I love this little dozer you have made. And as a 40-plus year of heavy equipment operating. I would like to offer a bit of advice. Whenever you are operating a dozer. You have to have your right hand on the up and down control of the blade all the time. The old saying is. If your right hand isn't moving all the time. You are doing something wrong. As you operate a dozer. Your butt will tell your hand what to do. And the smaller the dozer. The difficult it is to grade level. It has to do with the length of the tracks. So perhaps moving the blade control to your easily operated rt hand. It's a very well-done unit that's for sure. Happy operating, Kent
Yes, I understand. The problem is the hydraulics don't have the responsiveness to move the blade fast enough. I discuss these limitations at the end of the video.
one of a kind machine that you made and it will be in IH history for many years as a classic; i have watched you build it over the years; wonderful machine.
Frank, It’s always a work in progress but he creations that you have built are amazing! Always a pleasure to see a craftsman at work! Building something with your own hands and mind is rewarding!
For your next project, how about an articulating vibrating roller, you could use it to compact the stone in the driveway when your done grading. It could be used on lawn, maybe even start a yard rolling service! Lol. It’s just something I wish I had for my 1,000 foot long drive, and the 3 1/2 acres I mow. If the yard was a little flatter, I could mow faster!
Subscribed. Thanks for posting your video and thoughts. I have an old 727 Mower that I want to rebuild and use in Northern Nevada... love your equipment! Looks as though you have a front mower sort of like the 727 we have. I'm hoping to find a flail mower for our unit - keep the wild grass and weeds down in fire season.
Try just moving your cylinders up a little bit more to fix the lift issues. A real dozer doesn't usually have float in the blade unless it's a dress up dozer. And then it is hydrologic flotation not mechanical. You have made many awesome projects for someone who hasn't been running equipment for a lifetime.
If you could up your hydraulic flow to 3 gpm and pressure to 1,000 psi would give you much more responsive controls. It would cost you about 2 hp to do it. Possibly you could run a vane pump off the shaft from the engine that goes back to the hydro units? A vane pump wouldn't be as big of a drag when starting the engine. The basic machine seems to work fine. Good job on the build. Now to work out the details. Thanks for the video
I've thought about adding a separate hydraulic pump, and that may be something I do down the road. It shouldn't be much of a parasitic power drain as long as it isn't doing any work, but there will inevitably be some impact, even in recirculation mode. I'm currently thinking I need to work on the blade mount again to improve it's range of vertical movement.
Correct on the pump if it isn't doing anything except recirculating the oil wont be taking much power. Getting more range of motion will have the downside of making fine adjustments to the blade height harder. As 1 of the other commenters said, you need to have your hand on the height control all the time. Maybe removing the floating brackets, change the linkage for the 2 lift cylinders to get more range of motion and use the top link control for fine adjustments? Keep up the good work.
Great job Frank. I noticed only the right tread seems to lose traction. Is the left tread not working as hard as the right tread? It looks like your are ready to pack up all that equipment and head off to the Klondike and mine a little gold.🤗
There is still a loss of power on the left track. It stalls while the right track will spin out. I need to figure out why. May just be hydro control adjustment.
In my opinion, you may not notice a change at all with new sprockets, but the sprockets will WAY reduce the amount of wear overtime. Oh by the way, I got back from a model train show, they had a locomotive there called the "Frank S". Made me think of your channel.😁
Your tilt cylinder is keeping the blade from going up because it is attached to the "grill" which does not move because it's attached to the frame. You lowered the mounting point of the cylinder which did not make much difference. To prove this disconnect the tilt cylinder and see if the blade goes up and down ok. Hopefully the blade pivot cylinders are not causing issues as well. Try mounting the cylinder to a bracket the moves up and down with the blade. It's hard to see every detail through the camera and if I am wrong it won't be the first time. Love the content!
Try adding another 1,000 pounds of weight to the machine frame, that should help with pushing dirt rather then only being able to scrape the top soil/grass off. Nice work you do a labor of love I see.
I wager to most (including myself at first) it would seem a large leaf blower would be the better job for that task. However judging by the amount of dirt with the leaves I would say some roadside drainage maintenance was going on as well. Very nice piece of equipment sir as are your other creations.
could you run a pump right off the front of the engine? i have some of my equipment done up like that and its a very common setup with construction equipment. you will get much better hydraulic response and its relatively easy to hook up right to your existing harmonic balancer.
only thing i look at a bit oddly is the tilt before slew arrangement. find its a nuisance that way round, makes all three angles too interactive... like to keep my slew pivots vertical if possible... hate to think what you spend on hydraulics ;)
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 true that... got 2 tiny rams and a joystick spool for $300, for you that would be about $160... took some hunting, as i was getting closer to $800 on the first look around. was even tossing up about just getting bar and tube and seals and making my own... take out the labour, about the same amount for materials. ffs. then again its all chinese vevor. no ingersoll rand here! unless its second hand... hate to think what 24 or so crimped ends is going to set me back... was about 60 for a single repair the other day. seems almost cheaper to see what a crimper die will set me back. or make one. abandoned d11 down the road... shame i cant use its mains! i think theyll weigh more than the tractor...
A little quick tip. If you spray WD40 and yell your sockets, take your finger in switch it around a little bit. Get it on the sidewalls when you take nuts off
not a bad video but i did notice you took 2 heavy machines over a heavy duty power line on the floor multiple times squashing the power line and making it not as safe as it should be
Frank - I just thought of an idea - lots of us with sockets have nuts hiding inside and won't drop out. How about a spring that is trapped inside somehow that propels the nut to the surface. Just an idea. Might have to drill a hole in every socket for a keeper pin for the spring. Hum.
Can you please use closed caption for us hard of hearing and deaf individuals who would had loved to not only watch, but to finish watching your great video, sadly I personally had to stop at 12 minutes because I was not able to read your lips, so rely on closed caption to go along with the video, which you don’t have. Thank you.
Need a little more weight on the rear of of your dozer and raze up your blade as you back up so you don’t have a hump to go over again hahaha. But not too bad on moving muter
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
I love this little dozer you have made. And as a 40-plus year of heavy equipment operating. I would like to offer a bit of advice. Whenever you are operating a dozer. You have to have your right hand on the up and down control of the blade all the time. The old saying is. If your right hand isn't moving all the time. You are doing something wrong. As you operate a dozer. Your butt will tell your hand what to do. And the smaller the dozer. The difficult it is to grade level. It has to do with the length of the tracks. So perhaps moving the blade control to your easily operated rt hand. It's a very well-done unit that's for sure. Happy operating, Kent
Yes, I understand. The problem is the hydraulics don't have the responsiveness to move the blade fast enough. I discuss these limitations at the end of the video.
Spot on!
those two dogs are the best friends you will ever have frank , got to love the boys.
7:29. Lol. That was me last week! Hit it with a 2x4! Awesome. Keep on trucking Frank. Love the show.
one of a kind machine that you made and it will be in IH history for many years as a classic; i have watched you build it over the years; wonderful machine.
Frank, It’s always a work in progress but he creations that you have built are amazing! Always a pleasure to see a craftsman at work! Building something with your own hands and mind is rewarding!
Thank you very much!
I am curious. can rocks get caught up in the tracks and jam things up?
hasn't happened yet. Small stones would just get crushed I think. I'm sure a big stick or stone would create a problem.
You are awesome building those machines Frank.
thank you!
Frank, awesome video as always! But we really want to watch you build something again! New Project!
frank that dozer is truly amazing . its beautiful.
WMST, great job building ur small Dozer, would work great for around the areas. frontend loader looks great too.
For your next project, how about an articulating vibrating roller, you could use it to compact the stone in the driveway when your done grading.
It could be used on lawn, maybe even start a yard rolling service! Lol. It’s just something I wish I had for my 1,000 foot long drive, and the 3 1/2 acres I mow.
If the yard was a little flatter, I could mow faster!
Very nice little dozer !!really impressing!salutation from Montreal,Québec!👌👍👍👍👍
Subscribed. Thanks for posting your video and thoughts. I have an old 727 Mower that I want to rebuild and use in Northern Nevada... love your equipment! Looks as though you have a front mower sort of like the 727 we have. I'm hoping to find a flail mower for our unit - keep the wild grass and weeds down in fire season.
You are awesome. I wish you had blue prints and parts list for the forklift , bulldozer and grader. I would buy them if you do.
Sorry, no plans. Never had any. And would quite different for each build.
Try just moving your cylinders up a little bit more to fix the lift issues. A real dozer doesn't usually have float in the blade unless it's a dress up dozer. And then it is hydrologic flotation not mechanical. You have made many awesome projects for someone who hasn't been running equipment for a lifetime.
what a craftsman to build that machinery
If you could up your hydraulic flow to 3 gpm and pressure to 1,000 psi would give you much more responsive controls. It would cost you about 2 hp to do it. Possibly you could run a vane pump off the shaft from the engine that goes back to the hydro units? A vane pump wouldn't be as big of a drag when starting the engine.
The basic machine seems to work fine. Good job on the build. Now to work out the details.
Thanks for the video
I've thought about adding a separate hydraulic pump, and that may be something I do down the road. It shouldn't be much of a parasitic power drain as long as it isn't doing any work, but there will inevitably be some impact, even in recirculation mode. I'm currently thinking I need to work on the blade mount again to improve it's range of vertical movement.
Correct on the pump if it isn't doing anything except recirculating the oil wont be taking much power. Getting more range of motion will have the downside of making fine adjustments to the blade height harder. As 1 of the other commenters said, you need to have your hand on the height control all the time. Maybe removing the floating brackets, change the linkage for the 2 lift cylinders to get more range of motion and use the top link control for fine adjustments?
Keep up the good work.
Great job Frank. I noticed only the right tread seems to lose traction. Is the left tread not working as hard as the right tread? It looks like your are ready to pack up all that equipment and head off to the Klondike and mine a little gold.🤗
There is still a loss of power on the left track. It stalls while the right track will spin out. I need to figure out why. May just be hydro control adjustment.
In my opinion, you may not notice a change at all with new sprockets, but the sprockets will WAY reduce the amount of wear overtime. Oh by the way, I got back from a model train show, they had a locomotive there called the "Frank S". Made me think of your channel.😁
I think that's true--I was hoping for smoother track movement but couldn't really tell any difference.
Thank you for sharing,i learn a lot always a pleasure watch your project 👍👍👍👍
Your tilt cylinder is keeping the blade from going up because it is attached to the "grill" which does not move because it's attached to the frame. You lowered the mounting point of the cylinder which did not make much difference. To prove this disconnect the tilt cylinder and see if the blade goes up and down ok. Hopefully the blade pivot cylinders are not causing issues as well. Try mounting the cylinder to a bracket the moves up and down with the blade. It's hard to see every detail through the camera and if I am wrong it won't be the first time. Love the content!
That's a good suggestion. I think you are correct.
Try adding another 1,000 pounds of weight to the machine frame, that should help with pushing dirt rather then only being able to scrape the top soil/grass off. Nice work you do a labor of love I see.
A mini dozer seems worth it to me, would be great for snow
I wager to most (including myself at first) it would seem a large leaf blower would be the better job for that task. However judging by the amount of dirt with the leaves I would say some roadside drainage maintenance was going on as well. Very nice piece of equipment sir as are your other creations.
Yes, you are exactly right.
craftsman could take this design and really make it run
i don't mean to be nosy but how much do you think you have in the dozer cause i was thinking about building one similar :thanks
$7k maybe.
never mind then it looks like its worth it tho @@woodandmetalshoptime8048
You really love those cubs. My dad and me like cubs.
could you run a pump right off the front of the engine? i have some of my equipment done up like that and its a very common setup with construction equipment. you will get much better hydraulic response and its relatively easy to hook up right to your existing harmonic balancer.
have this pump run your axillary hydraulics and like the blade
Yes. This is an option. I've considered doing exactly that. I'm running a separate pump on the forklift and on my tandem dump/gator builds.
How about a group photo of all your CC machines.
Did the sprocket upgrades give you more power
I don't think so.
only thing i look at a bit oddly is the tilt before slew arrangement.
find its a nuisance that way round, makes all three angles too interactive... like to keep my slew pivots vertical if possible...
hate to think what you spend on hydraulics ;)
just the hoses...$$$ LOL
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 true that... got 2 tiny rams and a joystick spool for $300, for you that would be about $160... took some hunting, as i was getting closer to $800 on the first look around. was even tossing up about just getting bar and tube and seals and making my own... take out the labour, about the same amount for materials. ffs.
then again its all chinese vevor. no ingersoll rand here! unless its second hand...
hate to think what 24 or so crimped ends is going to set me back... was about 60 for a single repair the other day.
seems almost cheaper to see what a crimper die will set me back. or make one.
abandoned d11 down the road... shame i cant use its mains! i think theyll weigh more than the tractor...
I am looking for an excavator next, you are awesome I love what you're able to build.
Just need some steel plate and concrete and you can make a kill-dozer lite!
What is your next build going to be? A back home maybe?
How heavy is the bulldozer .
Not heavy enough really. Probably about 2000 lbs.
Is that your road or is that the towns road that you keep up keep ?
Part mine, part shared with other neighbors.
A little quick tip. If you spray WD40 and yell your sockets, take your finger in switch it around a little bit. Get it on the sidewalls when you take nuts off
They won't get stuck in the socket
not a bad video but i did notice you took 2 heavy machines over a heavy duty power line on the floor multiple times squashing the power line and making it not as safe as it should be
I think the dozer only once? I didn't realize it until I had done it the first time. Not the best practice for sure.
WOW. NICE. JOB. ,,,,NICE. CREATION
Looks like it worked. Well
👏👏👏
Frank - I just thought of an idea - lots of us with sockets have nuts hiding inside and won't drop out. How about a spring that is trapped inside somehow that propels the nut to the surface. Just an idea. Might have to drill a hole in every socket for a keeper pin for the spring. Hum.
Wouldn't that increase the chance of breaking the socket under stress
That's an interesting idea...Hmmm...
would have to be incredibly strong to push a stuck nut out of a socket, especially if it is not perfectly straight inside the socket.
Of course a Cub Cadet forklift @ 5:11
I said it before I say it again. Street sweeper needs to be next
Idea for next project, either an excavator with tires instead of tracks, or a mini dump truck.
He has a dump truck
A tandem axle dump machine at that.
Can you please use closed caption for us hard of hearing and deaf individuals who would had loved to not only watch, but to finish watching your great video, sadly I personally had to stop at 12 minutes because I was not able to read your lips, so rely on closed caption to go along with the video, which you don’t have. Thank you.
Great Video!!!! 👊👊👊👊
Needs more torque. I like the music though.
Needs more traction. It's spinning the tracks. (right track needs adjusting but torque is not the limiting factor).
If "nowhere to be" was a person
At least the music is good
I’m sorry buddy but the biggest limitation of that machine is the operator
Need a little more weight on the rear of of your dozer and raze up your blade as you back up so you don’t have a hump to go over again hahaha. But not too bad on moving muter
I discuss that issue at the end of the video.
Dirt