What is a Rabbet Plane
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The Rabbit plane cuts Rabbits. sounds basic but there is a lot that goes into one of these planes.
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A rabbet plane is a flying machine that exclusively transports Leporidae to and from wherever they choose to go.
I wonder if it's a bush hopper...
That's a hare brained idea.
thanks for this interesting video. i liked and subscribed. going to check out more of your videos later
Great info video! Just picked up a #78 at a Wood Guild. Had the box, depth stop and fence. In great condition for $60. Looking forward to playing with it.
Thanks James,
I recently found a 78 for $5 rusted.
Unfortunately I left it in the vinegar for four days and almost ruined it.
Should I reheat-treat the iron?
The vinegar did pit the edge, though I got an edge on it.
This video really helped me figure out how to use mine.
Oh no. Vinegar works great as long as you keep an eye on how long you have it in there. There's no need to re-harden it. Just remove the pitting.
I would like to send you a photo of a vintage rabbit plane with no identifcation as to who made it, and most interesting the blade which came with it is shapened like a knife. Please help us ID it: ... OORAH!!
There is an email address in the about tabe on the channel page and a contact me form on my website. If you want to send something.
Lucky me who got a Stanley 78 in very good condition (just the black painting at the grip is peeling off a little), but it came with all parts, even the nicker seems fairly unused. And it's fun to start working with it. So far its just playing around with some parts of scrap wood to get used to it, but who cares..
The wooden fillister plane makes me dribble ^^
NICE. yup I am often grabbing for the woodne. it is just fun!
Check ebay for tools, they've always got em
I have the Record 078 Duplex Rabbet and Filletster Plane, complete, which is there version of the Stanley 78. I love it, it's a great tool. I just got a wood rabbet plane not too long ago that I fixed up on my channel. Cut the heck out of my finger first try with it. Didn't even hurt, so I guess I got it sharp enough. It has a blood stain on it now...lol.
LOL hup sharp cuts and you don't know tell you find blood every ware. sounds like a fun time!
Wow... you are awesome. I have recently inherited many rusty tools from my grandfather (unfortunately he dies two years ago) and there was this strange plane that I didn't know for it was for. I'm sure my grandfather knew it either by the way. I have search for many sites (I'm from Mexico by the way) but I haven't found nether the name, the uses or even the accessories. There is so poor information about antique hand tools in Mexico, either in Spanish. Thanks to you I'm gonna restore it and get it to work. Thanks you a lot 😄.
Feel free to send me pictures I'd be glad to take a look at it. jameswright@woodbywright.com
@WoodByWright I have sent you an emai 😋
Is it feasible to cut dados with a rabbet plane? Say against a some sort of straight edge, or would it butcher the wood especially in crosscutting?
As long as you have a spur to slice the wood on the side of the cutter. Otherwise you can cut the fibers first with a knife.
Another fine video from the land of Wright! I like that you do demos along with the information, as this is a great help in understanding. Thank you for sharing. Mark
thanks. I try to do them when possible. it does help make it a bit clearer.
Yeah, but what's the difference between a Rabbit and a Hare?
LOL not on this channel!
I just bought a brand new Stanley 78 from my local woodworking store, but the fence is nowhere even close to being square with the plane body, like 1/4" off. Also the plane body its self is about 1/32" out of square. Do you know of any fixes for this or if it's even important? I love the old Stanley planes made in England and America but I noticed this new one is made in China and the quality has REALLY slacked off. Have you heard of anyone else with these problems or any fixes? Thanks!
Unfortunately it's very common with a new ones. They're incredibly cheap
Well that's not what I was hoping to hear but thanks for responding!😁I guess I'll try to find an old one!
Great video! Here's something funney for you... Drilling is boring.
...
If you don't get it
Think about it
nice. that is one of my favorites.
The Challenge of buying the Stanley #78 is finding a seller who hasn't figured out he can sell the fence, depth stop and the shoulder screw separately and make a killing. The best I could do was find the 78 with the fence, or with the depth stop. I chose to buy the 78 with the fence and decided to make the depth stop myself, as the depth stop was a lot easier to make. The shoulder screw for the fence and depth stop are identical and the thread was a Stanley proprietary size no longer produced. I ended up using the screw for the fence in the depth stop. The reason being there was less threads in the fence compared to the plane body. As a result, I was able to buy a shoulder screw at a big box store, one thread size different, and it adjusted itself nicely to the threads in the fence without having to be re-tapped etc. The depth stop was easier, I took a piece of 2x2 angle iron, cut it to shape, with lots of filing and cut the slot for the height adjustment screw and filed the guide ridge on the back to align in the plane body. It took several hours by hand with my cheap files and some serious buffing with compound, but it was worth the time to make one. I did a complete restore on the plane body, polished and sharpened the original high carbon steel blade and it cut's wonderfully and looks beautiful on display too. It was project definitely worth doing.
sounds like a fun time! nice work!
Picked up a Sargent #79 for $5 at a flea market in western PA. It was complete with everything but the box. The only problem I have is the round disk spur just rides across the grain and won't let the iron cut. Not sure how to sharpen it. Any tips?
You put it flat down on a sharpening stone and set it underneath the tip of your finger and rub it around on the stone. All you have to do is sharpen up that one face until it comes into true contact. Otherwise you can just take it out and not use it. You only need it when going cross grain.
@@WoodByWright Thank You
Is there a reason to buy this if you plan on getting a combination plane, besides the bullnose?
A combination plane will do the job just fine. But a dedicated plane will always do this particular task a little bit better and easier. So if you find you're going to be doing this a lot then getting a rabbiting plane is better in the long run. But a 45 or 55 can also do this.
I see that Amazon and Highland Woodworking are selling Stanley 78s as of this time. Highland is a little cheaper but shipping is extra.
Ward Masters and craftsman make the exact planes. I compared to my Stanley’s and they are the same and work great. Also,Do you realize you can use them on PVC boards as well? Are used them several times and you get great shavings want to break through that initial skin and they were great in a pinch. Great video James as usual. You have com a long way ,
yup. there are quite a few other companies that make them almost identically. I have never used PVC. but I have planed brass and aluminum.
A nice video as usual. Maybe you mentioned it but there are several manufacturers that still make them and I suspect that some of the parts for those may be interchangeable with the older planes. I would have liked to see you demonstrate a wooden rabbet without the stops or fences and talk about the skewed rabbet planes. I have seen them used in place of shoulder planes and have seen them used with clamped blocks for depth stops and fences. You can also use strips on the work for fences as you might for wood rabbet planes.
some of the new ones are interchange able with some of the older ones, but even the older ones changed through their life. Stanley even has different thread sizes that they changes as they aged.
Thanks James, this makes me feel so much better about my purchase. I recently picked up a complete Stanley 78 for $40 from a Craigslist ad. It just has a line of surface rust where the lever cap rested on the iron, I won't even need to restore it. Your quick demonstration on setting up this kind of plane is going to come in handy. Great video as always.
sweet. nice find. happy curls to you!
Your map on your site for hand tools lists a place in Tampa, FL, but clicking on it reveals that it's actually Baltimore, MD. :(
Oh that is the woodworking shows. they hold several of them around the USA. the first ins in Baltimore, but later they bring it to FL.
@@WoodByWright Oh ok. Thanks. I guess I have to wait until Jan. heh
Mr James , Q 1 , should I sure that the sole is flat if I buy one ?? I maybe have one soon ?
Q 2 , I wonder if I can joint to boards together by making 2 rabbit facing each others , ist possible ??
Q1. I have never come across that being a problem with one of these. usually if the soul is not flat it means that it was broken and you will see a weld joint or something else holding it together. Q2 sure. But it's more commonly to do a tongue and groove than a rabbited joint.
@@WoodByWright Thanks 👍
Hey there. Love the video. I have an old rabbit plane that was my dad. It did not have fence or depth stop. I bought both of them on amazon for maybe 20 bucks. Not original but let's it be used as intended. I'm not skilled enough to use my fingers, probably cut one off. Haha
nice. you would be surprised how easy it is to use your fingers. I will have to do a video on it here soon, but once you establish the first cut the rest just ride on the wall that you just made.
Thanks. This is going to be very handy as a reference. I’ve recently purchased a Stanley no.78 in great condition - with the fence and depth stop too. I had a bit of difficultly with it to begin with, but I’m slowly getting the hang of it. Having watched your video, I think I’m slowly drifting to one side and also, I don’t think my blade is in contact with the wood fully, so seeing you tap is straight, was very helpful.
Finding any video regarding the no.78 is nigh on impossible, so this is fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to share.
thanks Chris. it can be a really fun plane when set up correctly.
just a note $150.00 for 1914 approx. Stanley 78. Aud. 2021 price. cheers from Tassie
I bought an old no.79 craftsman (sargent) just to get a depth guide and a fence rod; worked good being that l already had a fence anyhoo thanks for the video and info.
Enjoyed the info James. Got me thinking what the rabbit plane I got with a bunch of others at an estate auction was. It is a Millers Falls No. 85. No fences obviously, but wish I did have them since I am very new to the hobby!
Nice. you would be surprised how easy it is to use it whit out the fence. I might have to do that video soon. once you make the first or second pass the plane just rides on the wall you just created.
Hi I recently got an old wooden fillister plane, and the iron is quite cambered, should the edge be completelt straight for the plan to work?
It sounds like someone modified it for a specific purpose. The iron should be perfectly straight across to match the sole of the plane.
@@WoodByWright thanks! I thought so, but I didn't know for sure.
I have a 78, but I never get a nice and square rabbet with it. It's very difficult to keep it upright when there's so little surface to register on. It looks like your rabbet there was also a bit off. Got any tips for keeping it square or fixing an out of square rabbet? I'd add some wood to the fence but it has no holes, maybe I'll try super glue to make a beefier fence.
it is rair that a rabbit has to be perfictly square, but most of it is just skill and practice. something I am a bit deficient at.
The reason you're not getting a 90 degree corner is a very common setup mistake. You DON'T set the blade flush with the plane body. When you set it up flush and look closely at the cut you'll see tiny steps coming down the vertical face. No amount of force or practice will correct this. Instead set the iron to extend slightly past the plane body (maybe a 32nd or so), that's why the blade is wider than the body. Make sure that you set the fence from the corner of the blade, not the plane body and you'll see that a square rabbit is accomplished quite easily.
@@michaelostrander3681 a lot of people like to have the iron stick out a bit. that works great with a fence, but if you do it without a fence that becomes very hard as the plane body can not register on the wall you made in the last past. that is why I keep the iron flush to the outside.
James, love the channel, love the video. I hate to be “that guy” but it’s Millers Falls not Miller Falls. Keep up the great work
thanks Matt
I always hate being that guy but when I am 'that guy' it is almost a relief when the person you are throwing the info to gets upset because when they are understanding I feel like an ass. You did it right because as a rule it is quiet alright to be 'that guy' just as long as you hate to be 'that guy'.
Oh, I see that I am commenting 2 years late. I hate to be 'that guy' that replies to an old comment trying to revive something after everyone else has moved on so I'm gonna jump off of here. And hey, I'm about to ride to town and pick up some things from the store. Anybody need anything while I'm out?
Love the video and answered a couple questions I had on my rabbet planes. Thanks.
P.S. with baby back ribs tasting so good, how did two pigs get off the ark? (Rhetorically speaking)
LOL nice! don't talk to a jew about eating pig.
Great vid as aways James! I had no idea what a rabbit plan was for or if I even needed one. Hey also James have you already did a video on how you made that rack for your bench plans? I now have 9 different plans and my collection is growing and need to make myself a rack such as the one you have. Thanks my friend!
thanks. yes here is the video on the plane till. th-cam.com/video/xIiLn0J_kD4/w-d-xo.html
So i just picked up a Stanley 78 from ebay for 25 bucks but the catch is that it was missing the fence and the depth stop any tips on staying in line without the fence?
50-70% of them out there are missing that. you can make one out of a block of wood and bolt it on the side or you can just use your fingersonce you have established the first couple passes it will hold itself in place.
Wood By Wright Thanks so much for the idea of making one out of wood it’ll be a fun project for My day off Happy New years!
Great video James. I saw it come up and was looking forward to sitting down to enjoy it especially since I acquired a Stanley sweetheart version a few months ago which I semi restored but have not had much of a chance to use. So this was right up the alley for me . Thanks! 👍
Sweet! sounds liek a fun time for you!
As always James, your videos are woodtastic! I have three of these planes. One is the old wooden style, somewhat like your fillister plane, only mine is fixed for width. The other two are Stanleys, 190 and 192. I have found using a wooden fencing jig works best for me. I set up some boards, screwed to my workbench as the width-stop and just slide pieces into the jig that I want a rebate on and go to town. One advantage is it's repeatable, until I remove the jigging! I recently got a hold of a Chinese made wooden plough plane with multiple blades that I'm hoping to get to use, soon.
BTW... I found these planes to be rather testing, when setting them up but, once you get it, they're loads of fun to use!
Happy woodworking! :-)
interesting idea. I like the idea out of the box!
Thanks now I know how to set up my 78. I got a 78 and 180 and restored them, i got lucky the 78 had the fence but no depth stop and the 180 had the depth stop so i can use the depth stop on the 78.
sweet. sounds like a match made in heaven!
WOW, first to comment. Nice explanations. I love my rabbet/rebate/groove-thingie planes. Did I just say 'groove-thingie'?
you win this week Ross! LOL
Could you use this one as a shoulder plane? It seems like it would work, but might be a little clumsy.
sure. you need to make sure the blade is SHARP to do the end grain but it does work for that.
Timely video James. I am waiting for my skew rabbet plane to be delivered from Lee Valley. Being left-handed, I ordered the left hand version. Have you ever noticed any serious problems using a rabbet plane 'against the grain'. LV makes a left and right hand version, but I'm hoping I only will need the one. (well, I know I can get by with just one of course, but I'm understandably curious what possible issues may arise. I'm thinking the skewed blade should eliminate some of the problems of going against the grain when those situations come up.
sweet. I have never had that issue mostly because the inside of a rabbit rarely matters. but if it does I just take a lighter cut and it is acceptable then.
Wood By Wright good to know. This will be my first rabbet plane so wasn’t sure what to expect.
Can't you just change the fence to the other side to deal with grain direction?
Just nit picking, it is Millers Falls, not Miller. I lived close to the factory (and town it was named for).
Thank you so much this video has now officially stopped me from being confused was using this plane in college recently and this video explained it better than the tutor did
hi, where do you get your strop and sharpening stones
I make my own strops and sell them here. www.woodbywright.com/shop as to the sharpening plates here is a video on those with links to the exact ones I use. th-cam.com/video/vAX3CpJxtGw/w-d-xo.html
Two knee fish? Ha ha haaaaa.a.a.a.
So, how often should a crafts-person chisel down the stop end of a stopped rabbet? Switching back and forth, or make the depth cut then plane the rabbet/rebate? (Using a bull-nose rebate plane with the front of the plane iron exposed, of course.)
I usually chisel down. And depending on the wood you can get anywhere from a 16th of an inch deep with a chisel too a quarter inch on some soft woods.
i bay one for 30 euro state good like new complet only the chisel sharpen it have some small gaps. No rust. i think a good deal.
My Stanley rabbet plane's fence wobbled. Even when tightened. I found that the single post holding the fence, flexes. I broke down and purchased a really good skewed iron rabbet plane from Veritas. This one uses two rails to hold the fence. No regrets. Rabbet joinery is one of my favorites. Plenty of gluing surface. Cutting rabbets is so relaxing. I sometimes have to clean rabbet with a shoulder plane.
right on. that is why Stanly on their later ones changed to two posts rather then just the one.
@@WoodByWright I have even found videos of people taking their original fence, drilling two holes into it and adding a larger wood fence so the plane stays stable. I tried it. Then bought my brand new rabbet plane. There is something so relaxing about planing. I cannot explain it. If the plane is set for a shallow cut, I just love the entire process of planing. You were right.
I just got a nice Record 778 and I got it sharp and set up ok- this was very helpful thanks
My problem is that I don’t have a good bench and vise with dogs etc. so keeping the workpiece still and in a position I can present the rabbet plane to is challenging. I’m mainly working on boxes so most of the pieces are small like under 10 inches long and I’m looking to use rabbet joints for these. Any suggestions on how to hold the work pieces for rabbeting?
With a steady hand you only need a planning stop to push the board into. That can just be a sacrificial board that is clamped on the other end of the board you're planning. It does take a little bit of being careful but that's the easiest way. The next step is then to put a sacrificial board in the other end and clamp it in place and then you can put a wedge in between them to clamp it down. You can also get dogs and a dog hole clamp. And that way you can just drill 3/4-in holes into your bench to clamp the board between.
Nice video 👍 A rabbet plan is a must have! I got a few of those in my workshop.
so true. a very versatile plane.
I have a Stanley 78, but any time you want to swap it for that gorgeous wooden plane at the beginning just let me know! I’d even throw in two sharpened screw bits.
A great video thanks James.
LOL I tend to use the moving filister more then any of my rabbit planes. just a lot of fun!
Wood By Wright It’s a thing of beauty in its own right.
Thanks James good video!
I built my own fillister plane this winter it really wasn't that hard, I think it is a viable option for someone with good tool skills
so true. it is a fairly simple tool to make.
Pawn shop in Williston, ND has/had 2 in goodish condition for $40 about 4 months ago. Not sure now. I couldn’t break down and buy one when they’re easy enough to make by hand.
Very true. I made my first one.
You need a washer on that depth-stop screw (Miller's Falls plane)... or perhaps a different screw with a larger head... I know, finding the right screw with the correct thread pitch can be difficult, which is why I bought a metal lathe in the first place (now I use it for all manner of things!)... nice video... THANKS!
True. The original one was a thumb screw with a large shoulder. Unfortunately this is just a temporary screw to hold the stop on. Since this video I have found an original one to put in there.
Is a Stanley 190 a good plane ?
It sure is. Stanley very rarely made poor quality planes. At least pre-World war II. After that they started to go downhill a bit but still made very good functional tools
Thanks for the video. Recently I get one of those planes, and you give me a lot of info. Saludos!
thanks you Julio!
Hello from France ! Thanks for all you good videos!! Really helpfull and full of informations.
Just had a little question, on a 78plane how did you sharpen the little cutter to have a really nice cross cut rabbet. Thanks,
Mat from France
I'm sharpened the same way as I would I chisel or other plane blade. Here is a video on how I freehand sharpen. th-cam.com/video/VxLmq6ctxWU/w-d-xo.html
I received a plane like that for Christmas. It is very satisfying to use it. Thanks for the additional information you supplied with this and all of the other videos that you have produced.
The blade on opposite side of The fence has to protrude about 1/32 to 1/64 to avoid leaving some material against the wall of the rabbet every time you run the plane. Unfortunately, some people grind or file away the protrusion of the blade thinking it should be flat with side of plane. Not necessary to force plane against wall to maintain it square. Just use enough force to keep the fence tightly snug on the edge of material.
Some people like to do that. I personally prefer it to be flat with the sign for you I get a little bit cleaner wall with that. The problem is you have to make sure it's pushed tightly up against the sidewall otherwise you start getting steps. Having the blade protrude a slight amount will stop those steps from being created. But it can also cause a rough sidewall or moving the sidewall over farther if you don't use a fence.
Thanks for sharing that
my pleasure
I apologize but I just cannot think of a snide remark for you right now
LOL I WIN!!!!
I was just given a Stanley #78 with the fence, the only problem is the person who gave it to me lost the fence arm.
Oh no!
I really like Paul Sellers' video on making a rabbet plane out of wood with a chisel for the plane iron. My question is, is it practical to use a rabbet plane on tenons? I suppose then you wouldn't need a rabbet plane and a shoulder plane. Or maybe there's already one that can do both functions?
love that video. and yes you can use eather plane for eather action. each one is slightly better at their own work, but they can do the other work too.
Great info as usual. Because of this video I now want a rabbet plane :) I do have one question and it's off topic a bit. How would you go about squaring up an iron that is skewed or just not flat? Looking for a non-bench grinder method since I don't own a bench grinder.
You just put more pressure on the side that you need to take more material off. Over the course of a couple sharpenings you can bring it back into square.
Great topic James. Must use my Stanley Rabit(or shoulder?) plane today ! Thank you very much...rr
dont have too much fun!
I bought the Craftsman model a few years ago. It’s gray in color. The only question I had when I bought it was how to sharpen the scoring blade. It seems to be a harder stell than the blade. Nice video.
those are not easy to sharpen. I know some people use vice grips and use the vice grips as the honing guide.
Nicely done -- do you smell fish? I have seen some sites that make the depth stops and fences but the problem is the screw threads used on planes are not a "common" variety and many would be makers avoid getting involved because of that... And it is costly to make such a small demand item.
LOL yup. add to that even Stanley changed their threads on the same plane through the years. it can be difficult to find the right one.
Your videos are splendid. Well explained , accurate . Thank you .
thanks! I try my best!
@@WoodByWright🌲🌳🍀🐾📐It Shows🔨🐾🍀🌳🌲.
Thanks for the video. One question though. Would it be better if your hammer was brass instead of steel to keep from damaging the plane iron?
thanks Paul. a lot of people like brass mallets but small ones like this do not have enough force to change the iron. surprisingly this is a traditional plane adjustment mallet.
Nice video ! Great plane to have in a tool chest !
thanks. so true!
Your custom weirdo is awesome, I have a 78 in box the whole deal all parts etc., Stanley, It's fkn crude, I need to fettle it bad but eh.
nice they are a lot of fun to mess with and once setup up well a joy to use.
Those old tools are gems, I have a few and use them frequently, I am missing 4 cutters for my Stanley 55 and search markets continually to complete the accessories and make it fully functional!
Nice. you should check out the sellers list on HandToolFinder.com I try to keep a list of parts sellers there that are reputable.
Do you know where I might get a frog for a 208 Stanley?
I would go down the list of hand tool sellers on HandToolFinder.com and ask a few of them.
Thanks James, I meant the 608! Can’t seem to get that right
@@henrystrickland1256 Ya I would go through the list of sellers on HandToolFinder.com and ask if they have any. most of them have bins of parts int he back. and if they dont they know who does.
Dude i got a snidey remark for ya hahaha
Nice lesson James, thanks for sharing it.
thanks Bill My pleasure
8:25 : after some research, it might be helpful to start with a small cut at the front and then working back in case of grain that is difficult/not straight. that would help with making a straight cut, preventing the blade to move when it encounters difficult grain while you establish the initial cut.
thanks for showing it can work perfectly this way as well, I had no idea.
Cheers mate
That's the way the theory goes. But in practice I have not found it to actually be a benefit. There are a bunch of different ways of doing it and it's always fun when you can find a method that fits your style. One of the things I love about woodworking is there is no right way to do it. Just the way that you find enjoyable.
@@WoodByWright very true, thank you
These planes are an absolute PAIN in the face to adjust...... you get it flush with the side, but it's not parallel to the sole...... you adjust to the sole and then it's not flush with the side anymore 😐🤦♂️ ive often spent 20mins tryin to get it where I need it to be, I could have probably done the work with a chisel in that time....... these type of plane make me want to cry sometimes 🤣😂 or even worse...... make me want to whip out one of them new-fangled router-dohickys that have a long tail 😳🤣
That sounds like you're having problems with the plane iron not being square to the side. I actually have mine at a slightly acute angle so that it's parallel with the soul but leaning in rather than sticking out on the side.
@@WoodByWright I adjust the same way as you do in the video, set it flush with the side, then adjust for parallel; any movement in either direction for parallel means the iron dont sit flush anymore...... it's a vexing tool 😂
Il check again for the iron being square, but with joinery planes I'm fairly fastidious and keep them correct...... I hope it's as simple an straightening the iron. Although it is an old WS A78 (made in England, a copy of the Woden rebate plane with the twin arm fence) and it's well worn....... even the depth adjustment seems to skew the iron when its moved 🤣
Thanks James, youre always on hand with a remedy to a problem, thank you Sir 😁🤙
IT is 'Rebate' NOT rabbit, a rabbit is an animal that hops like a kangaroo and has long ears please stop bastardising the English language
Lol depends on what side of the pod you are on. and it is spelled Rabbet over here not Rabbit.
Thanks James! I have an old Craftsman rabbet plane that was gifted to me. It's missing the spur. How essential is the spur to the plane's function?? Thank you. :)
It is only needed if you're going to do cross grain rabbits. And you can make a new one out of a hacksaw blade.
Wood By Wright thank you so much for replying so quickly! Much appreciated. I will add the hacksaw-spur to my never ending list of projects. :)
I got a Stanley 78 and the fence is not parallel to the edge, it is at a slight angle. Was this designed to be at an angle to the edge or parallel?
sounds like a manufacturing defect or someone bent it. it should be fairly close to parallel.
I think the blade needs to pertrude a bit on the cutting side. See Paul Seller's video.
there is a reason the blade is wider than the plane on these planes.
I'm surprised no one mentioned this.
That is one school of thought. This is another. Each has their pros and cons.
What is that tiny hammer I wantz
How do you go about cutting rebates where the grain of the wood goes against the action of the plane? It seems as though the plane is designed to be used with the workpiece on the right, so how would you cut a rebate on two sides of a piece (like on both sides of a board)? It seems like the grain would be going against the action at least once in that case. Can the hardware on the rabbet plane be swapped over, maybe?
I have a Stanley 78 without the depth adjustment lever. No matter how hard I tighten the lever cap, as soon as I try to take a shaving, the iron slides up the bed taking it off the wood. It's very frustrating. Any ideas on how to fix it?
it sounds like the fit between the iron and the bed is poor. try sanding the bed with something flat around 400 grit.
Thanks for the great video. I just got a Record 078 with a fence but no depth stop for $15. It's in excellent condition. Glad to know I can use it without. Also great explanation of how to set it up. Very helpful!
if you set the iron a bit proud from the side (so you are not referencing the plan from the side, only from the fence) the rebate will be more straight and clean.
That is a great debate among and to woodworkers. It all depends on whether or not you use the fence every time or if you just use your fingers sometime.
@@WoodByWright if your fingers are the fence it is still a single reference point. for me it is easier to get a vertical wall on my rebate by setting the iron this way and using the fence on my 78.
Where do I find one down the back shed love it
I have a page devoted to finding antique tools. HandToolFinder.com
What would be the best way of sharpening the spur please?
Mitch Peacock has a short video on that - basically sliding it about with a finger on top on some fine grit paper I think.
Just found it - th-cam.com/video/31DWQzJ54Rg/w-d-xo.html
I might have to do a video on that. i gust grab it in my fingers and let my knuckle or nail slide on the plate. some people use vice grips and let the vice grips slide as a honing guide.
I've seen some of the stanley/knockoffs with T channels and little bearings on screws as well.
Nice video as ever, mate. I'd quite like to pick up a 78, but I'm in no hurry as I can cut almost any rebate I need with my Record 044 plough plane. Have you used one of those? Lovely bit of kit.
nice. yes I have cut quite a few rabbets with a plow plane before I got these. works just as well.
thank you!
My pleasure.
great video thanks
Hi James, I do enjoy your tutorials, they're very informative. I've just watched your video about the rebate plane and it has left me confused! In the Paul Sellers video he said the blade should protrude slightly on which ever side you are cutting on to offer relief as you cut and to help keep it from wondering off true. In your video you say it should be flush. Who is right? Or is there 2 different schools of thought on this issue? Keep up the good work.
It is just two different methods of doing it. If if is flush it is easer to push and you get a cleaner wall especially when not using a fence. the down side is if it gets pushed in as all accidentally then it will not cut all the way to the corner. If it is sticking out a bit then you can be sure it will always be cutting if it gets accidentally pushed in a bit then now it is flush with the side wall and still cutting. the down side is the side wall is not as clean and if you are not using a fence then it is harder to control. hope that answers it.
I personally have found that if I have the blade flush on the cut side I get slightly out of true walls (especially on long cuts. If it protrudes by just a hairs breadth it cuts true the full length of the wall. Same principles as a shouting board.
Damn predictive text. Shooting board.
I've heard it said that you actually want to have the blade a hair proud of the side that goes against the side of the rabbet instead of having it flush with the side of the plane. If you don't then the face of the plane will start pushing away from the wall of the rabbet with successive cuts and you'll get a sloped edge instead of a nice square one.
that is true if you have a fence. but if you do not have a fence that can cause the body to rock on the side wall. with out a fence you keep the body referenced on the side wall. the problem with the travel is not it sticking out but that it is easy to not keep the horizontal pressure on the plane. if the iron sticks out a bit then it will scrape the side wall clean in case you go off track a bit as most beginners do. that is of as long as you are using a fence. if you do not then it will slowly scratch the side wall deeper and deeper. but there is no right or wrong way. just two different theories. like pins or tails first.
@@WoodByWright hmm that makes sense, I'm working on making a fillister plane at the moment and there's so many things to think about. Thanks for the information!
Thats a plough/plow plane not a rabbet plane ?
no a plow plane cuts a groove. it can cut a rabbet but it is not designed for that. many modern sellers confuse the two as they do not know what they have or what they do. but this is a plow plane www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjSqsD05ZXhAhWZ14MKHTRpA3IQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Ffinetools.com%2Fproducts%2Fw-l-epperson-masonic-plow-plane&psig=AOvVaw00fyZ0WtT7lqNVLQg5yFfP&ust=1553345716688924
A WS Birmingham Rebate Plane look really nice
🌲🌳🍀🐾 📐🔨🎓 Enjoyable, and thoroughly informative 🐇"rabbet" making & 🐇 plane parts breakdown & adjustment video👏. You were correct to show viewers that the first couple of cuts should be made at the opposite or finish end of the board. It's to reduce "tear out" (corner splitting) usually a problem on soft woods (for those who are asking why?) Great job🎓😉🐾🍀🌳🌲.
If it doesn't have the fence, don't pay more than 20; even then it's ... Debatable... as it basically becomes a standard angle shoulder plane with a handle (no seriously, that's exactly what it is without the fence).
Should consider setting up the blade with a shim to get a hint of protrusion. You'll get much more consistent rebates.
NO, a 'rabbit' is an animal, some call it a bunny or in America a 'hare', like the easter bunny; what you have is a ledge, onto which parts are fitted, ie window glass, pictures or art canvases, when mounted, etc. this plane only cuts this ledge square to the wall. (Ps if you pronounce this as rabbid, ie with a D, then it is a 'slang' for an animal, mainly dogs who suffer the condition called Rabies, hence it's shortening to rabbid).
LOL I like that one. I might have to use it.
Can't help being a pedant, it's MillerS Falls, not Miller.
P.Sellers if my memory serves me says. The blade on a rebate plane should stick out ever so slightly on the cutting flush side. Otherwise the plane will want to track away from the shoulder.
Some like to do it that way. others don't. there is no right way. see what you like.