Seems like an odd review to me. Like most Brits, I've been wearing various brands of waxed cotton (Barbour etc) all my life, and it's almost completely waterproof in heavy rain, and requires way less long-term maintenance than anything coated with DWR. It would be very bizarre if Fjallraven had somehow developed the only non water-resistant waxed cotton in the world.
The uploader completely missed the fact that the polyester in G-1000 can only be coated with wax rather than absorb it like cotton can. The wax wears off the polyester quickly and isn't effective in blocking water ingress. Only the 35% cotton really gets the wax. I'm not in favour of toxic forever chemicals and materials to make items waterproof, and the uploader critically failed to address this issue. Living in the UK, my choices are Ventile for active use, as it vents and dries very well, and waxed cotton for general use, as it's pretty much completely waterproof as well as being very durable.
While G-1000 isn't waterproof, this test has one fatal failure for real world usage. All the trousers are in horizontal position with no gravity, thus the water can't actually flow. That's what water resistance uses to keep the garment dry, you need waterproof to keep the moisture away if the water sits there. Usually pants are used when standing or walking, not laying down and expecting to keep dry in the rain. As long as it's enough slippery, it would hold water outside pretty well.
I'm a hiking guide in Denali AK and they offer the perfect amount of water resistance for our normal weather. They are also more versatile in changes of weather and temperature (50 degrees, cloudy, and raining vs 83 and sunny). Especially up on the tundra they work 10/10. Just takes a little more time to slow down and care for your gear.
Thanks for your straight forward test and video. It exactly confirms my experience with my waxed Fjällräven gear. Waxing is time consuming, temporal and it doesn't make a real difference. However, for me NO Goretex. If it really rains hard I just put on a very cheap plastic rain jacket, that does do the job better than any other garment. After the rain, G-1000 fabric does dry out very fast and easy. Beside having very deceptive personal experiences in de the past with Goretex and simular materials (it is NOT waterproof either, but will make you sweat your brains out), I'll never buy the stuff which harms the environment we love so much so badly. A big Fjällräven fan here!
The bottom line is that it's an old school way of making a fabric water resistant and can't compete with modern hi - tech fabrics, but the selling point of Fjallraven is it's traditional aspect which is what most of their customers are buying into. Also they recommend about four layers of wax.
In my experience there's two kinds of wax: * The oil wax treatment, as in Filson tin can, or british, or australian style, which is made from solid paraffin and liquid vaseline oil. It resembles butter or other animal fats and it's applied as a greasy cream or as a liquid solution and then it is heated. It is almost fully waterproof but doesn't breathe at all. Also it soils the stuff it touches when fresh * The dry wax treatment, as in Greenland wax or just a candle, which is just solid paraffin or some animal or plant-based solid wax. It is rubbed into fabric (a lot of layers and some 8 hours of work needed to treat the fresh garment) and then heated. It's more breathable, doesn't soil your other clothes and gear, and it makes the fabric heavier and sturdier. But it creases, whitens out after being wet, it reduces breathability to levels I'd say below membranes when applied generously. And it is just a water-resistant treatment, so after some 20-30 minutes of heavy rain the fabric soaks through. For me personally, oil wax doesn't work in the outdoors, it's just not breathable. But I don't want to rely on membranes, either. I say, you need three things for the dry wax to work. Firstly, really tight weaved fabric. It shouldn't be permeable by direct light - should be no white dots when you put a torch or sunlight against it. Secondly, I would wax the front, the shoulders, the hood and the sleeves thoroughly. The back and the armpits, or where the backpack sits, should be left lightly waxed. Then, thirdly, I would use Nikwax CottonProof to finish the job. Keep in mind that the Nikwax solution for the membranes doesn't work on cotton. So, then you have a semi-waterproof shell that can be washed in cold water (30 celsius, no t higher) and then quickly reproofed with a paraffin candle, hair dryer and a Nikwax wash. It works when it's colder, not so great in heat. And you need good layering inside, like wool, polar fleece or coolmax shirt. You'll still sweat more and in steady rain the garment will soak, so you need a wicking layer underneath. The thing dries really quickly. Sasta does their garments like that, and there's Paramo but I've never tried these brands. Or just forget the wax and use NikWax solution or any other DWR. Works just the same, more breathable, but no added abrasion-resistance and it wears out quickly. But no hard labor and excessive sweat. I say waxing is for those who enjoy tedious and ungrateful work that is hard to master, too. Don't know who needs this but I feel like sharing.
That was interesting, I needed this! :) exactly my experience! But I have not tried nikwax cotton proof on g1000. There is a spray-on (which I understand is for treating already waxed barbour jackets) and a wash-in. Do you recommend using the spray-on on already waxed g-1000 garment, to refresh it after a 30 degree wash? I think maybe the cotton proof wash-in would make the whole garment less breathable and spray-on can be applied only to the parts you want.
@@mygg15 eh I have negative experience with the spray-on, it's ending up uneven. If you spray, keep some rag in hand to even it out. I don't think prior wash is needed
@@OverCowboy thank you! I will try to just wash the whole jacket with cotton proof in the washing machine for starters. Or du you think the g-1000 wax ironed in prior to the cotton-proof wash is adding any value for protecting the g-1000 or for waterresistence in some areas?
Agreed...the wax almost completely removed from one wash and it's annoying to reapply wax after each wash. However, I found my G1000 trousers light and air permeable without wax and thus comfortable to wear in summer. The fabric dries out quickly as well. What disappoints me about this fabric is the weak abrasion resistance. My trousers are still fine after years, but my Raven backpack started to discolor at the bottom edge in less than a year of urban use, seemed to be caused by abrasion with my lower back. Eventually the outer fabric was broken in just a few months. I have never broken the outer fabric of my previous nylon or polyester packs.
You should try wool pants. Like the ones guys used to wear in WWII. It is waterproof by itself (To some extent, but even if they get wet they dont feel cold) and the care is really easy.
As an owner of G1000 treated with their wax, of you use enough in strategic areas...your neck below the hood. I find its breathability exceptional compared to synthetic fabric. You can reapply while sitting by the fire. And, because it is made of cotton, it dries really quickly.
I have fiallraven karl pro pants. In the winter I covered it with three layers of wax and walked 40 km in the snow. Hot during the day, windy and snowy in the evenings. The pants held up well, staying dry and breathing nicely in the warmer temperatures. Currently, in the warmer months, it was enough to wash the pants in warmer water and I have a super breathable fabric, and I don't care about water resistance.
I own Fjellraven G1000 pants and i agree the water resistance is kind of shite, even with wax applied. Upside is its durability, softness, and how quickly it dries again. I'm going to try another variation of the greenland wax which is supposed to make it stay in the fabrick longer, which is its main problem, ref. this video: th-cam.com/video/HedRbIsM75M/w-d-xo.html
Don't know what you did, but you did something wrong with the wax... just waxed my Vidda Pros for the first time - 3 very light layers with iron, only the lower leg part against dew - and the water beads off of it like mercury... I can see no difference compared to my freshly Nikwax-treated softshell jacket in this regard.
I treated my fjellreven jacket with «nikwax cotton proof» Much faster than waxing and work far better than the wax. - It will never be waterproof, but for me it is waterproof enough for my local walks.
I put a cup or two in a bucket with water and let it soak / mix for 10 min then hang to dry. I also do the same with fleece jumper with «nikwax polar proof» wich I wear under the jacket on colder days. I dont go for the longest walks in rain but it can withstand enough of mid rain. For me the best is how breathable this is as a bigger guy I sweat very fast, so other jackets with gore tex membranes etc make me feel more moist.
I had a Kaipac Jacket and I've waxed it at least 3-times intensively but the jacket became not even close to be waterresistent. After a 6-7min. walk to my RC boathouse in really very light rain I found some wet parts on my shoulders. Therefore I gave it back. I need something I can relay on. Fijällraven don't even keep there own promises.
It is incorrect to say that Fjallraven "just said no" to "DWR." Fjallraven uses DWR in their products. DWR simply stands for durable water repellant. So one could even argue that Greenland wax is a form of "durable water repellant." (it's not very durable though). What Fjallraven did was say no to water repellants containing PFCs (perfluorocarbons) like Gore-Tex and others. Fjallraven openly says that their gear uses PFC-free DWR on their Eco Shell material page under the How does Eco-Shell Work header. Eco-shell uses "the combination of the PFC-free durable water repellency (DWR) treatment on the outer layer" in order to be waterproof. Source: www.fjallraven.com/us/en-us/about/our-materials/eco-shell
Understand that DWR Teflon and Goretex are using chemicals that do degrade over time and with washes. Wax is just safer and more eco-friendly. What gets me is the insane prices Fjallraven charges for tech from the 1700's
Notice how the video title says "water resistant" not waterproof, and the very first line of the video (0:03) uses the term water resistant, not proof. Also, I made my statement about water resistance vs. proofness at 4:48 for a reason.
@@RenoSydney I think you are mixing up your words, because at 0:03, you have soaked the trousers with water, and that is obviously going to soak through any water resistant material. Water resistant means less water using a fine mist or in light rain. You're expecting them to have a complete water barrier, so the video is pointless considering that wax by fact naturally repels water. It also depends on how you apply the wax, and maybe you didn't do it properly or evenly.
If you can add wax to a fabric Then that wax can be removed . If a fabric is woven it has gaps Water gets in theough gaps if the structure of a fabric is porous it will absorb water . So if you add a wax to a porous woven fabric It wont last and wont perform like a material such as latex . Wax jackets became unpopular for a reason Cotton and cotton polyester clothing is not for harsh weather . The wax clothing and even millitar6 clothing might have an appealing look but its fair weather stuff shower resistant at best this is old news Marketing sells us anything but old ideas are new ideas for the next generation . No one outfit fits all weather wear stuff appropriate to conditions .
You must be talking about a different pair of pants then. These pants have no stretch material. All of it is G-1000, the knee pads are just 2 layers of the G-1000 in contrasting color. Besides, the knees would be an extra important spot for water resistance since kneeling once on a wet surface would try to push the water through the material. So if there's another pair of Fjallraven's pants which tell you not to waterproof the knees, they'd be defeating the purpose of their own product.
Use more wax. One coating does not cut it, I got a G-1000 coat and used pretty much an entire bar of the wax on just the one garment and it is pretty water proof. Use an absurd amount of wax, layer after layer. ALL THE WAX! MORE WAX!
@@Qzou7702 yah that is the trade off, more wax makes it less breathable. The thing you can do to alleviate that a bit is to wax certain areas very heavily such as the hood and shoulders on a jacket and just do a light coat on others
They are not waterproof at all. But the wax makes them more durable............+ Dont wash these pants......... this is old school............give them a cold rinse once in a while...........like once a year...........then they become the best pants you have ever had. Smelling like burnt wood and bacon......whats not to like 😊
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Seems like an odd review to me. Like most Brits, I've been wearing various brands of waxed cotton (Barbour etc) all my life, and it's almost completely waterproof in heavy rain, and requires way less long-term maintenance than anything coated with DWR. It would be very bizarre if Fjallraven had somehow developed the only non water-resistant waxed cotton in the world.
The uploader completely missed the fact that the polyester in G-1000 can only be coated with wax rather than absorb it like cotton can. The wax wears off the polyester quickly and isn't effective in blocking water ingress. Only the 35% cotton really gets the wax. I'm not in favour of toxic forever chemicals and materials to make items waterproof, and the uploader critically failed to address this issue.
Living in the UK, my choices are Ventile for active use, as it vents and dries very well, and waxed cotton for general use, as it's pretty much completely waterproof as well as being very durable.
While G-1000 isn't waterproof, this test has one fatal failure for real world usage. All the trousers are in horizontal position with no gravity, thus the water can't actually flow. That's what water resistance uses to keep the garment dry, you need waterproof to keep the moisture away if the water sits there.
Usually pants are used when standing or walking, not laying down and expecting to keep dry in the rain. As long as it's enough slippery, it would hold water outside pretty well.
I'm a hiking guide in Denali AK and they offer the perfect amount of water resistance for our normal weather. They are also more versatile in changes of weather and temperature (50 degrees, cloudy, and raining vs 83 and sunny). Especially up on the tundra they work 10/10. Just takes a little more time to slow down and care for your gear.
Thanks for your straight forward test and video. It exactly confirms my experience with my waxed Fjällräven gear. Waxing is time consuming, temporal and it doesn't make a real difference.
However, for me NO Goretex. If it really rains hard I just put on a very cheap plastic rain jacket, that does do the job better than any other garment.
After the rain, G-1000 fabric does dry out very fast and easy.
Beside having very deceptive personal experiences in de the past with Goretex and simular materials (it is NOT waterproof either, but will make you sweat your brains out), I'll never buy the stuff which harms the environment we love so much so badly.
A big Fjällräven fan here!
The bottom line is that it's an old school way of making a fabric water resistant and can't compete with modern hi - tech fabrics, but the selling point of Fjallraven is it's traditional aspect which is what most of their customers are buying into. Also they recommend about four layers of wax.
Their products are also PFAS-free, unlike most waterproofing that other companies use
4 layers? how many wears will that last or do you just wait until it wets out before reapplying?
@@s0ftlandingand more durable.
Thanks for the information, I love there pants but they need more water resistance. Appreciate you taking the time to test the wax!
The more waterproof, the less breathable and you will get wet from the inside. G-1000 is not waterproof but dries incredibly quickly.
In my experience there's two kinds of wax:
* The oil wax treatment, as in Filson tin can, or british, or australian style, which is made from solid paraffin and liquid vaseline oil. It resembles butter or other animal fats and it's applied as a greasy cream or as a liquid solution and then it is heated. It is almost fully waterproof but doesn't breathe at all. Also it soils the stuff it touches when fresh
* The dry wax treatment, as in Greenland wax or just a candle, which is just solid paraffin or some animal or plant-based solid wax. It is rubbed into fabric (a lot of layers and some 8 hours of work needed to treat the fresh garment) and then heated. It's more breathable, doesn't soil your other clothes and gear, and it makes the fabric heavier and sturdier. But it creases, whitens out after being wet, it reduces breathability to levels I'd say below membranes when applied generously. And it is just a water-resistant treatment, so after some 20-30 minutes of heavy rain the fabric soaks through.
For me personally, oil wax doesn't work in the outdoors, it's just not breathable. But I don't want to rely on membranes, either.
I say, you need three things for the dry wax to work. Firstly, really tight weaved fabric. It shouldn't be permeable by direct light - should be no white dots when you put a torch or sunlight against it. Secondly, I would wax the front, the shoulders, the hood and the sleeves thoroughly. The back and the armpits, or where the backpack sits, should be left lightly waxed.
Then, thirdly, I would use Nikwax CottonProof to finish the job. Keep in mind that the Nikwax solution for the membranes doesn't work on cotton.
So, then you have a semi-waterproof shell that can be washed in cold water (30 celsius, no t higher) and then quickly reproofed with a paraffin candle, hair dryer and a Nikwax wash. It works when it's colder, not so great in heat. And you need good layering inside, like wool, polar fleece or coolmax shirt. You'll still sweat more and in steady rain the garment will soak, so you need a wicking layer underneath. The thing dries really quickly.
Sasta does their garments like that, and there's Paramo but I've never tried these brands.
Or just forget the wax and use NikWax solution or any other DWR. Works just the same, more breathable, but no added abrasion-resistance and it wears out quickly. But no hard labor and excessive sweat. I say waxing is for those who enjoy tedious and ungrateful work that is hard to master, too.
Don't know who needs this but I feel like sharing.
Just pour some saline on it
That was interesting, I needed this! :) exactly my experience! But I have not tried nikwax cotton proof on g1000. There is a spray-on (which I understand is for treating already waxed barbour jackets) and a wash-in. Do you recommend using the spray-on on already waxed g-1000 garment, to refresh it after a 30 degree wash? I think maybe the cotton proof wash-in would make the whole garment less breathable and spray-on can be applied only to the parts you want.
@@mygg15 eh I have negative experience with the spray-on, it's ending up uneven. If you spray, keep some rag in hand to even it out. I don't think prior wash is needed
@@OverCowboy thank you! I will try to just wash the whole jacket with cotton proof in the washing machine for starters. Or du you think the g-1000 wax ironed in prior to the cotton-proof wash is adding any value for protecting the g-1000 or for waterresistence in some areas?
@@mygg15 I don't know if hair drying damages the nikwax proof. sometimes i use it. never used iron though, can't tell
Agreed...the wax almost completely removed from one wash and it's annoying to reapply wax after each wash. However, I found my G1000 trousers light and air permeable without wax and thus comfortable to wear in summer. The fabric dries out quickly as well.
What disappoints me about this fabric is the weak abrasion resistance. My trousers are still fine after years, but my Raven backpack started to discolor at the bottom edge in less than a year of urban use, seemed to be caused by abrasion with my lower back. Eventually the outer fabric was broken in just a few months. I have never broken the outer fabric of my previous nylon or polyester packs.
You should try wool pants. Like the ones guys used to wear in WWII. It is waterproof by itself (To some extent, but even if they get wet they dont feel cold) and the care is really easy.
Wool is not waterproof ever but it has the advantage of isolating even when wet. I like it very much.
Who wants to wear plastic pants... This "test" is like comparing Wellies to Trailrunners...- I know what I want to wear.
As an owner of G1000 treated with their wax, of you use enough in strategic areas...your neck below the hood. I find its breathability exceptional compared to synthetic fabric. You can reapply while sitting by the fire. And, because it is made of cotton, it dries really quickly.
I have fiallraven karl pro pants. In the winter I covered it with three layers of wax and walked 40 km in the snow. Hot during the day, windy and snowy in the evenings. The pants held up well, staying dry and breathing nicely in the warmer temperatures. Currently, in the warmer months, it was enough to wash the pants in warmer water and I have a super breathable fabric, and I don't care about water resistance.
I own Fjellraven G1000 pants and i agree the water resistance is kind of shite, even with wax applied. Upside is its durability, softness, and how quickly it dries again. I'm going to try another variation of the greenland wax which is supposed to make it stay in the fabrick longer, which is its main problem, ref. this video: th-cam.com/video/HedRbIsM75M/w-d-xo.html
I waxed my G1000 and the water just ran off. Of course it isn't water resistant without it. Seems obvious.
Don't know what you did, but you did something wrong with the wax... just waxed my Vidda Pros for the first time - 3 very light layers with iron, only the lower leg part against dew - and the water beads off of it like mercury... I can see no difference compared to my freshly Nikwax-treated softshell jacket in this regard.
aren;t you supposed to let the wax sit on the trousers for at least 24hours?
I treated my fjellreven jacket with «nikwax cotton proof» Much faster than waxing and work far better than the wax. - It will never be waterproof, but for me it is waterproof enough for my local walks.
Did you use the wash-in on the whole jacket (in machine or bucket?) or the spray-on version?
I put a cup or two in a bucket with water and let it soak / mix for 10 min then hang to dry. I also do the same with fleece jumper with «nikwax polar proof» wich I wear under the jacket on colder days. I dont go for the longest walks in rain but it can withstand enough of mid rain. For me the best is how breathable this is as a bigger guy I sweat very fast, so other jackets with gore tex membranes etc make me feel more moist.
@@henning.a4646 thanx. That is a great idea to also proof the fleece under!
Goretex is a nightmare to wear during summer, does not breathe at all.
I had a Kaipac Jacket and I've waxed it at least 3-times intensively but the jacket became not even close to be waterresistent. After a 6-7min. walk to my RC boathouse in really very light rain I found some wet parts on my shoulders. Therefore I gave it back. I need something I can relay on. Fijällraven don't even keep there own promises.
Fjallraven G-1000 is not for me.
Fjallraven does this for environment not because of water resistance. Goretex and DWR are toxic and they just said - no. :)
It is incorrect to say that Fjallraven "just said no" to "DWR." Fjallraven uses DWR in their products.
DWR simply stands for durable water repellant. So one could even argue that Greenland wax is a form of "durable water repellant." (it's not very durable though). What Fjallraven did was say no to water repellants containing PFCs (perfluorocarbons) like Gore-Tex and others.
Fjallraven openly says that their gear uses PFC-free DWR on their Eco Shell material page under the How does Eco-Shell Work header. Eco-shell uses "the combination of the PFC-free durable water repellency (DWR) treatment on the outer layer" in order to be waterproof.
Source: www.fjallraven.com/us/en-us/about/our-materials/eco-shell
@@RenoSydney yes
Understand that DWR Teflon and Goretex are using chemicals that do degrade over time and with washes. Wax is just safer and more eco-friendly. What gets me is the insane prices Fjallraven charges for tech from the 1700's
Its 2024. Im not committing hours of my time to semi waterproofing my clothes.
Yeah right? Gimme instant results now, gimme, gimme, gimme
@@lt7388 yes
At 2:31, fjallraven specifically says on the website that the wax makes it water resistant, not waterproof. There's a difference!
Notice how the video title says "water resistant" not waterproof, and the very first line of the video (0:03) uses the term water resistant, not proof. Also, I made my statement about water resistance vs. proofness at 4:48 for a reason.
@@RenoSydney I think you are mixing up your words, because at 0:03, you have soaked the trousers with water, and that is obviously going to soak through any water resistant material. Water resistant means less water using a fine mist or in light rain. You're expecting them to have a complete water barrier, so the video is pointless considering that wax by fact naturally repels water. It also depends on how you apply the wax, and maybe you didn't do it properly or evenly.
If you can add wax to a fabric
Then that wax can be removed .
If a fabric is woven it has gaps
Water gets in theough gaps if the structure of a fabric is porous it will absorb water .
So if you add a wax to a porous woven fabric
It wont last and wont perform like a material such as latex .
Wax jackets became unpopular for a reason
Cotton and cotton polyester clothing is not for harsh weather .
The wax clothing and even millitar6 clothing might have an appealing look but its fair weather stuff shower resistant at best this is old news
Marketing sells us anything but old ideas are new ideas for the next generation .
No one outfit fits all weather wear stuff appropriate to conditions .
You treated the stretch material for the knees, which they clearly tell you not to do.
You must be talking about a different pair of pants then. These pants have no stretch material. All of it is G-1000, the knee pads are just 2 layers of the G-1000 in contrasting color.
Besides, the knees would be an extra important spot for water resistance since kneeling once on a wet surface would try to push the water through the material. So if there's another pair of Fjallraven's pants which tell you not to waterproof the knees, they'd be defeating the purpose of their own product.
Use more wax. One coating does not cut it, I got a G-1000 coat and used pretty much an entire bar of the wax on just the one garment and it is pretty water proof.
Use an absurd amount of wax, layer after layer.
ALL THE WAX!
MORE WAX!
If that is the case that is one crazy expensive application which to me is a very big turn off.
@@a8f235 that is fair, it is a decent amount of effort and time that you need to put into the cloths.
But would it makes the garment very unbreathable ?
@@Qzou7702 yah that is the trade off, more wax makes it less breathable.
The thing you can do to alleviate that a bit is to wax certain areas very heavily such as the hood and shoulders on a jacket and just do a light coat on others
They are not waterproof at all. But the wax makes them more durable............+ Dont wash these pants......... this is old school............give them a cold rinse once in a while...........like once a year...........then they become the best pants you have ever had. Smelling like burnt wood and bacon......whats not to like 😊
Smelling more like old long-forgotten wet farts