My 2008 yaris I bought for $2,500 bucks 3 years has $167K miles. So far.. oil, filer, air filter, tires, battery and serpentine belt. Except for tires, all DYI because of these videos. 42 miles per gallon ⛽️
Good call on the HPFP solenoid, on GDI engines usually the backup strategy is to run the LPFP at max duty and try to run off the low pressure alone - but the injectors are sized for correct flow rate at 150-200 bar and not 10, so at best it will only idle and run at light load on the low pressure system before the injectors are max pulsewidth. Also the injector spray pattern will be horrible at such low pressure, so you get a lot of unvapourised fuel that ends up getting past the rings and into the oil. Interesting there's no short circuit code for the HPFP, I would have thought 0.5 ohms is different enough from ~5-10 ohms or something on a good one to be detected...
Dipstick Reading High , Smells Like Fuel In Crankcase > Fuel Needs To Go Somewhere When The Pump Seal Fails Good To See The Telltale Signs On The Diagnosis 👍 Stay Warm Ivan
As a former 2012 GTI owner, I'd say the issue is the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). The HPFP is a well-known high failure item on this engine along with its cam follower.
Also need to inspect cam and lifter for wear . The thrust sensor is on the fuel rail but obstructed by the intake . Can't tell you how many failed pumps I've done or failed driver modules for the low side . Definitely use only factory parts on VAG fuel systems.
Please get an oil that meets VW spec 502 00,503 00 and/or 504 00. 5W-30 or 5W-40 weight is fine but I prefer the thicker 40 weight. Castrol Edge is what the dealers use so I'd personally go with that. Then order an OEM filter and drain plug with washer. Then advise the owner to not take the car to quick lube places.
We had last year engine oil level rising due to leaking prime pump diesel into the crank case on John Deere 2154d Logger Hydraulic Excavator:) Different "animal" but the same problem! Waiting for part #2.
What would be icing on the cake, if the Scanner Tool would show expected value also for a particular test. Otherwise it takes years of experience or lots of research to know if the value is within normal operating parameters. You can have the best Scanners in the Market, but without knowing what the values mean, it is just an expensive paper weight.
Ivan no winter beard. LOL I was hoping to have an interesting one. Owner has a 2014 Chevy Captiva. 2.4L GDI. Complaint can't get out of it's own way. Routine maintenance done by dealer. Owner called back. Took it to dealer no oil in engine. Car is still at dealer. lol
Not uncommon to have failures of the high pressure fuel pump and it’s cam follower. The cam follower is known to wear out on those TSI engines. Use to keep those and the high pressure pumps in stock when I worked for VW. Once in a while a failed injector, but nowhere near as common as the HPFP.
If the customer goes for the pump make sure to replace the cam follower for the pump as well. I’ve saw a tech replace the pump, still not have enough pressure sure enough the follower was worn out. I actually saw one bad enough to destroy the camshaft.
Oil dilution is NOT GOOD. I would be concerned about internal engine damage to bearings and/or journals. Hipressure injection is a real headache. I think port injection is much better all around and no need to worry about carbon issues. 40 bar of pressure is pretty high.
@@dans_Learning_Curve EGR might be a major problem in diesels but both the gas. There isn’t all that much particulate matter in gasoline exhaust. Now diesel is a completely different story… hence the need for the DPF
Mmm, interesting video. Good video! I learned something about that fuel pressure issue. I wondered about those carboned up valves in those direct injection engines!! Well you be cleaning them up? Look forward to part 2. Hopefully a resolution to this problem.
My 1.6L GDI Hyundai needed carbon cleaning every 30K miles, so guess this car is about due for its four cleaning. They use a special injector in the MAP sensor hole to squirt in cleaning fluid, I was told. Anywho, got a dual injection (port and direct) 2.5L Hyundai now so no longer an issue.
I currently own a 2015 GMC Yukon with direct injection. I now have a PROs scanner. no problems at 80,000 miles . but I will make some data recordings now to to refer to should some problems arise on this DI engine in the future
By the looks of this VW it looks a lot like some of the ones I've dealt with lately. Yes the high pressure pump leaks just like the GM one's. But like I've mentioned before. There may be more than one problem. Looking at all that oil. The cam covers on these things leak. Which is not like a valve cover. Then the upper timing cover leaks. And the rear main seal leaks. And both will cause misfires due to acting like vacuum leaks. And also the variable cam has an o-ring on the inside of it. This will leak and make it look like the upper timing cover is leaking. And of course the carbon build it that causes misfires. I can almost guarantee that it will run after the high pressure pump is replaced. But you'll be finding new problems after.
All that oil leaking from above ruins the O-rings on the intake and water pump also. PCV valve fails and over pressurizes the crankcase and blows out the rear main. It's a real POS. Like I said before, I'd lease one but never own one with more than 50k miles on it. Why put up with this nonsense when a Honda or Toyota product will go 250k miles trouble free?
Got this 02 Tahoe with 350k miles back in the shop to replace the twice replaced transfer case module after replacing the transfer case and encoder motor with oem parts, not dorman. It was working great until the module fried again! Seems to be related to the flickering dash lights whenever the blower is turned on hi. The usual grounds were good, all the circuits are good and aren't open or shorted. Looks like there's a ground behind the engine that supplies the dash and instrument cluster. The transfer case module doesn't look fried inside so I'm hoping it's that ground. Also, the rear shocks were banging around because the shop that installed them didn't tighten the bolts down. Its a great truck otherwise.
there os a manual cable engagement kit for fwd transfer case and front axel engagement . I did my Chevy pickup and suburban. Both have 300+ k miles. Cheap easy to fix.
Finally figured it out! After closely examining the wiring diagrams and ground distribution, I discovered that the ground for the dash, hvac, transfer case module, windows, locks, etc was missing entirely and the draw from the blower motor was frying one of the mosfets in the transfer case module. Replaced the ground from battery to firewall before finding the factory ground hanging loose by the power steering pump after someone had replaced it. This was the third module that fried so I decided to fix it now that the real problem was fixed. Found a mosfet in an old circuit board with a huge heatsink and used it to replace the fried one in the -dorman- module. Plugged it in the dash, no more codes! All the buttons work. Shifts flawlessly. This bad ground caused the parts cannon to fire a used transfer case, three transfer case motors and three modules. Got rid of the dorman and card one motors in favor of a used OE motor and the system is working great. Successes like this make up for the headaches that come in. Thanks Ivan for setting such a great example of how to find the problem then fire the parts cannon! What a relief. Already replaced the body mount ground in the past which is known to cause issues, like the transfer case not shifting.
@@dans_Learning_Curve The transfer case motor gets its ground from the LF body mount bracket but the module gets its ground thru the harness that runs to the AC compressor. Found it dangling there after making one to verify the fix. Thanks for the insight!
Had a 2012 GTI with the 2.0L TSI engine w/ 6speed manual. Changed the oil / filter every 6,000 miles ...Loved that car but really overly complicated built by VW. Problem plagued. Plagued with cam follower failures and the notorious Timing Chain defect that self destructs this engine. On this vehicle, the diluted oil isn't helping along with all the carbon crusted on the intake valves. Didn't shed a tear when I traded that vehicle in on a Honda.
@@ianmoore322 Until you change the oil and need a hex allen-head socket for the drain bolt, or change the rear brakes and need Triple square sockets to get the rear caliper and disc off the car. Software is complicated. Light PWM modules are used to dim the rear lights for single filament tail lamps and they fail all the time... Mine was a MK VI. What version do you have?
@@Ram14250 MK5. This is my first car. I'm not the first owner and this car has been beaten to death but I'm going to give it a new light. So far I've replaced the clutch and timing belt. I've taken the intake manifold off to clean the valves and did the cam follower at the same time. All felt like easy jobs. It's mounted transversally and I can fit my hand all around the engine. Previous owners were fcking morons though and I replaced the seats because that's the only way I could get rid if the smell of stale cigarettes. I had to weld a bracket onto the frame for their stupid aftermarket intercooler that was just dangling on the ground. None of the boost pipes line up. It's a beater but idles like a dream and owns the street. I plan on paying someone else to fix up the bodywork because that's an art form and it needs to be perfect. I get what you are saying about the carbon encrusted valves and timing chain failures. Even though mine is a 2008 it still gets the timing belt thank god. I've heard about the early timing chains. I don't know what the alternative to this car is. New cars are no different and the only other cars I've driven are an Audi with actual complexity inside the engine bay, another Audi with awful understeer, Nissans with a lag with all the driver inputs. I've never driven a Toyota but if a Nissan is what a "normal" car feels like, no thanks.
$500 fuel pump and 2 hours of labor. I always cross my fingers my car doesn't have any more trouble than it does! :-) I had a recall with the small potential for fire from fuel pump but it was free fix from deal at that time. I'm super careful more these days than in the past about driving and car care.
I've never seen/delt with a direct injection gasoline engine. I understand that because there isn't any fuel flowing over/through the intake valves they get junk built up on them because of the EGR system. Would a catch can put into the EGR system catching the junk help with lessening the valve build up? I know catch cans have been put in line on PCV lines on non direct injection engines.
Fun stuff! I'd enjoy finding someone like you or both the Keiths to work with for mentoring purposes! This is before I drop some $$ on a decent Scan tool. I follow most of the directions of your thought process. Anyone in SW MN area willing to let a strong DIYer hang with them for a few days?
How do you dispose gasoline contaminated oil? Is it safe to burn in a waste oil heater? Bad carburetors on lawn mowers and snowblowers sometimes contaminate the oil with gasoline but with a car what do you do with 5 quarts of the stuff?
Seems like Mike Becker did one of these VW's a while back and and it turned out it needed an engine to fix the worn cam...not sure if its the same engine, though.
Even those 4 bangers cost the same for hi pressure fuel pumps ! No savings on that part vs. a V8. High pressure fuel pumps seem to all have high wear concerns. I wonder if it is the fuel filtering process.
I scrolled through the comments and wow, didn't find any "eurotrash" yet. Hey what's up with you guys? :D However the Tiguan is not much loved here either, as all the new overcomplicated cars. Nothing like the ol' good VW Golf IV or Passat IV or V with 1.9 TDI diesel. I know one that drove over 500kkm with no issues :)
@@vw5056 either Mobil 1 0w-40 (European weight) or I'd also use VW Oil from the service counter. Ran VW oil filters all the time. Car was stock, un-moded...VW ended up picking up the repair bill, but I will never buy another one again.
@@Ram14250 so long as it met 502 00,503 00, 504 00 specs it's fine although 5W-40 is the weight specified for the 2.0 in the Tiguan. Probably same for the GTI. What did you end up replacing it with?
@@vw5056 It was serviced by the dealer mostly in it's 50,000 life with me. 10,000 mile and or time intervals which is how the vehicle maintenance monitor is programed and what the dealer goes off of was way too long in that engine. Oil was black from direct injection and Turbo charging. I would do my oil changes in between at the 5K or 6K mile mark to supplement the dealer service, because I loved the car very much. All motor oil purchased met or exceeded the Volkswagen 502 00,503 00, 504 00 specs. Just a poor design (tensioner design went through 4 or 5 design changes/part number iterations) Not good. As an automotive professional, that says the part was not designed effectively. Very expensive repair when it fails and damages the top half of the engine.
If I was going to open an auto repair business, it would specialize in VW/Audi repairs and BWW engine replacements. I'd be joining the wealthy elite in no time...
I have resisted purchasing a car with GDI. I remember when Mitsubishi was bringing it back almost 20 years ago and I was stoked due to the increased HP potential. Now I look at what the consumer has to pay to maintain this system. Depending on the make you can have high pressure fuel pump issues, injector issues, and intake deposit issues. Is it worth the extra efficiency and HP? I’m still hanging on to port injection myself. I guess we will see electric vehicles overtake IC pretty quickly when the consumer has to pony up to repair these engines. Of course electric cars have their own set of issues. I have driven them but there is no soul!
@Jonathan A yes it is. Shame Toyota cars are appliances. They were always port and DI from the start. They knew what other manufacturers learned the hard way. Worked on a late model BMW today and even with a heavy foam blanket they still sound like they have collapsed lifters.
German cars don't have oil leaks, they experience "calculated seepage" lol. I was informed of that a long time ago by a german Mercedes engineer that came to the dealer because you needed an umbrella to go under this one car on the lift it leaked so much oil. He got angry when I told him it leaked more oil than a Messerschmitt lol. If you are familiar with those airplanes, you know what I am, talking about.
And i thought there might be a faulty injector that stays partly open and the fuel was pouring past the rings into the crank area. But as i said, i m not a car repairer lol.
Its an internal hi pressure pump leak , pressure is lost into the crankcase hence dilute oil and low pressure to injector, these engines fuel strategy is very lean , using the intake flap to manipulate the fuel closer to the spark , the injector needs very high psi to overcome high compression pressure
Fuel pressure specification is listed as 48.5bar. According to Google. 1bar=14.5psi. Which means that specification for fuel pressure is 703.25psi (48.5barx14.5psi/1.0bar=703.25psi). Obviously a fuel pressure specification of over 700psi cannot be correct. What am I missing?
Probably not going to hurt much after the owner has already done his share of attempts at starting. If oil was changed right away, wouldn't the high pressure pump do it duty and pump more fuel into the oil?
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yes, probably correct. I just wouldn’t mess with an engine if I knew the oil was out of range. Seems a lot of mechanics don’t even check first. Eric O seems to usually check first which I think is really smart.
Man welcome to the 80’s. Manufacturers were adding crap to meet fuel efficiency and emissions. I had a car that stalled when you put the ac on. Here we go again. Two fuel delivery systems. Poor reliability. Gas in the oil. Good job government regulators. I guess it really is time for electric vehicles
What a shame how short a lifespan many of these newer cars have, yet they are so much more expensive. It's almost as if they are designed to keep a person in perpetual debt by constantly having to buy a new car.
Owned one of these for about 6 weeks. It had 90K miles on it and the body and interior were great. The engine design is awful and it was going to take way more money and time than I was willing to put into it and traded it. I'd lease one of these but I'd never own one over 50k miles.
I bought the same scan tool recently , can not figure out how to put that camera icon on the screen for screen snap shots, is it a special feature? Thanks in advance.
Those engines are time bombs. The balance shafts tear them apart! Rebuilt one that kept tearing up fuel pump cam followers, afterwards...metal flake EVERYWHERE. They only seem to hold up for 100k miles
62 yo past mechanic 70s-90s You can teach an old dog new tricks lol 😝
My 2008 yaris I bought for $2,500 bucks 3 years has $167K miles. So far.. oil, filer, air filter, tires, battery and serpentine belt. Except for tires, all DYI because of these videos. 42 miles per gallon ⛽️
Yah those years of Toyota's are tank's I love my verso
there couldn't be a more boring car, honestly.
@@Bizija123 not everyone has a mental age of 15, people grow up and look at the big picture
Good call on the HPFP solenoid, on GDI engines usually the backup strategy is to run the LPFP at max duty and try to run off the low pressure alone - but the injectors are sized for correct flow rate at 150-200 bar and not 10, so at best it will only idle and run at light load on the low pressure system before the injectors are max pulsewidth. Also the injector spray pattern will be horrible at such low pressure, so you get a lot of unvapourised fuel that ends up getting past the rings and into the oil. Interesting there's no short circuit code for the HPFP, I would have thought 0.5 ohms is different enough from ~5-10 ohms or something on a good one to be detected...
Would the pressure even reach the injectors with a bad high pressure pump dumping fuel into the crank case?
Dipstick Reading High , Smells Like Fuel In Crankcase > Fuel Needs To Go Somewhere When The Pump Seal Fails
Good To See The Telltale Signs On The Diagnosis 👍 Stay Warm Ivan
As a former 2012 GTI owner, I'd say the issue is the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). The HPFP is a well-known high failure item on this engine along with its cam follower.
Cam followers are not an issue on this engine... neither are HPFP's. That was MK5 GTI's with the FSI.
Also need to inspect cam and lifter for wear . The thrust sensor is on the fuel rail but obstructed by the intake .
Can't tell you how many failed pumps I've done or failed driver modules for the low side .
Definitely use only factory parts on VAG fuel systems.
Good call Ivan. I've done that job myself on my son's Jetta. Amazing how much fuel was in that oil. Thanks Ivan!
Please get an oil that meets VW spec 502 00,503 00 and/or 504 00. 5W-30 or 5W-40 weight is fine but I prefer the thicker 40 weight. Castrol Edge is what the dealers use so I'd personally go with that. Then order an OEM filter and drain plug with washer. Then advise the owner to not take the car to quick lube places.
We had last year engine oil level rising due to leaking prime pump diesel into the crank case on John Deere 2154d Logger Hydraulic Excavator:) Different "animal" but the same problem! Waiting for part #2.
Nothing like some cold gas on a frosty morning. Hanging with you Ivan. Looking forward to part two. Thanks for Sharing!
What would be icing on the cake, if the Scanner Tool would show expected value also for a particular test. Otherwise it takes years of experience or lots of research to know if the value is within normal operating parameters. You can have the best Scanners in the Market, but without knowing what the values mean, it is just an expensive paper weight.
Ivan no winter beard. LOL I was hoping to have an interesting one. Owner has a 2014 Chevy Captiva. 2.4L GDI. Complaint can't get out of it's own way. Routine maintenance done by dealer. Owner called back. Took it to dealer no oil in engine. Car is still at dealer. lol
You should have viewed a TH-cam video on this problem. I believe Diagnose Dan covered this common problem.
When you remove the high pressure pump, go check the fuel pump cam follower and the cam lobe. These are prone to failure.
And when this thing runs again, check the pcv system, these fail often and the engine runs like crap.
cam follower is NOT an issue or prone to failure on the TSI engine. Only the FSI engine 2005-2008.
Not uncommon to have failures of the high pressure fuel pump and it’s cam follower. The cam follower is known to wear out on those TSI engines. Use to keep those and the high pressure pumps in stock when I worked for VW. Once in a while a failed injector, but nowhere near as common as the HPFP.
If the customer goes for the pump make sure to replace the cam follower for the pump as well. I’ve saw a tech replace the pump, still not have enough pressure sure enough the follower was worn out. I actually saw one bad enough to destroy the camshaft.
Cam follower is a FSI (BPY) issue, the TSI engines (CCTA/CBFA) have a roller setup.
If you worked for VW, you'd know the cam follower issue was only on FSI/TFSI engines from 2005-2008.
WRONG
Oil dilution is NOT GOOD. I would be concerned about internal engine damage to bearings and/or journals. Hipressure injection is a real headache. I think port injection is much better all around and no need to worry about carbon issues. 40 bar of pressure is pretty high.
If it wasn't for the EGR there shouldn't be any build up....
@@dans_Learning_Curve don't forget about the PCV gasses too
@@dans_Learning_Curve EGR might be a major problem in diesels but both the gas. There isn’t all that much particulate matter in gasoline exhaust. Now diesel is a completely different story… hence the need for the DPF
Mmm, interesting video. Good video! I learned something about that fuel pressure issue. I wondered about those carboned up valves in those direct injection engines!! Well you be cleaning them up? Look forward to part 2. Hopefully a resolution to this problem.
My 1.6L GDI Hyundai needed carbon cleaning every 30K miles, so guess this car is about due for its four cleaning. They use a special injector in the MAP sensor hole to squirt in cleaning fluid, I was told. Anywho, got a dual injection (port and direct) 2.5L Hyundai now so no longer an issue.
Just like when a Chevy small block manual fuel pump diaphragm failed. The crankcase was the fuel catcher!
Good call on the GDI high pressure pump. It leaking fuel into the crankcase is a common failure.
Interesting diagnosis Ivan! Looking forward to the next videos for the fix. Thanks for taking us along, Cheers!
A day without a PHAD video is like a day without sunshine!
🌞
I currently own a 2015 GMC Yukon with direct injection. I now have a PROs scanner. no problems at 80,000 miles . but I will make some data recordings now to to refer to should some problems arise on this DI engine in the future
here i'm under self quarantine doing phad marathon. good stuff bro
By the looks of this VW it looks a lot like some of the ones I've dealt with lately. Yes the high pressure pump leaks just like the GM one's. But like I've mentioned before. There may be more than one problem. Looking at all that oil. The cam covers on these things leak. Which is not like a valve cover. Then the upper timing cover leaks. And the rear main seal leaks. And both will cause misfires due to acting like vacuum leaks. And also the variable cam has an o-ring on the inside of it. This will leak and make it look like the upper timing cover is leaking. And of course the carbon build it that causes misfires. I can almost guarantee that it will run after the high pressure pump is replaced. But you'll be finding new problems after.
Edit**** It's the variable cam gear on the intake side that has an o-ring that seals against the spool valve that leaks.
All that oil leaking from above ruins the O-rings on the intake and water pump also. PCV valve fails and over pressurizes the crankcase and blows out the rear main. It's a real POS. Like I said before, I'd lease one but never own one with more than 50k miles on it. Why put up with this nonsense when a Honda or Toyota product will go 250k miles trouble free?
Gotta love when you can light the dip stick on fire lol. So much fuel you can’t get compression. Thanks for sharing good vid
Compression was still ok... Definitely got a good engine flush 😅
Got this 02 Tahoe with 350k miles back in the shop to replace the twice replaced transfer case module after replacing the transfer case and encoder motor with oem parts, not dorman. It was working great until the module fried again! Seems to be related to the flickering dash lights whenever the blower is turned on hi. The usual grounds were good, all the circuits are good and aren't open or shorted. Looks like there's a ground behind the engine that supplies the dash and instrument cluster. The transfer case module doesn't look fried inside so I'm hoping it's that ground. Also, the rear shocks were banging around because the shop that installed them didn't tighten the bolts down. Its a great truck otherwise.
there os a manual cable engagement kit for fwd transfer case and front axel engagement . I did my Chevy pickup and suburban. Both have 300+ k miles.
Cheap easy to fix.
Have you checked to see if the transfer case selection motor shares a ground with the heater fan? Might be worth taking a look..
Finally figured it out! After closely examining the wiring diagrams and ground distribution, I discovered that the ground for the dash, hvac, transfer case module, windows, locks, etc was missing entirely and the draw from the blower motor was frying one of the mosfets in the transfer case module. Replaced the ground from battery to firewall before finding the factory ground hanging loose by the power steering pump after someone had replaced it. This was the third module that fried so I decided to fix it now that the real problem was fixed. Found a mosfet in an old circuit board with a huge heatsink and used it to replace the fried one in the -dorman- module. Plugged it in the dash, no more codes! All the buttons work. Shifts flawlessly. This bad ground caused the parts cannon to fire a used transfer case, three transfer case motors and three modules. Got rid of the dorman and card one motors in favor of a used OE motor and the system is working great. Successes like this make up for the headaches that come in. Thanks Ivan for setting such a great example of how to find the problem then fire the parts cannon! What a relief. Already replaced the body mount ground in the past which is known to cause issues, like the transfer case not shifting.
@@dans_Learning_Curve The transfer case motor gets its ground from the LF body mount bracket but the module gets its ground thru the harness that runs to the AC compressor. Found it dangling there after making one to verify the fix. Thanks for the insight!
@@pantherplatform o converted my chevy fwd to manul
Had a 2012 GTI with the 2.0L TSI engine w/ 6speed manual. Changed the oil / filter every 6,000 miles ...Loved that car but really overly complicated built by VW. Problem plagued. Plagued with cam follower failures and the notorious Timing Chain defect that self destructs this engine. On this vehicle, the diluted oil isn't helping along with all the carbon crusted on the intake valves. Didn't shed a tear when I traded that vehicle in on a Honda.
Haha good one. These aren't complex
@@ianmoore322 Until you change the oil and need a hex allen-head socket for the drain bolt, or change the rear brakes and need Triple square sockets to get the rear caliper and disc off the car. Software is complicated. Light PWM modules are used to dim the rear lights for single filament tail lamps and they fail all the time... Mine was a MK VI. What version do you have?
@@Ram14250 MK5. This is my first car. I'm not the first owner and this car has been beaten to death but I'm going to give it a new light. So far I've replaced the clutch and timing belt. I've taken the intake manifold off to clean the valves and did the cam follower at the same time. All felt like easy jobs. It's mounted transversally and I can fit my hand all around the engine. Previous owners were fcking morons though and I replaced the seats because that's the only way I could get rid if the smell of stale cigarettes. I had to weld a bracket onto the frame for their stupid aftermarket intercooler that was just dangling on the ground. None of the boost pipes line up. It's a beater but idles like a dream and owns the street. I plan on paying someone else to fix up the bodywork because that's an art form and it needs to be perfect. I get what you are saying about the carbon encrusted valves and timing chain failures. Even though mine is a 2008 it still gets the timing belt thank god. I've heard about the early timing chains. I don't know what the alternative to this car is. New cars are no different and the only other cars I've driven are an Audi with actual complexity inside the engine bay, another Audi with awful understeer, Nissans with a lag with all the driver inputs. I've never driven a Toyota but if a Nissan is what a "normal" car feels like, no thanks.
$500 fuel pump and 2 hours of labor. I always cross my fingers my car doesn't have any more trouble than it does! :-) I had a recall with the small potential for fire from fuel pump but it was free fix from deal at that time. I'm super careful more these days than in the past about driving and car care.
I've never seen/delt with a direct injection gasoline engine. I understand that because there isn't any fuel flowing over/through the intake valves they get junk built up on them because of the EGR system.
Would a catch can put into the EGR system catching the junk help with lessening the valve build up?
I know catch cans have been put in line on PCV lines on non direct injection engines.
P130A Hide cylinder! made me LOL
Nice diag, as always laser focus
Fun stuff!
I'd enjoy finding someone like you or both the Keiths to work with for mentoring purposes! This is before I drop some $$ on a decent Scan tool.
I follow most of the directions of your thought process.
Anyone in SW MN area willing to let a strong DIYer hang with them for a few days?
Waiting for part 2.
Will be interesting to see these videos on electric cars. Not sure there will be less problems, just different ones…
How do you dispose gasoline contaminated oil? Is it safe to burn in a waste oil heater? Bad carburetors on lawn mowers and snowblowers sometimes contaminate the oil with gasoline but with a car what do you do with 5 quarts of the stuff?
Probably just as well it's not staying running with that gas thinned oil.
Seems like Mike Becker did one of these VW's a while back and and it turned out it needed an engine to fix the worn cam...not sure if its the same engine, though.
not the same engine.
Even those 4 bangers cost the same for hi pressure fuel pumps ! No savings on that part vs. a V8. High pressure fuel pumps seem to all have high wear concerns. I wonder if it is the fuel filtering process.
It's just a high-stress item...no wonder the seal gives out over time after pulsing to 2,000psi in that environment for 100k+ miles!
I scrolled through the comments and wow, didn't find any "eurotrash" yet. Hey what's up with you guys? :D However the Tiguan is not much loved here either, as all the new overcomplicated cars. Nothing like the ol' good VW Golf IV or Passat IV or V with 1.9 TDI diesel. I know one that drove over 500kkm with no issues :)
Sporting a dinosaur Golf III 1.6 AEE 8v over here. One of the easiest cars to work on ever.
Watch Humble Mechanic and VAG technic for how horrible these Tiguans are. Ticking timebombs I believe they call them.
It almost seems like there are injector O rings
blown allowing fuel to pump into the crankcase.
!
I am still confused as to how the fuel is getting into the crankcase if the fuel pump is bad. Let's see what happens in part 2.
Open injector hence the low pressure and increased oil level?
I had one new GTi in 2010 Glad I got rid of it months after I bought it. These 2.0 engines are a nightmare.
Me too. Plagued with cam follower failures and the notorious Timing Chain defect that self destructs this engine. Diluted oil isn't helping!
@@Ram14250 which oil did you run in it?
@@vw5056 either Mobil 1 0w-40 (European weight) or I'd also use VW Oil from the service counter. Ran VW oil filters all the time. Car was stock, un-moded...VW ended up picking up the repair bill, but I will never buy another one again.
@@Ram14250 so long as it met 502 00,503 00, 504 00 specs it's fine although 5W-40 is the weight specified for the 2.0 in the Tiguan. Probably same for the GTI. What did you end up replacing it with?
@@vw5056 It was serviced by the dealer mostly in it's 50,000 life with me. 10,000 mile and or time intervals which is how the vehicle maintenance monitor is programed and what the dealer goes off of was way too long in that engine. Oil was black from direct injection and Turbo charging. I would do my oil changes in between at the 5K or 6K mile mark to supplement the dealer service, because I loved the car very much. All motor oil purchased met or exceeded the Volkswagen 502 00,503 00, 504 00 specs. Just a poor design (tensioner design went through 4 or 5 design changes/part number iterations) Not good. As an automotive professional, that says the part was not designed effectively. Very expensive repair when it fails and damages the top half of the engine.
If I was going to open an auto repair business, it would specialize in VW/Audi repairs and BWW engine replacements. I'd be joining the wealthy elite in no time...
Had same problem . it was a fuel injector!!. Stuck open. Check that first.
How?
Good videos short and precise 5hanks!
with the high pressure fuel regulator solenoid being faulty it would/ could cause too high fuel pressure and dilute the engine oil.
I have resisted purchasing a car with GDI. I remember when Mitsubishi was bringing it back almost 20 years ago and I was stoked due to the increased HP potential. Now I look at what the consumer has to pay to maintain this system. Depending on the make you can have high pressure fuel pump issues, injector issues, and intake deposit issues. Is it worth the extra efficiency and HP? I’m still hanging on to port injection myself. I guess we will see electric vehicles overtake IC pretty quickly when the consumer has to pony up to repair these engines. Of course electric cars have their own set of issues. I have driven them but there is no soul!
@Jonathan A yes it is. Shame Toyota cars are appliances. They were always port and DI from the start. They knew what other manufacturers learned the hard way. Worked on a late model BMW today and even with a heavy foam blanket they still sound like they have collapsed lifters.
German cars don't have oil leaks, they experience "calculated seepage" lol. I was informed of that a long time ago by a german Mercedes engineer that came to the dealer because you needed an umbrella to go under this one car on the lift it leaked so much oil. He got angry when I told him it leaked more oil than a Messerschmitt lol. If you are familiar with those airplanes, you know what I am, talking about.
Is auto diagnostics a trade in itself or can general mechanics do this sort of thing. How do I find someone local (south Mississippi)
And i thought there might be a faulty injector that stays partly open and the fuel was pouring past the rings into the crank area.
But as i said, i m not a car repairer lol.
That's not a bad assumption. It's a common fault. You just have to follow through with the diagnosis to either prove or disprove it.
Helping stats
Holy shit that is waaaaaaaay overfilled daaaammmn
For every key order injectors too...
Leaking oil from Vacuum pump? :)
Bad PCV?
On to the video!
Edit: Ahhh, saturated with fuel from stuck open injector. Nice
Injectors are ok 😄
They don't call it G.D. injection for nothing.
Why will low fuel pressure cause a fuel-in-oil problem?
Its an internal hi pressure pump leak , pressure is lost into the crankcase hence dilute oil and low pressure to injector, these engines fuel strategy is very lean , using the intake flap to manipulate the fuel closer to the spark , the injector needs very high psi to overcome high compression pressure
@@keltecshooter OK, thanks!
I say "Oh No", Ivan says "interesting..."
Fuel pressure specification is listed as 48.5bar. According to Google. 1bar=14.5psi. Which means that specification for fuel pressure is 703.25psi (48.5barx14.5psi/1.0bar=703.25psi). Obviously a fuel pressure specification of over 700psi cannot be correct. What am I missing?
Nope that’s normal for direct injection.
Direct injection. Low pressure pump feeds high pressure pump. Completely normal 700psi.
You should wipe the dipstick then recheck it I've seen the oil walk up the dipstick many a times
Are the 1.0 TSI turbo engines any good
Not sure I’d be trying to start it with an overfilled crankcase of gas. My money is on the hp fuel pump.
especially in a HOME'S GARAGE!
Probably not going to hurt much after the owner has already done his share of attempts at starting.
If oil was changed right away, wouldn't the high pressure pump do it duty and pump more fuel into the oil?
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yes, probably correct. I just wouldn’t mess with an engine if I knew the oil was out of range. Seems a lot of mechanics don’t even check first. Eric O seems to usually check first which I think is really smart.
Awesome
117,000 miles, that is about 190,000 km. That car is far over his expected life span.
Don't be dumb.
Not even 200kkm... The car has barely left Wolfsburg
@@vw5056
Build better cars. Diesel fraud!
@@wimphilipsen2651 "better cars" compared to what?
@@vw5056
American cars or Asian whatever.
VW are real money pitts.
😂
Can anyone tell me what / Which schematic and Power , electrical drawings does Ivan use?.
Alldata
Man welcome to the 80’s. Manufacturers were adding crap to meet fuel efficiency and emissions. I had a car that stalled when you put the ac on. Here we go again. Two fuel delivery systems. Poor reliability. Gas in the oil. Good job government regulators. I guess it really is time for electric vehicles
I am so glad I only buy Toyota or lexus vehicles. If I lived in a state that snows I would buy the Toyota 4 runner 4 wheel drive .
What a shame how short a lifespan many of these newer cars have, yet they are so much more expensive. It's almost as if they are designed to keep a person in perpetual debt by constantly having to buy a new car.
Not almost. Without a doubt. Ask yourself what happened to the pushrod slant 6.
How many miles on this car and what year?
What is your expected life span for a vehicle?
Owned one of these for about 6 weeks. It had 90K miles on it and the body and interior were great. The engine design is awful and it was going to take way more money and time than I was willing to put into it and traded it. I'd lease one of these but I'd never own one over 50k miles.
Bet they never changed their oil That seems to be the number 1 cause of most of engine issues on modern vehicles
What Launch scan tool is that?
Fix it quickly and tell the owner to dump the POS, the engine is a money pit.
Puking oil is not a good symptom.
5,000 mile change interval. This customer is being scammed. TSI with full synthetic is every 20,000 miles or two years for long life service interval.
I would not go over 5k 😂
I bought the same scan tool recently , can not figure out how to put that camera icon on the screen for screen snap shots, is it a special feature?
Thanks in advance.
Just swipe down from the top and enable the snapshot feature 👍
I was cringing when you started the the car knowing the oil level was probably 5 times over the high level mark.
What's the worst that can happen? 😂
VW, from bug🐞 to slug🐌!
Start-Stall is interesting?
OR
Most Curious?
!
How come TDI engines are very reliable but any petrol VW engine it would seem there not reliable even doe Skoda are the same thing there very reliable
Крайне ломучая система. Широко известно быстрым износом и утечкой бензина в масло.
Id change the oil then do your tests
sounds like a dirty fuel filter
@1:46 6-12 months overdue for an oil change, crappy aftermarket oil filter and almost certainly wrong spec oil used. I'd start there.
It's Eurotrash....light it on fire and run! :)
Tannerite !
VW GDI? Oh. Dear. Walk away.
FARFEGNUGEN!
Please next time don't start an engine that has such a high oil level.
If I see a handwritten date on a oilfilter I’m sure there is something wrong! Not even the oilfiter is OEM.
Those Tiguans are horrid cars!
No you cant think it's good with a drip come on man .those cars are garbage send to scrapper
I'm gonna take a guess that without scan tool you can't work on anything
Put a REAL GAUGE test fuel pressure!!!!!!
Yeah go ahead hook it up to the high pressure rail to see what happens... Make sure you get video footage because it will go viral 🤣
Those engines are time bombs. The balance shafts tear them apart! Rebuilt one that kept tearing up fuel pump cam followers, afterwards...metal flake EVERYWHERE.
They only seem to hold up for 100k miles