I’m sure you could find a way to no-till soybeans without spraying. Maybe this specific method calls for it, but another method that doesn’t involve spraying could be developed
I told you last year I finally got my tractor and disc and plow and now everybody's leaning towards the No till I'm trying some myself this year with buckwheat first I'll bet you know how it goes brother
If you have a tractor and disc tilling is still the most reliable way to plant because your able to work the seeds in and get them somewhat covered whereas no till you need rain to get germination.
Check out Gabe brown no till they use it for a few thousand acre farm. Cover crop rotation for soil health looks really easy to put in place for food plot program. Great vid keep em coming!
I’ll have to check them out. If you have a no till to drill into the rye that would be the ultimate program, because the rye thatch would help keep the soil cool in dry conditions and drilling them in would result in way better germination even in dry conditions.
Maybe late summer you can over seed your winter rye into those soy beans on your first year plot and create a good foundation for a no till operation next year. I think once you start establishing a good no chill practice you’re going to find just as much success without destroying your soil structure.
Yeah I’m really surprised how well the no till plot bounced back after such a slow start. If last June wasn’t so dry they would have done even better. I really like how well the rye suppresses the weeds.
If you get a good rain, one inch or so less than a week after planting probably darn near 100%. But if you don’t get a good rain obviously less. You can’t do this 2 yrs in a row. Too much thatch accumulates on top of the soil and you will get less that germinate the second year and even less the 3rd. If you have a drill you can do it for many years without rotating because your getting the seed under the rye thatch.
No I didn’t do a soil sample on these plots. We have never fertilized these plots in 3 years, I don’t plan on doing so unless we start seeing signs of a deficiency.
Great video. Both plots look great. Is your drag home-made or did you purchase that? I have about two acres of buckwheat that will need to be terminated in a few weeks and I didn't purchase a cultipacker yet. Wondering what my options are? I do have a drag harrow, but whatever you were pulling looked pretty solid.
My dad bought the drag at an auction a while ago. It’s probably over 50 yrs old. It’s a drag harrow it’s normally used to break up clumps and level off tilled ground but works good for crushing rye too.
Soil temp. Buy a long term thermometer that takes a sample every day (hours) that plugs into USB. Put that under the thick layer of duff. I bet it takes weeks before the temp under there gets up to the temp of the exposed dirt. That's a good thing long term though as it keeps moisture maintained.
Yeah the tilled plot probably had a lot higher soil temp being exposed to the sun. But the lack of rain is mainly why the no till plot is so far behind the tilled plot.
I sprayed a mix of 2-4-D and glyphosate in early May when everything was greening up. Got a good kill, came back a couple weeks later and disced it all up. Took about 3-4 passes to get it worked up good, discing sod into soil takes a little bit.
Without spraying the cover crop makes no sense, without spraying no till makes no sense. By the way there’s no concrete evidence that chemicals such as glyphosate cause cancer. I am cautious when spraying. I use a cart sprayer so it very safe I get no mist drift when turning and use rubber gloves and my skin doesn’t even come into contact with it.
I really like your videos. It's cool seeing how much you already know about this process. I think you're figuring out what works and what doesn't through personal experience and there's nothing better than that! To avoid patches with no seed, get a tow-behind broadcaster like the Brinly 175...so much easier! Tilling kills your soil biota. In years with normal moisture, no-till is just as good, but really builds your soil. Corn, soybeans and straight brassica mixes are OK, but a highly diverse fall plot would do so much more for your soil and the wildlife. This video shows how both methods work, but it doesn't show what's going on under the soil. Did you feel the temperature of that open ground on the tilled plot? Wonder why nothing is growing there? Keep working through all of this in your head and I think you'll eventually come to realize that those discs represent a short-term gain in aesthetics, but a long-term loss in both soil and food plot quality.
I know that a normal year with more moisture would have definitely gotten the no till plot a better start and would have worked better. Last year we had waist high beans in that plot that were no tilled. I like doing no till but it’s hard to do on all my acres unless we get a no till drill. Otherwise I’ll be buying $500+ of rye every year just for a cover crop.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 - That's an awful lot of rye! How many acres are you planting? Is it cheaper to buy the rye or diesel for the tractor? Since no-till is so much faster, what is your time worth? The hardest thing to calculate is the value of improved infiltration, OM buildup, and follow-on crop success (in most years) when using rye for a cover crop. What we see above the ground is simply a reflection of what's happening below the surface of the soil. That's why I like to plant highly diverse fall crops and stay away from monocultures. Read the book, "Dirt to Soil", by Gabe Brown, if you haven't already done so. What you're doing is on the right track, but he takes it to the logical conclusion.
@@jasonbroom7147 this year I have around 8 acres of food plots on 3 properties. Only about 1.5 acres of no till rye and no till buckwheat plots. I know a diverse blend with many different species would definitely be better for the soil because of all the different root depths and diversity in general but I don’t really want to plant that because a lot of those varieties of plants like clover, alfalfa, oats etc. or any other species besides brassica is not green in the fall or winter. And nothing can feed the deer through winter as good as corn and beans. I am mainly just focusing on fall food and winter food for the deer and I am limited on acres so I am just trying to get the best bang for my buck and grow as much fall/ winter food as possible
Hey bud if you get a chance reach out too John komp of nortwoods whitetails great person too deal with will always answer your questions and help you out and most of all his seeds are on the money no fillers you get what you pay for
That won’t really help because if you get a dry stretch waiting to crush down won’t help. And it’s hard to get a kill on it when it’s 4-6ft tall. You don’t want the rye to fully dry down on its own and mature because then there’s a good chance it may re seed itself in.
No let the soybeans germinate and sprout use a glyphosate ready soybean spray the rye then roll or drag it, kill the rye in dough stage before the seeds form. We were able to buy a old steel crimper and it’s a game changer
That might work but I would think crushing the rye down with the soybeans so young would probably damage some of them. And on a normal year you might get germination 4-7 days after planting so you would be out there crushing it down only a week after planting. I’m going to continue to do it all the same day. On a normal year with more moisture it works fine.
That not really true. Last year in the same plot I had waist high beans with a ton of pods. This year has been very abnormally dry. If I would have planted 2-3 weeks earlier in mid May they would probably be waist high right now in the no till plot.
Nice work! Nice to see you and your Dad working together on the project.
Thanks 👍
Great job showing the difference. I've been doing the no till just because of lack of equipment. Looking forward the continued update.
Thanks, I’m looking forward to the update in late aug early September too. Can’t wait to see what it all turns into.
Really like the side by side comparison of no till vs. tilled beans. Clearly a huge difference
Thanks, the no till plot would have turned out better if we had more rain after planting in early June.
This is very interesting and helpful for small scale farmers without equipment, especially in rural Africa. I'm going to try it.
But remember the #1 ingredient for this method to work is spraying the cover crop once’s it’s been crushed down.
I’m sure you could find a way to no-till soybeans without spraying. Maybe this specific method calls for it, but another method that doesn’t involve spraying could be developed
Great video. The ones will follow up results are the best.
You should do one outlining your farm and overall plan with aerials
Thanks, I will have aerials in my corn and beans update in late aug or early September.
last couple years i have been buying hay and spreading over my seed beds works really good
That’s a lot of work if you had to do a large area through. Thats basically what this method is.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 yes thats why i mentioned it but i can do it on my own terms. What i need is a straw blower
I told you last year I finally got my tractor and disc and plow and now everybody's leaning towards the No till I'm trying some myself this year with buckwheat first I'll bet you know how it goes brother
If you have a tractor and disc tilling is still the most reliable way to plant because your able to work the seeds in and get them somewhat covered whereas no till you need rain to get germination.
Nice great to see you got another video up
Thanks 👍
You make awesome videos, I’m in Louisiana and the soil is terrible. Gonna start trying no till
Thanks, no till is definitely the way to go if you have poor soil.
That looks like such fun!
It is!
Check out Gabe brown no till they use it for a few thousand acre farm. Cover crop rotation for soil health looks really easy to put in place for food plot program. Great vid keep em coming!
I’ll have to check them out. If you have a no till to drill into the rye that would be the ultimate program, because the rye thatch would help keep the soil cool in dry conditions and drilling them in would result in way better germination even in dry conditions.
Maybe late summer you can over seed your winter rye into those soy beans on your first year plot and create a good foundation for a no till operation next year. I think once you start establishing a good no chill practice you’re going to find just as much success without destroying your soil structure.
Yeah I’m really surprised how well the no till plot bounced back after such a slow start. If last June wasn’t so dry they would have done even better. I really like how well the rye suppresses the weeds.
With soybean sitting on top of the soil and rye on top. What is the germination rate?
If you get a good rain, one inch or so less than a week after planting probably darn near 100%. But if you don’t get a good rain obviously less. You can’t do this 2 yrs in a row. Too much thatch accumulates on top of the soil and you will get less that germinate the second year and even less the 3rd. If you have a drill you can do it for many years without rotating because your getting the seed under the rye thatch.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 ok. Thank you. I will try the rye this fall and soy next spring.
Been a tough year. Dry as hell. Did you pull a soil sample? Curious why you didn’t fertilize. What about lime?
No I didn’t do a soil sample on these plots. We have never fertilized these plots in 3 years, I don’t plan on doing so unless we start seeing signs of a deficiency.
After you broadcast and drag it, do you spray weed kill?
Yes the no till plot I sprayed after packing down to make sure I got a good kill on the rye.
Nice work!
Thanks 👍
I tie a wooden fence post to the harrow . makes it heavier and 1 or 2 trips does the trick
1 or 2 trips works good for me too, I also like to drag in or cultipack my brassicas too when planting on tilled ground.
Great video. Both plots look great. Is your drag home-made or did you purchase that? I have about two acres of buckwheat that will need to be terminated in a few weeks and I didn't purchase a cultipacker yet. Wondering what my options are? I do have a drag harrow, but whatever you were pulling looked pretty solid.
My dad bought the drag at an auction a while ago. It’s probably over 50 yrs old. It’s a drag harrow it’s normally used to break up clumps and level off tilled ground but works good for crushing rye too.
How old are brassicas when you start seeing signs of fertilizer deficiency's?
I’m not really sure I’d say around 3 weeks to a month when the plants start to get around ankle high.
Soil temp. Buy a long term thermometer that takes a sample every day (hours) that plugs into USB. Put that under the thick layer of duff. I bet it takes weeks before the temp under there gets up to the temp of the exposed dirt. That's a good thing long term though as it keeps moisture maintained.
Yeah the tilled plot probably had a lot higher soil temp being exposed to the sun. But the lack of rain is mainly why the no till plot is so far behind the tilled plot.
Hey man. How much rye did you put down per acre for that?
I don’t exactly remember, I’m guessing it was around 150lbs per acre
Hey do you crush it them spray or spray and then crush it over the seeds planted ?
How did you start the field?
I sprayed a mix of 2-4-D and glyphosate in early May when everything was greening up. Got a good kill, came back a couple weeks later and disced it all up. Took about 3-4 passes to get it worked up good, discing sod into soil takes a little bit.
Add weight and it will require fewer trips around. Bailing wire and cinder blocks.
That would definitely be a good idea, I’ll have to try that in the future
Great job but throwing out the beans by hand in head high wheat dosen't give a good comparison
It’s broadcast tilled vs broadcast no-till.
What state are you in?
I’m in southern WI
Nice cover crop,but poison spray makes no sense.
Without spraying the cover crop makes no sense, without spraying no till makes no sense. By the way there’s no concrete evidence that chemicals such as glyphosate cause cancer. I am cautious when spraying. I use a cart sprayer so it very safe I get no mist drift when turning and use rubber gloves and my skin doesn’t even come into contact with it.
Winter rye or what type
Yeah winter rye, cereal rye same thing
you can use a drone to seed it works better.
Yeah I don’t plan on getting that fancy, I’ll stick with the way I do it now, doesn’t take that long.
I really like your videos. It's cool seeing how much you already know about this process. I think you're figuring out what works and what doesn't through personal experience and there's nothing better than that! To avoid patches with no seed, get a tow-behind broadcaster like the Brinly 175...so much easier!
Tilling kills your soil biota. In years with normal moisture, no-till is just as good, but really builds your soil. Corn, soybeans and straight brassica mixes are OK, but a highly diverse fall plot would do so much more for your soil and the wildlife. This video shows how both methods work, but it doesn't show what's going on under the soil. Did you feel the temperature of that open ground on the tilled plot? Wonder why nothing is growing there? Keep working through all of this in your head and I think you'll eventually come to realize that those discs represent a short-term gain in aesthetics, but a long-term loss in both soil and food plot quality.
I know that a normal year with more moisture would have definitely gotten the no till plot a better start and would have worked better. Last year we had waist high beans in that plot that were no tilled. I like doing no till but it’s hard to do on all my acres unless we get a no till drill. Otherwise I’ll be buying $500+ of rye every year just for a cover crop.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 - That's an awful lot of rye! How many acres are you planting? Is it cheaper to buy the rye or diesel for the tractor? Since no-till is so much faster, what is your time worth? The hardest thing to calculate is the value of improved infiltration, OM buildup, and follow-on crop success (in most years) when using rye for a cover crop. What we see above the ground is simply a reflection of what's happening below the surface of the soil. That's why I like to plant highly diverse fall crops and stay away from monocultures. Read the book, "Dirt to Soil", by Gabe Brown, if you haven't already done so. What you're doing is on the right track, but he takes it to the logical conclusion.
@@jasonbroom7147 this year I have around 8 acres of food plots on 3 properties. Only about 1.5 acres of no till rye and no till buckwheat plots. I know a diverse blend with many different species would definitely be better for the soil because of all the different root depths and diversity in general but I don’t really want to plant that because a lot of those varieties of plants like clover, alfalfa, oats etc. or any other species besides brassica is not green in the fall or winter. And nothing can feed the deer through winter as good as corn and beans. I am mainly just focusing on fall food and winter food for the deer and I am limited on acres so I am just trying to get the best bang for my buck and grow as much fall/ winter food as possible
Hey bud if you get a chance reach out too John komp of nortwoods whitetails great person too deal with will always answer your questions and help you out and most of all his seeds are on the money no fillers you get what you pay for
If you will walk through and seed the soybeans into the rye and get a rain and germination before laying the rye over you might have better results.
That won’t really help because if you get a dry stretch waiting to crush down won’t help. And it’s hard to get a kill on it when it’s 4-6ft tall. You don’t want the rye to fully dry down on its own and mature because then there’s a good chance it may re seed itself in.
No let the soybeans germinate and sprout use a glyphosate ready soybean spray the rye then roll or drag it, kill the rye in dough stage before the seeds form. We were able to buy a old steel crimper and it’s a game changer
That might work but I would think crushing the rye down with the soybeans so young would probably damage some of them. And on a normal year you might get germination 4-7 days after planting so you would be out there crushing it down only a week after planting. I’m going to continue to do it all the same day. On a normal year with more moisture it works fine.
Just remember, no till no yield!
That not really true. Last year in the same plot I had waist high beans with a ton of pods. This year has been very abnormally dry. If I would have planted 2-3 weeks earlier in mid May they would probably be waist high right now in the no till plot.
Looks Like you don't know how to NO TILL CORRECTLY. ...
And how would the correct way be?