Forgot to mention 2 things in the video. First, the motor and pulley were purchased from www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/. By far the best prices and service. Ordered on a Saturday, received the engine Wednesday, the pulley Thursday. They also answered a question via online chat. Also, the MTT or "Type" code that appears after 33S877 is 0019-G1. I don't know the exact decoder for the "Type", but 0019-G1 has: remote controls, fuel pump, oil pump, choke-a-matic, muffler, 9A DC alternator, 12V gear drive starter, suppress afterfire solenoid. Also, one other minor update. I noticed afterwards that the new clamp and screw for the throttle cable WERE in the bag with the muffler deflector and screws, so I wouldn't have needed to re-use those which means the only re-used item was the starter cable nut.
i did forget to mention if you purchase a new replacement engine or a used engine. for machines with an electric PTO clutch a higher amperage alternator is a must. some machines the anti afterfire solenoid can be tied into the safety switches on the lawn tractor. as others the safety switches are tied in to the kill circuit in the magneto coil. to swap this briggs engine to an older machine without an afterfire solenoid a wire to the key on to the ignition switch is a must. as some machine brands can vary.
There are a few snap rings on mine, so probably need to remove those to get it off. What happened that cause your deck to need a complete replacement of that? A lot of times, it's just the bearings that need replaced.
It did start right up after adding oil. The old engine had been eating oil for 3 years and the head gasket blew a few times. It seemed like it wasn't sealing up right even with a new gasket. I had adjusted the rocker clearances several times too. I finally just got fed up with tinkering with it, plus I have a crap ton of leaves in the fall, so the extra HP is a welcome addition. I don't mind fixing things, but as I get older, I have less tolerance for fixing the same thing over and over.
@@rickb.4555 That sounds like the rocker cover. I had that problem at one point too. Bought a gasket online. Part number 272475. 4 bolts. It's a 5 minute job. Torque the 4 rocker cover bolts to 60 in lbs. That's inch lbs, not ft lb
I have the same mower and a blown engine. The direct replacement engine is no longer available. I am looking into doing this engine swap since you have had good luck with it. I was told that the original engine had a 16 amp charging system, where most (including the engine you swapped to I believe) use 9 amp charging systems. Any problems or weird things with the electrical on your mower after going to this engine? Also can you point me in the right direction of the pulley? Thanks!
The new 0019-G1 engine is 9Amp per the spec sheet. The old engine, I'm not 100% sure because the Briggs alternator manual shows 10A, 13A, or 16A on the same page for the old alternator. Anyway, to your question, the answer is that I've had no electrical issues so far although I'm holding you responsible if you jinx me by making me say that I've had no problems! For the pulley, I ordered it from the same web site ( www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com ) and the part number was 756-0978B. Obviously, my recommendation is to go for it and change the engine but don't let the new one run low on oil which is probably what happened to your old if you blew the whole motor and not just a head gasket. Form the habit by checking the oil each and every time before you use the mower. Good luck. Let me know how things turn out for you.
Not cutting on your choice of engines, I always loved B & S engines, I bought a new Craftsman tractor with that engine in 2014, read the reviews first, everyone said NOT to get that motor. I did anyway, I'm in my 70's so i'm not beating on it, after 3 year's it exploded just like they said. I bought a used tractor for the engine, a different B & S one cyl. sold the tractor (I did run it a couple years after that). got a new Cub Cadet XT2 , with a Kohler V twin. So far I love it. Never even liked a Kohler before. Not sure about Kohlers, but a company like B & S that can't make a starter that will start a 7 to 1 compression engine without a compression release (They break, you can't start it then). Has serious engineering problems. Hope yours works and lives longer than mine did. Again not cutting on them, just telling about my experience with B & S.
@@shotguncamaro1214 Thank you for the comment. The decision for most DIYers is going to be about finding the most direct drop in replacement and possibly also a new engine that has some parts that are interchangeable from the old engine. That's what it came down to in my case, so I never set out to find the best brand replacement since doing so may have involved much more work to get it to fit in the mower. Most Briggs OHV issues I've seen start with a blown or compromised head gasket and eventually lead to a blown engine if not addressed. I'm curious, did your engine just blow or did it have the head gasket issue, then unchecked low oil and the domino issues which led to it eventually blowing? My old B&S OHV (which still does run) was from 2004 and had over 3000 hours on it, so that was a pretty good run.
Some of these Cub Cadet/MTD tractors had a Kohler Courage engine which has many problems with as this briggs engine will replace these Kohler engines. If you replace this engine with a older Kohler Command or a Kawasaki Fc420V engine the fabrication of the exhaust is a must to fab a pipe to fit into the existing muffler as the exhaust port on both these engines is on the bottom of the cylinder head. as the older Kohler Command and the Kawasaki are very reliable engines. Briggs supplied the muffler as this engine can mount to older MTD tractors and some rear engine riding mowers a zero turn mower or commercial walk behind mower these engines are typically placed on.
This definitely isn't the video for step by step. I wouldn't recommend taking on a project like this unless you're comfortable with filling in the missing steps since every tractor is going to be a little different.
I really need to get better with editing so I can piece together video clips and show more steps in my videos. Next time I have to pull the clutch, I'll post a video. Pretty simple though. Just one bolt.
My 20 hp Kohler courage has given me GREAT results so far. UNLIKE the Simplicity with 20hp B&S v-twin. This engine lasted 320 hours before it exploded internally while it was under warranty. B&S would NOT stand behind it.
Hey sorry to hear that about your Briggs. Any idea what the failure was and were there any signs leading up to the point where it blew? I've heard overall that the Kohlers seem to be better, though my dad did have one of those blow on him too. I think the other brand one notch up is Kawasaki, but I've never run into one of those.
Forgot to mention 2 things in the video. First, the motor and pulley were purchased from www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/. By far the best prices and service. Ordered on a Saturday, received the engine Wednesday, the pulley Thursday. They also answered a question via online chat. Also, the MTT or "Type" code that appears after 33S877 is 0019-G1. I don't know the exact decoder for the "Type", but 0019-G1 has: remote controls, fuel pump, oil pump, choke-a-matic, muffler, 9A DC alternator, 12V gear drive starter, suppress afterfire solenoid. Also, one other minor update. I noticed afterwards that the new clamp and screw for the throttle cable WERE in the bag with the muffler deflector and screws, so I wouldn't have needed to re-use those which means the only re-used item was the starter cable nut.
thanks for taking the time very informative
Did you only have to connect 1 cable from mower for the slow and fast?
No, there are two cables. At approximately the 7:30 point I explain that you have the throttle cable for dast slow and also the black choke cable.
i did forget to mention if you purchase a new replacement engine or a used engine. for machines with an electric PTO clutch a higher amperage alternator is a must. some machines the anti afterfire solenoid can be tied into the safety switches on the lawn tractor. as others the safety switches are tied in to the kill circuit in the magneto coil. to swap this briggs engine to an older machine without an afterfire solenoid a wire to the key on to the ignition switch is a must. as some machine brands can vary.
How do you replace the double pulley on the deck
There are a few snap rings on mine, so probably need to remove those to get it off. What happened that cause your deck to need a complete replacement of that? A lot of times, it's just the bearings that need replaced.
I have the same exact replacement engine but I'm getting no spark from the ignition coil.
Did it start right up ? What was wrong with the old engine ?
It did start right up after adding oil. The old engine had been eating oil for 3 years and the head gasket blew a few times. It seemed like it wasn't sealing up right even with a new gasket. I had adjusted the rocker clearances several times too. I finally just got fed up with tinkering with it, plus I have a crap ton of leaves in the fall, so the extra HP is a welcome addition. I don't mind fixing things, but as I get older, I have less tolerance for fixing the same thing over and over.
@@Redneck_Ed my 1018 has an oil drip in the front and goes right on the exhaust manifold. I'm thinking about repacing the whole engine
@@rickb.4555 That sounds like the rocker cover. I had that problem at one point too. Bought a gasket online. Part number 272475. 4 bolts. It's a 5 minute job. Torque the 4 rocker cover bolts to 60 in lbs. That's inch lbs, not ft lb
@@Redneck_Ed got the rocker gasket changed. So far so good. Thanks for your help.
Well, mine finally died. What was that part number you ordered? Thanks
I have the same mower and a blown engine. The direct replacement engine is no longer available. I am looking into doing this engine swap since you have had good luck with it. I was told that the original engine had a 16 amp charging system, where most (including the engine you swapped to I believe) use 9 amp charging systems. Any problems or weird things with the electrical on your mower after going to this engine? Also can you point me in the right direction of the pulley? Thanks!
The new 0019-G1 engine is 9Amp per the spec sheet. The old engine, I'm not 100% sure because the Briggs alternator manual shows 10A, 13A, or 16A on the same page for the old alternator. Anyway, to your question, the answer is that I've had no electrical issues so far although I'm holding you responsible if you jinx me by making me say that I've had no problems! For the pulley, I ordered it from the same web site ( www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com ) and the part number was 756-0978B. Obviously, my recommendation is to go for it and change the engine but don't let the new one run low on oil which is probably what happened to your old if you blew the whole motor and not just a head gasket. Form the habit by checking the oil each and every time before you use the mower. Good luck. Let me know how things turn out for you.
@@Redneck_Ed Thanks for the information!
Not cutting on your choice of engines, I always loved B & S engines, I bought a new Craftsman tractor with that engine in 2014, read the reviews first, everyone said NOT to get that motor. I did anyway, I'm in my 70's so i'm not beating on it, after 3 year's it exploded just like they said. I bought a used tractor for the engine, a different B & S one cyl. sold the tractor (I did run it a couple years after that). got a new Cub Cadet XT2 , with a Kohler V twin. So far I love it. Never even liked a Kohler before. Not sure about Kohlers, but a company like B & S that can't make a starter that will start a 7 to 1 compression engine without a compression release (They break, you can't start it then). Has serious engineering problems. Hope yours works and lives longer than mine did. Again not cutting on them, just telling about my experience with B & S.
@@shotguncamaro1214 Thank you for the comment. The decision for most DIYers is going to be about finding the most direct drop in replacement and possibly also a new engine that has some parts that are interchangeable from the old engine. That's what it came down to in my case, so I never set out to find the best brand replacement since doing so may have involved much more work to get it to fit in the mower. Most Briggs OHV issues I've seen start with a blown or compromised head gasket and eventually lead to a blown engine if not addressed. I'm curious, did your engine just blow or did it have the head gasket issue, then unchecked low oil and the domino issues which led to it eventually blowing? My old B&S OHV (which still does run) was from 2004 and had over 3000 hours on it, so that was a pretty good run.
Some of these Cub Cadet/MTD tractors had a Kohler Courage engine which has many problems with as this briggs engine will replace these Kohler engines. If you replace this engine with a older Kohler Command or a Kawasaki Fc420V engine the fabrication of the exhaust is a must to fab a pipe to fit into the existing muffler as the exhaust port on both these engines is on the bottom of the cylinder head. as the older Kohler Command and the Kawasaki are very reliable engines. Briggs supplied the muffler as this engine can mount to older MTD tractors and some rear engine riding mowers a zero turn mower or commercial walk behind mower these engines are typically placed on.
I need step by step. Thanks.
This definitely isn't the video for step by step. I wouldn't recommend taking on a project like this unless you're comfortable with filling in the missing steps since every tractor is going to be a little different.
@@Redneck_Ed thanks. I got support people. Plus, its a month to 6 weeks before anyone can look at so it's up to me. ARMY ALL THE WAY!
Having trouble finding exhaust pipe. Where did you get yours?
I reused my old pipe.
Where did you get motor and what did you pay for it ?
I have a comment with all of that info.
why didn`t you explain taken the drive clutch off. it was nice to talk about it but a video showing would have been much better !
I really need to get better with editing so I can piece together video clips and show more steps in my videos. Next time I have to pull the clutch, I'll post a video. Pretty simple though. Just one bolt.
My 20 hp Kohler courage has given me GREAT results so far. UNLIKE the Simplicity with 20hp B&S v-twin. This engine lasted 320 hours before it exploded internally while it was under warranty. B&S would NOT stand behind it.
Hey sorry to hear that about your Briggs. Any idea what the failure was and were there any signs leading up to the point where it blew? I've heard overall that the Kohlers seem to be better, though my dad did have one of those blow on him too. I think the other brand one notch up is Kawasaki, but I've never run into one of those.
How much was the engine
$560, free shipping