New subscriber here. How about removing all the glow plugs, connect 12v to the top thread of the glow plug and the body of the glow plug and compare the time it takes to get red hot on all the plugs? As long all the plugs glow in the same amount of time they are good. Would that be a way to test?
Could you test for conductance from the center connector to ground after removing the power bar, without removing the glow plug? It still looks like the center contact to ground would be a better test point in case it is burned out in the middle.
I don't believe that would be a good option as you would not be able to determine the resistance through the entire plug to the point of "ignition". If it was burned out in the middle your reading would be high meaning a bad plug.
Wrong mate, wrong….all you tested was the body of the glow plug. You place your test leads; one on the body and one on the terminal end. Measure the resistance, if open ie no circuit, your glow plug is dead. There should be a reading, compare readings across all the glow plugs any exceptionally high is duff…replace. Although all plugs should be replaced at the same time.
I read 15 ohms while plugs are in engine, and 0.9 ohms when out. Should I think engine grounding is bad?
Saved my bacon! Thank you. Universal Automic Diesel 5444 4 cyl. Sail boat
Awesome. Glad we could help.
Looked like hard starting at the end..does your ignition not allow a glow plug warm up before engaging starter motor?
Yes, I have a bad ignition switch and control module. I turn the key on and off to get the proper amount of warming time for the plugs.
How do I test the black glow plug box on the fire wall?
We just did a somewhat related video about that here: th-cam.com/video/QSrser6Mz6s/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful thks
You're welcome
New subscriber here.
How about removing all the glow plugs, connect 12v to the top thread of the glow plug and the body of the glow plug and compare the time it takes to get red hot on all the plugs? As long all the plugs glow in the same amount of time they are good.
Would that be a way to test?
Doing it the way I showed is easier and safer.
A lot less time consuming to check resistance (olms)
Could you test for conductance from the center connector to ground after removing the power bar, without removing the glow plug? It still looks like the center contact to ground would be a better test point in case it is burned out in the middle.
I don't believe that would be a good option as you would not be able to determine the resistance through the entire plug to the point of "ignition". If it was burned out in the middle your reading would be high meaning a bad plug.
Would the testing work on a 7.3 diesel?
Yes. Will work on any glow plug.
Does 2007 dodge6.7 lit have glow plugs
I have no idea as I do not own one.
I test my glow plug.but its reads 1.4 to 1.5 resistance. Its that good or bad.
Anything above 1 is bad. You need new plugs.
Hot tip. You don't need a magnet grabber. All you need is some chewing gum. Stuff in in the socket. It holds the nut. Costs about 2 cents.
Interesting. Thank you.
Wrong mate, wrong….all you tested was the body of the glow plug. You place your test leads; one on the body and one on the terminal end. Measure the resistance, if open ie no circuit, your glow plug is dead. There should be a reading, compare readings across all the glow plugs any exceptionally high is duff…replace. Although all plugs should be replaced at the same time.
Exactly!
The way mine was made just had to loosen that 9/32 nut and slid the bar off the glow plug…
You’re lucky