Thinking lubrication was needed on all parts of the drivetrain. Screwing up the front derailleur by completely messing up the limit screws. My general rule now is that if it doesn't come out of a tube or bottle then get the LBS to do it.
Not reading the directions I took one of my new TPU tubes with me on a long ride I still had butyl rubber tubes in the tires, of course I get a flat on the rear wheel and change out the rubber tube for the TPU one didn't put the retainer on the valve stem and two kilometers from home got another flat and I didn't have patches for either type of tube, 🙁 lesson learned read the directions, don't be lazy change the tubes to all of the same type, if I had done that I could have patched my inner tube on the second flat but then if I had installed the TPU tube properly I would not have gotten the second flat. 🤣 I had a second C02 cartridge with me so I was able to put in enough air to ride home a bit more slowly than I liked but I got home. (I did put my tire pump back on the bike) My tip for beginners, don't use WD40 on the bike, if you need to get water off the wheels and cassette use a blow dryer or leaf blower or even set it front of a fan. WD 40 is fine for squeaky door hinges and loosening rusty bolts on the car no much for a bicycle, you only got a got a few square millimeters in contact with the road, don't chance it with a slippery chemical.
One important one is also to never use your hydraulic brakes when the wheel isn't atached to the bike, this will misalign the brake pistons and its a mess to fix after that if you are a beginner. Just did it last week, needed to go to my local bike shop 😅
Lining the tyre logo up with the valve has another benefit besides looking good: if you get a puncture you can easily check the same place on the tyre where the inner tube was punctured and find any thorns or debris that caused it.
While riding in a charity event I got a puncture, I had kept note of the inner tube placement when I removed it (this is a good tip) so I knew where the issue was approximately. I ran my fingers on the inside of my tire and could not find the reason for the puncture. I ran a tissue on the inside and it snagged on a piece of filament of an electrical wire that had poked through the tire and caused the puncture.
Me: cyclist for 6 years and has worked in a workshop for some time Also me: I really need to watch this video for beginners maintenance But seriously, good video with important tips that can help many cyclist
Another tip: most inner tubes have some kind of fine powder out of the box. If you already have one lying around in your saddle bag for a long time, chances are the powder has completely disappeared. Re-apply a small amount of soft talcum powder by hand on the entire length of the inner tube before putting it back into your saddle bag. This will help the inner tube slide between the rim and tire (thus, preventing pinching) and as an added bonus, keep moisture away from your other stuff in the saddle bag (e.g., prevent your multi-tool from rusting).
Biggest mindset mistake is the "oh,it's just one scratch" or "oh,i'm just leaning bike against harled wall or bush this once" or "i'm only not going to clean the bike this once" problem is 100 onces is,well 100..i think.
Recommending the use of a track pump is all very well, however, I'm not convinced the gauges that some are supplied with are accurate enough! I bought a cheapish one from Lidl/Crivit as an experiment and found the pressures were well off compared to those recorded with manual and topeak electronic gauges! Imo placing faith in some track pumps could prove detrimental to tyre life as well. I have suggested testing pressures on track pumps before and maybe GCN could consider this now? I feel that would be a really valuable study!
Track Pumps can vary by as much as 20%. It’s wild. I have access to a certified pressure gage, and marked my track pump with an offset so I know what pressure it actually is (within a reasonable degree of accuracy), despite the cheap gage reading incorrectly.
Reseating tyres without levers is a nice theory but often extremely difficult/impossible with modern rim and tyre combos. Might be helpful for GCN to show tips for selecting and correctly using tyre levers as part of a video like this.
Here’s a beginner mistake: Don’t blindly ask an automotive garage to fill your tire with air. Their compressor filled my tire way too quickly. I was in France to study abroad, didn’t have the best French at the time, and used a borrowed decathlon mtb to bike up a mountain outside of Grenoble. On the way home, I noticed the tires were squishy, and knowing nothing really about taking care of bikes other than tires need air, I asked them to fill my tires, which they did. The tires were solid so I thought good. I start pedaling away and not 10 meters later, I heard a BOOM. The rear tube blew, and the sidewall of the rim blew out partly separating from the wheel. Fortunately I wasn’t too far from home.
Here's the full bingo card of rookie mistakes that i've either made or helped friends recover from: WD40 on the chain and cassette, including overspray onto discs. Replacing gear cable inners only, keeping the old outers. Mixing up dry and wet lubes. Relying on a CO2 cartridge for inflation. Not following the torque specifications on bolts.
which just goes to show that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, as there are any number of instances in which your assertions don't hold true. I could go into them, but I'm bored already. Arrogant noobs are the worst.
Not exactly a beginner move but sometimes beginners try to adjust things without completely understanding what they’re doing. I'm a fairly experienced home bike mechanic but I'm not afraid to admit that biggest mistake I’ve made recently is in setting the limit screw incorrectly on my rear derailleur. Later, when I shifted into the biggest cog in my cassette, the chain went over the top into the spokes and ripped the derailleur off the hanger. So I had to buy a new SRAM Force AXS rear derailleur for something like $450 (and a new derailleur hanger).
Yup! Got that out of nowhere on week one charging up a 30 percent grade dirt hill. I fixed it with the app and my fingers so I think it’s okay? Grevil still runs like a gem sent from hell.
A customer I once dealt with tried to realign the front disc brake, but undid the wrong bolts, accidentally draining all hydraulic fluid and drenching the brake pads. This cost him a bleed and new brake pads.
@@Honkawsuzyamal I don't know if it's because we have good mechanical aptitude. At least in my case, I fail to understand how one can incorrectly determine which bolts to undo because I can't remember the last time I haven't had mechanical aptitude yet. I don't even know when it started to develop within me.
Regarding punctures, one thing is after repairing with a patch don't inflate unless inside tyre as patch especially if freshly applied could come away from inner tube. When installed in tyre on rim the tyre effectively holds patch in place. A tiny bit of air is OK to help position tube in tyre but no more is my advice.
It took me while to realise this as a youth. I’d put lots of air in the tube before installing to check the patch repair had worked. I couldn’t work out why all puncture repair kits were so crap 😂
Here's one I wish I knew. Always cross tram tracks and train tracks at 90 degrees. When I first started cycling, I got my front wheel wedged in some tram tracks. I ended up scraping my knee and destroying the wheel. It wasn't a super expensive wheel and costs $300 AUD to replace so cheap lesson in hindsight. Still, I wish someone had told me this.
2:45 @gcntech Protect your BB bearings and hub bearings from degreasers... remove greasy components before cleaning or spray the degreaser onto a rag to clean greasy components
I would agree on punctures however living in the western U.S. You can repair a flat go less than a mile and get two or more instantly. Advice running tubes or tubeless use a high quality sealant to avoid pin holes from goat heads or puncturevine. They are spikey plant thorns that go through any bicycle tire and are found nearly everywhere out this way.
According to Josh at Silca in a recent video, a big mistake people do is use a clamping bike stand with their carbon bike frame/seat post (e.g. Ollie in this entire video). I guess it can cause carbon cracking!! It's recommended to use a mounting system that the bike can sit on (fork/dropout mounts, or something like the silca hirobel).
Many seatposts can be clamped, only the über lightweight ones (Darimo, MCFK, Schmolke, THM, etc.) are forbidden. Also, not all bikes can fit on dropout-style workstands, like the Diamondback Andean.
Never use a metal tire lever for anything but opening a beer!!!!! I was late for work because my tire was flat (Roval cl 60 rapid) so carbon and price tag. Anyway, I grabbed my multi tool to save time only to discover this thing would completely destroy the wheels. I’m smarter than that so I dug into my bag for the plastic ones. Carbon wheels are an investment. Treat them like a car you love. Had I hacked that rim with that metal tire lever I would be buying envy or bora but most definitely plastic/nylon tire levers.
Swapped the Tarmac for a Pinarello Grevil to commute and it’s very bad ass. Going through the city is easy mode now. I can dump it down steps and climb very steep dirt hills even in the rain and not worry about tier puncture or weather. 2 different bikes is amazing.
Higher pressure means less rolling resistance. Period. This affects any width tyres. Just wider tyres get less penalty reducing pressure. And lower pressure means more comfort. Reducing 2 bars in pressure increase rolling resistance just 2 watts on average.
Nicely said, but wrong. The actual relation between tyre pressure and rolling resistance is 6nfortunately much more complicated. Tyre manufacturers (in particular Pirelli, iirc) have done a lot of research on this - you might want to check their website if you do not trust a mere amateur cyclist such as me. In short: Optimum tyre pressure for reduced rolling resistance depends on the surface you will be riding on (among other factors).
@@michab4083 optimal pressure from manufacturer is from 8bar to lets say 5 bars if you use tubes. Where you found any source which tested and measured the rolling resistance of the tyre, on the drum, with different surfaces, which claim less pressure is less rolling resistance? Keep in mind that narrow tyres will always have higher max pressure. That's why pros are trained to ignore feelings and keep pushing on bad surfaces.
@@michab4083 what i said is about tyre rolling resistance. Another aspect is force required to drive x km's. If your tyre can deform more than road irregularities measured in hight, you require less force to move forward. It's like a suspension. But what happens when those small hills and downhills of surface (road irregularities ) become higher than tyre ability to deform? Bikes have to change actual moving direction, from horizontal, to up, and down. Which requires more force.
@@michab4083 with higher pressure on irregularities you have tyre with less rolling resistance which have to drive longer path, and with less pressure you have slower tyre which requires less distance to drive same amount of track. You can pick up optimal pressure for known track with a lot of studies, but what will you do when taking an unknown path????
Olly, I think that it is imperative that you do a GCN does science study on the new RAF inflatable back pack.I think that you could carry it off ? Even if it makes you no faster, for pure entertainment purposes, it would be worth it.
I remember having commented, on a previous video, about the risk of denting or breaking the rim with underinflated tyres. I also remember I had no feedback at all, as if I were some sort of lunatic with no idea of what I was talking about. Maybe now people will become aware of such risk. Thank you GCN,
3:10 Is there an error here? I fail to understand how over inflating a tire will cause an increase in rolling resistance? Wouldn't it reduce resistance? As there would be a smaller contact area between the tire and road (you even mention right after that there is less grip in wet/slippy conditions, which makes sense if your tire has a smaller contact area with the road). The only thing that MIGHT increase resistance is the extra mass of air that is pumped into the tubes, but I feel like that would be an insignificant factor as air doesn't weight much at all.
In a nutshell: research was done for the ‘correct’ tire pressure, concluded something like “over inflated tires bouncing over road imperfections more tiring to body than reducing pressure and having tire slightly flex over road imperfections” Don’t quote me though
The contact the car makes with the road is many times bigger than that of a bicycle. This means you need less pressure to prevent deformation as the load is spread over a much bigger area.
you said over inflated tyres have high rolling resistance, thats not true, they will have low resistance. more inflation equals less effort in pedalling
Once someone might have told you: "You'll get paid for riding high-end bikes without having to win races." But what they definitely did not tell you is: "They're going to be the ugliest bikes ever made." Seriously, get another sponsor, it's really hard to watch with these monstrosities on the screen.
OR - you could buy an electric tire pump or small air compressor and use it to pump up your tires without having to pump them manually. Even basic 6 gal air compressors have an adjustable pressure regulator that will limit how much pressure you put into your bike tires. AND - for those who would say what about pumping up your tires away from home, you can get one that plugs into the power port on your car. Haven’t had a manual pump since I was a little kid and don’t see myself switching back anytime soon, even if it might be good exercise! 😂
What has been the worst mistake you've made while maintaining your bike? ⚙
Improper tightening of the spokes 😁
Thinking lubrication was needed on all parts of the drivetrain. Screwing up the front derailleur by completely messing up the limit screws. My general rule now is that if it doesn't come out of a tube or bottle then get the LBS to do it.
too much tire pressure which caused my front tire to blow up and my fender was all messed up
Not reading the directions
I took one of my new TPU tubes with me on a long ride I still had butyl rubber tubes in the tires, of course I get a flat on the rear wheel and change out the rubber tube for the TPU one didn't put the retainer on the valve stem and two kilometers from home got another flat and I didn't have patches for either type of tube, 🙁
lesson learned read the directions, don't be lazy change the tubes to all of the same type, if I had done that I could have patched my inner tube on the second flat but then if I had installed the TPU tube properly I would not have gotten the second flat. 🤣
I had a second C02 cartridge with me so I was able to put in enough air to ride home a bit more slowly than I liked but I got home.
(I did put my tire pump back on the bike)
My tip for beginners, don't use WD40 on the bike, if you need to get water off the wheels and cassette use a blow dryer or leaf blower or even set it front of a fan.
WD 40 is fine for squeaky door hinges and loosening rusty bolts on the car no much for a bicycle, you only got a got a few square millimeters in contact with the road, don't chance it with a slippery chemical.
@@Jari1973 what happened?
One important one is also to never use your hydraulic brakes when the wheel isn't atached to the bike, this will misalign the brake pistons and its a mess to fix after that if you are a beginner. Just did it last week, needed to go to my local bike shop 😅
good tip!
Easy fix. Use plastic tyre level to push pistons back into position in the calliper
@@derekmclean5603 I guess its what I tried to do straight away, but instead I pushed them too far back, so the pistons where stuck in the caliper 😅
I found that when replacing an inner tube, putting a little air in it b4 putting it on helps ot seat better and prevents pinch flats
Yes, my granny told me that one when I was about 7 and struggling, I am 66 now and still do it, never discount the older generation 😊
This is the standard operating procedure of inner tube installation, or it should be already if it surprisingly isn't.
Really surprised this was not mentioned.
Lining the tyre logo up with the valve has another benefit besides looking good: if you get a puncture you can easily check the same place on the tyre where the inner tube was punctured and find any thorns or debris that caused it.
Not come across this great tip before. So simple, I’d never think of it…
Omg that's fucking genius
I would definitely recommend avoiding a Pinarello Dogma when you first start cycling, probably also for quite a long time after you start
Jealous much?
That head tube hurts my eyes.
It’s more of a break in issue…
Not the bike, it’s your body.
Speed wobble much?
While riding in a charity event I got a puncture, I had kept note of the inner tube placement when I removed it (this is a good tip) so I knew where the issue was approximately. I ran my fingers on the inside of my tire and could not find the reason for the puncture. I ran a tissue on the inside and it snagged on a piece of filament of an electrical wire that had poked through the tire and caused the puncture.
Most common mistake I come across is not checking chain wear and running the worn chain for far too long causing more wear issues.
That cassette and chainring wear out very quickly 😵💫
Me: cyclist for 6 years and has worked in a workshop for some time
Also me: I really need to watch this video for beginners maintenance
But seriously, good video with important tips that can help many cyclist
Rim brakes for the win
Another tip: most inner tubes have some kind of fine powder out of the box. If you already have one lying around in your saddle bag for a long time, chances are the powder has completely disappeared. Re-apply a small amount of soft talcum powder by hand on the entire length of the inner tube before putting it back into your saddle bag. This will help the inner tube slide between the rim and tire (thus, preventing pinching) and as an added bonus, keep moisture away from your other stuff in the saddle bag (e.g., prevent your multi-tool from rusting).
Biggest mindset mistake is the "oh,it's just one scratch" or "oh,i'm just leaning bike against harled wall or bush this once" or "i'm only not going to clean the bike this once" problem is 100 onces is,well 100..i think.
Recommending the use of a track pump is all very well, however, I'm not convinced the gauges that some are supplied with are accurate enough! I bought a cheapish one from Lidl/Crivit as an experiment and found the pressures were well off compared to those recorded with manual and topeak electronic gauges! Imo placing faith in some track pumps could prove detrimental to tyre life as well. I have suggested testing pressures on track pumps before and maybe GCN could consider this now? I feel that would be a really valuable study!
Hand pump on a morph road for 12 years and it never lets me down.
Yes, I use silca.
Track Pumps can vary by as much as 20%. It’s wild. I have access to a certified pressure gage, and marked my track pump with an offset so I know what pressure it actually is (within a reasonable degree of accuracy), despite the cheap gage reading incorrectly.
Reseating tyres without levers is a nice theory but often extremely difficult/impossible with modern rim and tyre combos. Might be helpful for GCN to show tips for selecting and correctly using tyre levers as part of a video like this.
Why’s anyone producing metal tire levers?!?!?!
Here’s a beginner mistake: Don’t blindly ask an automotive garage to fill your tire with air. Their compressor filled my tire way too quickly.
I was in France to study abroad, didn’t have the best French at the time, and used a borrowed decathlon mtb to bike up a mountain outside of Grenoble. On the way home, I noticed the tires were squishy, and knowing nothing really about taking care of bikes other than tires need air, I asked them to fill my tires, which they did. The tires were solid so I thought good.
I start pedaling away and not 10 meters later, I heard a BOOM. The rear tube blew, and the sidewall of the rim blew out partly separating from the wheel. Fortunately I wasn’t too far from home.
Ollie forgot one crucial beginner mistake: Not aligning the logo on tyres with the valves 😂
Not maintenance, but when you ride bring a spare tube, a pump and two tire levers. Bring water when you ride too
Here's the full bingo card of rookie mistakes that i've either made or helped friends recover from:
WD40 on the chain and cassette, including overspray onto discs.
Replacing gear cable inners only, keeping the old outers.
Mixing up dry and wet lubes.
Relying on a CO2 cartridge for inflation.
Not following the torque specifications on bolts.
which just goes to show that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, as there are any number of instances in which your assertions don't hold true. I could go into them, but I'm bored already. Arrogant noobs are the worst.
Tighten the top cap before the stem bolts
Not exactly a beginner move but sometimes beginners try to adjust things without completely understanding what they’re doing. I'm a fairly experienced home bike mechanic but I'm not afraid to admit that biggest mistake I’ve made recently is in setting the limit screw incorrectly on my rear derailleur. Later, when I shifted into the biggest cog in my cassette, the chain went over the top into the spokes and ripped the derailleur off the hanger. So I had to buy a new SRAM Force AXS rear derailleur for something like $450 (and a new derailleur hanger).
"a fairly experienced home mechanic" doesn't futz with their limit screws unless they know what they do. Caught in your own arrogance trap.
Yup! Got that out of nowhere on week one charging up a 30 percent grade dirt hill. I fixed it with the app and my fingers so I think it’s okay? Grevil still runs like a gem sent from hell.
A customer I once dealt with tried to realign the front disc brake, but undid the wrong bolts, accidentally draining all hydraulic fluid and drenching the brake pads.
This cost him a bleed and new brake pads.
It's bleeding obvious which fasteners to undo !!!
@@Honkawsuzyamal I don't know if it's because we have good mechanical aptitude. At least in my case, I fail to understand how one can incorrectly determine which bolts to undo because I can't remember the last time I haven't had mechanical aptitude yet. I don't even know when it started to develop within me.
How does higher pressure and a smaller contact patch increase rolling resistance?
It doesn’t lmao, he just needed one more mention as a reason to not overinflate 😂
Regarding punctures, one thing is after repairing with a patch don't inflate unless inside tyre as patch especially if freshly applied could come away from inner tube. When installed in tyre on rim the tyre effectively holds patch in place. A tiny bit of air is OK to help position tube in tyre but no more is my advice.
It took me while to realise this as a youth. I’d put lots of air in the tube before installing to check the patch repair had worked. I couldn’t work out why all puncture repair kits were so crap 😂
Here's one I wish I knew. Always cross tram tracks and train tracks at 90 degrees. When I first started cycling, I got my front wheel wedged in some tram tracks. I ended up scraping my knee and destroying the wheel. It wasn't a super expensive wheel and costs $300 AUD to replace so cheap lesson in hindsight. Still, I wish someone had told me this.
Bunny hopping saves lives and bikes.
I wish I'd known it was more addictive than crack. My bank account wasn't ready for the beating it was about to receive
2:45 @gcntech Protect your BB bearings and hub bearings from degreasers... remove greasy components before cleaning or spray the degreaser onto a rag to clean greasy components
I would agree on punctures however living in the western U.S. You can repair a flat go less than a mile and get two or more instantly. Advice running tubes or tubeless use a high quality sealant to avoid pin holes from goat heads or puncturevine. They are spikey plant thorns that go through any bicycle tire and are found nearly everywhere out this way.
Have made all these mistakes, but mostly in the days before the internet 😂
It’s a shame not to have experienced the era when GCN was printed in newspapers. 📜
Grinding Paste! Bingo! God I love Ollie ❤
According to Josh at Silca in a recent video, a big mistake people do is use a clamping bike stand with their carbon bike frame/seat post (e.g. Ollie in this entire video). I guess it can cause carbon cracking!! It's recommended to use a mounting system that the bike can sit on (fork/dropout mounts, or something like the silca hirobel).
Many seatposts can be clamped, only the über lightweight ones (Darimo, MCFK, Schmolke, THM, etc.) are forbidden.
Also, not all bikes can fit on dropout-style workstands, like the Diamondback Andean.
Never use a metal tire lever for anything but opening a beer!!!!!
I was late for work because my tire was flat (Roval cl 60 rapid) so carbon and price tag.
Anyway, I grabbed my multi tool to save time only to discover this thing would completely destroy the wheels.
I’m smarter than that so I dug into my bag for the plastic ones.
Carbon wheels are an investment. Treat them like a car you love.
Had I hacked that rim with that metal tire lever I would be buying envy or bora but most definitely plastic/nylon tire levers.
Swapped the Tarmac for a Pinarello Grevil to commute and it’s very bad ass. Going through the city is easy mode now. I can dump it down steps and climb very steep dirt hills even in the rain and not worry about tier puncture or weather.
2 different bikes is amazing.
Higher pressure means less rolling resistance. Period. This affects any width tyres. Just wider tyres get less penalty reducing pressure. And lower pressure means more comfort. Reducing 2 bars in pressure increase rolling resistance just 2 watts on average.
Nicely said, but wrong. The actual relation between tyre pressure and rolling resistance is 6nfortunately much more complicated. Tyre manufacturers (in particular Pirelli, iirc) have done a lot of research on this - you might want to check their website if you do not trust a mere amateur cyclist such as me. In short: Optimum tyre pressure for reduced rolling resistance depends on the surface you will be riding on (among other factors).
@@michab4083 optimal pressure from manufacturer is from 8bar to lets say 5 bars if you use tubes. Where you found any source which tested and measured the rolling resistance of the tyre, on the drum, with different surfaces, which claim less pressure is less rolling resistance?
Keep in mind that narrow tyres will always have higher max pressure. That's why pros are trained to ignore feelings and keep pushing on bad surfaces.
@@michab4083 what i said is about tyre rolling resistance. Another aspect is force required to drive x km's. If your tyre can deform more than road irregularities measured in hight, you require less force to move forward. It's like a suspension. But what happens when those small hills and downhills of surface (road irregularities ) become higher than tyre ability to deform?
Bikes have to change actual moving direction, from horizontal, to up, and down. Which requires more force.
@@michab4083 with higher pressure on irregularities you have tyre with less rolling resistance which have to drive longer path, and with less pressure you have slower tyre which requires less distance to drive same amount of track.
You can pick up optimal pressure for known track with a lot of studies, but what will you do when taking an unknown path????
I experienced pinch flat when being too late for the train. Speeding on the rocks and final thing that made tyre blow is curb.
The doctor is in. Ollie's the best.
Olly, I think that it is imperative that you do a GCN does science study on the new RAF inflatable back pack.I think that you could carry it off ?
Even if it makes you no faster, for pure entertainment purposes, it would be worth it.
Mistake I made today, trying to fit Continental tyres to Mavic hookless rims.
Biggest mistake i’d experienced when ignoring to service headset and bottom bracket bearings.
Wow, nice bike, my dream bike
And great tips
Everytime I see a content from GCN I learn a new reason why not buying a bike with disk brakes😂
I remember having commented, on a previous video, about the risk of denting or breaking the rim with underinflated tyres. I also remember I had no feedback at all, as if I were some sort of lunatic with no idea of what I was talking about. Maybe now people will become aware of such risk. Thank you GCN,
You’re not a lunatic; we hear you. 🫂
Did I just see Olli putting oil on his chain? 😱
It's drip wax
No not the toast!
can someone link the pirelli pressure calculator? cant find it
I'm pretty sure GCN ought to give a Pinerello exactly like that one to a viewer. To be more precise, this viewer. 😮
3:10 Is there an error here? I fail to understand how over inflating a tire will cause an increase in rolling resistance? Wouldn't it reduce resistance? As there would be a smaller contact area between the tire and road (you even mention right after that there is less grip in wet/slippy conditions, which makes sense if your tire has a smaller contact area with the road). The only thing that MIGHT increase resistance is the extra mass of air that is pumped into the tubes, but I feel like that would be an insignificant factor as air doesn't weight much at all.
In a nutshell: research was done for the ‘correct’ tire pressure, concluded something like “over inflated tires bouncing over road imperfections more tiring to body than reducing pressure and having tire slightly flex over road imperfections”
Don’t quote me though
I haven't made any of these mistakes as I run tubeless and my bike always sits upright anywhere I stop.
The Pinarello Dogma F is not a bike for beginners. 🙃
What beginner wouldn't love a Pinarello Dogma? 😎
Dogma is bike for pros or dentists.
I would love a Pinarello Dogma F as a beginner, I could sell it and buy a couple of useful bikes + spares and consumables for years :D
@@KNURKonesur Or a decent used car.
@@MegaH4NS Antidentite!
I just started a job as a shop mechanic helper, One thing I’m curious about is why car tire psi is lower then bicycle tire psi 🤔
Car tires have a larger volume.
@@sbccbc7471then you’d just fill it up with more air
The contact the car makes with the road is many times bigger than that of a bicycle.
This means you need less pressure to prevent deformation as the load is spread over a much bigger area.
After how many km should I clean the drivetrain?
Ollie and PapaSwolio are twins. Change my mind.
you said over inflated tyres have high rolling resistance, thats not true, they will have low resistance. more inflation equals less effort in pedalling
Is it sensible to run your fingers across something that punctured a tyre? Glass, sharp objects etc? Surely a visual inspection is safer.
As long as you do it slowly, not blaze through of course. Sometimes the tiniest prick can be missed visually.
What Ollie you're not a beginner cyclist. Man my world has just turned upside down.
This should just be called "Ollie schools noobs".
Biggest mistake: not just sending the bike to the mechanic from the very start.
If you're the mechanic, who do you send the bike to?
Davis Gary Jones Helen Williams Linda
Once someone might have told you: "You'll get paid for riding high-end bikes without having to win races." But what they definitely did not tell you is: "They're going to be the ugliest bikes ever made." Seriously, get another sponsor, it's really hard to watch with these monstrosities on the screen.
Wilson Barbara Anderson Brenda Miller Michael
OR - you could buy an electric tire pump or small air compressor and use it to pump up your tires without having to pump them manually. Even basic 6 gal air compressors have an adjustable pressure regulator that will limit how much pressure you put into your bike tires.
AND - for those who would say what about pumping up your tires away from home, you can get one that plugs into the power port on your car.
Haven’t had a manual pump since I was a little kid and don’t see myself switching back anytime soon, even if it might be good exercise! 😂
Nice hair 😏
are ppl still clicking on open-mouth thumbs? :D
1) I use a kickstand,not lean 2) Rim brakes,not discs
Nr.1 Buy a simple bike.
I think this guy is a nob 🤷♂️
Another “I wish I had known when I started…” 🤦🏾♂️
Another filler vid to get channel sponsors in shot , fair enough though.