What I’ve proved with this rig over the past 2 years, in my own fishing and with anglers at my lake, is that a simple rig made with thick mono catches carp of any size and from any water. Big lakes, small ponds, flowing water, still water, it doesn't matter. This rig can do it all. You’ll be able to present a rig tangle free, cast after cast, with absolute confidence that it’s fishing for you. What I use to tie this rig: amzn.to/45yq4b9 Lightweight mono d rig: th-cam.com/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/w-d-xo.html
@@LeeSurman-zz5ym Depends, some guests tie their own, some order my ready tied rigs and for others, we cover rig tying in detail during the tuition sessions.
@@LeeSurman-zz5ym I’ve fished with all sorts of hookbaits in the past - I don’t need anything other than a bottom bait. The simpler my fishing becomes, the better my results.
This one banked my son a nice 27 pound mirror (not a bad PB at age 11). I absolutely love simplicity and this rig is a perfect example. How come I never thought about mounting the bait with a piece of mono, simple, yet brilliant! *For those who want to know: I used 25Lb Sunset Amnesia, a size 6 chod twister (be aware, the eye op this hook is barely large enough for the 0.55 mono), a medium anti tangle sleeve and some 0.75 blow back tube. Thank you so much Matthew, best carp content on YT!
to be honest, I never had confidence in the d rig, I only had confidence in the regular hair rig, after watching your videos I decided to try the d rig and I can tell you that the results are excellent, I didn't lose a single fish, I didn't miss a single bite, so far in 4 fishing trips I have caught 12 fish including carp and grass carp. the only problem is that after almost every fish d is deformed. thank you so much... and keep making great videos
Hi mate, very nice 👍 For me, any mono rig should be considered as one use only. After any capture, the hook will be slightly damaged and therefore blunt anyway and mono is more prone to damage than coated braids but it costs a fraction of the price so just change them out. The mono will also deform as you’ve seen so again, it needs changing. Whenever I go fishing, I head out with ten of these tied up and then just swap them out as necessary. I don’t even bother to look at the hook. I do all that when I get home. Yes you will spend more money on hooks but you’ll catch loads of carp so I’d say it’s worth it. Cheers, Matt.
yes in your pond i would also change the hook after every fish because the fish mouth is hard due to rocks and gravel but i fish a big shallow lake with two feet of silt whit no snags and the average fish is not big i know you like to sharpen the hook but i don't mess with a slightly blunt hook, so I'd rather put a new one. i undarstend your messige, aniway good luck on your next fishing trip, all best...
This actual rig along with rotten-bottom tip helped me to start my carp fishing with my son. And my son was able to hook and land 22 pounder with this setup (and barbless). So it works 100%.
I agree and that's why I only use and promote the use through this channel of 'classic' rigs like the mono hair and the mono d, with a sharp hook and a running ledger.
Matt. I really love your stuff, at 72 been a carp angler since age 15, and I still learn something every time I watch you. I don't know anyone who studies rig in such depth as you, and I can confirm they work. I still like my fluorocarbon, but have brought a spool of your stuff to try. Clearly, you don't feel that the carp can see the hook link?
Hello sir, ah that’s great to hear, I'm still learning too, everyday is a school day! I worry about lots of things when I go fishing, hook sharpness, rig location, timing etc. Carp seeing the hooklink… nah! Even if they could (which 99.9% of the time they can’t), they don’t know what hooklink is. Using mono will encourage you to change hooks and rigs more frequently (which is the biggest edge). Cheers, Matt.
Matt thanks so much I have thanked you before for this amazing rig but last night I landed a 69lb catfish on your rig 25lb amnesia with a rubber making the d snowman 15mm an 20mm an nailed the cat perfect can’t believe it! Thanks so much I credit your rig for the hook hold mate your rig with just line an rubber is amazing I almost feel like I don’t need anything else and a size 8 to land a 69lb I’m still in shock the fight was insane. Thank you thank you thank you your vids have leveled me up for sure
@@matthewcollinsangler yes I’m still buzzing now just went fishing for a couple of hours and yer I’m all over the shop almost can’t think straight need another nights kip yer catching something that big is just insane I’ve been struggling to get to my 20lb PB I fish small fish ponds but just got on a better place and got my PB carp night quite 20 but 19.68 an then to land a 69lb fish yer it’s not a carp it’s a catfish I dunno if it’s almost more amazing to me always said I want to catch that big catfish outta there and I bloody did it can’t believe it mate! Yer your right I am still buzzing was a bit skatterbrained tonight fishing think I need more sleep that catfish had blown me away. Yer your rig mind set is top notch I know you used to be a tool maker didn’t you very technically minded I love your content. Thanks again Matt for the d rig tips I lost a couple tonight bailiff told me I should put a bead or shot on so I getting a 2nd hit but I thought bolt then goes to running is better ? I dunno does it matter I landed a 69lb cat on a 8 hook so really do I need to change or is it just unlucky with some takes ? I’m rambling now like I said still buzzing
@@mikeford6611 Loving your buzz for the sport man! I would never recommend doing what your bailiff suggests. At best it’s unnecessary, or counterproductive and if done wrong, potentially dangerous. If you are losing fish on that rig, it’s because your hook point is blunt or damaged. Please bear in mind that my version of what is sharp is different to 95% of anglers. Unless you’re really good at hook sharpening, only use the rig once then tie a fresh one with a new hook. If fishing over gravel the hook will be ruined on the retrieve anyway so don’t re-cast. Do not move the rig once it’s in place. For more insights on this, watch this: th-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=G98GCM0vJZ_MtLRm
Best videos on TH-cam along with carls videos but forgot his second name. Both helped me so much as I’ve only been carp fishing just over a year. Keep the videos coming
I used it all the week end and works perfectly. I only prefer the whipping knot version cause it avoids the blob to interferre with the exit direction of the hooklink from the eye of the hook. Really perfect hookholds with nash chod 6 and 22mm baits
Fishing is different for everyone but Ive never had a mono tangle but a braided mostly always does unless in a solid bag or hooked into a mesh bag, or hitting the clip to separate the rig.
Matthew so long as it’s just under arm margin fishing you can use a couple of grains of sweet corn on certain 8 mm bait screws ( just grips the skin of the corn ) Had a few carp on this set up & some stunning old crucians
Hi Matthew Still amazing content and incredible quality video ! Every time I watch your channel, I have more and more questions and more and more tips to increase the way I can catch more carp. I'm still a beginner on carp fishing (4 years of experience) but still learning from your great videos. This year, I'm fully trying the running rig that you talked about in previous video, I'm 100% confident on it, get few carps on a small pond next to my location. Your new video raise few questions : -you already said that coated braid could lay bad on the lake bed, but could it be the same with 0.50 mono then ? -every time a new rig is described on a article, the common advantage of this is rig is, most of the time, a D on the hook (like D rig, your extended D rig with blowback tube). That's why I'm always using Slip D Rig, which seems to me the most versatile rig (bottom bait, snowman, pop-up etc), very robust, but you never mentioned this rig in particular. It seems that combine extended D with low balance next to the curve of the hook (like you said around 17.30) Do you think it worth it ? Best, Joseph
Hi Joseph, Coated braid only sits badly on the bottom if you strip some of the coating off. If you leave the coating in place it behaves the same as the mono but costs £££’s for no additional benefit. The slip D is a nice rig and I use it sometimes. We used it in this video: th-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/w-d-xo.html The slip D is tied with a supple braid. I use 25lbs Armourlink. It’s good for a bait boat, row boat or solid PVA bag or for casting short range with a PVA mesh bag but I wouldn’t try to cast it a long way (tangle risk). The problem with the Slip D is that you can’t change the hook quickly and the material is expensive. Unless you are a hook sharpening pro then you should be changing your hooks very frequently. Every cast at my lake! This becomes very expensive in hooklink and hooks (one rig per cast!). I recommend the bombproof mono D rig because it’s quick and easy to tie and mono is very cheap. I recommend the blowback multi rig because you only have to change the hook.
Hi Matthew, nice to see that's nearly the same rig that I use in big rivers. I use it with size 2 chod hooks, the only difference is that I use no tube, but I wrap the mono further in opposite of the barb. Often I have a break of the tube, that means that I must bind a new rig, when you bind it like I do, I have no more problems. What do you think?
Hi there, for me this rig as with all mono rigs, is ‘disposable’ ie one rig per cast in certain situations. The blow back tube can normally be re-used multiple times but not if you’re using micro barbed hooks. I use barbless size 6 on the river and elsewhere so they last me multiple captures. The reason why I prefer a blow back tube to whipping down the shank is that it’s easier and quicker but your way works too 👍
Must admit that I’ve tried every looklink material going during the past 30 years. Started out with mono in the 80’s, did the whole snakebite and mantis thing, fluorocarbon, combinations of both - then came full circle back to mono. When I’m lying on my bed in the dead of night I just KNOW that a mono set- up is definitely presenting ok. Today, I’ve chucked out the lot and am just using Amnesia. And I’ve caught all my biggest on it. I honest don’t think hooklink material makes a blind bit of difference- won’t be going back to anything more complicated
I love this rig, but can never push myself to try it. The lack of flex at hook end bothers me. Despite knowing it’s very effective by all accounts. I think if the fish approaches somewhere toward the front it’s arguably one of the most efficient rigs. My concern is if a fish approach’s from the rear so hook eye side it maybe is easier to get done. No evidence whatsoever on this from me, just how it seems
One of the reasons why I use 0.50 mono is that it’s semi stiff. Not very stiff. Stiff enough to make it tangle proof but supple enough to react naturally when it’s sucked in. When they try to blow it out the semi stiff material means it’s less likely to exit straight which leads to more hookups.
I have used this rig with sweet corn and maggots the only thing I changed was using a micro rig swivel and a bit of baitfloss and it worked fine I haven’t use pop ups though…
Hi mate, yes sure if you’ve got some Nash Claws and you’d like to try this rig then it will absolutely work. The main reason I prefer the size 6 Twister is that the shank is longer so the blowback tube can act as an ejection indicator and the 0.50 mono is a nice match for the eye size. The size 6 chod claws have a larger eye so the 0.50 is a little bit loose but if you are careful when you blob the D and make it as large as you can, it should work fine. Just pull on the bait firmly to check the D is secure before actually fishing. All the best with it!
That was a really interesting video. It was good to hear your thought process for all the components and why u do what u do, I like to think I use a similar process to get to what rig I use
I wonder a bit about the hooks, I normally fish tench and carps and I can use the same hook for months, the mouth on those fish are so soft, maybe I am deluding myself and I should change hooks more often 😀
Carp fishing is very different to coarse fishing. In carp fishing we are relying on the rig to hook the carp automatically. We are not sitting watching the rod tip and striking as you would do when ledgering. Carp can only hook themselves on a very sharp hook and if it’s not sharp enough they will get away with it countless times. In my experience as angler and lake owner, changing your hooks regularly should transform your results if not then there is something not quite right with your rig 😊
I am fishing this rig tied with 0,55mm Snag leader and chod claw size 4 like 3-4 years. Why are you using the twister in such a small size? Isn't the gape a bit to small espacially with a bigger hookbait?? Do you think mine would work better? Do you have ever compared these two? And also i am using a figure of 8 knot at the end. It's much faster and easier to tie. Also i use a 6 mil bore bead over the quick change swivle for a better movement
Hi, I fished the twisters and the claws side by side and I find no difference between the 2, they’re both great hooks, personal preference. I’ve been catching on size 6 twisters with 24mm bait for years, no issue with the gape.
Hi Matt, just wondering if you fish slack lines with your running rigs? As I understand you rely on the clutch to apply the hooking force, but is there anything to initially drive the hook in when the rig tightens if you don’t use a bowstring tight line? I’ve been using running rigs in solid bags over the winter months and have had some good fish, but I’ve been using a mega tight line down to 3oz leads. Mainly due to fish noticing the line and potentially spooking them, I would like to give slack/er lines a go, but I just don’t have the confidence. Hoping you can shed some light for me, thanks very much. Jake
Hi Jake, 99% of my fishing over the last 15 years has been with running rigs. When I first started using them I fished them very slack (lines hanging limp from the tip slack!) Leads were 3.5oz inline set to give a tiny bump effect on the take and then convert into a running lead setup. This setup out-fished everything I knew up until that point and I never looked back. Nowadays I tend to fish tight or with a 15g backlead. I still slack-line at close quarters though. A free running ledger works because the carp doesn't realise anything’s wrong until it’s too late for them to do something about it. Even when they swim back towards me and there is no clutch effect, the weight of the line and a free running ledger is all you need to hold that hook in place. I know it’s a huge leap of faith (it was for me!) but you’ll get the same from anyone that fishes this way. I get plenty of messages about how well this works, sometimes it feels like cheating! Enjoy, Matt.
I don’t fish with pellets because they break down quickly and they don’t work with bait screws. If you can work out a way to attach a big pellet to the D loop, I’m sure it will work but it’s not something I’d do.
I’ve been using my own version of the basic complicated for many years and two of the videos on the channel feature it (although we don’t call it that). The only real difference is that Mr. Renyard uses fluoro whereas I use mono or braid. If you like rig tying then the basic complicated is all you need.
Yes mate it should do but you need to do a really nice job of blobbing the mono or it will pull through the eye on impact with the water (if you are using a large bait). Try it, test it. Then you’ll know whether the exact combination of materials that you have works 👍
nice video, as usual 👌 i've been told that fluorocarbon rigs, with out turned eye hooks, work better when they have more room to move around freely and easily so an anti tangle sleeve is actually counter productive .. what do you think about this?
Interesting that you catch carp of all sizes with the 0.50mm line. We've been brought up to think finer lines for better presentation to fool wary fish. Maybe this comes from general pleasure fishing where we all started off.
Hi I wont to setup your running rig with the nash components which I have most of it i also have the fox angled running rig set i was just wondering which would work better with tubing as one of the lakes I fish is tubing only many thanks again
Hi mate, yes you can use a ring swivel at the hooklink end to create a pivot point but wherever you have a pivot, there’s an increased chance of tangling. I demonstrated the rig with a stiff connection because that’s the most robust (anti-tangle) solution and that was the point of the whole video. We didn't feature the lead system in this video, that video is coming out later this year. The lead system I use allows the rig to rotate and pivot when it’s fishing but in flight, everything is locked solid to reduce tangles. Here’s a quick overview of it I put on Instagram: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
@@matthewcollinsangler great, really great as always. Honestly never had tangles on ring swiwels but what u said, as always, have totally sense. Top, this week end ill be on the bank with it
Just tried the rig for the first time and last night i lost a big one, the hook came loose. So not my first choice, or it needs to be adjusted. Bigger hook or maybe a shrink tube @ or a Line aligner on the hook. I don't know why i lost it....
In my experience as angler and fishery owner, hook pulls are either caused by semi fixed rigs or blunt/damaged hooks. I’ve caught hundreds of carp on this rig and only lost a handful fishing with a new hook each time and a running lead. I’ve done a video on hook pulls if that’s of interest: th-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/w-d-xo.html. Cheers, Matt
Been watching a lot of your videos and thanks for the incredible work you are doing, I learn so much that it make my brain spin... One thing that wonders me is why not use a palomar knot at the svirwel end ?? it should stronger and also uses less material.... I just know you have a good reason, but can not figure out why.. I understand with a think monoline, but with braid ?? all the other fishers use a palomarknot, but not the carpanglers, they use a version of the clinch/bloodknot.. Why ??
Hi, thanks for the support. Okay, the short answer is because it isn't appropriate. The long answer is a lot more complicated but here goes! In carp fishing we use braid for hooklinks and for mainline. If I’m using some braided hooklink and I wanted to tie it to a swivel directly then I could in theory use a palomar knot but I’d never choose to do that because it’s slower and difficult to do. The Palomar is great if you are tying to a swivel and the swivel isn't connected to anything but when I tie a hooklink to a swivel, the swivel would already be tied to the mainline or a leader so how am I going to tie the Palomar knot? I can’t just pass the swivel through the loop without passing the whole rod through. I could make the loop bigger and pass the rig through that loop before tightening down. It’s possible but not simple. It’s just easier and quicker to use a 5 turn uni knot or double uni knot. Carp fishing hooklink are rated at either 25 lbs or 35 lbs and in my tests I can deadlift an 8kg kettle bell with 35 lb Armourlink which is strong enough to bank a catfish of 135lbs so why would I need to use a different knot? It’s only hearsay that the Palomar knot would be stronger. It doesn't matter what the theory say, what matters to me is: is it strong enough for what I need and can I achieve that knot consistently?” The other time we use braid is for mainline but we never use braid tied directly to the swivel. We’d always tie to a leader. That might be mono leader or a spliced loop leader. The palomar knot is not applicable for a mono leader and I’ve never even thought about trying to tie braided mainline to a lead free leader. I think you’d have a lot of trouble tightening it down because the braid won’t flow well over a woven material. I’ve spent the last 15 years tying and testing knots. I use what works for me and is easy to do 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks, it all makes sense, I am comming from spinning with much thinner braided lines, which has a tendensy to cut itself when the tension gets to high, mostly when I have a hold on a rock or something else.. That is not really an issue in presenting a biat for a carp og Tench, there are a lot of test of knotstrengths on youtube, most find that the palomarknot is the strongest also the "stupid angler knot" should be very strong, but as I do not need to tow in containerships, I do not really need the extra strength.. 🤣
@@markwebb8616 Ah right, I've shown how to tie the non slip mono loop knot in this video as well, see if it helps: th-cam.com/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/w-d-xo.html
Blow back tube size depends on the hook size you're using. I'd match a 0.50 blow back tube with a size 8 chod twister. It'll be a bit tricky to thread onto a size 6, doable just harder than the 0.75. I wouldn't worry too much about the palm test. It's not an accurate representation of how a mono rig works underwater.
@@richarddickinson7242 No I don’t change the hooklink length, I fish this rig 6’’ everywhere I go. If dropping from a bait boat, I use an inline running lead, if casting or placing rods with a rowing boat, I use a swivel running lead. Check out my other videos, plenty of straight forward advice and tutorials as you get into the sport 😊
You can use whatever lead setup you want. I don’t fish lead clips, I only fish and recommend running rigs, they are simpler, cheaper, harder to make unsafe and more effective: th-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps.
@@matthewcollinsanglerupdate I have used running inline set up with this rig and have landed every fish I hooked. Also have no used a lead clip since. Thanks for all your useful videos
Hi mate, if you prefer a beaked point then sure you can use the Nash claws but I’d use the chod claw version. Size 6 is all you need as these hooks are very strong and quite large. All my test fishing on this rig has been with the chod Twister because the shank is longer and if I tie a 4 turn knotless knot, it leaves a gap of a few mm between the top of the blowout tube and the knot. This acts as an indicator if I get done. If you use the claw, the shank is very short and you’ll lose this gap but it’s totally an option.
You’ll find the eye of a size 6 Nash chod Twister is a bit tight for 0.60 mono, that's why I choose 0.50 for a size 6. If you want to use 0.60 then you’ll have to step up to a size 4 chod Twister. The other option would be to use a size 6 Nash chod claw. Although they are still categorised as a size 6, these have a larger eye, a thicker wire gauge and a wider gape. They also have a shorter shank so you lose the gap that I have between the top of the blowout tube and the 4 wraps of the 4 turn knotless knot. Without this gap you’ll lose the bite indication (telling you if the carp are getting away with it). It’s not the end of the world but it's a useful feature of the rig as originally designed. Cheers, Matt.
It is but Tom's illusion d is aimed at a wafter bait fished on a clear spot. Where Mathew's is designed for a bait straight out the bag I for 1 am going too give this rig a a good go this season as I like the anti tangle prospect but I will fish it a little longer in length
Don't Use these long bait screws people, they only have to turn in the carps mouth wrong and give them a nasty injury. Plus, if your fishing lakes with cats present, stick to coated braid, it's stronger.
Absolute rubbish I've had big cats on mono and there mouths hasn't touched it but I've had cats on braided hook lengths and most fray and snap 5 mins into the scrap. And mat has cats in his lake and has tested this rig for over 2 years
Your actively encouraging all the noddys to use sea fishing line and pull the head off every fish they catch, which is already a huge problem on commercials....
Your talking absolute nonsense m8 if he was using 40lb mainline I'd get your point. It's no different too using 25lb boom material on a Ronnie rig or stiff hinge.
Hi, Matthew, you did very clear explanatory video. No dought Drig is one of the best bait presentations. Let me ask you why Himalayan salt? Is sea salt any good? Or it will distract fish from bait? Why salt is so attracted to carps?
Hi there, salt is an essential mineral for all living creatures including carp. It’s not naturally available in fresh water but the fish can find it in small quantities on the lakebed. Pre and post spawning will be the time when their salt requirements are at their highest. Female carp use salt to release their eggs and post spawning they'll need salt to replenish their system. You can use table salt or Himalayan salt, up to you, Himalayan salt includes a wide range of nutrients. It doesn’t distract fish from bait, it’s an attractor. Cheers, Matt
Hi Matthew, thanks again for another super video, clear and easy to follow (as usual). Best wishes Jim
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He mate awesome video´s keep up the good work! I fish a lot on the France Rivers where i prefer claw hooks because of the stones... Is this rig also good with a claw or only a twister hook?
Hi there, I use the Nash chod twisters on the French rivers all the time. It’s a myth that beaked point hooks are better over gravel than a straight point, gravel damages all hook points. I use the chod claws with 0.60 mono for the mono hair rig because the eye is larger than the twisters. The shank of the claws is a bit small for the ‘deadly d’ rig for me.
Excellent video, I have often thought this with D rigs so have found this excellent and will give this a try 👍 leaving my conventional D’s for wafters 🍻
Silly question - How does this work with a pop up? Or is this primarily for a bottom bait? My thought was that with a pop up, the hook would still lay flat? Or is this purely for a clean bottom? Thanks 👍
Hi there, you could if you wanted but it’s a stiff hooklink so it’d be a very low popup. I don’t bother with popups or wafters anymore, they don’t catch me more fish. The rig is designed and works great with bottom baits 😊 It’s all I need.
Hi Matt. Great video as always. One question; what are your thoughts on the mechanics of this rig being a very stiff rig when approached by the fish from different directions? I like a 360 rig like the Ronnie because of the ability to turn when approached by the carp from any direction. Cheers 🙂👍
Hi mate, I know that carp anglers across the land are obsessed with the Ronnie/Spinner rig but you just don’t need them IMO. Any rig that can easily spin in and easily spin out. Spinner rigs are known for random/poor quality hook holds and I for one would never use one. One of the reasons why I use 0.50 mono and not fluoro for this rig is that it’s semi stiff. Not very stiff. Stiff enough to make it tangle proof but supple enough to react naturally when it’s sucked in. When they try to blow it out, the semi stiff material means it’s less likely to exit straight which is what leads to hookups. I’ve been using this rig myself for two years and sharing it with tuition anglers at my lake and it’s been very successful wherever it’s used. If your hook is sharp, this rig works 💯 👍
Brilliant Matthew Been using a d rig since restarted carping & have been plagued by d pulling out so will try upping line diameter I do find short d suited to smaller 10 or 12 mm baits
Hi Matt. Going a bit off topic here but you said you could use any mainline you like 12lb/15lb. If using a much stronger hooklength than mainline could you not snap off much further up the line leaving the carp trailing long lengths of line? I know its common in carp fishing to have stronger hooklengths. Match fishing the other way round.
Hi mate, I understand that if you are used to coarse fishing this may seem completely backwards. In specimen carp fishing, it has to be this way around or we’d never be able to catch what we catch using regular gear. Imagine trying to cast 30lbs (0.50) monofilament mainline off massive reels to safely land carp because you need 25lb hooklink due to some rocks or mussels. Modern carp fishing wouldn't exist if this was the case. Your point is totally valid though and our job is to make sure that the carp are safe if something bad does happen. There are 2 things I do to achieve that: One, I only fish running rigs because they are the most effective and safest, and my running lead has a large plastic run ring that is designed to break if the lead gets trapped. Two, I only use barbless hooks as these are the safest way of carp fishing IMO as the carp can easily get rid of the hook if it’s trailing a rig. We’ve been using inline running rigs here at Beausoleil for years. We drain down every two years and the only time we see lead still on the line is when someone has used a semi fixed rig.
Totally agree Matt, there's no doubt carp really struggle with stiff mono rigs, it's all i use now, i did find that the tubing /blow back tubing could split so i now use hook beads, had to try a few different ones which wouldn't slip, and also use a Fox pop-up weight about two inches back from the hook. I normally use double bottom baits and like the idea of using mono to attach them
Hi mathew great informative video ive just tried to tye this rig but only got some trilene big game fluorocarbon in 0.56 and using some bank tackle size 6 chod hooks but for the life of me I cant get the tag end back through the eye not sure if it would be worth buying some of the nash 0.50 and hope it will go through thanks
Hi mate, different hooks have different sized eyes. I like the Nash chod Twisters because the eye size is fairly generous. 0.56 is quite thick. You could try cutting the tag end of the mono at 45 degrees. That will help. If you aren't trying to cast to the moon then most anglers should be able to get away with 0.45 mono so that’s another option for the hook you have.
I always love watching your videos, what inline set up do use with this rig? I know you have previously done a video on inline set ups but has anything changed since then?
Yes, I have developed another lead setup that I’ve been testing for a couple of years, we’ll be doing a full video on it but here’s a quick overview I’ve done on instagram: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Hi mate, absolutely no need to steam this material. I just make the rig, pin them into my box and then clip them on (or pull them from the glug pot). That’s another reason why I don’t use fluoro as it’s a bugger for taking a set (that’s why you need to steam it).
A rig I used for many years more so on hard bottom. Or light weed wafter bait.. I did have an issue on clay flying takes and big bow wave noticed the rig was sticking to the clay after this happened twice the give away noticed clay on hook and hook length. But excellent rig bomb proof
You can give it a go if you want but having watched 100's of anglers tie the knotless knot, you'll struggle to whip much further past the point of the hook IMO.
Hi mate, I wouldn’t use any curved shank hook with this rig. You might catch a few but the effective gape is too narrow, I explain this in detail here: th-cam.com/video/0GRf-2Qf404/w-d-xo.html
What a great video. I know it’s annoying for you. But if you get time could you list every item from the leader all the way down the hook you use when using a running led system and then with this rig? All in Nash components I’d assume 👍 Always been a helicopter drop off led, but your explanations are going to convert me to a running rig set up. Many Thanks
Hi there, great to hear you’re going to give the running rigs a go, if you follow my videos, you know how big a fan of them I am 😀 You can find a list of all the components for this rig here: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/matthewcollins/list/1PE0L1094AZQF?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d We'll do a full video of the lead system but in the meantime, here's a quick overview I posted on Instagram: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt
Thanks for the reply and will be ordering this up, do you ever find it slightly complicates casting as the lead can come back up the line as it’s not in a fixed position? That’s the only thing I can think of that annoyed me when using running rigs many years ago…
And also is it harder/ any tips on feeling the lead down with the running rig, going from the usual fixed lead clip system… so strange largely fishing for 20 odd years a certain way and then to listen to your videos and understand your logic to it all. Very well done.
@@ChristianD1992 Hi Christian, the secret to casting running rigs is to get the balance right between lead size and bait size. My go-to option is a 3 - 3.5oz lead with a 20 - 24mm bait and a narrow PVA stick (highly compressed, 3cm long). If the lead is too light, relative to the size of the bait/PVA stick, then the lead and the bait will tend to separate in the air. Once you’ve got the balance of the rig right, feathering the lead towards the end of the cast helps limit the separation, as will trapping the lead before it enters the water (always feel the lead down on a tight line). It also helps if the sleeve you use has a rigid stem to it as this will help to hold the lead by the swivel in flight. There is a trick I use to temporarily hold the lead next to the swivel but it’s not easy to explain in words. We will be releasing a full video on this at some point but I hope, for the time being, that gives you some insights into how to cast a running rig.
@@ChristianD1992 In terms of feeling the lead down with a running rig, there should be absolutely no difference to how you do this compared to a semi fixed rig. Make the cast (overcast rather than under), feather the lead to control the distance, trap the lead before it hits the water, raise the rod and feel the lead down on a tight line. If you struggle at first you can always cheat a bit and use some PVA tape to hold the lead by the swivel while you work on your technique. Best of luck, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler What did you dislike about it? I'd prefer it for a more stable d section than the silicone tube. Was thinking about mixing your rig and the iq d, trying a d rig with the whiping knot and a chod hook pattern
@@matthewcollinsangler you’ll tied iq on that twister ? I think it will look the same but different is in 0.50 is no possible to tie iq on that stiff becouse first knot on the shank will slip , and that stiffness is very very useful becouse soft D will always distorts . Why not stiff German ? Anyway I like new style and more if is tested and works . Thank you for that knowledge. 👍🏻
@@longjohnsilver9192 There is no difference in the stability of the D between the two rigs. The blowout tube holds the D very securely (if you match the hook to the blowout tube size correctly). I don’t like the IQ D rig because that whipping knot is way too fiddly to tie. I can tie my version in 1/3rd of the time. The IQ D is normally tied with a curve shank hook. I fished it a few times and every time the carp were able to successfully pick it up and spit it out. I got done, repeatedly. This is not something I’m guessing at, I know this because I used a ‘tell tale’ lead system. I did like some of the design aspects of the IQ D rig, so I kept those and changed what didn't work for me. My changes worked and this rig has been very successful for me and everyone I've shared it with over the last two years.
@@Bananalive2684 No, I didn't try the IQ D rig on the Twister as the shank is too short. The IQ D is normally tied with a curve shank hook. I fished it a few times and every time the carp were able to successfully pick it up and spit it out. I got done, repeatedly. I know this because I used a ‘tell tale’ lead system. Apart from the fact that the rig didn't work very well for me, I don’t like the IQ D rig because that whipping knot is way too fiddly to tie. I can tie my version in 1/3rd of the time. I did like some of the design aspects of the IQ D rig, so I kept those and changed what I didn't like. My changes worked and this rig has been very successful for me and everyone I've shared it with over the last two years. Glad you like the video 😊
Thankyou so much for sharing your hard earned knowledge....i always enjoy and always learn something.... BUT... dear matt....when you sit at a table do you sit on a "shair" or does smoke go up a "shimney"...?.... in that vein.... are you fishing over "shod" or CHod.... i know im going to hell for this but in an attempt to regain some credibility... my compliment to you is that all three of my rods currently have your "shock and run" rigs on....ive been using them since last spring when i watched your video and have found them very effective...thankyou for that.....tight lines and stay safe
Haha, my OH, camerawoman, producer and editor (she does it all really!) keeps telling me off for that !! I'll try harder 😜 So nice to hear you're a fan of the shock and rig 👍
Hi @matthewcollins surely we want our boilies to break down and after 24 hours should be a lot softer so they leak out the attraction? I've always thought cheap bait doesn't break down. I'm guessing the glug put a skin on it so if this is the case why do we glug them before throwing out the freebies. I know because videos tell us to. I'm now in two minds on what to do. Decisions, decisions 😂😂😂
Hmm, it’s not something I worry about TBH. Boilies don’t have to break down to be attractive. They leak attraction all the time. That’s why we use them. I want them to stay whole long enough for the carp to find them. I just use Scopex Squid straight out of the bag most of the time. If I need them to be harder because of the crayfish, then I salt cure them. If I need them to be more attractive because I’m fishing singles at a range I can’t bait up at, I glug them.
Great video Matt, but I am curious. I have always been shy of using thick hook links because of the idea you'll get fewer bites than a thin, supple braid if the carp feel it and eject it sooner. Match fishermen know this and will downsize their line and hooks to get more bites. I do understand the anti-tangle benefits, but in your opinion if these weren't an issue, would a thin supple line convert more bites into fish on the bank because they're less likely to eject it early?
Hi mate, the idea that thin lines get you more bites comes from coarse fishing and match angling. Specimen carp fishing is completely different. The fish are much larger and feed in a completely different manner so what works in coarse fishing has no relation to what works in carp fishing. It’s an absolute myth that carp feel the hooklink on their lips. If this was the case we’d never catch them. I’m a big fan of strong supple materials such as 25lbs Armourlink and I’ve caught loads of carp using it but you need to use it in the right situation. I’ve tried using supple rigs on large lakes and reservoirs but it’s a disaster. They tangle in flight and then get tangled by nuisance species. Totally inappropriate. This rig works because it stays tangle free and the carp find it difficult to eject (especially when you use a free running ledger). If your hook is sharp, this rig works 💯 👍
I have just tied a few of these rigs after watching this video. I must say they work a treat on a lake where the rudd normally tangle and foul up the hair rigs. I shall use them a lot more.
Just a question, my lake rules state no mainline over 20lb breaking strain and that all hook links and leaders have to be less breaking strain than the mainline breaking strain, have you got any recommendations?
Sure, my starting point would be to use your mainline for hooklink. If you choose something like the Nash Armourline in 15lbs (0.35) then you can use it for both, no problem. You might need to add an anti tangle sleeve to stiffen the hooklink near the swivel. For rigs, you don’t need to look any further than the mono hair. Watch this if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UeNiaTUIu8N_jnsB If you want to use a mono D rig, then I’d watch this video: th-cam.com/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XkpytmNptAsFA5OK
Good morning im trying to tye this rig ive got some 0 .50mm mono and some size 5 nash chod twister hooks and for the life of me I can not get the mono for the d to go back through the eye ive even cut the mono with a point what am I doing wrong thanks
Hi Michael, I’m very surprised that you are struggling to do this. I’ve tied literally thousands of these rigs with size 6 chod Twister and the mono goes through easily with a straight cut. The only thing I can think of is that your scissors are blunt. You do need a good quality pair of carp fishing scissors to produce a clean cut in 0.50 mono.
How can you say ‘you may use the latest anti tangle technology….’, ‘but there’s no guarantee your rigs not tangled…,’. Then propose a rig that’s 100% anti tangle proof???
Hi Matt. I struggle to pass a 0.4 line twice back through the eye so how do you do it 3 times with a 0.5 ? I'm guessing it's the hook but I use the claw in a 4 and just about get it through twice
Ah I just use sharp scissors to make a nice clean cut. If your scissors are blunt, this might be the trouble. The Nash claw comes in two eye styles, standard (in-turned eye) and chod style (out-turned eye). The chod style has a much larger eye so maybe you are trying to use an in-turned eye hook (which is why you are struggling). I can make this rig with a size 6 Nash chod Claw and 0.60 no trouble at all. Hope that helps!
Hello, I normal fish with size 4. Is that also possible , or is the hole to big for the blob ? I use 20 mm boilie, and wanne begin with 30 mm dumbell. Because of the huge amount of bream. They take the 20mm already on the water i fish. But i ask myself if i use 20-30 mm bait. Doesn't the hook need to be bigger than the hook 6 u use. That the bait doesn't mask the hook. Also i use inline lead of pb. Never did you had a tangle with the mainline ? I use normally boom from korda, for tangles. Don't know if i can combine it. Sorry for my english. I speak dutch. Thanks man. Love your video's.
Hi, I’ve caught lots of carp on this rig with a size 6 chod twister and 24mm baits (I salt cure mine to make them bream/cray resistant). This rig would work fine for 20x30mm dumbbell with a size 6 chod twister, you don’t need to use a size 4 with such big baits. If you go up to a size 4, I’d be worried about the blob on the 0.50 mono. If you want to use a size 4, use 0.60mono. Korda boom is very stiff and I wouldn’t use it for this rig. One of the reasons why I use regular 0.50 mono is that it’s semi stiff. Not very stiff. Stiff enough to make it tangle proof but supple enough to react naturally when it’s sucked in. Hope that helps 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks matthew, i will try your set up the same with a chod 6 twister. I also have a lot of hooks, curve in stock. Does the D rig also works with curve hooks ? (Just for info)I see other people work with curve hooks also. Is there a reason it has to be a chod hook with the eye to the outside ? Thanks
@@Kegels001 I know curved hooks are very popular but I don't use them. They don't partner well with mono because it kicks the hook over at an aggressive angle which creates a very narrow gape which is the last thing I want. I talk about this in this video: th-cam.com/video/0GRf-2Qf404/w-d-xo.html
Hello Matthew, In made some rigs and tryed it today. Same set up as you. With my second cast, my rig was already tangled. Do you have an idea why ? I will try to upload the photo. Edit: i tryed to upload the photo's. But it does not work. 😢
What I’ve proved with this rig over the past 2 years, in my own fishing and with anglers at my lake, is that a simple rig made with thick mono catches carp of any size and from any water. Big lakes, small ponds, flowing water, still water, it doesn't matter. This rig can do it all. You’ll be able to present a rig tangle free, cast after cast, with absolute confidence that it’s fishing for you.
What I use to tie this rig: amzn.to/45yq4b9
Lightweight mono d rig: th-cam.com/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/w-d-xo.html
Do you prefer your customers too use your rigs. Or do you show them the rig and then leave it up too then.
And another question Mathew why is it you don't fish pop ups. Is it that old school mentality of fishing bottom baits
And do you ever drill your boileys out and plug a bit of Cork into them?
@@LeeSurman-zz5ym Depends, some guests tie their own, some order my ready tied rigs and for others, we cover rig tying in detail during the tuition sessions.
@@LeeSurman-zz5ym I’ve fished with all sorts of hookbaits in the past - I don’t need anything other than a bottom bait. The simpler my fishing becomes, the better my results.
This one banked my son a nice 27 pound mirror (not a bad PB at age 11). I absolutely love simplicity and this rig is a perfect example. How come I never thought about mounting the bait with a piece of mono, simple, yet brilliant! *For those who want to know: I used 25Lb Sunset Amnesia, a size 6 chod twister (be aware, the eye op this hook is barely large enough for the 0.55 mono), a medium anti tangle sleeve and some 0.75 blow back tube. Thank you so much Matthew, best carp content on YT!
Fantastic to hear mate and congrats to your son 👏
to be honest, I never had confidence in the d rig, I only had confidence in the regular hair rig, after watching your videos I decided to try the d rig and I can tell you that the results are excellent, I didn't lose a single fish, I didn't miss a single bite, so far in 4 fishing trips I have caught 12 fish including carp and grass carp. the only problem is that after almost every fish d is deformed. thank you so much... and keep making great videos
Hi mate, very nice 👍 For me, any mono rig should be considered as one use only. After any capture, the hook will be slightly damaged and therefore blunt anyway and mono is more prone to damage than coated braids but it costs a fraction of the price so just change them out. The mono will also deform as you’ve seen so again, it needs changing. Whenever I go fishing, I head out with ten of these tied up and then just swap them out as necessary. I don’t even bother to look at the hook. I do all that when I get home. Yes you will spend more money on hooks but you’ll catch loads of carp so I’d say it’s worth it. Cheers, Matt.
yes in your pond i would also change the hook after every fish because the fish mouth is hard due to rocks and gravel but i fish a big shallow lake with two feet of silt whit no snags and the average fish is not big i know you like to sharpen the hook but i don't mess with a slightly blunt hook, so I'd rather put a new one. i undarstend your messige, aniway good luck on your next fishing trip, all best...
This actual rig along with rotten-bottom tip helped me to start my carp fishing with my son. And my son was able to hook and land 22 pounder with this setup (and barbless). So it works 100%.
Awesome!
Excellent video I can remember using Sundridge amnesia in black when I very first started carping many years ago
Rigs are like fashion in carp fishing seen it all since the 80s .a sharp hook 🪝 on feeding fish is all that's required.
I agree and that's why I only use and promote the use through this channel of 'classic' rigs like the mono hair and the mono d, with a sharp hook and a running ledger.
Matt. I really love your stuff, at 72 been a carp angler since age 15, and I still learn something every time I watch you. I don't know anyone who studies rig in such depth as you, and I can confirm they work. I still like my fluorocarbon, but have brought a spool of your stuff to try. Clearly, you don't feel that the carp can see the hook link?
Hello sir, ah that’s great to hear, I'm still learning too, everyday is a school day! I worry about lots of things when I go fishing, hook sharpness, rig location, timing etc. Carp seeing the hooklink… nah! Even if they could (which 99.9% of the time they can’t), they don’t know what hooklink is. Using mono will encourage you to change hooks and rigs more frequently (which is the biggest edge). Cheers, Matt.
Matt thanks so much I have thanked you before for this amazing rig but last night I landed a 69lb catfish on your rig 25lb amnesia with a rubber making the d snowman 15mm an 20mm an nailed the cat perfect can’t believe it! Thanks so much I credit your rig for the hook hold mate your rig with just line an rubber is amazing I almost feel like I don’t need anything else and a size 8 to land a 69lb I’m still in shock the fight was insane. Thank you thank you thank you your vids have leveled me up for sure
Absolutely brilliant!!! I know how hard these cats can pull, I'm sure you're still buzzing! And yes, you probably don't need any other rig 😛
@@matthewcollinsangler yes I’m still buzzing now just went fishing for a couple of hours and yer I’m all over the shop almost can’t think straight need another nights kip yer catching something that big is just insane I’ve been struggling to get to my 20lb PB I fish small fish ponds but just got on a better place and got my PB carp night quite 20 but 19.68 an then to land a 69lb fish yer it’s not a carp it’s a catfish I dunno if it’s almost more amazing to me always said I want to catch that big catfish outta there and I bloody did it can’t believe it mate! Yer your right I am still buzzing was a bit skatterbrained tonight fishing think I need more sleep that catfish had blown me away. Yer your rig mind set is top notch I know you used to be a tool maker didn’t you very technically minded I love your content. Thanks again Matt for the d rig tips I lost a couple tonight bailiff told me I should put a bead or shot on so I getting a 2nd hit but I thought bolt then goes to running is better ? I dunno does it matter I landed a 69lb cat on a 8 hook so really do I need to change or is it just unlucky with some takes ? I’m rambling now like I said still buzzing
@@mikeford6611 Loving your buzz for the sport man! I would never recommend doing what your bailiff suggests. At best it’s unnecessary, or counterproductive and if done wrong, potentially dangerous. If you are losing fish on that rig, it’s because your hook point is blunt or damaged. Please bear in mind that my version of what is sharp is different to 95% of anglers. Unless you’re really good at hook sharpening, only use the rig once then tie a fresh one with a new hook. If fishing over gravel the hook will be ruined on the retrieve anyway so don’t re-cast. Do not move the rig once it’s in place. For more insights on this, watch this: th-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=G98GCM0vJZ_MtLRm
@@matthewcollinsangler cheers Matt I haven’t got into sharpening yet and yes it is gravel it’s a gravel Pitt pool
@@mikeford6611definitely change your hooks, catch or blank, one hook or rig per chuck
Best videos on TH-cam along with carls videos but forgot his second name. Both helped me so much as I’ve only been carp fishing just over a year. Keep the videos coming
Wonderful to hear mate, thank you and glad to be part of your fishing journey 👍
Thanks for sharing this video Matt, I always learn something new. 💪
Glad you enjoyed it mate 😊
I used it all the week end and works perfectly. I only prefer the whipping knot version cause it avoids the blob to interferre with the exit direction of the hooklink from the eye of the hook. Really perfect hookholds with nash chod 6 and 22mm baits
That's wonderful to hear, congrats!
Fishing is different for everyone but Ive never had a mono tangle but a braided mostly always does unless in a solid bag or hooked into a mesh bag, or hitting the clip to separate the rig.
Matthew so long as it’s just under arm margin fishing you can use a couple of grains of sweet corn on certain 8 mm bait screws ( just grips the skin of the corn )
Had a few carp on this set up & some stunning old crucians
Another well presented and informative video - no nonsense , simple rig mechanics - Thanks for sharing 👍🏻🎣
Appreciate the support mate 👍
Thank you for this. You're so clear. I've saved your videos and rewatch until I've tied my knots!
One day I'll be able to do it without looking 🤞🐟
Great to hear mate, practice makes perfect 😊
Thanks Matt you’re tutorials are so beneficial for an American learning to fish UK waters
Wonderful to hear!
Hi Matthew
Still amazing content and incredible quality video !
Every time I watch your channel, I have more and more questions and more and more tips to increase the way I can catch more carp. I'm still a beginner on carp fishing (4 years of experience) but still learning from your great videos.
This year, I'm fully trying the running rig that you talked about in previous video, I'm 100% confident on it, get few carps on a small pond next to my location.
Your new video raise few questions :
-you already said that coated braid could lay bad on the lake bed, but could it be the same with 0.50 mono then ?
-every time a new rig is described on a article, the common advantage of this is rig is, most of the time, a D on the hook (like D rig, your extended D rig with blowback tube). That's why I'm always using Slip D Rig, which seems to me the most versatile rig (bottom bait, snowman, pop-up etc), very robust, but you never mentioned this rig in particular. It seems that combine extended D with low balance next to the curve of the hook (like you said around 17.30) Do you think it worth it ?
Best,
Joseph
Hi Joseph,
Coated braid only sits badly on the bottom if you strip some of the coating off. If you leave the coating in place it behaves the same as the mono but costs £££’s for no additional benefit.
The slip D is a nice rig and I use it sometimes. We used it in this video: th-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/w-d-xo.html
The slip D is tied with a supple braid. I use 25lbs Armourlink. It’s good for a bait boat, row boat or solid PVA bag or for casting short range with a PVA mesh bag but I wouldn’t try to cast it a long way (tangle risk). The problem with the Slip D is that you can’t change the hook quickly and the material is expensive. Unless you are a hook sharpening pro then you should be changing your hooks very frequently. Every cast at my lake! This becomes very expensive in hooklink and hooks (one rig per cast!).
I recommend the bombproof mono D rig because it’s quick and easy to tie and mono is very cheap. I recommend the blowback multi rig because you only have to change the hook.
Another Amazing video Matt, Is Always a pleasure watching you. Thanks a lot for Sharing ❤
Wonderful to hear mate 🙏
The loop you tie is the Perfection loop I believe....I have been using this rig for many years...IQ2 at 0.47mm....deadly
Love watching your videos Matt keep up the good work mate
Mat thank-you for this excellent video it's absolutely awesome 10/10 great channel.
Brilliant to hear mate!
As always great pleasure to watch your work 👌👍
Really nice to hear that Michael 👍
Hi Matthew, nice to see that's nearly the same rig that I use in big rivers. I use it with size 2 chod hooks, the only difference is that I use no tube, but I wrap the mono further in opposite of the barb. Often I have a break of the tube, that means that I must bind a new rig, when you bind it like I do, I have no more problems. What do you think?
Hi there, for me this rig as with all mono rigs, is ‘disposable’ ie one rig per cast in certain situations. The blow back tube can normally be re-used multiple times but not if you’re using micro barbed hooks. I use barbless size 6 on the river and elsewhere so they last me multiple captures. The reason why I prefer a blow back tube to whipping down the shank is that it’s easier and quicker but your way works too 👍
Must admit that I’ve tried every looklink material going during the past 30 years. Started out with mono in the 80’s, did the whole snakebite and mantis thing, fluorocarbon, combinations of both - then came full circle back to mono. When I’m lying on my bed in the dead of night I just KNOW that a mono set- up is definitely presenting ok. Today, I’ve chucked out the lot and am just using Amnesia. And I’ve caught all my biggest on it. I honest don’t think hooklink material makes a blind bit of difference- won’t be going back to anything more complicated
Hi Matthew what size line would you recommend for a size 8 brilliant video as always you're the most informative carp channel on TH-cam 😊
Thanks 😊 0.40 to 0.45 should work. Just be careful to make the blob as large as you can.
I love this rig, but can never push myself to try it. The lack of flex at hook end bothers me. Despite knowing it’s very effective by all accounts. I think if the fish approaches somewhere toward the front it’s arguably one of the most efficient rigs. My concern is if a fish approach’s from the rear so hook eye side it maybe is easier to get done. No evidence whatsoever on this from me, just how it seems
One of the reasons why I use 0.50 mono is that it’s semi stiff. Not very stiff. Stiff enough to make it tangle proof but supple enough to react naturally when it’s sucked in. When they try to blow it out the semi stiff material means it’s less likely to exit straight which leads to more hookups.
Makes sense mate, I trust you find it effective. I’ll make the leap from one day.
Are most fished nailed centre bottom lip matt
@@LeeSurman-zz5ym Is it always in the middle? No. Does it matter? No 😊
I’ve been using this rig for around 2 years but I use 30lb amnesia for the hook link
No nonsense, informative video. Thanks Matthew 👍
Thanks mate, appreciate it 👍
Brilliant thanks Matthew for the tips 🎉
Cheers mate 👍
Something i do with the loop is make it come off the sleeve at 90 degrees to stop the ring on the screw getting caught up...
I have used this rig with sweet corn and maggots the only thing I changed was using a micro rig swivel and a bit of baitfloss and it worked fine I haven’t use pop ups though…
Cool 👍 A micro rig swivel and bait floss is a great option for smaller baits.
Hi Matt, do this rig work whit chod claw hooks or only twister ? Thanks for all your vids, they are the best 🙏
Hi mate, yes sure if you’ve got some Nash Claws and you’d like to try this rig then it will absolutely work. The main reason I prefer the size 6 Twister is that the shank is longer so the blowback tube can act as an ejection indicator and the 0.50 mono is a nice match for the eye size. The size 6 chod claws have a larger eye so the 0.50 is a little bit loose but if you are careful when you blob the D and make it as large as you can, it should work fine. Just pull on the bait firmly to check the D is secure before actually fishing. All the best with it!
That was a really interesting video. It was good to hear your thought process for all the components and why u do what u do, I like to think I use a similar process to get to what rig I use
Good to hear mate 👍
I wonder a bit about the hooks, I normally fish tench and carps and I can use the same hook for months, the mouth on those fish are so soft, maybe I am deluding myself and I should change hooks more often 😀
Carp fishing is very different to coarse fishing. In carp fishing we are relying on the rig to hook the carp automatically. We are not sitting watching the rod tip and striking as you would do when ledgering. Carp can only hook themselves on a very sharp hook and if it’s not sharp enough they will get away with it countless times. In my experience as angler and lake owner, changing your hooks regularly should transform your results if not then there is something not quite right with your rig 😊
I am fishing this rig tied with 0,55mm Snag leader and chod claw size 4 like 3-4 years.
Why are you using the twister in such a small size? Isn't the gape a bit to small espacially with a bigger hookbait??
Do you think mine would work better? Do you have ever compared these two?
And also i am using a figure of 8 knot at the end. It's much faster and easier to tie. Also i use a 6 mil bore bead over the quick change swivle for a better movement
Hi, I fished the twisters and the claws side by side and I find no difference between the 2, they’re both great hooks, personal preference. I’ve been catching on size 6 twisters with 24mm bait for years, no issue with the gape.
Hi Matt, just wondering if you fish slack lines with your running rigs? As I understand you rely on the clutch to apply the hooking force, but is there anything to initially drive the hook in when the rig tightens if you don’t use a bowstring tight line?
I’ve been using running rigs in solid bags over the winter months and have had some good fish, but I’ve been using a mega tight line down to 3oz leads. Mainly due to fish noticing the line and potentially spooking them, I would like to give slack/er lines a go, but I just don’t have the confidence.
Hoping you can shed some light for me, thanks very much.
Jake
Hi Jake, 99% of my fishing over the last 15 years has been with running rigs. When I first started using them I fished them very slack (lines hanging limp from the tip slack!) Leads were 3.5oz inline set to give a tiny bump effect on the take and then convert into a running lead setup. This setup out-fished everything I knew up until that point and I never looked back. Nowadays I tend to fish tight or with a 15g backlead. I still slack-line at close quarters though. A free running ledger works because the carp doesn't realise anything’s wrong until it’s too late for them to do something about it. Even when they swim back towards me and there is no clutch effect, the weight of the line and a free running ledger is all you need to hold that hook in place. I know it’s a huge leap of faith (it was for me!) but you’ll get the same from anyone that fishes this way. I get plenty of messages about how well this works, sometimes it feels like cheating! Enjoy, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks very much for taking the time to reply, very informative. Thank you very much 🙏
Another great Video!!! just one Question would you fish a 21mm pellet with it? and sorry for my english ;-) Thank´s for that great work
I don’t fish with pellets because they break down quickly and they don’t work with bait screws. If you can work out a way to attach a big pellet to the D loop, I’m sure it will work but it’s not something I’d do.
I’m defo having a go at this
👍
What are your thoughts on the basic complicated rig from Steve renyard
I’ve been using my own version of the basic complicated for many years and two of the videos on the channel feature it (although we don’t call it that). The only real difference is that Mr. Renyard uses fluoro whereas I use mono or braid. If you like rig tying then the basic complicated is all you need.
Will this work with 0.4 and a size 8?
Yes mate it should do but you need to do a really nice job of blobbing the mono or it will pull through the eye on impact with the water (if you are using a large bait). Try it, test it. Then you’ll know whether the exact combination of materials that you have works 👍
nice video, as usual 👌 i've been told that fluorocarbon rigs, with out turned eye hooks, work better when they have more room to move around freely and easily so an anti tangle sleeve is actually counter productive .. what do you think about this?
TBH not something I worry about 😊
Interesting that you catch carp of all sizes with the 0.50mm line. We've been brought up to think finer lines for better presentation to fool wary fish. Maybe this comes from general pleasure fishing where we all started off.
Yes, I think that’s where it started. I was surprised myself how ‘multi purpose’ this rig is.
Hi I wont to setup your running rig with the nash components which I have most of it i also have the fox angled running rig set i was just wondering which would work better with tubing as one of the lakes I fish is tubing only many thanks again
Absolutely great work as always. I have a question about looping: wouldnt be bettere to use a ring swivel to allow the loop dropping better?
Hi mate, yes you can use a ring swivel at the hooklink end to create a pivot point but wherever you have a pivot, there’s an increased chance of tangling. I demonstrated the rig with a stiff connection because that’s the most robust (anti-tangle) solution and that was the point of the whole video. We didn't feature the lead system in this video, that video is coming out later this year. The lead system I use allows the rig to rotate and pivot when it’s fishing but in flight, everything is locked solid to reduce tangles. Here’s a quick overview of it I put on Instagram: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
@@matthewcollinsangler great, really great as always. Honestly never had tangles on ring swiwels but what u said, as always, have totally sense. Top, this week end ill be on the bank with it
Morning Matt, have you got a video of how to set up where you use the helicopter sleeve and run ring?
Not yet! We've just started filming it. I've done a quick overview on it on this post on instagram: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Looks pretty straight forward. What size Nash Scope Tray do you use small or large?
When I'm out fishing I use the small one, when I'm rig prepping at home, I use the big one (you don't need the magnetic bit).
Just tried the rig for the first time and last night i lost a big one, the hook came loose. So not my first choice, or it needs to be adjusted. Bigger hook or maybe a shrink tube @ or a Line aligner on the hook. I don't know why i lost it....
In my experience as angler and fishery owner, hook pulls are either caused by semi fixed rigs or blunt/damaged hooks. I’ve caught hundreds of carp on this rig and only lost a handful fishing with a new hook each time and a running lead. I’ve done a video on hook pulls if that’s of interest: th-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/w-d-xo.html. Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler It was a new size 6 hook like on youre vid, but anyway keep up youre great vids.Cheers !
1.30 in and Matthews talking about pulling himself off....
Played this on repeat a few times for a chuckle
Been watching a lot of your videos and thanks for the incredible work you are doing, I learn so much that it make my brain spin... One thing that wonders me is why not use a palomar knot at the svirwel end ?? it should stronger and also uses less material.... I just know you have a good reason, but can not figure out why.. I understand with a think monoline, but with braid ?? all the other fishers use a palomarknot, but not the carpanglers, they use a version of the clinch/bloodknot.. Why ??
Hi, thanks for the support. Okay, the short answer is because it isn't appropriate. The long answer is a lot more complicated but here goes!
In carp fishing we use braid for hooklinks and for mainline. If I’m using some braided hooklink and I wanted to tie it to a swivel directly then I could in theory use a palomar knot but I’d never choose to do that because it’s slower and difficult to do. The Palomar is great if you are tying to a swivel and the swivel isn't connected to anything but when I tie a hooklink to a swivel, the swivel would already be tied to the mainline or a leader so how am I going to tie the Palomar knot? I can’t just pass the swivel through the loop without passing the whole rod through. I could make the loop bigger and pass the rig through that loop before tightening down. It’s possible but not simple. It’s just easier and quicker to use a 5 turn uni knot or double uni knot. Carp fishing hooklink are rated at either 25 lbs or 35 lbs and in my tests I can deadlift an 8kg kettle bell with 35 lb Armourlink which is strong enough to bank a catfish of 135lbs so why would I need to use a different knot? It’s only hearsay that the Palomar knot would be stronger. It doesn't matter what the theory say, what matters to me is: is it strong enough for what I need and can I achieve that knot consistently?”
The other time we use braid is for mainline but we never use braid tied directly to the swivel. We’d always tie to a leader. That might be mono leader or a spliced loop leader. The palomar knot is not applicable for a mono leader and I’ve never even thought about trying to tie braided mainline to a lead free leader. I think you’d have a lot of trouble tightening it down because the braid won’t flow well over a woven material.
I’ve spent the last 15 years tying and testing knots. I use what works for me and is easy to do 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks, it all makes sense, I am comming from spinning with much thinner braided lines, which has a tendensy to cut itself when the tension gets to high, mostly when I have a hold on a rock or something else.. That is not really an issue in presenting a biat for a carp og Tench, there are a lot of test of knotstrengths on youtube, most find that the palomarknot is the strongest also the "stupid angler knot" should be very strong, but as I do not need to tow in containerships, I do not really need the extra strength.. 🤣
Anywhere I can watch/see/view that loop being made in thick mono again please?
Hi mate, yes, I have done a more complete how-to at the end of the video here:
th-cam.com/video/Rr4paU5B_r4/w-d-xo.html
It's more the top end........to the swivel? I can't get a tidy knot 🙄
@@markwebb8616 Ah right, I've shown how to tie the non slip mono loop knot in this video as well, see if it helps: th-cam.com/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/w-d-xo.html
I tied this rig up today and I used the palm test and sometimes in catches hold instantly and not at all
Does it matter on the size of blow back tube,I used the Nash 0.5 since it was all I had
Blow back tube size depends on the hook size you're using. I'd match a 0.50 blow back tube with a size 8 chod twister. It'll be a bit tricky to thread onto a size 6, doable just harder than the 0.75.
I wouldn't worry too much about the palm test. It's not an accurate representation of how a mono rig works underwater.
Great video very informative
Do you use this rig for your margin fishing?
Kind regards
Richard
Hi Richard, yes you can use it wherever you want to including in the margins.
Do you shorten your snood length or change lead to an inline?
Sorry so many questions just getting into carp fishing
@@richarddickinson7242 No I don’t change the hooklink length, I fish this rig 6’’ everywhere I go. If dropping from a bait boat, I use an inline running lead, if casting or placing rods with a rowing boat, I use a swivel running lead. Check out my other videos, plenty of straight forward advice and tutorials as you get into the sport 😊
Does sea salt harden baits out the bag then
@@LeeSurman-zz5ym Yes, it does, I go into it in detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/7Ji4xATrvQk/w-d-xo.html
Another question is this rig suitable for wafters? And would a blob of putty on the hook link effect the rig?
Hi there,
I talk about wafters here: th-cam.com/video/Rr4paU5B_r4/w-d-xo.html and I talk about putty here: th-cam.com/video/Rr4paU5B_r4/w-d-xo.html
@@matthewcollinsangler thank you
Danny Fairbrass Tigernut rig is very similar
Great rig 👍🏾
😀👍
Is this rig best fished running style or does it work on a lead clip set up?
You can use whatever lead setup you want. I don’t fish lead clips, I only fish and recommend running rigs, they are simpler, cheaper, harder to make unsafe and more effective: th-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps.
@@matthewcollinsanglerupdate I have used running inline set up with this rig and have landed every fish I hooked. Also have no used a lead clip since. Thanks for all your useful videos
@@samw6958 great to hear mate, thanks 😊
Will the nash chod claw hooks be ok?
Hi mate, if you prefer a beaked point then sure you can use the Nash claws but I’d use the chod claw version. Size 6 is all you need as these hooks are very strong and quite large. All my test fishing on this rig has been with the chod Twister because the shank is longer and if I tie a 4 turn knotless knot, it leaves a gap of a few mm between the top of the blowout tube and the knot. This acts as an indicator if I get done. If you use the claw, the shank is very short and you’ll lose this gap but it’s totally an option.
Combi rig for me
will this work with 0.60 fluorocarbon ? thanks
You’ll find the eye of a size 6 Nash chod Twister is a bit tight for 0.60 mono, that's why I choose 0.50 for a size 6. If you want to use 0.60 then you’ll have to step up to a size 4 chod Twister. The other option would be to use a size 6 Nash chod claw. Although they are still categorised as a size 6, these have a larger eye, a thicker wire gauge and a wider gape. They also have a shorter shank so you lose the gap that I have between the top of the blowout tube and the 4 wraps of the 4 turn knotless knot. Without this gap you’ll lose the bite indication (telling you if the carp are getting away with it). It’s not the end of the world but it's a useful feature of the rig as originally designed. Cheers, Matt.
it's the same as the tom Maker D rig pretty much
It is but Tom's illusion d is aimed at a wafter bait fished on a clear spot. Where Mathew's is designed for a bait straight out the bag I for 1 am going too give this rig a a good go this season as I like the anti tangle prospect but I will fish it a little longer in length
I just don’t like using mono that’s all. For the rest great video.
Can u cast this rig at distance im from Africa and the waters i fish r very large
Yes, absolutely, cast it as far as you want, it never tangles 👍
Don't Use these long bait screws people, they only have to turn in the carps mouth wrong and give them a nasty injury. Plus, if your fishing lakes with cats present, stick to coated braid, it's stronger.
Shutup you helmet
There is a bait on the screw.....
Absolute rubbish I've had big cats on mono and there mouths hasn't touched it but I've had cats on braided hook lengths and most fray and snap 5 mins into the scrap. And mat has cats in his lake and has tested this rig for over 2 years
It's a common misconception that braid (or coated braid) is more abrasion resistant than mono. Test it yourself.
Think on its a snag leader mono.
Your actively encouraging all the noddys to use sea fishing line and pull the head off every fish they catch, which is already a huge problem on commercials....
Your talking absolute nonsense m8 if he was using 40lb mainline I'd get your point. It's no different too using 25lb boom material on a Ronnie rig or stiff hinge.
@@LeeSurman-zz5ymI know, what on earth is he talking about
Hi, Matthew, you did very clear explanatory video. No dought Drig is one of the best bait presentations. Let me ask you why Himalayan salt? Is sea salt any good? Or it will distract fish from bait? Why salt is so attracted to carps?
Hi there, salt is an essential mineral for all living creatures including carp. It’s not naturally available in fresh water but the fish can find it in small quantities on the lakebed. Pre and post spawning will be the time when their salt requirements are at their highest. Female carp use salt to release their eggs and post spawning they'll need salt to replenish their system. You can use table salt or Himalayan salt, up to you, Himalayan salt includes a wide range of nutrients. It doesn’t distract fish from bait, it’s an attractor. Cheers, Matt
Hi Matthew, thanks again for another super video, clear and easy to follow (as usual). Best wishes Jim
He mate awesome video´s keep up the good work! I fish a lot on the France Rivers where i prefer claw hooks because of the stones... Is this rig also good with a claw or only a twister hook?
Hi there, I use the Nash chod twisters on the French rivers all the time. It’s a myth that beaked point hooks are better over gravel than a straight point, gravel damages all hook points. I use the chod claws with 0.60 mono for the mono hair rig because the eye is larger than the twisters. The shank of the claws is a bit small for the ‘deadly d’ rig for me.
Excellent video, I have often thought this with D rigs so have found this excellent and will give this a try 👍 leaving my conventional D’s for wafters 🍻
Silly question - How does this work with a pop up? Or is this primarily for a bottom bait?
My thought was that with a pop up, the hook would still lay flat?
Or is this purely for a clean bottom?
Thanks 👍
Hi there, you could if you wanted but it’s a stiff hooklink so it’d be a very low popup. I don’t bother with popups or wafters anymore, they don’t catch me more fish. The rig is designed and works great with bottom baits 😊 It’s all I need.
@@matthewcollinsangler Makes sense! Thank you for your reply, you are a legend!!
Hi Matt. Great video as always. One question; what are your thoughts on the mechanics of this rig being a very stiff rig when approached by the fish from different directions? I like a 360 rig like the Ronnie because of the ability to turn when approached by the carp from any direction. Cheers 🙂👍
Hi mate, I know that carp anglers across the land are obsessed with the Ronnie/Spinner rig but you just don’t need them IMO. Any rig that can easily spin in and easily spin out. Spinner rigs are known for random/poor quality hook holds and I for one would never use one. One of the reasons why I use 0.50 mono and not fluoro for this rig is that it’s semi stiff. Not very stiff. Stiff enough to make it tangle proof but supple enough to react naturally when it’s sucked in. When they try to blow it out, the semi stiff material means it’s less likely to exit straight which is what leads to hookups. I’ve been using this rig myself for two years and sharing it with tuition anglers at my lake and it’s been very successful wherever it’s used. If your hook is sharp, this rig works 💯 👍
Brilliant Matthew
Been using a d rig since restarted carping & have been plagued by d pulling out so will try upping line diameter
I do find short d suited to smaller 10 or 12 mm baits
I use similar knots to tie stiff links it never slips good knot for stiff and/or thick mono
Hi Matt. Going a bit off topic here but you said you could use any mainline you like 12lb/15lb. If using a much stronger hooklength than mainline could you not snap off much further up the line leaving the carp trailing long lengths of line? I know its common in carp fishing to have stronger hooklengths. Match fishing the other way round.
Hi mate, I understand that if you are used to coarse fishing this may seem completely backwards. In specimen carp fishing, it has to be this way around or we’d never be able to catch what we catch using regular gear. Imagine trying to cast 30lbs (0.50) monofilament mainline off massive reels to safely land carp because you need 25lb hooklink due to some rocks or mussels. Modern carp fishing wouldn't exist if this was the case.
Your point is totally valid though and our job is to make sure that the carp are safe if something bad does happen. There are 2 things I do to achieve that:
One, I only fish running rigs because they are the most effective and safest, and my running lead has a large plastic run ring that is designed to break if the lead gets trapped.
Two, I only use barbless hooks as these are the safest way of carp fishing IMO as the carp can easily get rid of the hook if it’s trailing a rig.
We’ve been using inline running rigs here at Beausoleil for years. We drain down every two years and the only time we see lead still on the line is when someone has used a semi fixed rig.
Totally agree Matt, there's no doubt carp really struggle with stiff mono rigs, it's all i use now, i did find that the tubing /blow back tubing could split so i now use hook beads, had to try a few different ones which wouldn't slip, and also use a Fox pop-up weight about two inches back from the hook. I normally use double bottom baits and like the idea of using mono to attach them
Good to hear the feedback mate 👍
Hi mathew great informative video ive just tried to tye this rig but only got some trilene big game fluorocarbon in 0.56 and using some bank tackle size 6 chod hooks but for the life of me I cant get the tag end back through the eye not sure if it would be worth buying some of the nash 0.50 and hope it will go through thanks
Hi mate, different hooks have different sized eyes. I like the Nash chod Twisters because the eye size is fairly generous. 0.56 is quite thick. You could try cutting the tag end of the mono at 45 degrees. That will help. If you aren't trying to cast to the moon then most anglers should be able to get away with 0.45 mono so that’s another option for the hook you have.
Can you use a ring swivel
I always love watching your videos, what inline set up do use with this rig? I know you have previously done a video on inline set ups but has anything changed since then?
Yes, I have developed another lead setup that I’ve been testing for a couple of years, we’ll be doing a full video on it but here’s a quick overview I’ve done on instagram:
instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Excellent helpful video as always matt!, Do you feel the need to steam/straighten the mono? Or do you prefer the natural curve that you get with it?
Hi mate, absolutely no need to steam this material. I just make the rig, pin them into my box and then clip them on (or pull them from the glug pot). That’s another reason why I don’t use fluoro as it’s a bugger for taking a set (that’s why you need to steam it).
As usual great content and insight into keeping things simple yet effective. Good work Matt thanks for sharing 👌😎
Thanks for the feedback mate 👍
Wow you just discover america
A rig I used for many years more so on hard bottom. Or light weed wafter bait.. I did have an issue on clay flying takes and big bow wave noticed the rig was sticking to the clay after this happened twice the give away noticed clay on hook and hook length. But excellent rig bomb proof
Been waiting for this one 🙂
Hope you enjoy it mate.
Instead of the blow back tube, can't you just whip up to the barb?
You can give it a go if you want but having watched 100's of anglers tie the knotless knot, you'll struggle to whip much further past the point of the hook IMO.
Would a slightly curved shank hook work? Probably right?
OK, I couldn't wait and tried it anyway. It looks really promising! I'm trying it later today.
Hi mate, I wouldn’t use any curved shank hook with this rig. You might catch a few but the effective gape is too narrow, I explain this in detail here: th-cam.com/video/0GRf-2Qf404/w-d-xo.html
What a great video. I know it’s annoying for you. But if you get time could you list every item from the leader all the way down the hook you use when using a running led system and then with this rig? All in Nash components I’d assume 👍
Always been a helicopter drop off led, but your explanations are going to convert me to a running rig set up. Many Thanks
Hi there, great to hear you’re going to give the running rigs a go, if you follow my videos, you know how big a fan of them I am 😀
You can find a list of all the components for this rig here:
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/matthewcollins/list/1PE0L1094AZQF?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d
We'll do a full video of the lead system but in the meantime, here's a quick overview I posted on Instagram: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Hope that helps,
Cheers, Matt
Thanks for the reply and will be ordering this up, do you ever find it slightly complicates casting as the lead can come back up the line as it’s not in a fixed position? That’s the only thing I can think of that annoyed me when using running rigs many years ago…
And also is it harder/ any tips on feeling the lead down with the running rig, going from the usual fixed lead clip system… so strange largely fishing for 20 odd years a certain way and then to listen to your videos and understand your logic to it all. Very well done.
@@ChristianD1992 Hi Christian, the secret to casting running rigs is to get the balance right between lead size and bait size. My go-to option is a 3 - 3.5oz lead with a 20 - 24mm bait and a narrow PVA stick (highly compressed, 3cm long). If the lead is too light, relative to the size of the bait/PVA stick, then the lead and the bait will tend to separate in the air. Once you’ve got the balance of the rig right, feathering the lead towards the end of the cast helps limit the separation, as will trapping the lead before it enters the water (always feel the lead down on a tight line). It also helps if the sleeve you use has a rigid stem to it as this will help to hold the lead by the swivel in flight. There is a trick I use to temporarily hold the lead next to the swivel but it’s not easy to explain in words. We will be releasing a full video on this at some point but I hope, for the time being, that gives you some insights into how to cast a running rig.
@@ChristianD1992 In terms of feeling the lead down with a running rig, there should be absolutely no difference to how you do this compared to a semi fixed rig. Make the cast (overcast rather than under), feather the lead to control the distance, trap the lead before it hits the water, raise the rod and feel the lead down on a tight line. If you struggle at first you can always cheat a bit and use some PVA tape to hold the lead by the swivel while you work on your technique. Best of luck, Matt.
What difference with iq2 drig ? Only hook style ,but same tie . This is wide gape iq blow back mono d rig 😂 Collins Rig 👍🏻
I tried the IQ D rig and I hated it so I came up with this. It works better and is easier to tie IMO 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler What did you dislike about it? I'd prefer it for a more stable d section than the silicone tube. Was thinking about mixing your rig and the iq d, trying a d rig with the whiping knot and a chod hook pattern
@@matthewcollinsangler you’ll tied iq on that twister ? I think it will look the same but different is in 0.50 is no possible to tie iq on that stiff becouse first knot on the shank will slip , and that stiffness is very very useful becouse soft D will always distorts . Why not stiff German ? Anyway I like new style and more if is tested and works . Thank you for that knowledge. 👍🏻
@@longjohnsilver9192 There is no difference in the stability of the D between the two rigs. The blowout tube holds the D very securely (if you match the hook to the blowout tube size correctly). I don’t like the IQ D rig because that whipping knot is way too fiddly to tie. I can tie my version in 1/3rd of the time. The IQ D is normally tied with a curve shank hook. I fished it a few times and every time the carp were able to successfully pick it up and spit it out. I got done, repeatedly. This is not something I’m guessing at, I know this because I used a ‘tell tale’ lead system. I did like some of the design aspects of the IQ D rig, so I kept those and changed what didn't work for me. My changes worked and this rig has been very successful for me and everyone I've shared it with over the last two years.
@@Bananalive2684 No, I didn't try the IQ D rig on the Twister as the shank is too short. The IQ D is normally tied with a curve shank hook. I fished it a few times and every time the carp were able to successfully pick it up and spit it out. I got done, repeatedly. I know this because I used a ‘tell tale’ lead system. Apart from the fact that the rig didn't work very well for me, I don’t like the IQ D rig because that whipping knot is way too fiddly to tie. I can tie my version in 1/3rd of the time. I did like some of the design aspects of the IQ D rig, so I kept those and changed what I didn't like. My changes worked and this rig has been very successful for me and everyone I've shared it with over the last two years. Glad you like the video 😊
Top fishing content this mate 👌🏻
That's great to hear mate, thanks.
@@matthewcollinsanglerno thank you mate for taking the time out to bring us great fishing content
Thankyou so much for sharing your hard earned knowledge....i always enjoy and always learn something.... BUT... dear matt....when you sit at a table do you sit on a "shair" or does smoke go up a "shimney"...?.... in that vein.... are you fishing over "shod" or CHod.... i know im going to hell for this but in an attempt to regain some credibility... my compliment to you is that all three of my rods currently have your "shock and run" rigs on....ive been using them since last spring when i watched your video and have found them very effective...thankyou for that.....tight lines and stay safe
Haha, my OH, camerawoman, producer and editor (she does it all really!) keeps telling me off for that !! I'll try harder 😜 So nice to hear you're a fan of the shock and rig 👍
Hi @matthewcollins surely we want our boilies to break down and after 24 hours should be a lot softer so they leak out the attraction? I've always thought cheap bait doesn't break down. I'm guessing the glug put a skin on it so if this is the case why do we glug them before throwing out the freebies. I know because videos tell us to. I'm now in two minds on what to do. Decisions, decisions 😂😂😂
Hmm, it’s not something I worry about TBH. Boilies don’t have to break down to be attractive. They leak attraction all the time. That’s why we use them. I want them to stay whole long enough for the carp to find them. I just use Scopex Squid straight out of the bag most of the time. If I need them to be harder because of the crayfish, then I salt cure them. If I need them to be more attractive because I’m fishing singles at a range I can’t bait up at, I glug them.
Great video Matt, but I am curious. I have always been shy of using thick hook links because of the idea you'll get fewer bites than a thin, supple braid if the carp feel it and eject it sooner. Match fishermen know this and will downsize their line and hooks to get more bites. I do understand the anti-tangle benefits, but in your opinion if these weren't an issue, would a thin supple line convert more bites into fish on the bank because they're less likely to eject it early?
Hi mate, the idea that thin lines get you more bites comes from coarse fishing and match angling. Specimen carp fishing is completely different. The fish are much larger and feed in a completely different manner so what works in coarse fishing has no relation to what works in carp fishing. It’s an absolute myth that carp feel the hooklink on their lips. If this was the case we’d never catch them. I’m a big fan of strong supple materials such as 25lbs Armourlink and I’ve caught loads of carp using it but you need to use it in the right situation. I’ve tried using supple rigs on large lakes and reservoirs but it’s a disaster. They tangle in flight and then get tangled by nuisance species. Totally inappropriate. This rig works because it stays tangle free and the carp find it difficult to eject (especially when you use a free running ledger). If your hook is sharp, this rig works 💯 👍
Great video ! Thanks Matt. Cheers.
I have just tied a few of these rigs after watching this video. I must say they work a treat on a lake where the rudd normally tangle and foul up the hair rigs. I shall use them a lot more.
Brilliant, good to hear, yeah, very anti tangle material this 👍
Just a question, my lake rules state no mainline over 20lb breaking strain and that all hook links and leaders have to be less breaking strain than the mainline breaking strain, have you got any recommendations?
Sure, my starting point would be to use your mainline for hooklink. If you choose something like the Nash Armourline in 15lbs (0.35) then you can use it for both, no problem. You might need to add an anti tangle sleeve to stiffen the hooklink near the swivel. For rigs, you don’t need to look any further than the mono hair. Watch this if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UeNiaTUIu8N_jnsB
If you want to use a mono D rig, then I’d watch this video: th-cam.com/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XkpytmNptAsFA5OK
Good morning im trying to tye this rig ive got some 0 .50mm mono and some size 5 nash chod twister hooks and for the life of me I can not get the mono for the d to go back through the eye ive even cut the mono with a point what am I doing wrong thanks
Hi Michael, I’m very surprised that you are struggling to do this. I’ve tied literally thousands of these rigs with size 6 chod Twister and the mono goes through easily with a straight cut. The only thing I can think of is that your scissors are blunt. You do need a good quality pair of carp fishing scissors to produce a clean cut in 0.50 mono.
Hi Matt. Great video as always. What diameter blow back tube do you use on the size 6 chod twister please? Thanks.
Hi mate, I use the 0.75 blow back tube. Full tackle list here: amzn.to/45yq4b9
I've tested 0.30mm mono with the size 7 chod twister. Worked absolutely well. Just to let you know. 🙂
👍
I can't get hold of the material you used for the hook link what's the best alternative?
Any 0.50 to 0.55 snag leader will work 👍
How can you say ‘you may use the latest anti tangle technology….’, ‘but there’s no guarantee your rigs not tangled…,’. Then propose a rig that’s 100% anti tangle proof???
I don't use any anti tangle tackle, the anti tangle properties come from the thickness of the mono and the rig design.
Obviously don’t think thick line is and I love the term , is ‘anti tangle technology’! Or sleeves! But hay ho!
👍🏻nice simple rig.10 of each please.🤔
No problem 😀👍
Hi Matt. I struggle to pass a 0.4 line twice back through the eye so how do you do it 3 times with a 0.5 ?
I'm guessing it's the hook but I use the claw in a 4 and just about get it through twice
Ah I just use sharp scissors to make a nice clean cut. If your scissors are blunt, this might be the trouble. The Nash claw comes in two eye styles, standard (in-turned eye) and chod style (out-turned eye). The chod style has a much larger eye so maybe you are trying to use an in-turned eye hook (which is why you are struggling). I can make this rig with a size 6 Nash chod Claw and 0.60 no trouble at all. Hope that helps!
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt. Your comments made sense. Appreciate the response 👍
Cut your line with a blade, as Matt says scissors can blunt the line
Hello,
I normal fish with size 4. Is that also possible , or is the hole to big for the blob ?
I use 20 mm boilie, and wanne begin with 30 mm dumbell. Because of the huge amount of bream. They take the 20mm already on the water i fish. But i ask myself if i use 20-30 mm bait. Doesn't the hook need to be bigger than the hook 6 u use. That the bait doesn't mask the hook.
Also i use inline lead of pb. Never did you had a tangle with the mainline ? I use normally boom from korda, for tangles. Don't know if i can combine it.
Sorry for my english. I speak dutch. Thanks man. Love your video's.
Hi,
I’ve caught lots of carp on this rig with a size 6 chod twister and 24mm baits (I salt cure mine to make them bream/cray resistant). This rig would work fine for 20x30mm dumbbell with a size 6 chod twister, you don’t need to use a size 4 with such big baits. If you go up to a size 4, I’d be worried about the blob on the 0.50 mono. If you want to use a size 4, use 0.60mono.
Korda boom is very stiff and I wouldn’t use it for this rig. One of the reasons why I use regular 0.50 mono is that it’s semi stiff. Not very stiff. Stiff enough to make it tangle proof but supple enough to react naturally when it’s sucked in.
Hope that helps 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks matthew, i will try your set up the same with a chod 6 twister.
I also have a lot of hooks, curve in stock. Does the D rig also works with curve hooks ? (Just for info)I see other people work with curve hooks also. Is there a reason it has to be a chod hook with the eye to the outside ? Thanks
@@Kegels001 I know curved hooks are very popular but I don't use them. They don't partner well with mono because it kicks the hook over at an aggressive angle which creates a very narrow gape which is the last thing I want. I talk about this in this video: th-cam.com/video/0GRf-2Qf404/w-d-xo.html
@@matthewcollinsanglerok, i understand. Thanks so much. appreciate everything you do.
Hello Matthew,
In made some rigs and tryed it today. Same set up as you. With my second cast, my rig was already tangled. Do you have an idea why ? I will try to upload the photo.
Edit: i tryed to upload the photo's. But it does not work. 😢
Love your vids mate class channel
Great to hear mate!