Alex just wanted to tell you that you, your video, and you responding to so many question's here have helped a lot of us that are trying to set up our E-HERMS system's. And for all that I just wanted to say thanks my brother brewer. I put together my system in 09 to be gas fired, but am now modifying it to also brew E-HERMS, and your video here has helped me so much. I'm a keggle brewer as well. And you have really inspired me in so many direction's with my system.
I can't believe anyone would give this a thumbs down!? They are obviously jealous. You are one ambitious man to build such a system! Super impressive!!! Thanks for posting.
The thumbs down most likely come from people who are aware that this system was NOT designed by Alex (as he claims) but by Kal at The Electric Brewery.
GEEZUS!! Everyone is slamming this guy for not mentioning whoever was the original designer of this system. That is one serious bit of kit that's 100% badassery. I need to hurry outside and make sure my Chevy says "Designed by Ford" somewhere..
great build by the way... a few points of note that may help... (1) you may want to shorten the pick-up tube in the boil kettle so that you pick up from the very edge of the pot vs the center... where you have it now, the tube will get a ton of the gunk from the center of the bot via the whirl pool... (2) any whirl pools typically work best when they are submerged. Your Hot Water Tank has it coming back above the liquid level. The one in the boil kettle looks low enough but points down...whirl pooling typically work best when the flow is radially "flat" vs oriented up or down... (3) during your start of the mash, it went quickly when you added water but you should try under-letting (fill the tun via the outlet) which helps absorption and eliminated dough balls. Based on your set up, it's just a matter of moving the hose. It helps immensely especially on larger grain bills rather then stirring a ton of grain to get it mixed...
Nice job. A lot of up-front work but I expect it is paying dividends. I like your approach where all the necessities are taken care of and no overkill. Thanks for posting that
That's some impressive kit! Thank you for the tour :) - I went for quantity over quality (100L dual purpose liquor tank/boiler and 65L stainless insulated mash tun) as i'm on a budget and our household drinks a lot of beer. garden hoses and dodgy diy copper plumbing with single pump is how i roll :D - I just had the idea of using my immersion chiller as a heat exchanger for a HERMS setup. Hoping an STC-1000 can hope with heating and holding about 10 gallons. Thanks once again for the tour, it confirmed my idea will work :)
you may want to consider in the boil kettle to change the straight NPT x Compression Straight fitting for your outlet to a NPT x 90deg Compression Elbow so that you pull off closer to the edge of your pot. it looks like your pickup may be too close to the center that you may be picking up the gunk from the center of the whirlpool.
Nice setup. I love the polished kegs (they look fantastic) and the system is definitely well thought out with your own original adaptations from the Electric Brewery setup. The one item that you included that I feel Kal missed is the inclusion of an Emergency Stop push button. Kudos! My only criticism is of a technical nature: your temperature sensors are not thermocouples. I realize you probably know this and it just slipped out as part of your vernacular while recording your video. However, for those who don't know, thermocouples are sensors that monitor a change in voltage generated across two dissimilar metals along which a temperature gradient is present (i.e. the Seebeck effect). What is being used here is called an RTD which measures the change in resistance of a material as the material changes temperature (a property first discovered by Sir William Siemens).
Your build looks super! congratulations on making your work look like it was purchased! mine doesnt quite look so good. I like the layout of your controller panel too. excellent work!
He certainly did not design his electric brewery, but sweet, feathery Jesus! Look at that impressive paint and wallpaper job in the background. THAT is impressive!
Beautiful system, great video! I'm a fellow 240v laundry room brewer.Have you noticed your wife only wants to do laundry when you brew, or am I the only one who has that problem?
Fantastic Brewery!! Great work, I hope to build one similar soon, got my kegs in the basement ready to go. Would love to see the schematic for your system if you made one. Thanks very much for sharing your work!
Nice setup man! I'm in the process of putting together something similar and took a cue from your build with the JQX-12F relays. I'm following Kal's instructions for the majority of the build, so if you wouldn't mind explaining how you wired up the mechanical relays I'd be incredibly appreciative!
Awesome build! It's just one thing I don't understand. You say that the HLT and mash PIDs can't do PWM, yet around 15:25 the heater is clearly turning on and off to control the heat very neatly (I suppose a kind of very low frequency PWM). Wouldn't it be possible to just set the boiling PID to 100C/220F and let it do its thing, or am I missing something?
good job am dwelling on building electric rig myself. Been trying to find a way to have the element attack to a tri clover fitting-like a racking arm so one can pull to clean and attach a flat cap for a cip set up,etc. Wish i had the noodle power for the electric box you built--great job
greg grider www.brewandgrow.com/brew/1-5-tri-clover-x-1-nps-element-adapter.html If you're still looking, a coworker showed this to me. I think it is what you're looking for.
I am doing the same with triclover fittings so that the pots can be removed from the bench for cleaning. Found them on eBay for $17 for a set of 2 female ferrule, gasket and clamp.
Graeck The only reason I went HERMS was to be able to add ice to the end of the process to cool the wort and have some overlap in other processes like raising temp to strike. Also, I had the room to make an HLT which is basically a large RIMS tube.
Estou nos estágios iniciais da construção do meu sistema HERMS e ao invés de estar estudando para nossa prova estou fuçando videos aqui, daí acho seu comentário de 1 ano atrás! Amanhã falamos sobre este assunto.
Great work! Please help me comprehend how it functions. What does the mashtun pid control? I would make it control the pump so than when my mash temp goes down the mashtun pid turns on the pump and makes the wort recirculate till the temp rises to where its set. I cant understand the way you have it setup... Sorry for my ignorance :)
pretty impressive ..good job ! I like the fact you showed your whirlpooling and all...question...who confident are you on welds being sanitary...i have a 3 barrel unit that I want to convert..but I dont want to fuck it up...was it hard to do right !?
This is a great set up. My only concern is that you might get a lot of heat inside the control box. Maybe cut a hole in the side of the box and move the fan to help suck cool air in.
Nice overview video. Very pretty system (how long did you have to polish those kegs???? LoL). Great high level function of your setup and quick views of how you run your brews.
Hi Alex, I'm building 5500w elements now for the HLT and the BK. I like the LED bling on the element boxes. Can you provide info on what you used and how you wired this? Thanks!
Just a minor point which could be a source of confusion.. A couple of times you refer to your temperature sensing elements as 'PT100 thermocouples' There is no such thing.!!. PT 100's are RTD's (resistive temperature devices) Thermocouples generate voltage (at the junction of dissimilar metals) - A completely different principle. If someone didn't understand the distinction and bought a PT100 rtd and tried to connect it to a thermocouple PID controller, they would end up confused and ultimately pissed off once they discovered it was never going to work. 2c
First off...Nice Setup. At what step do you begin to heat your sparge water and how do you do so with this system. Are you cutting off the re-circulation to the mash tun during the last 10 minutes or so, (switching back to the HLT PID) allowing you to heat your sparge water without affecting the mash temp? Or are you transferring the wort to the BK first, then heating the sparge water in the HLT? IF you do the latter, does it take much time for the temp to ramp up in the HLT? Thanks
I leave the system recirculating, switch to the HLT PID and change the temp, once the HLT is at the correct temp to sparge I stop the pumps and switch all the lines and begin spargeing. The system can ramp a little faster than a degree per second with around 5-6 gallons of water in it using a single 4500w ULWD element.
cool set up.I recently built a E-HERMS system myself. But mine is BCS instead of PID like yours. Your Build looks great. Its just a copy of Kal's system right? the control box looks identical. I have the same set up with the st-1000 but I using a heating pad. But your idea seems to be better, I'm gonna steal it :). I dont think I have ever seen someone run the wort back though the HLT like that. Great Idea. I use a chill plate that I'm happy with. But your idea seems great. Cool vid. Subbed!!!
Hey man, hope you get this message..the wiring diagram has helped me no end thank you...I was just worried about having the 2 negatives on the HLT and Mash PID (the SSR outputs) commoned up...no issue with backfeeding from one to another when one switches on? Or are the negative terminals always negative and it just switches the positive on when it needs to? Thanks
No, there is no back feeding, that's why the element power switch has 2 contractor blocks to keep the 2 feeds separate, they then go to the 2 separate contractor blocks on the PID select switch.
Great job Alex. Can you tell me how you got the mirror finish? I used Gatot grit fine pads and a polish wheel with the polish block. I'm close. But not as good as yours.
First of all, excellent system you've put together. I am also on the path to having a HERM system. I'm curious how long it takes to cool your wort using your HLT? I had the idea I would be building a counter flow wort chiller as most do, until I saw this video. Cheers
I'm diggin' the polished kettles and the soldered ports!! Couple of questions: Is that the same size control box that Kal used? 16" X 16" What was the reason for the PID switch?
I have a 23 litre brewing barrel with an electric blanket wrapped around it in my hallway making an alcoholic ginger beer at the moment. I might upgrade to one like yours oneday if I win lotto.
How much time do you save with this over a more traditional system? time = money. What was your time to build it? Would you consider selling some at 10-20% the cost of you to build?
We have the same vessels (15.5 gal ) kegs, and I would like to know how you got yours so shiny, we have tried everything and can't get them to look that good, what's your secret?.
The selector switch selects which PID controls the hot side of the SSR relay for the HLT. Take a look at this diagram: www.theelectricbrewery.com/images/PIDs.jpg In my setup pin 8 from both controllers would go directly to the negative side of the HLT SSR. Pin 7 from the HLT and Mash PID controllers would go to the switch, the switch would send either the HLT or the Mash signal to the positive side of the SSR.
Alex, Dude this is an awesome setup !! Well done. I have a question as I'm a little confused with the switching of the PID's from HLT to MASH. When switching this over to MASH to achieve 152 degrees, is the MASH PID controlling the element at this point? If so can you please explain or send me the schematics on how this switch is cancelling the HLT and still controlling the system. The link you show in another post does not show the "switch" option in the wiring diagram. I really appreciate any help on this. Cheers
Brian G The PID currently controlling the system at any point is the one with the yellow light under it. I just added the wiring diagram to the video description.
I have two mypin pid controllers and cannot get them to fire the relay, do you have a diagram as to the settings. Ive tried everything and will be ordering an aubrin soon if I cant get these to work right.
Alex just wanted to tell you that you, your video, and you responding to so many question's here have helped a lot of us that are trying to set up our E-HERMS system's. And for all that I just wanted to say thanks my brother brewer. I put together my system in 09 to be gas fired, but am now modifying it to also brew E-HERMS, and your video here has helped me so much. I'm a keggle brewer as well. And you have really inspired me in so many direction's with my system.
I can't believe anyone would give this a thumbs down!? They are obviously jealous. You are one ambitious man to build such a system! Super impressive!!! Thanks for posting.
The thumbs down most likely come from people who are aware that this system was NOT designed by Alex (as he claims) but by Kal at The Electric Brewery.
You're super duper crazy, and I am jealous. Amazing. Happy Brewing!
What an incredible system! It's simply amazing what homebrewers are doing these days...
dude you are a stud, i just watched this whole thing and was excited the whole time
GEEZUS!! Everyone is slamming this guy for not mentioning whoever was the original designer of this system.
That is one serious bit of kit that's 100% badassery. I need to hurry outside and make sure my Chevy says "Designed by Ford" somewhere..
That is one impressive Herms system you have no matter what some may say. I for one am very impressed and jealous. Cheers
great build by the way... a few points of note that may help... (1) you may want to shorten the pick-up tube in the boil kettle so that you pick up from the very edge of the pot vs the center... where you have it now, the tube will get a ton of the gunk from the center of the bot via the whirl pool... (2) any whirl pools typically work best when they are submerged. Your Hot Water Tank has it coming back above the liquid level. The one in the boil kettle looks low enough but points down...whirl pooling typically work best when the flow is radially "flat" vs oriented up or down... (3) during your start of the mash, it went quickly when you added water but you should try under-letting (fill the tun via the outlet) which helps absorption and eliminated dough balls. Based on your set up, it's just a matter of moving the hose. It helps immensely especially on larger grain bills rather then stirring a ton of grain to get it mixed...
Nice job. A lot of up-front work but I expect it is paying dividends. I like your approach where all the necessities are taken care of and no overkill. Thanks for posting that
This is by far the best set up and video I have seen yet. Great job, and thanks!
Best Setup Ive seen yet!!! Really like it nice work!!! The finish on the kegs are sick!!
That's some impressive kit! Thank you for the tour :) - I went for quantity over quality (100L dual purpose liquor tank/boiler and 65L stainless insulated mash tun) as i'm on a budget and our household drinks a lot of beer. garden hoses and dodgy diy copper plumbing with single pump is how i roll :D - I just had the idea of using my immersion chiller as a heat exchanger for a HERMS setup. Hoping an STC-1000 can hope with heating and holding about 10 gallons.
Thanks once again for the tour, it confirmed my idea will work :)
you may want to consider in the boil kettle to change the straight NPT x Compression Straight fitting for your outlet to a NPT x 90deg Compression Elbow so that you pull off closer to the edge of your pot. it looks like your pickup may be too close to the center that you may be picking up the gunk from the center of the whirlpool.
Wow that is some incredible worksmanship! Awesome job!
this setup is so cool! I don't understand how it doesn't have more views. I'd love to have this setup already, but I just started with homebrewing :)
I know I’m late to the party.. but thank you for producing this. It was very informative
19:30...aeration holes are clever
dude did you made that control panel by yourself? Sick!!! congratulations.
awesome video great workmanship
im sure you will have plenty of mates asking for help with their build
this is a very nice setup you should be proud
Alex you are a brewing GOD! Great job! very well done
Nice setup. I love the polished kegs (they look fantastic) and the system is definitely well thought out with your own original adaptations from the Electric Brewery setup. The one item that you included that I feel Kal missed is the inclusion of an Emergency Stop push button. Kudos!
My only criticism is of a technical nature: your temperature sensors are not thermocouples. I realize you probably know this and it just slipped out as part of your vernacular while recording your video. However, for those who don't know, thermocouples are sensors that monitor a change in voltage generated across two dissimilar metals along which a temperature gradient is present (i.e. the Seebeck effect). What is being used here is called an RTD which measures the change in resistance of a material as the material changes temperature (a property first discovered by Sir William Siemens).
Sweet setup Will! That was fun to watch. Happy brewing!
Incredible system... Well done... Great inspiration for myself....favourited for future reference
Great Video. I've been looking at a ton of RIMS videos lately, and yours was one of the best. Great ideas on the fermentation chamber as well.
Looks great man. Excellent job with your setup. Now you just need to motorize that mill!
Excellent video! Nice set up too!
Your build looks super! congratulations on making your work look like it was purchased! mine doesnt quite look so good. I like the layout of your controller panel too. excellent work!
Wow! You be wired tight. Good job with your system and your video.
He certainly did not design his electric brewery, but sweet, feathery Jesus! Look at that impressive paint and wallpaper job in the background. THAT is impressive!
Beautiful system, great video! I'm a fellow 240v laundry room brewer.Have you noticed your wife only wants to do laundry when you brew, or am I the only one who has that problem?
Engineers might know the difference between a Thermocouple and a Pt100 RTD ;)
Very nice setup!
Fantastic Brewery!! Great work, I hope to build one similar soon, got my kegs in the basement ready to go. Would love to see the schematic for your system if you made one. Thanks very much for sharing your work!
Fred Snyder Just added it to the video description.
Thanks!
If you use a shorter thermocouple, you can mount it on the side of the tee and avoid the probe sticking out
I found this very informative. Thank you for sharing your work.
Awesome build. Seriously impressed.
Good to see you are using kegs from Yuengling. I bet they didn't need them anymore.
At least he'll put better ingredients in it than Yuengling ever could.
Stolen kegs
Wow! I think you have a great system believe I wish I had a similar setup. Good job with the video too. Good explanations and follow through. Thanks!!
Nice setup man! I'm in the process of putting together something similar and took a cue from your build with the JQX-12F relays. I'm following Kal's instructions for the majority of the build, so if you wouldn't mind explaining how you wired up the mechanical relays I'd be incredibly appreciative!
Awesome build!
It's just one thing I don't understand. You say that the HLT and mash PIDs can't do PWM, yet around 15:25 the heater is clearly turning on and off to control the heat very neatly (I suppose a kind of very low frequency PWM). Wouldn't it be possible to just set the boiling PID to 100C/220F and let it do its thing, or am I missing something?
Hey man, nice set up!!! I'm thinking of building something similar with a few modifications to tailor it to my personal taste.
Absolutely amazing setup!
Good work mate.
This is amazing!
good job am dwelling on building electric rig myself. Been trying to find a way to have the element attack to a tri clover fitting-like a racking arm so one can pull to clean and attach a flat cap for a cip set up,etc. Wish i had the noodle power for the electric box you built--great job
greg grider www.brewandgrow.com/brew/1-5-tri-clover-x-1-nps-element-adapter.html If you're still looking, a coworker showed this to me. I think it is what you're looking for.
I am doing the same with triclover fittings so that the pots can be removed from the bench for cleaning. Found them on eBay for $17 for a set of 2 female ferrule, gasket and clamp.
Excellent system. Any chance of a wiring schematic for the control box?
Amazing detail! Thanks for posting this!
Man, your system is amazing. I was planning use RIMS but HERMS looks better.
You can adjust mash temps much quicker using RIMS. That being said, it's all preference. I prefer RIMS (for easier control), but some like HERMS.
Graeck The only reason I went HERMS was to be able to add ice to the end of the process to cool the wort and have some overlap in other processes like raising temp to strike. Also, I had the room to make an HLT which is basically a large RIMS tube.
Estou nos estágios iniciais da construção do meu sistema HERMS e ao invés de estar estudando para nossa prova estou fuçando videos aqui, daí acho seu comentário de 1 ano atrás! Amanhã falamos sobre este assunto.
+Manoel Machado kkkkkk,Este equipamento ficou muito legal e bem profissional, pretendo montar um parecido.
Great work! Please help me comprehend how it functions. What does the mashtun pid control? I would make it control the pump so than when my mash temp goes down the mashtun pid turns on the pump and makes the wort recirculate till the temp rises to where its set. I cant understand the way you have it setup... Sorry for my ignorance :)
well done, nice build
pretty impressive ..good job ! I like the fact you showed your whirlpooling and all...question...who confident are you on welds being sanitary...i have a 3 barrel unit that I want to convert..but I dont want to fuck it up...was it hard to do right !?
Wow nice work!
This is a great set up. My only concern is that you might get a lot of heat inside the control box. Maybe cut a hole in the side of the box and move the fan to help suck cool air in.
Amazing, thanks for sharing!
Nice overview video. Very pretty system (how long did you have to polish those kegs???? LoL). Great high level function of your setup and quick views of how you run your brews.
@azwillnj What method/tools/polishers did you use to polish those kegs? They look really nice.
Very Very Cool System man, Cheers 🍺 🍻 🍺
Very nice plus I also like that you reuse the recirculation coil for cooling. How do u clean the lines, coil and pump? pbw?
danielgeraldleland1 Yes, just pump some PBW through for a little bit each time.
Where did you get the name plates for the control panel made? They look nice.
Hi Alex, I'm building 5500w elements now for the HLT and the BK. I like the LED bling on the element boxes. Can you provide info on what you used and how you wired this? Thanks!
Very cool!
Hi, How do you controll the scorching on boiling and thermal inertia on mashing? thanks
AWESOME, Great job
Just a minor point which could be a source of confusion.. A couple of times you refer to your temperature sensing elements as 'PT100 thermocouples' There is no such thing.!!. PT 100's are RTD's (resistive temperature devices) Thermocouples generate voltage (at the junction of dissimilar metals) - A completely different principle. If someone didn't understand the distinction and bought a PT100 rtd and tried to connect it to a thermocouple PID controller, they would end up confused and ultimately pissed off once they discovered it was never going to work.
2c
good work dude
First off...Nice Setup. At what step do you begin to heat your sparge water and how do you do so with this system. Are you cutting off the re-circulation to the mash tun during the last 10 minutes or so, (switching back to the HLT PID) allowing you to heat your sparge water without affecting the mash temp? Or are you transferring the wort to the BK first, then heating the sparge water in the HLT? IF you do the latter, does it take much time for the temp to ramp up in the HLT? Thanks
I leave the system recirculating, switch to the HLT PID and change the temp, once the HLT is at the correct temp to sparge I stop the pumps and switch all the lines and begin spargeing.
The system can ramp a little faster than a degree per second with around 5-6 gallons of water in it using a single 4500w ULWD element.
cool set up.I recently built a E-HERMS system myself. But mine is BCS instead of PID like yours. Your Build looks great. Its just a copy of Kal's system right? the control box looks identical. I have the same set up with the st-1000 but I using a heating pad. But your idea seems to be better, I'm gonna steal it :). I dont think I have ever seen someone run the wort back though the HLT like that. Great Idea. I use a chill plate that I'm happy with. But your idea seems great. Cool vid. Subbed!!!
So clever!
Hey man, hope you get this message..the wiring diagram has helped me no end thank you...I was just worried about having the 2 negatives on the HLT and Mash PID (the SSR outputs) commoned up...no issue with backfeeding from one to another when one switches on? Or are the negative terminals always negative and it just switches the positive on when it needs to? Thanks
No, there is no back feeding, that's why the element power switch has 2 contractor blocks to keep the 2 feeds separate, they then go to the 2 separate contractor blocks on the PID select switch.
Nice system. How many batches in a year would you brew? And have you noticed a large increase in your electric bill?
Great job Alex. Can you tell me how you got the mirror finish? I used Gatot grit fine pads and a polish wheel with the polish block. I'm close. But not as good as yours.
Mike Crowe beersyndicate.com/learning_resources/beer_tutorials_view.asp?id=17
First of all, excellent system you've put together. I am also on the path to having a HERM system. I'm curious how long it takes to cool your wort using your HLT? I had the idea I would be building a counter flow wort chiller as most do, until I saw this video.
Cheers
How do you clean/"make sure" the heating coil is clean (free of grain husks or something)...? I have the same coil but have not used it yet.
Jose Garay Use a sponge with some PBW after brewing, residue comes off easily if you clean it right away.
How many liters are the kegs (i thing 75L??), and how much beer you can make. For larger kegs it will be better like 100L..??
I'm diggin' the polished kettles and the soldered ports!! Couple of questions: Is that the same size control box that Kal used? 16" X 16" What was the reason for the PID switch?
please share your knowledge Miister, we´re crying to build this beauty up here in Brazil
Love the system! I am planning on building my E-HERMS very soon. Any chance you have a material list?
www.theelectricbrewery.com/parts-list-for-building
Do you have plans or a wiring diagram somewhere for this? This is exactly what I want to build.
Hi,
Would you mind listing the parts you used for each vessel?
Thanks
Stupid question, why add two additional valves to purge the air when you could just turn the pump end sideways? I do this.
couldibeahomebrewer Added these so when I eventually mounted them to a table I could purge without turning the table.
who made the labels over the switches and buttons? I would like to have some made.
Very cool.
Alex great sysytem do you have a wiring diagram for your pannel. Thanks
Robert Kosch Just added it to the video description.
I have a 23 litre brewing barrel with an electric blanket wrapped around it in my hallway making an alcoholic ginger beer at the moment. I might upgrade to one like yours oneday if I win lotto.
Where is the flux capacitor?
kegs are gorgeous. what grit sand paper did you use?
R ardvark beersyndicate.com/learning_resources/beer_tutorials_view.asp?id=17
If you don't mind me asking, what did this cost to build? Trying to figure out what it costs versus buying something mostly built.
richf69 I would estimate about $1500-$2000
How much time do you save with this over a more traditional system? time = money. What was your time to build it? Would you consider selling some at 10-20% the cost of you to build?
Nice job! Congratulations! Where did you get your diptubes? Thx in advance
We have the same vessels (15.5 gal ) kegs, and I would like to know how you got yours so shiny, we have tried everything and can't get them to look that good, what's your secret?.
Kris Iglehart beersyndicate.com/learning_resources/beer_tutorials_view.asp?id=17
Do you have a wiring diagram for the control box, you'd be super cool if you did!
docgoodbeaver Just added it to the video description.
thanks
How did you wire the PID selector switch?
The selector switch selects which PID controls the hot side of the SSR relay for the HLT.
Take a look at this diagram: www.theelectricbrewery.com/images/PIDs.jpg
In my setup pin 8 from both controllers would go directly to the negative side of the HLT SSR. Pin 7 from the HLT and Mash PID controllers would go to the switch, the switch would send either the HLT or the Mash signal to the positive side of the SSR.
Alex,
Dude this is an awesome setup !! Well done. I have a question as I'm a little confused with the switching of the PID's from HLT to MASH. When switching this over to MASH to achieve 152 degrees, is the MASH PID controlling the element at this point? If so can you please explain or send me the schematics on how this switch is cancelling the HLT and still controlling the system. The link you show in another post does not show the "switch" option in the wiring diagram. I really appreciate any help on this. Cheers
Brian G The PID currently controlling the system at any point is the one with the yellow light under it. I just added the wiring diagram to the video description.
1-What you use to polish this Kegs?
2-Where I can buy this False botton.??
Nice vid, Thanks!!
I have two mypin pid controllers and cannot get them to fire the relay, do you have a diagram as to the settings. Ive tried everything and will be ordering an aubrin soon if I cant get these to work right.
mytmic8211 I just added the wiring diagram to the video description.
How big is yours keggle? And how long is your copper coild in your HERMS system? About 20m?
kevbou911 They are 1/2 bbl standard size, and the copper is 15 feet I believe.
WOW!
Hi, nice set-up.
Where did you buy that sparge arm? Got a link?
Cheers man
amazing
Como adquirir o seu produto a sua máquina e ela será enviada para o Brasil
I hate you. That's the best system I've seen. Kudos to you. I'd love a system like that. You lucky dog. Come on lottery.
Bad ass brother..🍻