Free fast 1-3 day shipping, no sales tax outside Florida, tips that answers FAQ's and phone tech support when purchasing from us. We also quality check our kits before shipping. Good luck calling Amazon if you have a technical question or defective tools or inserts. Not a problem when purchasing from us. Kit that has JB Weld and Thread Locker linked here: @t Lowest cost kit with 2 inserts linked here: @t
Nice overview of time-sert vs helicoil Heli-coil may be able to do this but one benefit for the time-sert is you can you can drill,tap, and put the insert on one side of a hole and have the thread work from the other side of the hole. My personal example - stripped threads on a brake caliper bolt hole but there was not enough room on the side where the bolt threads in to drill and tap. I drilled, tapped and put the insert in from the outside and the bolt was able to thread from the inside (other side) I spoke to time-sert before I did it and they said actually that would be a stronger fit because threading the bolt form the other side of the insert will actually pull the insert tighter.
Time Sert kits for aluminum oil pan thread repair for drain plugs start at around a $100 for 12mm and go up depending on the size. It's true you can replace the oil pan. On many cars the oil pan itself could be a couple of hundred dollars and you'd still have aluminum threads which are much weaker than Time Sert's steel threaded inserts. Also, labor for changing an oil pan varies greatly. Could be an hour or could up to 14-15 hours if it's a AWD (All Wheel Drive). Also the problem with Time Sert's is they may not stay in especially when taking the drain plug out the next time after the repair. Time Sert is solid, so it doesn't share the same problem of leaks that can occur with the Helicoil thin coil of wire. Here's a link to the popular size for oil pans which is the M14x1.5 which is used on many Chrysler's Honda's and VW's. wiseautotools.com/time-sert-1415c-aluminum-oil-pan-drain-thread-repair-m14x1-5/
I fixed an old VM 2.4 diesel rocker shaft and rocker cover stud on a few heads by drilling out the hole to a larger size bolt and locktighting it in which I had drilled and tapped out with the correct size to take a new stud. Good as new, cost hardly a thing and I could repair heads no one else could because they only used a Helicoil which never lasted. Only last year I saved a guy have to spend a fortune who made a major screw up on a Range rovers belt tensioner, I even did the job without having to strip the vehicle. Always think about a solution before you buy new parts!
Interesting product. I used Helicoils for years in industrial applications where the fasteners had to be removed and reinstalled very frequently into 6061 alloy molds. Never had any real problems with Helicoils moving or backing out, or wearing out. Sure, they did fail periodically, but consider that the fasteners were being cycled so regularly we would wear out tapped threads just the same. I have probably installed in excess of 5000 Helicoils, so I have a bit of experience. That said, Time Sert looks like a really good idea, especially for larger, higher torque applications.
Important: On the Calvan 38900, we now have the tap clip for the tap's upper groove! This eliminates the possibility of screwing the tap too far and having the tap fall into the cylinder. This is NOT included in the kit and we are the only ones that have it available when purchasing the Calvan 38900 kit. We it available with premium thread locker that is oil resistant and permanent packaged together, it's part number is 38900-CS1. See the link. wiseautotools.com/38900-cs1-266-thread-lock-e-clip-combo-for-38900-kit/
No one can legitimately say that a thin coil of wire is stronger than a solid bushing type insert. Is Helicoil cheaper? Yes. Better? No. That's why the engineers at GM have worked with Time Sert to have head bolt thread repair kits designed and NOT Helicoil. Toyota has said that only Time Sert is to be used for their warranty repairs on Camry and Rav4's. Anyone saying Helicoil is better, just simply does not know, or has just been lucky so far. Worse yet are those that haven't used either but want to argue! Go figure.
They could. It completely depends on the wire and bushing material. One being wire and one being a bush has absolutely nothing to do with either ones overall strength and the helicoil cant flex when it's in use. Time Serts are a better repair I agree mostly because of the quality of the kit they come in.
Yes I agree that Time shirts are far superior than a helicoil. I purchased a Ford F-150 because of a spark plug blowout issue, I paid him $300 for the truck and there was not anything else wrong with the truck. It actually just had a $3300 transmission rebuild and $1800 in brakes and rotors all the way around. But anyways I used the Time sert kit (because that is all we use in our shop) and fixed it right there in his driveway in less than 30 minutes and it was running perfect. Firestone told him it would be $4,200 to fix it. Its been running fine for years now with no issues and has never popped out. I have a buddy who has the same exact truck as me and is a very cheap tightwad. He has had six of his eight spark plugs pop out and I've been telling him for years don't use a helicoil! And he is so cheap that he insist on using helicoils and they keep popping out so he has also repaired the ones that have already been repaired. So now he came up with the idea to just put helicoils in the other two to prevent them from coming out. I told him he is the stupidest person I've ever met why not just fix it the right way the first time and never have to deal with it again? Some people's kids.
I want to use the Sav-A-Thread insert product on an aluminum oil pan. The "roll lock" feature has me wondering if it actually "rolls" the very tip end of the new replacement tube inside the oil pan, or if it just swells the last two threads outward? This makes a difference if the end of the insert goes in beyond the depth of the threads and protrudes into the cavity inside the oil pan. That could allow the turning out of the insert during subsequent oil changes, even though I planned on using Red thread locker on the outside of the thread insert, instead of gray RTV, before screwing it in to keep it locked in place. I planned to get the 14mm X 1.25 size, so as to accommodate the OEM oil plug when finished. I just did the oil change and used one of those plugs with the butterfly tap inside the oil pan and a wide flat head and rubber washer on the outside. When I eventually take that out to do the insert I will have the "butterfly" tap floating around inside the bottom of the oil pan unless I can devise some sort of "snake" magnet to pull it back out through the drain hole. I don't think it will hurt anything if I can't get it out though. I may can just find a strong enough magnet to glue to the outside of the aluminum oil pan. That will no only keep the tap from moving around, but will also gather any other steel shavings or debris. I could find a small vacuum tube and pull out the collection of filings and debris before adding new oil.
***** Sorry about the slow response, we've just moved and were a bit overwhelmed. First off, we recommend Time Sert, not Save A Thred. We have way too many customers call us after using Sav A Thread products looking for a correct fix after their first attempt has failed (with Save A Thred). The pan may need to be removed to get the butterfly nut out that you've mentioned. Be sure to take on this project with that in mind and allow enough time if necessary. I would NOT leave the butterfly nut in the pan. It won't get drawn up into the pick-up screen but could damage it, which would potentially allow large pieces inside. Remember a magnet is only going to attract steel, not aluminum. We recommend just flushing by pouring oil in the engine as if you were filling it, but leave the drain plug out until there's no more debris. The Time Sert system cold rolls the bottom of the insert locking it into place. We have the M14x1.5 kit for aluminum drain pans. You would just need to pick up an M14x1.5 drain plug if using our kit. The 1.25 has finer threads (closer together) so it would obviously not work. Good Luck.
used helicoil M6 diy kit on ally motorcycle cylinder head, to my horror the insert came out attached to the bolt the next time i loosened it, maybe shoulda used timesert on ally head which is not much harder than cheese
Did u put high temp lock tite on the time sert? On the softer metals many many people recommend a thread locker on the time sert even though the directions doesn't mention using lock tite but I sure do recommend that.
Great video. Just wondering helicoil it time sert at what tourqe can hold? I have head cylinder bolts stripped and I am plan to use helicoil but I am afraid will not hold the high tourqe value. 85ft ib ?or more? Thanks
do they have a smaller home kit for timesert? thats the helicoil advantage. if im tryin to fix an oil pan at home, at the price of a timesert, i could just replace the entire oil pan. they should make a smaller kit for home garage tinkerers
I noticed that the Time sert inserts are carbon steel, as opposed to stainless. I know that means they are stronger, but what about the corrosion factor? Would seem that the Helicoils will last forever, but be weaker..as opposed to the carbon steel ones being stronger, but over time rusting and becoming weaker as time goes on.
Scott Amoroso Thanks for the question. Stainless steel inserts are available for the Time Sert kits. Many times there's little exposure to elements that would promote rust. In the automotive field, stainless steel inserts can be used when there’s a high exposure to elements that cause oxidation (corrosion/rust) like for brake caliper threads which are exposed to metallic brake dust. In the medical field, stainless steel inserts are used also. I've got more FAQ's covered at the following link. www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2013/04/time-sert-and-big-sert-thread-repair-kits-faqs/
Use a thread locking compound if youre worried about the bolt seizing. the use of thread lock compound isnt just for locking the bolt, it also aids in corrosion/rust protection and lubes the bolt for proper torque specs.
Is there a timesert kit for a stripped rear subframe mounting hole for a 2010 MB E350? The rear subframe bolt is quite long...M12x1.5x130mm long (excl head cap and 5mm washer). 80mm of the 130mm bolt is threaded. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks Dennis, i was hesitating and you solve my doubts about these brands, i´m already working on a BMW with damage in treads on engine block, with your advice now i know what will i do, unvaluable help, questions, do you´ve catalog of Time sert?, is Würth right?
I need to repair a aluminum caliper banjo bolt hole threads. What would you recommend helicoil or timesert? Do you recommend red loctite on the outer threads of the insert?
Hi my v10 Excursion have never blow out a spark and I always have a feeling that it will blow out at some point . I change the plugs once every 6 months to be in the safe side . Should I get the kit and do the heads or not? Thanks...
Mohanned AL-Deen I wouldn't be overly concerned. I would however, make sure the plugs are tight and then leave it alone. It's not normal to change plugs every six months. That in itself can cause excessive wear on the aluminum threads than normal. But, if you still can't sleep at night, we'd be happy to sell you a kit. Good Luck.
+Hillman Wents Not sure what happened your comment calling me an idiot. But Wow ok. Someone's having a bad day. You're certainly entitled to your opinion. I'm a master automotive tech and sell auto tools on two automotive tool websites (since 2005). So yeah, you could say that my focus is on auto repairs. I speak with people all the time that've used Helicoil repairs that have failed and they need a solution. BTW my phone number is 800-524-9783 x251 if anyone needs assistance in getting the best kit. And here's a link to a video I did awhile back using a Time Sert oversize kit to repair a failed HeliCoil repair. th-cam.com/video/TS3icrhlhbU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info. What the difference in price (between the two?) I need to rethread a few stripped thread in non critical points of a motorcycle so while I might want to use the more expensive and better Time-Sert in critical spots, I wouldn't want to go for the overkill when the job could be done with less money (for instance to hold plastics covers and such. Thanks again!
No, have not decided yet that was why I was asking ;) Yet you could have provided an insight responding to my main question: what's the difference in price between the two... does one option cost 2x, 3x... 10x the other? Not asking for an accurate amount, an educated guesstimate, ball parked figure would suffice. I certainly lean towards using the product that makes the most sense from both an economical as well practical point of view. I must have not explained myself well enough in my previous post as I am most definitely not planning to use helicoil or timesert to thread directly into a plastic part... Instead I was referring to the fact that I would use it to thread into something like a frame bolt (metal) whose only function is that of holding a side fairing, a cowling, or other similar item (plastic) which is not a structural component of the bile nor a part of the engine block and has no critical function, like securing an engine part (spark plug or cylinder head) holding together the frame, securing the disk rotor to the wheel and other such critical function. The more economic re-threading solution would be used only in parts that are not subjected to any heavy forces which could shear, pull, bend, etc a bolt and where using a more expensive product would be more an overkill than a necessity. I hope the above clarified my intent and the reasons why I asked. Thanks.
Thanks for commenting. Like most things, you pay more for higher quality, so yes, Time Sert is definitely more. Not sure what percentage. You can easily Google the brands and size you want to compare prices on. Just remember you are somewhat comparing oranges to apples.
+s50201 Maybe OK for certain applications. I don't see how they would work in anything other than flush mount surfaces. Time Sert can be installed in cases where the threads don't start at the very top of the hole. Also, Time Sert is held in by the bottom of the insert being cold rolled with a driver, finishing the threads and expanding it which holds it from the bottom. Thread lock sealer can also be used which makes it a leak proof repair. Here's a link for more info. blog.wiseautotools.com/time-sert-or-heli-coil/
WiseAutoTools Thx for your thoughts. TH-cam vid for Keenserts say you adjust the thread start height /w a chamfer, so maybe that's not the biggest deal (appears the kit has a tool to drive the spikes in as well). Thread lock can be used regardless of the solution, so I'd think that's an equal factor among all 3 products.
+s50201 I don't see Keenserts starting 3 or 4 inches down in a hole like is needed on many head bolt thread repairs, Thread lock can be used on threads but may not seal the channels the Keenserts pins go down in. I'm sure when you look a little further, you'll see that there are no specific Keensert kits for automotive repairs Ford spark plug thread repair, aluminum oil pan thread repair, Toyota or Northstar head bolt thread repair etc. All have specific challenges to insure a professional quality repair. Like for Ford spark plug threads a taper seat is needed. The threads start about 5-6 inches down a well. If a repair has been done by Helicoil or some other competitive brand and failed, an over-size repair insert is needed. For Toyota, GM, Honda head bolt thread repairs, the threads start down several inches inside the bolt hole. So longer tooling is needed and the ability to secure the inserts. Keenserts method will not reach. Keensert cannot chamfer a hole several inches down. Even if it could the pin tool would not reach. Thanks for the conversation though. Have a great weekend.
WiseAutoTools Points taken -I've never used Keeinsert myself, so it's good to get ppl like you's thoughts. Certainly in high-pressure applications I'd think the spikes would be cause for leak, but then again it could not be depending on how tight the actual friction fit of those spikes are. In any case, it sounds like Timeserts are a good candidate all around. I'll give'em a shot next time.
Andrew Zimmern Thanks for the comment. Time Sert has solid steel sleeve type inserts as opposed to a Helicoil thin coil of wire. So it should be easy to understand that the Time Sert is better for this reason alone. Factor in the fact that the Time Sert inserts are locked in from the bottom when the installation driver cold rolls the bottom threads as opposed to Heicoils only being held in by spring action, Time Sert is obviously better. Here's more info - www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2012/04/time-sert-vs-heli-coil-thread-repair-kits-which-one-is-better/
Our phone number is 800-524-9783 x251 if anyone needs assistance in getting the best kit for their application. And here's a link to a video I did awhile back using a Time Sert 5600 oversize kit to repair a failed HeliCoil repair. th-cam.com/video/TS3icrhlhbU/w-d-xo.html
We've got the 38900-1 starting at 179.99 wiseautotools.com/calvan-38900-1-ford-spark-plug-thread-repair-kit-w-one-insert/ Time Sert offered as well. Call for help with application and what's the best kit for your vehicle. 800-734-8665 x251.
Just complete this operation, it took 5 hours The drill and tap is not to be rushed, , and now I have it ready to fit new injectors that will hold , amazeing though how the engineering firm that put a helicoil in said that will hold, it of course blew out, so it’s a minefield of total imbeciles out there who claim they can fix your vehical, lucky for me I seen the workmanship of the repair man at hand and said fuck off you clown , you’ll end up wrecking the head
I'd say worth it even if only using a kit once. Better to do it once and not have a failure and have to to the same job again. wiseautotools.com/brands/Time%252dSert.html
The Calvan 38900-8 works for many applications for first time repairs or repairs after a parts store kit has failed. It has long tooling and a guide for the reamer and tap. wiseautotools.com/calvan-38900-8-ford-4-6-5-4-6-8-spark-plug-port-repair-kit-w-8-inserts/
blacktiger955i Ok Ok funny... Guys I've worked with always pronounced it Heeli-coil, like Helium. But however you want to pronounce Heli-Coil, if it fails you'll likely say Aw HAIL naw... :(
blacktiger955i I've turned a few wrenches in my time, earned a two year certificate in machining and worked at two of the largest Machine Shop companies in the nation before age 20. I've done a bit of mechanic work in the 35 years since as well. In all that time I have never until today heard it pronounced any other way than "Heeli-coil" like the heel of a shoe. Regardless of how it is spelled, I think most people would laugh at someone who asked for a Heli-Coil pronouncing it like the word helicopter. I doubt they would even understand what you were asking for at first.
I am an old Grandpa now, but I cut my teeth on tools and worked as a machinist with two very large machining companies. I've heard many very knowledgeable people in machining and mechanics pronounce the word countless times and have always heard it pronounced with the long e sound as in "heel". So while my experience of hearing and saying the word my not be proof, I would have to say you are the first person I've ever even heard suggest that it is pronounced the same as the word helicopter.
Free fast 1-3 day shipping, no sales tax outside Florida, tips that answers FAQ's and phone tech support when purchasing from us. We also quality check our kits before shipping. Good luck calling Amazon if you have a technical question or defective tools or inserts. Not a problem when purchasing from us. Kit that has JB Weld and Thread Locker linked here: @t Lowest cost kit with 2 inserts linked here: @t
Nice overview of time-sert vs helicoil
Heli-coil may be able to do this but one benefit for the time-sert is you can you can drill,tap, and put the insert on one side of a hole and have the thread work from the other side of the hole. My personal example - stripped threads on a brake caliper bolt hole but there was not enough room on the side where the bolt threads in to drill and tap.
I drilled, tapped and put the insert in from the outside and the bolt was able to thread from the inside (other side)
I spoke to time-sert before I did it and they said actually that would be a stronger fit because threading the bolt form the other side of the insert will actually pull the insert tighter.
*Time sert may be better but they are undoubtedly WAAAAAAY overpriced*
I worked at a machine shop and every company we made things for the engineers specified time sert and rejected heli coil repairs.
Time Sert kits for aluminum oil pan thread repair for drain plugs start at around a $100 for 12mm and go up depending on the size. It's true you can replace the oil pan. On many cars the oil pan itself could be a couple of hundred dollars and you'd still have aluminum threads which are much weaker than Time Sert's steel threaded inserts. Also, labor for changing an oil pan varies greatly. Could be an hour or could up to 14-15 hours if it's a AWD (All Wheel Drive). Also the problem with Time Sert's is they may not stay in especially when taking the drain plug out the next time after the repair. Time Sert is solid, so it doesn't share the same problem of leaks that can occur with the Helicoil thin coil of wire. Here's a link to the popular size for oil pans which is the M14x1.5 which is used on many Chrysler's Honda's and VW's. wiseautotools.com/time-sert-1415c-aluminum-oil-pan-drain-thread-repair-m14x1-5/
I fixed an old VM 2.4 diesel rocker shaft and rocker cover stud on a few heads by drilling out the hole to a larger size bolt and locktighting it in which I had drilled and tapped out with the correct size to take a new stud.
Good as new, cost hardly a thing and I could repair heads no one else could because they only used a Helicoil which never lasted.
Only last year I saved a guy have to spend a fortune who made a major screw up on a Range rovers belt tensioner, I even did the job without having to strip the vehicle. Always think about a solution before you buy new parts!
Interesting product. I used Helicoils for years in industrial applications where the fasteners had to be removed and reinstalled very frequently into 6061 alloy molds. Never had any real problems with Helicoils moving or backing out, or wearing out. Sure, they did fail periodically, but consider that the fasteners were being cycled so regularly we would wear out tapped threads just the same. I have probably installed in excess of 5000 Helicoils, so I have a bit of experience. That said, Time Sert looks like a really good idea, especially for larger, higher torque applications.
Important: On the Calvan 38900, we now have the tap clip for the tap's upper groove! This eliminates the possibility of screwing the tap too far and having the tap fall into the cylinder. This is NOT included in the kit and we are the only ones that have it available when purchasing the Calvan 38900 kit. We it available with premium thread locker that is oil resistant and permanent packaged together, it's part number is 38900-CS1. See the link. wiseautotools.com/38900-cs1-266-thread-lock-e-clip-combo-for-38900-kit/
No one can legitimately say that a thin coil of wire is stronger than a solid bushing type insert. Is Helicoil cheaper? Yes. Better? No. That's why the engineers at GM have worked with Time Sert to have head bolt thread repair kits designed and NOT Helicoil. Toyota has said that only Time Sert is to be used for their warranty repairs on Camry and Rav4's. Anyone saying Helicoil is better, just simply does not know, or has just been lucky so far. Worse yet are those that haven't used either but want to argue! Go figure.
They could. It completely depends on the wire and bushing material. One being wire and one being a bush has absolutely nothing to do with either ones overall strength and the helicoil cant flex when it's in use.
Time Serts are a better repair I agree mostly because of the quality of the kit they come in.
Yes I agree that Time shirts are far superior than a helicoil. I purchased a Ford F-150 because of a spark plug blowout issue, I paid him $300 for the truck and there was not anything else wrong with the truck. It actually just had a $3300 transmission rebuild and $1800 in brakes and rotors all the way around. But anyways I used the Time sert kit (because that is all we use in our shop) and fixed it right there in his driveway in less than 30 minutes and it was running perfect. Firestone told him it would be $4,200 to fix it. Its been running fine for years now with no issues and has never popped out. I have a buddy who has the same exact truck as me and is a very cheap tightwad. He has had six of his eight spark plugs pop out and I've been telling him for years don't use a helicoil! And he is so cheap that he insist on using helicoils and they keep popping out so he has also repaired the ones that have already been repaired. So now he came up with the idea to just put helicoils in the other two to prevent them from coming out. I told him he is the stupidest person I've ever met why not just fix it the right way the first time and never have to deal with it again? Some people's kids.
Very professional video sir. You will be hard pressed to find a better product. Time serts get the job done.
Thanks, Timothy.
I want to use the Sav-A-Thread insert product on an aluminum oil pan. The "roll lock" feature has me wondering if it actually "rolls" the very tip end of the new replacement tube inside the oil pan, or if it just swells the last two threads outward? This makes a difference if the end of the insert goes in beyond the depth of the threads and protrudes into the cavity inside the oil pan. That could allow the turning out of the insert during subsequent oil changes, even though I planned on using Red thread locker on the outside of the thread insert, instead of gray RTV, before screwing it in to keep it locked in place. I planned to get the 14mm X 1.25 size, so as to accommodate the OEM oil plug when finished. I just did the oil change and used one of those plugs with the butterfly tap inside the oil pan and a wide flat head and rubber washer on the outside. When I eventually take that out to do the insert I will have the "butterfly" tap floating around inside the bottom of the oil pan unless I can devise some sort of "snake" magnet to pull it back out through the drain hole. I don't think it will hurt anything if I can't get it out though. I may can just find a strong enough magnet to glue to the outside of the aluminum oil pan. That will no only keep the tap from moving around, but will also gather any other steel shavings or debris. I could find a small vacuum tube and pull out the collection of filings and debris before adding new oil.
***** Sorry about the slow response, we've just moved and were a bit overwhelmed. First off, we recommend Time Sert, not Save A Thred. We have way too many customers call us after using Sav A Thread products looking for a correct fix after their first attempt has failed (with Save A Thred). The pan may need to be removed to get the butterfly nut out that you've mentioned. Be sure to take on this project with that in mind and allow enough time if necessary. I would NOT leave the butterfly nut in the pan. It won't get drawn up into the pick-up screen but could damage it, which would potentially allow large pieces inside. Remember a magnet is only going to attract steel, not aluminum. We recommend just flushing by pouring oil in the engine as if you were filling it, but leave the drain plug out until there's no more debris. The Time Sert system cold rolls the bottom of the insert locking it into place. We have the M14x1.5 kit for aluminum drain pans. You would just need to pick up an M14x1.5 drain plug if using our kit. The 1.25 has finer threads (closer together) so it would obviously not work. Good Luck.
What about Cal-van?
used helicoil M6 diy kit on ally motorcycle cylinder head, to my horror the insert came out attached to the bolt the next time i loosened it, maybe shoulda used timesert on ally head which is not much harder than cheese
Did u put high temp lock tite on the time sert? On the softer metals many many people recommend a thread locker on the time sert even though the directions doesn't mention using lock tite but I sure do recommend that.
Great video. Just wondering helicoil it time sert at what tourqe can hold?
I have head cylinder bolts stripped and I am plan to use helicoil but I am afraid will not hold the high tourqe value. 85ft ib ?or more?
Thanks
do they have a smaller home kit for timesert? thats the helicoil advantage. if im tryin to fix an oil pan at home, at the price of a timesert, i could just replace the entire oil pan. they should make a smaller kit for home garage tinkerers
I noticed that the Time sert inserts are carbon steel, as opposed to stainless. I know that means they are stronger, but what about the corrosion factor? Would seem that the Helicoils will last forever, but be weaker..as opposed to the carbon steel ones being stronger, but over time rusting and becoming weaker as time goes on.
Scott Amoroso Thanks for the question. Stainless steel inserts are available for the Time Sert kits. Many times there's little exposure to elements that would promote rust. In the automotive field, stainless steel inserts can be used when there’s a high exposure to elements that cause oxidation (corrosion/rust) like for brake caliper threads which are exposed to metallic brake dust. In the medical field, stainless steel inserts are used also. I've got more FAQ's covered at the following link. www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2013/04/time-sert-and-big-sert-thread-repair-kits-faqs/
Use a thread locking compound if youre worried about the bolt seizing. the use of thread lock compound isnt just for locking the bolt, it also aids in corrosion/rust protection and lubes the bolt for proper torque specs.
Is there a timesert kit for a stripped rear subframe mounting hole for a 2010 MB E350? The rear subframe bolt is quite long...M12x1.5x130mm long (excl head cap and 5mm washer). 80mm of the 130mm bolt is threaded. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Unfortunately no. 30mm would be the longest.
We ship to Canada.
Thanks Dennis, i was hesitating and you solve my doubts about these brands, i´m already working on a BMW with damage in treads on engine block, with your advice now i know what will i do, unvaluable help, questions, do you´ve catalog of Time sert?, is Würth right?
I need to repair a aluminum caliper banjo bolt hole threads. What would you recommend helicoil or timesert? Do you recommend red loctite on the outer threads of the insert?
How do you have to wait after repairing can you turn on engine?
Want a temporary fix at best? Get Helicoil. Want a permanent type fix? Call us for the best solution. 800-734-8665 x251
Is there a difference between the time-sert drill bit and the helicoil drill bit?
+Eric HandymanAuto Eric, the two brands are completely different sizes. That includes all tooling including the drill bits.
I would like to purchase some of your kits
Time-sert all the way! Helicoil is cheaper because you get what you pay for.
Hi my v10 Excursion have never blow out a spark and I always have a feeling that it will blow out at some point .
I change the plugs once every 6 months to be in the safe side .
Should I get the kit and do the heads or not?
Thanks...
Mohanned AL-Deen I wouldn't be overly concerned. I would however, make sure the plugs are tight and then leave it alone. It's not normal to change plugs every six months. That in itself can cause excessive wear on the aluminum threads than normal. But, if you still can't sleep at night, we'd be happy to sell you a kit. Good Luck.
+Hillman Wents Not sure what happened your comment calling me an idiot. But Wow ok. Someone's having a bad day. You're certainly entitled to your opinion. I'm a master automotive tech and sell auto tools on two automotive tool websites (since 2005). So yeah, you could say that my focus is on auto repairs. I speak with people all the time that've used Helicoil repairs that have failed and they need a solution. BTW my phone number is 800-524-9783 x251 if anyone needs assistance in getting the best kit. And here's a link to a video I did awhile back using a Time Sert oversize kit to repair a failed HeliCoil repair. th-cam.com/video/TS3icrhlhbU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info. What the difference in price (between the two?) I need to rethread a few stripped thread in non critical points of a motorcycle so while I might want to use the more expensive and better Time-Sert in critical spots, I wouldn't want to go for the overkill when the job could be done with less money (for instance to hold plastics covers and such. Thanks again!
Sounds like you've pretty much decided. Not sure how well Helicoils will work in plastics. Good Luck.
No, have not decided yet that was why I was asking ;) Yet you could have provided an insight responding to my main question: what's the difference in price between the two... does one option cost 2x, 3x... 10x the other? Not asking for an accurate amount, an educated guesstimate, ball parked figure would suffice.
I certainly lean towards using the product that makes the most sense from both an economical as well practical point of view.
I must have not explained myself well enough in my previous post as I am most definitely not planning to use helicoil or timesert to thread directly into a plastic part... Instead I was referring to the fact that I would use it to thread into something like a frame bolt (metal) whose only function is that of holding a side fairing, a cowling, or other similar item (plastic) which is not a structural component of the bile nor a part of the engine block and has no critical function, like securing an engine part (spark plug or cylinder head) holding together the frame, securing the disk rotor to the wheel and other such critical function.
The more economic re-threading solution would be used only in parts that are not subjected to any heavy forces which could shear, pull, bend, etc a bolt and where using a more expensive product would be more an overkill than a necessity.
I hope the above clarified my intent and the reasons why I asked. Thanks.
Thanks for commenting. Like most things, you pay more for higher quality, so yes, Time Sert is definitely more. Not sure what percentage. You can easily Google the brands and size you want to compare prices on. Just remember you are somewhat comparing oranges to apples.
Need help getting the right kit? Call us at 800-734-8665.
Which kit do you recommend for a vw bug 1600 dual carb,length of the inserts?thanks ( head studs M10x1.5)
qwertrewq9879878712 www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_53520_273/time_sert_oil_drain_plug_repair___aluminum_p.html 24.5mm as listing says.
I just learned about keenserts. They look to be mechanically robust /w those little metal anti-rotate spikes.
+s50201 Maybe OK for certain applications. I don't see how they would work in anything other than flush mount surfaces. Time Sert can be installed in cases where the threads don't start at the very top of the hole. Also, Time Sert is held in by the bottom of the insert being cold rolled with a driver, finishing the threads and expanding it which holds it from the bottom. Thread lock sealer can also be used which makes it a leak proof repair. Here's a link for more info. blog.wiseautotools.com/time-sert-or-heli-coil/
WiseAutoTools Thx for your thoughts. TH-cam vid for Keenserts say you adjust the thread start height /w a chamfer, so maybe that's not the biggest deal (appears the kit has a tool to drive the spikes in as well). Thread lock can be used regardless of the solution, so I'd think that's an equal factor among all 3 products.
+s50201 I don't see Keenserts starting 3 or 4 inches down in a hole like is needed on many head bolt thread repairs, Thread lock can be used on threads but may not seal the channels the Keenserts pins go down in. I'm sure when you look a little further, you'll see that there are no specific Keensert kits for automotive repairs Ford spark plug thread repair, aluminum oil pan thread repair, Toyota or Northstar head bolt thread repair etc. All have specific challenges to insure a professional quality repair. Like for Ford spark plug threads a taper seat is needed. The threads start about 5-6 inches down a well. If a repair has been done by Helicoil or some other competitive brand and failed, an over-size repair insert is needed. For Toyota, GM, Honda head bolt thread repairs, the threads start down several inches inside the bolt hole. So longer tooling is needed and the ability to secure the inserts. Keenserts method will not reach. Keensert cannot chamfer a hole several inches down. Even if it could the pin tool would not reach. Thanks for the conversation though. Have a great weekend.
WiseAutoTools Points taken -I've never used Keeinsert myself, so it's good to get ppl like you's thoughts. Certainly in high-pressure applications I'd think the spikes would be cause for leak, but then again it could not be depending on how tight the actual friction fit of those spikes are. In any case, it sounds like Timeserts are a good candidate all around. I'll give'em a shot next time.
not to troll but i really still dont see how it time sert would be better unless you're doing a head bolt?????
Andrew Zimmern Thanks for the comment. Time Sert has solid steel sleeve type inserts as opposed to a Helicoil thin coil of wire. So it should be easy to understand that the Time Sert is better for this reason alone. Factor in the fact that the Time Sert inserts are locked in from the bottom when the installation driver cold rolls the bottom threads as opposed to Heicoils only being held in by spring action, Time Sert is obviously better. Here's more info - www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2012/04/time-sert-vs-heli-coil-thread-repair-kits-which-one-is-better/
Much more pricey tool.... better and justified if a guy uses the same size all the time though...
Our phone number is 800-524-9783 x251 if anyone needs assistance in getting the best kit for their application. And here's a link to a video I did awhile back using a Time Sert 5600 oversize kit to repair a failed HeliCoil repair. th-cam.com/video/TS3icrhlhbU/w-d-xo.html
where can I buy parts phone # ?
We've got the 38900-1 starting at 179.99 wiseautotools.com/calvan-38900-1-ford-spark-plug-thread-repair-kit-w-one-insert/ Time Sert offered as well. Call for help with application and what's the best kit for your vehicle. 800-734-8665 x251.
Dude TimeSert!
wiseautotools.com/brands/Time%252dSert.html 800-734-8665
M11x1.5 Head Bolt Thread Repair Kit Time Sert 2200 wiseautotools.com/time-sert-2200-universal-head-bolt-thread-repair-kit-m11x1-5mm/
Just complete this operation, it took 5 hours
The drill and tap is not to be rushed, , and now I have it ready to fit new injectors that will hold , amazeing though how the engineering firm that put a helicoil in said that will hold, it of course blew out, so it’s a minefield of total imbeciles out there who claim they can fix your vehical, lucky for me I seen the workmanship of the repair man at hand and said fuck off you clown , you’ll end up wrecking the head
See our Time Sert section at WiseAutoTools.com wiseautotools.com/brands/Time%252dSert.html
I'd say worth it even if only using a kit once. Better to do it once and not have a failure and have to to the same job again.
wiseautotools.com/brands/Time%252dSert.html
The Calvan 38900-8 works for many applications for first time repairs or repairs after a parts store kit has failed. It has long tooling and a guide for the reamer and tap. wiseautotools.com/calvan-38900-8-ford-4-6-5-4-6-8-spark-plug-port-repair-kit-w-8-inserts/
WTF is a Heeeeelicoil? It's Heli like in Helicopter. Helicoil.
blacktiger955i Ok Ok funny... Guys I've worked with always pronounced it Heeli-coil, like Helium. But however you want to pronounce Heli-Coil, if it fails you'll likely say Aw HAIL naw... :(
blacktiger955i I've turned a few wrenches in my time, earned a two year certificate in machining and worked at two of the largest Machine Shop companies in the nation before age 20. I've done a bit of mechanic work in the 35 years since as well. In all that time I have never until today heard it pronounced any other way than "Heeli-coil" like the heel of a shoe. Regardless of how it is spelled, I think most people would laugh at someone who asked for a Heli-Coil pronouncing it like the word helicopter. I doubt they would even understand what you were asking for at first.
+blacktiger955i
Nope. Just ask the manufacturer, Emhart how to pronounce it. Also, what difference does it make?
I am an old Grandpa now, but I cut my teeth on tools and worked as a machinist with two very large machining companies. I've heard many very knowledgeable people in machining and mechanics pronounce the word countless times and have always heard it pronounced with the long e sound as in "heel". So while my experience of hearing and saying the word my not be proof, I would have to say you are the first person I've ever even heard suggest that it is pronounced the same as the word helicopter.
Actually Wade, I was replying to Black Tiger just as you were. Emhart calls it HEELICOIL but spells it helicoil. You are correct.