Thanks ! It's working great. I'm still at the prototype stage, but looks very promising. Note for NodeMCU users : The DS1820 has to be disconnected from the RX pin in order to flash the firmware through USB, otherwise the connection fails. So the sequence is : - flash the FW, - connect the DS, reboot, get the DS address on the log though Wifi connection , - update DS address in code, recompile, - disconnect DS, re-flash, - and reconnect DS.
Indeed, like I mention at 18:35 - A change to ESPHome made it fail at boot if the Dallas sensor was powered. I got over that by switching the power in software. :)
Awesome video! I am working on a project like this for my well house to use a freeze protection. I want it to work standalone but be adjustable from home assistant. Thanks for this!
I am very curious, why only cooling and heating control? You should include a fan relay as well as in many cases it needs to be controlled separately even with heating and cooling. I am very interested in this project. I found out about ESPHome Thermostat recently after looking for a HA controllable unit to replace my Nest and found little off the shelf solutions to my liking. My only issue with the ESPHome unit is the lack of an easily attached screen for the more commonly used interface in the house. While I can easily build and flash such units I can not code myself and rely heavily on other's work for such features.
In my situation each room has a Fan heater and an 'normal' 3-Speed Fan. It is those that this thermostat controls. Of course, it can be easily re-configured to control Central Heating and per-room AC units. In the next iteration, I'm planning a re-vamped version for more conventional HVAC setups.
@@3ATIVE ooh, I see! Thank you so much for that bit of information. Maybe I should go back and watch your other videos. lol Since I've started down the home automation path I've run up against a lot of instances where knowing how to code would have helped so much, this being the example. I should use it as a push to learn more and do this bit myself.
@@CharredChar Cool, yeah... watch all my videos! LMAO It's been requested I go in-depth with the code explanations so, all future tutorials will either include it, or if the code is complex, a sperate video. #StayTuned
Hi. Great DIY device. Great tutorial. It would be really nice if you could put in the video's description the exact list of all the part that need to be bought to be able to make this device... really including everything. I am happy to buy using your sponsored links, but having the full detailed list would really ease up things, and make sure I can start on the job straight away, without making mistakes in the purchases or missing anything. Could you do that?
Thank you for the kind words. 😎 All the parts I use in all my projects can be found in my Amazon 'Shop' links. I have updated it for you, now the first three items are for this thermostat - You can get the D1 Mini and the 'Vero Board' from anywhere really. ** Also, if you prefer, I have listed a Custom PCB I got made here: ebay.co.uk/itm/203570959081 **
I have been waiting for the video not sure how I missed it. as alwasy awesome and fully cover every aspect of the project. Thanks once again for your time. just turned on the notification sure will not miss any new video :)
Sorry to hear you missed the upload time, "better late than never!" :) Thank you for the kind words. I do enjoy reading every comment and I'm humbled by all the positive feedback. I hope you don't have any problems with your build but, if you do I'm more than happy to offer advice. Also, I've recently received the custom PCBs I designed for this, I'll be giving a few away on an up coming Live Stream, hopefully the notification will work for you. Here's some photos of the boards: instagram.com/p/CPlZuqDIv7q/
@@3ATIVE already turned on the bell notification and looking forward to joining the live stream. I successfully created this project on a breadboard. Dallas sensor connection "schematic.JPG" probably needs a review. I made the Dallas sensor works by connecting VIN to 3.3, GND to GND, and Out pin to D3. i used nodemcu but guess there shouldnot be any issue if i would be using d1mini. thanks
@@shahidmustafa7768 That's great to hear! Are you making more than one, multi-room setup? OMG! You are correct... I screwed up the schematic, that Dallas sensor was wrong. Good catch, thank you for letting me know. 🍺 ** New schematic uploaded and replaced **
@@shahidmustafa7768 Pretty much. Everything is coded already. So, Just the 'Room' Name and the Heater and Cooler entities - If you plan to have it control a couple of HA installed devices. Otherwise, the two relay outputs for Heater and Cooler are on Pins D0 & D5 (D1 Mini) respectively.
You are a legend Dave! love your videos i watch them over and over. My Misses doesn't like it though because i keep spending money to build your projects. Cheers Mate, keep them coming!
LOL Thank you Aj, I'm glad you like them so much - I really appreciate the support. ❤ Hmmm.. best you un-subb and stop watching my content, I've got A TON more projects coming. Next one will either be the 'Smart' Humidifier or the Air Freshener. 🤣
@@4sayken Ok, seeing as how you are the first to ask, My 'Fresh-O-Matic' Project will be the next one. 👍 I do have a Patreon account and if you join... You'll be my FIRST there too! LOL : www.patreon.com/3ative
Awesome build thank you very much for your video! I've been working on the same thing before finding your video, and now I will have to compare details. One thing that I did find working on my thermostat is that having the temp sensor so close to the esp definitely affects actual temperature. I had to physically move my temp sensor further away to get "true" temperature readings. Just my 2 cents. Thanks again for the great video!
Thank you for the kind words and feedback. 👌 Indeed, having the temperature sensor near the ESP board can be problematic and so I designed this such that the Dallas sensor is at the bottom of the unit and it would be mounted vertically, with plenty of air-flow (Top and bottom of the case) 👍
This is very good. I love the encoder hat you made too. But there's just one part missing, that is the relays to turn the heater/fan on/off. Add those and you do have a complete thermostat!
@@3ATIVE Cheers cobber. Yeah I saw them in the code. I was trying to get it to run on my Olimex ESP32_POE_ISO board but having issues. I grab a D1 Mini and take another stab. I'll let you know how it goes 🙂
Well done, I will need to take a close look at the yaml to learn some new skills there too. Nice one David, looking forward to seeing the custom boarded version. Just a thought, most UK homes don't have AC but do have water heater controls usually embedded with the heating controls. Any ideas how to integrate the water heating circuit?
Thank you Peter, this video took a while to make 👍 As for the water heater-ing: I think most just use a simple on/off/timer (1 or 2hrs) and either command an electric 'immersion' element or divert some or all 'radiator bound' heat through pipes in a tank. You are right, this setup can't do that but, it's given me an idea for another video! LOL - I guess I'll have to buy one of those controllers and mimic it. 😊
@@3ATIVE Hi, yes, most uk based house systems tend to combine heating and hot water control from a single boiler, usually using one or more 3-port valves. Newer combi boilers don't have a hot water tank so these are normally on-demand and don't need any automation. Hive sell two types of controller, heating only which is really just a cloud connected relay and temp sensor, and a dual unit that also allows scheduling of the hat water circuit.
@@dougle03 Indeed, even though my design has two 'outputs' it can easily be adapted for one to work on UK Combi-boilers and be used as a 'whole house' thermostat. The main reason for this design was to control a single room by commanding a basic fan, an AC unit or a window opener for cooling and something like a fan heater or an electric storage heater for heating... I tried to make it as versatile as possible. However, the 'Heat' function could also be used to control that room's radiator valves. In this setup, any room could turn on the boiler and any rooms that are 'cold' would get heated too. I plan to do another 1-2 videos detailing options for various heating / boiler setups in the near future.
Hi Dave, very cool project I love it. Could it be that you have missed to solder the 4.7K resistor on the D1 mini board, for the Dallas sensor? I build one thermostat myself according to your guide, but I could not see the part how to solder the resistor. thanks
Thank you Mr Byte, it's great to hear someone else has followed my guide. 👍 As far as I could tell, Dallas Data Sheet, that pull-up resistor is only needed for long data lines. I've included it on the custom PCB's I had made (See my insta post for those: instagram.com/p/CPlZuqDIv7q/ ) but, I haven't needed to add one myself.
👍 Good morning, Do you have an idea to turn on the screen when you press the button and it turns off after 20 seconds, if no manipulation? Of course, by leaving it running constantly (except the screen)? Sincerely
Good Day 👋 Sure, you could add a script that waits 20 seconds then makes the OLED screen 0% Brightness. Any interaction with the Rotary Encoder or the Push Button can be used to bring the OLED back on and trigger / Re-Trigger the Script.
This is a great project I made the shopping list. But I would have a little request. Could you make a small update to this thermostat to be completely wireless? That is, this module should not contain the control relay and should be powered by a li-ion battery. And another esp32 that has a relay to receive the command from it to start the boiler. Thanks for any advice.
There's no need to include the Relay, the main point of this was to link to Home Assistant and for that to control any Boiler/ Radiators, etc. (include remote relays) As for battery powered... It's something I'm looking in to but, ESP and WiFi use a lot of power and won't last too long on a charge. It's only useful for sensors that sleep long and report back once every few minutes... and even then you'll only get a few months.
Do you plan to make a video about how to actually connect this to a heater and/or if you can explain how traditional thermostats usually work vs how these types work? Or the two this work the same? Those are just thermo-relay boards as well?
Have already included that in the code. There are relay outputs for 'Cooler' and 'Heater' units - See Chapter: Ten. There is also API commands sent back to Home Assistant to control other 'Cooler' and 'Heater' Devices/Entities you may have previously setup.
@@lverlaek Kinda... You have to make "frames", on separate layers: - Each one rotated a little - Added to PS's "Timeline" - Then you can export as an animated GIF. Here's a nice article from Adobe: www.adobe.com/uk/creativecloud/photography/discover/animated-gif.html
Sure any temperature sensor will work, I used the 18b20's for the size. Sadly I don't have time to re-write the code for you but, I can point you in the right direction... If you use the same 'id:' the rest of the code should still work but, check here: esphome.io/components/sensor/dht.html
Great project. A few questions if you don't mind. 1/ where does the actual thermostat decision logic happen? In Home Assistant or on the ESPHome hardware? 2/ your thermostat code controls the local hardware relays but also home assistant heating/cooling entities. Practically speaking, only one of them is necessary right? the heating/cooling devices either connect to the local relays, or they're managed through home assistant entities, but not both. Am i correct in that? 3/ if home assistant goes down and heating/cooling devices are connected to the local relays, will the thermostat still work?
Thank you Marc. Sure, here's goes :) 1. Everything that this thermostat does is programmed on the D1 Mini in ESPHome 2. Yes, I programmed both as options. So you can either control devices (with the relays) or entities connected to Home Assistant. 3. Yes, they will still work. The thermostat will control the relays and has it's own temperature sensor... It doesn't even need Home Assistant or Wi-Fi to operate.
@@marcvl My pleasure. It's always so good to hear when someone finds my tutorials useful - even more so when they are used creatively in a similar project.
You would be able to do that there was only one slider for heating, without cooling and for the button + button - The buttons would be tactile in the panel.
@@jeffchan6614 They are nothing special - they are basically SONOFF Basics and just switching Mains. I use HA and the thermostat(s) for the overall control and 'Smart'-ness
Really nice work! I wish my projects looked as tidy and professional. I haven’t considered using those type of grid boards to build devices on before, I will now. You make it looks easy though, I’m sure it’s not! Only thing I’m missing is a 3D printer. Any recommendations? And keep up the great ESP/smart home content
Thanks for the kind words. 👍 My early boards didn't look as good. LOL It just takes time and practice. As with all projects, planning is key and these 'VERO' Boards do take a little bit of extra work, cutting or drilling out the Copper tracks is the hardest thing to get right. As for 3D Printers, I know some libraries have them available but, there's always 'Maker-Spaces' or friends and I think there's a few people on-line that are willing to help. Failing that, they're not that expensive these days... mine (Ender 3 V2) is only £160 now!
@@3ATIVEThanks I’ll check that out. Is this particular device going to mounted on the wall? Is is made to fit a euro/grid U.K. electrical faceplate for e.g? Im thinking about this as a dimmer switch too?
@@djrosco1982 I've only designed and programmed the Thermostat, I shared the 3D printed front plate and knob as a basis for your own design. So yeah, you could mount in an electrical back-box - with the appropriate modifications. I did also think about having it as a light dimmer - I may have a go at making one... maybe another tutorial coming soon! 😉
@@3ATIVE : I find the idea to use simple drills to take away the copper layer really great!!! The few boards I created manually had to suffer due to me using knifes and as you might imagine this did not go too well. I got lazy and disappointed over the experience and now I use KiCAD and order the PCB online for small money.
Brilliant - I've been waiting for this. I was thinking of using an ESP32 instead so I could leverage the BLE support for presence detection and get temperature and humidity values from cheap Xiaomi temperature displays. That way I don't have to rely on temperature inside the enclosure being representative of the room temperature. I was thinking of placing the display close to the room light switch so I can get power from the lighting circuit power supply. Look forward to seeing what you come up with w.r.t. the circuit board.
Cheers Peter. 👍 All good ideas there. I went for a D1 mini for a few reasons, mainly its small size but, an ESP32 would be my first choice for any project with multiple functions too.
@@avri210984 the trouble with the D1 Mini ESP32, for me, is the double row of pins. It's quite difficult to use one on VERO board and totally impossible on a 'Bread-Board. Making R&D a pain. :)
There has been some changes to ESPHome the broke this, mainly using a Dallas temperature sensor while running the OLED. I have submitted many GitHub issues but have yet to hear any feedback.
Przepraszam. Zmiany w ESPHome zepsuły ten projekt. 😥 Zgłosiłem to lata temu i nikt tego nie naprawił. Ja też jestem bardzo zdenerwowany, nic nie mogę zrobić
Thank you, I'm glad it was inspiring 🥳 All the components are available pretty much everywhere - you'll find all the components on my *Amazon Store page* and the 3D Printer (STL file) from the GitHub page (Both links in the Description)... Here's a list: * D1 Mini * 1.3" OLED Display * Dallas Temperature Sensor * Rotary Encoder
@@b3y0urs3lf code doesn't look right, it should be something like: On_click: then: Switch_toggle: [your switch] Check the docs, I'm on my phone ATM, so can't look it up here.
I had a similar Esphome setup, but my problem was that if the ESP would lost the wifi connection the controller wouldn't fallback to the default min max settings
Problem: 'min_idle_time' is a required option for [climate.thermostat]. [hysteresis] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Please check the indentation. hysteresis: 0.2 °C SSD1306/SH1106 no longer accepts brightness option, please use "contrast" instead.
Question - instead of using gpio pins to control a wired relay, I'd like to send a HTTP message to a Shelly 1PM device over Wi-Fi to control it, just hooked up to a baseboard heater. Will your project be able to send a HTTP message instead of control the gpio pins?
I also only need the thermostat to heat. Can I remove everything in the .yaml that is related to cooler and have it display and work OK as a thermostat?
It is nice to see such a project with good documentation on GitHub and even a proper schematic! I am very much attached to schematics and seeing the Fritzing output lets me kind of shudder. One thing I still do not comprehend though is the fact that the binary is flashed with an external program onto the chip. I guess this is a Windows related "feature". I myself never leave the ESPHome GUI in order to do the flashing. So maybe someone can "enlighten" me?
Thank you for the feedback, I do try and make all tutorials as comprehensive as I can. 👍 As for flashing, unless the device, in this case a D1 mini is connected to the same 'computer' ESPHome is installed on, you have to download the .BIN file a flash using an additional program - In my case, 'ESPHome Flasher' 😎 - I hope that clears it up for you. 👍
@@3ATIVE - Until recently I had my notebooks (an old one for HA) next to each other and physical access was no problem. ;-) I guess this was making me 'blind'. I develop on a notebook which is not running HA and for me it became a habit to use the combo ESPHome dashboard / VS code. Especially for initial flashing I take advantage of having VS code enriched with some extensions (vs the 'naked' add-on) on my computer. In addition I use Git push locally and pull on the production side.
Is it possible to have a neopixel ring around the rotary Knob to reflect the Temprature set as visual indicator say for few seconds & turn off ? I am not a expert in yaml coding, can u post a quick ref code for that or a quick turoeial video for it please?
@@easwaran83 Sorry fella, I don't have time to make projects for individuals. However, it is possible to read the thermostat setting, in this projects' code either: "id(this_thermostat).target_temperature_high" or "id(this_thermostat).target_temperature_low" and use those variables to effect the LED ring. You should find everything you need here: esphome.io/
Hello, good video and the content of your youtube channel is very interesting. Good luck for the future. PS if for the next video you could incorporate the subtitles it would be the best especially for a deaf French like me. ok I'll buy you a coffee. ☕
Thank you for the kind feedback, I am so happy you found my video interesting. I think TH-cam can do subtitles automatically but, I will certainly look in to making them available. Cheers for the coffee. Merci beaucoup ❤
Great videa, very detailed ho to build. Can you please upload the electric schematic on github ? Maibe we try other solution tu build . And is a litle hard to folow the video and/ or the yaml to get it. Wish you the best
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it. I have got some custom PCBs on order, that make the whole thing easier to build and more compact, stay tuned for the give-a-way coming soon. In the meantime, as requested... I have added the schematic to the Github page - Enjoy. Let me know what you come up with. ✔
As i write on FB, after i build one and tested with a small 0.8 inch display, i have received the 1.2inch display but the VCC and GND pins are inverted on the display i have received so is just a warning for other people to be careful. I have not verify the pins order just replace whith tne new and burned.
@@3ATIVE I have take a look around the net. I found displays with pun no 1 VCC and also with GND on pin no 1. The Chinese are magnific but no rules on this product. So only a litle more attention. Maybe also other electronics parts have inverted pins. I don't know is just a supozition
I got this error information： [default_preset] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Did you mean [default_mode]? default_preset: Home [source /config/esphome/thermostat-v3-oled.yaml:97] [on_boot_restore_from] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Please check the indentation. on_boot_restore_from: default_preset [source /config/esphome/thermostat-v3-oled.yaml:99] [preset] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Please check the indentation. preset: [source /config/esphome/thermostat-v3-oled.yaml:101]
Thanks ! It's working great. I'm still at the prototype stage, but looks very promising. Note for NodeMCU users : The DS1820 has to be disconnected from the RX pin in order to flash the firmware through USB, otherwise the connection fails. So the sequence is :
- flash the FW,
- connect the DS, reboot, get the DS address on the log though Wifi connection ,
- update DS address in code, recompile,
- disconnect DS, re-flash,
- and reconnect DS.
Indeed, like I mention at 18:35 - A change to ESPHome made it fail at boot if the Dallas sensor was powered. I got over that by switching the power in software. :)
**I've fixed the code where some people (including me) had a Wi-Fi connection problem. You can get the improved code from the same GitHub link**
Appreciate your work! Got a copy running last night 🎉
YAY! that's great to hear.
Awesome video! I am working on a project like this for my well house to use a freeze protection. I want it to work standalone but be adjustable from home assistant. Thanks for this!
Thank you Devin Kraeker, it's nice to hear it was use/help-full for you.😎
I am very curious, why only cooling and heating control? You should include a fan relay as well as in many cases it needs to be controlled separately even with heating and cooling.
I am very interested in this project. I found out about ESPHome Thermostat recently after looking for a HA controllable unit to replace my Nest and found little off the shelf solutions to my liking. My only issue with the ESPHome unit is the lack of an easily attached screen for the more commonly used interface in the house. While I can easily build and flash such units I can not code myself and rely heavily on other's work for such features.
In my situation each room has a Fan heater and an 'normal' 3-Speed Fan. It is those that this thermostat controls.
Of course, it can be easily re-configured to control Central Heating and per-room AC units.
In the next iteration, I'm planning a re-vamped version for more conventional HVAC setups.
@@3ATIVE ooh, I see! Thank you so much for that bit of information. Maybe I should go back and watch your other videos. lol
Since I've started down the home automation path I've run up against a lot of instances where knowing how to code would have helped so much, this being the example. I should use it as a push to learn more and do this bit myself.
@@CharredChar Cool, yeah... watch all my videos! LMAO
It's been requested I go in-depth with the code explanations so, all future tutorials will either include it, or if the code is complex, a sperate video. #StayTuned
Hi. Great DIY device. Great tutorial. It would be really nice if you could put in the video's description the exact list of all the part that need to be bought to be able to make this device... really including everything. I am happy to buy using your sponsored links, but having the full detailed list would really ease up things, and make sure I can start on the job straight away, without making mistakes in the purchases or missing anything. Could you do that?
Thank you for the kind words. 😎
All the parts I use in all my projects can be found in my Amazon 'Shop' links. I have updated it for you, now the first three items are for this thermostat - You can get the D1 Mini and the 'Vero Board' from anywhere really.
** Also, if you prefer, I have listed a Custom PCB I got made here: ebay.co.uk/itm/203570959081 **
I have been waiting for the video not sure how I missed it. as alwasy awesome and fully cover every aspect of the project. Thanks once again for your time. just turned on the notification sure will not miss any new video :)
Sorry to hear you missed the upload time, "better late than never!" :)
Thank you for the kind words. I do enjoy reading every comment and I'm humbled by all the positive feedback. I hope you don't have any problems with your build but, if you do I'm more than happy to offer advice.
Also, I've recently received the custom PCBs I designed for this, I'll be giving a few away on an up coming Live Stream, hopefully the notification will work for you.
Here's some photos of the boards: instagram.com/p/CPlZuqDIv7q/
@@3ATIVE already turned on the bell notification and looking forward to joining the live stream. I successfully created this project on a breadboard. Dallas sensor connection "schematic.JPG" probably needs a review. I made the Dallas sensor works by connecting VIN to 3.3, GND to GND, and Out pin to D3. i used nodemcu but guess there shouldnot be any issue if i would be using d1mini. thanks
@@shahidmustafa7768 That's great to hear! Are you making more than one, multi-room setup?
OMG! You are correct... I screwed up the schematic, that Dallas sensor was wrong. Good catch, thank you for letting me know. 🍺
** New schematic uploaded and replaced **
@@3ATIVE thanks for updating it. Yes this is the plan .. I am assuming I need to copy the step and change the room names only?
@@shahidmustafa7768 Pretty much. Everything is coded already. So, Just the 'Room' Name and the Heater and Cooler entities - If you plan to have it control a couple of HA installed devices.
Otherwise, the two relay outputs for Heater and Cooler are on Pins D0 & D5 (D1 Mini) respectively.
You are a legend Dave! love your videos i watch them over and over. My Misses doesn't like it though because i keep spending money to build your projects.
Cheers Mate, keep them coming!
LOL Thank you Aj, I'm glad you like them so much - I really appreciate the support. ❤
Hmmm.. best you un-subb and stop watching my content, I've got A TON more projects coming. Next one will either be the 'Smart' Humidifier or the Air Freshener. 🤣
@@3ATIVE definitely the air freshener
@@3ATIVE do you have patreon or something
@@4sayken Ok, seeing as how you are the first to ask, My 'Fresh-O-Matic' Project will be the next one. 👍
I do have a Patreon account and if you join... You'll be my FIRST there too! LOL : www.patreon.com/3ative
@@4sayken If you don't want to do the whole monthly (Patreon) thing, there's always: www.buymeacoffee.com/3ative
Awesome build thank you very much for your video! I've been working on the same thing before finding your video, and now I will have to compare details. One thing that I did find working on my thermostat is that having the temp sensor so close to the esp definitely affects actual temperature. I had to physically move my temp sensor further away to get "true" temperature readings. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks again for the great video!
Thank you for the kind words and feedback. 👌
Indeed, having the temperature sensor near the ESP board can be problematic and so I designed this such that the Dallas sensor is at the bottom of the unit and it would be mounted vertically, with plenty of air-flow (Top and bottom of the case) 👍
Thank you for the project. You will suggest how to add a relay to home assistant.
I have already coded for two relay's in the code, take a look here:
th-cam.com/video/RorDXsYIrnQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for making these videos.. What happens when HA goes offline or crashes? Will your AC unit loose control? That would suck.
oops while reading more comments you mention the system still runs without HA even on.... Perfect !! Thanks again.
No worries. 😉
Nice DIY project, is it possible to use a rotary encoder HW-040 (Arduino) ?
That's pretty much the same thing I used. Only that's mounted on a board.
Awesome project! I remixed it to include an alarm panel and work with only-heating systems. Not sure if I can link it here so others can use it too? 😄
Thnx, glad you found it useful for your project. Sorry, no links allowed... BUT, find me on FB/Twitter/Insta/Email and I'll add the link for ya.
@@3ATIVE Great! I sent you a message on insta.
This is very good. I love the encoder hat you made too. But there's just one part missing, that is the relays to turn the heater/fan on/off. Add those and you do have a complete thermostat!
Thanks fella. 👍
I have provisioned for both relays in the code. However, the main point was to control Home Assistant entities.
@@3ATIVE Cheers cobber. Yeah I saw them in the code. I was trying to get it to run on my Olimex ESP32_POE_ISO board but having issues. I grab a D1 Mini and take another stab. I'll let you know how it goes 🙂
@@sausage5849 No worries. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work on your POE board - Other than GPIO numbers being different for the ESP32.
Well done, I will need to take a close look at the yaml to learn some new skills there too. Nice one David, looking forward to seeing the custom boarded version. Just a thought, most UK homes don't have AC but do have water heater controls usually embedded with the heating controls. Any ideas how to integrate the water heating circuit?
Thank you Peter, this video took a while to make 👍
As for the water heater-ing: I think most just use a simple on/off/timer (1 or 2hrs) and either command an electric 'immersion' element or divert some or all 'radiator bound' heat through pipes in a tank.
You are right, this setup can't do that but, it's given me an idea for another video! LOL - I guess I'll have to buy one of those controllers and mimic it. 😊
@@3ATIVE Hi, yes, most uk based house systems tend to combine heating and hot water control from a single boiler, usually using one or more 3-port valves. Newer combi boilers don't have a hot water tank so these are normally on-demand and don't need any automation. Hive sell two types of controller, heating only which is really just a cloud connected relay and temp sensor, and a dual unit that also allows scheduling of the hat water circuit.
@@dougle03 Indeed, even though my design has two 'outputs' it can easily be adapted for one to work on UK Combi-boilers and be used as a 'whole house' thermostat.
The main reason for this design was to control a single room by commanding a basic fan, an AC unit or a window opener for cooling and something like a fan heater or an electric storage heater for heating... I tried to make it as versatile as possible.
However, the 'Heat' function could also be used to control that room's radiator valves. In this setup, any room could turn on the boiler and any rooms that are 'cold' would get heated too.
I plan to do another 1-2 videos detailing options for various heating / boiler setups in the near future.
@@3ATIVE Amazing stuff. My Hive system is irritating me on an almost daily basis now, so this is perfect timing. Any news on those boards?
@@dougle03 Excellent, not the irritating bit LOL
Yeah, the boards arrived yesterday, I insta posted some pics: instagram.com/p/CPlZuqDIv7q/
Hi Dave, very cool project I love it.
Could it be that you have missed to solder the 4.7K resistor on the D1 mini board, for the Dallas sensor?
I build one thermostat myself according to your guide, but I could not see the part how to solder the resistor.
thanks
Thank you Mr Byte, it's great to hear someone else has followed my guide. 👍
As far as I could tell, Dallas Data Sheet, that pull-up resistor is only needed for long data lines. I've included it on the custom PCB's I had made (See my insta post for those: instagram.com/p/CPlZuqDIv7q/ ) but, I haven't needed to add one myself.
👍
Good morning,
Do you have an idea to turn on the screen when you press the button and it turns off after 20 seconds, if no manipulation? Of course, by leaving it running constantly (except the screen)?
Sincerely
Good Day 👋
Sure, you could add a script that waits 20 seconds then makes the OLED screen 0% Brightness. Any interaction with the Rotary Encoder or the Push Button can be used to bring the OLED back on and trigger / Re-Trigger the Script.
This is a great project I made the shopping list. But I would have a little request. Could you make a small update to this thermostat to be completely wireless? That is, this module should not contain the control relay and should be powered by a li-ion battery. And another esp32 that has a relay to receive the command from it to start the boiler. Thanks for any advice.
There's no need to include the Relay, the main point of this was to link to Home Assistant and for that to control any Boiler/ Radiators, etc. (include remote relays)
As for battery powered... It's something I'm looking in to but, ESP and WiFi use a lot of power and won't last too long on a charge. It's only useful for sensors that sleep long and report back once every few minutes... and even then you'll only get a few months.
Was waiting for this for a long time! Thanks
Cool, I hope it works for you. Lemma know how you get on. 👍
Do you plan to make a video about how to actually connect this to a heater and/or if you can explain how traditional thermostats usually work vs how these types work? Or the two this work the same? Those are just thermo-relay boards as well?
Have already included that in the code. There are relay outputs for 'Cooler' and 'Heater' units - See Chapter: Ten.
There is also API commands sent back to Home Assistant to control other 'Cooler' and 'Heater' Devices/Entities you may have previously setup.
Will check again, thanks!
Where do you get some more of those nice GIF's? Can't seem to find any. Thanks!
I guess you could Google for some. However, the ones I show/used I made myself, using MDI Icons and PhotoShop.
@@3ATIVE You mean you just rotated an MDI in PS and exported it as a GIF? Something like that?
@@lverlaek Kinda... You have to make "frames", on separate layers:
- Each one rotated a little
- Added to PS's "Timeline"
- Then you can export as an animated GIF.
Here's a nice article from Adobe:
www.adobe.com/uk/creativecloud/photography/discover/animated-gif.html
Looks Great. Had been working on another thermostat. Waiting for new boards.
Thanks, it took a bit of time to finalise. The boards, waiting for yours or mine?
@@3ATIVE yours.
Thank you for the great project can I use dht11 instead of the d18b20 as it's not available, and what modifications I should make for the code please.
Sure any temperature sensor will work, I used the 18b20's for the size. Sadly I don't have time to re-write the code for you but, I can point you in the right direction...
If you use the same 'id:' the rest of the code should still work but, check here:
esphome.io/components/sensor/dht.html
Great project. A few questions if you don't mind. 1/ where does the actual thermostat decision logic happen? In Home Assistant or on the ESPHome hardware? 2/ your thermostat code controls the local hardware relays but also home assistant heating/cooling entities. Practically speaking, only one of them is necessary right? the heating/cooling devices either connect to the local relays, or they're managed through home assistant entities, but not both. Am i correct in that? 3/ if home assistant goes down and heating/cooling devices are connected to the local relays, will the thermostat still work?
Thank you Marc. Sure, here's goes :)
1. Everything that this thermostat does is programmed on the D1 Mini in ESPHome
2. Yes, I programmed both as options. So you can either control devices (with the relays) or entities connected to Home Assistant.
3. Yes, they will still work. The thermostat will control the relays and has it's own temperature sensor... It doesn't even need Home Assistant or Wi-Fi to operate.
@@3ATIVE Great thanks. I'm implementing a version of this using the new Sonoff NSPanel and connecting to 2 Dometic Acs. Your video helped a lot!!
@@marcvl My pleasure. It's always so good to hear when someone finds my tutorials useful - even more so when they are used creatively in a similar project.
You would be able to do that there was only one slider for heating, without cooling and for the button + button - The buttons would be tactile in the panel.
Of course, but it wouldn't look as cool. 😉
@@3ATIVE You would try to do such a project
@@szybki9465 Maybe. I'll add it the list. 👍
I love the detailed approach, i was realy hoping you would show how it connects up to your actual thermastat
Cool, I'm glad you liked it.
- Not sure what you mean.. this IS the actual thermostat.
How do you connect to the actual heating or cooling system?? Wires coming from the wall like Yellow, White, Orange, Green, Blue, Red, Black…
@@jeffchan6614 I have other ESP devices with relays controlling separate Heaters and AC units.
@@3ATIVE awesome! Would you happen to have a video of that too? Just curious on how to get this to work on my heating system.
@@jeffchan6614 They are nothing special - they are basically SONOFF Basics and just switching Mains. I use HA and the thermostat(s) for the overall control and 'Smart'-ness
Really nice work! I wish my projects looked as tidy and professional. I haven’t considered using those type of grid boards to build devices on before, I will now. You make it looks easy though, I’m sure it’s not! Only thing I’m missing is a 3D printer. Any recommendations? And keep up the great ESP/smart home content
Thanks for the kind words. 👍
My early boards didn't look as good. LOL It just takes time and practice. As with all projects, planning is key and these 'VERO' Boards do take a little bit of extra work, cutting or drilling out the Copper tracks is the hardest thing to get right.
As for 3D Printers, I know some libraries have them available but, there's always 'Maker-Spaces' or friends and I think there's a few people on-line that are willing to help. Failing that, they're not that expensive these days... mine (Ender 3 V2) is only £160 now!
@@3ATIVEThanks I’ll check that out. Is this particular device going to mounted on the wall? Is is made to fit a euro/grid U.K. electrical faceplate for e.g? Im thinking about this as a dimmer switch too?
@@djrosco1982 I've only designed and programmed the Thermostat, I shared the 3D printed front plate and knob as a basis for your own design. So yeah, you could mount in an electrical back-box - with the appropriate modifications.
I did also think about having it as a light dimmer - I may have a go at making one... maybe another tutorial coming soon! 😉
@@3ATIVE : I find the idea to use simple drills to take away the copper layer really great!!! The few boards I created manually had to suffer due to me using knifes and as you might imagine this did not go too well. I got lazy and disappointed over the experience and now I use KiCAD and order the PCB online for small money.
@@uhmasyt Cool, I use EASYEDL and JLCPCD for mine.
See how @Tibo Geenen used this in his project: github.com/r0667002/Tibs-ThermAlarm
Yes I am a heathen, do you know if the same setup works with Fahrenheit?
LOL - Not at all...
Yes, you could easily convert to Fahrenheit, it's a simple sum. F=(C x 9/5) + 32
Brilliant - I've been waiting for this. I was thinking of using an ESP32 instead so I could leverage the BLE support for presence detection and get temperature and humidity values from cheap Xiaomi temperature displays. That way I don't have to rely on temperature inside the enclosure being representative of the room temperature. I was thinking of placing the display close to the room light switch so I can get power from the lighting circuit power supply. Look forward to seeing what you come up with w.r.t. the circuit board.
Cheers Peter. 👍
All good ideas there. I went for a D1 mini for a few reasons, mainly its small size but, an ESP32 would be my first choice for any project with multiple functions too.
@@3ATIVE what about the d1 mini esp32 boards? The size is almost the same but with an esp32 🤔
@@avri210984 the trouble with the D1 Mini ESP32, for me, is the double row of pins. It's quite difficult to use one on VERO board and totally impossible on a 'Bread-Board. Making R&D a pain. :)
Is this project still working in present? if i make this device follow on your tutorial.
There has been some changes to ESPHome the broke this, mainly using a Dallas temperature sensor while running the OLED. I have submitted many GitHub issues but have yet to hear any feedback.
Witam u mnie cos nie działa po podłączeniu oled do esp nie ma komunikacji wifi nie chce się połączyć.
Przepraszam. Zmiany w ESPHome zepsuły ten projekt. 😥
Zgłosiłem to lata temu i nikt tego nie naprawił. Ja też jestem bardzo zdenerwowany, nic nie mogę zrobić
Great project, you've piqued my interest ! Where can i find a list of the components i need for this project? Can someone help me? Please!
Thank you, I'm glad it was inspiring 🥳
All the components are available pretty much everywhere - you'll find all the components on my *Amazon Store page* and the 3D Printer (STL file) from the GitHub page (Both links in the Description)...
Here's a list:
* D1 Mini
* 1.3" OLED Display
* Dallas Temperature Sensor
* Rotary Encoder
@@3ATIVE Thank you for answering!
@@b3y0urs3lf Always. 👍
@@3ATIVE "on_click:- switch.toggle: brightness" doesn't work for me! do you have any idea what can be the problem?
@@b3y0urs3lf code doesn't look right, it should be something like:
On_click:
then:
Switch_toggle:
[your switch]
Check the docs, I'm on my phone ATM, so can't look it up here.
I had a similar Esphome setup, but my problem was that if the ESP would lost the wifi connection the controller wouldn't fallback to the default min max settings
I'm sorry to hear. I hope you get it worked out.
Problem:
'min_idle_time' is a required option for [climate.thermostat].
[hysteresis] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Please check the indentation. hysteresis: 0.2 °C
SSD1306/SH1106 no longer accepts brightness option, please use "contrast" instead.
I'm sure I updated the code for the thermostat after the change. I haven't gotten around to the contrast yet thou.
@@3ATIVE So your project is not working at the moment ????
I've just updated the code on Gitub - Testing and working again.
Thanks for the 'nudge' ❤
Question - instead of using gpio pins to control a wired relay, I'd like to send a HTTP message to a Shelly 1PM device over Wi-Fi to control it, just hooked up to a baseboard heater. Will your project be able to send a HTTP message instead of control the gpio pins?
What kind of message are you sending?
Maybe this would help:
esphome.io/components/http_request.html
If not and if both devices are connected to Home Assistant, then a simple service call would do it.
I didn't want to use home assistant, just the two devices on the same network. Send something like http:192.169.20.20/relay=on
I also only need the thermostat to heat. Can I remove everything in the .yaml that is related to cooler and have it display and work OK as a thermostat?
Beautiful work Dave! I forked a version that displays Fahrenheit for us barbarians in the USA. ;)
Thank you Erica for the kind words. 💞
🤣 'barbarians' - not at, we love our U.S. cousins here.
Very cool! Great work!
Cheers fella - It took a while to make and edit - I hope it's useful and/or helpful.
@@3ATIVE found you on Discord :)
@@NunoSoares22 I don't use it much as I only get DIscord notifications on my phone... 🤬
Aww there you are 'Friend request' accepted. 👍
It is nice to see such a project with good documentation on GitHub and even a proper schematic! I am very much attached to schematics and seeing the Fritzing output lets me kind of shudder.
One thing I still do not comprehend though is the fact that the binary is flashed with an external program onto the chip. I guess this is a Windows related "feature". I myself never leave the ESPHome GUI in order to do the flashing. So maybe someone can "enlighten" me?
Thank you for the feedback, I do try and make all tutorials as comprehensive as I can. 👍
As for flashing, unless the device, in this case a D1 mini is connected to the same 'computer' ESPHome is installed on, you have to download the .BIN file a flash using an additional program - In my case, 'ESPHome Flasher' 😎
- I hope that clears it up for you. 👍
@@3ATIVE - Until recently I had my notebooks (an old one for HA) next to each other and physical access was no problem. ;-) I guess this was making me 'blind'.
I develop on a notebook which is not running HA and for me it became a habit to use the combo ESPHome dashboard / VS code. Especially for initial flashing I take advantage of having VS code enriched with some extensions (vs the 'naked' add-on) on my computer. In addition I use Git push locally and pull on the production side.
Can i use this to controll oven?
Yes. But the temperature sensor used will only measure up to 125c - So, you'll have to redesign to suit.
amazing project!
Thanks, I hope you can make use of it too.
Is it possible to have a neopixel ring around the rotary Knob to reflect the Temprature set as visual indicator say for few seconds & turn off ? I am not a expert in yaml coding, can u post a quick ref code for that or a quick turoeial video for it please?
Sure it's possible. Although, I'm not sure why anyone would want that as the unit has an OLED display for all functions.
@@3ATIVE yes agree, but additional visual feel.
Am looking for sample code to start with as poor in coding. Can you please help to put forward one for users like me. I know it's it's too much ask :)
@@easwaran83 Sorry fella, I don't have time to make projects for individuals. However, it is possible to read the thermostat setting, in this projects' code either: "id(this_thermostat).target_temperature_high" or "id(this_thermostat).target_temperature_low" and use those variables to effect the LED ring.
You should find everything you need here: esphome.io/
@@3ATIVE I totally understand. No problem. I'll try to tinker on ur above comments & try to come up with a solution. Appreciate all your reply.
Is there a parts list?
You'll find most of the parts I used in my Amazon links (In the description).
- The 'Dallas' temperature sensor can be easily found online.
Hello, good video and the content of your youtube channel is very interesting. Good luck for the future. PS if for the next video you could incorporate the subtitles it would be the best especially for a deaf French like me.
ok I'll buy you a coffee. ☕
Thank you for the kind feedback, I am so happy you found my video interesting.
I think TH-cam can do subtitles automatically but, I will certainly look in to making them available. Cheers for the coffee. Merci beaucoup ❤
Hi may you please update the code as it's not working anymore with new version of home assistant
There's nothing I can do, it's changes in ESPHome that causes the issue. I've put in requests for the DEVs to fix it... over a year ago. 😢
@@3ATIVE I'll send them again maybe they will respond
@@abdelrazekshamma3643 Thanks and good luck. 🖖
Great videa, very detailed ho to build. Can you please upload the electric schematic on github ? Maibe we try other solution tu build . And is a litle hard to folow the video and/ or the yaml to get it. Wish you the best
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it.
I have got some custom PCBs on order, that make the whole thing easier to build and more compact, stay tuned for the give-a-way coming soon. In the meantime, as requested... I have added the schematic to the Github page - Enjoy. Let me know what you come up with. ✔
@@3ATIVE Thanks, In the weekend i'll start build one, I prefer to work on schematics.
As i write on FB, after i build one and tested with a small 0.8 inch display, i have received the 1.2inch display but the VCC and GND pins are inverted on the display i have received so is just a warning for other people to be careful. I have not verify the pins order just replace whith tne new and burned.
@@gepettoautomobile I saw that, sorry to hear about it. Maybe try and get a replacement / refund for a faulty item?
@@3ATIVE I have take a look around the net. I found displays with pun no 1 VCC and also with GND on pin no 1. The Chinese are magnific but no rules on this product. So only a litle more attention.
Maybe also other electronics parts have inverted pins. I don't know is just a supozition
If you first time try the code. PLs comment logs: like "# dallas sensor: none", otherwise you will can't find the dallas 18b20's address.
Good call. When I updated the YAML on GitHub, I forgot to re-comment it out. I have now changed it back. Thanks 👍
I got this error information：
[default_preset] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Did you mean [default_mode]?
default_preset: Home [source /config/esphome/thermostat-v3-oled.yaml:97]
[on_boot_restore_from] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Please check the indentation.
on_boot_restore_from: default_preset [source /config/esphome/thermostat-v3-oled.yaml:99]
[preset] is an invalid option for [climate.thermostat]. Please check the indentation.
preset: [source /config/esphome/thermostat-v3-oled.yaml:101]
What version of ESPHome are you running ?
@@3ATIVE Thank you. Once I have upgrade ESPHome 2022.10, It works great.