4K mile oil change with filter analysis regarding Valvoline Restore and Protect. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #ad Valvoline Restore and Protect amzn.to/49q8qZY
just had a 2018 pentastar come into our shop yesterday with 347K miles on it, original everything. guy changes the oil every 3K and changes transmission fluid and filter every 40K miles. vehicle runs perfectly
I'm glad we have good guys like you doing videos on Restore and protect. I have a 2019 ecosport and I just put it in my last oil change. Engine seems to be a little smoother
Solid video. Great work at keeping that engine running well. I’m 2,000 miles into my second Valvoline R&P OCI and it too has reduced my oil consumption on my 08 Honda Accord. 350,000 miles. I’m so glad I switched to this oil. Consumption wouldn’t lessen with Pennzoil and Amsoil. I got a great result at SpeedDiagnostix on oil sample so I’m very pleased with the performance of this oil! I hope you have continued success with it as well!
This stuff works plain and simple. 2013 Honda insight. Known for oil consumption due to piston rings. I did a piston soak with Berrymans B12 and changed the oil with R&R . 1200 Miles later, zero oil consumption and the MPG went from 29 to 39.3 MPG and climbing! There was also a little rattle that I would hear on acceleration. Thats gone too.
My car 96 roadmaster used 1 1/2 quarts of super tech between oil changes now I don’t have to at add any after switching to restore and protect. So I can confirm it works for me at least. My car did sit for a long time and may have had a stuck ring I dunno… but I’m a happy customer now
Thanks for the video I’m loving seeing how this oil is working for people. Just put it in my Impala with the 3.6 LFX VVT and hope to keep it running for another 200k.
It tamed a loud lifter in my Chevy 6.0. In my (third owner) Toyota Camry (250K miles) it now exceeds 4000/ quart. Certain Toyota engines were known "sludgers" because customers believed oil change claims of 10,000 miles. From what Im hearing VRP frees up that oil control ring and people like me are reporting great results. Bravo Valvoline.
I'm running it in two of my vehicles and it seems to be doing a good job at cleaning up varnish as well. I've bore scoped both and the top ends (3.5l Toyota/7.4l Chevy) both look new again! I've got 20k on the Highlander and only about 500 on the RV. I'll keep using it even after the 4th oil change as well.
those oil control rings get clogged and the only way to fix that is to replace those rings...if this can solve that problem or atleast make it better i think this product is a win.
From what I've seen already... I totally agree with you. This oil should clean them rings. I've started the same process on my 2001 silverado that has 230k miles. So far, I'm on the first oil change... will continue to monitor.
Following closely as I am doing the same on my daughter's new-to-her 200k car. How did the oil look an the dipstick compared to prior oil at 4k? Sounds to me the oil did most of its work in the first 2k based on the oil filter. Would love to see a speediagnostics test at the next 4000. Thank you!
I just wanted to say thanks for doing this series of videos on your experiences with this oil, as I'm considering using it in my car. I have a 2019 Nissan 370Z with 65K miles that uses virtually no oil between my 3K mile oil changes with good quality synthetic oils and I was thinking of using 4 cleaning cycles of this oil as a preventive measure to keep deposits from forming. I'll follow your experience with this oil with interest.
You should Be good without running restore and protect if you are changing the oil every 3K. Maybe try running the new synthetic marvel mystery oil with every oil Change to prevent any build Up. You should be good with that combination.
Nice video and good luck with the process. I’ve heard good things about that oil. I also believe too frequent of an oil change is a shock to engine (tribology)
Thanks for the Update. Glad to see the Filter is looking clean. The Oil too during the Drain still had some translucency... Been running VRP in my 2.4L Ecotec (2014 GMC Terrain AWD) for about a Month now maybe 900 miles... Checked the Cartridge Filter at 811 miles (Fram Ultra Synthetic) and it is Dirty but not so bad that it's leaving sludge/buildup. (Oil itself is still looking clean/golden on the Dipstick) Going to check it again at 1500 or so. I'd prefer to run the Filter (as Valvoline's FAQ says I should be able to) the entire Interval (Planning for 3 months/3000 miles). But on seeing your results, maybe I should throw in a fresh filter see if it runs even cleaner/better now after the initial cleanup... Since the Oil Change I also recently changed my Spark Plugs (Factory Original after 115K miles) and Discovered Cylinder #1's Spark Plug Well was soaked in Oil (No idea how long it's been "soaking", no Codes/performance issues, or if Preventative Measures to avoid High PSI from a Clogged/Frozen PCV by using a "Vented" Oil Cap has helped stop/slow the issue or maybe it is a very recent issue?)... So I'll be monitoring to see if the Valve Cover Gasket Seal will be getting replaced soon or not... Will be interesting to see how clean the Engine is (or not) after 115K miles... Had Oil Analysis Done (waiting on Sample #3's Test Results now...) and the Engine seems Healthy (Wear is good) but because of Excess Idling and "Short Tripping" it had a problem with Oil Dilution (5.5% after 3000 miles/8 months). The previous change I took a sample early (via Dipstick/Vacuum Pump 2000 miles) and it showed improvement (1.3%). Hopefully the Analysis suggestions were OK and it is improving as I continue to change my Driving Behaviors with this vehicle (more Highway miles).
What someone else said is that around 8000 miles he noticed the oil consumption stopped. A little over halfway through his 2nd oil change. It probably best that you did the oil change as it seems it normally speeds up the cleaning after the 2nd oil change.
My concern is that as this Restore and Protect works to remove all kinds of sludge and carbon, etc..... is there danger ( even noting the more frequent filter changes)....that SMALL passages like for the variable valve timing ciruit....can these get plugged or otherwise cause concerns?
That would probably depend on the overall condition of the motor when the oil is first poured into the car. If you are starting with a clean motor that doesn't have a lot of deposits, and you might have sticky piston rings to clean up as your biggest concern, then no, you probably don't have to worry about small passageways with fine filters protecting them. But, if you have a heavily sludged up engine that looks like someone filled the valve cover gasket with chocolate cake frosting, then yes, you probably will risk plugging up some critical parts that have fine screens protecting them.
@@bladecutter1 ..and therein lies the rub. Bought the 2005 Scion xA, with (known) 155k of HIGHWAY miles...and since then have also driven mostly highway with 5k oil/filter change intervals since.....car now has 300k. Runs and feels like new but does take a touch of oil between changes.. Have no idea of prior owner's manintenance schedule and I didn't drop the pan or the valve cover to look. Been very anal with maintenace during my care however. Aside....I took this question to Valvoline website and they responded with no concern at all.....to which I answered this doesn't sound quite right as many reports ( like from data like from here and other sources etc) say that the first oil change found an extremety fouled oil filter...at least the first one. Waiting if they say anything more......
@@TheWilferch I understand your concern when you are buying a used car with 155k miles on it. If you don't have/want to use a borescope and go up the drain plug hole, and look for signs of built up crud, or pop off the valve cover to take a look at the top ends condition, I would do the following: I would probably replace the oil filter only at either the 500 mile or the 1k mile mark, top the oil level back to full, and then change the oil and filter at the 4k mile mark. Since you've nearly gotten another 150k out of your car since you bought it, I'm willing to bet its not sludged up in there, but it probably does have some stuck oil control rings on its pistons, from your description.
@@bladecutter1 ...thanks for the thoughtful reply. Yes....either do more filter changes than anticipated, like you say at 500-1000 miles, maybe even change out the oil sooner too, instead of going 3000-4000 miles. Maybe even this---> they say the oil is designed to clean at a pace that requires 4 oil changes.....to avoid cleaning too quickly which can clog things. In my case, maybe use only 1 qt of R&P for the initial fill ( with 3+ qts regular oil), and realize it may take 10-12 oil changes to get everythng clean. Basically saying using a diluted basis of doing the same thing.
@@TheWilferch That's one way to do it, and don't get me wrong, do it however you feel most comfortable. But, if it was my car, and I had used it exactly the way you described, I would go with a full oil change using the V R&P, and not mix it with anything else. I would run the oil for 4k miles, but I would switch that first oil filter at the 500 to 1000 mile mark, just for the peace of mind it provides. Then at the 4k mile mark, another full oil and filter change with the V R&P, for another 4k miles. At this point, you should have already seen some benefits. Smoother idle, lower oil consumption, whatever you are looking for. But, I wouldn't waste my time watering down the V R&P just to play it safe with a car that has given you 150k miles of great service under your care already.
It says in the fine print, full results after 6 consecutive oil changes. Most likely, for best results, you should do a piston soak with berrymans B12. That will greatly reduce your oil consumption.
Clean engine for eternal engine life! Close anyways. Dirt to burn oil and destroy engine. Prove me wrong! Lol I love syn or my own syn blend. No oil burning in any of my engines for many years. Frequent oil changes. A clogged filter will kill your engine fast in bypass mode! Green new scamm is deliberate. 0w oils and 80,000 mile oil burning 100,000 mile engine failure with 10,000 mile oil and clogged filter change. Seeing it allround me. So true!
Honestly your best bet is to check and go by the owners manual. Usually they state no longer than a year. Most importantly is filter changes correct oil level, pressure and viscosity.
Great Video!!! I have an odd question for you. Where did you get that oil drain pan from? I like how it seeps inside and would like to get one. Thank You for any info!
The only thing that for sure works is to add a half bottle of amsoil engine flush before your oil change. It will get most of the ring deposit off in 3 oil changes
For the price of what these vehicles cost, and how technically advanced they are with all the controls and the fine machinery that is in them that is the cheapest money you can spend and the best way to spend your money on these cars. I wouldn’t go over 4 to 5000 miles whatever kind of driving you’re doing it’s cheap money in the long run. IMHO
Just so you know, used oil analysis is useless. Their method of detecting wear metal is laughable. They'll also tell you that an oil you're using is good to go beyond 7/10/15k miles. This is all inaccurate and wrong information. What they do not test is the oil's film strength, which is the most important factor. If you have a machine to test used oil like I do, you'll find that even after 3,000 miles the film strength can be reduced by as much as half as when new. Used oil analysis is a total waste of money. I recommend you change oil every 3k miles or less and use high quality brands. So many people swear by used oil analysis and they have no idea they're being duped.
For the vast majority of people seeking oil testing, viscosity rating cSt will be good enough for determining whether the oil is maintaining the original scope of film strength. An oil sample at 3000 miles with fuel dilution, below spec viscosity rating (cSt) will show increased wear metals - most would infer to change the oil at this time, or maybe a bit sooner. I have no financial interest in oil testing labs, but to make blanket statements like "laughable metal wear detecting", or "wrong information", or "no idea being duped" your statement is questionable in itself.
I don't think used oil analysis is a complete waste of money. It can alert you to major problems like the consumption of coolant or super high metals. But i agree that they weight to heavy on the analysis. Your right, film strength is the most important characteristic of oil. The main goal of oil is to make sure metal doesn't touch metal. I have seen people get 500,000 miles out of these engines. Mostly highway and 5000 mile oil changes. I just put Valvoline R&P in my 2013 Town and Country and have 1500 miles on it. I have noticed that it takes less throttle input to get up and moving and gas mileage has gone up a bit. Good luck with your tests. Hope you get well past 300K. Thanks.
Obviously. The whole point of an oil test is to see if there are indicators of sludge, excessive wear and engine health. It’s nonsense to think people should tear down their engine to test it and see exactly what’s wrong with it. More people are able to just send their oil to the lab for $40 or whatever, especially if their car isn’t displaying signs of failure. So oil test do make sense.
just had a 2018 pentastar come into our shop yesterday with 347K miles on it, original everything. guy changes the oil every 3K and changes transmission fluid and filter every 40K miles. vehicle runs perfectly
That's the key
Thanks for the cut open filter, that's 10,000 times better than a "it looks darker than normal" oil comment.
I'm glad we have good guys like you doing videos on Restore and protect. I have a 2019 ecosport and I just put it in my last oil change. Engine seems to be a little smoother
Ive done 3 oil changes so far with this at 5k and now my car doesnt feel as though its about to blow up.
Solid video. Great work at keeping that engine running well. I’m 2,000 miles into my second Valvoline R&P OCI and it too has reduced my oil consumption on my 08 Honda Accord. 350,000 miles. I’m so glad I switched to this oil. Consumption wouldn’t lessen with Pennzoil and Amsoil. I got a great result at SpeedDiagnostix on oil sample so I’m very pleased with the performance of this oil! I hope you have continued success with it as well!
This stuff works plain and simple.
2013 Honda insight. Known for oil consumption due to piston rings.
I did a piston soak with Berrymans B12 and changed the oil with R&R . 1200 Miles later, zero oil consumption and the MPG went from 29 to 39.3 MPG and climbing!
There was also a little rattle that I would hear on acceleration. Thats gone too.
So does CASTROL EDGE🎉🎉❤❤AND CHEAPER BETTER
If the only benefit of V R&P is reduced oil consumption, then this product is a huge success.
This is also clean carbon from direct injection engine. And is great for turbo engines
nah it also cleans out sludge. great stuff
My car 96 roadmaster used 1 1/2 quarts of super tech between oil changes now I don’t have to at add any after switching to restore and protect. So I can confirm it works for me at least. My car did sit for a long time and may have had a stuck ring I dunno… but I’m a happy customer now
It also cleans the engine which is why it's recommended to check the filter after 500 miles.
Thanks for the video I’m loving seeing how this oil is working for people. Just put it in my Impala with the 3.6 LFX VVT and hope to keep it running for another 200k.
It tamed a loud lifter in my Chevy 6.0. In my (third owner) Toyota Camry (250K miles) it now exceeds 4000/ quart. Certain Toyota engines were known "sludgers" because customers believed oil change claims of 10,000 miles. From what Im hearing VRP frees up that oil control ring and people like me are reporting great results. Bravo Valvoline.
I'm running it in two of my vehicles and it seems to be doing a good job at cleaning up varnish as well. I've bore scoped both and the top ends (3.5l Toyota/7.4l Chevy) both look new again! I've got 20k on the Highlander and only about 500 on the RV. I'll keep using it even after the 4th oil change as well.
Switch to. CASTROL ❤❤🎉🎉🎉EDGE!!!THANK ME LATER. 🐅 🐯 🐅 🐯 🐅 🐯 🐅 🏆 🏆 🏆
those oil control rings get clogged and the only way to fix that is to replace those rings...if this can solve that problem or atleast make it better i think this product is a win.
From what I've seen already... I totally agree with you. This oil should clean them rings. I've started the same process on my 2001 silverado that has 230k miles. So far, I'm on the first oil change... will continue to monitor.
I'm at 3800 on my GDI V8 Hyundai and absolutely 0 consumption, I'm very happy, oil is dark as hell though
Following closely as I am doing the same on my daughter's new-to-her 200k car. How did the oil look an the dipstick compared to prior oil at 4k? Sounds to me the oil did most of its work in the first 2k based on the oil filter. Would love to see a speediagnostics test at the next 4000. Thank you!
I just wanted to say thanks for doing this series of videos on your experiences with this oil, as I'm considering using it in my car. I have a 2019 Nissan 370Z with 65K miles that uses virtually no oil between my 3K mile oil changes with good quality synthetic oils and I was thinking of using 4 cleaning cycles of this oil as a preventive measure to keep deposits from forming. I'll follow your experience with this oil with interest.
You should
Be good without running restore and protect if you are changing the oil every 3K.
Maybe try running the new synthetic marvel mystery oil with every oil
Change to prevent any build
Up. You should be good with that combination.
Change transmission oil also on your vehicle.
@@Regulated-Liability-Network Thanks for the info.
Nice video and good luck with the process. I’ve heard good things about that oil. I also believe too frequent of an oil change is a shock to engine (tribology)
Thanks for the Update. Glad to see the Filter is looking clean. The Oil too during the Drain still had some translucency...
Been running VRP in my 2.4L Ecotec (2014 GMC Terrain AWD) for about a Month now maybe 900 miles...
Checked the Cartridge Filter at 811 miles (Fram Ultra Synthetic) and it is Dirty but not so bad that it's leaving sludge/buildup. (Oil itself is still looking clean/golden on the Dipstick) Going to check it again at 1500 or so. I'd prefer to run the Filter (as Valvoline's FAQ says I should be able to) the entire Interval (Planning for 3 months/3000 miles).
But on seeing your results, maybe I should throw in a fresh filter see if it runs even cleaner/better now after the initial cleanup...
Since the Oil Change I also recently changed my Spark Plugs (Factory Original after 115K miles) and Discovered Cylinder #1's Spark Plug Well was soaked in Oil (No idea how long it's been "soaking", no Codes/performance issues, or if Preventative Measures to avoid High PSI from a Clogged/Frozen PCV by using a "Vented" Oil Cap has helped stop/slow the issue or maybe it is a very recent issue?)...
So I'll be monitoring to see if the Valve Cover Gasket Seal will be getting replaced soon or not... Will be interesting to see how clean the Engine is (or not) after 115K miles...
Had Oil Analysis Done (waiting on Sample #3's Test Results now...) and the Engine seems Healthy (Wear is good) but because of Excess Idling and "Short Tripping" it had a problem with Oil Dilution (5.5% after 3000 miles/8 months). The previous change I took a sample early (via Dipstick/Vacuum Pump 2000 miles) and it showed improvement (1.3%). Hopefully the Analysis suggestions were OK and it is improving as I continue to change my Driving Behaviors with this vehicle (more Highway miles).
Any updates?
What someone else said is that around 8000 miles he noticed the oil consumption stopped. A little over halfway through his 2nd oil change. It probably best that you did the oil change as it seems it normally speeds up the cleaning after the 2nd oil change.
Thanks for the update
This oil is definitely a great cleaning oil. My concern is how good doest it protect from wear.
My concern is that as this Restore and Protect works to remove all kinds of sludge and carbon, etc..... is there danger ( even noting the more frequent filter changes)....that SMALL passages like for the variable valve timing ciruit....can these get plugged or otherwise cause concerns?
That would probably depend on the overall condition of the motor when the oil is first poured into the car.
If you are starting with a clean motor that doesn't have a lot of deposits, and you might have sticky piston rings to clean up as your biggest concern, then no, you probably don't have to worry about small passageways with fine filters protecting them.
But, if you have a heavily sludged up engine that looks like someone filled the valve cover gasket with chocolate cake frosting, then yes, you probably will risk plugging up some critical parts that have fine screens protecting them.
@@bladecutter1 ..and therein lies the rub. Bought the 2005 Scion xA, with (known) 155k of HIGHWAY miles...and since then have also driven mostly highway with 5k oil/filter change intervals since.....car now has 300k. Runs and feels like new but does take a touch of oil between changes.. Have no idea of prior owner's manintenance schedule and I didn't drop the pan or the valve cover to look. Been very anal with maintenace during my care however. Aside....I took this question to Valvoline website and they responded with no concern at all.....to which I answered this doesn't sound quite right as many reports ( like from data like from here and other sources etc) say that the first oil change found an extremety fouled oil filter...at least the first one. Waiting if they say anything more......
@@TheWilferch I understand your concern when you are buying a used car with 155k miles on it.
If you don't have/want to use a borescope and go up the drain plug hole, and look for signs of built up crud, or pop off the valve cover to take a look at the top ends condition, I would do the following:
I would probably replace the oil filter only at either the 500 mile or the 1k mile mark, top the oil level back to full, and then change the oil and filter at the 4k mile mark.
Since you've nearly gotten another 150k out of your car since you bought it, I'm willing to bet its not sludged up in there, but it probably does have some stuck oil control rings on its pistons, from your description.
@@bladecutter1 ...thanks for the thoughtful reply. Yes....either do more filter changes than anticipated, like you say at 500-1000 miles, maybe even change out the oil sooner too, instead of going 3000-4000 miles. Maybe even this---> they say the oil is designed to clean at a pace that requires 4 oil changes.....to avoid cleaning too quickly which can clog things. In my case, maybe use only 1 qt of R&P for the initial fill ( with 3+ qts regular oil), and realize it may take 10-12 oil changes to get everythng clean. Basically saying using a diluted basis of doing the same thing.
@@TheWilferch That's one way to do it, and don't get me wrong, do it however you feel most comfortable.
But, if it was my car, and I had used it exactly the way you described, I would go with a full oil change using the V R&P, and not mix it with anything else. I would run the oil for 4k miles, but I would switch that first oil filter at the 500 to 1000 mile mark, just for the peace of mind it provides.
Then at the 4k mile mark, another full oil and filter change with the V R&P, for another 4k miles.
At this point, you should have already seen some benefits. Smoother idle, lower oil consumption, whatever you are looking for.
But, I wouldn't waste my time watering down the V R&P just to play it safe with a car that has given you 150k miles of great service under your care already.
Good stuff...thanks
It says in the fine print, full results after 6 consecutive oil changes. Most likely, for best results, you should do a piston soak with berrymans B12. That will greatly reduce your oil consumption.
It says 4 on the bottle
Great videos, keep posting!! I notice your hands are pretty shaky in your videos. Either nerves or health issues, please take care of yourself.
Nice radio voice!
Clean engine for eternal engine life! Close anyways. Dirt to burn oil and destroy engine. Prove me wrong! Lol I love syn or my own syn blend. No oil burning in any of my engines for many years. Frequent oil changes. A clogged filter will kill your engine fast in bypass mode! Green new scamm is deliberate. 0w oils and 80,000 mile oil burning 100,000 mile engine failure with 10,000 mile oil and clogged filter change. Seeing it allround me. So true!
Don't forget to change your pcv valve as well. Common issue on those
is it normal for the filter media to be so dry/not oily?
What were you compensated for this completely unbiased review?
NO compensation! I even bought the oil myself at the store.
@@factotumlife That's good to hear! I'm so suspicious of all these Valvoline R&P reviews.
I just changed my oil using this Valvoline restore & protect, at what mileage should I change it again? I usually change it every 5000.
Honestly your best bet is to check and go by the owners manual. Usually they state no longer than a year. Most importantly is filter changes correct oil level, pressure and viscosity.
Great Video!!! I have an odd question for you. Where did you get that oil drain pan from? I like how it seeps inside and would like to get one. Thank You for any info!
Drain pan I bought at Fleet Farm:
www.fleetfarm.com/detail/midwest-can-9-qt-oil-recovery-drain-pan/0000000036155
Local auto part shops and Walmart should have a similar combination drain pan/used oil storage jug. Ive seen them at all of them.
@@Don-xc9yj Thanks Bro!
The only thing that for sure works is to add a half bottle of amsoil engine flush before your oil change. It will get most of the ring deposit off in 3 oil changes
GUM OUT,, RISLINE,, BARS,, DOES JUST AS GOOD,, AT LESS THAN HALF THE PRICE🎉🎉
For the price of what these vehicles cost, and how technically advanced they are with all the controls and the fine machinery that is in them that is the cheapest money you can spend and the best way to spend your money on these cars. I wouldn’t go over 4 to 5000 miles whatever kind of driving you’re doing it’s cheap money in the long run.
IMHO
What are you running 5-20?
If you look at the bottle he's using it says 5W 30
@@alanpatterson17 thank u I couldn't tell.
I would never go 7500 miles, that's your problem.... 5,000 max
Has anybody had problems with a clogged catalytic converter? My car has run like crap since using this stuff..
Im curious how anyone using it would know the oil is cleaning the piston rings without taking the pistons out! Hehe mindbender ain't it?
Just so you know, used oil analysis is useless. Their method of detecting wear metal is laughable. They'll also tell you that an oil you're using is good to go beyond 7/10/15k miles. This is all inaccurate and wrong information. What they do not test is the oil's film strength, which is the most important factor. If you have a machine to test used oil like I do, you'll find that even after 3,000 miles the film strength can be reduced by as much as half as when new. Used oil analysis is a total waste of money. I recommend you change oil every 3k miles or less and use high quality brands. So many people swear by used oil analysis and they have no idea they're being duped.
For the vast majority of people seeking oil testing, viscosity rating cSt will be good enough for determining whether the oil is maintaining the original scope of film strength. An oil sample at 3000 miles with fuel dilution, below spec viscosity rating (cSt) will show increased wear metals - most would infer to change the oil at this time, or maybe a bit sooner. I have no financial interest in oil testing labs, but to make blanket statements like "laughable metal wear detecting", or "wrong information", or "no idea being duped" your statement is questionable in itself.
I don't think used oil analysis is a complete waste of money. It can alert you to major problems like the consumption of coolant or super high metals. But i agree that they weight to heavy on the analysis. Your right, film strength is the most important characteristic of oil. The main goal of oil is to make sure metal doesn't touch metal. I have seen people get 500,000 miles out of these engines. Mostly highway and 5000 mile oil changes. I just put Valvoline R&P in my 2013 Town and Country and have 1500 miles on it. I have noticed that it takes less throttle input to get up and moving and gas mileage has gone up a bit. Good luck with your tests. Hope you get well past 300K. Thanks.
It's not the oils condition it's the engines condition. Testing oil doesn't tell you how much sludge is in the engine.
Obviously. The whole point of an oil test is to see if there are indicators of sludge, excessive wear and engine health. It’s nonsense to think people should tear down their engine to test it and see exactly what’s wrong with it. More people are able to just send their oil to the lab for $40 or whatever, especially if their car isn’t displaying signs of failure. So oil test do make sense.