Thanks again. I don’t have the manual you are referring to are and only a basic one. My clutch is standard and bike is 13k so not often how often they need changing but will try to evaluate it and decide if an upgrade is needed. Hope I can manage :)
Managed to take it out but is still stuck to the top plate. Soaked it up now and will see if that helps but maybe hot gun or some freezing would help to free it. My basic maintenance learning curve continues :)
The clutch cover plate has a cap the rod goes into, this has a small seal inside it. If this is not lubricated regularly the rod spins inside the cap and can weld itself self stuck as it overheats due to lack of lubricant. It can be a bugger to get off.
This is ace need to do the clutch on my S4. The centre basket nut (186nm) do you loctite on that one? Can you use any clutch pack with a slipper clutch (obviously alloy) cheers. Great content 🤘🏼👌🏼😎
Great work mate :) I am just trying to remove the pushrod but it seems to be stuck. I can not remove it from slave cylinder side but I believe it should move freely? Should I do anything from the clutch basket side to loose it up? Also I think I have old gen slave cylinder so would you recommend a star type that you have? Cheers Tom
Hi Tom, It should move freely, one way to free it up is to remove the slave cylinder and then pull the lever in a few times, its usually dirt or rust that hold it in there. A good tug should then free it. Soak it in penetrating oil for a while to help. Personally I would use an after market slave cylinder, the stock ones are okay for road use but can suffer weak action when hot for repeated use such as track action. Plenty of good after market systems out there. :) However the later ones are okay if you want to retain a stock look.
Thanks for info much appreciate. The slave is removed by did not manage. I will try to spray some WD40 and then pull it again. I might fit a secondhand cylinder as those aftermarket seem pricey and I don’t think my bike will see any track ;)
Then the later style will be just right Tom Be careful not to bend the rod when pulling it, if you can get it out give it a good clean with some 800 wet and dry and reinstall with a dab of grease to stop it sticking again
Its really about stack heights as well as plate order but this post on the Ducati forum gives the order for a Bucci slipper clutch which will work for you www.ducati.org/forums/technical/24439-bucci-fitting-instruction-slipper-clutch-kit.html
I have used one before and it was okay for track use (I hardly ride on the road) its wear was in line with other makes of clutches at a similar price point.
Another great video. Even easy thing as dry clutch I learn so much . Thanks to your tips :) And by the way. Did you check you're go pro has the night on ? It still look a little dark sometimes. But very good realisation anyway :)
Hi Romain, glad the video was of help again :) Tried the Gopro on night settings this time but I think if I move it during the filming it takes a while to adjust to the change in light Still learning on the filming front, but hopefully a couple more lights will be on in the garage soon as well to help
You are right and that what happened but finally I managed :) by applying thermal expansion law and it worked. Would you advise how to expect the clutch and which one to buy if needed? I like yours but it is very expensive ;)
Hi Tom, It depends on the clutch type as to what to check, whether its a standard clutch or slipper and then who makes it. Some basic checks: Manual will detail the clutch pack layout and order Check the basket for wear - if heavily worn it will look like a castle wall top Check the top plate and back plate for wear Check all the hub for wear Lots of different clutches out there is you want a replacement, I don't have a favourite but STM are very good.
HI Benjamin, The convex plate should go as hte 3rd steel plate out fron back of Hub. It should be steels first and last on a standard clutch. I play aorund with the clutch pack lay out for feel so please dont copy my setting as it damages the pressure plate.
A great series.i love your easy presentation
Glad you like them Gary, thanks for watching 😊
Thanks again. I don’t have the manual you are referring to are and only a basic one. My clutch is standard and bike is 13k so not often how often they need changing but will try to evaluate it and decide if an upgrade is needed. Hope I can manage :)
Managed to take it out but is still stuck to the top plate. Soaked it up now and will see if that helps but maybe hot gun or some freezing would help to free it. My basic maintenance learning curve continues :)
The clutch cover plate has a cap the rod goes into, this has a small seal inside it. If this is not lubricated regularly the rod spins inside the cap and can weld itself self stuck as it overheats due to lack of lubricant. It can be a bugger to get off.
Hi. I see you fitted a smaller spring inside the larger spring. Is that to be able to adjust the slip action of the clutch?
HI C&N, you are correct, they have different rate springs that came with the clutch.
This is ace need to do the clutch on my S4. The centre basket nut (186nm) do you loctite on that one? Can you use any clutch pack with a slipper clutch (obviously alloy) cheers. Great content 🤘🏼👌🏼😎
Great work mate :) I am just trying to remove the pushrod but it seems to be stuck. I can not remove it from slave cylinder side but I believe it should move freely? Should I do anything from the clutch basket side to loose it up? Also I think I have old gen slave cylinder so would you recommend a star type that you have? Cheers Tom
Hi Tom,
It should move freely, one way to free it up is to remove the slave cylinder and then pull the lever in a few times, its usually dirt or rust that hold it in there. A good tug should then free it. Soak it in penetrating oil for a while to help.
Personally I would use an after market slave cylinder, the stock ones are okay for road use but can suffer weak action when hot for repeated use such as track action. Plenty of good after market systems out there. :) However the later ones are okay if you want to retain a stock look.
Thanks for info much appreciate. The slave is removed by did not manage. I will try to spray some WD40 and then pull it again.
I might fit a secondhand cylinder as those aftermarket seem pricey and I don’t think my bike will see any track ;)
Then the later style will be just right Tom
Be careful not to bend the rod when pulling it, if you can get it out give it a good clean with some 800 wet and dry and reinstall with a dab of grease to stop it sticking again
I’ve got a ducabike slip clutch the other day, can you advise me on how the basic clutch pack is made up ? I’m using CNC clutch plates . Thank you
Its really about stack heights as well as plate order but this post on the Ducati forum gives the order for a Bucci slipper clutch which will work for you
www.ducati.org/forums/technical/24439-bucci-fitting-instruction-slipper-clutch-kit.html
Have you tried the five spring Ducabike slipper clutch. If so, would recommend it for street and track days?
I have used one before and it was okay for track use (I hardly ride on the road) its wear was in line with other makes of clutches at a similar price point.
@@DesmoWerx thanks for your insight 👍
Another great video. Even easy thing as dry clutch I learn so much . Thanks to your tips :)
And by the way. Did you check you're go pro has the night on ? It still look a little dark sometimes. But very good realisation anyway :)
Hi Romain, glad the video was of help again :)
Tried the Gopro on night settings this time but I think if I move it during the filming it takes a while to adjust to the change in light
Still learning on the filming front, but hopefully a couple more lights will be on in the garage soon as well to help
You are right and that what happened but finally I managed :) by applying thermal expansion law and it worked. Would you advise how to expect the clutch and which one to buy if needed? I like yours but it is very expensive ;)
Hi Tom,
It depends on the clutch type as to what to check, whether its a standard clutch or slipper and then who makes it.
Some basic checks:
Manual will detail the clutch pack layout and order
Check the basket for wear - if heavily worn it will look like a castle wall top
Check the top plate and back plate for wear
Check all the hub for wear
Lots of different clutches out there is you want a replacement, I don't have a favourite but STM are very good.
I've been searching everywhere can you point me in the right direction in how to build my clutch stack, I cant seem to find it anywhere, great video
Hi Shane, what type/make of clutch do you have?
Ducabike 4 spring (1098)
@@shanemartinson5006 the standard stack pack should work in the Ducabike slipper. I will see if I can find a PDF pic to link too for you
Question, where do you put the 1.5mm convex steel? And you start and finish with frictions?
HI Benjamin,
The convex plate should go as hte 3rd steel plate out fron back of Hub.
It should be steels first and last on a standard clutch. I play aorund with the clutch pack lay out for feel so please dont copy my setting as it damages the pressure plate.
DesmoWerx why u put back only 4 springs instead of 6?