How to Fill a Wooden Floor (Effective)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- How To Fill A Wooden Floor
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Find out what products I use here:
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Depending on your preference you may want to fill your floor. It can prevent drafts coming up from beneath the floor and it can help to make a floor look much more neat and tidy. Some people prefer to keep the gaps, they believe that filling the floor will make it look fake like laminate or lino. Each to their own, personally, I say fill it every time.
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Before you comment or email asking what filler to use, you can find out what I use and recommend (UK and US) by downloading my free eBook about the products I use. It has fillers, lacquers, oils, stains everything you need to know got to howtosandafloor.com/products/
Informative video thank you. I have a floor I don’t plan on refinishing and I want to fill gaps that I have. What would you recommend I use to fill the gaps that would hold in changing weather season due to expansion/contraction?
Put decorators tape either side of the gap, the. Gun in bona gap master, press it in with your finger then pull up the tape. Bona do about 16 different wood colours with gap master
Hi, the filler have to be after the sand? Thanks.
@@HowToSandAFloor can you tell me please what kind of floor is this?beech or something else?thanks
I'm a professional antique furniture restorer and have a lot of experience of working with wood. matching new repairs to old surfaces etc. i have just bought 55 square meters of reclaimed pine floorboards to lay in my workshop over battens, never done this before so your instructional videos are a fantastic find, thank you for taking the trouble to make them, I know, having watched them that I can lay the boards and finish them with confidence, and that it look really good.by following your instructions.
Absolutely brilliant. My house and it's floors are over 100 years old and have been covered with carpeting for most of that time. I can't afford an artisan as yourself, but am considering it as a DIY. Working in various trades for decades, I've seen my share of hatchet jobs done to what were beautiful floors, and now deserve to be laminated over.
Planning to work through your catalog here for what is a wealth of great information and clarity. Even if my wife bumps me off and completes the home renovations with the insurance, you have already imparted some priceless knowledge so that we don't get talked around.
Oh, I get it. The liquid is the filler, and the dust is just what you use for pigment. The reason you use the dust from the floor you just sanded is because it will be the best match colorwise for that room. That's awesome!
this guy's videos are the ONLY thing you should watch about refinishing a floor. really wish I had watched them all before I went through the steps. I started with sanding and cut diagonal like he said (even though everyone told me not to!) the drum sander cut away over 100 years of paint, varnish, scratches, rot, and animal piss. It took 4 or 6 passes diagonally with 24 grit. I did reach a few nails on the tongue and groove on a floor that had never been refinished, so I figure I removed just over 1/8" to 3/32" or 5 40 gallon garbage cans full of sawdust. I have a bad back and the drum sander was hurting. I tried the edge sander and was afraid I was going to mess it up when my back went out. mind you, I was not re-doing one room. I stripped carpet from 800 square feet of red oak downstairs and 400 square feet of heart pine upstairs (5 rooms plus a library/office nook). I didn't want to, but animal urine forced me to... you cannot shampoo animal urine out of carpet, pad and floor underneath. don't even bother. So I went with a 3 head orbital using 24 grit around the edges (and it took a long time (hours with each of the larger grits per room). I didn't trowel and now after a coat of sealer and 1 poly I wish I had because the gaps on the old pine are quite wide. 24 grit diagonal and with the grain, 36 grit with the grain, 60 grit with the grain, then 80 and 100 grit with the orbital. it is far from perfect. I should have done 6 or 8 passes diagonal but I was afraid of going to far after I saw nails. the oak did not cut down nearly as easily as the pine, so even though the downstairs was in much better shape, it was hard to get through the old finish and even out the floor, so it took just as long; also harder to get out any mistakes. I should have vacuumed more between passes. The larger grit can get stuck under the orbital and scratch a curly-q longer than orphan Annie's in floor and you probably wont see it later.... it looks like some insect on meth attacked the wood and ate a trail in circles over and over for 3 to 8 inches. the paper gummed up.. a lot!... I easily spent $400 on sanding paper, and since I was working 80 hours a week at my normal job, the sander rental fees were also quite expensive for the month that we had them. I don't need to trowel the oak. I'm just looking for a his video on finishing, so I can get this hell month over with and not regret all the time and money I spent if the floor comes out bad with a crappy finish job. lots of bubbles even with the lambs wool. the pine looks pretty good i'll say, but he would probably say it sucks and he is probably right. it was half the price of a professional and I started right away, not 2-3 months to book a quality professional. so where is the video for finish mate?!!!
Don't be so hard on ya self. The floor probably looks great!
Just got done filling my floor... THEN I found your video. Jesus man. That was amazing.
Love this video. Sorry if you said but 'when' in the sanding process would you do the filling? You use the 80grit dust, but would you do the filling after the 80grit sanding stage, then leave it to set, then continue with the rest of the sanding process (100grit onwards etc). OR do you do it after all sanding is done, but before the oil/lacquer goes on? Cheers
EDIT: It's on his website:
Before you start filling you should have completed the edge sanding to a 50 or 60 grit and sanded the main body of the floor with at least 80 grit. I sand the floor to 60 grit, empty the dust bag, then sand the floor with 80 grit. That way you have only fine dust from the 80 grit. But the advice I would give to a novice is also empty the dustbag at 80 as well, then do the 100 grit and use the 100 grit dust to fill the floor (and the 80 grit dust if your run out of 100 grit dust).
When someone makes it look easy, you know they’ve done it a lot. Thanks for the pointers, I’m about to refinish my floors.
Bedalla ?ah comporle tet 😢
love that workmanship on the floor... its a beauty to look at
I followed floor guys for over 20 years doing the paint finals. I had no idea thats how you did this. Great job, super cool floor.
That's a nice bit of work. You use that trowel like a champ. Never occurred to me to "grout" a wood floor, but it makes perfect sense. God willing, I will never have to!
I was about to say the same
It fun to see videos by people that know what they are doing
Love this lad for what he's sharing.
Quite a useful bit of information provided about finishing new or older hardwood flooring. Such a discovery running into your video, learning how to DIY restoration ! Super !
Good looking results . Apparently that Herring bone design had needed filling. I just mix the fine edger dust as well with regular floor finish and it works well. Thanks
yes sometimes i have to do this, when in a squeeze, the only bad thing about it is that its tough to sand off the surface
Great video, watched it and thought i can do that. What a total mess, filler every where, had to resand the whole floor to get the filler off. Hats off to ben, that is a skill you have there.
Sanding after is standard.. yeah it is a messy job and more work than people realize. I usually fill after my rough cut then sand with 50G and then 80G. Sometimes you have to fill twice.. it can be a hassle.
@@ackmino hey, i realised I'd made a stupid statement as i wrote it....! I ended up hand (orbital) sanding the floor to get the finish I wanted as the hire tools I had were so either poor or I lack the skillzzzz.... Thanks for the tip, I have loads more floors to do.
My first clue that I couldn’t do it was the fact he didn’t bother with the knee pads.
This hard worker deserves a beer
Toma Bogdan he deserves a belt.
You mean an 18 pack so he can forget the pain in the knee for those days of no pads.
Cold one....yes thank u mam
9 years later and I came to say this!
once you've filled the gaps would you then re-sand it with a fine grit pad before adding your finish to it?
I’m wondering the exact same thing
Yes
I love to see a craftsman make it look like a work of art.👍
Ok IAM going too say it. People do not try this at home!!lol. This guy makes it look flawless and easy. So beautifully done.
The most satisfying video on the internet
Thank you!
FanBloodyTastic.
I have Australian hardwood floors that I had Re sanded and polished downstairs in my home. The gaps were filled with a wood putty containing colour similar to the boards. Looks ok, however I believe with time this filler can “ pop” especially with heat expansion in our hot Australian summer. It’s done now. However upstairs needs Re sanding also. I’ll show this video to my sanding professional and I’ll do it myself prior to final sanding and polishing. Thank you ever so much for sharing your trade secrets with us. I wish you all the very best in every thing you do mate. Cheers, Andrew V.
using a dust-resin mix like this isnt as popular elsewhere in the world. In these places wood putty is more likely to be used. This dust-resin mix isnt any better for staying in the gaps and may infact be a little worse. I have some friends in australia and some of the woods out there are gorgeous! Spotted gum, black butt, tazmanian oak. Wish we had all this here!
Great job, mate. I doubt that I'd use a water-based filler, although it's safer and user-friendly, because the moisture in it would cause the wood floor pieces to swell and then shrink back after they dry, the filled voids could be left with cracks. I also suppose that floor boards up to 3/4" (19 mm) thick would cause filler to slump and/or shrink into the voids between boards and require a second application. I suppose that only a very thin mixture would allow the filler to flow to the bottom of such voids to form a stronger, more structural fill rather than a cosmetic surface filling. Thanks for the vid and the expert info. I can't wait to begin refinishing wood floors!
solvent fillers like the one i use in the video dry very quickly and shrink. Waterbased fillers tend not to shrink so much. Waterbased filler doesn't cause the wood to swell, its just not enough moisture. Btw sometimes i do apply twice with the solvent based
I got a Rhodesian teak floor just sanded yesterday. Now am onto filling. When you refer to "fillers" - what product /brand is that that you mean with that? (Going to the hardware and wondering what to ask for 🙈)
@@katjamartini1885 howtosandafloor.com/how-to-fill-a-wooden-floor/ The type of floor filler that we're talking about is sold in gallon quantities, is pourable and spread with a rubber squeegee, allowed to dry sufficiently and then sanded smooth before topcoats are applied. The filler will fill all cracks, gaps and the "tick" of the open-pore teak wood and allow for a smooth, even final finish. You won't find this at your local home center and would need to find a paint or flooring store that carries this, or an online vendor. Here's one example woodwudy.com/products/bona-pacific-filler?variant=2739578830858&Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwx9_4BRAHEiwApAt0zt71-xuSly1xHd2lOTwoF4cWVOM6ILDKmW0vLRjW5X0-6pROfEci_hoCg6gQAvD_BwE. Filler color is another consideration and an appropriate colorant may also be advisable. The filler that we're talking about here is similar but different from "grain filler" which can be found at a local paint store typically in 1-quart quantities and uniquely used to fill open-pore woods e.g. oak and ash prior to final finishing in order to achieve smooth, even final finish without the finish sunken into the wood pores where it occurs. Best of luck.
I'm impressed at how little you needed for that, small gaps! I'll probably need double 😂
Awesome. Thank-you just wish I would have found your channel a couple of weeks ago. Better late than never.
perfect! ok..what do you do after it dries? you lightly sand it and poly? what are the final steps?
I like the funky music especially when I'm huffing solvent.
I have refinished my whole floor (1200sq/ft) following your page. Great!
One thing I'd strongly urge anyone else who's doing it though, is to use minimum 100 grit sanding dust when filling. I tried 80 grit dust first and it was far too coarse. Had to redo what I'd done before I caught the problem.
Did you sand them again after filling?
@@jkarasta1 Damn for real, can someone answer this question already so I can move on with my day?
The floor must always be sanded after the filling to get the filler off the surface.
@@HowToSandAFloor Thank you!
How To Sand A Floor Thank you!!!!!!!!
Thank you for these videos!!! I have a whole house's worth of flooring to redo, and I am not nearly as intimidated as I was before.
I really like this filling method. I've used similar methods making filler for woodworking projects, but I've never used a solvent.
When you sand off this filler-layer, can you then re-use the dust to make more filler?
As mentioned below, that funky groove is making me reach for my flares and cigarillos!
Thank you for sharing your hard earned experience and know-how with us!! Excellent content and commentary on video, including your replies in text. Truly nice work. Many thanks.
Great Instruction and you made it look easy. Thanks for the video:)
Thanks for this info. There are lots of parquet and wood floorings from rich houses that need restoring and since coronavirus hit hard on the construction work I'll see if I can get a job with parquet flooring
Im not sure why this is so pleasurable to watch?
A true artiste! I'm about to do a motorhome floor in blonde tongue and groove. Thanks for the mixing and spreading style tips.
Usually I would save the 150grit dust or the second stage dust collector dust. Man you will have a real professional filler that way. And I use good pva glue but I'll try using the floor varnish and see if can get a drying time faster and a huge save in money. The varnish I'm talking have a harder and dries very hard. Maybe will work for some applications
Did you try the varnish? I know it’s 2 years ago. I’m hoping you will still see this message. PVA is interesting. Would you sand the floor again after?
That was very helpful and informative as to the order of doing things too, which I was not overly sure of. So lay floor and then initial sand, make up filler, lay filler and then finish the sanding process. Got it, thanks very much from South Autralia.
Top notch work mate! It is good to see a job well done.
We are installing reclaimed red oak by hand. Yes it takes time. The product originated in Arkansas, still has the info on the back of each board.
I liked it.. you are a hard working man.. and it seems you love your work too..this is good :)
Great video, with my project I'm at the filling stage so this is useful. Quick question though, once you've filled what do you do next? Another once-over with the sander? If so, how long should you leave the filler to harden before sanding?
Yes. Best to let dry overnight if you can. You want want the filler to come back out of the cracks if it hasn't dried all the way
Dude...you're stud man! That floor looked "meh" prior to you doing that and now it looks frickin gorgeous. I even subscribed. lol. I don't even work on floors or with wood. I work on carrs! lmao!
nezerac thank you!
How To Sand A Floor
Great Video mate brilliant work . What make of spreader is that bud I’d been interested in getting one ?
Great music ;) It made the video-watching-experience that much more fun.
i try lol
I'd like to know the name of the musician as I loved it too !
@@heathercollins50 Heather, it has a distinct James Brown sound.
If memory serves me correctly, I believe James Brown had to serve time due to some tax problems (long time ago, so I might have it wrong) and his band continued to produce and record music. This is no doubt one of theirs. JB was one of the BEST performers ever. I was in a "garage band" in the 1960s and we tried to imitate him and we thought we were pretty cool, but we couldn't hold a candle! Hope this helps. Stay safe. Mark
@@markmossinghoff8185 Thanks Mark !
Thank you for the excellent videos Ben. For 1st floor pine plank floorboards would you recommend a different method? I've read in some of the comments below that this kind of open fill isn't suitable for floorboards because of the seasonal contraction/expansion. FYI, we are in the UK so seasonal temperature variations aren't perhaps as great as elsewhere.
If open fill isn't suitable, you've mentioned spot filling. What product would you use for that? Would you ever insert wood strips (I've seen that on other videos)? Tx!
Was about to rip out my wood floor could not stand the spacing... thanks for the info great video.
Glad I inspired you!
excellent video!! and ben's instruction is very detailed. thanks Ben
Great video!
What do you do with the leftover fill in the pile? Seems like it would harden rather quickly, so is there a concern if you don't get excess up?
What kind of wood solvent sealer you use? Good job. Just got a big project today living room and dinning room. Thanks for the idea God bless
Very good thanks for your knowledge and time,will that be the same for a parquet floor?
this is a parquet floor so yes, same for all floors :)
I used PVA mixed with the dust and it worked fine, but not for big gaps, the water based is useless for that, only good for small gaps.
Jan Davis how did you find it when doing the final sand after the filling?
I'm just starting the sanding process of a reclaimed parquet herring bone patter - so will use this process to fill any gaps - what's the best process and product o then give it it's final was / finish? I don't want to look too polished or shiny when it's finished
Great video! I've got a couple of big gaps in my parquet. Maybe like 8mm wide and the length of a whole block... Could I use this to fill that gap?
This is a great video. How would you fill knot holes or holes more substantial from grade B wood, say holes 1 inch deep and 1 inch in diameter, or larger? Also, would this technique work well for more porous woods like Red Oak? Finally, how would you handle floors that have more than one kind of wood that are slightly different colors?
Also, can the Bona products be applied over the Lecol 7500 filler?
I found this warning on the web - so I guess the climate will determine the success of this method: "Trowel-filling is exactly what it sounds like: spreading large quantities of filler over the entire area of a floor, allowing it to dry hard, then sanding off everything that doesn’t fill a void. In some cases (and in the hands of a professional) this procedure can have some benefits: on very new floors in climates where the boards don’t swell and shrink very much through the seasons, trowel-filling does help keep the finish contiguous and may help to prevent some cases of White Line Syndrome. But in older, already gappy floors in climates with season extremes (yes, like Minnesota) the benefits of trowel-filling are short-lived. Within a year, the movement of the floor will break up the filler, leaving you with a finish which is no longer contiguous AND loose fill between the boards."
Gary Button yep! I advise against filling on boards any thicker than 3inch because the expansion and contraction can cause a very unsightly appearance. In fact I only really fill parquet floors like this these days, you have small blocks but also the floor is covered in expanding sides of the block against a non expanding side (the ends of the blocks) so expansion and contraction is minimised. On strip floors I recommend just spot filling ugly gaps
I love the Broken Herringbone wood floors, what kind of wood is that though? Looks awesome!
UPDATE: After 2 years of emails from US readers who cannot find this kind of filler, I have finally been given the name of a filler that is available in the US that serves the same purpose, and it can --> NOThere
Hi there, great details on the channel, I was wondering I have a parquet floor that I have sanded and it has some areas where say a 2-3mm deep strip of the parquet has stripped off over the years. It has been over varnished many years ago so in the indentation the varnish is still showing after sanding, would this be covered by using the dust filling method in this video or better to use wood filler? I am planning to change colour to a lighter stain.
I have a herringbone type floor with some of the wooden planks coming loose. I could probably lift a couple of planks with a butter knife if I wanted to. What would you recommend to re-adhere the planks down to the floor?
That's a very intricate floor pattern. I assume it is not Tongue & Groove and that's why you have a lot of gaps. ??? You said that you now will sand the floor again. Doesn't the mixture you just put on the floor gum up the sand paper quickly?
Your vids are so much more useful!! Thanks so much
QUESTION: I have a 6" long plank board oak (from Poland) floor that was originally laid pretty green. No need to argue why that happened, it is what it is. 5 years later the floor has gaps between a 16th and a 1/4" between planks. Plus, it was weakly glued to a plaster-leveled floor compound and there are several places where I can hear a hollow sound when I rap on the top of the wood. I think the only way to 100% solve my problem is to bring in the most professional floor layers in my area and completely replace the floor with new material. However I am wondering if there is a 'diving save' option where I use the technique you described above but with two phases: 1) use a fairly liquid version so the glue gets deep into the cracks, and 2) a second normal viscosity layer for leveling the cracks. Would love to hear your thoughts and recommendations
Just bought a 105 year old house, I ripped up the carpet and the hardwood looks pretty good for how old it is, it is going to need a lot of work before I get re staining and applying poly, at what step in the process do I do the wood filling? after I have completely sanded the floor 80-100grit? or somewhere in the middle? and after I do this wood filling what grain to I need the start the process at again?
I'm going to be doing some floor filling on a customer's red oak floor. I'm going to use Woodwise's floor filler. My question is that my customers want to remove the red and pink tones from their floor. I'm curious if I could just use the Woodwise White Oak filler over their red oak floors to achieve this. I'm curious if you ever tried this. My guess is that it would be less effective than using a separate product specifically formulated for removing the red and pink tones but perhaps only marginally so. Perhaps combing both the Woodwise White Oak filler with another red remover product will achieve a better effect.
I've read that filler will break up when wood expands/contracts over the seaons?? Couldn't filling a whole floor become a disaster? I'm missing something then?
This is really my favourite Channel!
Thanks for your nice Videos,
it is very enlightening,
Waiting for your latest update.
Drumsnab Parkette
if you are staining the wood floor, do you mix the stain with the dust, or stain afterwards?
Thanks for the video guide, I’ll be giving this a go next week. One thing, I’ve really struggled to find the knife you use to spread the filler. Are you able to share a link please?
Nice demo on how it's done, thank you again.
Wonderful videos! You are so helpful! The only question I have is should I use filler at all on 20 year old yellow pine wood floors? They have gaps. But they tend to expand and shrink. I’m in desperate need of your advice. I can’t find much info of filling softwood floors. Thanks
Look up how they fill period wooden floors, it is similar, but with sand. The waterbased solvent this man suggests for newbie people should do the trick. Period wooden floors have some sand as well as the sawdust and the filler.
Very good job! thank you! I am going to do my house floor, but I have no experience on it. Do I start with a 60 sand papier followed by a 100 one?
Bucket and drill whisk will save you loads of time.
Ventilation is massively important - I’ve been in the middle of a vapour flash, it is some scary shit! Singed eyebrows, the works!!!
Greetings from the USA!!! Great video, Ben... thanks so much for taking the time to post :) I wish I had seen this prior to having my floors refinished by local "professionals" - I could've shown them the RIGHT way to refinish a floor. The only gaps they filled were very large knots and for those they used the filler straight from the container (didn't even stain to come close to a color match) which filled my dark knots pink! They didn't even bother with any of the gaps between the planks. My floor is a combination of 40 year old red and white oak, 3/4" thick by 2 3/4" wide. Is there anything you would recommend to fill those gaps that would not require the entire floor be sanded again? I can't bear the thought of removing all my furniture and dealing with the dust fall out again. Any help and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Peter Siciliano wait until summer time, the oak will expand and those gaps will disappear, but if you deffo want it fixed now, im afraid it's a resand, the filler damages the surface. Its very difficult to get hold of good filler in the US, i still haven't found anywhere. The inter state laws on materials like this make it an utter nightmare, vote rand paul
Peter Siciliano
Sounds like you have a #2common mixed red/white oak flooring. (lots of knots & sap marks...beautiful stuff!)
You could use Zar waterbased filler, color match to wood. Non-toxic, user friendly.
1st - Color the pink filled knots with the darker appropriate color tint....very easy to do with an artists brush.
OR...you gouge out the pink knot filler you don't like then fill with proper colored fill, let dry thoroughly (use a fan) and heat if humid.
If you use the gouging method then proceed to #2:
2nd - fine screen or do a quick orbital - sanding off the top layer of putty filler carefully not cutting into the finish.
3rd - Trowel the waterbased filler (w/ proper color) all over the floor, let dry. (if you have gaps over the entirety of floors)
4th - use a damp wrung out rag (like a tile man) to SURFACE wipe off the putty, let dry.
5th - use the fan w/ heater (must be thoroughly dry) before you do a 120 screening to remove the *all* the putty/filler and screening at the same time the finish.
6th - check your work quality and if satisfied, vacuum and coat.
(note: you can see what it'll look like (places that still need some 150g hand sanding to remove missed putty/filler BEFORE you start coating.
Hope this helps. :-)
HongrySheep
>BEFORE you start coating<
Forgot to add: use paint thinner soaked rag to gloss over the suspect areas to see the outcome before you lay down the coat :-)
Puntate lupin
Question: So instead of sanding dust and wood flour cement for a filler. Could you use a tung oil and sanding dust mixture? Or a wax and sanding dust mixture (probably not that one)? Thanks!
Your vids are good and edited just right thanks
Hi thanks for your tips really helpful. I’m due to fill my floor tomorrow but how long do you have to wait before you can sand the floor again I assume final grit size?
Question for you given your experience. I have an old T&G floor - probably 150-200 yo. The floor is so old it was attached directly to the joists and half the joists are logs and no it isn't the subfloor... this is how they used to do it in log homes. Anyway, some of the gaps have grown so large over the years, the tongues are really showing. What to do? I've been considering everything from slivers to a method similar to that in the video. The space is air conditioned which probably helps. But I am concerned with seasonal changes (I'm in the north east US). I've heard any filler will likely crumble out over time. And it sounds like slivers aren't great to T&G (which makes sense). There is some movement in some boards which I'll likely address as well as possible from underneath (coupled with some additional fasteners in tongues). But after that, it is what it is. The other option is that I just leave the gaps as they are (e.g. character) and just fix the really bad holes with dowels, sand, stain/varnish. What do you think? Thanks for your help man - I'm open!
Was that a refinish job or new installation , I have some very good tips for new installations of Herron bone floors good job
Good job on filling those cracks! I like your fails video too. Thanks for sharing! I like your low key presentation and not a lot of jabbering. What wood was that?
Hi Ben, great videos thanks for sharing with us. I have a project that I've been procrastinating for weeks and I hope you can help. I have pine flooring installed on my ceilings. How would you go about filling the seams and holes while upside down? Good thing is they are 8' ceilings so they aren't hard to reach. I was wanting to use my saved sawdust like in this video.
There may be a more ingenious answer, but personally i would mix the filler up in a small bucket then just fill it with a fairly wide filling knife. I know pro's that do this on floors, purely because they have never learnt another way lol. Use a waterbased filler from either, Junckers, Bona or Blancheon. Make it a dryer more viscous mix
Really great to see this from a pro. Thx. Cheers!
My 103 year old house has oak flooring (though I think it is over the original pine flooring) and has gaps between many of the boards where the wood has shrunk over the years, would you suggest this method for those kinds gaps in the flooring?"
i came to this video to learn about diy floor finishing but saw this floor and want to change mine to this. What kind of floor is this? great vid btw.
Great music,dude....easy to work with!
What is that you pour into the wood dust to mix it for spreading?
If I intend to stain the floor will I have any success filling in the manner you have but perhaps mixing stain with the sawdust? I am struggling to imagine how to both fill and stain since the lacquer will of course not take the stain after dried - unless I gel stain over the top after filling? Thanks for your time on this; I have enjoyed your videos.
well after you have filled the floor you still have to sand the filler off of the surface of the floor so its only in the gaps. Then you can stain the floor. Filler takes stain quite well
I live in northern Canada and was told not to fill in the gaps because they would pop out due to the natural expansion/contraction of wood due to the annual hot and cold cycles and/or humidity changes. Was I misinformed? Is there away to prevent the popping out of the filler?
Planning on doing a pallet wood flooring a small room, thanks for this info!
You must be good your work jeans and pouch’s are so clean lad
You mention that if you have very few openings between boards, say five in a 4x3 m2 floor one could use PVA mixed with the fine dust of the floor sanding process, but which PVA? When I did my kitchen tops I used some PVA to add impermeability but I used the wrong PVA. I also wondered how to do this because it could turn into a gluey mess? and then I wont be able to sand it out with the machine?
I am using Bono traffic. Could I not mix the dust with this lacquer instead. After all, it will all be lacquered at the end with Bono traffic.
Great work, with professional knowledge and experience . Whoever placed thumbs down absolute moron! Thumbs up buddy to all your hard work👍🤗 thank you for your videos , keep up with great work 👍
Cheers that was very helpful...............I feel I could give it ago lol.........Cheers Claire in South Yorkshire
Thanks Ben I have been studying your videos for a few weeks now planning to repair a 100 year old mahogany parquet floor. I have studied your finishing video. My question is at what stage would you fill the floor. ie after 80 grit sanding before the 120grit sanding? Also what type of lacquer do you use to finish ?
This info is all on the website make sure you know before you start
what laquer do you use and where can i get it from please
mix in a plastic bucket like plaster, add dust to the lenco, mix with plastic paint stir, very quick.
way to go mate! thanks from CA, USA
I great vid thx very helpful so will that also give a good finish? Can you tell me what you used many thx
You are awesome. My floor is a mess. I need to replace some boards, and then sand, fill and refinish. Do you like water based or oil finishes? My floors are 90 years old and never redone
thats great because, the floor has been reserved all that time for you! I prefer water based finishes myself. There is a free ebook on my website where I discuss all the products, lacquers, filllers, stains and more, that I use and recommend. Check it out here howtosandafloor.com/products
Thanks man that is amazing - better get some solvent for my floors and SAVE THAT DUST!
It appears the original owner (built 1920s) was hasty when they put their hardwood floors in and didn't let the wood dry on site. As a result the transverse gaps in between panels are as much as a few millimeters. Any suggestions? Best I can think would be to hammer in a shim and trim/sand it flush. But my first instinct on stuff like this has been pretty terrible in the past :P
Does this filler stand out too much after everything is stained and finished? The boss has me use this premade wood filler but only on edges or very apparent nail holes or gashes but it makes me wonder why there wasn't a way to fill in the whole floor. Sometimes the little round holes from nails get really dark on their circumferences when we do dark stains which is why I was wondering. Not sure if I just didn't fill the holes properly or if it's the wood filler or what.
Hello, great video and I learned a lot. I live in the US and don't think I have access to Lecol 7500. Is there another solvent filler you would recommend?
Great video, wish we could have seen pictures of the finished floor
I saw guy sand floor 20year.he hand sharing can't stop