of your knowledge in the candle making business. You're pretty good at what you do! So, THANKS SO MUCH!🥰🥰🥰
You are so welcome
Your review/experience w/464 affirms much of what I've experienced - both good & bad. The value of your assessment is helpful b/c it removes the isolation of my own thoughts. Glad you pioneered the way till this whole TH-cam thing came along. Your struggle=my gain. Appreciated.
😁 np. I enjoy it!
Based on my on-going testing, evaluation, experimenting and documentation... the hardest thing for me to sort out is frosting. I wouldn't call it "crystallization". They're more like micro bubbles. There's something about 464 that traps air hence the sink holes as well... Why? Well if you hit the frosted sides with the heat gun, all you see are bubbles rushing to the top.
2 factors I believe play part... 1st is the fact that the wax comes in flake form. As it melts, the flakes start binding while trapping the air gaps surrounding them, if that makes sense. 2nd more is incorporated while mixing the fragrance oils. Not much we can do about either one.
All that said... I can pour perfect tops, zero wet spots, and very minimal to zero frosting using 3" wide glass jar candles in one pour. Tins? I could probably pour tins blindfolded lol...
Here's my frosting issue though... MARBLED CANDLES!!! 464 doesn't like reheating. So a perfectly poured candle when reheated to spread the dye becomes a nightmare. I still have a few cards up my sleeve. If not I'll either quit trying marbles or switch the wax.
This video was great.
I'm a beginner at candlemaking.
I thought I was doing everything wrong.
But since you listed the pros and cons, I know I'm doing something right.
I get sinkholes/bubbles.
After burning for few hours, when the wax solidifies the surface doesn't look smooth.
Frosting oh man.. this one takes the cake. I thought my room was too cold and dry. I'm doing this in a room where it gets cold easily, and in the winter too.
We exclusively use 464, it is extremely temperamental. We have one fragrance that crystallises almost every time, our customers are ok with it so we aren’t overly concerned about it. I also find that some batches are far better than others. We had a box late last year where every candle was perfect and then there are boxes where both seems to work.
Yes.... the inconsistency and unreliability with soy is my number one issue. Even more so than HT issues which are more common as well. Completely understand what you are saying for sure
Kinda nervous lol. I just 50lbs of 464 to try it out. Really interested in candle making. Wish me luck! I'm also so grateful for your videos. I've learned so much! If I hit it big with candles maybe I will give you a cut for all the great information 😉
That's exciting for you. Good luck Gina!!!
So I really don’t want to use this wax, however for my demographic/customer it would be a great wax to use (marketing). I’ve ordered some soy wax candles from other brands and there seems to be an underlying scent with this wax no matter how good the cold throw is. Maybe it’s my bias but I’ve smelled other brands that don’t use soy wax and it’s not a weird waxy smell. They just smell / look better. I have some soy wax candles that I haven’t lit yet and after a few weeks the tops look a hot mess. Very frosty and discolored. I saw this discussion on IG and there were soy wax users completely demonizing paraffin. It’s frustrating to see people run with ONE study. Anyway, I know a couple of retailers now carrying 100% soy candles and they look/smell much better than what I’ve ordered. Anyway Wade, thanks for the video! A true master of your craft!
Ty. Appreciate that. And yes I agree... it can be super frustrating. Lo
I use 444 soy no additives and triple wick a large container with lx wicks. Great hot throw. I add fragrance at 150 and that seems to be the trick that works for me and the lx wicks. I cure for 3 weeks.
Great! Thanks for the feedback. I'll be doing 444 video as well at some point. :)
I haven't tried 464, but I've been experimenting with 444 for a few years which from what I've read is similar with a higher melt point. I've found using a vessel that's wider than tall is most effective for eliminating sinkholes and rough tops due to the nature of how soy wax cools. More so than varying pour temps etc. For example, I find 444 almost impossible to work with in 8 oz straight sided jars (narrower), yet in 8 ounce tins I get perfect tops every time pouring at 135. Also haven't noticed issues with hidden air pockets in the 8oz tins. Totally agree with the CD wick recommendation. Excellent video by the way!
Thanks Bill. Yes, vessel shape and size makes a big impact on the cooling rate for sure!
Would love to see a video on how to properly wick a wooden wick candle and what it should look like flame height start to finish , burn rates, proper trimming between burns etc. Thank you
Sounds good. I have some woodwick videos but nothing quite that description. Thanks for the tip!
Thank you. I use 464. I love it! My candle business is 1 year old, doing great at markets. I can see I need to try other waxes as well. I purchased your candle making class. I’m super excited to learn more and grow my company. Kingdom Harvest Co. what is the best wax in your opinion for wax melts?
This video is Great! I've been working with that wax for years and I agree 100% with everything you said. The price of 464 soy is very high now, I found that buying two boxes (45lb) at Aztec you get the best deal considering the cost of shipping
Yes you are absolutely right!
Id like to say I've been making candles for a couple months. I've only used 464. I heat to 190 add fragrance of 8% and cool to 130 and pour. No heating my jars or anything and its cold here winter in midwest. Heater set to 65'. I have smooth tops 80% of the time. I heat gun the others and they all look beautiful. Never have any tunnels or issues other than what looks like unmixed fragrance on top.. I dont use any dye cause I dont want to deal with frosting. Not sure why everyone hates this wax. I've never used any other so I guess I cant compare yet. I've ordered fragrance from at least 4 diff companies and no matter what company or how much I stir the fragrance it never seems to fully mixes into the wax. I can see it like water mixed with oil. Candles burn nicely and last a long time and scent is great. I sell in person at a market not online. I do ok. But now I want to try other waxes to see what all this hype is about.
It mostly all comes down to preference . You can go down a long rabbit hole trying different waxes, just like fragrance oils. Lol
Dang 130? I tried pouring at 150 and got bumpy tops. Now I pour at 170 and it’s flawless
Wade we need more videos... ive watched ALL of your videos.... 17 times each...
Learning a Ton from you. I'm making Soap and Candles. May need to Focus on one. I'm glad I watched Part 2.. before I just went out and bought..
I've got a soy blend coming.. going to start there.
I pick up so many details from your videos and make notes. Keeps my mind busy and fascinated.
Thanks.
Absolutely! Thanks Curtis!
GW464 sucks. I unfortunately live in the south and my candles melted during shipping in the summer. I switched to 444 bc it had a higher melt point but it still has issues. I now only use Coconut-Soy. 444 is much better than 464 IMO.
Sure. I have some planned. :)
I would be interested in soy 444 and any combo experimentation! Thanks for the review/test video!
❤
I would also enjoy a tutorial using 444. This is the only soy wax I use in my business. Please give wick advise too!! I'm still nailing this down! Lol
@@ccswhimsies I use 444 and have had great HT at 185°F as well as 135°F. Sink holes have been a natural thing, but I use CD series wicks and it helps a lot with the burn area. So far, have not experienced drown out. The downside is I always need to fix the tops with a heat gun, but I'll take that over poor HT.
I have found your videos very helpful, I wish I found you before I wasted a few kilos of paraffin wax, practice does make perfect candles, I'm not throwing the bad ones out I fix them the best I can and give them to my family.
Great idea!
Thank you for these videos of the 464 wax… I’ve been stressing and almost giving up doing candles… great information and food for thought… sooo much money in the garbage when it comes to this wax, now only if I can get my wick size right for my eight ounce tins.. still not much hot throw.. you’ve been great and I’ll keep watching your channel. 😊👏
Thanks so much Andre
Cd12 and cd14 works in almost every 3 inch jar with 464
Alternatively, Eco8 and Eco10 work great for me in 8oz tins.
Also, LX wicks are very under-rated but if you happen to have a few, the LX-20 or LX-22 work even better than the CDs in my opinion.
I have tried everything on 464 . Tried low temperature pour and manufacturers recommended pour . I have not much success with hot throw . I have even cured for 1 month. I have tried stearic acid . So far coconut oil helped. I will continue to test until I come up a the best formula. I really think the soy wax now compared to 10 years ago , the now to me is not greatest. Cargill soy is what I used 10 years ago. I am not giving up for sure.
I would agree overall Lena. Still not my favorite but I had better success this time. And yes, I found many FOs that weren't strong.... the compatible ones though worked great!
i agree about the soy wax now compared to 10yrs ago!
Can’t wait to watch this! I started this journey with 464, and have tried several since then, including IGI 6006..(awful sink holes) and finally settled on C3. However, I have always used Problend 650 for wax melts, and finally bit the bullet, and ordered some Problend 400 to test out in candles. I have some curing, as we speak. I love Soy, but I have to say, I’m liking the PB 400 so far. It’s beautiful…a beautiful opaque, pearl white, and glass adhesion is phenomenal! I’m currently using CD series, so I’m not sure how the burn test is going to go. CT is great too…we shall see!
Another one I tested and did not care for, was the C6. The coconut wax is also a very pretty wax, and HT was good, but I had a hard time wicking it.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on pb400. :)
@@BlackTieBarn I’ll be sure to let you know! I’ll be lighting them next weekend! So far, glass adhesion is beautiful, color is beautiful…just praying those CD’s don’t let me down! Lol
@@BlackTieBarn well, I’m burning one candle right now, and the HT is amazing…everything you’d expect a Problend 400 would be, but I can see that my CD wicks will not work with this wax. The soot is through the roof. I’m sitting here watching it, and there’s no way. 🤦🏻♀️ lol I’ve got a bag of ECO wicks, and a bag of HTP wicks that I’m going to try out, but I’ve never had any luck with them, but have only tried them in the C3. If they don’t work, I will go back to the website, and scroll through the reviews (I’ll do that anyway) and see if anyone mentions which wick they use, and have success with! I might have to wick down a bit too…I currently use the CD 18, with those large salsa jars, and is usually perfect, but it seems to be a bit much right now. HT all good! Used 10% Rose Petals from Candle Science, and that’s a pretty strong one, anyway. Any suggestions on wicks? Lol I’m now on the hunt for one! Lol
@@nikkibayo Hi Nioaka... I was going to mention you were probably going to have issues with CD wicks. But, Iknew you already had them wicked and ready to test so figured... who knows. :) CD wicks are hot and sooty with most waxes. Especially paraffin waxes. Also, PB400 can soot easily if not wicked properly (like most waxes to be honest). I wouldn't use ECO either. They will be similar to the CD. I would try HTP, zinc, and Premier 700 wicks. Also maybe throw in LX. :)
@@BlackTieBarn thank you!! I’m going to be placing orders today with Flaming (if they have any in stock) lol but, I’ll grab all of the ones you mentioned, in their small bag sizes, and try them all! I’m determined to find something! It might take some time, but the HT is amazing, and the glass adhesion is amazing, and overall, it’s a beautiful wax! If I can get the wicking down, I may just begin using it. Also, I must say, for it being a slab, it’s very easy to work with. I love my flakes, because it’s easier to measure, and whatnot, but this is so soft, you can cut it with a butter knife. Melts super quick, so a fairly low melt point, which I think is also contributing to having to wick down a little. But, thank you for the suggestions! I will have to keep you posted.
In my testing of 464, ambient room temp was 74 to 76. Poured at 98F, got near perfect tops but poor jar adhesion.
Awesome
Yesss I’m so happy. I’ve been waiting for this part.
😁
I have had a few minor issues but nothing major w/ 464, unlike w/ the 6006 wax. So I've decided to stick w/ 464
👍
While I greatly appreciate the information and the troubleshooting of GB464, I am done with 464. I've been trying 464 for tooooo long. Moving on.
I don't blame ya. Lol. Just a series for those who wanna start or keep using it. :) It also isn't my choice wax
@@BlackTieBarn what would be your choice wax for soy candles? I know yours are organic blend...I currently use 4625 and 4630 in 8 oz tins and 11 oz tumblers and 9 oz straight...there are alot of black soot on jar walls..however I get a burn all the way to end almost every time and no wicks burning out...I am using lx 18 lx 20 wicks but just wondering if that is took much wick....my market seems to be a soy market I am realizing and some do not use paraffin based because of black smoke etc...so torn in that I would like to do soy but have spent so much time in a year perfecting the wax I am using now..any thoughts?
Hi Wade I'm a new subscriber to your channel I love your content in depth material that you cover very educational. Also love that you put all your product links in your description below is very helpful. I love your website looks amazing. If you don't mind me asking could you please tell me what Shopify theme you are using. If not I totally understand. Thank you very much for all your hard work and you put into your videos for viewers like me really do appreciate it keep up the great work.
Hey! It's called District (paid theme because there were a few things I wanted)
Thank you Wade. As for other waxes we would like to see reviewed the top on my list is palm wax. With the loss of the CSN wick series, even the manufacturers don't seem to know what is best to use in their place. As for sink holes, inversion does seem to make a positive difference, but I would be interested to learn what you have to say on the matter. Thank you so very much! 🙋♀
I don't have a ton of experience with palm wax too be honest at least currently. Yes inverting helped a bit. I recall much about wicking but I'll add it to my list
Once again many thanks for sharing this info and creating this series. My candle focus is on natural waxes, so I would like to hear your feedback on coconut wax, 444, or ECO 135. Thanks
Thank you and absolutely planned!
I would love to see a review/ testing of the new Ecosoya waxes to compare/contrast to 464
I hey Kellee. It's coming! Candle Science just sent me some for testing and review. ;) will get to it as soon as I can. Getting kinds backed up. 🤣😆
I would love a deep dive on 6006 :)
I will definitely do a series on it later but I do have some 6006 already on the channel. :)
I love 464. I don't have a problem with smooth tops just adhesion.
❤️
Awesome video! I have been testing 464 and your test results are spot on with mine. Pour at 145-150F in a room that is at 71-72F has been amazing for my candles. Beautiful smooth tops with no cosmetic issues. Now the way they look once the wax pool burns after the initial burn is a little unsightly. Do you have a favorite paraffin soy blend? I’m considering testing a cocosoy blend but they are a bit pricey!
Thank you for the feedback! If I had to choose a parasoy thst gives you some of the benefits of 464 thst you like.. minus some of the issues, I'd probably say joy wax or problend 600
Which fragrance oil do you use
Great information thanks for sharing 👍
Welcome! :)
Hi Wade thank you. I am currently binge watching your videos ive only been making candles going on a month. The first wicks I purchased were in the candle making kit on Amazon with no description of what they were. I then ordered some more and the same thing again. I did manage to get some CD wicks which turned out to be CD12 I believe. The problem is I'm in the UK and trying to find a good supplier that carries pro blend 600 wax and the premier 700 wicks. If you have any contact information I'd appreciate your advice. Thank again.
Would love you to test C-3 wax and 6006 having a hard time wicking my 3” diameters
Ty Henriette. It's in my plans! :)
I second that!! I know you are working on it, but C-3 and 6006 are my votes as well, in that order 😄 Great video as always!
I started with Soy wasn't getting good ht. Switched to blend, now switched back to soy because adding vybar really helped(with 2 scents). They are better than the blend lol for the other one I will stay with the blend lol
Yep. It will depend on every situation. Sometimes helps, sometimes doesn't. Lol
Would love a vid on 444 and c3!
👍❤
The first video of the series I do not recall the cold throw I was hoping you can explain to me in more detail the cold throw and hot throwers also you had mentioned how room temperature helps the candles set up better do you have a video on that or do you have a recommendation for a room temperature and humidity?
I just found room temperature. Thank you
Cold throw is just the scent when it's just sitting there not lit. Hot throw is while it's burning. Many says like 464 have great CT but harder to get good HT
Another great video
Thank ya!
Awesome videos! Nice explanations! Just a thing I wanna know. Ok, 464 is not good enough. Which wax is the best one for beginners? A certain type of soy? a blend? Thanks in advance!
Wade, I would like to see you test 4627. I am new to candle making and I have tried C3, 444, 6006 and 4627. I been testing 4627 and 6006 has of late and I am leaning to 4627. I currently still trying out HTP, CD, and LCS wicks. I would like to see your thoughts on it.
Thanks Daniel! I will add it to my list of waxes. Good one for sure!
Great information thank you
Wade forgot to ask what temperature did u add fragrances?
Great video! I need that apron! 😂
I love it!
Hi Wade! Love the video (really all of yours)! I know you recommended CD wicks but what are your thoughts about ECO wicks in comparison? If you have a moment to answer this, I simply thank you for all you have done to help us.
Yes.... both cd and eco work for 464 in my experience. I just don't use the wax enough to help with specific sizes in each jar.
@@BlackTieBarn thank you!!
I would love to know the answer to that as well.
Thank you so much for sharing your results! This mini series was very informative. :)
In the case of colder ambient temperatures in winter, would you also recommend pouring hotter?
This is a great question.
Yes I would. Or use a heater to heat up that area. But yes you will need to test, adjust, and accommodate for ambient temp changes for ideal results. If you are that picky like me. 😆
I truly appreciate your videos and the help. I did the ct and I still couldn’t smell the candle that well. I did .08 of fragrance. Maybe I’ll do ht next and do .10 of fragrances. Do you suggest any temp of melting and adding fragrance? I am going to use 150 pour like you said. Please let me know thank you
Hey Pete. I don't use a ton of 4y4 wax and my experience is limited to moderate testing so far. I have very mixes results with both CT and HT depending on what FO I use. My first suggestion would be to try several oils and stick to the ones that perform well. Other than that, I would reach out to supplier for assistance. As I get more time to test it I definitely will provide updated info though
Hello, Wade! Just wanna say that I just love your videos! I’m in the process of starting my candle journey, and, I’ve learned soooo much from you, but, I hafta say I’m a little nervous about beginning the whole process…kinda draggin’ my feet with a crap load of candle supples sitting in my Amazon cart. 🤪 I’m having a difficult time choosing my jars, as well…but, I do really like yours…would you mind sharing your vessel info? Thanking you kindly! 😊🌟
Thanks Susie. And yep, I've shared them many times over the course of my videos. The ones you are referencing are just 9oz straight sided jars and 8oz Mason jars. Most suppliers sell both (one of the reasons I like them). But.... right now...hardly anything has a good supply. Temporary supply problem due to pandemic. :/
@@BlackTieBarn Thank-you soooo much for such a prompt reply, Wade…you ROCK! Soooo, you use the straight-sided jars in your “Make candles with me”? They look so much nicer than ones I’ve looked at!!!
Sure are! :) most jars look lame until finished product in my opinion. Lol
@@BlackTieBarn HA! I love that! Hopefully, mine won’t look lame AFTER the finished product! 🤣
If I am not happy with the hot through, can I re melt/heat the candle and ad a little more and stir? Or is it bad to reheat/metl a candle?
You can for testing purposes. But I wouldn't for finished products you intend to sell
I would be interested in knowing about Bees Wax ? Thanks!!!
Hi Dennis. I donn't do much with beeswax at the moment but its on my list. :)
the math isn't working for me. i have a jar that weighs 7.95 oz 225 grams - empty, i'm going to use 10% FO. my math was that i would need 205 grams of wax, 20 grams FO for the total of 225.
when my candle jar is filled right before the rim, the weights are 23.05 oz / 652 grams. way off! What am i doing wrong? Please help
I've experimented and have added 10% coconut oil to my formula. It has helped with a smooth surface top appearance especially when the candle is relit. I will say that when I started every soy wax was impossible to get except for 464 so that is what I started out with. I went through countless experiments to get my formula right. What soy wax would you recommend ?
100% agree. At this point is still probably recommend 464 or CB Advanced (hard to get right now). But for the most part i prefer blends. Also, I didn't talk about adding coconut oil or waxes to 464 in this video because I wanted to really focus on just using this wax alone (plus a few minor additives). But yes I plan to do more with adding other waxes, etc. Thanks so much for your reply!
I also add coconut oil & have also found it helps with smoother surface/appearance. Also using stearic acid to help everything bind. I am not "married" to this blend, but as a new candlemaker I'm going with this now as I start selling. This will be my base as I grow in experience, blends, etc.
Drar Thomas, thanks a lot for your great tips again. Is it better to add FO or EO to soy 464? :))
FO
Love this series on 464 & looking forward to the video on 6006. I've only been attempting to make candles properly for the last couple of months & apart from the weaker HT, 464 is working really well for me, thanks to your previous videos. I'm not very happy so far with 6006 though. I'm doing something wrong. I can repair the sinkholes & even put up with the poor adhesion but the sooting during the lower 3rd of the candle is horrendous so I've decided to start again. No colour & no fragrance, just the jar (3" dia x 4" h), a wick & wax & keep repeating until I can get a relatively clean burn with the right wick. I can then start adding other things 1 at a time. Does this sound like a reasonable plan of attack? Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Thanks Wade
Hey Steve. Yes.... it does sound like a good plan. But don't bee too hard on your yourself from the results so far. 6006 is a good. All around wax but it is very tough to wick. And only works well in a few jars in my opinion. You may experiment with some others like problend 600/joy wax, C3 or 464 with some coconut oil or mix it with your 6005 potentially. Just some other options to consider as well. :)
Thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback. I’ll persevere & try some of your suggestions 👍
Thanks Julie. I’m in Australia so I’ll see if I can find a local supplier. I tried to order some Premier wicks from the USA but they want anywhere from $70 - $95 just for shipping for $30 in wicks. Little bit steep for me
@Julie Haskett Funny you should say that, I ordered a heap of LCS wicks from them after I replied to you earlier 😂 Thanks so much for the advice
@@stevem540i Yah I wouldn't pay that either, tough when you need international shipping. And i apologize, I am not familiar with suppliers much in Austraila.
I’ve also been wanting to buy that wicker machine you’re using, but I read so many negative reviews on Candle Science’s website about it, that I haven’t. I use the large, 16 ounce Salsa Jars for my candles, so I’m not sure if it would work?
The negative reviews are mostly people using it on jars it doesn't fit. That's not a product problem though. Lol. Works fine on my jars that it fits. I haven't tried a 16oz salsa Jar so I'm not too sure. :/
Hiya, I am in the UK. Can you test Eco soya CB Advanced. Thank you.
It's definitely on my list. :)
What jard i can used and what wicked # and its 10% or 6%
Where do you usely buy most of your fragrance oil. Thank you for sharing.
Oh man... several places. It's a problem. Lol
Candle science, Flaming candle, lonestar, natures garden and Aztec mostly with several others mixed in
Hello. I am testing with soy wax 464.. how can I fix the surface defects ? It’s a perfect surface at the beginning. I burn it for 3 hours and it dries horrible. Can I mix my wax with something to make this problem go away?
Interesting! I haven't been able to get any jar adhesion with 464.
Yes, at the beginning but pass some ours you star seen the frosting on the side of the jars more then the top.. need help.
Tell pls..
Can you mention some good oils that work well with 464
I'll have to leave that to heavy 464 users. It's not a primary wax of mine so I really don't know off hand. I'll get back to you if I come across any specific ones in my testing though. There are just tons though
Do you have a video like this for 454?
Not yet. :)
I tested 6006 , 464 and soy bliss many times I have problems with HT with the last 2 what’s the most one u like and work with
6006 had the best throw out of those 3 I'd say
When using the 464 wax how high do I let it get too and when do I put the vybar in and what wick would you recommend
Hi deborah. I'm not a current export on 464, but in my experience I still hear the wax to manufacture recommendations which is the same for most waxes. Around 190. Add vybar first while wax is hottest so it melts down. Wick willvary drastically by your jar shape and size. And even your FO sometimes. But most using 464 use CD wicks.
When should we poke the holes to fix the sink holes, after the 2 week curing or before?
I would do it much sooner myself. I wait until the candle is mostly cooled but not all the way. But there is definitely room for flexibility there. Every wax is a bit different. But sometime within the first few hours usually. Waxes that take longer to cool can wait longer
Hello there, I want to know it takes how many days for the candle to fully cure and get a smooth surface? Because now I have tried making a few candles and it all ended up getting a rough surface even though I follow your method and tried to pour at different temperature. Do you get a smooth surface right after the wax got into shape in the jar or you still have to wait for a couple of days? I hope you can really help me out, thank you.
It's mostly about the wax you're using. Letting ot sit longer won't help with smooth surfaces. If don't have a smooth surface after a day, you won't. Will need to fix with heat gun. Most soy waxes won't have a smooth surface unless you add something to it... coconut, paraffin, beeswax, some other oils or additives as we
@@BlackTieBarn thank you for replying me. What do you suggest to add to get a smooth surface? I saw local businesses here always promote they are using 100% soy wax and selling perfectly smooth surface. Is that possible?
@@HumanFactsUnveiled probably a marketing gimmick, although i dont know waht they are using so i cant say for sure. If they are adding something, then its not 100% soy. In fact, most "soy candles" are sold that way but they actually have small amounts of something else like paraffin, beeswax, coconut wax, etc. So if you are looking to completely eliminate frosting and ugly tops (permanently) you need to add something. You can sell them looking good by just using a heatgun and smoothing out the top. But it wont last after they burn it once.
@@BlackTieBarn thank you so much for your reply. Appreciate it a lot. I hope you'll be able to help more candle makers in the future. Thank you and god bless 🙏🏻
I have a question do candles have a shelf life. I have wax that I bought since 2020 and wanted to know if I can still use them.
You can use the wax for sure. Depending on the kind, it can change a bit as it sits. Especially organic based ones. But you are probably fine
@@BlackTieBarn I have 464,494 and coconut apricot wax
Not good at all too frosted etc not matter if you used low or hight temperature..I'm so desapoint of it any tip I will appreciate
As a new candle maker how do I know it’s the oil itself that doesn’t work for my wax rather than a wrong wick?
Just testing really and changing one at a time until you one. If a certain wick type works most the time.... its probably the oil. If the wick isn't working with hardly any of them, it's probably the wick
@@BlackTieBarn thank you for your reply, makes sense
Hello
What percentage of fragrance oil did you find that works best for u in 464?
I don't use a ton of 464 but usually around 10%
@@BlackTieBarn ok thank you
Hi. Does soy wax attract ants?
Have you tested 444?
I was wondering if you had ever tried adding coconut oil and / or beeswax into your 464. If so what kind of results did you get
Beeswax didn't really help anything at all. Decrease the HT, hurt jar adhesion. Wasn't a benefit mostly. Coconut oil/wax helps a bit with surface issues, didn't really notice any difference in HT. But... I didn't include coconut in this video. As I was trying to keep it the base wax (mostly). I do plan on future videos with blending other waxes or ingredients though. :)
What are your thought on C-6 and C-3?
I like C6 okay..... but not enough to use. Limited testing as well. Not a fan of c3 for same reasons of 464 for the most part. Personal preference though
Can you test Soy 10?
Yes please 😀
Yep as soon as I can get my hands on it and get a chance. :)
Have you use BW 921?
Not yet. ;)
What wax do you use for your business ?
Hi, I use several depending on the product. A lot of pro blend 600, igi 6006. And some clarus 3022. For melts mostly problend 650 and pillar of bliss.
maybe adding some paraffin to 464?
For sure! Parasoys are very popular. This video was meant to dive into 464 without blending with other waxes. (Most people using 464 don't want to add paraffin). But, yes... I will definitely be doing videos about blending too. Thank you! 😁
I have experimented with adding paraffin. Mild success. More experimenting for sure since 464 is one of 2 soys I can buy locally.
@@BlackTieBarn I’m also interested in maybe blending 464 with 6006. I feel like that’ll help with hot throw too
Great video! We offer coconut wax candles and supplies. Check us out!
Thank you! Will do!
Hello 444 please 😂
On my list. ;)
Stealing "you get a lotta burn for your buck" 🤚😁
😁👌
Those blue eyes ❤😍
😁