Hi Everybody! And here is my hardwire installation video th-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/w-d-xo.html and here is my video on how to install Fuse Taps th-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Alex, someone say that Garmin don’t have motion detection in parking mode so Parking Guard is useless. But the Garmin website say “The Garmin Dash Cam saves video footage (both internal and external lens for the Garmin Dash Cam™ Tandem) while in parking mode for 10 seconds before and 20 seconds after detecting motion. If the device detects another incident during this period, it will save 20 additional seconds, starting from the newly-detected motion. This process will continue until the device has saved a 3-minute clip and then a new video file will be saved” So what’sthe truth?
@@viplivesmatter Hi Vip! This will depend on the dash cam model you have. Dash cams have different modes of park monitoring. Some have buffered parking mode (the one you described) but buffered parking mode is somewhat rare. Motion detection is not as rare but I do see it more often than buffered parking mode, specially on dash cams that are equipped with advanced parking monitoring options. Cheers!
@@azclaimjumper Hi AZ! Looks like I missed this comment, I don't recall what fuse amperage I used on this install (I done too many to count LOL) but welcome to the channel!
Well done figuring all that out, and thanks for sharing! Re. 7.10-7-15, might it be easier to make or modify a MINI-USB coupler to put the resister in there instead?
Standard mini USB cable doesn't have 5 wires, only 4, so that important 5:th sense cable for parking mode will be missing. I haven't found any cable you can buy, except Garmin's or other ones that comes with electronics that costs much more, that has a cable connected to the 5:th pin of the mini USB connector. So you will have to buy Garmin's parking cable.
Thank you for explaining dash cams and wirings in a very simplified way. I do have a question about Garmin wiring. I don't seem to see a reason for adding a battery wire. Why not just tap the ACC and ground since the Garmin module has battery saving module anyway?
You're welcome! Ah good question, ACC provides the signal that the car is On or Off and trigger parking monitoring while the 3rd wire (BAT) is used to maintain power to the dash cam while the car off. That being said there are 2 lead hardwire kits out there like this th-cam.com/video/GCKXdGTGbqw/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I just checked and this Garmin hardwire costs 34$!!! It's obvious that the real cost should be around 10 to 15$! This means they make consumers buy rubbish kits twice as expensive as regular ones, for nothing! It is easy to reject these types of brands in 2022. TNX for the review Anyway, in your opinion which one is better, OBD or hard-kit?
Hi ata! yeah and imagine when I bought mine it was close to $60 ouch! lol but to your question about OBD or hard wire, OBD adapter is an quick install but won't enable true parking mode on most dash cams, hard wire does enable parking mode but the install is a lot more involved than the OBD adapter. Not sure if you saw this other video I made covering this in a little more detail th-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun TNX but what does it mean? "won't enable true parking mode on most dash cams" As I've already watched your introduction series about it on your channel, but this is new to me🤔
@@atasafarzadeh7110 Ah yes Parking Mode means that your dashcam will monitor your car when it's parked. If you do not enable parking mode you can still do it by leaving the dash cam on (the dash cam thinks you are still driving) depending on the dash cam and how long you leave it on with the car off, the battery may see a drain, here is a video where I talk about this and how to monitor the car while parked with an OBD adapter th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps bud!
Why would you need to open the housing of the micro USB plug? I would just grab a regular micro USB wire, solder the 3 reqiered pins onto the hard wire kit and add a resistor between the 2 leftover cable. But for this you do need to know the resistance between the data lines. Any chance you can check what the resistance is in your hardwire kit? In any case this is a very good and insightful video, great job!
Hi David! thank you! yeah another viewers suggested that approach as well, which is a great idea! With the connector pitch being so small it's a little hard to get an accurate reading without accessing the component directly but I will try to measure mine and update this comment with what I find, Cheers from California!
@@AlexAutoFun "With the connector pitch being so small it's a little hard to get an accurate reading" I know that feeling. Working with micro USB you will realise that size does matter... and having a small tool isn't all bad ;) On a more serious note: Its easier to measure if you salvage a micro USB port from an old device. In any case if you get it or not, thanks for trying! You're the man!
@@Dev48714 Yeah I think that may be the best way to get a good reading and even test out the idea of adding the resistance required via that same cable..
Regular cables have only 4 wires. I've tried to find a 5 wire one but seems impossible. The 5:th pin works in both directions, for sense in the camera that the cable is attached to enable parking mode features and settings, and to the cable box for sense the signal from the camera that the set parking timer has run out and the box should cut all power. Its probably using a load resistor in the box for the 5:th pin to drop a 5v from the camera to something like 2v and that will indicate to the camera that it is a parking cable attached, and the camera probably drop the voltage to zero when it wants the box to cut the power. There was a schematic somewhere on the net that show the resistor to be 4,7kOhm if I remember it correctly.
The value where actually closer to 33kOhm when I checked my parking cable. The voltage at the ID pin from a camera are down from 5v to 2,5v to indicate that the parking cable are attached. It is something like a 15kOhm load (33k in parallel with 22k) to the ID pin to bring the voltage down to 1,5V (from a Mini2 and 1,8v from a 56) to indicate to the camera that the car have parked. When the parking timer in the camera have run out the camera switch off and will not supply any 5v to its ID pin and the parking cable sense that and switch off the 12v to 5v converter and it only takes 6mA in this off state. So the 5v voltage converter starts when it sees any voltage from the ID pin in the micro USB connector or from the 12v ignition wire.
Warranty be darned. I opened mine up to check out that jumper. Mine was preset to 12v. That's what I was going to move it to. I have a second kit I have yet to check, but I will. EDIT: I have 3 kits. Each was preset to 12v.
Great video. Thank you. Is it fair to say thay the standard wiring kit that plugs into the cigarette lighter juat has two wires? presumably ACC and GND. This kit just adds BAT?
Thank you Andrew! Ah the hardwire kit is different that the power supply that is included with dash cams. In addition to enabling parking mode, there is also (typically) a low voltage cut off to prevent the kit from draining your battery and on Garmin's case there is also a special component to confirm the correct hardwire is actually being used. Here is another video where I cover hardwire kits in more details and what features to look for th-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I cut the end of the power cable off and wired it up with a regulator down to 5v. Didn't work. There must be something in the first part of the adapter as well as the usb connection. Interesting.
How does the parking cable work? How does the camera turn itself on? After some movement detected by the camera? Or does a collision have to take place for the camera come on? What’s the whole point of it?
Hi Fortunate! This will depend on the dash cam you get. Some have one or more: motion detection, impact detection, time lapse (and a rare one is live notification to your phone). Additionally, some let you activate only one mode a time, and some let you combine them. Cheers!
You're welcome Alexander! Ah good question, that would heavily will depend on the car's battery (age, health condition and state of charge) On top of that you also want to take in consideration any parasitic draw from other items on the vehicle that use power when the car is off. This is specially common on newer vehicles. For example I have an older Jeep for example that can sits for months a time with little to no battery draw, then I have a 2017 car that will almost completely drain my battery in a few weeks if the car is not used. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@alexander-malafeev You're welcome! Ah and here is the battery tester I use th-cam.com/video/kCNrfa8RUKU/w-d-xo.html it can also perform a parasitic draw test if needed. Cheers!
Thanks. Very useful info. I installed Garmin hard wire kit yesterday. Everything seems to be working good however it is really shame that they didn't put any of fuse taps for easy installation directly on to the fuse box so I had to just wrap bare copper around fuses... Can you please explain in details how parking guard mode works?
You're welcome Raitis! yeah I really wish they had included standard fuse taps like most hard kits do. Regarding parking mode, how it functions will vary depending on the dash cam you are using. Most support the G-sensor, so the same way the detect a car crash when driving, they can sense a car crash when car is parked, some also have time lapse mode and finally the most advanced have prebuffered video (which records before the impact takes place while parked) like this one th-cam.com/video/SD5AEbR0fLI/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and Cheers!
Hi Juan! The main advantage of the OBD2 adapter is ease of installation. Here is my video showing this th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html And the main advantage of a hardwire kit is that it can enable true parking monitoring on dash cams (where the OBD2 adapter will not enable). And here is my other video th-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/w-d-xo.html where I explain how hard wire kits work and their differences when looking to purchase one. Cheers!
Hi Lloyd! I technically is possible but imo not worth the time and effort, I would rather just get the Garmin kit and save myself some time and work. Cheers!
could I hardwire the parking cable to an additional battery in my camper (12V/300Ah) through the fuse box where all the 12V appliances are connected? I could piggyback on a low watt consumer connection to the 12V fuse box (separate for all the installed 12V consumers in the camper)? which of the wires would I connect to + and - (yellow and red) at the fuse box. Thanks for any feedback
Hi Peter! Ah yes here is my follow up video where I cover how I find ACC and BATT on any car th-cam.com/video/K2iKXj82354/w-d-xo.html However I strongly recommend profession installation due to the dangers mentioned on that video if erroneously tapping a critical system of the vehicle and the dangers involved with air bags mentioned on this video th-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/w-d-xo.html Cheers
@@AlexAutoFun thank you for the quick response. So it is not possible to hardwire the dash cam to a stand alone 12V battery (or a power station) in the car, which is not connected to the car battery?
@peterernst4366 You're welcome Peter! Ah yes it is possible to wire the hardwire kit to a separate battery (as long as it can provide ACC, BAT and GND connections) Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun and how about plugging the camera USB connector into a 12V lighter socket on my power station? There is power as if the car was running, which does not need a hard wiring. If I leave the car, I remove the USB adapter from the car socket and plug it into the socket of my power station
Hi Peter! Ah while I have not tested running one off a power station, I know some people do run their dash cams off a battery pack. However I prefer a normal cigarette lighter adapter or standard hardwire kit since here in my State we experience really hot temperatures which I would not want to subject the battery to, that and the potential for a run away event (fire) during charging or discharging inside the car. Here is an example of a internal dash cam battery and what the sun did to it th-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/w-d-xo.html and a video of battery related fire I personally experienced th-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/w-d-xo.html (destroyed the house) Cheers! @peterernst4366
Hi F! I'm not familiar with the Garmin GPS but you can take a look at the instructions that came with it, it's possible it may show what accessories are compatible with it. Cheers!
You're welcome! Ah I think you are referring to low voltage cut off. Yes this kit has it to reduce the possibility of draining your car's battery. Cheers!
No component needed. All you need to do is short out the 2 data wires in any USB cable and it will work The short is made on the camera side only, you leave the source side disconnected
Hi Ziad! I would be careful if attempting this, there is a resistor place there of a specific value (already discovered by the community) it not a zero ohm resistor. Cheers!
@AlexAutoFun I did this hack long ago on my garmin sat nav and I bet it will work on the cameras too. You are simply connecting the data out to the data in on the camera side of the USB cable, away from the 5v. If the camera receives the same data it sends it will go into charging mode. Might wanna update the community 🤔
@ziadkadi Hi Z! Ah I have not tested the Garmin Sat Nav unit so I can't comment on how that works, this kit is specific for some Garmin dash cams but yes I would recommend joining the forums to share your findings if confirmed (I would not recommend trying this but If someone is willing to risk a hardwire kit and a dash cam I image it could be confirmed if it works or not, the current knowledge is a specific resistance value range). Cheers!
My battery in my daughter's Kia Stonic still goes flat over the course of a week.. If I disconnect the camera connection then it's fine, so I suspect this doesn't work correctly. Will recheck my wiring - if the yellow wire was on a constant power feed rather than accessory maybe this would cause this issue...? If not that maybe I will take a look at the jumper and set it a little higher. - thanks for informing us about that. After that I guess I'll remove it and test it on a bench psu to see what's happening.
Hi kevcal! Correct, the yellow wire should be connected to BATT (constant power all the time) It does sound like the installer should re-check the connections and potentially the low voltage cut off is see to kick in too low. It probably also be good to check the cars battery (I see the case you are describing on car's with a weak battery or a battery that is close to the end of it's life, where any extra load on the battery creates an issue) here is the battery tester I use th-cam.com/video/kCNrfa8RUKU/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Question: Can I attach the Garmin dash cam hardwire kit to a battery pack (e.g., BlackboxMyCar Powercell 8 or Blackvue B-112)? Thank you for your attention and time.
Hi Jean! Ah yes some people do run their dash cams off a battery pack instead of hardwire kit (but remember a battery pack will not enable true park mode). However I prefer a normal cigarette lighter adapter or hardwire kit since here in California we experience really hot temperatures which I would not want to subject the Li-ion battery to, that and the potential for a run away event (fire) during charging or discharging inside the car. Here is an example of a internal dash cam battery and what the sun did to it th-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/w-d-xo.html and a video of battery related fire I personally experienced th-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/w-d-xo.html (destroyed the house) Hope this helps, Cheers!
I want parking mode for my garmin mini 2.Would you recommend this parking cable or the garmin obd2 plug in constant power? I just never have tapped into the fuse.
Hi Jace! I'm not familiar with the Mini 2, but if it's supports the OBD2 adapter, it does simplify the installation process. Here is my video on OBD2 power adapters th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html and here is my video on if it's safe to use them th-cam.com/video/aV5jQovoaCI/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Great vid. Hate all that proprietary stuff that Garmin does so I wouldnt buy their dashcam. I wrote to you b4 on the hardwire kit I got (Plozoe) for 24 bucks for my Wolfbox mirror cam (which because of your reviews bought one) , it's been working great btw. I have a Garmin GPS in my car and wanted to get a lighter plug with 2 usb ports in it so it would power my gps as well as give me more freedom with other devices. I bought the same brand (Plozoe), 24 bucks too. You should check their products .. cheap, long lasting so far.
Thanks Phil! yeah I can't stand proprietary stuff like that either. But yeah I will take a look a Plozoe maybe I can make a video on it, thanks for the tip and cheers from California bud!
I do not blame Garmin for protecting themselves from liability and warrante claims by preventing use of cheap cables. After market chargers and batteries are causing a lot of fires recently.
Hi Bob! Yep, here is an example of a internal dash cam battery in the process of failing th-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/w-d-xo.html and a battery related fire I personally experienced th-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/w-d-xo.html (destroyed the house) Cheers!
I have no use for the parking mode feature, but I do want a hidden install. Do you think if I only connect ground and accessory, it will work like a normal dash cam without park mode?
Hi Olivetti! Most dash cams that require a 3 lead hardwire kit will usually need all 3 wires to be connected in order for the dash cam to work correctly. What I recommend when someone does not need park monitoring, is just to turn it off in the settings menu (most dash cams will let you control this feature). Cheers!
I got the hardwired kit with parking mode for the mini2 for the the rear window. The cable is not long enough to reach back there. I was wondering if a USB extension cable would work. Thanks
Hi ulflyin! it's possible that an extension will work (I had other viewers mention they use them in the past) I would just make sure to get a good brand to ensure all the connections on the extension are populated and that you got large enough wires that can handle the amperage load (some cheaper extensions won't have all connections internally or will use very thin wires). Hope this helps and cheers bud!
Thank you, that was an amazing video. And it was exactly what I was looking for. I have a Garmin 57 and a mini 2 for the rear. Do you know if it would be OK if I took another Garman Micro USB cable and “Y” tapped it to the micro USB coming out of the hardwired kit? To power both dash cams. Thanks
You're welcome ulflyin! Ah regarding running two dash cams of one hardwire kit, it's normally not recommend as the hardwire kit was only designed to output enough power (Amps) for a single dash cam. Hope this helps and Cheers!
You can't buy a Y cable that has all 5 pins connected, there are only 4 pins available, data+ data- power+ and ground- in standard USB cables. You can of course strip the cables and solder in parallel but then it is also a power constrain from the power supply in the box that converts 12v or 24v to 5volt. It can probably handle 1A but a Mini takes 500mA and a 57 takes 650mA while recording and display is on, so that's another potential problem if the total power are more than it can deliver.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Hi urban larsson! you are on a roll today! good info regarding power requirement! Regarding being able to buy cable with 5 connections, they are out there. The USB 2.0 spec does specifies two twisted pairs and overall shield as you mentioned. However I have been able to find USB cables with 5 internal wires, plus drain and shield (which are technically not allowed by the USB 2.0 spec since extensions were originally not permissible but unfortunately used quite commonly in the consumer world) you can see a sample 5 wire USB cable on my recent Vantop video here th-cam.com/video/trpMjXbjOcU/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun That would be really interesting to know where to get that 5 wire cable. In my days I have probably looked at 10 different micro USB cables and only seen 4 wire ones. If I can get a couple of 5 wires one I can build my own switch in a cigg lighter 5v adapter to switch off the power after the park timeout and to give the proper sense to the Mini2 and 56 cameras to start park mode, and don't have to pay $35 that amazon wants for a Garmin parking cable, although it isn't that much consider all the electronics it contains.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Hi urban larsson! I typically find them in the extension cables (which I use to make test cables from) here is the one I used on the video amzn.to/3BziHn6 and here is the equivalent in Micro USB version amzn.to/3BATQQ7 Hope this helps, Cheers!
Great video. So I have the Garmin OBD-II installed to power my Garmin Tandem dashcam, but that doesn't allow the Tandem to enter Park Mode. Garmin says that this hardwire kit must be used. I'd rather use the OBD-II port. Could I take the cable from the hardwire kit and attach it to a male USB end and then run my cam off the OBD-II port? If the only issue is what is inside the head of the cable, it seems like it should work. Not that I want to buy both, but I alread bought the one.
Hi Sly Dog! thanks man, ah regarding your question, not sure if you mean you want to connect the hardwire kit to the OBDII power adapter by splicing them together? The main issue with the OBDII port and adapter is that it does not provide the 2 power sources (ACC and BATT) needed to enable true parking mode. Hope this helps and cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun The Garmin OBD-II port does allow parking mode for some of the Garmin dashcams (according to a chat I had with them.) I know it works for the Mini 2 because that is my rear cam, but Garmin said it also allows parking mode in .. I think the 57, 47 & 67 (they mentioned a number of models with x7 names), but not for the Tandem. So, my thought was to use just the cable that runs from the hardwire parking mode cable kit to the cam. Cut that off and connect a standard male USB end to it which could then be plugged into one of the USB ports on the Garmin OBD-II. If it is only the resistor in the cam-end of the cable that the dashcam responds to in order to enter parking mode, it seems that it would work. (?)
@@slydog7131 Hi Sly Dog! ah what they mean by that is that it can monitor your car while parked like I explain in this video th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html where I explain how it functions and how you must decide on the adapter with the switch how to monitor the car. On true parking mode, the dash cam can do this automatically and more. Since the OBD ports only provides constant power the OBD adapter just keeps the dash cam on all the time (just as Garmin describes on their website). The only OBD adapter with true parking mode is this one amzn.to/3lpOa2c which uses a sensor to detect the change in voltage when the car is on vs off to determine if the car is running or if its off to go into parking mode, but it's only for Thinkware dash cams. So technically yeah you can run the Garming OBD adapter on their supported dash cams with some level of parking mode but limited by the situations I explained on the video. It's weird they said their cable wasn't compatible with the Tandem, according to their website, it is. Hope this makes sense and cheers bud!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks for the careful reply. I watched the other video. With the Garmin OBDII adapter, my Tandem runs in surveillance mode for the length of time selected on the OBDII adapter, just as you covered in the other video. But my Garmin Mini 2, which is connected to the same Garmin OBDII adapter, does NOT run in surveillance mode but rather in its ""Parking Guard" mode: it will record video only when there has been an impact (Garmin took away the motion detection in the Mini 2 due to some overheating issues.) I've done some more reading to understand the issues, somewhat: Garmin differentiates between Parking Guard, which records only when there is an impact, and Parking Mode which records when there is motion or impact. The Garmin dashcams with the Parking Guard feature are the 47, 57, 67W and Mini 2. The cams with Parking Guard will go into that mode when using either the OBDII adapter or the Parking Mode Cable (hardwire kit). The cams with Parking Mode (which records on motion or impact) are the Garmin Tandem, Mini, 66W, 56, 46, 65W, 54/55 and the 45. Those models will only enter Parking Mode when powered by the Garmin Parking Mode Cable. support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=W2sZvbYgkbAee9Y211dMz8 At first, I only had the Garmin Mini 2, and prior to getting the OBDII adapter I contacted Garmin to verify that the OBDII adapter worked with Parking Guard mode with the Mini 2: Me: "Will use of the OBD2 Constant Power Cable allow the Mini 2 to enter parking mode, or is use of the hard-wired cable required?" Garmin: "The constant power cable via the OBD-II port or the Parking Mode Cable will work." As you covered in this video, it seems to be that it is the actual cable that allows the Tandem to enter parking mode, hence my idea of taking that cable and putting a USB end on it to plug into the OBDII port. I suppose I could just let it run in surveillance mode, but I don't really want to risk running down the battery. I have read Amazon reviews for 3rd party OBDII adapters that didn't shut off when the battery declined and drained the battery. I have a 20 amp power bank that will run the Tandem for a little over 24 hours, so it does take a significant draw. If it could be in true parking mode it might last much longer. A 20 amp draw from the car battery feels like too much. For now I just set the OBDII to supply power for 10 minutes so that the Tandem will shut off, but of course that also shuts off the Mini 2 in its Parking Guard mode. Great videos! Thanks for making these.
@@slydog7131 Dude! that is some great research you done here! few people understand what I mean when I say true parking mode (a term I made up LOL) and you nailed it on the head! Thanks for sharing this info again man...
Hi Philip! Yep if you know how to work with electronics, the possibilities are endless. Here is a good soldering iron I used for modding electronics th-cam.com/video/-HfkoG-hEWE/w-d-xo.html That being said I would strongly recommend to stick to the OEM hardwire kit and avoid modification as either could lead to an immediate or latent failure and potentially void warranty coverage as well. Cheers!
Thank you for a video. Wondering does it will work with 57 or mini 2 dash cams? I wanna buy 57 as front camera and mini 2 as rear camera. From your prospective, would I need 2 hard wire kits for installation? I need it for continuous parking mode.
You're welcome Aharon! yes this kit works with the 57 and mini 2 dash cams. That is a neat idea of running a dual camera setup, yep you will need 2 kits if you want to run both cameras. Hope this helps, cheers!
The Garmin Mini2 will go into standby mode by itself after a while and will come to life when there's any movement in front of the camera and begins to record. While it is in standby it takes very little power, can't remember what I measured but it was something like 100mA at 5 volt. If you drive your car at least once a week to charge its battery the camera will drain the car battery for 16AH during a weeks time and will have lots of power left in a normal 50AH battery to start the engine even in cold weather. If you have your car parked unused for no more than 3 days, like in weekends or a holiday, then it drains just 7AH from the battery. If there's lots of activity in front of your parked car it will take more power. I think I measured 500mA while it's recording, and you can do the math. This is if the 12v to 5v converter are a "dumb" one but modern ones, like the parking cable, use an efficient converter circuit and takes less ampere from 12v than what it produces at 5v. So you can use the included power cable with the Mini 2 but will need the parking cable with the 57. I recommend to open up the box and change the turn off voltage to 12v or even 12,3v to still leave some juice left in the car battery.
The 12v to 5v converter that Garmin uses takes half the current from the 12v side to what it delivers at the 5v side. So a 650mA drawn from a 56/57 model are 350mA from the 12v battery. I measured the Mini2 again and it is 300mA at 5v so will be 150mA from the 12v battery while recording. The AH values in my previous comment can be cut to half. The parking cable had no problems powering both a 56 and a Mini2 camera at the same time, 1A. It has some compensation logic inbuilt as the more current it gives the higher the 5V goes to compensate for the voltage drop in the cable that happens when you draw more current thru it. At 1A it is 5,8V out to the micro USB cable compared to 5,2V without a load. Edit: I measured the 12v side and it was 160mA for the Mini2 and when it went into standby mode, I had that set to the shortest 2 hours, it was 16mA with Garmins own 12v to 5v converter. It only responded to vibration or movement to switch on again and turned off after a very short time like 30 sec. If it got two vibrations it went out of standby and where permanently on for the 2 hour switch off time. So it is safe to have the Mini2 connected to permanent 12v power without draining the car battery.
Hey i am looking for the same set up and wanted to know if you could install the mini 2 and 57w with the same kit after all, and if so, how is it working for you thanks! 👍
Hello , I think 11.7 V is much too low to switch off the connection kit, at 11.7V you will have starting problems. Can I move the jumper to 12.4V? another solution could be to only connect the red wire, power after the key ignition , and do not connect the yellow wire, would the dashcam still work? Regards Marc
Hi Mark! Most dash cams that require a 3 lead hardwire kit will usually need all 3 wires to be connected in order for the dash cam to work correctly. What I recommend when someone does not need park monitoring, is just to turn it off in the settings menu (most dash cams will let you control this feature). Cheers!
Alex, thanks for the quick answer, I asked Garmin this question and was told that it could be done by just connecting the red wire, but I don't know if they got it right. I'm going to install my dashcam this week, maybe you can also connect both red and yellow to the same power wire behind the key contact. I can indeed disable parking mode in the menu Regards Marc
Thank you. Because my fuses are in the boot ( Trunk) I bought an extension so the wire couldd reach the dashcam. Now the dash cam stays red permanently ! Maybe this is the reason. It's driving me mad. Why dont Garmin sell an extension cable?
You're welcome Ray! Ah yes I have ran into cars like that where the fuse box is all the way to the trunk. In those cases I'm forced to extend the 2 power wires for the hardwire kit. I haven't tried using an USB extension to extend the USB side instead but that may cause some issues as USB extensions are sometimes not compatible with some devices (It would be nice if Garming offered a hardwire with longer wires but to answer your question I think they don't do this since most of the time they leave this step for installer to do, which is commonly done in install jobs. So it's normally not an issue but for the casual installer who is not doing this all the time I can see this being somewhat of a hassle) Hope this helps, Cheers!
Great explanation, thanks! I don't mind it being proprietary, but I do have a problem with the length of the cable. I can get power/acc/gnd from an overhead console so I really need only a few inches on the power side, and maybe a foot on the usb side. Is it possible to shorten the wires & reposition the square grommets?
Thanks Justin! ah yes it technically is possible (with experience on disassembly of electronics and soldering if removing the wires from the PCBA to shorten them or with crimping like I show on this video th-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/w-d-xo.html ) However installers usually just tuck the excess wire length in a pocket of the vehicles (this varies from car to car and installer preference of where to tuck the excess cable) Hope this helps!
Hey, how you going? I bought a dash cam model Azdome m550. I just installed the hardware kit to record 24/7. I wonder why it is necessary to connect ACC and BAT wires if BAT wire contains power always for supply the camera. Is there any configuration that I am missing in the camera?
Hi fseelectronicos! as explained in the in the video the ACC wire serves a different function than the BATT wire. Without the ACC wire the dash cam will not know that the car has been turned off and will not enter parking mode (there are dash cams out there that use a 2 wire hardwire kit but those do not enter true parking mode) stay tuned I have a video where I cover this in more detail. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Would it be possible to place the resistor at the other end of a generic USB cable to enable the Parking mode? Since the wires would be exposed it would be easy. Do you know the value of this resistor?
Hi Make Fit Department! ah yes technically it would work on the other side as long as the wires on the cable has all wires connected on both ends, some USB cables don't populate all wires to reduce cost (non USB Standard compliant cables) For the value I have heard as low as 12ohm and as high as 30ohm so I can't say for sure (but I will update this comment once I actual take measurements from mine, super tiny connector ouch lol) Hope this helps, Cheers!
It's 33kOhm to indicate that a cable are connected and enable the parking settings in the camera. It's 15kOhm to enable the cameras parking mode. What you can do are to take a resistor between 1k up to 4,7k and connect to the cameras ID pin and at the other end of the resistor connect a diode, 1N914 1N4148 any diode will do, with its catode, where it points to, to the ignition voltage. Then when the ignition are turned off and goes to 0 volt it will pull that resistor to ground, minus 0,7 volt, and will indicate to the camera to start its parking timer. Then remember that the parking settings in the camera are only available when you have the ignition off.
Hello how do i get this to work with my dual battery? I have the black and yellow connected but not the red acc but it enters parking mode and wont get out of it and says turn on the ignition which wont do anything because the acc is disconnected, i want to use the parking guard feature as its better for me. But i cant get access because of parking mode being on. How do i get this to work so i dont have to use the parking mode being controlled with the ignition as im using my dual battery...?
Hi Locke! All 3 wires must be connected in order for the hardwire kit to work correctly. Here is my follow up video showing that process th-cam.com/video/K2iKXj82354/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks for the tips in video! But unfortunately it didn’t confirm initially what I was after, I then realised the solution to my issue was simple which was that I remembered that my sub amp has a toggle wire that I can control with a switch to turn it on and off usually via the head unit or ignition and in this case its the same but I don’t need to toggle it, the acc is just a toggle signal wire... connecting the red and bat wire together on positive of the bat will make it always on and thats what I want. And to just use the parking guard which is fine as I don’t need random footage while it’s parked... only incidents and I’m not taping into the ignition since I’m using a dual battery in the rear to constantly power my dash cam. I have a lot of experience in hobby electrical work but this initially stumped me (wasn’t thinking straight after work ahaha) as my previous hardwire kit from another brand had the same 3 wires and didn’t have the issues I had.
Hello from Alberta. I tried to hardwire a Garmin drive assist 51 in my 350Z with a generic kit from Amazon. Of course I got the error messages. Do you know of any kits, whether OBD or fuse tap, that will function with the 51?
Hi Bluesbarrister QC! yeah unfortunately there are no known kits that will not trigger an error on the Garmin due the proprietary nature of the kit (as shown in this video) But if I do hear of one I will let you know!
Hi Alexander! Ah that would depend on the dash cam your are using it with. Most will let you turn off park monitoring mode in their menu but a few don't. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@alexander-malafeev Hi Alexander, turning off park monitoring is separate from the low voltage cut off built in the hardwire kit. However turning off park monitoring will dramatically reduce power consumption since the dash cam won't be monitoring your car while parked. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi snk7! I think you are referring to loop recording. All dash cams record loop recording, the camera is always recording but the recording is segmented into sections, 3 mins is the typical segment length (my preferred choice actually) I do have another video coming where I explain loop recording in detail, stay tuned for that bud!
Hi Isaac! Correct, the fuse tap is only needed if the installer wants to tap the fuse box for power instead of connecting the wires to the car's wiring via soldering or splicing. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@mrmonday42 Hi Isaac! While I seen a few people do it that way, most installers won't install it like that due to concerns with reliability, safety and warranty (Both on the dash cam side and on the installers side). Fuse taps will normally be used if the owners want a reversible installation, here's how fuse taps are attached to the kit th-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/w-d-xo.html or they will solder or splice the wires directly to the cars wiring if the owner wants a permanent installation and does not mind having their wiring cut into (video on the soldering splice method coming, stay tuned). Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Herohobo! I think that is the real advantage of kits that have an adjustable low voltage cut off. Being able to decide when it's too low or too high. Cheers!
Hi Starman! Ah yes, I am often wrong! lol However on this case the yellow wire (BAT) going into the PTH with the silkscreen on the PCB showing"#4 ID", not sure where your are seeing "data". However the component that activates parking mode, has been identified since (it's just a simple resistor) Cheers!
Hi Everybody! And here is my hardwire installation video th-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/w-d-xo.html and here is my video on how to install Fuse Taps th-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
New Subscriber & I rang the notification bell.
How many amps were the two fuses you used?
Hi Alex,
someone say that Garmin don’t have motion detection in parking mode so Parking Guard is useless.
But the Garmin website say
“The Garmin Dash Cam saves video footage (both internal and external lens for the Garmin Dash Cam™ Tandem) while in parking mode for 10 seconds before and 20 seconds after detecting motion. If the device detects another incident during this period, it will save 20 additional seconds, starting from the newly-detected motion. This process will continue until the device has saved a 3-minute clip and then a new video file will be saved”
So what’sthe truth?
@@viplivesmatter Go with what Garmin says on their website - No Brainer!
@@viplivesmatter Hi Vip! This will depend on the dash cam model you have. Dash cams have different modes of park monitoring. Some have buffered parking mode (the one you described) but buffered parking mode is somewhat rare. Motion detection is not as rare but I do see it more often than buffered parking mode, specially on dash cams that are equipped with advanced parking monitoring options. Cheers!
@@azclaimjumper Hi AZ! Looks like I missed this comment, I don't recall what fuse amperage I used on this install (I done too many to count LOL) but welcome to the channel!
I’m glad they made this, because it helps the battery from draining
Yep, exactly. Cheers Andrew!
your video was the most helpful i could find and the tip with the fuse tap kit is priceless, thanks!
You're welcome and thank you Nightwalk3r!
Thank you and best regards from Zurich 🇨🇭
You're welcome Александар and Cheers from California!
Well done figuring all that out, and thanks for sharing! Re. 7.10-7-15, might it be easier to make or modify a MINI-USB coupler to put the resister in there instead?
Ohhhh man I didn't think about that! a in between coupler would probably be the best way to introduce a resistor into this, great idea!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks very much :)
Yeah he figured it all that out & talked about it for ages & then had no solution lol
Standard mini USB cable doesn't have 5 wires, only 4, so that important 5:th sense cable for parking mode will be missing. I haven't found any cable you can buy, except Garmin's or other ones that comes with electronics that costs much more, that has a cable connected to the 5:th pin of the mini USB connector. So you will have to buy Garmin's parking cable.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this excellent video. You can explain things very well! I learned something new!
You're welcome A P! and thank you, Glad to hear it helped!
Thank you for explaining dash cams and wirings in a very simplified way. I do have a question about Garmin wiring. I don't seem to see a reason for adding a battery wire. Why not just tap the ACC and ground since the Garmin module has battery saving module anyway?
You're welcome! Ah good question, ACC provides the signal that the car is On or Off and trigger parking monitoring while the 3rd wire (BAT) is used to maintain power to the dash cam while the car off. That being said there are 2 lead hardwire kits out there like this th-cam.com/video/GCKXdGTGbqw/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun thank you sir!
You're welcome friend!@@GTMBleach
first actually helpful video on how to install
Thanks Billy!
I just checked and this Garmin hardwire costs 34$!!! It's obvious that the real cost should be around 10 to 15$!
This means they make consumers buy rubbish kits twice as expensive as regular ones, for nothing! It is easy to reject these types of brands in 2022.
TNX for the review
Anyway, in your opinion which one is better, OBD or hard-kit?
Hi ata! yeah and imagine when I bought mine it was close to $60 ouch! lol but to your question about OBD or hard wire, OBD adapter is an quick install but won't enable true parking mode on most dash cams, hard wire does enable parking mode but the install is a lot more involved than the OBD adapter. Not sure if you saw this other video I made covering this in a little more detail th-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun TNX but what does it mean? "won't enable true parking mode on most dash cams"
As I've already watched your introduction series about it on your channel, but this is new to me🤔
@@atasafarzadeh7110 Ah yes Parking Mode means that your dashcam will monitor your car when it's parked. If you do not enable parking mode you can still do it by leaving the dash cam on (the dash cam thinks you are still driving) depending on the dash cam and how long you leave it on with the car off, the battery may see a drain, here is a video where I talk about this and how to monitor the car while parked with an OBD adapter th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps bud!
Why would you need to open the housing of the micro USB plug? I would just grab a regular micro USB wire, solder the 3 reqiered pins onto the hard wire kit and add a resistor between the 2 leftover cable. But for this you do need to know the resistance between the data lines. Any chance you can check what the resistance is in your hardwire kit? In any case this is a very good and insightful video, great job!
Hi David! thank you! yeah another viewers suggested that approach as well, which is a great idea! With the connector pitch being so small it's a little hard to get an accurate reading without accessing the component directly but I will try to measure mine and update this comment with what I find, Cheers from California!
@@AlexAutoFun "With the connector pitch being so small it's a little hard to get an accurate reading" I know that feeling. Working with micro USB you will realise that size does matter... and having a small tool isn't all bad ;) On a more serious note: Its easier to measure if you salvage a micro USB port from an old device. In any case if you get it or not, thanks for trying! You're the man!
@@Dev48714 Yeah I think that may be the best way to get a good reading and even test out the idea of adding the resistance required via that same cable..
Regular cables have only 4 wires. I've tried to find a 5 wire one but seems impossible. The 5:th pin works in both directions, for sense in the camera that the cable is attached to enable parking mode features and settings, and to the cable box for sense the signal from the camera that the set parking timer has run out and the box should cut all power. Its probably using a load resistor in the box for the 5:th pin to drop a 5v from the camera to something like 2v and that will indicate to the camera that it is a parking cable attached, and the camera probably drop the voltage to zero when it wants the box to cut the power. There was a schematic somewhere on the net that show the resistor to be 4,7kOhm if I remember it correctly.
The value where actually closer to 33kOhm when I checked my parking cable. The voltage at the ID pin from a camera are down from 5v to 2,5v to indicate that the parking cable are attached. It is something like a 15kOhm load (33k in parallel with 22k) to the ID pin to bring the voltage down to 1,5V (from a Mini2 and 1,8v from a 56) to indicate to the camera that the car have parked. When the parking timer in the camera have run out the camera switch off and will not supply any 5v to its ID pin and the parking cable sense that and switch off the 12v to 5v converter and it only takes 6mA in this off state.
So the 5v voltage converter starts when it sees any voltage from the ID pin in the micro USB connector or from the 12v ignition wire.
Awesome video; thank you for sharing!
You're welcome Brian and thank you!
Warranty be darned. I opened mine up to check out that jumper. Mine was preset to 12v. That's what I was going to move it to. I have a second kit I have yet to check, but I will.
EDIT: I have 3 kits. Each was preset to 12v.
LOL!
Interesting, thanks for confirming Stanton, this definitely confirms the factory default setting..
Great video. Thank you. Is it fair to say thay the standard wiring kit that plugs into the cigarette lighter juat has two wires? presumably ACC and GND. This kit just adds BAT?
Thank you Andrew! Ah the hardwire kit is different that the power supply that is included with dash cams. In addition to enabling parking mode, there is also (typically) a low voltage cut off to prevent the kit from draining your battery and on Garmin's case there is also a special component to confirm the correct hardwire is actually being used. Here is another video where I cover hardwire kits in more details and what features to look for th-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I cut the end of the power cable off and wired it up with a regulator down to 5v. Didn't work. There must be something in the first part of the adapter as well as the usb connection. Interesting.
Espectacular video e información!!!! Es oro puro!!
Saludos desde la ciudad de Valdivia, en el sur de Chile
Thank you Comentarista de TH-cam! I appreciate that! Cheers from California!
I opened up the black box on my garmin cable. The jumper was on the 12v position.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing, Cheers!
How does the parking cable work?
How does the camera turn itself on?
After some movement detected by the camera?
Or does a collision have to take place for the camera come on?
What’s the whole point of it?
Hi Fortunate! This will depend on the dash cam you get. Some have one or more: motion detection, impact detection, time lapse (and a rare one is live notification to your phone). Additionally, some let you activate only one mode a time, and some let you combine them. Cheers!
Thanks for the video!
How long would it take for the battery to go to 11.7 volts in parking mode if car is not used?
You're welcome Alexander! Ah good question, that would heavily will depend on the car's battery (age, health condition and state of charge) On top of that you also want to take in consideration any parasitic draw from other items on the vehicle that use power when the car is off. This is specially common on newer vehicles. For example I have an older Jeep for example that can sits for months a time with little to no battery draw, then I have a 2017 car that will almost completely drain my battery in a few weeks if the car is not used. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks!
@@alexander-malafeev You're welcome! Ah and here is the battery tester I use th-cam.com/video/kCNrfa8RUKU/w-d-xo.html it can also perform a parasitic draw test if needed. Cheers!
Thanks. Very useful info.
I installed Garmin hard wire kit yesterday.
Everything seems to be working good however it is really shame that they didn't put any of fuse taps for easy installation directly on to the fuse box so I had to just wrap bare copper around fuses...
Can you please explain in details how parking guard mode works?
You're welcome Raitis! yeah I really wish they had included standard fuse taps like most hard kits do. Regarding parking mode, how it functions will vary depending on the dash cam you are using. Most support the G-sensor, so the same way the detect a car crash when driving, they can sense a car crash when car is parked, some also have time lapse mode and finally the most advanced have prebuffered video (which records before the impact takes place while parked) like this one th-cam.com/video/SD5AEbR0fLI/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and Cheers!
What is the difference between that cable and the OBD2, and what's better?
Hi Juan! The main advantage of the OBD2 adapter is ease of installation. Here is my video showing this th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html And the main advantage of a hardwire kit is that it can enable true parking monitoring on dash cams (where the OBD2 adapter will not enable). And here is my other video th-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/w-d-xo.html where I explain how hard wire kits work and their differences when looking to purchase one. Cheers!
could you adapt a standard hardwire kit and use a standard USB cable, then add the resistor in the power block at the cut end of the usb cable?
Hi Lloyd! I technically is possible but imo not worth the time and effort, I would rather just get the Garmin kit and save myself some time and work. Cheers!
Good video thank you.
You're welcome fred and thank you!
Thanks a lot!!!
You're welcome N G! Cheers!
Hi, great video. Will this work with 67w?
Thank you Anish! correct this is will work with the 67W. Hope this helps and cheers!
could I hardwire the parking cable to an additional battery in my camper (12V/300Ah) through the fuse box where all the 12V appliances are connected? I could piggyback on a low watt consumer connection to the 12V fuse box (separate for all the installed 12V consumers in the camper)? which of the wires would I connect to + and - (yellow and red) at the fuse box. Thanks for any feedback
Hi Peter! Ah yes here is my follow up video where I cover how I find ACC and BATT on any car th-cam.com/video/K2iKXj82354/w-d-xo.html However I strongly recommend profession installation due to the dangers mentioned on that video if erroneously tapping a critical system of the vehicle and the dangers involved with air bags mentioned on this video th-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/w-d-xo.html Cheers
@@AlexAutoFun thank you for the quick response. So it is not possible to hardwire the dash cam to a stand alone 12V battery (or a power station) in the car, which is not connected to the car battery?
@peterernst4366 You're welcome Peter! Ah yes it is possible to wire the hardwire kit to a separate battery (as long as it can provide ACC, BAT and GND connections) Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun and how about plugging the camera USB connector into a 12V lighter socket on my power station? There is power as if the car was running, which does not need a hard wiring.
If I leave the car, I remove the USB adapter from the car socket and plug it into the socket of my power station
Hi Peter! Ah while I have not tested running one off a power station, I know some people do run their dash cams off a battery pack. However I prefer a normal cigarette lighter adapter or standard hardwire kit since here in my State we experience really hot temperatures which I would not want to subject the battery to, that and the potential for a run away event (fire) during charging or discharging inside the car. Here is an example of a internal dash cam battery and what the sun did to it th-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/w-d-xo.html and a video of battery related fire I personally experienced th-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/w-d-xo.html (destroyed the house) Cheers! @peterernst4366
Will this work for a Garmin GPS as well?
Hi F! I'm not familiar with the Garmin GPS but you can take a look at the instructions that came with it, it's possible it may show what accessories are compatible with it. Cheers!
thanks for the video. Does the parking mode cable protect the battery drainage?
You're welcome! Ah I think you are referring to low voltage cut off. Yes this kit has it to reduce the possibility of draining your car's battery. Cheers!
No component needed. All you need to do is short out the 2 data wires in any USB cable and it will work The short is made on the camera side only, you leave the source side disconnected
Hi Ziad! I would be careful if attempting this, there is a resistor place there of a specific value (already discovered by the community) it not a zero ohm resistor. Cheers!
@AlexAutoFun I did this hack long ago on my garmin sat nav and I bet it will work on the cameras too. You are simply connecting the data out to the data in on the camera side of the USB cable, away from the 5v. If the camera receives the same data it sends it will go into charging mode. Might wanna update the community 🤔
@ziadkadi Hi Z! Ah I have not tested the Garmin Sat Nav unit so I can't comment on how that works, this kit is specific for some Garmin dash cams but yes I would recommend joining the forums to share your findings if confirmed (I would not recommend trying this but If someone is willing to risk a hardwire kit and a dash cam I image it could be confirmed if it works or not, the current knowledge is a specific resistance value range). Cheers!
perfect guide
Thank you QualityTube!
Excellent video, very well described, new subscriber
Thanks Eoghan! appreciate the sub my friend!
My battery in my daughter's Kia Stonic still goes flat over the course of a week.. If I disconnect the camera connection then it's fine, so I suspect this doesn't work correctly.
Will recheck my wiring - if the yellow wire was on a constant power feed rather than accessory maybe this would cause this issue...?
If not that maybe I will take a look at the jumper and set it a little higher. - thanks for informing us about that. After that I guess I'll remove it and test it on a bench psu to see what's happening.
Hi kevcal! Correct, the yellow wire should be connected to BATT (constant power all the time) It does sound like the installer should re-check the connections and potentially the low voltage cut off is see to kick in too low. It probably also be good to check the cars battery (I see the case you are describing on car's with a weak battery or a battery that is close to the end of it's life, where any extra load on the battery creates an issue) here is the battery tester I use th-cam.com/video/kCNrfa8RUKU/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Question: Can I attach the Garmin dash cam hardwire kit to a battery pack (e.g., BlackboxMyCar Powercell 8 or Blackvue B-112)? Thank you for your attention and time.
Hi Jean! Ah yes some people do run their dash cams off a battery pack instead of hardwire kit (but remember a battery pack will not enable true park mode). However I prefer a normal cigarette lighter adapter or hardwire kit since here in California we experience really hot temperatures which I would not want to subject the Li-ion battery to, that and the potential for a run away event (fire) during charging or discharging inside the car. Here is an example of a internal dash cam battery and what the sun did to it th-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/w-d-xo.html and a video of battery related fire I personally experienced th-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/w-d-xo.html (destroyed the house) Hope this helps, Cheers!
I want parking mode for my garmin mini 2.Would you recommend this parking cable or the garmin obd2 plug in constant power? I just never have tapped into the fuse.
Hi Jace! I'm not familiar with the Mini 2, but if it's supports the OBD2 adapter, it does simplify the installation process. Here is my video on OBD2 power adapters th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html and here is my video on if it's safe to use them th-cam.com/video/aV5jQovoaCI/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Great vid. Hate all that proprietary stuff that Garmin does so I wouldnt buy their dashcam. I wrote to you b4 on the hardwire kit I got (Plozoe) for 24 bucks for my Wolfbox mirror cam (which because of your reviews bought one) , it's been working great btw. I have a Garmin GPS in my car and wanted to get a lighter plug with 2 usb ports in it so it would power my gps as well as give me more freedom with other devices. I bought the same brand (Plozoe), 24 bucks too. You should check their products .. cheap, long lasting so far.
Thanks Phil! yeah I can't stand proprietary stuff like that either. But yeah I will take a look a Plozoe maybe I can make a video on it, thanks for the tip and cheers from California bud!
@@AlexAutoFun Cheers from Ontario Canada! for now, moving to Moncton area , New Brunswick in a month.
I do not blame Garmin for protecting themselves from liability and warrante claims by preventing use of cheap cables. After market chargers and batteries are causing a lot of fires recently.
Hi Bob! Yep, here is an example of a internal dash cam battery in the process of failing th-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/w-d-xo.html and a battery related fire I personally experienced th-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/w-d-xo.html (destroyed the house) Cheers!
I have no use for the parking mode feature, but I do want a hidden install. Do you think if I only connect ground and accessory, it will work like a normal dash cam without park mode?
Hi Olivetti! Most dash cams that require a 3 lead hardwire kit will usually need all 3 wires to be connected in order for the dash cam to work correctly. What I recommend when someone does not need park monitoring, is just to turn it off in the settings menu (most dash cams will let you control this feature). Cheers!
I got the hardwired kit with parking mode for the mini2 for the the rear window. The cable is not long enough to reach back there. I was wondering if a USB extension cable would work.
Thanks
Hi ulflyin! it's possible that an extension will work (I had other viewers mention they use them in the past) I would just make sure to get a good brand to ensure all the connections on the extension are populated and that you got large enough wires that can handle the amperage load (some cheaper extensions won't have all connections internally or will use very thin wires). Hope this helps and cheers bud!
Thank you, that was an amazing video. And it was exactly what I was looking for. I have a Garmin 57 and a mini 2 for the rear. Do you know if it would be OK if I took another Garman Micro USB cable and “Y” tapped it to the micro USB coming out of the hardwired kit?
To power both dash cams.
Thanks
You're welcome ulflyin! Ah regarding running two dash cams of one hardwire kit, it's normally not recommend as the hardwire kit was only designed to output enough power (Amps) for a single dash cam. Hope this helps and Cheers!
You can't buy a Y cable that has all 5 pins connected, there are only 4 pins available, data+ data- power+ and ground- in standard USB cables. You can of course strip the cables and solder in parallel but then it is also a power constrain from the power supply in the box that converts 12v or 24v to 5volt. It can probably handle 1A but a Mini takes 500mA and a 57 takes 650mA while recording and display is on, so that's another potential problem if the total power are more than it can deliver.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Hi urban larsson! you are on a roll today! good info regarding power requirement! Regarding being able to buy cable with 5 connections, they are out there. The USB 2.0 spec does specifies two twisted pairs and overall shield as you mentioned. However I have been able to find USB cables with 5 internal wires, plus drain and shield (which are technically not allowed by the USB 2.0 spec since extensions were originally not permissible but unfortunately used quite commonly in the consumer world) you can see a sample 5 wire USB cable on my recent Vantop video here th-cam.com/video/trpMjXbjOcU/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun That would be really interesting to know where to get that 5 wire cable. In my days I have probably looked at 10 different micro USB cables and only seen 4 wire ones. If I can get a couple of 5 wires one I can build my own switch in a cigg lighter 5v adapter to switch off the power after the park timeout and to give the proper sense to the Mini2 and 56 cameras to start park mode, and don't have to pay $35 that amazon wants for a Garmin parking cable, although it isn't that much consider all the electronics it contains.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Hi urban larsson! I typically find them in the extension cables (which I use to make test cables from) here is the one I used on the video amzn.to/3BziHn6 and here is the equivalent in Micro USB version amzn.to/3BATQQ7 Hope this helps, Cheers!
Great video. So I have the Garmin OBD-II installed to power my Garmin Tandem dashcam, but that doesn't allow the Tandem to enter Park Mode. Garmin says that this hardwire kit must be used. I'd rather use the OBD-II port. Could I take the cable from the hardwire kit and attach it to a male USB end and then run my cam off the OBD-II port? If the only issue is what is inside the head of the cable, it seems like it should work. Not that I want to buy both, but I alread bought the one.
Hi Sly Dog! thanks man, ah regarding your question, not sure if you mean you want to connect the hardwire kit to the OBDII power adapter by splicing them together? The main issue with the OBDII port and adapter is that it does not provide the 2 power sources (ACC and BATT) needed to enable true parking mode. Hope this helps and cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun The Garmin OBD-II port does allow parking mode for some of the Garmin dashcams (according to a chat I had with them.) I know it works for the Mini 2 because that is my rear cam, but Garmin said it also allows parking mode in .. I think the 57, 47 & 67 (they mentioned a number of models with x7 names), but not for the Tandem. So, my thought was to use just the cable that runs from the hardwire parking mode cable kit to the cam. Cut that off and connect a standard male USB end to it which could then be plugged into one of the USB ports on the Garmin OBD-II. If it is only the resistor in the cam-end of the cable that the dashcam responds to in order to enter parking mode, it seems that it would work. (?)
@@slydog7131 Hi Sly Dog! ah what they mean by that is that it can monitor your car while parked like I explain in this video th-cam.com/video/YEklm9V6xYE/w-d-xo.html where I explain how it functions and how you must decide on the adapter with the switch how to monitor the car. On true parking mode, the dash cam can do this automatically and more. Since the OBD ports only provides constant power the OBD adapter just keeps the dash cam on all the time (just as Garmin describes on their website). The only OBD adapter with true parking mode is this one amzn.to/3lpOa2c which uses a sensor to detect the change in voltage when the car is on vs off to determine if the car is running or if its off to go into parking mode, but it's only for Thinkware dash cams. So technically yeah you can run the Garming OBD adapter on their supported dash cams with some level of parking mode but limited by the situations I explained on the video. It's weird they said their cable wasn't compatible with the Tandem, according to their website, it is. Hope this makes sense and cheers bud!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks for the careful reply. I watched the other video. With the Garmin OBDII adapter, my Tandem runs in surveillance mode for the length of time selected on the OBDII adapter, just as you covered in the other video. But my Garmin Mini 2, which is connected to the same Garmin OBDII adapter, does NOT run in surveillance mode but rather in its ""Parking Guard" mode: it will record video only when there has been an impact (Garmin took away the motion detection in the Mini 2 due to some overheating issues.) I've done some more reading to understand the issues, somewhat:
Garmin differentiates between Parking Guard, which records only when there is an impact, and Parking Mode which records when there is motion or impact.
The Garmin dashcams with the Parking Guard feature are the 47, 57, 67W and Mini 2. The cams with Parking Guard will go into that mode when using either the OBDII adapter or the Parking Mode Cable (hardwire kit).
The cams with Parking Mode (which records on motion or impact) are the Garmin Tandem, Mini, 66W, 56, 46, 65W, 54/55 and the 45. Those models will only enter Parking Mode when powered by the Garmin Parking Mode Cable.
support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=W2sZvbYgkbAee9Y211dMz8
At first, I only had the Garmin Mini 2, and prior to getting the OBDII adapter I contacted Garmin to verify that the OBDII adapter worked with Parking Guard mode with the Mini 2:
Me: "Will use of the OBD2 Constant Power Cable allow the Mini 2 to enter parking mode, or is use of the hard-wired cable required?"
Garmin: "The constant power cable via the OBD-II port or the Parking Mode Cable will work."
As you covered in this video, it seems to be that it is the actual cable that allows the Tandem to enter parking mode, hence my idea of taking that cable and putting a USB end on it to plug into the OBDII port. I suppose I could just let it run in surveillance mode, but I don't really want to risk running down the battery. I have read Amazon reviews for 3rd party OBDII adapters that didn't shut off when the battery declined and drained the battery. I have a 20 amp power bank that will run the Tandem for a little over 24 hours, so it does take a significant draw. If it could be in true parking mode it might last much longer. A 20 amp draw from the car battery feels like too much. For now I just set the OBDII to supply power for 10 minutes so that the Tandem will shut off, but of course that also shuts off the Mini 2 in its Parking Guard mode. Great videos! Thanks for making these.
@@slydog7131 Dude! that is some great research you done here! few people understand what I mean when I say true parking mode (a term I made up LOL) and you nailed it on the head! Thanks for sharing this info again man...
You could unsolder the wire and put it in another power supply.
Hi Philip! Yep if you know how to work with electronics, the possibilities are endless. Here is a good soldering iron I used for modding electronics th-cam.com/video/-HfkoG-hEWE/w-d-xo.html That being said I would strongly recommend to stick to the OEM hardwire kit and avoid modification as either could lead to an immediate or latent failure and potentially void warranty coverage as well. Cheers!
Thank you for a video. Wondering does it will work with 57 or mini 2 dash cams?
I wanna buy 57 as front camera and mini 2 as rear camera. From your prospective, would I need 2 hard wire kits for installation? I need it for continuous parking mode.
You're welcome Aharon! yes this kit works with the 57 and mini 2 dash cams. That is a neat idea of running a dual camera setup, yep you will need 2 kits if you want to run both cameras. Hope this helps, cheers!
The Garmin Mini2 will go into standby mode by itself after a while and will come to life when there's any movement in front of the camera and begins to record. While it is in standby it takes very little power, can't remember what I measured but it was something like 100mA at 5 volt. If you drive your car at least once a week to charge its battery the camera will drain the car battery for 16AH during a weeks time and will have lots of power left in a normal 50AH battery to start the engine even in cold weather. If you have your car parked unused for no more than 3 days, like in weekends or a holiday, then it drains just 7AH from the battery. If there's lots of activity in front of your parked car it will take more power. I think I measured 500mA while it's recording, and you can do the math. This is if the 12v to 5v converter are a "dumb" one but modern ones, like the parking cable, use an efficient converter circuit and takes less ampere from 12v than what it produces at 5v.
So you can use the included power cable with the Mini 2 but will need the parking cable with the 57. I recommend to open up the box and change the turn off voltage to 12v or even 12,3v to still leave some juice left in the car battery.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Thanks for sharing this info urban larsson!
The 12v to 5v converter that Garmin uses takes half the current from the 12v side to what it delivers at the 5v side. So a 650mA drawn from a 56/57 model are 350mA from the 12v battery. I measured the Mini2 again and it is 300mA at 5v so will be 150mA from the 12v battery while recording. The AH values in my previous comment can be cut to half. The parking cable had no problems powering both a 56 and a Mini2 camera at the same time, 1A. It has some compensation logic inbuilt as the more current it gives the higher the 5V goes to compensate for the voltage drop in the cable that happens when you draw more current thru it. At 1A it is 5,8V out to the micro USB cable compared to 5,2V without a load.
Edit: I measured the 12v side and it was 160mA for the Mini2 and when it went into standby mode, I had that set to the shortest 2 hours, it was 16mA with Garmins own 12v to 5v converter. It only responded to vibration or movement to switch on again and turned off after a very short time like 30 sec. If it got two vibrations it went out of standby and where permanently on for the 2 hour switch off time. So it is safe to have the Mini2 connected to permanent 12v power without draining the car battery.
Hey i am looking for the same set up and wanted to know if you could install the mini 2 and 57w with the same kit after all, and if so, how is it working for you thanks! 👍
Hello , I think 11.7 V is much too low to switch off the connection kit, at 11.7V you will have starting problems.
Can I move the jumper to 12.4V?
another solution could be to only connect the red wire, power after the key ignition , and do not connect the yellow wire, would the dashcam still work? Regards Marc
Hi Mark! Most dash cams that require a 3 lead hardwire kit will usually need all 3 wires to be connected in order for the dash cam to work correctly. What I recommend when someone does not need park monitoring, is just to turn it off in the settings menu (most dash cams will let you control this feature). Cheers!
Alex, thanks for the quick answer, I asked Garmin this question and was told that it could be done by just connecting the red wire, but I don't know if they got it right.
I'm going to install my dashcam this week, maybe you can also connect both red and yellow to the same power wire behind the key contact.
I can indeed disable parking mode in the menu
Regards Marc
You're welcome Mark! @@marcvanbos2360
Thank you. Because my fuses are in the boot ( Trunk) I bought an extension so the wire couldd reach the dashcam. Now the dash cam stays red permanently ! Maybe this is the reason. It's driving me mad. Why dont Garmin sell an extension cable?
You're welcome Ray! Ah yes I have ran into cars like that where the fuse box is all the way to the trunk. In those cases I'm forced to extend the 2 power wires for the hardwire kit. I haven't tried using an USB extension to extend the USB side instead but that may cause some issues as USB extensions are sometimes not compatible with some devices (It would be nice if Garming offered a hardwire with longer wires but to answer your question I think they don't do this since most of the time they leave this step for installer to do, which is commonly done in install jobs. So it's normally not an issue but for the casual installer who is not doing this all the time I can see this being somewhat of a hassle) Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Many thanks. I may have to extend the wire itself. We will prevail!
@@raysmith2940 You're welcome Ray!
Great explanation, thanks! I don't mind it being proprietary, but I do have a problem with the length of the cable. I can get power/acc/gnd from an overhead console so I really need only a few inches on the power side, and maybe a foot on the usb side. Is it possible to shorten the wires & reposition the square grommets?
Thanks Justin! ah yes it technically is possible (with experience on disassembly of electronics and soldering if removing the wires from the PCBA to shorten them or with crimping like I show on this video th-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/w-d-xo.html ) However installers usually just tuck the excess wire length in a pocket of the vehicles (this varies from car to car and installer preference of where to tuck the excess cable) Hope this helps!
Do you know if the Garmin Cable will be compatible with other Dash Cameras?
Hi Rapahel! Yes it is compatible with other Garmin Dash Cams, I put the model numbers in the video description. Cheers!
Hey, how you going? I bought a dash cam model Azdome m550. I just installed the hardware kit to record 24/7. I wonder why it is necessary to connect ACC and BAT wires if BAT wire contains power always for supply the camera. Is there any configuration that I am missing in the camera?
Hi fseelectronicos! as explained in the in the video the ACC wire serves a different function than the BATT wire. Without the ACC wire the dash cam will not know that the car has been turned off and will not enter parking mode (there are dash cams out there that use a 2 wire hardwire kit but those do not enter true parking mode) stay tuned I have a video where I cover this in more detail. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun thank you for the explanation. I will wait for the new video.
@@fseeletronicos You're welcome!
Would it be possible to place the resistor at the other end of a generic USB cable to enable the Parking mode? Since the wires would be exposed it would be easy. Do you know the value of this resistor?
Hi Make Fit Department! ah yes technically it would work on the other side as long as the wires on the cable has all wires connected on both ends, some USB cables don't populate all wires to reduce cost (non USB Standard compliant cables) For the value I have heard as low as 12ohm and as high as 30ohm so I can't say for sure (but I will update this comment once I actual take measurements from mine, super tiny connector ouch lol) Hope this helps, Cheers!
It's 33kOhm to indicate that a cable are connected and enable the parking settings in the camera. It's 15kOhm to enable the cameras parking mode. What you can do are to take a resistor between 1k up to 4,7k and connect to the cameras ID pin and at the other end of the resistor connect a diode, 1N914 1N4148 any diode will do, with its catode, where it points to, to the ignition voltage. Then when the ignition are turned off and goes to 0 volt it will pull that resistor to ground, minus 0,7 volt, and will indicate to the camera to start its parking timer. Then remember that the parking settings in the camera are only available when you have the ignition off.
@@urbanlarsson8252 Great info! (I was kind of close LOL) Thank you for sharing this urban! 🍻
Hello how do i get this to work with my dual battery? I have the black and yellow connected but not the red acc but it enters parking mode and wont get out of it and says turn on the ignition which wont do anything because the acc is disconnected, i want to use the parking guard feature as its better for me. But i cant get access because of parking mode being on.
How do i get this to work so i dont have to use the parking mode being controlled with the ignition as im using my dual battery...?
Hi Locke! All 3 wires must be connected in order for the hardwire kit to work correctly. Here is my follow up video showing that process th-cam.com/video/K2iKXj82354/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks for the tips in video! But unfortunately it didn’t confirm initially what I was after, I then realised the solution to my issue was simple which was that I remembered that my sub amp has a toggle wire that I can control with a switch to turn it on and off usually via the head unit or ignition and in this case its the same but I don’t need to toggle it, the acc is just a toggle signal wire... connecting the red and bat wire together on positive of the bat will make it always on and thats what I want. And to just use the parking guard which is fine as I don’t need random footage while it’s parked... only incidents and I’m not taping into the ignition since I’m using a dual battery in the rear to constantly power my dash cam.
I have a lot of experience in hobby electrical work but this initially stumped me (wasn’t thinking straight after work ahaha) as my previous hardwire kit from another brand had the same 3 wires and didn’t have the issues I had.
Hi Locke! Awesome, glad you got it figured out. Cheers!
Hello from Alberta. I tried to hardwire a Garmin drive assist 51 in my 350Z with a generic kit from Amazon. Of course I got the error messages. Do you know of any kits, whether OBD or fuse tap, that will function with the 51?
Hi Bluesbarrister QC! yeah unfortunately there are no known kits that will not trigger an error on the Garmin due the proprietary nature of the kit (as shown in this video) But if I do hear of one I will let you know!
One more thing, is it possible to use this kit to power the dash cam only in ACC and ON modes?
Hi Alexander! Ah that would depend on the dash cam your are using it with. Most will let you turn off park monitoring mode in their menu but a few don't. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks!
@@AlexAutoFun If I turn off parking monitoring in the menu it would not drain the battery?
@@alexander-malafeev Hi Alexander, turning off park monitoring is separate from the low voltage cut off built in the hardwire kit. However turning off park monitoring will dramatically reduce power consumption since the dash cam won't be monitoring your car while parked. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks!
why does it only record 30 secs of video at random? I just purchased one.
Hi snk7! I think you are referring to loop recording. All dash cams record loop recording, the camera is always recording but the recording is segmented into sections, 3 mins is the typical segment length (my preferred choice actually) I do have another video coming where I explain loop recording in detail, stay tuned for that bud!
YOU USE mini cable fuse ?
Hi Monco! not sure what you mean by mini cable fuse, do you mean fuse taps?
@@AlexAutoFun yes , thanks order mini fuse for peugoeet 308
@@monacocross4241 You're welcome Monaco! and here is the video showing how I connect the fuse taps th-cam.com/video/K2iKXj82354/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
24v is used by trucks and buses
Hi Cap! Correct, larger Heavy Duty vehicles typically run on 24V. Cheers!
This cable has an inline fuse, so a fuse tap shouldn't be necessary.
Hi Isaac! Correct, the fuse tap is only needed if the installer wants to tap the fuse box for power instead of connecting the wires to the car's wiring via soldering or splicing. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Can you insert it into the fuse you want to tap and then put the fuse in to hold it in place?
@@mrmonday42 Hi Isaac! While I seen a few people do it that way, most installers won't install it like that due to concerns with reliability, safety and warranty (Both on the dash cam side and on the installers side). Fuse taps will normally be used if the owners want a reversible installation, here's how fuse taps are attached to the kit th-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/w-d-xo.html or they will solder or splice the wires directly to the cars wiring if the owner wants a permanent installation and does not mind having their wiring cut into (video on the soldering splice method coming, stay tuned). Hope this helps, Cheers!
❤️❤️🙏🙏
at 11.7v u battery is no good
Hi Herohobo! I think that is the real advantage of kits that have an adjustable low voltage cut off. Being able to decide when it's too low or too high. Cheers!
Ypu are wrong... read on board what is yellow wire goind out from ... it data ;-)
Hi Starman! Ah yes, I am often wrong! lol However on this case the yellow wire (BAT) going into the PTH with the silkscreen on the PCB showing"#4 ID", not sure where your are seeing "data". However the component that activates parking mode, has been identified since (it's just a simple resistor) Cheers!