I used to do this using an old ALPS printer. They utilized a material that was like resin/wax based stuff. The results were over the top. This is definitely a much easier technique. Great idea, great result.
Chris I just got to say of all the luthier channels that I follow yours is rapidly becoming my favorite I still got to give props to Dell Puckett but seriously you have helped my Guitar Building if not more than at least as much as anyone else you're awesome keep your channel going keep your content going and thank you
Great to. See these ideas and how to do them, what was the glue please, do think you could show how to use material, silk, or other fine woven material thanks again
That’s crafting. I just wanted to try dtf transfer without stripping my guitar down. Thank you for tips. I found that DTF has better ink quality, than consumer inkjet might want to check it out. I can’t believe you got plain paper to transfer like a temporary tattoo.
Great video. Another quick way to clear it is to go to your local autobody supplier and get a 2 part urethane clear coat. PPG or Sherwin Williams and spray 5- 6 coats. Sand it smooth and spray another 2-3 coats. Gives it a nice wet look.
My God, wouldnt a Fallout 4 version just be CAPITOL!! (great video) I was thinking the Fallout 4 magazines you find throughout the wasteland. "Rob Co.", "Manhunter" and "How to charm people!!" Very 50's comic yet gamer nerd. How many gamers can play good enough who also LOVE Fallout 4? Wish I could see that. Great work just as well.
Thank you for the information, I am trying to lay a high gloss vinyl on mine and I want to air brush the edges like you did. Kind of feather it in so that it fades to the black of the guitar. What you did shows me what it might look like. thank you again for the ideas
once i made my guitar with printed top i made it a little bit different 1 i painted the body white 2 i printed the image as it was on b3 paper roll on a printer from ebay i got for 10$ hp1220c if i remember corectly 3 i coated the body with nitro based poliurethane floor laquer, liberal coat 4 then i placed paper on top and aplied lauer again, until it fully soaked the paper, i used paint roller to squize out all the air bubbles 5 i let it dry for few days , then sanded flat 6 i spraypainted edges to blend them to the black back 7 i coated a whole thing in another sprayed layer of polyurethane guitar come uou pretty well considering i made it out of some hardware store pain 2by2
I want to do this to my acoustic with my friend’s artwork. If I was careful with the moisture I applied to the top, would it work? And could I then seal it with tru oil instead of what you used here?
I have a large format printer. Your 'wrinkling' issue may be solved by using a heavier 'rag' paper. A Somerset Velvet . . . or, better yet try a gloss paper which should hold its shape and have higher resolution. Learning a lot from your videos. Just a hobbyist, transferring fine briar tobacco pipe-making skills to the fabrication of guitars.
Interesting orientation. I like playing my guitars more than looking at them on display. I'd have oriented the graphics to be right side up while playing rather than lying on their side.
This is a great idea and love the design. I have a (probably silly) question: why not just stick the paper print positive straight onto the guitar and sand off around the edges and coat that with the polyurethane to harden the whole thing? Paper is wood right? Thanks :)
even better, print it as a glossy decal on glossy decal paper. for no finish or matt decalpaper with a glossy clearcoat finish. thats better than this kinda fiddling around
Dude, I would love to do a collab with you. I have 180k subs that would love to see a guitar-body illustration tutorial that I could create, where you could then make it a reality on a guitar. We could possibly hit it out of the park with some good viral coverage if we do it right. ;) If you're interested, let me know, if not -- no worries! Great stuff!
Gotta agree. There are faster, easier, and cheaper ways to do this. Been doing this kind of thing forever (not on guitars though, just started building those). This is just overkill, plain and simple.
@@bondoman2k Hey I'm trying to do this same thing with a watercolor to my natural finish guitar. It's a painting that means a lot to me, could we get in contact to talk about your strategies for this?
Or you can go to SkinYourSkunk.com and just get a vinyl wrap and be done. And yes, they'll print your own graphic. And yes, it can be clear coated once applied.
Cool. I have an A3 (11.69 x 16.53 inches, ) printer which I bought to print my own fabric for use in my sewing. I think I might grab a cheap strat copy to do this. My lady is a very talented artist, it would be cool if I could put her work on a guitar.
Hey ! I am a photographer and a mixed media artist and I do a lot of photo transfers. I have used basic laser printers so far. I've always thought it was more convenient cause the ink dried faster but I am looking for a a new printer that both prints larger size paper (at least A3) and that can also print my photos on different type of papers. Do you have any recommendations ? Are you happy with your printer ?
Hi. I use an Epson (WF7610).It's huge because it has the scanner and copier, but they do make a printer only version which is considerably less bulky. I went with the Epson because these particular models (the Workforce range) use pigment based ink in their branded cartridges (dye based ink is no good for anything where water resistence is needed and most inkjet cartridges use dye based ink). It's more cost effective, however, to buy refillable carts and fill them with pigment ink yourself. Any decent inkjet for which refillable cartridges are available (after market products obviously not official) will do the trick, but it's best to find one with a straight through feed at the back so thicker materials don't have to go through the rollers (which sufficiently thick/stiff materials simply couldn't do anyway). I'm very happy with it and am glad I can print larger pieces. I print paper, cardstock, fabric from silk to sackcloth, even wood.
I guess a lot of this has to do with different ways to finish. I've been wanting to do a series of partcasters, i think photo transfer of the graphic to bare wood, then clean & apply multiple coats of tung oil. I don't want six months of curing nitro, but to each there own.
Use this instead. Cures in 1-2 minutes when exposed to sunlight, sands easily, and buffs out to a nice high gloss shine. www.solarez.com/product/i-cant-believe-its-not-lacquer-quart-only/
How do you fill the electronics and pots bay? Currently my strat has a scratch plate. Once the scratch plate is removed it exposes much of the inside of the body. Should I consider keeping the scratch plate over my design or fill the electronics bay to reconfigure the guitar?
@@JezAuditore Great thank you. And if I wanted to take the scratch plate out altogether and have a finish similar to your demo where only the pick ups and knobs are on the outside? What's the best material to fill the "gap" left by the pickguard?
@@darenwilliams4149 what's under your pick guard? Is it just empty gap because that is a bit odd? If so you can fill it with wood cut to size and wood filler (or the whole lot in wood filler). Overfill it and then you can sand down to match the size of your guitar and make it smooth before putting a base coat of paint on. It's it quite a significant gap though filling it all up has the possibility of affecting sound quality as I assume the gap is there for a reason :)
@@JezAuditore Thanks for the tip. The gap holds the pots and wire underneath the pickguard. I could fill but it may be a better option to keep the pickguard and use it in my design. Appreciate your feedback ;)
@@darenwilliams4149 yeah, you don't want to fill that up. If you ever need to get to the wires after its filled you will have loads of problems. Why not paint the pickguard or buy one that compliments your new design? :)
Looks good but you should really use a nitrocellulose lacquer instead of polyurethane. Polyurethane has a tendency to dull the tone of the guitar whereas nitrocellulose lacquer does not. Lacquer is really good for leveling a surface and can be sanded and polished to brilliant finish.
Do you have proof that polyurethane dulls tone? Most guitar manufacturers today use polyurethane or polyester finishes because nitro turns yellow and cracks.
Highline Guitars , my only proof is my experience. I built a guitar in 2009 that I originally left unfinished. After several years (around 2015) it started to pick up some discoloration from the oils in my skin so I decided to put a finish on it to protect it. I went with polyurethane and definitely noticed a significant loss of the ringing tones it had before. I done a little internet research and decided to strip the guitar and try a nitrocellulose lacquer. I went with a brand that marketed it as yellowing resistant. I was noticed during the application that a lot of the imperfections that showed through the poly were leveled out by the nitro. The ringing tone came back too (admittedly not as good as unfinished but better than poly). Seeing you have leveling issues with your application made me think about the nitrocellulose lacquer but, I'm not really sure what the glue you used would do to the tone so there may not be any advantage.
Is it possible to shoot nitrocellulose over the graphics instead of the water based poly? Maybe coat with a sanding sealer before hitting it with nitro? I'm in Germany and finding certain finish coats is very difficult to find. Nitro on the other hand is extremely easy to find. I also have access to automobile paint in spray cans. In German, any kind of a paint is a lacquer. Or in German, Lack. Swarzelack, klarlack, Weißlack and on and on. Trying to find the correct stuff is insanely difficult. Bob in Germany
You're giving me too many choices! First ordinary acrylic paints, then artist oils and now this - - my head is spinning trying to decide what to do next...
It looks like you lost some of the colour in the transfer, would that be fair to say? I print on fabric using an inkjet, and to account for the small amount of ink that gets rinsed away I use GIMP to increase the colour saturation of the image I'm using by 25-30% . That said, using those old comic covers for this top, faded colours is fitting.
Why did you choose water based poly over an oil base poly ? Oil base is much more durable and will outlast the water base as far as yellowing and flaking. Awesome idea though I really dig it.
I've used both extensively on hundreds of guitars and have never had any of the problems you mention. Maybe you're using poor quality products or are just applying them wrong.
Great video! I really appreciate how you included the "blemish", and also showed us how to correct that. Great instructing skills!
I used to do this using an old ALPS printer. They utilized a material that was like resin/wax based stuff. The results were over the top. This is definitely a much easier technique. Great idea, great result.
Chris I just got to say of all the luthier channels that I follow yours is rapidly becoming my favorite I still got to give props to Dell Puckett but seriously you have helped my Guitar Building if not more than at least as much as anyone else you're awesome keep your channel going keep your content going and thank you
Great to. See these ideas and how to do them, what was the glue please, do think you could show how to use material, silk, or other fine woven material thanks again
If I ever do it, I will.
That is such a cool idea. You make the technique look easy. Definitely going to try it.
Super cool!
Seems to apply to flat-face guitars only though, correct?
Incorrect. You can do it on a contoured surface if you do it in sections and plan it out correctly.
That’s crafting. I just wanted to try dtf transfer without stripping my guitar down. Thank you for tips. I found that DTF has better ink quality, than consumer inkjet might want to check it out. I can’t believe you got plain paper to transfer like a temporary tattoo.
Great video. Another quick way to clear it is to go to your local autobody supplier and get a 2 part urethane clear coat. PPG or Sherwin Williams and spray 5- 6 coats. Sand it smooth and spray another 2-3 coats. Gives it a nice wet look.
My God, wouldnt a Fallout 4 version just be CAPITOL!! (great video) I was thinking the Fallout 4 magazines you find throughout the wasteland. "Rob Co.", "Manhunter" and "How to charm people!!" Very 50's comic yet gamer nerd. How many gamers can play good enough who also LOVE Fallout 4? Wish I could see that. Great work just as well.
Best thing to happen on TV/online in forever!!!
Oh cool dude. My mom and I did this 30 years ago. Works great to decorate glass Christmas ornaments.
Why not use lacquer?
I do.
Thanks for responding, how did you get the correct size of the guitar on you’re program?
Thank you for the information, I am trying to lay a high gloss vinyl on mine and I want to air brush the edges like you did. Kind of feather it in so that it fades to the black of the guitar. What you did shows me what it might look like. thank you again for the ideas
First video I’ve enjoyed in a long time to many out there are like pulling eye teeth to get through
Them
Thank you for a fresh video
once i made my guitar with printed top i made it a little bit different
1 i painted the body white
2 i printed the image as it was on b3 paper roll on a printer from ebay i got for 10$ hp1220c if i remember corectly
3 i coated the body with nitro based poliurethane floor laquer, liberal coat
4 then i placed paper on top and aplied lauer again, until it fully soaked the paper, i used paint roller to squize out all the air bubbles
5 i let it dry for few days , then sanded flat
6 i spraypainted edges to blend them to the black back
7 i coated a whole thing in another sprayed layer of polyurethane
guitar come uou pretty well considering i made it out of some hardware store pain 2by2
I want to do this to my acoustic with my friend’s artwork. If I was careful with the moisture I applied to the top, would it work? And could I then seal it with tru oil instead of what you used here?
Chris best looking one on the intertubes. nicely done!
Just what I was looking for. Thank you!
I will definitely be trying this in the future. Thanks for the video. It was very inspiring.
I have a large format printer. Your 'wrinkling' issue may be solved by using a heavier 'rag' paper. A Somerset Velvet . . . or, better yet try a gloss paper which should hold its shape and have higher resolution. Learning a lot from your videos. Just a hobbyist, transferring fine briar tobacco pipe-making skills to the fabrication of guitars.
Very nice! Thank you for this video!
Is there a picture of the finished product
i'm wanting to place a Metatron cube with the universe behind it covering the guitar. question is, can the rest of the body be green?
If there's any white in the image you plan to use, the guitar has to be white unless your printer can print white, which it probably can't.
Very cool technique. Thanks for sharing. This technique produces a nice look.
Finally now I can make my own OJ Simpson mugshot guitar
🤣🤣🤣🤣
How did you scan the real guitar body into Illustrator for the right measurements?
I didn't scan it. I made the body from a plan I drew on my computer. I used that drawing to make the print file.
Interesting orientation. I like playing my guitars more than looking at them on display. I'd have oriented the graphics to be right side up while playing rather than lying on their side.
The owner requested it that way because he doesn't play. He only wanted wall art.
Is there a video or link to the best paint and application method to support this kind of printed image application?
Just use any flat white paint. Spray it or brush it.
This is a great idea and love the design. I have a (probably silly) question: why not just stick the paper print positive straight onto the guitar and sand off around the edges and coat that with the polyurethane to harden the whole thing? Paper is wood right? Thanks :)
even better, print it as a glossy decal on glossy decal paper. for no finish or matt decalpaper with a glossy clearcoat finish. thats better than this kinda fiddling around
Dude, I would love to do a collab with you. I have 180k subs that would love to see a guitar-body illustration tutorial that I could create, where you could then make it a reality on a guitar. We could possibly hit it out of the park with some good viral coverage if we do it right. ;) If you're interested, let me know, if not -- no worries! Great stuff!
Did you see how much glue he used... Its a piece of paper/fabric whatever on a guitar, not a 747 airline. I just saved you money! RUN!
Gotta agree. There are faster, easier, and cheaper ways to do this. Been doing this kind of thing forever (not on guitars though, just started building those). This is just overkill, plain and simple.
@@bondoman2k Hey I'm trying to do this same thing with a watercolor to my natural finish guitar. It's a painting that means a lot to me, could we get in contact to talk about your strategies for this?
Thanks! I was wondering how Bettie Page was going to get on my guitar!
Would the same technique work on pickguards?
I think it would depend on the pickguard's material. If it's wood, I don't see why not other than potential warpage. If it's plastic, I don't know.
that's so cool !! great job is there a follow up video?
Great video as always. I tried this technique recently, but I lacked the patience necessary. I'll try again with your tips.
I am trying to do this on an acoustic guitar do u think it's gonna work?? Hope u answer
That all depends on you.
I have a crappy guitar body I might try this on.
Exactly the tutorial I was looking for! Great work, and many thanks. 👍
YOU SHOULD TRY CLEAR BAR TOP EPOXY FOR THE CLEAR COAT... ONE COAT!
What kind of mod podge are you using? Is this the matte?
It was the gloss luster.
@@HighlineGuitars thx so much for the quick response
Or you can go to SkinYourSkunk.com and just get a vinyl wrap and be done. And yes, they'll print your own graphic. And yes, it can be clear coated once applied.
BRILLIANT!!! I’m totally ripping off this method!! (only mod I will probably make is printing onto a water transfer decal).... :)
That looks badass!
Cool. I have an A3 (11.69 x 16.53 inches, ) printer which I bought to print my own fabric for use in my sewing. I think I might grab a cheap strat copy to do this. My lady is a very talented artist, it would be cool if I could put her work on a guitar.
Hey ! I am a photographer and a mixed media artist and I do a lot of photo transfers. I have used basic laser printers so far. I've always thought it was more convenient cause the ink dried faster but I am looking for a a new printer that both prints larger size paper (at least A3) and that can also print my photos on different type of papers. Do you have any recommendations ? Are you happy with your printer ?
Hi. I use an Epson (WF7610).It's huge because it has the scanner and copier, but they do make a printer only version which is considerably less bulky. I went with the Epson because these particular models (the Workforce range) use pigment based ink in their branded cartridges (dye based ink is no good for anything where water resistence is needed and most inkjet cartridges use dye based ink). It's more cost effective, however, to buy refillable carts and fill them with pigment ink yourself. Any decent inkjet for which refillable cartridges are available (after market products obviously not official) will do the trick, but it's best to find one with a straight through feed at the back so thicker materials don't have to go through the rollers (which sufficiently thick/stiff materials simply couldn't do anyway). I'm very happy with it and am glad I can print larger pieces. I print paper, cardstock, fabric from silk to sackcloth, even wood.
Thank you so much for your detail answer and for the info about pigment versus Dye.
I'll look into this! Take care!
amazing job! congratulations.
Looks great and triggers
Lots of possibilities :)
you can completely avoid the wrinkles in the graphic by wet stretching the image first.
I guess a lot of this has to do with different ways to finish. I've been wanting to do a series of
partcasters, i think photo transfer of the graphic to bare wood, then clean & apply multiple coats of tung oil. I don't want six months of curing nitro, but to each there own.
Use this instead. Cures in 1-2 minutes when exposed to sunlight, sands easily, and buffs out to a nice high gloss shine. www.solarez.com/product/i-cant-believe-its-not-lacquer-quart-only/
awesome video dude
Very nice. Well explained. Cheers, MMcC
How do you fill the electronics and pots bay? Currently my strat has a scratch plate. Once the scratch plate is removed it exposes much of the inside of the body. Should I consider keeping the scratch plate over my design or fill the electronics bay to reconfigure the guitar?
Using masking tape and cover the areas you don't want painted :)
@@JezAuditore Great thank you. And if I wanted to take the scratch plate out altogether and have a finish similar to your demo where only the pick ups and knobs are on the outside? What's the best material to fill the "gap" left by the pickguard?
@@darenwilliams4149 what's under your pick guard? Is it just empty gap because that is a bit odd? If so you can fill it with wood cut to size and wood filler (or the whole lot in wood filler). Overfill it and then you can sand down to match the size of your guitar and make it smooth before putting a base coat of paint on. It's it quite a significant gap though filling it all up has the possibility of affecting sound quality as I assume the gap is there for a reason :)
@@JezAuditore Thanks for the tip. The gap holds the pots and wire underneath the pickguard. I could fill but it may be a better option to keep the pickguard and use it in my design. Appreciate your feedback ;)
@@darenwilliams4149 yeah, you don't want to fill that up. If you ever need to get to the wires after its filled you will have loads of problems. Why not paint the pickguard or buy one that compliments your new design? :)
Wow, my inkjet prints big enough to fit my guitar bodies, but can't do my Jazz Bass in one print. I'll have to keep this technique in mind!
oh yeah i am inspired. looking for images now.
Interesting approach. Whay do you do it this way vs using a water slide decal? Not a criticism at all, just curious.
Cost.
@@HighlineGuitars , ha! can't argue with that. Thanks for another great video. Definitely inspired to give something like this a go.
This idea works very well with the caveat of tediousness. Totally worth it, imo, but removing that paper is a chore, lol
Looks awesome!
are you using plain paper or label paper w/o the labels ?
Plain.
VERY cool idea!!
Dude you’re awesome
What’s your contact info do you do work for people
This is impressive.
Does the guitar have to be white? Can it be black?
It really needs to be white because the printouts become transparent when they contact the glue.
@@HighlineGuitars okay, I really appreciate the speedy reply! And awesome tutorial
My guitar body isn’t completely flat would this work with a Les Paul body even though it bumps out
Yes, it will work on an uneven surface. You might want to have a couple of sandbags hand to lay on top to press down any potential wrinkles.
Can images only work with inkjet printers?
No. You can use a laser printer as well.
Thanks
looks great & thanks again for these video's !! :)
Looks good but you should really use a nitrocellulose lacquer instead of polyurethane. Polyurethane has a tendency to dull the tone of the guitar whereas nitrocellulose lacquer does not. Lacquer is really good for leveling a surface and can be sanded and polished to brilliant finish.
Do you have proof that polyurethane dulls tone? Most guitar manufacturers today use polyurethane or polyester finishes because nitro turns yellow and cracks.
Highline Guitars , my only proof is my experience. I built a guitar in 2009 that I originally left unfinished. After several years (around 2015) it started to pick up some discoloration from the oils in my skin so I decided to put a finish on it to protect it. I went with polyurethane and definitely noticed a significant loss of the ringing tones it had before. I done a little internet research and decided to strip the guitar and try a nitrocellulose lacquer. I went with a brand that marketed it as yellowing resistant. I was noticed during the application that a lot of the imperfections that showed through the poly were leveled out by the nitro. The ringing tone came back too (admittedly not as good as unfinished but better than poly). Seeing you have leveling issues with your application made me think about the nitrocellulose lacquer but, I'm not really sure what the glue you used would do to the tone so there may not be any advantage.
This is nice...
Do you need to go right up to the edges or can you put something judt in the centre like this?
Where's the video for the finished product?
There isn't one.
Highline Guitars yet ;)
Very cool,thanks !
Is it possible to shoot nitrocellulose over the graphics instead of the water based poly? Maybe coat with a sanding sealer before hitting it with nitro? I'm in Germany and finding certain finish coats is very difficult to find. Nitro on the other hand is extremely easy to find. I also have access to automobile paint in spray cans. In German, any kind of a paint is a lacquer. Or in German, Lack. Swarzelack, klarlack, Weißlack and on and on. Trying to find the correct stuff is insanely difficult. Bob in Germany
They got some sort of a water based poly at Bauhaus. It's not made for spraying though. I used it on my guitars and it turned out quite nice.
looks amazing :)
Looks like something from an 80’s punk rock band
If you use dye based inkjet ink it will fade in the sun. If you use pigment based it will last.
Never put a guitar in the sun.
Never play an outdoor gig then?...
Very few printers use dye inks now-a-days.
Great video, I used this to put a decal on the headstock of my modified squier bullet strat
Try clearing it with simtec polyester..
You're giving me too many choices! First ordinary acrylic paints, then artist oils and now this - - my head is spinning trying to decide what to do next...
Do them all. Three new guitars :)
I like your thinking!
It looks like you lost some of the colour in the transfer, would that be fair to say? I print on fabric using an inkjet, and to account for the small amount of ink that gets rinsed away I use GIMP to increase the colour saturation of the image I'm using by 25-30% . That said, using those old comic covers for this top, faded colours is fitting.
Pretty cool!
Don't put the gel medium on the paper,only apply to guitar, then you will not get those wrinkles.
That’s awesome!!!
Does this work with a wax finish ?
If you mean to apply a wax finish over the transfer, I would say no. Wax finishes often contain solvents which might ruin the image.
well, still pics are OK, but i'd prefer to see you actually DOING what your describing so perfectly. either way i learned a lot, so thanks :)
Great idea!
Is the mod podge just glue?
It's a glue. It's a finish. However, it's not a non-dairy whipped topping.
So I can do this with PVA?
PVA turns pretty yellow when it dries. Also, Mod Podge dries slower so you have some extra working time.
So what other alternatives are there?
Liquitex Super Heavy Gel Medium amzn.to/2JCffuN
Why did you choose water based poly over an oil base poly ? Oil base is much more durable and will outlast the water base as far as yellowing and flaking. Awesome idea though I really dig it.
I've used both extensively on hundreds of guitars and have never had any of the problems you mention. Maybe you're using poor quality products or are just applying them wrong.
Chris, I'd love to speak to you regarding your audio.
Awesomeness
Awesome
Awesome !
Great video.
Why didn’t you show it finished?
Because this video was only about applying the graphic and was posted before the guitar was finished.
You're smart! ♥️😊
GREAT!!! THANKS!
Awesome, but why not show us the rest of the steps? I feel like you stopped halfway through the project here...
Because it's not done yet.
How will that affect the sustain?
As long as the flux capacitor is getting the required 1.21 gigawatts, sustain should be dramatically improved.
lol thank you for this
Now that is what I call a "timely response".
NP
Save yourself the trouble and just get the body vinyl wrapped
Wow dude
He said “Maximum Hardness”
lol.
It's the only way to get a rock-hard finish.
shut up, Beavis, LOL
TOPzera... simplesmente fantástico
👍
Ya the car wrap deal is way way easier than this.... this is an overkill with the other options out there