You'll Be Shocked This Stihl Chainsaw Runs! You won't Believe It!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- You'll Be Shocked This Chainsaw Runs! You won't Believe It!
Recently a STIHL MS441 chainsaw arrived at the shop with symptoms such as "running lean", poor idling and difficult to adjust the carburetor.
Watch as I run this saw and show you the final diagnosis of what was wrong and you will find it difficult to believe that it even started!
Don’t forget to click the 🔔 to turn on Video Notifications for more money saving videos and tips, featuring all the brands like Stihl, Husky, Husqvarna, Honda, Echo, Kohler, Tecumseh, Dolmar, Makita, Poulan, Ariens, Powermore, Briggs and Stratton, Murray, John Deere, Craftsman, MTD, AYP, etc.
Help me make videos or buy me a beer!!
/ donyboy73
Connect with me on these social media spaces (plus that's where I announce contest winners)
Facebook: / donyboy73-the-small-en...
Twitter: / donyboy73
Instagram: / donyboy73
If you enjoy my small engine repair videos make sure to comment, share, thumbs up and subscribe. Thanks for watching!
Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
I’ve been a small engine mechanic for many decades and also run my own repair shop so my videos are loaded with tips and tricks that I have learned and want to share with you. You will also find many tool and product reviews from top brands on my channel as well.
I have the largest Small Engine Repair Video Library on TH-cam and the entire internet with over 1200 videos, just GOOGLE "DONYBOY73"!
I want "DON THE SMALL ENGINE DOCTOR" on TH-cam to save you time, frustration and most importantly, MONEY with my HOW-TO videos!
Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, hand tools, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor".
#donyboy73 #stihlchainsaw #2stroke
![พบรัก - INK WARUNTORN x FELLOW FELLOW [LIVE SESSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VonHhP6_Y8/mqdefault.jpg)
Find out here why most Stihl chainsaws leak bar oil;
th-cam.com/video/rl-9PnXMDK4/w-d-xo.html
Watch my video on how to replace an oil line on a Stihl ms170/180 here;
th-cam.com/video/QiyXMXMXjZE/w-d-xo.html
That's just amazing that it was still pulling almost 150 lbs of compression. Speaks volumes of the quality and craftsmanship of Sthil
We learn from our mistakes. It is refreshing when people admit to mistakes so others can learn.
Hello sir, I also work as a mechanic, I have learned by looking at you, but I do not have the tools as much as you, I do the great work of someone else.Thank you sir, I am from India, Himachal Pradesh, I am from Kullu Manali, I have seen every video of you, love you sir, keep making such videos thank you
greetings from Canada!
@@donyboy73 Thanks you sir ji ❤️❤️🙏🙏🙏 lot of love
This guy is the shit huh??? He knows his business👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 cheers from florida
I wish I could see this saw being rebuilt! Gosh, I would donate $5 at least to watch a 1 hour video on you doing a rebuild!
really?
Me too. Sign me up for the rebuild
Likewise
Seen that alot in weed eaters. The cylinder expands when it gets hot and there goes your compression. Did you check the compression when it was hot? Bet it would of dropped half of what it was cold. Great video
@@Paradise_Arms Me Three!
Great tip Donyboy. Removing the muffler tells the story. Previously my shop has wasted alot of time trying to find the problem. Now it's our policy on 2 stroke equipment to remove the muffler before doing anything. Amazing how much compression that saw in your video had. I used to go by that before, but not after watching this video. Thanks for the advice. Great following your videos 👍
good idea Robert!
That wear is still not normal, even with thousands of hours of run time, the wear should be slow and a "smoothing" and thinning out of the piston skirts. Scoring should not happen if piston and cylinder is properly lubricated. It got that way either from the airleak making it run lean on fuel, or the gas-oil mixture didn't have enough oil. I would never put 50:1 in 2 strokes, only 40-32:1. I care more about longevity than what the environmentalists say.
AND THE HITS KEEP ROLLIN'!
Oh boy I hope we get to see a rebuild in this chainsaw. Looking forward for it. 👍👍👍👍
OK The hole in the piston surprised me. Great demo. I can't believe it even ran. I have made the same mistake.
same here!
I have the ms 460 magnum ive had it 15 years i only had 1 time it didnt start i changed the plug it never misses a beat
Great advise, Pull the muffler and check the piston and rings. I think the high compression came from the tremendous power in your pulling arm. Somehow you are converting pure brut strength into high compression. Keep the videos coming, still learning.
I had no idea that a chainsaw, and I guess pretty much any small engine, needs this kind of in depth checking and maintenance! I bought a Poulan Pro PR5020 that I still haven't used, but I'm going to have to remember this! Check for air leaks, cracked intake boot, loose cylinder bolts, etc. I'll have to learn how to do all of that. Do you have a video on this; the whole procedural annual check? Thanks for being you!
You really should listen to that Don fella, he has a lot of valuable experience.
Awesome Don! Thanks for making and posting this video. Another great example of why to remove the muffler. I can't believe the saw actually ran, with the piston and rings in that shape!!!
I need to listen to my own advice lol!
In 50+ years of working on saws of all kinds, I've never seen 1 with a hole in the piston but I have seen more than 1 with the piston dimpled/cracked from using an impact with a metal piston stop before. 1 other thing not related directly to the saw is the wear & tear on your shoulders from 50+ years of yanking on 'em especially the stout ones.
Great video. Big diesels can also seem healthy and not show excessive blow by... until they get up to operating temperature.
diagnosing my old 441 magnum /arctic firewood saw and this video really showed what to look for first . on my teardown the crank seals are exposed and are worn out next i am no going to taking off the muffler to see if there is a problem in the cylinder and then deciding if a reseal /repair /rebuild is needed as it is around 20 years of seasonal use with only clutch system parts ,bars ,chains ,filters, plugs. not sure the new ones are actually the way to go vs the cost of rebuilding what has been a basically trouble free saw 🤔
Yes, lots of videos covering ongoing saw maintenance but you quickly listed several things to check (air leaks, etc)I don’t normally see included. Maybe warrants another video.
But then again I’m now rethinking saving myself time, money and frustration by not spending lots of money on pressure gauges and the rest. Can’t believe I’m saving this, but the writings on the wall, time to get a battery powered model. Money saved not buying tools would easily cover getting into a new battery and charger system.
This was great information, and a practical lesson on diagnosis. Seeing that piston reminds me that internal combustion is a frickin' miracle at times! Best wishes from Ottawa.
unreal eh?
That is amazing. I guess that advice would be beneficial for really any piece of lawn equipment. Most people don’t run used equipment long enough for any symptoms to show up. Thanks Dony! 👍👍
absolutely, have a great weekend!
amen! first thing I do to EVERY saw I service. also, if the saw is 20+ years old, automatically gets a pressure vac test. you can throw new carbs, filters etc at them all day and if they're sucking air, you're wasting your time
Hey Don,
thanks for this advice! I´ve never seen a defective like this hole in the piston jet... Incredible that this saw was running.
Greetings, Stefan
Wow that is a massive beast of a saw. Looks a bit like the huge (German?) one my father in law has (has also done the firewood business, as well as doing IT for a small engine shop, saw was a gift from the owner's family after the owner passed, was apparently set aside to give to him for years).
Interesting to see another cause of "runs badly when warm". Just fixed my leaf blower in the fall, had stripped crankcase screws. (And finally replaced the disintegrating asbestos exhaust gasket with one that won't give me cancer - amazingly that piston looked ok)
Great video!
You can get even stronger Saws form Stihl :D but you dont want work withe that the full day :D the mostly used withe long swords for cut down trees than a smaler one to remove the branches
Same occasion with my Homelite CSP4518! Apart from the hole thingy...
Awesome compression, new spark plug, new carb membranes, but when I removed the muffler... The absolute chaos in there!!!
The best advice vid ever about buying used chainsaws.
Great video Don! I was betting on the crankshaft seals or the cylinder bolts being loose. Just goes to show how you can’t be too careful when buying a saw. Wow I can’t believe that piston was in that shape with that compression reading. Crazy. 👍
I couldn't believe it either so it really threw me off and I wasted so much time on it!
Very interesting and good advice. After everything the guy replaced, my experience would have gone straight to worn crank seals, of course a leaking jug gasket would have presented itself when diagnosing the situation. I would never have considered pulling the muffler and inspecting the piston, especially when you have good compression. I learned something new today and I am not afraid to admit that I can add that to my 30 odd years of learning and knowledge. Thank you for sharing that information with us.
The fuel ignited in the crankcase and blew a hole in the piston, Stihl is known for this issue, but I'm amazed it still runs 😂
I knew this would be a hit! What a crazy sight to see!!!
That was an awesome explanation, thank you Donny boy.
I really liked the way you showed how to troubleshoot that problem. You videos are such a pleasure to watch because you kearn so much. Good stuff.
You are right - annual checks on well used saws are a must. That is why I have a Mighty Vac. I just finished building a 372 and it did not run for the first time without passing a leak down test. I have found one of the worst places for leaks on Stihl saws is the connection between the boot and the carb. I usually crank up my saws and spray break cleaner in this area to make sure it is still sealed. I like the system used on the 372 better than the loose coupling on the Stihl which is dependent to much on nut tension. And the condition of the boot.
absolutely!
Hi Dony, that confirms that compression test, manual by hanging (or with manometer), is not reliable, except when the saw falls easily, so rings are dead or oval cylinder or both. It often happens that piston and rings are scratched even with a good test . So you are right : we must take muffler off!
I have fallen for the “hang” test myself only to pop the muffler once home to find exactly the same thing. Great video!
WOW! Amazing it worked that good.. Also in glorious 4K :)
It's happening to me with my 2 stroke snowmobile this winter. Nice video thank's for the advice.
Came from Buckin's channel, awesome advice! Thanks for sharing, God bless
A most valuable vid for the consumer. Will save viewers from buying junk.👍
Another top notch video. Never a wasted second; always informative.
Great advice that I would never have thought of.
Hi Dony, I have a Solo chainsaw that runs great when it's cold then runs badly when it's warmed up. I'm pulling the muffler. Thanks for this video.
I spray all the areas that normally leak with break cleaner while the saw is running. If you have a leak the saw will stop dead when you spray it around an area that is leaking. I spray the carb and boot area, the base gasket flange and the oil pump and flywheel sides. The last two will check the crankcase seals. If anything is leaking, the saw will stop, immediately, so you will know what is leaking. This saves a lot of time pressure testing the saw with a Mighty Vac.
Good advice I allways take muffler off first thing to check 2 stroke
after seeing all the scoring and the hole in the piston its amazing it still even runs
Thank you for the good advice.
thanks, have a good weekend!
Always learn when watching a pro...thank you.
Great advice about taking off the muffler.
I should have done it right from the start!
Thanks for making this video very helpful and educational.
This is awesome advice. Thank you for sharing. 👍🇨🇦
Wow I didn't see that one coming good job brother thank you once again
Awesome information thanks for the tip ! Wow a hole crazy !
insane isn't it, this saw has paid itself many times!
Great video. Thanks for all the knowledge!!!!
thanks, have a great friday!
Unbelievable !! Amazing that it ran. I have had carbon scored saws act that way. But never had one that ran looking like that. Awesome video !! 👍
thanks Michael!
Good vid. Got an MS441 and really like it.
Absolutely fascinating! Thank you for the continuing education, Don! 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
What a video! Now that's my man; super super tip when buying a used chainsaw. So, I consider myself lucky 'cause I bought 2 and they're running just fine.
Wow ! Excellent advice Don....Merci beaucoup !
Thank you for the great information.
My chain saw is corded electric since I only use it about once every 10 years. Stihl is a good brand gas chain saw.
Excellent advice!!!
I've got a 441c thats 10 years old and alot of firewood and chainsaw milling behind it. It's still running ok,but when I tuned it up this spring I checked the compression and it's down to 130psi. It's still got some life left in it but I'd love to see a rebuild video on it for when the time comes. I'd be torn between a $399 oem top end or a meteor kit for $150.
Our shop had a 441 come in with a larger piece of the skirt missing and it ran as well. It wouldn’t idle, but it will run at full throttle.
Thank you for excellent advice! Once again I have learned potentially money saving tips from your videos.
Sometimes scoring on the exhaust side can be from overheating due to either the spark arrestor being clogged, or running the saw with a dull chain.
You don't really need to take the muffler off. You cand just use a small flashlight and look through the sparkplug hole. Usually the scoring happens in the exhaust side and if the piston is scored most likely you will see scoring on the exhaust side of the cylinder too .
What about a bore scope
amazing, I'd have guessed pulse line
I'm glad you made this video cause I naught a husky 262 last fall and iv been having a lot of trouble getting it to run it's got compression but I looked at the exhaust side a few weeks ago and it's scored pretty bad. It was suppoaably just rulebuilt with new piston and rings and carb may be new aswell but cylinder is one. I believe I don't know how it got so scored the gas i put in was super rich
I had a similar problem with Jonsered 2156 piston was bad burned, but chainsaw run exelent. Great video. Pozdrav
Thanks Don
Thank you for the insight! I have a weed wackier that may have the same issue! I will look.
West Coast Muscle Saws has a video on this very issue. Excellent stuff.
I have this same saw. It feels like a cadillac of chainsaws. I hope the piston looks alot better than the one in this guy's saw!
Good tip dony 👍🏼
I went to buy a couple saws and asked ahead of time if I could pull the mufflers. No problem in fact one saw was scored and I got it for next to nothing. But I have had sellers refuse so ask before you take a long trip to see a saw because not all sellers will let you take it off. The honest ones will. Great video. Simple things first!
good tips Ken!
Is it recommended to change the gaskets when removing and reinstalling the muffler?
@@wingerrrrrrrrr only of they are leaking
Awesome video just flat wonderful!!
That there is a good marketing tool for stihl. My goodness that thing should have even started let alone cut...i actually bought a used Husky...exact same thing happened to me . I knew my mix was right I cut maybe 2 hours with it and then I checked your video and Steve pull that muffler and it was and it was scarred up . I didn't have a dime-sized hole in the Piston but it still ran kind of..but still have good compression I couldn't understand it..would you rebuild that saw??? Seems like it would be worth it.... great video Donnie
never ever seen that. but it makes sense. my initial thought and it could be as well on an older saw is a case pressure leak. with the hole in the piston until the piston drops below the exhaust port it would vent case to exhaust. thus lower pulse pressure and reduced fuel. one thing to note on the compression guage- husqvarna in their manuals want you to use their guages. the hoses are shorter (like really short and smaller volume). first they only want 3 pulses to get the reading and second it eliminates a lot of pulling. any guage if you pull long enough will give you a maximum compression but with fewer pulls it makes compression loss from worn rings and cylinders into consideration.
good info, thanks!
Excellent work. Thank you.
Many thanks!
My grandfather bought a Stihl based because the local hydro crew was equipped with them. It would never start for him. I took it twice to a repair shop in Sundridge. To this day, it Stihl won't start. It would make a good boat anchor.
Great advice, thanks Don!
Well done.
Nice lesson learned donnyboy!
Awesome tip!! Thanks Don!!
Thanks for the video don!! You help me a lot with your knowledge!!
Glad to hear!
That is surprising that it had that good of compression with the piston and sleeve in that condition. You give some good tips as well donyboy!
yes I couldn't believe it ran like that!
D @ D. My diagnosis was completely wrong. I was visualizing bad ignition coil, after it heated up. I used Sthil 440 at work a lot, loved it. Can't afford one in my retired years, but I've been happy with poor man's Echo Timberwolf 590. :).
your echo is a good saw
@@donyboy73 Indeed!
If the seller doesn't want you to take off the muffler, they may let you take out the spark plug. You can usually see if the cylinder is scored with a bright pen light.
I love my 440, that I built a couple of years ago. I thought the chain was not up to my specs. My 440 will fly through small woods, like you were cutting. My bet is - a bad boot made it run lean and smoked the top end. I would do a leak down test on it, too. I will bet the seals are smoked, too.
My opinion is based upon my chainsaws and gas blowers. The way these engines are designed, a leakdown test wouldn't tell him anything he doesn't already know. Piston rings were giving him excellent compression. There are no valves in the cylinder head. The cylinder and cylinder head is one piece, so no gaskets or sealing surfaces. Therefore, a leakdown test would not tell him anything.
@@danburch9989 you are probably right but it tells you where it is leaking and how much. Most two cycles behave irrationally, if they run at all, with air leaks. Last week I built a 372 and had not installed the oil pump when I tried to get it to pop. It wouldn’t do anything, until I put two short screws in the oil pump holes and then it ran, rather irrationally until I put the oil pump and spacer on. Then it cranked and ran fine for a new engine. If a saw is running irrationally I usually look at the seals, however they are sometimes leaking so bad the saw will not even start. The Mighty Vac tell me which seal is leaking, but if it is seals it probably is bearings, too, because something wiped the seals out.
Excellent video 👍✔️✔️
Great video as always. hard to believe how much compression the saw had in that condition. Did the customer fix it or what?
Awesome video!!!
wow.....that compression check would have led me down the wrong path.....thanks
Great advice. Thanks!
thanks Richard, have a great weekend!
Nice video. Did you end up putting a cylinder kit in it? Thanks
Not yet
Great tip. Thanks
I have a 034 stihl it works good I find it hard to get parts for it in Canada, and when I order from Amazon it's always wrong fit and where I take it to a mechanic they tell me cant get parts for it anymore is this a new sales pitch
Great info, thanks mate!
Great video Donyboy73!!
Hello, Mr Don, new sub here. I like the way you admit mistake. Great channel, great content. I stumble upon TH-cam recom, and subbed immediately.
Salam hormat dari Java - Indonesia.
Wow that will affect the scavaging never seen that