Just wondering, why do you switch the ground leg and not the 12+ side? Also, if you have the room, making a high loop in your vent line before putting through the floor will keep water from sloshing out while driving.
Aquor fitting is beautiful. The only time I regretted installing them was while traveling through Baja and I totally forgot that filling the inlet now meant any hose I used needed to to have the Aquor fitting on it! I ended up going back to a boring open water inlet.
The level of the coherence explanation in this video is at the highest level, amazing thank you! One thing I didn't get - does the city inlet has a one way valve? how does it work?
Your videos are great! How do you avoid over pressuring the water tank when filling from the hose? The vent looks fairly small, so seems like the water feed could be more than the vent can handle. Looking for your real world experience with it. Thanks
I'm confused by a couple things here. Why would you not put the fill at the top of the reservoir? You're basically forcing yourself to have to use a high enough pressure input source to overcome the pressure inside the tank. Whereas filling from the top is basically pouring water into a bucket While it might not matter that much I suppose, why mount the pump so much lower than the outlet? Seems like you're making the pump work a bit harder than it really needs to given it looks like there is space to mount the pump higher
I’ve had problems with the pump not pulling water from the tank. The 55psi pump has more than enough power to supply the system and overcome the height. Water fill can go either way since it’s a municipal connection. We use transfer pumps when filling from a jug, and even the smallest submersible hasn’t had any trouble.
What steps have you taken to prevent the bolt heads from wearing into the back side of the water tank? Also, I would recommend securing the wiring so it doesn't move around which will cause failure down the road. (Retired marine electrician and systems installer here.)
I did secure the electrical with some mounting zip ties after we were finished. I did not do anything to the bolts however. I think I’ll get bs k in there and block the tank away from the wall with some 1/2 inch birch cutoffs. Great idea. Thanks!
I pump the system dry and leave the fixtures open. They do well with freeze thaw, but if you wanted a system to be ready any time if winter you’d want a high pressure side drain as well.
@@AVCRIG thanks. The whole winterize thing is something I understand in theory but seems like there’s much wisdom to be found in those that have done it multiple ways and learnt hard way which is best.
@@mattnewman8103 the system we setup here just has to thaw out and it’s good to go. They can definitely get more complex based on how you plan to use it.
Can these long tanks be used vertically as well? I am converting an ambulance and that would fit perfectly in my tall narrow outside storage compartment that is on the same side as my sink and hot water heater.
Have you done a video about securing cabinets, etc so they don’t fly around in a crash or big bumps? I noticed your use a lot of bolts and fender washers on your upper and lower cabinets, wondering if you have other installation and construction tips.
I will be in our next van. (The one we did the lizard skin in). We took a pause on that build to knock out this crew conversion. We’re back on the HR now and will be focusing on more systems and layout.
I am concerned with that itty bitty strap holding a tank with 144 lbs of water in it. I can easily imagine it tearing loose in an accident or even on a bumpy turning road.
They leak a little bit. Not much, but enough for me to carry a little towel in my water kit. The Aquor RV inlet is really short so it doesn’t leak much. The frost free versions would have more leftover.
I like the floor space in the van so we put them over the wheel well. You make a good point though. S&B is coming out with some good new under mount tanks for Transit.
Great video! Like that you included the switch and pump electrical as well. Have you noticed any vibration or noise in the lines caused by using Pex directly into the pump vs a section of braided nylon? About to put together our water system in the coming weeks.
This example was for the simplest design possible. Adding complexity is encouraged based on your build and needs. That being said I’ve never had much trouble from water hammer with this pump.
This is such valuable information but it goes by kinda fast for the uninitiated. As others have mentioned, a parts list, closeups and even diagrams of the more complicated parts like the manifold would be so helpful! If I could afford to high someone like you, I'd do it in a heart beat but I'm on my own so these types of videos are invaluable, many thanks!
I know nothing about plumbing a water system but am going to need to do it soon in my van conversion. I would have liked you to explain the the water hose you were using as well as the 'crimping'. So this simple water system video isn't for beginners like me. Pity.
You’re absolutely right. I wanted to have a video that was approachable for the entry level DIYer. I’m transitioning our shop to PEX A and will be doing this on the next advanced system video coming soon.
Bad electrical wire for the pump. If the negative where to ever get grounded pass the switch. The pump will constantly run. You always break the power side with a relay and use switch to activate the relay.
Way, way too fast. Nauseatingly so. I would have added a relay for switch and fused due to water. Filling from the bottom probably works fine with pressurized systems, but just in case i wanted an alternative i would have used the top port and could fill both ways. The cabinet and entire hold down arrangement was questionable at best. That’s a pretty good amount of weight sitting on a tiny shelf with a few screws holding it. I drive way too fast and hard for that!
That was a rather very expensive and incompitant system for how combersom and complicated it is to install. You can definetly get a hot water system that's a lot more capable for a lot less than this.
The tank is over 100 dollars, and cheapest aqua fitting is almost 100 dollars at 80 dollars. I won't complain about the water pump because I believe it's a quality dependent component, I won't complain about the pex lines either, because you don't just want it to be as cheap as possible, and you don't want any leaks. Those are also components that you wouldn't want to change or take out often. You can save a lot of that money and a lot of that build process by getting a 60 gallon water bag that doesn't need a vent. Be it, it is a different type of water containment, it works differently and has different requirements depending on what you want to do with it. You may need to put it in a box that gives it more structure and controls slosh. You may not, but it frees up so much money that it might give you more options on other parts of the system such as a water heater. It may also be easier to remove the tank, and not the entire system. Removing just the tank enables use of a shore water and drain hook up without the bulk of the tank, depending on your desired configuration. Even though water sacks are imperfect in some ways, they are so cheap, I think they're with it. One apparent advantage I believe they offer that I don't think I know how to fully realize is that the less water in the them the more luggage space you have available to you without changing out anything from the water system.
@@AVCRIG Not saying it's a completely superior system. It's actually quite crude. It just stands out to me price wise, as a far more competitive set up that should be considered viable, explored, and polished. You might toss this idea to the side and laugh before giving it any effort, or fair consideration. This may not be logical, and may even be negligent in trying to finding the next better idea. That is to say that I don't find finding better ideas to be a very easy and convenient thing to do, but in the end, the van will be easy and convenient to use because of the effort I put into it. Are you being cheap, lazy, nostalgic, or trying to entertain all audiences at once, which is again, just being lazy?
not really clear on why you are switching the ground side instead of the power side. This is kind of the opposite of how I expect things to be done. For instance, something like water could create a circuit path from the switch to the chassis, which in most cases is the same as ground. This would cause the switch to turn on building pressure until it finds a path to release or the battery is depleted. Or both.
There’s no electrical connection between the electrical system and the water. There’s also no ground contact between the body and the water. We use all PEX pipe. If you wanted you can certainly switch the positive on your build if you feel it’s better.
the water tank inside the vehicle needs to be heavily strapped to the frame of the vehicle or it can be missil in case of front collision
Love this, I’m about to make my own water system. This has been the best video I’ve seen on the topic to date
That’s wonderful to hear. Thank you.
You have a great system. When will you be listing all of your items in the video?
Great job! Great teacher and he gets right to the point.
Perfect presentation!
Great tutorial! Please provide parts list! 👍
w00t w00t, the 1000th like! Great, simple, clean, and concise build/explanation for us new to this out here. Thank you!
Do you have a video with a sink, shower, and grey water tank?
Just wondering, why do you switch the ground leg and not the 12+ side?
Also, if you have the room, making a high loop in your vent line before putting through the floor will keep water from sloshing out while driving.
Aquor fitting is beautiful. The only time I regretted installing them was while traveling through Baja and I totally forgot that filling the inlet now meant any hose I used needed to to have the Aquor fitting on it! I ended up going back to a boring open water inlet.
do you have link to all these products? tank/pump etc? thanks
The level of the coherence explanation in this video is at the highest level, amazing thank you!
One thing I didn't get - does the city inlet has a one way valve? how does it work?
Great job. Any chance you'll post a parts list?
Your videos are great! How do you avoid over pressuring the water tank when filling from the hose? The vent looks fairly small, so seems like the water feed could be more than the vent can handle. Looking for your real world experience with it. Thanks
Your videos are FIRE! Much appreciated. Do you sell the little metal tabs indicating what each port is for? Water fill, etc...
Thanks man! We do plan on selling them at some point, they're not available yet however
Please let us know when you do put the labels up for sale. I’m very detail oriented and would love to buy these labels from you. Great job!
I'm confused by a couple things here.
Why would you not put the fill at the top of the reservoir? You're basically forcing yourself to have to use a high enough pressure input source to overcome the pressure inside the tank. Whereas filling from the top is basically pouring water into a bucket
While it might not matter that much I suppose, why mount the pump so much lower than the outlet? Seems like you're making the pump work a bit harder than it really needs to given it looks like there is space to mount the pump higher
I’ve had problems with the pump not pulling water from the tank. The 55psi pump has more than enough power to supply the system and overcome the height.
Water fill can go either way since it’s a municipal connection. We use transfer pumps when filling from a jug, and even the smallest submersible hasn’t had any trouble.
Any issue mixing brass and plastic fittings to that tank?
What did you do to seal the hole in the floor??
What steps have you taken to prevent the bolt heads from wearing into the back side of the water tank? Also, I would recommend securing the wiring so it doesn't move around which will cause failure down the road. (Retired marine electrician and systems installer here.)
I did secure the electrical with some mounting zip ties after we were finished. I did not do anything to the bolts however. I think I’ll get bs k in there and block the tank away from the wall with some 1/2 inch birch cutoffs. Great idea. Thanks!
Thanks! Do you have a documentation pdf on your system?
Thanks for this!
You have system drain on low pressure side of pump.
How do you drain the high pressure side if the pump has a built in check valve?
I pump the system dry and leave the fixtures open. They do well with freeze thaw, but if you wanted a system to be ready any time if winter you’d want a high pressure side drain as well.
@@AVCRIG thanks. The whole winterize thing is something I understand in theory but seems like there’s much wisdom to be found in those that have done it multiple ways and learnt hard way which is best.
@@mattnewman8103 the system we setup here just has to thaw out and it’s good to go. They can definitely get more complex based on how you plan to use it.
Whats gravity fill fitting for ? and why has a cap
does the inlet have a check valve? The aquor website says it doesn't? Do you have a link for your inlet?
Thank you! Very helpful to see your process.
Awesome! Thanks for watching
Do you have a parts list for this? Would be VERY helpful to all of us novices trying to follow along :)
Nice one, very clear,! Yes, please list those tools. Cheers
Can these long tanks be used vertically as well? I am converting an ambulance and that would fit perfectly in my tall narrow outside storage compartment that is on the same side as my sink and hot water heater.
I don’t see why not. You’d probably need to setup your own fittings. Not that big of a deal.
How would you plumb up to the pump if you had a tank on each side?
Have you done a video about securing cabinets, etc so they don’t fly around in a crash or big bumps? I noticed your use a lot of bolts and fender washers on your upper and lower cabinets, wondering if you have other installation and construction tips.
What prefilter do you use? Thanks
Matt, please provide a link to the wire connectors you used in this vid. Great job as always!
A nice install. One question, are there any baffles in the tank to stop surge when you accelerate or brake ?..
No. I don’t know of any tanks that have baffles although it’s something I thought they should have since I started building vans.
Will you be doing a video on the isotherm with the coolant loop from the Ford Factory connection?
I will be in our next van. (The one we did the lizard skin in). We took a pause on that build to knock out this crew conversion. We’re back on the HR now and will be focusing on more systems and layout.
I'll take it! Thank you.
Vent can also be overflow?
Exactly. Doubles as the overflow
I am concerned with that itty bitty strap holding a tank with 144 lbs of water in it. I can easily imagine it tearing loose in an accident or even on a bumpy turning road.
great tutorial! Dont those sweet quick connect hose leaks down when unplugged?
They leak a little bit. Not much, but enough for me to carry a little towel in my water kit. The Aquor RV inlet is really short so it doesn’t leak much. The frost free versions would have more leftover.
@@AVCRIG Ah good to know! I must of been looking for the frost free one.
Seems like tank would be a little high up from floor if frequenting dirt back-roads.
Ideally you want heavy weight on floor or under floor/van
I like the floor space in the van so we put them over the wheel well. You make a good point though. S&B is coming out with some good new under mount tanks for Transit.
Great video! Like that you included the switch and pump electrical as well. Have you noticed any vibration or noise in the lines caused by using Pex directly into the pump vs a section of braided nylon? About to put together our water system in the coming weeks.
This example was for the simplest design possible. Adding complexity is encouraged based on your build and needs. That being said I’ve never had much trouble from water hammer with this pump.
great tutorial. Subscribed!
How did you make the labels for the Aquer ports?
We have them made by a sign shop, but we will be offering them online soon. We have a laser cutter on order. 😁
Where did you get the bed bracket system on that van? It doesn't look like the one on your site.
It’s a new product we’re still working on. It’s almost ready!
This is such valuable information but it goes by kinda fast for the uninitiated. As others have mentioned, a parts list, closeups and even diagrams of the more complicated parts like the manifold would be so helpful! If I could afford to high someone like you, I'd do it in a heart beat but I'm on my own so these types of videos are invaluable, many thanks!
We have a new video coming out for advanced water. I will take this to heart and get some more media.
Is it ok that your fill line is lower than the water level?
When filling from the city it’s no problem at all. If you fill via gravity then you’d want it high.
Thanks! It’s a little fast the beginners. But a good overview.
Why is water fill at bottom of tank, going against gravity of the water to fill..
Since we’re filling from municipal water supply it doesn’t really matter. If you’re filling from gravity you would want to use the fill at the top.
@@AVCRIGcan you do a municipal water fill down low and gravity up high with no issues?
@@jamilchavez4592 totally.
Don’t understand why he has air vent tube connect back to low end of water pump, how the air would vent out?
It doesn’t. The vent (vinyl tube) just goes out the bottom of the van.
@@AVCRIG thank you for clarification 👍🇺🇸
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I know nothing about plumbing a water system but am going to need to do it soon in my van conversion. I would have liked you to explain the the water hose you were using as well as the 'crimping'. So this simple water system video isn't for beginners like me. Pity.
Great video
If you ever try pro pex A you will never crimp pex B again
You’re absolutely right. I wanted to have a video that was approachable for the entry level DIYer. I’m transitioning our shop to PEX A and will be doing this on the next advanced system video coming soon.
The DIYer can always sell the Dewalt or Milwaukee tool on marketplace when they are done with it
Love your van builds👍
😍😍😍
Bad electrical wire for the pump. If the negative where to ever get grounded pass the switch. The pump will constantly run. You always break the power side with a relay and use switch to activate the relay.
Didn't think that mattered, but felt like 12 2 is overkill for that pump. Should be fine to use 14
Way, way too fast. Nauseatingly so. I would have added a relay for switch and fused due to water. Filling from the bottom probably works fine with pressurized systems, but just in case i wanted an alternative i would have used the top port and could fill both ways. The cabinet and entire hold down arrangement was questionable at best. That’s a pretty good amount of weight sitting on a tiny shelf with a few screws holding it. I drive way too fast and hard for that!
Great suggestions.
Shift - < on Mac to make Matt speak at human speed.
Always Watch on 2x.
👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
That was a rather very expensive and incompitant system for how combersom and complicated it is to install. You can definetly get a hot water system that's a lot more capable for a lot less than this.
This was an expensive system? This is about as basic as an installed system gets. I’d love to hear about your solution.
The tank is over 100 dollars, and cheapest aqua fitting is almost 100 dollars at 80 dollars. I won't complain about the water pump because I believe it's a quality dependent component, I won't complain about the pex lines either, because you don't just want it to be as cheap as possible, and you don't want any leaks. Those are also components that you wouldn't want to change or take out often. You can save a lot of that money and a lot of that build process by getting a 60 gallon water bag that doesn't need a vent. Be it, it is a different type of water containment, it works differently and has different requirements depending on what you want to do with it. You may need to put it in a box that gives it more structure and controls slosh. You may not, but it frees up so much money that it might give you more options on other parts of the system such as a water heater. It may also be easier to remove the tank, and not the entire system. Removing just the tank enables use of a shore water and drain hook up without the bulk of the tank, depending on your desired configuration. Even though water sacks are imperfect in some ways, they are so cheap, I think they're with it. One apparent advantage I believe they offer that I don't think I know how to fully realize is that the less water in the them the more luggage space you have available to you without changing out anything from the water system.
@@AVCRIG Not saying it's a completely superior system. It's actually quite crude. It just stands out to me price wise, as a far more competitive set up that should be considered viable, explored, and polished. You might toss this idea to the side and laugh before giving it any effort, or fair consideration. This may not be logical, and may even be negligent in trying to finding the next better idea. That is to say that I don't find finding better ideas to be a very easy and convenient thing to do, but in the end, the van will be easy and convenient to use because of the effort I put into it. Are you being cheap, lazy, nostalgic, or trying to entertain all audiences at once, which is again, just being lazy?
not really clear on why you are switching the ground side instead of the power side. This is kind of the opposite of how I expect things to be done. For instance, something like water could create a circuit path from the switch to the chassis, which in most cases is the same as ground. This would cause the switch to turn on building pressure until it finds a path to release or the battery is depleted. Or both.
There’s no electrical connection between the electrical system and the water. There’s also no ground contact between the body and the water. We use all PEX pipe. If you wanted you can certainly switch the positive on your build if you feel it’s better.
Way too fast editing . Learn about 80 % of what he said
How is filling the tank from the bottom supposed to work?