Does My Electric Hummer have a KEY? - Time for some LED upgrades!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2021
- Today we finish off the brains of the 12 volt system. HUGE thanks to Oshcut again for laser cutting my dash panel: www.OshCut.com (not sponsored, they are just awesome.) In this video we start installing the important 12v components, like the headlights, blinkers, tail lights, along with the horn and the key to start the ignition. (And by ignition, I mean... relay that controls a fuse panel. )
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JerryRigEverything assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. JerryRigEverything recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of JerryRigEverything, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not JerryRigEverything. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.
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JerryRigEverything assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. JerryRigEverything recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of JerryRigEverything, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not JerryRigEverything. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
After completing this project, I hope we will see more such projects
Really loving this series!!
Same mate!!
@@imakeeditsiwillbeatevil9346 its quite different from his content, yet so much fun
I wait for humvee videos now
@@GareebScientist aree aap bhi dekh rahe hai btw big fan 🔥🙏
@@ayushshaw5446 thanks bhai 🙏🏼
@@imakeeditsiwillbeatevil9346 hmm let me help u
“It’s like a tank and a Prius had a baby, and the delivery doctor was Frankenstein” is the best advertising slogan ever. I hope that gets used on all the billboards.
@@lion7942 not everything has to be a conspiracy.
Use both horns.. They supposed to be a pair. Also add a relay to that circuit too.
Edit 1 : It would be better if you get power through relays for the headlights. Although the switch 10A rated I don't think it's gonna last that long with switching back & forth for Hi Lo. Also you can draw more power from that line in the future if you ever wanted.
Would be nice for him to notice this. Was gonna comment the same.
Would be funny to see him put on a train horn or the old Cadillac 4-tone horn setup LMAO
relays are good.... switches are bad ....
Swapping out the light assemblies was the right move. The diffusers on the original assemblies were designed to work with incandescent bulbs that throw light in all directions, and often don't work as well with drop-in LED replacements, meaning your lights aren't as visible as they should be. Putting in new LED assemblies that are designed to work with their diffusers improves road safety.
I was thinking it would be nice to keep it as original as possible, but the point about installing LED's in an assembly made for incandescents is a valid one. I was surprised Zack was able to find replacements that fit so well.
I just realized I'm worried about keeping the Hummer original and Zack is replacing the entire piston engine drive train with electric. LOL.
@@LV2XPLR Hey, no, I totally get it. I think what Zack is doing is great, and that's why I'm here. And frankly, it's probably the route I would go, too (though I'm leaning more Ariel Atom/Nomad style kit car). But I would totally love to see how someone would pull off a military Hummer electric conversion while making it look completely original/ordinary from the outside. I've seen a couple other conversions that do that, and it's always fun.
It's also illegal to install LED bulbs in a Reflector housing in most states.
I agree but hope he levels them eventually they look pointed pretty high now.
@@bloodgain I suspect that he will have to do a DOT inspection with all the motifcations done to it. At a certain point motifcations make it a whole new vehicle.
Hats off to the guy who's learning, explaining, building and filming at the same time. 🤯🤯🙏🏻🙏🏻.
And making money
@@sktr_mercer So what do you expect ?? Charity ??
Absolutely!
@@siddheshsaraf5013 yes exactly!!!
@@sktr_mercer But I don't see your name as a sponsor anywhere in the video. So what's bothering you ??
This is my favorite project going on now on TH-cam. Thank you Zack
also collin's bunker
Yep, I am always waiting for the next video release
U should also like Rich Rebuilds V8 tesla it's the opposite of this project
Ditto that buddy
Awesome project waiting on new video , let's go 🚶♂️
I came across this project by TH-cam suggestion. He has such a calm clear voice while talking about every step he is doing. I love it. I’m from Switzerland and of course English is not my native language, but I could watch every episode without any struggles. Amazing explanations and his clear voice lets forget myself that I was this in English. Could listen to this project all day long 😊
let's take a moment to appreciate the lack of loud and annoying background music 🙏
Thanks for pointing that out.
I don’t understand you tubers that put that Muzak garbage in their video’s
@@JB-mn2gu especially the ear popping volume stuff when they're whispering in the video itself ...
Just for that I am going to yammer on in my videos too. No more fast forward thru my builds.
@@JB-mn2gu For me it is because I fast forward thru my builds after I explain. Lots of folks have opinions on the music, mostly don't like it. But, I don't have a lot of time for editing, so I fast forward.
Not putting a background music makes it more enjoyable to watch and made me really pay attention to every detail Zack explains.
For real every rebuild channel plays the same EDM loops
As a hard-of-hearing person, I have trouble hearing dialogue over music. This is very helpful. Also, as a hard-of-hearing person, I'd recommend wearing ear protection when honking horns in a garage or using power tools in a garage. Once you lose your hearing, it's gone, and all hearing damage is cumulative.
i didnt even realize there wasnt music until you mentioned it lol
Friendly tip, when using LEDs that will sit behind a color filter, be it red or amber, try to find a bulb with matching color temperature, this way 90%+ of the light will just pass right through the filter. With white much of the light will just be absorbed by the filter reducing the percieved brightness, or require more power to get the same brightness
What?
@@wongtong754 He's saying that shining white light through a yellow or red filter means most of the light from the white LED is blocked by the filter. If you get a yellow LED and shine it through a yellow filter, or red LED/red filter, the filter won't block much of the light so you don't waste energy on light that is just getting blocked anyway.
@@Kyouki_IE
How much energy are you talking because the source is enough energy to propel a hummer
@@wongtong754 I'm just explaining what denvera meant. It's not my tip, it's his. It would save a small amount of energy, but it's more about not wasting energy for no reason if you don't have to.
@@Kyouki_IE
How much loss are we talkin? You want to defend his statement and speak for him then answer the question. How much loss.
If you're going to use T-Taps on a connection in a location like that, I'd suggest using some dielectric grease on the connections to help insulate them from weather and moisture. Splicing the wiring directly with solder and heatshrink would be a better idea though.
Agreed, that t-tap has no weather resistance.
Was looking for anyone else commenting on using that t-tap, I wouldn't use those unless stock on the side of the road and that was my only way to get my car going.
I'm just worried about all those vibrations that will loosen it up. Cringed when he did it, I know he just didn't want to spend the extra time and effort :(
@@jason454ss t-taps are created from the devils butt hole
I was thinking the same thing, but honestly after thinking about it I don't think it's such a big deal. If it was something for a client I'd say it's an awful idea. But worst case scenario he goes a few days without DRL or side markers and has to fix it. I've heard the heat shrink butt connectors arn't the best either, but I don't think they're anywhere as bad.
When you've finished testing, add some electrical grease into each of the waterproof connectors
Water can't get in if any remaining gaps behind the rubber seals are already full of something else
This is why tekcos moved to grease-filled field joints 50 years ago. Automakers are starting to do the same thing 20 years after widespread adoption of weather sealing
Add back that *" Engine OFF - Run - Start "* board over the key slot... it's Super cool ♥️
Please
I don't think you need that in a electric car
@@user-rw4rc7mj3e why not, it's like "off - accessories only - fully turn on" but yeah i do think he need to change the name of the labels
@@user-rw4rc7mj3e it's not about "need"
@@user-rw4rc7mj3e But it still looks dope
Love the build. A few notes:
- Longevity and reliability of t-tap connectors is poor, especially due to moisture/corrosion and damaging the harness. Look into Posi-tap connectors if you decide to not cut, solder, and seal the connection yourself, which maybe you’re doing later and I missed it!
- Something I learned later than I should have: liquid electrical tape exists.
- Typically reverse lights are on the bottom, no? You do you, bro :)
- What color would you paint it? I’m a bit biased to loving the og color it’s rocking currently. ⚡️
- If you really want to get fancy, wire in both horns. The dual tones will create a cool harmony that really grabs attention.
- Massive props to you for tackling this huge project and new to you challenges within it.
- Yes, it is absolutely, 100% necessary to flip a switch multiple times after mounting it! 🙂
Positaps are only marginally better that t-tap? Maybe use a splice crimp along with heat-shrink with internal glue.
And yes, reverse lights should be on the bottom. Legally I think it's OK? but the legal height dimension spec is lower for reversing/fog lights than for brake lights, so I guess that's the desired orientation
@@____________________________.x Yes and no. Name brand Posi-taps have a waterproof version that seals. Aside from that, to me the fact they leave a small gauge hole in the insulation that can be more easily sealed versus a vampire clip is better.
But I think you and I would both agree that a splice crimp or soldering with glued heat shrink and liquid electrical tape is best.
I Agree. This vehicle originally came with MIL-SPEC electrical connections.
If he expects longevity and durability, he should immediately replace that t-tap garbage.
Not only is it not reliable, it purposely makes an unprotected penetration of the donor wire’s insulation.
Now, that wire is free to turn green-black as it corrodes.
Also, these EV-HMMWV videos, although they contain very interesting subject matter and Jerry is an excellent host and editor, they do contain factual errors.
In this episode, he referred to using a “voltmeter” to check current draw on the LED headlights. At the time, he was using the “ammeter” function of his “multimeter” to measure current.
He could use a “voltmeter” to infer current flow through the headlight, but he would need to measure the resistance of the headlight, measure the voltage drop across the terminals and then do some simple math.
Lastly, it appears he wishes to share correct information with his viewers.
If that is the case, he should refer to his vehicle low voltage DC system as a “14V” system (not 12V).
I had pointed out to him in a previous video that his DC-DC converter does not produce 12 volts, but instead puts out 13.6-14.2V to charge his lead acid battery that has a nominal resting OCV of 12.75 volts (depending on temperature).
Unfortunately, my comments have fallen on deaf ears.
Regardless of these factual errors, I am still enjoying the show.
@@Stepclimb I can 100% sympathize with your knowledge and observations! Although I will add that this is a TH-cam video and not a forum conversation where “Jerry” is asking for advice. He does state in the video that this is his first time doing most of these projects. Perhaps a more noticeable disclaimer would be helpful to viewers who may decide to tackle some diy wiring projects of their own and wish to not burn anything to a crisp.
and when you are going😇🤬🤮🤧🤢🤕🤒
This is an awesome build. Wish I had the means and finances to do one also. I’m sure Arnold would be interested when you finish.
1. The connectors you are using are designed for a “closed” or well insulated cars and trucks. For this Humvee, you will NEED marine grade stuff (shrink tube, etc.) There’s no seals or insulation anywhere on this humvee. Even your instrument panel will get wet when it rains. Especially if you planned to take her off-road into deep water. Silicone filled connectors are highly recommended.
2. Head and tail lights should be wired through relays in 6 different circuits. Even though one switch can handle it. Left head light, right head lights, left and right parking lights, drl, and turn signals, all with separate fuses. For war zone, it’s okay the way it is. But for street, you will need secured lights.
3. Can’t you ground to the chassis? It’ll save you a lot of wires. Military don’t use chassis ground because they disassemble the vehicles and share parts across the fleet. For you, it will be best if you add ground straps all metal body parts and run chassis ground.
4. Since you laser cut the panels, why do etching? Cut through the plate and run led back light for the labels.
5. Original horn could’ve been kept with a dc-dc converter.
6. It’s interesting you center punch the rivets before drilling them out. Can you explain the reasoning?
I'm really enjoying this series! It's simple enough that really anyone can do it. Provided they have the budget of course.
Maybe you should consider a 3-way switch for the headlights/brights. The button combination seems like a hassle and potentially a recipe for mistakes.
I hope the solder joints don't come back to haunt you. I think it was big Clive that showed the solder barely penetrates the strands.
best to crimp then solder the crimp then heat shrink the whole shabang
I would get one the old foot clicker switches we used to have in vehicles for switching between low beam and high beam. I still miss it.
@@donbot5000 tin the wires, crimp, then reflow
I come for the grooves at a level 6 with deeper grooves at a level 7, but honestly these hummer videos have been some of my favorite videos you've ever done. It's fascinating watching you build this electric Hummer every step of the way!
You should definitely wire in both horns. You usually get a tri-tone interval on dual-tone horns, but a minor third (especially at that amplitude) will get people's attention.
100% this
Truck air horn is the way to go, plus if you have a compressor and a tank then you can use air tools on the go 😅
Yeah, this ☝. The two horns work in tandem to create a dissonant sound that's a lot more noticeable in the din of traffic. Have the same thing on my bike and it makes a huge difference if one of the horns gets accidentally unplugged (been there).
"we'll have to see how these t-tap connectors hold up over time"
Spoiler, they don't.
Another "flavor" of those is scotch locks, and they are pretty terrible. They open the conductor of the wires to water intrusion and corrosion. I'd recommend a waterproof splice if you would like it to last long term. Really enjoying your video series though!
Beat me to it. They will fail. Love the project. Very ambitious.
I was checking if someone already said it 🙃
Anyone else thinks that video's for this series coming too slowly. But then I think the time effort it takes to search, read, confirm, apply, film and then edit all of the things recorded takes time...lol :D
Loving the series. Keep going.
"They didn't need a key because whole crew was carrying M16s. I don't have M16 so I need a key". I am dead.
"Crue"
I am dead.
@@dumbledont247 Thank you kind person.
He does carry a Glock tho...
"4 Amps ... and a headache" was equally funny.
@@thelionprince4530 who doesn't?
I simply love this series. Not only he is working so hard on a project he has no knowledge about, he s also filming, editing, making jokes and making a fun learning processes. Thank you so much for this series. I already can t wait for the next part.
There is something very satisfying working on something that you can understand, is standardised and well documented.
Probably repeating someone, but at 20:24 a Step drill works wonders in sheet metal!
And at 21:21, a Miracle, a Step Drill appears!🧞👍
I learned more today than I did in my 8th grade electronics class.
Then you were enrolled in wrong school.
Shush
Electronic class in 8th grade??
Probably because it was 8th grade electronic class.
It is so interesting to view this series of video. Thanks 😊
Suggestion: have the blue button ring come on when the lights are off (or their non-normal state). That way, the light reminds you to turn them on and normal ops (especially at night) is lights out, dark panel. Airplane cockpit philosophy, a light indicates there’s a problem.
I dont think he needs a reminder to turn the lights on with the project he is currently doing. To turn off the right lights which you want, you can add a clip on panel to it with black rubber covering the lights
17:23 install those both horn together. You'll get a really pleasant tone. I have it on my Bike installed together.
That connector method at 25:45 (and your subsequent butt splice + extra glue-lined heatshrink) is how to splice correctly; that T-join you used earlier in the video will likely cause corrosion issues. One other tip for the extra black glue-line heatshrink you used: spread apart the double-ended wires and get a bull-nose pliers between then, clamping down on just the heatshrink between the wires. This will create a good waterproof seal.
Kinda wish you had stuck with the old selector switches instead of the fancy buttons, but I'm just nostalgic that way.
And the label above should be kept... But it's his car after all... :-P
Same
This above all! The selectors are a must in this vehicle. Pls reconsider
Let the man make his car the way he wants to. He's the one who'll be living with it.
I agree, but for a different reason. The ridiculously bright blue lights on the buttons can degrade your night vision while driving at night which is dangerous. I know this from experience because the previous owner of my car replaced the standard radio, cd/tape player and clock with the cheapest chinesium drop in radio that has blue illuminated buttons. The buttons glow blue in the daylight but at night they shine so damn bright they light up the inside of my car, shining in my face. A replacement stock console unit is only about $50 but it’s hard to find a working one with the code. Anyway those led light rings on the buttons should be dimmed permanently with resistors so that they glow without shining so brightly.
When replacing the light bulbs for LEDs make sure that the light emitter part is somewhat close to where the filament would have been. The plastic lens that goes in front of the light bulbs acts like a magnifying glass that help the light beam to spread in the right pattern, if you change where the light is emitted then the effective brightness can be reduced quite significantly, even though the LED is probably brighter than the filament bulb.
Someone watches technology connections :))))
That would be relevant, except it appeared he then replaced the entire assembly with one built to use LEDs.
@@mateilicaret2904 Exactly what I thought! ;)
your intro with the mrs definitely deserves a thumbs up :) I have been going back and forth catching up on your hummer build for a while now. ABSOLUTELY loving it. I loved the H1 since they released it and remember back in the 80s when some highschool kids in my town stole one from the factory that was installing the highly classified radio systems (I was at the time too young to really care, but it practically sparked a national security crisis if you listened to the grownups talk :) I do imagine the soldiers who where assigned to gate security got a "stern talking to" by someone in their chain of command)
Hey Zack,
After you compete the wiring 12V system, shorten all the wires for required length and tie them together.Them unplug all the ports and take the wire set out. And them using that as a template and build a proper wire harness ( with quality wires, quality joints, fire/water/shock proof covering/ official wire colors ) and install it to the humvee.
Anyway can't wait for the next video comeout.
Need a horn that plays
"Scratches at a level 6, deeper grooves at a level 7"
Yass
The alarm. The horn should be a freight train.
🤣🤣🤣
Please do not use those T-Taps again for any connections. I know they are convenient, but there is also a very high chance that you'll damage the wire that these are connected to, reducing their diameter effectively.
Now this is bad since in the worst case, the now damaged wire will act as the fuse instead of the actual fuse since this is now your "weakest" spot in the circuit.
They can also add resistance to a circuit at their location, causing heat and melt insulation or even sparking a fire.
As a recommendation, use 3- or 4- way spade terminals instead and put all these connectors in a small water tight box or route the wires in such a way that they are inside of the indicator- or light housings.
Yeah, they are less than ideal. It's definitely convenience over function. I think that since they are used in an extremely minor circuit, probably max 2 amps, he will be fine. 😊
@@rognio3 they are typically used in automotive applications. He should be fine. This isn't a daily driver after all.
These are LEDs, they're pulling like a 1/4 amp.
It doesn't matter if the the circuit attached with the T-Taps draws little or even no power or if it's a daily driver or not.
The wire that the T-Taps are clamped onto will almost always be damaged, reducing the diameter of the wire and therefore the max load the cable can safely handle.
@@TheBoltDingo yes, but the the amount of power the circuit draws is extremely important 😂. If the wire is 50x larger than necessary for the circuit, and you damage it a little, then it's still overkill 🤷, and safe
I enjoy this entire series sooo much. The detailed and thorough explanations. The trial-and-error process... simply wonderful!...
this has been such an amazing educational experience!!!! I love how you dont just put it all together and film it, you can explain it piece by piece. like i never knew what a relay did or how it worked.
Why the hell was I smiling when the hood and lights were on?
Amazing series, learning a lot Jerry. Thank you.
That part was so satisfying!
A. "Jerry" has a good sense of humour
B. Love the Tesla hat while creating your own Frankenstein's monster of a vehicle
24:35 You can close the LED indicator circuit for the bright through the NO light button. This way both buttons turn off together, and it remembers your setting.
Horn- small compressed air tank+ ship horn. Can't wait to see how the cooling system is done for the inverter and motors. Also better starts with good wiring installation practice, lot of small wires you have there.
Alternator may needed to charge the 12v battery.
Cambry's voice acting skills are spot on
On Horns: Most modern cars use two horns with different frequencies.
Usually one "high" and one "low" as different frequencies carry different distances and penetrate through different materials differently.
Or just use a pneumatic train horn instead.
Let everyone in a 12 mile radius know you're on the road.
@@user-xu2pi6vx7o lol
@@user-xu2pi6vx7o Yes
@@user-xu2pi6vx7o Are you aiming to compete with Monstermax 2? Hear the horn from the valley on the other side of the mountain range?
@@Avetho We're talking about a warzoned humvee, powered by the electric engine from an airline tug, using enough batteries to power a house for a week.
This is not the kind of low key project, to deserve the low key horn it got.
If ever there was a case to be made "for go big or go home", this is it.
Of course we should complete!
Wicked project!! Love how you explain everything you do so clearly, can't wait to see this thing moving down the road under it's own power! Thinking someone needs to put a kit together with all the components you've used so other DIYers can do the same thing, there must be tons of Hummers out there looking for new lives. Keep the videos coming, looking forward to the next one. Hello from Picton, NZ.
You have no idea how many people you are impacting with this project. Truly influential and revolutionary. How you dissect what you are doing and how you are doing it…by far my favourite TH-cam channel!👌🏾 All the way from South Africa.🇿🇦
if you took the old handle ignition and made it the key you could still have that little lever but have it be removable as a charming key
Or just leave the original switch, and put the key elsewhere as anti-theft.
For that matter, would be better to install one of those wiring harness scramblers, as a key is kinda crap for anti-theft in a vehicle with such easy access to the wires.
@@Nevir202 yeah a key in a electric vehicle is weird
It’s cool how everything in this car was using “more” to output “less” than what he’s installing, really shows how more efficient vehicles are becoming.
Thanks for creating these series! I'm satisfied with the wiring, everything was flush! Impressive workmanship!
For the T tap connectors, if you add some dielectric grease on the bare wire it may work for a while. That wire exposed to water, mud, salt in the winter you may get bad connections from corrosion. I like a little dielectric grease even in my heat shrink connections. Just a little extra time but you don't have to do the job twice. You are doing great on the build and very interested in the whole build
I cannot tell you how much I love this project of yours Zack. I would even guess it's your best performing videos. Awesome!
It's an awesome series!
Use both horns. The most effective horns are multi-tone, as you'll find on many new vehicles today.
I am a bit sad you didn't work in the original light and ignition switches, but the stainless led-futureish stuff mixed with the military humvee style makes for a cool asthetic.
Correct i think those two come together.
i have the exact same kit, you definitely use both. I love that horn
What he was going to do would be unsafe, LED bulbs should never be fitted in a housing not designed for them. The lens is designed very precisely for an incandescant bulb.
It is actually illegal I believe, it voids the light housing's compliance with road laws.
Otherwise he'd need to keep incandescant bulbs, which drain power quickly from the battery. Fine in petrol vehicles, but not an electric car...
@@briannem.6787 ya I seen that video, watched a lot of his videos but I do question that one. Wish he had proof on that one
Unless you go very cheap theyvwill usually have the type of car it's Made for.
Unless it's a military hummer then there is probably not going yo be a housing unit for that design
@@knightwolf3511 It will never be quite precise enough.
If it was legal and safe, we'd already have phased out incandescant vehicle bulbs.
You also are going to want to put things in wire loom. This will protect the wires. Try to keep the slit facing the ground so it will not hold water. This is good for both inside and outside of the vehicle. Inside the vehicle they can rub against sharp edges of the dash or the hole you drilled. You can also use a grommit or just silicone/rtv it at the hole to limit water/dirt ingress.
17:18 I am pretty sure that the horn in normal cars is working even with igninition in off position. It's for safety reasons, when you see some danger sitting in your car you can warn people around by horn without thinking about ignition.
Hey Zack, keep up the good work/content! One note on the horn: I'm not sure about the rules in USA, but you should leave the horn with power at all times for safety purposes. At least here in Europe the horns work (at least in every car I've ever been in) even without the key around. It's only an example, but if you have the key in the off position (or not there at all) and someone is backing up against your car, you should be able to buzz the horn and potentially prevent any damages (to the other car... advantages of you driving a tank! haha).
and when you are going😇🤬🤮🤧🤢🤕🤒
it occurred to him that the🔮🛢🗿⚱️⚰️🚬
wolf might have devoured the🚱🚯🚭🚳🚫⛔️🔞
@Angela Merkel lol
At least in the VWs that I regularly interact with, this is not the case. The horn only works if the ignition is on.
Whenever you need to cut a metal plate to mount things use CAD first, Cardboard Assisted Design.
this deserve more likes😂 btw generally cad stands for computer assisted design and he said cardboard is funny 😂
I worked on all HMMVW in the marine corps. Just loved working on them. Man I wish I could be there with you
The best part was that lovely laser cut drivers side panel with "Turret, Cloak and Eject". Very James Bond :)
Zack: But, if you ever wanna ride with me, just keep in mind that eject button might be wild
Roman Pearce: Ejecto seato cuz
You should probably lower the fuse to 5A for the Horn, as you already know that it wont ever exceed 4A. If it would, then something is wrong and the fuse should blow. 10A is too high of a risk to just let "through" that horn, if it ever fails for some reason. Its more than double the designed Powerdraw and could easily catch on fire before the fuse blows or the cables start getting warm.
I thought that too while I was watching the video
Disagree; Fuses and circuit breakers are used to protect the cable. As long as the cable is rated at 10A then a 10A fuse is optimal. If the appliance pulls more than the rated current it's fucked anyways, and if the cable short circuits to ground the appliance is safe because current will not flow to it. There's nothing wrong with doing what you've suggested but then if you ever add more horns you will blow a fuse if you forget to change it and that's just a waste of a fuse. Imagine if the circuit was powering something more important than a horn, such as the headlights or windscreen wipers and it just blew the fuse even though the cable could still handle the current.
My car has a 10A fuse for a pathetic mono horn. Factory fitted
4:23 First time I ever saw someone punching the rivet core back out before drilling.
Nice trick. I can't wait to try it.
You need a Air Force aircraft electrician as a friend. This is right up our alley. Your current, voltage, relays, wiring, schematics, voltage drops all that is E/E
Jerry, your headlight switch is 10A and you mentioned that the headlight will only pull 4A.
But remember you have 2 headlights = 8A. Which is still under 10A, you are good as long as you don't add more to this connection.
Most horns work even if the key isn't on run, works always. I guess it's a safety thing. So you could put it on one of the "always 12 Volt" circuits
@@eduardosantiago6948 really? I own 5 Volkswagen dating back to the 60s and they all work with the key out. What model are you talking about? You probably had one that someone Frankensteined
Glad you added the fuses, I noticed it in the last video. Now, add rubber grommets to the holes wires pass thru....'cause it bumps around a bit.
On the shrink tube twice front, I like to add a zip tie under the last piece of shrink tube. I have seen wires push the shrink tube up or stretch it out if there is more than one wire. Once that happens the shrink tube becomes a funnel to your connection for dirt, salt and water...
he and his voice is so calm that you automatically start feeling positive and never get bored
“Does my electric Hummer have a key?”
*Yeah! You’re the only KEY.*
Absolutely loving this! Thanks for uploading lots of content on this so quickly. I am totally fascinated by how you plan this out. Look forward to seeing this finished!
You are the doppelgänger of a Marine I had under me. From looks to personality you two are exactly alike, he was such a a nice guy.
I've never seen jerry being this ultra focused. Loving this series
Yaaaa me too!!!!!!!
Jerry is an absolute chad
GigaZack
Ur here for likes again
He absolutely is an insane chad, your kinda sus for saying my channel is sus evil lol
True 💯
🔥
Thanks for the introduction to OSH Cut! I've already used them for a few small projects and their quality and turn time is fantastic
I'm enjoying this build so much, partly because we're learning at the same pace.
Ever since this project started , i've told everyone in my family about it .. I'm an Electric Engineer so it does bring tears of joy to see you doing that .. everyone in my family cheers for you and we really hope you finish this project .. and as i told you before man .. Technology is just smth you never get tired of loving
the differnce between his and other modern cars, hes not linked up to the internet so he doesn't get forced updates which can break the car,
auto updates sounds nice which it is, untill you end up getting 3-8 updates ina row that keeps breaking other things -_-
looking at you windows 10 by Microsoft
JRE the kinda person who would be every kid’s favourite uncle
That might be Mark Rober.
@@aksharlamichhane4459 my two favourite uncle
I cried when you cut the innards of the tail light out. You are OBVIOUSLY way to wire cutter happy.
Love the video man! I stumbled across it by accident, however I want to do something similar! I love the look of the classic hummer, but hate how loud it is and how much gas you burn through with them. Cant wait to see more!
I'm not going to lie but as a former mechanic, a bit of me died inside when you used Scotch locks. they were the bane of my life and I still wake up in cold sweats thinking about them.
Me too,. Customer states “my trailer lights don’t work properly”, let me have a look….. for the love of god why? When you open up the boot covers and find those little blue and red b#&@ards looking up at you.
When making your temp cover plate, I highly recommend CAD. Cardboard Assisted Design. Cheap and easy way to get the job done right. Loving the progress BTW.
1st love this project and this channel. As a 12 volt guy though, PLEASE DONT T TAP ANYTHING EVER. lol. In the shop I was at if someone came in with an issue and it had t taps or schotch locks (more like an inline ttap but no spade connector) it was always 100% of the time the ttap or schotch lock. Always. Without fail. So if you start having connection issues go there 1st. But I have wanted to do this exact project since my mom got a Tesla. It’s been some time. I’m SUPER excited to follow it through to the end just found it last week and finally got some time to watch today and I’ve watch all of them! Cheers mate! Best of luck!!
I love the way you film these videos. Just the sounds of the tools and the parts snapping together. No corny rock or beep boop music. So satisfying
I've been back and forth on this video all day. A glorious 31 minutes worth of content while I work? Worth every second.
This is becoming more frequent a series
I am very very happy
Thank you Zack!
Ikr hope he makes these bids more often
@@imakeeditsiwillbeatevil9346 yessss
me too
I can smell the rubber of the tubing when heated up! Always enjoy JerryRig's School for Electric Horsepower TV everyday! Can't wait to see it finished.
I'm not huge into Hummers.. I'm not huge into DIY... and km not huge into car modifications, but god damn this is the most entertaining and educational series in all of TH-cam I swear.
That garden hose analogy is almost exactly how electricity (voltage specifically) works.
The only thing to keep in mind is the amp ratings of the components compared to the amps going through them. If you have a 10 Amp switch and you wire up 6 Amps to the front lights and 5 Amps to the back the wires and lights won't blow but the switch might.
Imagine being his neighbor
Neighbour: So what are you doing in your garage
Jerry: Oh just building an electric Hummer
Neighbor: 😐
I can’t wait to see the final product, you take the time to explain a lot, I feel like I could tackle this project too
Best YT channel by far. Following this build closely. Love all that I am learning . . Thanks
This is a wonderful project Zack, love to see the progress! 😎
Looking forward for some "crazy" gadgets installed on it.
Cambry nailed the cameo.
On a side note, you both talk so CALMLY.
Sitting here as an Electric Technician letting you explain me my Field and loving your simple but always on point explainations 👍🏻
14:35
Would have sincerely hoped you'd keep the H1 original switches intact. it would have given that original feel to it ..
as always awesome rig video, go Jerry :)
I agree! Would have takes a bit to reverse engineer the connector but I think it's worth it!!!
This cheap wafer lock you used for the ignition switch isn't better than the old keyless switch, it can be picked in a second with practicly anything long thin and sturdy. Especially in a situation where you can't use an immobilizer, use a good lock, I'd recommend Medeco or Mul-T-lock, maybe something like the Kaba Micro
Yea really don't understand this, why change out military grade items for ebay stuff and other plastics. Naw this ain't for me.
Can't help but feel it was a missed opportunity not to mod the military tail lights to give you reverse. Probably a lot more complicated than it seems at first glance but I know you have the skills to do it. The civilian lights just looks so plain and out of place on that awesome machine
Always make sure when converting car lights from incandescent to LED that you are not just changing out bulbs, but you change put the lenses as well. Incandescent bulbs are basically isotropic radiators, whereas LEDs are very much directional. If you don't have a lens that is matched to the LED, your light beams will not have the pattern they were designed for and they may blind oncoming traffic.
Pretty much exciting on every update of the project. Thank you for sharing
This is by far the greatest series on TH-cam as of now. Amazing job with your attention to detail and explaining everything. Always thirsty for more and can't wait for the next one. Thanks Zack.
Keep military gauges:
As the original gauge cluster is so integral to the Military look I suggest you keep it To make it work with 12 Volts.
Purchase a 12 Volt to 24 Volt boost converter good for 10 Amp for about 50.00.
Yes! This!
Yep, and the blue LED things are a bit meh/toytown, the military switches were perfect
I agree with you all. Original switches for lights and gauge cluster are better imo but Jerry has his own taste. He makes it the way he wants it. Im sure he had considered keeping original stuff but eventually deemed them unfitting for his taste.
@@____________________________.x It's Jerry's channel and Jerry's project so he's gonna do it his way, but I would've kept it as military as I could except maybe install some sort of smart switch Key less ignition and maybe alarm system I'm a Vietnam vet, had a 21/2 truck got to like the light switch cluster, modified it by removing a spring in a lever that's part of the interface to keep you from accidentally turning on your light.
9:25 anyone watching in the night, this is the best gift from JerryRigEverything! 😆
Added Benny on the left side horn install is that the lower blast to driver.