A Viewer sent me this LG PK3 SPEAKER with NO POWER | Can I FIX It?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ย. 2024
- Mr Sysm very kindly donated this LG Bluetooth Speaker to the channel. He's previously replaced the USB-C port and installed a brand new battery and all seems good, but it still doesn't power on!
Let's get troubleshooting the board and see if we can work out what's wrong with it!
Hope you enjoy!
Steve
PS. I'm not an expert in repairs at all. I do this for fun, and it may not be the best or safest way to go about repairing broken stuff. I'm pretty good at melting plastic though. Please don't copy me - I'm an idiot.
SUPPORT ME on Patreon: bit.ly/ssf-patreon
MERCH: stezstixfix.com
AMAZON WISH LIST: bit.ly/ssf-wish
SUBSCRIBE HERE: bit.ly/ssf-sub
FOLLOW ME on Facebook: bit.ly/ssf-fbook
If you want to make a device donation to the channel, please use the following PO Box. Please note that this is not a repair service, and all items are non-returnable.
PO BOX ADDRESS: StezStix Fix?, PO Box 415, BOLTON, BL4 4AZ
N.B. Please only use this service if you are a UK resident and using Royal Mail.
Some of the magic things I use to break stuff;
My soldering iron: amzn.to/2Isf360
My hot air station: amzn.to/3kPxaBQ
My microscope: amzn.to/2VP3msU
My desoldering gun that goes "moo": amzn.to/3HHt73P
My multimeter: amzn.to/2LjBgnN
My thermal cam: amzn.to/3yPFhmT
My blue mat: amzn.to/3nDVs3A
Filming equipment;
My camera: amzn.to/38IdR7s
My 2nd camera: amzn.to/3Rfjn6U
My microphone: amzn.to/3rCriPc
VOS's mic: amzn.to/3pz2c1L
Links are affiliated where possible to help support the channel. Nice.
Stupid speaker?
@wut shtoopid
I've got a stupid Sonos that makes a stupid hum if you fancy trying to fix that. You can keep it. I'm not after a free fix.
capacitor
Every video … I hear the outcome before watching it
Stupid shorted capacitor
Thank you so much for your channel. I had been stuck in my deadend QA/Triage job for a couple years and was about to quit when I first started watching your videos. You do a great job of being informative and entertaining while still being humble about your ability. It was that that reignited my interest and made me insist to my superior to let my apply to their open solder tech position. Long story short three weeks of practice at home with your videos and various youtube tutorials to keep my company and a test last week and I am now a solder tech.
This is a great story! Well done. Also well done Steve for inspiring people
Congrats
Congrats on finding passion in your work.
No, no, no brother Steve! its not! a fuse. FB is the designator for a 'Ferrite Bead' It acts a lot like an inductor, it filters out AC, and they slow transition of DC signals.
GET IN - Satisfied. Shout, shout, let it all out The Capacitor is a thing It can work without, I'm de-soldering you Come on I'm De-soldering you, come on 😂👍
Thanks brother Steve! Ferrite Bead makes much more sense than Fuse Boi! I should have known that! 😬🤣
@@StezStixFix when they fail, the F and B stand for something else
@@grantm902 F*^%ing Bollocks?
@@grantm902 blyat suka?
Generally with low voltage electronics, all of the grounds will be connected(which is why every cap seemed to be "shorted"). If you do find a short anywhere, one good trick to narrow things down quickly is to look for fuses(or even larger inductors) - You can use them to your advantage to isolate the positive rails of different areas on the pcb. I think of them as little diagnostic switches you can open(remove), and then re-test to see what area is still shorted. Once you find one of those that clears the short from the majority of the board, you'll be down to a much smaller area to check for the culprit.
This is exactly why right to repair is so important. One small cheap component failed and normally the whole speaker would be thrown away. Having schematic of the board would have helped to diagnose the problem.
Just for future reference, there's fairly little point in taking an MCU off. Even if it is the cause of the fault AND you can source a new replacement, you still need the program the manufacturer put in it to make it work again, which is a non-starter in most cases. Better to diagnose a faulty MCU by process of elimination and then just keep the unit for spares.
You asked how people make it look so easy, but we aren't watching those people. Your persistence is inspiring! People who know exactly what they're doing aren't fun to watch. I don't know how to repair electronics, but I'm interested. I love it!
Nicely done Steve 👌
Thanks Vince, I really enjoyed this one! 👍
Patience of a saint Steve and well done for sticking with it - amazing to think it seems to have been all because of that tiny capacitor - they are so small in reality!!Great fix man!!😃😃
Thanks Greg! Yeah, it was super satisying to find that little cap! Really enjoyed this one! 👍
Nice to have these videos..I can see how much electronics must've been going to waste just because of tiny components failing to work. Love you man 😘
thats why there should be more places where things get repaired instead of throwing away everything. An companies should start to make things again which last longer then just a year or two
@@mutosanrc1933 they were actually making things easy to assemble and disassemble.. making it easier to repair. Things weren't compact and glued too tight as well in earlier those days, I remember that old Mac PC was so nice to maintain and then things got changed to the extent that we're forced to dump them if slight damage occurr.
unfortunately it's a question of economics, these components and boards are so cheap to make these days, even if it's a tiny fault like this, it easily takes an hour of work from a skilled person and will cost you more than just replacing, that is if you can find anyone capable of doing this.
Good work Steve, you're getting better and better at fault diagnosis. Now word of advice, when you're looking for a short and start removing components, do not put them back until you've cleared it, why is this important? Because you can accidently introduce a short of your own by accidently making bridges etc, then it can become a real headache real quick. SO when doing this type of work and you suspect a component is the culprit and you remove it, and it turns out not to be the cause of the short just leave it out of circuit until you've cleared the original short, then resolder all the remaining components you originally removed back to the board. All in all good work mate.
Your style, expertise and innovative approach are immensely entertaining.
Thanks again for the video, what a demonstration of perseverance!
Always amazed by your capacity to create new rhymes !
Thanks M.GN! Really enjoyed working on this one! 👍
Don't rely on the beep of a continuity tester to indicate a short, remember it still sounds with low resistances too. Double check with ohmmeter
I don't know how you do it.... !!! Bounce from one component to another..and you fix it.. bloody brilliant!! Love you channel 🤩
Enjoyed that ! Your infrared camera link, links to a humidity tester on Amazon , by the way.
Nice Fix Steve, well done! I had the same problem with one of my Hikvision cameras a few month back. Those pesky surface mount caps!
I dont understand alot of what you're doing and saying but enough to follow along.
It's good to see old things fixed and used. I've had no end of stuff thrown away to a variety of issues over the years I'd of loved to of seen fixed and in working order again.
Great videos man
Hi would you consider fixing 1980s Nissan electrical widgits because I think it would be really interesting and I own two. Also broken stuff is cheap and working components worth a mint.
Could not describe how I love your videos, they are just like some comfort food to me but in digital form. Love so much Steve.
Steve you crack me up. Excellent diagnostics and delivery. Thank you!
Nice work Steve. fantastic that you got it to work .
Thanks Frederick! Super satisfying this one! 😍
Well done Steve. I’m not going to check all 399 comments because I don’t want to. I suspect Mr Sysm is a play on the word mysticism. NICE & SOLID 😊
Oh my gosh, this video is amazing. Thank you so much - I'm learning a ton from watching you fault find through these. You're one of the people who inspired me to start learning about electronics and I've even made a little bit of side money from repairing them and reselling them thanks to you. You truly ignited a love for things like this that I didn't know I even had!
Incredible tenacity on this one!
What a repair!!!! Good find, Thermal cameras for the win!!!
Nice one Steve 😃👍
Thanks Plantmilk! 👍
its been awhile I hope all is well
I don't normally listen to VOS, but this time he was on point. Love watching you fiddle with things no matter if they end up working or not. Appreciate the content Steve!
Nice detective-ing! I wonder if Sysm could check the value on the other speaker 🤔 Guessing that cap was just doing a bit of stabilization or filtering that's not strictly necessary
Thanks AFU! Yeah, I don't think it's that important but I could definitely ask him if my one starts behaving odd. Working perfectly though and it's a great little speaker! 😊
Great job! You could probably email Mr. Sysm and ask him to open his working speaker and see what the capacitance is on that part :)
I have been binging your channel for a week or so and I am seeing a theme of , Voltage regulator chips, capacitors of ever increasing smallness and flyaway ability, also usb sockets being mangled being the fault usually and also they seem to be the most annoying jobs and very fiddly, I salute your patience. During lock down I bought myself a soldering iron station and a multimeter and all the gubbins, it's all still in the box lol.
So thermal camera to the rescue - seems every tool box now needs a new tool for this type of work - Good save and much fun watching .Niccceee
Hi Steve, i'm pretty sure I've watched everything you've put out. This is a new favourite. I learnt loads from this. Yeah, this one is your best work so far. And yes, I said solid.
Greatest band of all time.
WELL DONE !! The satisfaction of a fix is second to none. Great content Steve.
Love how you do all type of items .. gday from Australia 🇦🇺
Get in!
Excelente video la paciencia que le pones para poder arreglar saludos desde Argentina
I'm a new subscriber and you have already improved my life. My repairs don't always go well but I've identified my problem. I'm going to trade my multimeter in for a new multimeter. Things will go better. Thank you
I think this is one of your best wins, well done.
Well found Steve ... perhaps this is the opportunity to get yourself a short circuit finder? I can recommend the VC480+ Milliohm meter but there are plenty of others which can help narrow the search. See Learn Electronics Repair channel’s video ‘MicroOhm Meter Short Circuit Finder Review Comparison...’
God inlove you so much, its Like therapy when i listen to you, many thanks and sorry for Bad english
I love how you are seemingly descending into madness.
Way to go, Capt. Bodge.
Thanks so much for you content, it is because of you I fixed my 42" TV, I would never have attempted it, do not have the tools you have but in the end I just swapped out the small circuit board that I found was faulty, and hey presto all fixed.
Thanks so much keep the great videos great fun!! Stupid TV! 😃
Very Nice Steve. I learn more and more. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks WanJockey! Much appreciated! 👍
This was a great video Steve! I was kinda worried there for a minute. Very nice trouble shooting!
Thanks Chris, much appreciated! 👍
When testing capacitor for shorts with a cont or diode test on a DMM , you MUST back up a short by testing the resistance because its HIGHLY likely that they aren't dead short , but just very low resistance so , find a shorted one , check the resistance , as you get closer to the bad one you will get closer to a dead short on the meter
A milliohm meter may help as well.
The "and that's moving edit" really made me giggle, thank you
Another great fix.. Btw us mortals don't realise the smallness (is that a word) of the components you are dealing with. Well done Steve.
Dear Stezger (did you see what I did there - did you see??!!) your timing is impeccable Sir, after spending the afternoon repairing a fence panel in my Mums garden, picking up the requisite Indian takeaway, I come home to a brand new video from you! Wonderful to watch and eat at the same time!
I love what you are doing. Could you give us more scale on the things you use and the stuff you are fixing. Perhaps introduce something as scale reference like a 1cm cube of blutac?!
The song sections are my favorites!
This was by far the best flow for the Patreon Shoutout.
Well done Steve I was feeling for you mate but you came though with flying colours you are getting a very clever man 👏👏👍😊love your videos keep them coming mr Steve
I own one LG PK7 Boom box +Meridian. I'm still genuinely impressed by it's build quality and of it's impressive bass output from two passive woofers. The battery lasts about 8 hours at full volume per charge. However in my opinion, the charging is the biggest drawback as it requires a dedicated 19vdc charger brick. It would have been most useful to be able to charge it with a 12vdc brick.
Thank you for telling your air temp + speeds :)
Hope your having a good day
I love these longer types of videos. Great job, Steve!
Nice bit of troubleshooting, that cap might have been hard to nail down with the chip on so as it turns out that was probably the best approach.
Well done, though you should replace the capacitor which was connected to that ferrite bead and acted as a form of LC filter for power rail noise (protecting other components). To determine the value, look at the other unit (that the sender fixed).
Really nice fix Steve! Even that cheap thermocam helps a lot. At least in case the short is low resistance.
I love VOS please don't listen to the haters!
I wish you said I O you and apology. You’re the best! I know nothing about any of this but find your content super relaxing and educational. Thanks!!
Get yourself a Voltage Injector Tool on the shorted components to see where the heat is coming from
Aw yes some Saturday night SOLDER PRON!
cues up "Solder Boi"
Man you have a charm with you when doing this and on top of that you make me smile ,i subbed !
Another gem. Thank you for sharing!
great pinpoint and fix!
ahh the old red herring went down the rabbit hole for a while 🙂. Nice fix enjoyed it.
First off, im not british. I am from the u.s. so im not sure what your terminology would be but i will give it an attempt. Your sense of humor is so funny. Like when you said that was the question on your lips not everyone, that would be weird. I guess its cheeky as you guys say. It is hilarious. Your cheeky sense of humor. Is that right?
Great video mate! Awesome problem solving.
Great fix ones again, still funny that a tiny component can shut down a complete device...
Well done, good job Steve. I love watching your videos. I think you are absolutely hilarious 😉👍👍
Very good work, Captain Bodge! 😁
I have no idea what you are doing 1/2 the time but I love watching your videos =)
Beautiful Fix and keep going.
Steve, you have an acoustic guitar! You know what to do with it!
Perseverance pays off. Great video Steve. 😁😁
Love your videos. Love the TFF ending. Hate small caps. Rock on! :D
Dude you deserve a million subscribers I'm definitely sticking around for that day
Gettin better and better!
I really enjoy your humour on these vids. Great stuff
100k is close keep the good work man ✌✌
Maybe you should build or buy a short finder. most models work in-circuit and use low voltage, so the PN junctions don’t turn on. This means you usually don’t have to remove ICs and capacitors during testing.
Nice. Well done Steve.
So I’m very curious about the capacitor that was removed. If you take out that capacitor and now it works, do you eventually find out what capacitor is supposed to be there so that you can replace that or can you just go without? Obviously the capacitor was put in for a reason.
It's just not practical to replace without just guessing since without another board or rare to exist schematic but you don't want to swap it with something that is rated much higher. The cap is only there to add increased current stability but losing one usually won't be an issue as long as it's not on the CPU or something critical. Tiny ceramic caps job is much less crucial than large cylinder type caps.
especially being near a fuse that cap was likely just power smoothing/stability. Likely will be no issue with removing it as it's just part of good design practice but not necessarily needed for operation. it's probably something like a 0.1uF, 1uF, or 10uF.
Just go without older electronics had big electrolyte capacitors that dont fit into smartphones as an example. They are replaced with small smd capacitors and lots of them to make the value of the big old ones that dont fit. So losing 1 capacitor there is still enough left for the value. Or as someone once said if the queen has 100 guards and 1 calls in sick the queen is not in danger she still has 99 guards
Most of these boards are made as cheap as possible. If that extra condenser wasn't necessary, they would save the cost and not add it.
@@TheTinydev The component marked FB wasn't a fuse, it was a Ferrite Bead Inductor. It acts as a noise filter in low frequency applications.
Just for future reference;
MCU = Microcontroller. Replacing it won't work without the firmware. They come blank ,or with a default program from distributors (mouser, digikey, etc). If you're buying thousands you can discuss buying them pre-programmed from the manufacturer, a few hundred and you'd have the PCB assembler program them in circuit as part of the assembly process. You can program them yourself, but you need access to the specific "I'm a bluetooth speaker" program written (or commissioned) by LG
You were "sad" when it wasn't the MCU.... Being someone who writes firmware for MCUs I was happy for you. As there was no way you are going to replace that STM and have it work without a donor from another unit as it would need to have the firmware that runs it flashed onto it. So seeing that the problem was something else that was probably just a failed component was the best outcome. Good stuff. I love watching your videos. You have such a good attitude and a hilarious way of going about it.
You can use tools like UrJTAG or OpenOCD to read or “snarf” the contents of flash. However, some developers take steps to protect or disable debug interfaces such as JTAG, UART and ICSP, but more often than not you can dump the flash chip directly. It does require an EE/EPROM reader/programmer and the correct chip socket or adapter (should be included).
@@vadimbellous8313 yes it's possible with all the right stuff... At least if the MCU isn't too locked down. That task is a bit out there for a channel like this though. Those tools often involve at least some knowledge of the MCU architecture. But to be fair I did say something along the lines of "not possible" so I guess I should revise that to "not practical".
Amazing Repair!
Good One! I think it's amazing how quickly your channel has grown. I remember when you hit your 5K subscribers. There I was still hoping that you would soon make 10K subscribers, but it looks like you may have reached 100K soon. Keep it up!
All that for a tiny capacitor! 2nd best outro btw...
By-the-way, FB is not 'fuse' but 'ferrite bead'. It is a component used in-line with a power supply to suppress high-frequency noise.
WOW! Congratulation!
Standing ovation 👏
Outstanding video as always. Great job Steve.
I LOST it when you said “FB? Fuse boy” 🤣🤣🤣 great fix Steve!
Nice fix! Good find with that cap. Would've been game over if the MCU was the culprit, unless you had a donor board or access to the dev software to re-flash a new chip with.
i like this man satisfaction guaranteed 😅😅😅😅