I spent way to long taking apart the dryer. There is an access panel in the back with the vent tube. Pull that out and you can get to evarything involved. I hope this will save someone else time. Now if your looking to clean out the dryer while changing out parts I would suggest this video.
This will fix an he error code as well. Literally taken my dryer apart maybe 40 times chasing different issues 97% of those times it was that sensor either corroded or malfunctioning. If the inside of your dryer is wet at all just go ahead and swap it
Ours has an HE error code. Thermistor was replaced last year. Heating element seems ok. What are the two components attached to the heating elements housing and what kind of resistance reading should I be looking for to test if they are OK?
Hi Dude, some older Samsung models have an access panel on the back of the dryer but most of the new models have to be disassembled similar to the process that we show.
I have no power to my dryer now. I been troubleshooting and I noticed my therm-o-disc T-105 has a 105K ohms, could this be the main issue? Ps, I heard a low sounding pop and burnt smell when I tried to turn on the dryer before I lost power.
Hi, im getting the TS code and my thermistor is reading 160, can it even go that high? the dryer turns on for 5 seconds then shuts off with the TS code.
Hello, the 11.27 resistance rating you had in the video. Was that indicative that it was reading too high for room temperature? I have been having problems with the tC code on my dryer, and tested the thermistor and it showed resistance right around the chart. How far off does the resistance need to be to be a defective thermistor?
The resistance rating shown in the video is for a good thermistor. Samsung does not specify the tolerances for a bad thermistor. Our guess would be that the thermistor would need to be off by 5-10% or more to be considered defective/bad. Since the thermistor is pretty cheap, it would probably be a good idea to replace it either way. If the error code still persists, then you could have bad wiring between the thermistor and the main control board or a bad main control board.
Im having a very strange issue, replaced element and all thermal fuses, and thermistor, AND main board. Turns out they were all fine. Everything meters fine. Testing both at the components and at the board connectors. No shorts. when I power up the the dryer and enter the diagnostic mode and go to option 5 (current temperature) its reading the ambient room temp as 200f or higher. This is fooling the system into not engaging the heater relays, as it thinks it is already at temp. This is the same with original thermistor and the new one (both test fine with meter). When I run the test mode the motor and heater both fire up no problem and it reports OK. What else could possibly be causing this? Keeping in mind I have already wasted almost $300 on a new main board that did not solve the issue. Samsung DV42H5600EF/AC
It sounds like you have replaced everything but the wiring. This type of issue is not something that can be solved through a TH-cam comment. We would check to make sure your thermistor is a new OEM part. We see a lot of issues with aftermarket and knockoff ones being sold on eBay and Amazon.
@@PartsDr *Update* for anyone with similar issues: After testing and replacing all parts, including main board, the ultimate culprit was infact the motor (or more specifically the centrifugal switch on the motor). Turns out that even though the motor was turning fine, and when I ran a testmode that manually fired the motor and heater relays, the switch on the motor was not functioning properly, thus not sending the "ok" signal back to the board to close the heater relay during normal operation. changed it out and everything is as good as new!
Hello. I need to find out if the thermistor is universal for all Samsung dryers? I don't see a model or serial number anywhere on the unit. I am getting the t5 error code.
Hi, I don’t have any error codes on my front load Samsung dryer but it runs hot on all settings even set on extra low it will run full heat as soon as it’s turned on, please help, thank you
Hello, I'm getting ~12.5K Ohms. Likely upper 60s in the basement. When I run dryer vent blockage test I get error code CL9 (90% blocked). Vent is totally free and clear. Dryer also shuts off after about 3 seconds into any cycle. Display remains on, and dryer can be restarted. Runs for another 3 seconds and stops. Any chance it's the thermistor even though resistance reading appears to be in range?
Hey, I just bought a used dryer and was lied to that it worked… exact same thing is occurring with mine that is occurring with yours and they are similar models. I’m wondering if you ever figured out the fix. I’ve already taken this thing apart and tested many of the components and all are showing continuity/proper ohm test. Thanks for your help
@@jonneighbor1347 - Unfortunately, I reached the point where the time investment in debugging wasn’t worth it anymore - bought another one. I can confirm replacing the motor, and thermistor did not resolve the problem. My hunch is that it needed a main board, but never confirmed.
Hi, My name is Tony. I hope somebody could help. One day my Samsung (10 years old DV218AEW/XAC) electric dryer stops after 20 secs start-up and hE code appears. I checked and cleaned out the filter. The tube from the filter housing to the back is blocked solid with dog hair, wet lint. I cleaned everything out, blow-dried the vent completely with my garden blower. Still starts and stops after 20 secs. What could be the problem? Thank you so much for your help.
@@PartsDr thanks for the reply. Got the manufacturer to send a tech to fix it. It was a connector to the temperature controller that went loose. He simply pulled apart the unit, pushed that connector back on and reassemble the unit and voila!!! It’s working as it should. I’m just disappointed with the default authorized repair company they had. Apparently, Tekniton never answered my emails OR my 30+ phone calls throughout the days. Had Samsung call them and email them on my behalf and no response. I simply canceled Tekniton and hired someone within Samsung network that came the next day. Funny story. Tekniton immediately started making numerous phone calls to me after I canceled them and got the work done already. I tried to call them to yell at them for their delayed and poor service but same MO; no answer or return calls OR ability to leave voice mail.
Samsung dryer not heating? Test these 5 things first! th-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/w-d-xo.html Learn how to replace your Samsung dryer thermistor here: th-cam.com/video/9ep9bfxJBGY/w-d-xo.html
![PURPEECH - นี่ฉันเองคนที่... (It's me) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NuhHd0hOOg8/mqdefault.jpg)
I spent way to long taking apart the dryer. There is an access panel in the back with the vent tube. Pull that out and you can get to evarything involved. I hope this will save someone else time. Now if your looking to clean out the dryer while changing out parts I would suggest this video.
Thanks for sharing! Unfortunately, all of the newer Samsung dryers do not have this rear access panel.
Thank you for the video. Question. Can a bad thermistor force the drier to get stuck in cooling mode after drying?
This will fix an he error code as well. Literally taken my dryer apart maybe 40 times chasing different issues 97% of those times it was that sensor either corroded or malfunctioning. If the inside of your dryer is wet at all just go ahead and swap it
Ours has an HE error code. Thermistor was replaced last year. Heating element seems ok. What are the two components attached to the heating elements housing and what kind of resistance reading should I be looking for to test if they are OK?
They are the high limit thermal fuse and high limit thermostat. Learn how to test them in this video here: th-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/w-d-xo.html
There's a access panel on the back of the dryer. You don't need to disassemble to remove the thermistor.
Hi Dude, some older Samsung models have an access panel on the back of the dryer but most of the new models have to be disassembled similar to the process that we show.
I have no power to my dryer now. I been troubleshooting and I noticed my therm-o-disc T-105 has a 105K ohms, could this be the main issue? Ps, I heard a low sounding pop and burnt smell when I tried to turn on the dryer before I lost power.
Hello, can the thermal fuse for the heating element be used on the blower housing?
No it cannot, they have different temperature ratings.
Hi, im getting the TS code and my thermistor is reading 160, can it even go that high? the dryer turns on for 5 seconds then shuts off with the TS code.
It sounds like you have a bad thermistor from what you describe.
Hello, the 11.27 resistance rating you had in the video. Was that indicative that it was reading too high for room temperature? I have been having problems with the tC code on my dryer, and tested the thermistor and it showed resistance right around the chart. How far off does the resistance need to be to be a defective thermistor?
The resistance rating shown in the video is for a good thermistor. Samsung does not specify the tolerances for a bad thermistor. Our guess would be that the thermistor would need to be off by 5-10% or more to be considered defective/bad. Since the thermistor is pretty cheap, it would probably be a good idea to replace it either way. If the error code still persists, then you could have bad wiring between the thermistor and the main control board or a bad main control board.
Relatable. Thanks for this discussion.
Did you figure it out?
Im having a very strange issue, replaced element and all thermal fuses, and thermistor, AND main board. Turns out they were all fine.
Everything meters fine. Testing both at the components and at the board connectors. No shorts.
when I power up the the dryer and enter the diagnostic mode and go to option 5 (current temperature) its reading the ambient room temp as 200f or higher. This is fooling the system into not engaging the heater relays, as it thinks it is already at temp. This is the same with original thermistor and the new one (both test fine with meter). When I run the test mode the motor and heater both fire up no problem and it reports OK.
What else could possibly be causing this? Keeping in mind I have already wasted almost $300 on a new main board that did not solve the issue.
Samsung DV42H5600EF/AC
It sounds like you have replaced everything but the wiring. This type of issue is not something that can be solved through a TH-cam comment. We would check to make sure your thermistor is a new OEM part. We see a lot of issues with aftermarket and knockoff ones being sold on eBay and Amazon.
@@PartsDr *Update* for anyone with similar issues: After testing and replacing all parts, including main board, the ultimate culprit was infact the motor (or more specifically the centrifugal switch on the motor). Turns out that even though the motor was turning fine, and when I ran a testmode that manually fired the motor and heater relays, the switch on the motor was not functioning properly, thus not sending the "ok" signal back to the board to close the heater relay during normal operation.
changed it out and everything is as good as new!
@@bw905 Thanks for the update! Those motor centrifugal switches are very tricky troubleshoot.
Hello. I need to find out if the thermistor is universal for all Samsung dryers? I don't see a model or serial number anywhere on the unit. I am getting the t5 error code.
Did you check for the model tag in the locations we show here th-cam.com/video/UvHSikCsMAw/w-d-xo.html
Ok I’ve got it. Thank you
Hi, I don’t have any error codes on my front load Samsung dryer but it runs hot on all settings even set on extra low it will run full heat as soon as it’s turned on, please help, thank you
Test the heating element for a short like we show in this video here: th-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared&t=146
I have an issue with an open box Samsung flex dryer it is displaying the error message: FC. I want to know how I can resolve this issue
According to Samsung the FC error means "This code means that there is an invalid power source frequency. To fix this, try restarting the cycle."
Will this cause the dryer not to heat up?
Yes it can. Most commonly you will receive one of these error codes tS (t5), tO (t0), and tC or tC5.
My dryer overheats clothes, could it be faulty that dryer thermistor?
I checked with the multimeter , no continuity and no Ohms.
@@SaresMLee The thermistor will NOT show continuity. Make sure to test according to the instructions in the video.
Hello, I'm getting ~12.5K Ohms. Likely upper 60s in the basement. When I run dryer vent blockage test I get error code CL9 (90% blocked). Vent is totally free and clear. Dryer also shuts off after about 3 seconds into any cycle. Display remains on, and dryer can be restarted. Runs for another 3 seconds and stops.
Any chance it's the thermistor even though resistance reading appears to be in range?
It does not sound like a bad thermistor if it is testing within the correct ohm range. What is the model number of your dryer?
@@PartsDr Samsung DVE45R6100C/A3
Hey, I just bought a used dryer and was lied to that it worked… exact same thing is occurring with mine that is occurring with yours and they are similar models. I’m wondering if you ever figured out the fix. I’ve already taken this thing apart and tested many of the components and all are showing continuity/proper ohm test. Thanks for your help
@@jonneighbor1347 - Unfortunately, I reached the point where the time investment in debugging wasn’t worth it anymore - bought another one. I can confirm replacing the motor, and thermistor did not resolve the problem. My hunch is that it needed a main board, but never confirmed.
Hi, My name is Tony. I hope somebody could help. One day my Samsung (10 years old DV218AEW/XAC) electric dryer stops after 20 secs start-up and hE code appears. I checked and cleaned out the filter. The tube from the filter housing to the back is blocked solid with dog hair, wet lint. I cleaned everything out, blow-dried the vent completely with my garden blower. Still starts and stops after 20 secs. What could be the problem? Thank you so much for your help.
Try checking the thing we show in this video here: th-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/w-d-xo.html
My thermistor was bad. How do I reset my dryer? It's still throwing error code
You can try this: th-cam.com/video/U_3ANG-HwqE/w-d-xo.html
I finished installing a brand new Samsung dryer and instantly, it goes TC error code. I’m about to get on Samsung’s case for such a problem
If it is brand new, take it back to the store and ask them to exchange it for a working one.
@@PartsDr thanks for the reply. Got the manufacturer to send a tech to fix it. It was a connector to the temperature controller that went loose. He simply pulled apart the unit, pushed that connector back on and reassemble the unit and voila!!! It’s working as it should.
I’m just disappointed with the default authorized repair company they had. Apparently, Tekniton never answered my emails OR my 30+ phone calls throughout the days. Had Samsung call them and email them on my behalf and no response. I simply canceled Tekniton and hired someone within Samsung network that came the next day.
Funny story. Tekniton immediately started making numerous phone calls to me after I canceled them and got the work done already. I tried to call them to yell at them for their delayed and poor service but same MO; no answer or return calls OR ability to leave voice mail.
Taking the door off? For real? I've fixed about 10,000 of these, and never took the door off.
You are free to do whatever you like.
How did you solve it??
Samsung dryer not heating? Test these 5 things first! th-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/w-d-xo.html
Learn how to replace your Samsung dryer thermistor here: th-cam.com/video/9ep9bfxJBGY/w-d-xo.html