How to purge bleed air out the HVAC hoses of gauges on mini split
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
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How to purge bleed air out the HVAC hoses of gauges on mini split
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Just to say Thank you for this video (which you made with Love). Watching while waiting for my pump / manifold to arrive from China... I am going to move two ACs from my old house to the new. I install them by myself, because I can afford to do it right and not pay someone for NOT use NYLOG, not to use torque wrench, or not to use a vacuum pump to empty and fill properly. But what he is probably good at, is to charge BIG ££s. Also subscribed.
Glad I could help! And thanks for subscribing!
Perfect and explained in layman's terms. thank you.
Glad you liked it
Nice video, lot of people need this info, seems this would also apply to a small low side single gauge set-up but you would do it at the connection to the can loosening hose connection at the refrigerant can with the can valve shut so the system low side refrigerant would blow and purge the line. Would seem it would work as long as there is refrigerant in the system. But I wonder if there might be a one way type valve in the short single gauge charge line that might keep the gas from coming back past the gauge to blow/purge the line at the loosened can connection?
Very informative and clear video - thank you! - is there any serious harm if you forget to purge the hose one time when refilling? I completely forgot to purge when refilling my unit today and immediately realized when it was too late and i opened the valve to feed refrigerant :/
Thanks for sharing, however wouldn't it be better to have your gauge nut tight, and I guess really all nuts tight, when you connect to the a/c unit and then slowly open gauge nut, evacuate line, and then tighten it immediately? It doesn't seem you'd want it loose initially because you'd lose more refrigerant than you might have to.
That was very informative... Thank you
My pleasure!
good stuff easy but needed a refresh
Awesome!
Before starting, no hoses should be connected to your gauge set and both valves on the gauge set should be closed.
1. Connect blue hose to low side of manifold gauge set. (amzn.to/3wSNpIA)
2. Connect blue hose with adapter to mini split. (amzn.to/3X461jc)
3. Open low side manifold valve slightly. Refrigerant will bleed through manifold and out the middle port while you do this.
4. Close low side manifold valve. You have just purged air out of the blue hose and low side of manifold.
5. Connect yellow hose to refrigerant cylinder and manifold. DO NOT OPEN CYLINDER VALVE.
6. Connect vacuum pump to high side of manifold. (This dual stage 1/2 HP is perfect for mini splits.... amzn.to/3VfHPsU)
7. Open ONLY the high side manifold valve.
8. Turn on your vacuum pump. You are now evacuating air from your cylinder hose and the rest of your manifold. It doesn’t take long.
9. Close high side manifold valve.
10. Turn off the vacuum pump. You are now free to open the low side manifold valve and cylinder valve to add refrigerant per instructions for recharging the system.
The unit can be on when purging your hoses unless it is a negative pressure chiller.
Rookie question here- Is it a clear difference between air bleeding out and refrigerant? Will it be a Captain Obvious moment on when the purge is complete and it's time to close it off?? I am going to be using a manifold set on a car ac, but I am thinking the bleeding principles are the same- Right?? Many Thx!
What is difference between purging and vaccuming in regard to installation of Air Con?
Purging is using refrigerant to push the air out of the charge hoses. The refrigerant replaces the air. Vacuuming is evacuating all air & refrigerant out of the system leaving a total vacuum.
How can I purge air that mistakenly got into the system from not purging the refrigerant line to begin with?
Did anyone get an answer on this?
@@Snorkle411you’re going to have to pull a vacuum on the entire system. Harbor freight has (relatively) cheap AC vacuum pumps. About $125-$150
Probably have to evacuate the system again
As I understand it, a Section 608 certified technician will have to recover the mixed refrigerant and recharge the system. The mixed refrigerant will be taken to a certified reclamation center. They will either reject it or charge you for processing it. They will reclaim it if they can or destroy it, both very costly processes.
thanks for the video...I plan on installing two of these and this will pay for itself instead of contracting an electrician or HVAC person to finalize the installation
Awesome. Best wishes on the install!
thanks for this but how 1. do you use the same gauges to pump down the mini split, and 2 how do you purge the line so that after it pumps down you dont get any air back into the minisplit, ive seen so many videos and no one cleans out the line!
Great job! I hate when cameras don't focus like that.
Thanks Anthony!
great! Thank you !!!!!!
You are welcome!
This is a great chanel very complete lots of info..i subscribed thanks
Thanks and welcome
My mini split has very low pressure what does that mean it's not building in either mode very lil no heat or ac the outside units spin slow like it's not building pressure and I have no leaks
What about the air inside the valve block?
I agree w your question. I was thinking before i looked this subject up. To connect the low side up to the ac system then open up the low side valve till you hear some come out the yellow charge hose. Then close low side valve. Sure ur losing a little freon here but if ur going to recharge anyway its ok. Then you connect your yellow charge hose to your freon can, turn can upside down and open the your high side till you hear or see some come out the high side hose then close it. This should take care of the block you mentioned. Now when you open lowside to charge there should not be any air or contaminant in neither your block or hoses. What have you discovered since you posted your comment?
I suppose a variation of not turning the can upside down may also work to avoid liquid but idk.
What if you suspect air in your lines while it's running & it's not getting hot or cold & compressor barely running
Your my hero. Thanks for sharing
Glad to help
Why not connect a t valve on the tank end of the yellow hose and purge the blue AND yellow all the way trough the manifold.......
New 470a refrigerant that replaces 410a refrigerant, with Do-It-Yourself kit included..... ebay.us/tVSqEv
Thanks for the info!
You bet!
Where do you get those valve attachments for automobile? And thanks for the video!!
Your welcome. These are the automotive ones. They are a bit cheaper..... amzn.to/2RA3gqe
How do u build the back up in them
👍thank you
Welcome 👍
Hi There. Thank you so much for these videos! I have been watching all of the videos you've generously put together for those DIYers like myself out there. I couldn't afford to put in and maintain a mini split if I had to pay pros. I do have one question that I can't seem to find an answer to (it seems that the entire industry conspires to withhold information from us DIYers). The mini split I intend to order (LG 12k BTU 115 V) comes pre-charged for 25-foot lines. According to the manual 0.22 oz of refrigerant must be added per foot of length beyond 25 feet. It also indicates that the minimum line length is 10 feet. However, it does not indicate whether 0.22 oz of refrigerant must be removed per foot of line length less than 25 feet. I hope to use a 15-foot line length, and would like to know if I must remove some refrigerant (0.22 ozx10 ft = 2.2 oz must be removed, I assume?). Thanks again for your awesome videos!!!
I would not remove any refrigerant until you have your lines connected, and sealed with Nylog and once you run your unit, check the pressures. The label on the unit would give you the specs. You can also use a refrigerant scale to know EXACTLY how much refrigerant you are adding/removing and this ensures no errors. Here is a scale for $60..... amzn.to/2UUrFoP On the LG unit, what pricing are you seeing? For example, this particular one comes with all the install materials needed, and it's the best pricing I have seen..... ebay.to/378ukRP The Senville units are also very good, and their support is fantastic, from our experience. This 19 SEER Senville 110v heat pump is now on sale...... amzn.to/3nNhiQ4
@@SaveGreenHere Ok. Got it! I guess that in order to use such a scale, should I end up needing it, I'd have to set up a leveled table at location in order to get an accurate reading. Regarding pricing, I'm seeing the LG unit for around $840 right now. The only accessories it appears to be missing relative to the one you linked are the lines (~$100 value) and the power leads between the external/internal units (probably ~$20) (I plan to make my own wall sleeve). My thoughts are that a self-install would likely void warranty; so, I don't mind paying a bit more for a name-brand system that I assume might be more reliable and more serviceable in the future. Thank you!
Looks like the pricing you got would be 840+100+20=$960. The link I sent you above has the LG unit at $778 with all the copper lines and wiring ( ebay.to/33cKZCz ) Yes, on the scale, just make sure it's leveled, and reset, and or calibrated. You can always also get a lineset cover for 8 feet for under $25 like this one.... amzn.to/372hcxv
@@SaveGreenHere Hmmm ... The webpage that you linked to is for a YMGI unit. I see under the specs that it states: "compressor manufacturer: LG". Are you implying that the YMGI unit, since its compressor is manufactured by LG, is essentially equal in quality/reliability/serviceability to the LG I mentioned? ... www.ecomfort.com/LG-LS120HXV2/p99989.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAtej9BRAvEiwA0UAWXoO1wvfkYs5tmRW70bVyZv8A1Ni-gIuTENhdXayeVj4-C37ladTc5BoC8IQQAvD_BwE
Absolutely. The compressor is the life and soul of the unit. The other components, like PC boards can fail at any moment, on any system. Recently had one fail on a Senville unit, and it was mailed out immediately after their friendly support asked a few questions. But the compressor is important, and from my understanding, LG is making a large chunk of them, and so it Mitsubishi for mini splits. Best wishes on the new purchase!
Thank you sir
Glad it was helpful
isnt there air left in the blue manifold, so that when you charge from the yellow input it goes through the blue manifold and then into the blue input line?
You need to vacuum the system first. The manifold is to be closed until you add the refrigerant.
@@SaveGreenHerewhat about the air above the yellow hose in the manifold?
what is the effect in my aircon system unit if i forgot to purge guage hose prior to adding refrigenrant?
Air in the lines
@@SaveGreenHere will one time forgetting to purge cause any issues?
I vac the hoses quickly.
Yes purging is important.
Got it
Thanks!
I connected pump and oppened blue gauge, left it running for over 15 minutes and nothing happens. No vacuming anything.
What can it be wrong. Please advise asap anybody.
Was the unit running? Needs to be running to create a suction.
@@SaveGreenHere This is very confusing, the video specifically says "PLEASE ENSURE HVAC EQUIPMENT IS NOT RUNNING DURING THIS PURGING! OTHERWISE, AIR WILL GET SUCKED IN THROUGH THE SUCTION LINE AND GET INTO THE HVAC SYSTEM." Should a mini split be running or not when purging air through the blue line?
Not running, as mentioned when getting the air out. When adding refrigerant AFTER purging, unit should be running.
Video is really clear and understandable. Nothing wrong. Thank you Master👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
has anyone tried this?
Nice video, lot of people need this info, seems this would also apply to a small low side single gauge set-up but you would do it at the connection to the can loosening hose connection at the refrigerant can with the can valve shut so the system low side refrigerant would blow and purge the line. Would seem it would work as long as there is refrigerant in the system. But I wonder if there might be a one way type valve in the short single gauge charge line that might keep the gas from coming back past the gauge to blow/purge the line at the loosened can connection?