The D is a nice looking ship, I'm not sure how to explain why but it just looks so cool with its organic curves and lights like a stealth bomber or something. Personally its my favourite ship of them all style wise but I know thats subjective. If you don't want your nav lights to bleed through btw I would suggest putting resistors on them, that should solve the problem for the most part
let us raise a glass to the short but brilliant life of the Saucer Strobe light. "The candle that burns twice as bright, burns half as long" R.I.P. little strobe light...gone but not forgotten
Oh wow, this is lightyears ahead of the old fiber optic amt kit I built back years ago, subbing Christmas tree lights and wiring for the substandard battery powered fiber optics. Window openings were the worst thing ever. Especially with the smaller scale of the amt ship. Looking good!
Beautiful and creative problem solving as always! I will say your nest of wires gave me anxiety. :-) My suggestion for light bleed is too late, I’m sure, but here it is. To block the port and starboard nav lights from bleeding. Drill them out. Tulip the resultant hole walls. Fill holes with clear resin of choice. Light box from plastic the led inside with material of choice. Can’t wait to see this finished!
Oh my goodness. I don't think I have ever broken out in a sweat watching one of your videos, however, this one came close. Wonderful work. Thank you so much for sharing. Have a safe New Years and a great 2019. Looking forward to the finale.
Extraordinary, Christmas Balls to the wall modeling, Lou! I was hesitant to bring this up -- knowing my gloom and doom tendencies -- but you said it first! I stand next to no man when praising good Mr. Tenaglia-- but, made by man means occasional imprefection. I would have struggled to place the boards outside the model (as Simon Says...). OR made a hatch of some kind to get at it later. As for the nav light spill-- I have to grit out that it is a little late now, but I would have placed those LEDs in a ring of brass. You can still do it if you make a drill out of same-size brass. Just slowly drill down around the LED in place. But let's not speak of potential this and that. This is heart-stoppingly gorgeous! Even with the lights off! And I heartily applaud the decision to add some "neck lights." Just that much more lit. You're a great inspiration, Lou-- not just for your subject matters and demonstration of various techniques but patience! Hope this New Year is a bigger and better one!
@@aztekdummy NOOoooo Lou, you never gave up on anything in your life!!! (Aheh heh) Still can't get it out of my head. I thought you'd used 3 or 1.8mm LEDs-- SMDs are a horse of another color. Okay, so go in with a dental pick and carve out just enough to put in a few dabs of Apoxy Sculpt. There has to be a way to knock that leak down. Hey, Happy New Year ya crazy kid!
Looks great Lou! I do have a question about your thought process for the running lights. Why not run some Fiber optic to those guys instead of putting the LED out at the edge of the Saucer? Is it too thin for the Fiber to make the bend? Similar question for the Strobes in the Engines. I'm asking because that was how I was considering doing mine and saw you decided differently, and am interested in why you went that way. Thanks!
Frank, that is exactly the answer. you're asking the fiber to make a 90 degree turn and that's just never gonna happen (or last very long). Essentially, the whole kit is one big fiber optic, so running more fiber is only going to result in unwanted light dispersal where you don't want it unless you jacket the entire length of the fiber. that is why my thought was to sit the led on the outside surface of the hull (well, inside a lightblocked divot) it was vain attempt to minimize the spread.
@@aztekdummy Couldn't you just use a white LED in the first place, then just put a dot of clear color on the bit of the bulb that needs to be sticking out and visible, so there's no , say, green light emitted sideways through the plastic at all? The visible bit that we see would be green, but all the light under the surface would be white.
Amazing Lou . Until I seen these series of vids of this masterpiece , bigger is always better , I would of thought painting an all clear model especially this scale just for the windows would be an insane proposition and just a bad idea for all the extra labour when there are better alternatives but you proved me wrong . You will be a hit at the shows , you need to make a custom case when all is said and done . Plus you will soon need to add an addition on to your addition
A truely great work of art Lou.I can't wait to see it finished.Would it be easier on paint if a clear paint adhesion spray were used.Have a great xmas Lou and wishing you a happy new year.
Hello Lou, I would black out some of the Windows on the sides of the dish were the green, red, and white light is showing thru. Therefore limiting some of the bleed thru.
You paint so well, excellent skill. It's probably too late now because you sealed the saucer, but you can get a step down chip for the red and green lights to test what lower voltage will mitigate the bleed and either leave the chip intact ... or use a calculator (www.ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculator) to see what 2 resistors will produce your desired output. Thank you for sharing your videos. I've learned a lot from you.
This is looking fantastic! Have you ever worked with E6000? It cures very slowly, but it dries clear, is very strong and...most noteworthy...is flexible enough to permit removal in an emergency. It's the favored glue for stormtroopers in the 501st for building their armor. It seems like it would have been well suited for the saucer section. Anyway, fyi. Looking forward to the finished product. This gets more impressive every day!
Awesome sauce. I got mine last week and well, it's a bit more overwhelming in person. I think your deflector turned out pretty well. Could you talk a little about what you did there next week? I don't recall you discussing that in the previous videos. The lifeboat decals will be fun and a half ...
do you mean painting, lighting or both? yes I can focus on that as I have a little more to do on it. I hope you got a healthy supply of sandpaper for that lower saucer part
Very nice work! Like another post, I found this video after looking at a K’t’inga one. One thing that puzzles me is why you wanted the navigation lights not to flash?
Hey Lou, I've noticed that you haven't painted the lifeboat covers and I'm concerned that the decals may be thin in which case the different color Aztecing will show though. Any thoughts about this?
A theme that I notice from 1950s SciFi is the seamlessness of futuristic spacecraft. The movie, The Day the Earth Stood Still is a prime example. This was even emphasized in the dialogue of the movie. Even the Enterprise of TOS had very few panel lines showing; the top section of the saucer was done entirely without panels. 2001: A Space Odyssey seems to be what changed fashion. The spacecraft in that movie had hodgepodges of panels welded/riveted together.
Every panel is painted (or manufactured) the same base color. Difference in material purity, curing/hardening times, bonding/welding temperature-related discoloration, etc can give the panels a very slight color variation that isn't noticeable close up but subtle from a distance. Given that the thermal coating and protective paints used on the hull plates have not lost their effectiveness and the panels themselves likely still meet manufacturer specifications - there would be no reason to hold up final delivery over a cosmetic issue The construction of a Galaxy class starship would likely involve thousands of people and millions of man-hours to complete - there would be no feasible way to make all those materials match EXACTLY without excessive cost and material overruns. This is, of course, speaking in universe.
If you look at a modern day warship like an aircraft carrier the thing is all painted the same color BUT you can see slight waviness in the steel panels where they were all joined during construction. I believe Azteking started out as a way to use paint to achieve the look that the Hull was made of many small panels all put together... Just like the modern warships. Since then its gone in kind of crazy directions... but its still a cool look.
The D is a nice looking ship, I'm not sure how to explain why but it just looks so cool with its organic curves and lights like a stealth bomber or something. Personally its my favourite ship of them all style wise but I know thats subjective. If you don't want your nav lights to bleed through btw I would suggest putting resistors on them, that should solve the problem for the most part
let us raise a glass to the short but brilliant life of the Saucer Strobe light.
"The candle that burns twice as bright, burns half as long"
R.I.P. little strobe light...gone but not forgotten
That is sad to hear, I raise a glass to your strobe, never to see the New Year.
Oh wow, this is lightyears ahead of the old fiber optic amt kit I built back years ago, subbing Christmas tree lights and wiring for the substandard battery powered fiber optics. Window openings were the worst thing ever. Especially with the smaller scale of the amt ship. Looking good!
Found your channel by accident and loving it. Really inspiring me to get in to gear and finish my projects.
That lighted Phaserstrip is absolutley awesome!
Beautiful and creative problem solving as always!
I will say your nest of wires gave me anxiety. :-)
My suggestion for light bleed is too late, I’m sure, but here it is.
To block the port and starboard nav lights from bleeding. Drill them out. Tulip the resultant hole walls. Fill holes with clear resin of choice. Light box from plastic the led inside with material of choice.
Can’t wait to see this finished!
nice work, you are a master of this art sir
Looking great Lou! Happy New Year.
Oh my goodness. I don't think I have ever broken out in a sweat watching one of your videos, however, this one came close. Wonderful work. Thank you so much for sharing. Have a safe New Years and a great 2019. Looking forward to the finale.
This is incredibly impressive, well done, Lou!
Now THAT'S a Christmas tree! Beautiful!
That phaser effect is super!!! Man that looks good! Congrats and great work!! Thanks for the vid too!
Looking good Lou! Great work man! Absolutely fantastic! 👍👍🤘✌🏻Doug H.
The Enterprise is looking good. I can't wait to see the final of this build. This series is very impressive. Happy New Year! Thank you.
This is incredible.
Looking fantastic Lou! Can't wait for the finale! Happy New Year!
Love It Lou. As always, wonderful work.
Looks absolutely great the lighting is teriffic. Looking forward to your next update THANKS And happy New Year!!
Extraordinary, Christmas Balls to the wall modeling, Lou! I was hesitant to bring this up -- knowing my gloom and doom tendencies -- but you said it first! I stand next to no man when praising good Mr. Tenaglia-- but, made by man means occasional imprefection. I would have struggled to place the boards outside the model (as Simon Says...). OR made a hatch of some kind to get at it later.
As for the nav light spill-- I have to grit out that it is a little late now, but I would have placed those LEDs in a ring of brass. You can still do it if you make a drill out of same-size brass. Just slowly drill down around the LED in place.
But let's not speak of potential this and that. This is heart-stoppingly gorgeous! Even with the lights off! And I heartily applaud the decision to add some "neck lights." Just that much more lit.
You're a great inspiration, Lou-- not just for your subject matters and demonstration of various techniques but patience!
Hope this New Year is a bigger and better one!
I thought of brass or aluminum tubes, but they would have shorted out the SMLEDS the way they are soldered.
@@aztekdummy NOOoooo Lou, you never gave up on anything in your life!!! (Aheh heh) Still can't get it out of my head. I thought you'd used 3 or 1.8mm LEDs-- SMDs are a horse of another color. Okay, so go in with a dental pick and carve out just enough to put in a few dabs of Apoxy Sculpt. There has to be a way to knock that leak down.
Hey, Happy New Year ya crazy kid!
Happy New Year Lou! Well done sir. You are an inspiration for overcoming challenges in the build. Hope to see this at Wonderfest in June!
I rather enjoy these longer build series. She’s looking great. Happy New Year.
Great workmanship!! I would like to buy it!!
Awesome work as usual Lou!
Legend!
It already was looking good then that phaser comes around, sound and motion included!!
Looks great Lou! I do have a question about your thought process for the running lights. Why not run some Fiber optic to those guys instead of putting the LED out at the edge of the Saucer? Is it too thin for the Fiber to make the bend? Similar question for the Strobes in the Engines. I'm asking because that was how I was considering doing mine and saw you decided differently, and am interested in why you went that way.
Thanks!
Frank, that is exactly the answer. you're asking the fiber to make a 90 degree turn and that's just never gonna happen (or last very long).
Essentially, the whole kit is one big fiber optic, so running more fiber is only going to result in unwanted light dispersal where you don't want it unless you jacket the entire length of the fiber. that is why my thought was to sit the led on the outside surface of the hull (well, inside a lightblocked divot) it was vain attempt to minimize the spread.
@@aztekdummy Couldn't you just use a white LED in the first place, then just put a dot of clear color on the bit of the bulb that needs to be sticking out and visible, so there's no , say, green light emitted sideways through the plastic at all? The visible bit that we see would be green, but all the light under the surface would be white.
@@NewMessage well, in hind sight....the lighting kit came with the green and red LEDs for the nav lights, so I used them
Amazing Lou . Until I seen these series of vids of this masterpiece , bigger is always better , I would of thought painting an all clear model especially this scale just for the windows would be an insane proposition and just a bad idea for all the extra labour when there are better alternatives but you proved me wrong . You will be a hit at the shows , you need to make a custom case when all is said and done . Plus you will soon need to add an addition on to your addition
A truely great work of art Lou.I can't wait to see it finished.Would it be easier on paint if a clear paint adhesion spray were used.Have a great xmas Lou and wishing you a happy new year.
Hello Lou,
I would black out some of the Windows on the sides of the dish were the green, red, and white light is showing thru. Therefore limiting some of the bleed thru.
exactly my thought. I have some leftover window vinyl that I was going to try for that very purpose
You paint so well, excellent skill. It's probably too late now because you sealed the saucer, but you can get a step down chip for the red and green lights to test what lower voltage will mitigate the bleed and either leave the chip intact ... or use a calculator (www.ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculator) to see what 2 resistors will produce your desired output. Thank you for sharing your videos. I've learned a lot from you.
Yes , the problem of seeing videos after the fact @@CaptTambo.
It's looking great so far what a good job well done.
Lou have you thought of using a adhesion promotor before you apply primer?
whell getting thare and a hapy new year
This is looking fantastic! Have you ever worked with E6000? It cures very slowly, but it dries clear, is very strong and...most noteworthy...is flexible enough to permit removal in an emergency. It's the favored glue for stormtroopers in the 501st for building their armor. It seems like it would have been well suited for the saucer section. Anyway, fyi. Looking forward to the finished product. This gets more impressive every day!
Awesome sauce. I got mine last week and well, it's a bit more overwhelming in person. I think your deflector turned out pretty well. Could you talk a little about what you did there next week? I don't recall you discussing that in the previous videos. The lifeboat decals will be fun and a half ...
do you mean painting, lighting or both? yes I can focus on that as I have a little more to do on it. I hope you got a healthy supply of sandpaper for that lower saucer part
@@aztekdummy I suppose both, but more or less your general thought process. I've seen it done several ways on the 1400 scale kit.
Very nice work! Like another post, I found this video after looking at a K’t’inga one.
One thing that puzzles me is why you wanted the navigation lights not to flash?
the formation lights shouldn't flash. that's for the strobes to do
Looking awesome as always. Why was the top saucer strobe not visible when the top was clamped on?
because something must have shorted out or a magnet wire got broken. too late now to fix it
R.I.P. Saucer Strobe... it was fun while it lasted
We need to see a composite shot like they did in The Art of Star Trek books.
Hey Lou, I've noticed that you haven't painted the lifeboat covers and I'm concerned that the decals may be thin in which case the different color Aztecing will show though. Any thoughts about this?
I'll try one and see. You may have just added another day to the job
Sorry Lou!
@@James-rn7dx good news! the decals have a white layer in the printing. I'll still test one somewhere inconspicuous, but I think we're good to go
Yep, all my decals have a underprinted white layer to make them opaque.
@@dbs314 I thought as much when I saw the white numerals. excellent. are there any "extra' lifeboat decals or are they all needed? Just in case...
Cool uss enterprise
Hey there, where abouts did you get the kit from?
www.donshoko.com/next/index.shtml
Mod it into the all good things enterprise d refit!
never understood Aztek... I thought they should be able to paint every panel in the same color in the 23rd century.....
A theme that I notice from 1950s SciFi is the seamlessness of futuristic spacecraft. The movie, The Day the Earth Stood Still is a prime example. This was even emphasized in the dialogue of the movie. Even the Enterprise of TOS had very few panel lines showing; the top section of the saucer was done entirely without panels. 2001: A Space Odyssey seems to be what changed fashion. The spacecraft in that movie had hodgepodges of panels welded/riveted together.
Every panel is painted (or manufactured) the same base color. Difference in material purity, curing/hardening times, bonding/welding temperature-related discoloration, etc can give the panels a very slight color variation that isn't noticeable close up but subtle from a distance. Given that the thermal coating and protective paints used on the hull plates have not lost their effectiveness and the panels themselves likely still meet manufacturer specifications - there would be no reason to hold up final delivery over a cosmetic issue The construction of a Galaxy class starship would likely involve thousands of people and millions of man-hours to complete - there would be no feasible way to make all those materials match EXACTLY without excessive cost and material overruns. This is, of course, speaking in universe.
If you look at a modern day warship like an aircraft carrier the thing is all painted the same color BUT you can see slight waviness in the steel panels where they were all joined during construction. I believe Azteking started out as a way to use paint to achieve the look that the Hull was made of many small panels all put together... Just like the modern warships. Since then its gone in kind of crazy directions... but its still a cool look.
Am I first? 👋 hi LOU!