My goodness you may have just saved me thousands of dollars and time . I was about to take it in the dealership . I am usually a DIY kind of guy, I was scared to attempt this from another video. Someone else had a video about changing the water pump but he did the most dangerous way possible by just removing the pump without any other work. Thank goodness I stumbled upon your video ! 5 star rating for your step by step video !
So today I took my iPad out to my g35, watched this video step by step and installed my water pump! Omg, I cannot explain the relief of completing this kind of repair and the satisfaction that comes with it. The shop told me it would be around $1100 and I’ve been waiting 3 weeks for them to take my car in to fix it. Thank you so much for making this video, you helped saved me over a grand and now I can drive my baby! 🔥🚗 Anyone else doing this job, make sure you order a new tensioner, you won’t be able to get it back in without that pin in there. Good luck! 👍
I just towed my car to 2 shops hoping they could do this for me and both of them said the water pump was a money dump due to the fact of the timing chain. This video made me super confident to do it myself following step by step and boom i was done in no time.
@@emoryrodriguez9560 if u stick to it and get it done. Don’t rush. But it’s fairly simple with this video just follow those steps and pay attention to your bolts. You’d be good.
Was about to trash my 06 G35X but after watching you I think I can save her, really can't afford to get it done by a shop , you are a true life saver sir, thanks 🙏
Comments like these are the reason I keep creating and posting these videos. I’m glad I can help. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment.
Usually don’t respond on TH-cam videos but LET ME TELL YOU… this is the best video I’ve seen. I just replaced my water pump on my 04 g35 coupe. I followed this video to the tee. Only took an hour and 30 minutes. Everything went smoothly. For a second I didn’t have enough slack in the chain to remove the water pump but I turned the crank a little more and was able pull it out. Also with the tensioner. I was able to reuse mine. It still had the clip attached. The hardest part was trying to hold it in place while installing back in the timing cover. I actually ended up breaking the metal piece off of a comb and using it to secure the clip in place. Worked out like a charm Was scared to start the car so I waited about an hour then started it. Everything started right up and I proceeded to burp the air out of the system. Finally my car isn’t leaking and overheating anymore!
I’m glad to hear everything worked out. That’s the main reason and honestly created this channel to help ppl out and that’s priceless. Thank you for watching and sharing your feed back.
Got a good deal on an 05 G35 sedan last night and I couldn't pass it up even with the overheating issue going on. I've changed a dozen water pumps so I though it couldn't be that bad. Boy was I pissed when I got the new pump back home and couldn't even FIND the old pump...changed the thermostat just for the hell of it. No luck. Doing the pump tomorrow with the help of this video! Thank A2Z!
This by far is the best content available for the g35. Great work my friend 🫡 from another mechanic. I love just seeing other people properly do things right
Super good video. I love the way you showed how you did everything and the way you explained it was awesome. I subscribed to your channel. Keep wrenchin
Thank you so much i just started to learn to work on my car and no other video show the two bolt trick on releasing the water pump or loosening tension they made it look like you just reached in and BOOM. All day i spent watching and reading other material and yours made the job easy and quick. Wow thank you thank you thank..muchos besos
That’s the main reason I started this channel, I wanted to make easy to follow videos for cars enthusiast to get the job done them selfs even if they don’t have a good mechanical back ground. Thank you for watching and thank you very much for the kind words. Keep up the good work brother.
Thanks for the response.quick question.so my tensioner is not broken off like the one in the video! Is there anything different I do..or just unbolt it and remove it just like you did then rotate the crank counterclockwise to relieve tension on water pump
Has anybody still had high temperatures after changing the water pump? My car is no longer overheating but it's still running hotter than I would like. I changed the thermostat prior to changing the water pump and tensioner. My last guess is the radiator. I'm about to change that out tonight. Anybody got any other thoughts? Thanks! This is an awesome video. It made the replacement of the water pump VERY EASY. Thanks, A2Z
Before you change the radiator make sure the system has no air trapped in there. Those engines are known to trap air if not bleed right. Use a spill proof funnel and rev engine @ 2000 Rpm until fans kick on and make sure all air is out of the system. Make sure the heat is also on to the lowest setting. Let me know if that works. Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment.
What size the bolts I need as puller to remove the water pump? my G35 with 150K, water pump going strong but will change out soon to be safe, Thanks great video.
M8-1.25x50mm I found the bolt size on a manual online just tried it rn and I thought about you asking the bolt size but it's been a year since you asked so yea
I truly appreciate you spending all that time making a video to help other people out. I have an 04 G35 with 53k miles on it... last summer I changed out hoses and t-stat housing, etc. I was wondering what was involved in that WP r&r... Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching and I really appreciate your comment. If you had already changed hoses and thermostat there’s no need to change anything else with the pump. Just a quick oil change when u’re done.
@@a2zautomasters862 Any idea how many miles a factory water pump will last on my G35? It's not leaking ...just wondering when I can expect to have to change it out... THANKS... Kenny in Vegas
@@KennyInVegas all water pump that runs on a timing belt are recommended to be changed with the belt @ about 60-70K miles. Since that pump runs on a chain you could probably wait to about 80-100k if it’s not causing any problems or leak
What size bolts do you need as a puller. The bolt size for the new pump are different (8mm) from the ones that came out the original (6mm) waterpump. What do i do?
Good content, but what about the water pump bleeder screw? My Nissan Skyline 250 GT VQ25 is leaking coolant frorm that bleeder screw but no overheating and weird noises from the water pump..any sugestion.
Anyway TO GUARANTEE the timing doesnt jump a tooth or 3? im so neurotic im horrified to start it up. Would marking the chain to the water pump old and new not line up the same because of the slack? I would imagine it lines up if chain didnt jump time. please let me know.
Timing won’t change. The chain doesn’t have to line up the same way to the water pump. Your main marks are the cams and the crack shaft and those don’t change.
@@a2zautomasters862 the manual says to oil the new tensioner that it has a hole to put oil. Why doesnt anyone show this ? And ..About the timing. Pulling the tensioner out it cannot jump timing ? What if the crank is turned too far ? I wanna do what you did both the pump and tensioner. I'm just new to this car I just got it and dont wanna ruin the engine. Im doing a ton of stuff previous owner didnt.
@@user-2Hteyasizyc you can oil the new tensioner out or when you finish the job just turn the engine couple times by hand to prime it with oil. Doesn’t matter. The chain is usually rapped around cams and crank tight the timing cover has very small amount of clearance between the chain and the cover that doesn’t allow the chain to jump.
Great video!! I followed all these steps but my timing chain guide won’t fall all the way down to the left even after removing the tensioner… it won’t give me enough slack to remove water pump, should i just remove the entire timing cover??
No you don’t have to move the timing cover. I’ve seen few cases where that happened but just turn engine back counter clock wise and then back clock wise it should give you enough slack. You can use a flat head screwdriver between the water pump and the chain to gain some leverage. Plz let me know how it goes. Thank you for watching.
@@a2zautomasters862 thanks for the reply, I have been messing with it for a couple days going back and forth. It just seems not enough slack is there for the water pump to clear. I’ve attempted many different ways with no luck, the guide just doesn’t let it have enough slack.
@@pacmandc2 you’re welcome. before you take the timing cover off. Install the tensioner back and spin the engine couple times by hand then retry. Good luck. Let me know.
@@a2zautomasters862 failed again, put tensioner back on and turned it a couple times like you said. The guide stays at the same spot not allowing enough clearance.
Can’t break off in the block bc it doesn’t screw in the block. Apparently you didn’t watch the video and pay attention and used wrong size screws. YOU’RE WELCOME.
Dropped drain plug for the water pump into the area where it goes back. Any clues how to get it out. Or replacement? Tried to magnet it out but its a tricky place to get to
Oem bolts that come out of the waterpump are 6mm thread. the waterpump i have has 8mm threads. I cant seem to pull the pump with the longer 6mm bolts. It gets really tight to move the rachet but the pump will not budge. NEED HELP! Is there something im missing with the threads?
There’re two sizes bolts. One small that threads into the block to tighten the pump down and one a little bigger that tighten into the pump and not the engine block to push the pump out. The larger one should be a little bit harder because it forces the pump out.
@@a2zautomasters862 you are the man. Thank you so so much. I have learned alot with this job thanks to you. Im not gay but i would kiss you. You have saved me so much money and worry. You are the mechanic goat!
So when take the tensioner cover off I gotta push that black piece up and put a pin in there to lock it to be able to take off the tensioner or would it come off without putting a locking pin? TIA!
Did you make sure you set TDC before removing tensioner and creating slack? I have low heat from heater at idle and some chocolate milk color under my oil cap, but not much and internals and dipstick look clean. At first I thought definitely head gasket, but now I’m thinking could be water pump. I will check if it is leaking externally like where you said by AC. Can any coolant enter oil with bad water pump or would it all leak externally through weep hole?
you don’t have to set TDC. It wouldn’t change timing if you do it exactly the way I did it. Milkshake or chocolate milk under oil cap could be any water/ coolant contamination with the oil. Water pump has two O rings type seal if the one that separate the oil and coolant is bad, it could definitely mix oil and coolant. Also for low heat at idle you should check your heater core. It’s a sign of poor circulation. Let me know if you run into any issue. Thanks for watching
@@a2zautomasters862 Oh ok thank you. I saw another video that said you have to set TDC. Glad thats not the case. Definitely seems like it could be my water pump after hearing symptoms. I have an 03 G35 sedan and I could definitely see moisture down by the AC side under the car and on top of my sub frame brace. I’m only getting a tiny bit of milk under the oil cap. I did an oil change just to be safe until I can do my pump, but yeah these cars are notorious for bubbles or air pockets in the cooling system which probably explains low heat from heater at idle and why I couldn’t bleed it out all the way. Thanks again great video.👌🏻👍🏻🙏🏼
@@a2zautomasters862 hello nice video I have a 2004 g35 coupe I changed radiator and thermostat hoses coolant radiator cap and and bleed it out...but when I driving it as it warms up I run for 10 to 15 mins fine then it's starts to heat up slowly then I start accelerate it tempterture goes back to normal could it be my water pump thsnk you
Luis Gonzalez hey! And thank you for watching my video. So basically your car over heats when it’s @ low RPM and when you accelerate the temp goes back down. 1. Let the car run and watch the radiator fan, make sure it turns on before the car starts to over heat. 2. When the car starts to over heat does the temp goes down by simply revving the engine or you have to accelerate while driving for the temp to go back down?
You don’t have to do anything with the timing. You don’t have to set TDC. If you follow the video you should be perfectly fine. Thank you for watching I do appreciate your comment and question.
I just bought a g35 and I’m having the same problem with mine. Coolant leaking from the same place, overheating and it’s making sorta a grinding noise when I start it. The belts are in terrible condition there are huge chunks missing on them all through out the whole belt I’ve never seen belts this bad. Could it possibly just be the belts or do you think I should still replace the water pump?
Can you do a video on rough idle, i can't seem to find the problem after i have cleaned throttle. I think it might be that my lil door is ajar like ever so slightly and i mean slightly.
The part with the bolts used as a puller needs more explaning. The three bolts you pull out are NOT the bolts you need to pull the waterpump. You need an 8mm thread which is bigger than the 6mm that came from the water pump. IF YOU USE A 6MM THREAD TO PULL THE WATERPUMP YOU WILL BREAK THE BOLT OR STRIP THE THREADS. Dont do what i did it will cost you a headache.
Hello, I took out the water pump and the chain gained all the tension back. Why did that happened and can I just loosen the crankshaft pulley again or will it mess the timing up?
Hey, I’m really not sure what happened there. If there was tension on the chain on the pump side the pump wouldn’t come out. The only thing I can think of is the cams rolled and pulled the chain back. Q1 did you move all the slack to the pump side and remove the tensioner out before you remove the pump? Q2 Was the pump easy to come out or was it stock on the chain?
i didnt see a way to keep the timing chain alligned with the water pump in the video, is there something im missing? for example when i take the tensioner out and the water pump... how do i know it is aligned perfectly?
@@a2zautomasters862 okay sorry for asking a lot of questions but on ur video I may have missed it. Does it show how to line it up after taking the tensioner off and putting the new water pump in?
I haven't changed my water pump (work fine) and i got 150,000 miles on it are there any info about when you supposed to change your water pump or do you just wait until it start to overheat to know that you need change it because I don't want to take it on the long drive and then get stuck
Regular water pumps that run on a timing belt and recommend to be changed every 60-70K miles, but since that pump runs on a chain it should last a bit longer. But since you’re @ 150k mark, I would really recommend you change that ASAP. Thank you for watching.
@@a2zautomasters862 sigh 😕 😐 😑😑😑😑😒😒😒😒😒 I thought you may say that damn i really don't want to tackle this but I don't want a overheating episode but I have your video so I should be ok...... thanks
Lol. I actually got that question few times. Some ppl were having a little trouble getting the pump out with the amount of slack but it should come out.
After not being able to smoothly remove the timing chain tensioner I had to pry it out and scraped the inside part of the TC and removed some of the silicone that holds the TC to the engine can I just re add some silicone and be okay ? Also I gave the tensioner slack by turning the crank but since I had to remove the tensioner with pressure I heard a few snapping sounds from the timing guide/chain .. Did I just completely mess up the engine or am I still okay?
@@a2zautomasters862 is it because of the small amount of silicone i removed from the inside or because of the snapping sound I heard from the timing chain? I think the snapping sound I heard was just the timing guide and chain snapping into the space where the chain tensioner goes once you remove it. The guide and chain dont seem to be broken and seem to just have play because of the slack it has. Is there a way to tell without having to remove the TC if in fact it is messed up ? .. also thank you for responding so far.
@@ibg7700 my main concern is the chain jumping timing. If you know I didn’t, you should be ok. You can assemble everything back and spin the engine by hand for two full revolution. If at any point the engine locks up or wouldn’t move any more, don’t force it and you have to check timing.
@@a2zautomasters862 the only thing I have removed so far is the tensioner . I haven't touched the water pump side at all except for removing the cover. So what you are saying to do is put back the tensioner in its place and then turn the crankshaft two whole turns and see if it doesn't lock up ? If yes then do I turn the crank clockwise or counterclockwise once I install the tensioner back inside ?
@@ibg7700 you can do the water pump job first. Finish the job and then after you put it all back together don’t start the car. Turn it by hand. Clockwise
I’m having an issue with my 04 g35 coupe, I don’t see any leaks from the water pump area or anywhere for that matter, I flushed the radiator an found no sludge or trash in it, but the car is overheating and it has a brand new stat in it, I tried bleeding the air out using the valve near the heater core but no luck, the bottom hose stays cool an the coolant isn’t moving around at all, could this still be a water pump issue? Or should I bleed the car from that screw near the pump
Circulation issue is usually a water pump problem or a clog somewhere. I have seen cases where the water pump fins were completely rusted out and missing. I would change the water pump and bleed the system very well. Bleeders are to be used during fill up and not when the car is hot. Plz let me know. Thanks for watching
The position doesn’t really matter since the cams and crack are kinda locked to the chain. U wouldn’t mess the timing if you follow the video. Just go back to it and make sure you get familiar with how everything is don’t b4 you start the job. It’s easy trust me.
@@a2zautomasters862 This is my first car, and i already did thermostat change. Going to adventure into this because you are so good explaining, you gave me confidence. Other videos look like they going to kill the car hahaha
@@a2zautomasters862 Another question... Could this be the same leakage? My coolant is driping from the same spot, but instead of the engine, it slides on the tube that is right in front of the spot you point out!
@@RUSOBPK Thank you. I do appreciate your comment. Yes if it’s coming out of that hole in the block it’s definitely the water pump. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Do you guys wait the suggested amount of time for the silicone to set up and cure before adding fluids and driving it??? I just finished and I need to drive it now! lol
It’s usually tight. But if you try to turn the crank a little more and use something like a flat head screwdriver to hold the chain while moving the water pump.
As I was trying to take out the water pump with the 2 bolts, all they did was tighten the pump down, it didn’t move out at all. Any tips? I tried multiple sized bolts and nothing has worked
Ok sounds like you’re using small size bolts that will bolt into the block and not the pump it self. Try matching the bolt to the new pump outside first.
@@curtisdickson6277 you wouldn’t be able to brake the block with just that bolt. The bolt will snap before you can damage the block or it will strip the threads but won’t brake the block. You should be ok.
I have a 2008 g35 sedan and when I step on the gas it makes a whining noise and sometimes when I drive it the temperature rarely goes up but doesn’t pass a line.. do you know what it could be ?
You probably gonna have to do process of elimination. U should remove alternator and power steering pump belts to eliminate them from the whining noise first.
I have a 350z and when it’s idling it’s fine at operating temperature but when you start driving for like 10 min it starts to climb up in temp almost close to the h and the fans stay on I tried changing thermostat and bleeding the system but it could be water pump should I try changing that I’m at 145 k miles
That engine is very hard to bleed, air usually trapped in there. U should use a spill proof funnel or if u don’t have it, you can jack the front of the car and let it run until fan kicks in then turn the heater on and rev to 2k rpm for 3-4 min. That should get the air out. Since you have 145k I would just change the water pump just for good measure.
What if even using the bots to pull it out, the Water pump is not budging at all. Not even a wiggle. I've used pry bars and still can't get it to move a hair. Any suggestions or tips?
Make sure you’re using the right size bolts. Make sure the bolts screw into the new pump outside before you use them on the pump in the car. Most of the time that’s the issue.
@@cbobad480 wow. That almost unheard of. It’s a lot of pressure with those bolts. Did you make sure all three bolts are out and all the slack on the pump side.
@@a2zautomasters862 ok awesome thank you I'll be doing this to my brothers 03 350z soon kept hearing TDC needed to be aligned before starting the process
I wanted to know how long did it take you to do this job because I wanna do this at my house I have all the tools I need I just need to know how long it takes you knkw
If you follow the video, you should be good. You really have to mess up big time to change the timing. The chain is tight on the cams and crank so you should be ok.
My goodness you may have just saved me thousands of dollars and time . I was about to take it in the dealership . I am usually a DIY kind of guy, I was scared to attempt this from another video. Someone else had a video about changing the water pump but he did the most dangerous way possible by just removing the pump without any other work. Thank goodness I stumbled upon your video ! 5 star rating for your step by step video !
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 glad I can help. Thank you.
Best water pump replacement video on a g35 I’ve seen 💯
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. Thank you. I really appreciate your comment.
So today I took my iPad out to my g35, watched this video step by step and installed my water pump! Omg, I cannot explain the relief of completing this kind of repair and the satisfaction that comes with it. The shop told me it would be around $1100 and I’ve been waiting 3 weeks for them to take my car in to fix it. Thank you so much for making this video, you helped saved me over a grand and now I can drive my baby! 🔥🚗 Anyone else doing this job, make sure you order a new tensioner, you won’t be able to get it back in without that pin in there. Good luck! 👍
I’m so glad I can help. Comments like these and happy ppl is what made me started that channel. Thank you very much. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Is it even necessary to order a new tensioner if the pin is already intact, and not like this guys tensioner?
@@mikedeezel116no but most do it just to be safe
@@mikedeezel116don't compact it all the way if you're using the same. Don't want to squeeze all of the oil out of it
I just towed my car to 2 shops hoping they could do this for me and both of them said the water pump was a money dump due to the fact of the timing chain. This video made me super confident to do it myself following step by step and boom i was done in no time.
how long did it take u?
@@emoryrodriguez9560 if u stick to it and get it done. Don’t rush. But it’s fairly simple with this video just follow those steps and pay attention to your bolts. You’d be good.
Was about to trash my 06 G35X but after watching you I think I can save her, really can't afford to get it done by a shop , you are a true life saver sir, thanks 🙏
Comments like these are the reason I keep creating and posting these videos. I’m glad I can help. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment.
Usually don’t respond on TH-cam videos but LET ME TELL YOU… this is the best video I’ve seen. I just replaced my water pump on my 04 g35 coupe. I followed this video to the tee. Only took an hour and 30 minutes. Everything went smoothly. For a second I didn’t have enough slack in the chain to remove the water pump but I turned the crank a little more and was able pull it out. Also with the tensioner. I was able to reuse mine. It still had the clip attached. The hardest part was trying to hold it in place while installing back in the timing cover. I actually ended up breaking the metal piece off of a comb and using it to secure the clip in place. Worked out like a charm
Was scared to start the car so I waited about an hour then started it. Everything started right up and I proceeded to burp the air out of the system. Finally my car isn’t leaking and overheating anymore!
I’m glad to hear everything worked out. That’s the main reason and honestly created this channel to help ppl out and that’s priceless. Thank you for watching and sharing your feed back.
Got a good deal on an 05 G35 sedan last night and I couldn't pass it up even with the overheating issue going on. I've changed a dozen water pumps so I though it couldn't be that bad. Boy was I pissed when I got the new pump back home and couldn't even FIND the old pump...changed the thermostat just for the hell of it. No luck. Doing the pump tomorrow with the help of this video! Thank A2Z!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻Good luck with the job tomorrow. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for watching.
Did you do it?
This by far is the best content available for the g35. Great work my friend 🫡 from another mechanic. I love just seeing other people properly do things right
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment and feed back.
Thanks so much best step by step for water pump replacement.Saved me a ton of money doing it myself.
You’re welcome. Glad I can help. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment
Best video I have seen. Did not talk to much and he showed what to do.
Thank you. I really appreciate your comment.
Super good video. I love the way you showed how you did everything and the way you explained it was awesome. I subscribed to your channel. Keep wrenchin
victor centeno Thank you sir! I appreciate it.
Geniusly done ✅ not too many parts were taken apart. Thanks 🙏🏼 much !
Thank you for watching I appreciate your comment
Great video. I'm gonna have to change the water pump on my nephew's G35 this video was very informative. Thanks
2016 Ninja 300 Project thank you. I do appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you so much i just started to learn to work on my car and no other video show the two bolt trick on releasing the water pump or loosening tension they made it look like you just reached in and BOOM. All day i spent watching and reading other material and yours made the job easy and quick. Wow thank you thank you thank..muchos besos
That’s the main reason I started this channel, I wanted to make easy to follow videos for cars enthusiast to get the job done them selfs even if they don’t have a good mechanical back ground. Thank you for watching and thank you very much for the kind words. Keep up the good work brother.
I just got one of these in my shop and I haven’t done one yet but I feel confident doing the job now! Thank you bro🙏🏼 video was awesome!!
Good luck bro! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Got one tomorrow. First time for me as well
@@Usmanthemecano job went so smooth!! I knew what to expect after I watched this video!!
@@1bigsali451 did you replace the tensioner? What was the most challenging bit?
@@Usmanthemecano yes I did replace the tensioner, honestly for me it was just making sure I didn’t drop anything inside the timing cover
Great video and thank you for sharing. Those two dislikes must be people who would glob silicone on everything!
KII thank you so much. I really appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
The most comprehensive video i have seen thus far. Truly a god send!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. God bless.
Great video! I'm about to do this on my 03 350z,wasnt looking forward to it until I saw this video..you made it look easy! Thanks
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. Plz let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the response.quick question.so my tensioner is not broken off like the one in the video! Is there anything different I do..or just unbolt it and remove it just like you did then rotate the crank counterclockwise to relieve tension on water pump
@@NitrousDe u can do that then when you get the tensioner outside you will have to press it and lock it b4 you install it again
Has anybody still had high temperatures after changing the water pump? My car is no longer overheating but it's still running hotter than I would like. I changed the thermostat prior to changing the water pump and tensioner. My last guess is the radiator. I'm about to change that out tonight. Anybody got any other thoughts? Thanks!
This is an awesome video. It made the replacement of the water pump VERY EASY. Thanks, A2Z
Before you change the radiator make sure the system has no air trapped in there. Those engines are known to trap air if not bleed right. Use a spill proof funnel and rev engine @ 2000 Rpm until fans kick on and make sure all air is out of the system. Make sure the heat is also on to the lowest setting. Let me know if that works. Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment.
@@a2zautomasters862 thanks for the tip. I need to raise the front end too, right?
@@THEOGCRB true.
Best water pump replacement video.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
What size the bolts I need as puller to remove the water pump? my G35 with 150K, water pump going strong but will change out soon to be safe, Thanks great video.
M8-1.25x50mm I found the bolt size on a manual online just tried it rn and I thought about you asking the bolt size but it's been a year since you asked so yea
Man nice job my g35 was also heating and this video helped me so much I was even thinking of selling it but thanks man😊
I’m glad I can help. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I truly appreciate you spending all that time making a video to help other people out. I have an 04 G35 with 53k miles on it... last summer I changed out hoses and t-stat housing, etc. I was wondering what was involved in that WP r&r... Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching and I really appreciate your comment. If you had already changed hoses and thermostat there’s no need to change anything else with the pump. Just a quick oil change when u’re done.
@@a2zautomasters862 Any idea how many miles a factory water pump will last on my G35? It's not leaking ...just wondering when I can expect to have to change it out... THANKS... Kenny in Vegas
@@KennyInVegas all water pump that runs on a timing belt are recommended to be changed with the belt @ about 60-70K miles. Since that pump runs on a chain you could probably wait to about 80-100k if it’s not causing any problems or leak
Great video but Jesus did Nissan design the water pump insanely dumb on this motor
think this is bad you don't even want to hear about the 3.5L ford made🤦🏼
Always watch it again right when I get another just for a refresher!! 🙌🏽💯
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
do i need to replace the timing chain tensioner if im taking it off? or is it really hard to take it off and put it back on? what do you think?
good question!!
You don’t have to replace the tensioner if it comes out complete and nothing missing of it like the one in the video. You should be able to reuse it.
What size bolts do you need as a puller. The bolt size for the new pump are different (8mm) from the ones that came out the original (6mm) waterpump. What do i do?
M8-1.25x50mm
Great video, I do have a question though, that tensioner moved out a lot. Does that mean that the chain is about done?
Good content, but what about the water pump bleeder screw? My Nissan Skyline 250 GT VQ25 is leaking coolant frorm that bleeder screw but no overheating and weird noises from the water pump..any sugestion.
If your water pump is marking noise, it’s no good should be changed. You can use a bit PTFE thread seal on The bleeder screw
Thanks for this video you don’t recommend put rtv on the water pump?
I’m trying to install water pump and I don’t have enough chain slack to slip over the pump.
Is there a way to get a little bit more slack? Thank you.
I sure could use your help i have a 2003 I Infiniti G35 sedan i need to change the water pump also knock sensor and bearings all four and fuel pump
Thank you for watching. We’re located in Garden City NY. Long Island. 516.328.7788. That’s the shop # give me a call M-F 8-6 and Saturday 8-4.
Great video your a natural at teaching!!!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. Thank you for watching. I really appreciate your comment.
I like that video good job so that changes for the water pump only right
Yes it’s. Just the pump. Thank you for watching and do appreciate your comment
Some people say you must put number one piston at top dead center before doing this job. Did you do that at all? If not, you did an amazing job
You don’t need to to do TDC. Thank you for watching.
@@a2zautomasters862 you 1000% sure? im paranoid ! i love my car !
@@user-2Hteyasizyc yea absolutely. I did so many of them.
Do you have to reset the timing after losing the timing chain?
Good video, but do we have to set the crankshaft to TDC?
Anyway TO GUARANTEE the timing doesnt jump a tooth or 3? im so neurotic im horrified to start it up. Would marking the chain to the water pump old and new not line up the same because of the slack? I would imagine it lines up if chain didnt jump time. please let me know.
Timing won’t change. The chain doesn’t have to line up the same way to the water pump. Your main marks are the cams and the crack shaft and those don’t change.
@@a2zautomasters862 the manual says to oil the new tensioner that it has a hole to put oil. Why doesnt anyone show this ? And ..About the timing. Pulling the tensioner out it cannot jump timing ? What if the crank is turned too far ? I wanna do what you did both the pump and tensioner. I'm just new to this car I just got it and dont wanna ruin the engine. Im doing a ton of stuff previous owner didnt.
@@user-2Hteyasizyc you can oil the new tensioner out or when you finish the job just turn the engine couple times by hand to prime it with oil. Doesn’t matter. The chain is usually rapped around cams and crank tight the timing cover has very small amount of clearance between the chain and the cover that doesn’t allow the chain to jump.
Great video!! I followed all these steps but my timing chain guide won’t fall all the way down to the left even after removing the tensioner… it won’t give me enough slack to remove water pump, should i just remove the entire timing cover??
No you don’t have to move the timing cover. I’ve seen few cases where that happened but just turn engine back counter clock wise and then back clock wise it should give you enough slack. You can use a flat head screwdriver between the water pump and the chain to gain some leverage. Plz let me know how it goes. Thank you for watching.
@@a2zautomasters862 thanks for the reply, I have been messing with it for a couple days going back and forth. It just seems not enough slack is there for the water pump to clear. I’ve attempted many different ways with no luck, the guide just doesn’t let it have enough slack.
@@pacmandc2 you’re welcome. before you take the timing cover off. Install the tensioner back and spin the engine couple times by hand then retry. Good luck. Let me know.
@@a2zautomasters862 I will try that after work today, I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again!
@@a2zautomasters862 failed again, put tensioner back on and turned it a couple times like you said. The guide stays at the same spot not allowing enough clearance.
HI, @ 1:13, where can I find the rubber cap at the end of the metal fitting?
Did the screws like you said and now ones broke off in my block, THANKS SO MUCH DUDE
Can’t break off in the block bc it doesn’t screw in the block. Apparently you didn’t watch the video and pay attention and used wrong size screws. YOU’RE WELCOME.
56k ppl watch that video and not even one said that. Don’t you think you’re the problem?
@@a2zautomasters862 nope correct size same thread and all
@@a2zautomasters862 literally won’t budge an inch
@@MovieTrailers-sm8jb same thread of what? What did you match it to?
So me loosening the timing chain and tightening it isn’t messing with the timing right?
Dropped drain plug for the water pump into the area where it goes back. Any clues how to get it out. Or replacement? Tried to magnet it out but its a tricky place to get to
Magnet wouldn’t work bc it brass. Try something like a stick with something sticky at the end. Glue or double-sided tape.
Thank you. Took 5 hours but I got it done
You’re welcome. Glad all worked out. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment and feed back
What type of bolt did you use to take the pump out
Wish you were in Chattanooga, TN to take care of my 2005 G35!
If my tensioner extends all the way when I pull it out, do I compress it and put Allen key in the hole to lock it in place to reinstall?
Oem bolts that come out of the waterpump are 6mm thread. the waterpump i have has 8mm threads. I cant seem to pull the pump with the longer 6mm bolts. It gets really tight to move the rachet but the pump will not budge. NEED HELP! Is there something im missing with the threads?
There’re two sizes bolts. One small that threads into the block to tighten the pump down and one a little bigger that tighten into the pump and not the engine block to push the pump out. The larger one should be a little bit harder because it forces the pump out.
so you done have to move the crank back or does that mess up timing?
Do you put engine oil or antifreeze on the o rings when inserting the new waterpump.?
A mix of both actually, but just oil should be ok.
@@a2zautomasters862 i put just antifreeze and it was hard. I had to convince it with a rubber mallet. I hope that it is ok
@@a2zautomasters862 do i need to remove the waterpump and add oil as well or is that ok?
@@curtisdickson6277 No. you should be ok.
@@a2zautomasters862 you are the man. Thank you so so much. I have learned alot with this job thanks to you. Im not gay but i would kiss you. You have saved me so much money and worry. You are the mechanic goat!
Hey Im following this video but cant get enough slack in the timing chain to install new water pump. Old one came out but had to do a lot of prying
It’s a tight fit but should fit. Make sure you move all the slack to the pump side.
So when take the tensioner cover off I gotta push that black piece up and put a pin in there to lock it to be able to take off the tensioner or would it come off without putting a locking pin? TIA!
I think you explained it but I just wanted to make sure lol
@@steeviegee5073 either way will work it’s just easier if you have a pin in there.
Did you get to broken part from the original tensioner out of the engine?
Yes actually. Found it when we did the oil change. Thank you for watching.
What kind of silicone are using for the cover?
You can use any band RTV gasket maker. The one I used was Permatex.
What did you do to clean off the old silicone?
Did you make sure you set TDC before removing tensioner and creating slack? I have low heat from heater at idle and some chocolate milk color under my oil cap, but not much and internals and dipstick look clean. At first I thought definitely head gasket, but now I’m thinking could be water pump. I will check if it is leaking externally like where you said by AC. Can any coolant enter oil with bad water pump or would it all leak externally through weep hole?
you don’t have to set TDC. It wouldn’t change timing if you do it exactly the way I did it. Milkshake or chocolate milk under oil cap could be any water/ coolant contamination with the oil. Water pump has two O rings type seal if the one that separate the oil and coolant is bad, it could definitely mix oil and coolant. Also for low heat at idle you should check your heater core. It’s a sign of poor circulation. Let me know if you run into any issue. Thanks for watching
@@a2zautomasters862 Oh ok thank you. I saw another video that said you have to set TDC. Glad thats not the case. Definitely seems like it could be my water pump after hearing symptoms. I have an 03 G35 sedan and I could definitely see moisture down by the AC side under the car and on top of my sub frame brace. I’m only getting a tiny bit of milk under the oil cap. I did an oil change just to be safe until I can do my pump, but yeah these cars are notorious for bubbles or air pockets in the cooling system which probably explains low heat from heater at idle and why I couldn’t bleed it out all the way. Thanks again great video.👌🏻👍🏻🙏🏼
KeTO BeasT84 anytime.
@@a2zautomasters862 hello nice video I have a 2004 g35 coupe I changed radiator and thermostat hoses coolant radiator cap and and bleed it out...but when I driving it as it warms up I run for 10 to 15 mins fine then it's starts to heat up slowly then I start accelerate it tempterture goes back to normal could it be my water pump thsnk you
Luis Gonzalez hey! And thank you for watching my video. So basically your car over heats when it’s @ low RPM and when you accelerate the temp goes back down. 1. Let the car run and watch the radiator fan, make sure it turns on before the car starts to over heat. 2. When the car starts to over heat does the temp goes down by simply revving the engine or you have to accelerate while driving for the temp to go back down?
Do you need to correct anything with time timing or did it not move for you to need to do anything with it?
You don’t have to do anything with the timing. You don’t have to set TDC. If you follow the video you should be perfectly fine. Thank you for watching I do appreciate your comment and question.
@@a2zautomasters862 I replaced the thermostat and Water pump but it's still overheating, I don't know what to do!
@@SLAWTERX those engines are known to trap air inside make sure you bleed the coolant system very well. You probably have air in the system
Habibi no need to put it on tdc before removing the tensioner?
I was about to ask the same thing. I've heard putting it at tdc is required. I guess not
No need to set TDC.
How simple would it be to swap out the old chain for a new one ?
@@Cometxx6 not simple at all
That was bad ass. You got a new sub here!
I appreciate you. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻
I just bought a g35 and I’m having the same problem with mine. Coolant leaking from the same place, overheating and it’s making sorta a grinding noise when I start it. The belts are in terrible condition there are huge chunks missing on them all through out the whole belt I’ve never seen belts this bad. Could it possibly just be the belts or do you think I should still replace the water pump?
Can you do a video on rough idle, i can't seem to find the problem after i have cleaned throttle. I think it might be that my lil door is ajar like ever so slightly and i mean slightly.
Most likely you have to do a throttle body relearn. Did check engine light come on? Did you get a code for RPM exceeded or lower than limit?
I’ve seen videos about the car needing to be in top dead center how do i go about this ?
No you don’t have to, you’re not removing the chain.
What's the proper name for the tensioner that you replaced? The timing chain tensioner?
Yes timing chain tensioner.
@@a2zautomasters862 would regular auto parts stores be able to order that or is it a dealer item?
@@THEOGCRB it’s available in aftermarket so a regular part should be able to get.
@@THEOGCRB it’s the primary tensioner and a company called Cloyes gear & product makes it part # CT9-5595
When did you put back the water pump bleeder screw?
U can put it back right after you drain the coolant or after the old pump is out.
The part with the bolts used as a puller needs more explaning. The three bolts you pull out are NOT the bolts you need to pull the waterpump. You need an 8mm thread which is bigger than the 6mm that came from the water pump. IF YOU USE A 6MM THREAD TO PULL THE WATERPUMP YOU WILL BREAK THE BOLT OR STRIP THE THREADS. Dont do what i did it will cost you a headache.
The bolt size was m8-1.25x50mm
would the process be the same for an 07-08 350z? HR motor
I have one question about the work, does the engine have to be on top dead center?
No it doesn’t. Timing doesn’t change if you follow the video carefully.
Hello, I took out the water pump and the chain gained all the tension back. Why did that happened and can I just loosen the crankshaft pulley again or will it mess the timing up?
Hey, I’m really not sure what happened there. If there was tension on the chain on the pump side the pump wouldn’t come out. The only thing I can think of is the cams rolled and pulled the chain back. Q1 did you move all the slack to the pump side and remove the tensioner out before you remove the pump? Q2 Was the pump easy to come out or was it stock on the chain?
i didnt see a way to keep the timing chain alligned with the water pump in the video, is there something im missing? for example when i take the tensioner out and the water pump... how do i know it is aligned perfectly?
The chain has to only line up with the camshaft and crankshaft anything in between doesn’t matter.
@@a2zautomasters862 okay sorry for asking a lot of questions but on ur video I may have missed it. Does it show how to line it up after taking the tensioner off and putting the new water pump in?
@@Hallisi no worries. Yes it does. All you have to do is move the slack to the pump side to remove it then back to the tensioner side for installation
@@a2zautomasters862 thank you okay. Should be doing it soon I’ll give yiu an update as well. Thank you for this video
@@Hallisi yes plz. Good luck. 👍🏻👍🏻
I haven't changed my water pump (work fine) and i got 150,000 miles on it are there any info about when you supposed to change your water pump or do you just wait until it start to overheat to know that you need change it because I don't want to take it on the long drive and then get stuck
Regular water pumps that run on a timing belt and recommend to be changed every 60-70K miles, but since that pump runs on a chain it should last a bit longer. But since you’re @ 150k mark, I would really recommend you change that ASAP. Thank you for watching.
@@a2zautomasters862 sigh 😕 😐 😑😑😑😑😒😒😒😒😒 I thought you may say that damn i really don't want to tackle this but I don't want a overheating episode but I have your video so I should be ok...... thanks
@@snider2588 let me know how it goes. I’ll be here if u have any questions
Did u slack the chain more before removing the pump or am I just lacking elbow grease lol
Lol. I actually got that question few times. Some ppl were having a little trouble getting the pump out with the amount of slack but it should come out.
💯
Bro so i tighten the crank so the tensioner part of the chain can be losen and both of the part of the chain got tighten idk what am i doing wrong
After not being able to smoothly remove the timing chain tensioner I had to pry it out and scraped the inside part of the TC and removed some of the silicone that holds the TC to the engine can I just re add some silicone and be okay ? Also I gave the tensioner slack by turning the crank but since I had to remove the tensioner with pressure I heard a few snapping sounds from the timing guide/chain .. Did I just completely mess up the engine or am I still okay?
You definitely not ok. You will have to remove the timing cover now and redo the timing job. Don’t start or crank this engine
@@a2zautomasters862 is it because of the small amount of silicone i removed from the inside or because of the snapping sound I heard from the timing chain? I think the snapping sound I heard was just the timing guide and chain snapping into the space where the chain tensioner goes once you remove it. The guide and chain dont seem to be broken and seem to just have play because of the slack it has. Is there a way to tell without having to remove the TC if in fact it is messed up ? .. also thank you for responding so far.
@@ibg7700 my main concern is the chain jumping timing. If you know I didn’t, you should be ok. You can assemble everything back and spin the engine by hand for two full revolution. If at any point the engine locks up or wouldn’t move any more, don’t force it and you have to check timing.
@@a2zautomasters862 the only thing I have removed so far is the tensioner . I haven't touched the water pump side at all except for removing the cover.
So what you are saying to do is put back the tensioner in its place and then turn the crankshaft two whole turns and see if it doesn't lock up ?
If yes then do I turn the crank clockwise or counterclockwise once I install the tensioner back inside ?
@@ibg7700 you can do the water pump job first. Finish the job and then after you put it all back together don’t start the car. Turn it by hand. Clockwise
Does the motor have to be at Top dead center to change the water pump??
No you don’t need TDC
@a2zautomasters862 thank you for your help much appreciated
@@StaticDavid you’re welcome. good luck. Let me know if you run into any issues
Is it fine if I buy a Hitachi water pump? Hitachi does a lot of oem parts just asking
You probably could. With big jobs like these I like to use high quality parts, you really don’t wanna do that job again
@@a2zautomasters862 thats true 🙌
You can crank the engine like that without it having to be tdc?
Yes sir you can. Just exactly how I did it in the video.
what is the name of that slim red power tool you used at 6:35
It’s 1/4 inch power ratchet by SnapOn
I’m having an issue with my 04 g35 coupe, I don’t see any leaks from the water pump area or anywhere for that matter, I flushed the radiator an found no sludge or trash in it, but the car is overheating and it has a brand new stat in it, I tried bleeding the air out using the valve near the heater core but no luck, the bottom hose stays cool an the coolant isn’t moving around at all, could this still be a water pump issue? Or should I bleed the car from that screw near the pump
Circulation issue is usually a water pump problem or a clog somewhere. I have seen cases where the water pump fins were completely rusted out and missing. I would change the water pump and bleed the system very well. Bleeders are to be used during fill up and not when the car is hot. Plz let me know. Thanks for watching
@@a2zautomasters862 What if the car overheats only when driving? I was thinking like you said a circulation issue?
@@Goodyboi yea sounds like a circulation issue. Let me know how it goes plz.
Does it matter where the crankshaft position is for when making the slack or can it be anywhere? Just seeing if I can mess the timing up
The position doesn’t really matter since the cams and crack are kinda locked to the chain. U wouldn’t mess the timing if you follow the video. Just go back to it and make sure you get familiar with how everything is don’t b4 you start the job. It’s easy trust me.
@@a2zautomasters862 I took my timing chain tensioner and there’s no slack there and I turned counter clockwise a little and no slack
@@a2zautomasters862 never mind I got it
@@gurleent9615 how did you get it that's where im struggling at idk if i position the chain to the water pump wrong i need help
would the procedure be the same for a 2009 G37?
What is the likelihood of the engine jumping time? I'm actually surprised it hasn't happened yet in this video.
If you follow the video the way I do it, you’re 100% ok.
@@a2zautomasters862 okay and thanks for the quick reply, I'll be doing this next weekend.
@@lordsparkle4007 you’re welcome. Good luck. 👍🏻
So i got a question... If my tenssioner still has the pin, what should i do instead of removing it? Or is removing it required?
You still have to remove it. You need that space.
@@a2zautomasters862 This is my first car, and i already did thermostat change. Going to adventure into this because you are so good explaining, you gave me confidence. Other videos look like they going to kill the car hahaha
@@a2zautomasters862 Another question... Could this be the same leakage? My coolant is driping from the same spot, but instead of the engine, it slides on the tube that is right in front of the spot you point out!
@@RUSOBPK Thank you. I do appreciate your comment. Yes if it’s coming out of that hole in the block it’s definitely the water pump. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Only thing you have to drain out is the coolant?
Yup. And you can do an oil change after the job is done just in case any coolant got in there.
@@a2zautomasters862 I appreciate You Boss. Good thing My oil is low anyways 💪🏾💯🤝🏾
Would a bad water pump also cause white smoke?
White smoke usually coolant getting burned so I don’t think a water pump will do that.
Do you guys wait the suggested amount of time for the silicone to set up and cure before adding fluids and driving it??? I just finished and I need to drive it now! lol
Lol yes sir! You got to wait before adding fluid and starting the car.
I'm having trouble getting slack in the timing chain to get the old pump out
It’s usually tight. But if you try to turn the crank a little more and use something like a flat head screwdriver to hold the chain while moving the water pump.
@@a2zautomasters862 it was late and I hadn't removed the tensioner yet...ugh...i got it. Thanks
Bro u are awesome… !!!💯🔥🔥Thank you🙏🏽
Glad I can help. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻
Really good work!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
As I was trying to take out the water pump with the 2 bolts, all they did was tighten the pump down, it didn’t move out at all. Any tips? I tried multiple sized bolts and nothing has worked
Ok sounds like you’re using small size bolts that will bolt into the block and not the pump it self. Try matching the bolt to the new pump outside first.
@@a2zautomasters862 ok i wish i new this i hope i did not put two holes in my block.
@@a2zautomasters862 how will you know if you went to far. I screwed it in really really tight.
@@curtisdickson6277 you wouldn’t be able to brake the block with just that bolt. The bolt will snap before you can damage the block or it will strip the threads but won’t brake the block. You should be ok.
@@a2zautomasters862 yesss!!! Thank you so much for replying. You are god send. I was loosing sleep over this. You have definitely earned a subscriber!
I have a 2008 g35 sedan and when I step on the gas it makes a whining noise and sometimes when I drive it the temperature rarely goes up but doesn’t pass a line.. do you know what it could be ?
You probably gonna have to do process of elimination. U should remove alternator and power steering pump belts to eliminate them from the whining noise first.
I have a 350z and when it’s idling it’s fine at operating temperature but when you start driving for like 10 min it starts to climb up in temp almost close to the h and the fans stay on I tried changing thermostat and bleeding the system but it could be water pump should I try changing that I’m at 145 k miles
That engine is very hard to bleed, air usually trapped in there. U should use a spill proof funnel or if u don’t have it, you can jack the front of the car and let it run until fan kicks in then turn the heater on and rev to 2k rpm for 3-4 min. That should get the air out. Since you have 145k I would just change the water pump just for good measure.
What if even using the bots to pull it out, the Water pump is not budging at all. Not even a wiggle. I've used pry bars and still can't get it to move a hair. Any suggestions or tips?
Make sure you’re using the right size bolts. Make sure the bolts screw into the new pump outside before you use them on the pump in the car. Most of the time that’s the issue.
Ya, 6m fit the new one. I'm pulling straight back, but the water pump itself doesn't move at all.
@@cbobad480 wow. That almost unheard of. It’s a lot of pressure with those bolts. Did you make sure all three bolts are out and all the slack on the pump side.
Yes, and yes.
@@cbobad480 that’s crazy.
What if the tensioner does have the locking mechanism
In this case just reuse it np
So this is separate chain from the motor
It’s the same chain.
How did you go about getting the engine TDC 😳
U don’t need to set TDC. Timing wouldn’t change.
@@a2zautomasters862 ok awesome thank you I'll be doing this to my brothers 03 350z soon kept hearing TDC needed to be aligned before starting the process
I heard you need tdc 1 to prevent chain from skippin a tooth. Im goin to be doing this job tommrow, any feedback appreciated.
@@Vaccutravel you don’t need to set TDC for this job. Trust me.
I did the tensioner and started pulling out water pump but lost slack and can't move it out
U probably didn’t turn the crankshaft enough. Try to turn it a little bit more and you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry the pump from the chain
Got it it has to be dead center!!!
did you have to drain the coolent if so why
Yes you should drain it first. You don’t want all the coolant to come out gushing when you take the pump out and also going and mixing with the oil
I wanted to know how long did it take you to do this job because I wanna do this at my house I have all the tools I need I just need to know how long it takes you knkw
Ovad the book says 10.3h for AWD and 6.4h for 2WD. I got it done for about 3-3.5h just had to wait until next day for new tensioner to arrive.
Can you mess up the timing if you do it wrong or not
If you follow the video, you should be good. You really have to mess up big time to change the timing. The chain is tight on the cams and crank so you should be ok.
Super Job!!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
So you don’t have to rotate the chain?
Just like how I did it in the video. That’s all.